Here in Aldershot in Hampshire (Southern UK) the tap water is shocking. I don't have a TDS tester yet, but do have a vessel of 11.7 litre size. Only used it once for the very final rinse and delighted with it. I'm too paranoid to hook it up to feed my Kranzle K10 122TS....if resin beads got into my machine, that's a very bad day!
I have this unit, and I would be careful about leaving the water to evaporate if you are using the system as a final rinse only. When you switch to it for the final rinse, I found that the water does mix in a bit with the regular water that had been flowing through the pressure washer itself, pressure washer hose, hose, etc. I did some testing and I was getting about 13 PPM, which isn't necessarily spot-free. If you use it for the entire process, I'm sure it would eliminate that variable to some degree, but I have a black car and noticed some light spotting once I let the car air dry after rinsing it off with a final rinse.
Thank you so much for the video and the parts list. I was wondering just how I was going to attach my water pressure machine to the filter. This works great!
DI Rinse already has this done for you. About 2000 or 4000 gallons of capacity before resin change depending on what model you get. Extremely pleased with mine, about $90 bucks for resin after 25 washes. More or less capacity depending on the hardness of your raw water.
back versus front and Pex by putting on backside it is under the handle but if you ever have to take the Spotless apart then you can't get the whole thing over the wheels to fix it. If the manifold was in the front then it takes up more space but if have to take apart it just unscrews and comes apart. Pex might be better joints but more expensive
@Dairyland Detailing How is this system doing for you? Do you still use this system? How often do you have to replace the cartridges? I bought the fittings you have for your setup. Still trying to decide if I want to purchase this. Also how much tape did you wrap around the threads that screws into the inlet and outlet sides of the DIC20. Hope you respond with feedback. Thanks
Did you see Great Escapes resin conversion for this CR spotless? They. basically sell you smaller tubes and resin to fill up the whole inside of the CR's blue canisters. According to them, this should get you 4,000 gallons of DI water. Thoughts?
he is claiming he can get 4000 out of 1cuft of resin, which is 3 changes of resin. That amount also depends upon the incoming PPM of water. When you break it down it looks to increase the amount of water you get from 1cuft of resin by 40% over the canister means vs. the Down Tube upgrade. Even if the increase is only 30% that is pretty good, and likely worth the cost of the upgrade tubes.
The only bad thing about this is you will have non DI water going through your hose contaminating it. Need to make sure you use the DI water before rinsing to clean out the hose in the clean side of the filters. If you just use a foam cannon on your first wetting it doesn’t use much water at all and it’s still DI and done have to make sure the shitty water is out of the hose
Question- I have a water softener installed in my home. My understanding is that it takes out the calcium and chemicals out of the water. Is that the same thing as deionizing?
You need to use the conversion kit with the CR-20: rvtransformers.com/rv-products-and-accessories/?model_number=CR20kit It will allow you to go much longer than the way it is set up from CR Spotless. You eliminate the canisters and put resin directly into the canisters with the conversion rods. It will allow you to go much longer before needing to change resin. There is a video that shows you how on the website. You are welcome.
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Here in Aldershot in Hampshire (Southern UK) the tap water is shocking. I don't have a TDS tester yet, but do have a vessel of 11.7 litre size. Only used it once for the very final rinse and delighted with it. I'm too paranoid to hook it up to feed my Kranzle K10 122TS....if resin beads got into my machine, that's a very bad day!
Nice tool box! I have the same. I bought magnetic shelves and paper towel holders from Harbor Freight for the sides!
I have this unit, and I would be careful about leaving the water to evaporate if you are using the system as a final rinse only. When you switch to it for the final rinse, I found that the water does mix in a bit with the regular water that had been flowing through the pressure washer itself, pressure washer hose, hose, etc. I did some testing and I was getting about 13 PPM, which isn't necessarily spot-free. If you use it for the entire process, I'm sure it would eliminate that variable to some degree, but I have a black car and noticed some light spotting once I let the car air dry after rinsing it off with a final rinse.
I plan on putting the stainless steel hose on the supply and outlet to keep it sealed.
Thank you so much for the video and the parts list. I was wondering just how I was going to attach my water pressure machine to the filter. This works great!
