Yet another comp that probably made my neighbours think to themselves "wtf? is he ok?" as I spend the last 2 hours screaming "oh.... uuuu....auuu! yeah... aaaaa!" :) the last problem was a shocker :) And I love the fact that Janja started to feel again.
@@savie591 she's always such a joy to watch. Not because she's just strong. If you compare the last two attempts - the first one - she was too far away from the wall, she was pressing with left hand in front of her = body weight outside of the volume axis - she peeled off. Last attempt - hips as close to the wall as possible. Nailed it. Compare it to other competitors who sometimes try the same move over and over and over again, hoping for it to stick that time. That's the difference. Janja is the Queen of comp bouldering. (after watching the comp like 2x this afternoon): compare Janja's last attempt to the previous failed and the attempts by Jessie Pilz - Jessie made the same mistake in the same place - palm press with her hand in front of her = hips pushed out away from the wall, fighting the forces that can't be controlled. Janja figured that out and topped, Jessie didn't.
I'm surprised by the commentators during the W2 boulder, they kept saying the climbers should get their right foot on the jib when clearly that wasn't working for the majority of them and it seemed like they weren't paying attention to the beta the climbers were using when they successfully got through that section which was to not use the jib at first.
He needs to work on his style, especially that he's no comp climber. I really enjoy Shauna Coxsey - a lot of comp experience and fast mind - not only she knows what the climbers do at any given time, what they struggle with, but also on the fly calculates all the stats. Absolute blast.
@@michelprioleau730 can't deny that - it was awesome feeling as I went into the video cold, not knowing he will be in the box. It's also nice to see him open up after being a recluse for decades - he was defo not 'a soul of a party' type of personality for sure. But again - a commentator needs to complement the event, not be a sidekick. Shauna always beats the main hosts :)
I don't get why some got the zone on the last boulder, and some others didn't. Commentators said something like: "you have to use it", but I still don't get it. Can somebody explain? What does it mean to "use it". Haha.
@@maarten541 It's a rather abstract concept, but if you want the zone you have to do more than touching it (Even in a controlled way) In fact, you need to "use it" like you said, this means you need to make movements on it to show full control For instance, if you move your feets or hips when you're touching the zone you'll get the value BUT if you touch the zone and then move your body after you released your hand you'll not get the points !
Anyone else feel like the first boulder is awful? If you made the first move it was basically a guaranteed top, you either got all the points or none of them. One coordination move for 25 points doesn't feel great to watch in my opinion, just watchin the same swing and jump 50 times, the rest doesn't matter. I could have skipped the first 27 minutes.
Love to see the next generation come so close to beating Janja, I can imagine it motivates her a lot. Also wtf was the matter with the camera angles. Such terrible directing.
wow, the 2nd and 3rd place being so young is mind blowing, this generation has some amazing athletes. also how the hell janja has less top attempts than the others but she's the only one who topped the last boulder? absolutely insane. overall amazing comp but the first three boulders weren't very exciting, especially the slab.
Спорт
Janja = GOAT, love how Ai Mori standing in the crowd watching, many thanks Savie for the full coverage 🙏🙏👏
You're welcome !!
Yeah she looks like a child cheering on her idols (although it's a world class athlete) 🤣
Thanks for uploading the complete version!!
Thank you for your service to the climbing community by uploading the full version 💓
Janja is such a great climber
Yet another comp that probably made my neighbours think to themselves "wtf? is he ok?" as I spend the last 2 hours screaming "oh.... uuuu....auuu! yeah... aaaaa!" :) the last problem was a shocker :) And I love the fact that Janja started to feel again.
@@ytfeelslikenorthkorea loved that last problem, very very hard but it gives us an amazing moment with Janja 🔥
@@savie591 she's always such a joy to watch. Not because she's just strong. If you compare the last two attempts - the first one - she was too far away from the wall, she was pressing with left hand in front of her = body weight outside of the volume axis - she peeled off. Last attempt - hips as close to the wall as possible. Nailed it. Compare it to other competitors who sometimes try the same move over and over and over again, hoping for it to stick that time. That's the difference.
Janja is the Queen of comp bouldering.
(after watching the comp like 2x this afternoon): compare Janja's last attempt to the previous failed and the attempts by Jessie Pilz - Jessie made the same mistake in the same place - palm press with her hand in front of her = hips pushed out away from the wall, fighting the forces that can't be controlled. Janja figured that out and topped, Jessie didn't.