DI Rinse already has this done for you. About 2000 or 4000 gallons of capacity before resin change depending on what model you get. Extremely pleased with mine, about $90 bucks for resin after 25 washes. More or less capacity depending on the hardness of your raw water.
back versus front and Pex by putting on backside it is under the handle but if you ever have to take the Spotless apart then you can't get the whole thing over the wheels to fix it. If the manifold was in the front then it takes up more space but if have to take apart it just unscrews and comes apart. Pex might be better joints but more expensive
Would you be able to make a video making this system; cutting, gluing etc
I'd be interested to.
This is awesome. Thank you for detailing all this for everyone.
nice setup...check out great escape's dic 20 upgrade for more cost effective resin use...
Perfect need to go do this now
Great bypass solution. You should sell these.
Ryan - can you give us an update on the CR system? Are you still using the system? Is still meeting expectations? Thanks
picked up all the parts from menards today..did you happen to keep the measurements for the straight pipe cut sections?
I am curious, what TDS numbers were you starting out with?
Wouldn't a splitter at the spigot work just as well with some quick connects?
Lol yes.
My thought exactly
absolutely not... we do this setup so we can run thru this system to keep our pressure washers hooked always & switch back-and-forth instantly.
@Dairyland Detailing How is this system doing for you? Do you still use this system? How often do you have to replace the cartridges? I bought the fittings you have for your setup. Still trying to decide if I want to purchase this. Also how much tape did you wrap around the threads that screws into the inlet and outlet sides of the DIC20. Hope you respond with feedback. Thanks
Are you still using this? Also what's the price to re fill the filters or do you have to send it off and buy new?
Any reason you went with the CR spotless over say the Griots de-ionizer that already has a bypass on it?
Did you buy a certain water softener?
Do you sell set ups I would like to buy it
are you still using this system ? how do you like it?,,,what cabinets are those?...looks good
Looks a little hard to do... How does the pvc pipe between the bends and valves seal???
Did you see Great Escapes resin conversion for this CR spotless? They. basically sell you smaller tubes and resin to fill up the whole inside of the CR's blue canisters. According to them, this should get you 4,000 gallons of DI water. Thoughts?
If somebody thinks they can get 4000 gallons out of two blue canisters filled with resin (.5 cuft?), I have some moon rocks I'd like to sell them.
he is claiming he can get 4000 out of 1cuft of resin, which is 3 changes of resin. That amount also depends upon the incoming PPM of water. When you break it down it looks to increase the amount of water you get from 1cuft of resin by 40% over the canister means vs. the Down Tube upgrade. Even if the increase is only 30% that is pretty good, and likely worth the cost of the upgrade tubes.
Thank you for this, it has made my life so much easier! Curious, why didn't you run the pipes up in the front instead of back?
The only bad thing about this is you will have non DI water going through your hose contaminating it. Need to make sure you use the DI water before rinsing to clean out the hose in the clean side of the filters. If you just use a foam cannon on your first wetting it doesn’t use much water at all and it’s still DI and done have to make sure the shitty water is out of the hose
Question- I have a water softener installed in my home. My understanding is that it takes out the calcium and chemicals out of the water. Is that the same thing as deionizing?
De-ionized water removes the minerals from it. Calcium and magnesium being the biggest 2.
Can you use a water softener with the system to remove some hard stuff before the Spotless do the rest this way CR spotless has more washes?
This is awesome, I was just thinking how to do this.
You need to use the conversion kit with the CR-20: rvtransformers.com/rv-products-and-accessories/?model_number=CR20kit It will allow you to go much longer than the way it is set up from CR Spotless. You eliminate the canisters and put resin directly into the canisters with the conversion rods. It will allow you to go much longer before needing to change resin. There is a video that shows you how on the website. You are welcome.
That link is broken
Nice work!!!
Thanks for the info.
Would this set up b good in my van 4 moblie detailing using a tank ?
How do you connect it to the pressure washer ?
Great ingenuity. What thread size/type is threaded into the filters? NPT? Thanks for sharing
Where did you find that short female to female steel hose?
HunterXY comes with the system but it’s a steel washing machine hookup hose.
great system
You from Wisconsin?
Yes I am
@@DairylandDetailing where about? I'm south of Madison