Absolutely mental comp
The camera once again fails misserably...In the OQS it was better.
Thanks Savie for uploading the full final without cuts!
@@Snariasdqwada You're welcome !😉
When Janja is in a comp, everyone else is really just fighting for second place 😂
thank you a lot! ifsc do not shared this transmission with all regions.
Yeah pretty frustrating.. hope that helped you so
Love how Mao is all smiles always!
Thank for the video 🙏
No problem ! ✌
last boulder is crazy
Thank you for sharing those great moments !
No problem ;)
I'm surprised by the commentators during the W2 boulder, they kept saying the climbers should get their right foot on the jib when clearly that wasn't working for the majority of them and it seemed like they weren't paying attention to the beta the climbers were using when they successfully got through that section which was to not use the jib at first.
I miss alex honnold in the commentary box
He needs to work on his style, especially that he's no comp climber. I really enjoy Shauna Coxsey - a lot of comp experience and fast mind - not only she knows what the climbers do at any given time, what they struggle with, but also on the fly calculates all the stats. Absolute blast.
I didn't think he was a very good commentator, he kept talking about things other than the competition. Still he was a cool guest to have on
@@michelprioleau730 can't deny that - it was awesome feeling as I went into the video cold, not knowing he will be in the box. It's also nice to see him open up after being a recluse for decades - he was defo not 'a soul of a party' type of personality for sure. But again - a commentator needs to complement the event, not be a sidekick. Shauna always beats the main hosts :)
thanks for the vid. quick Q tho. why do you sometimes only post condensed versions. The full ones i think are better
You're welcome !
Usually I post full replay but the OQS (Shanghai and Budapest) are already available for everybody, so I condensed them :)
@@savie591 aaah i see, didnt know they were available publically
@@dinglerdangler It's badly done tbh, a lot of people didn't know
Amazing replay thanks my g
You're welcome
another level janja
Who is the female commentator?
Edit: figured it out, it's Nika Potapova
Thank you for the upload!
Thank's for the name, and no problem ✌🏻
thanks a bunch for the uncut version. ifsc sucks (((...
Where was originally streamed
On the IFSC youtube channel ! But there are geographical restriction, especially if you live somewhere in Europe or N.A
I don't get why some got the zone on the last boulder, and some others didn't. Commentators said something like: "you have to use it", but I still don't get it. Can somebody explain? What does it mean to "use it". Haha.
@@maarten541 It's a rather abstract concept, but if you want the zone you have to do more than touching it (Even in a controlled way)
In fact, you need to "use it" like you said, this means you need to make movements on it to show full control
For instance, if you move your feets or hips when you're touching the zone you'll get the value BUT if you touch the zone and then move your body after you released your hand you'll not get the points !
To much zooming!
why is the camera work so bad? Just show us their body and the next hold. it is not hard.
Anyone else feel like the first boulder is awful? If you made the first move it was basically a guaranteed top, you either got all the points or none of them. One coordination move for 25 points doesn't feel great to watch in my opinion, just watchin the same swing and jump 50 times, the rest doesn't matter. I could have skipped the first 27 minutes.
There is no 25 points in this competition's format.
It is a very complex move, you have to get every part right.
I swear, if I hear the word "bobble" one more time...
😂
This is the absolute worst I’ve ever seen the cameras. Stop changing to a different camera every 2 seconds…
Love to see the next generation come so close to beating Janja, I can imagine it motivates her a lot.
Also wtf was the matter with the camera angles. Such terrible directing.
where is Oriane?!
She did not qualify for the finals
One spot off
Worst camarajob in the history of sport...
This Austrian Pseudo Rave Music Vibe and the Arena Kommentator are horrible. I would struggle with focusing as a climber.
Jokes on you, this event is actually very popular among the athletes because of the extraordinary atmosphere
camera man is just a man, don't understand bouldering at all. unnecessary zoom-in, lost many real beauty parts of climbing.
Any Director?
wow, the 2nd and 3rd place being so young is mind blowing, this generation has some amazing athletes.
also how the hell janja has less top attempts than the others but she's the only one who topped the last boulder? absolutely insane.
overall amazing comp but the first three boulders weren't very exciting, especially the slab.