Thanks for posting this. I am gradually learning how to improve my own Chinese made mini lathe. Although I’m really pleased with it, it does need these small improvements, mainly to stop “chatter” of the cut and to make the adjustments easier. I think this mod will actually support the gibs better, even when it’s not locked.
Did this mod on my Clarke cl300m yesterday 09/11/19, which is the same as the Chinese mini lathe, just in canary yellow finish. I have not tested it yet as I run out of time. Will be testing its rigidity on the 11/11/19. I was having problems with the rigidity of the cross slide on my mini lathe. So hopefully this will cure the problem. Thank you Mr Jordan. Great videos, very informative and helpful. Jason
My lathe is identical to what you showed in the video. I wanted to do something like that, but I was afraid to change it. After watching your video, I feel more confident in doing so. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the very informative video's on the Chinese Mini Lathe which I have watched all. Excellent. Would it be any advantage to use ball bearings in the gib adjusting screws as well as the locking bolts?
Whenever possible slides should be locked if your not using them. You see that recommendation mentioned when using a milling machine all the time. I've always thought the same was true for lathes as well. So a good improvement Steve. Fwiw George Thomas in his book The Model Engineers Workshop Manual went into a fair amount of detail about gibs and gib screw adjustment. He logically pointed out why most home shop lathes were designed incorrectly in the area where the gib screws bear against the gib strip. Most are simply drilled so the drill point just starts into the gib strip so that the pointed gib screws will hold the gib from moving. Unfortunately that doesn't quite work so well in practice. The few thousandths required for clearance to allow the slide to move also allows the gib to move a fraction. That in turn tends to wedge the gib strip up onto the tapered sides of the screw tips and tightening the carefully set adjustments. His redesign involved drilling right through the gib strip and then making new screws with a short parallel turned section on the end of the gib screw. That way the gib is held in place with no wedging action as the slide is moved. It does work far better and I think the gib can be adjusted just a bit tighter without adding any more friction.
Thanks for the info. Very interesting. I never knew that was a recommendation for a milling machine. I keep mine locked all the time now and only unlock when I need to use the compound. It is much easier to get dead accurate machining and good finishes.
Glad you found that useful Steve. There has to be at least a few thou clearance on the slides or they'd be impossible to move. On our lighter duty machines that can show up in the surface finishes just like you've found. Even more so on the top slide since there's that stack up of all the small clearances needed from the carriage, cross slide and the top combined. Very large commercial lathes not only have all that mass that helps to resist the cutting forces but there generally built with tighter clearances at least when there new. It's pretty easy to measure the clearance on a mill's slides since the X and Y axis are at 90 degrees to each other. Mine was built in Taiwan and even when brand new with the gibs properly adjusted there was still right around .003"- .004" clearance. That will show up in the cutting surface unless you lock the slide your not using. I think you might find you get a bit better tool life as well by locking your slides as much as possible. Especially with any carbide your using. It needs all the rigidity you can come up with for the best tool life.
Steve once again, thank you for that simple but great idea, added to my must do list. incidentally I was looking at the gib screws fitted to my lathe only this morning, currently cap heads, I'll be changing them all to grub screws as in some positions they foul other components.
Hi David, Thanks. I think this modification totally transforms the lathe. I leave my locking screw lightly tightened all the time, unless i use the compound slide. I found the accuracy and finishes improves a great deal on all turning and boring operations as well as milling etc.
Hi Steve, I am an avid follower of your upgrades, have made several already. This has to be the best, reduces chatter if the gib scews are slightly slack from repetion and improves the cutting finish enormously. Logically the crosslide has to be done also, a little time consuming to set a cut, but very worthwhile. Once again many thanks for your time and knowledge in uploading these tips etc. Best wishes Mike.
Hi Mike, Thanks. Yes I found this one very worthwhile. I haven't done the cross-slide yet. Its a good idea though, because I see they have factory fitted locking screws on the later Myford cross-slides. I will get around to doing my Mini Lathe sometime. Regards Steve
The Myford is a great machine. I was fortunate as my brother gave it to me. I still love the Mini Lathe though and have made hundreds of nice components using it. I have just made some wick feed oilers for the Myford lathe on the Mini Lathe. I hope to show how I make them soon and the turning tools used. I was going to start the video this evening, but its freezing cold weather and I have no heat in the shed! Some people talk as if the Mini Lathe is no good, but I wouldn't be without mine. It is so quick to use. I have learned so much using it and doing the upgrades! Regards Steve
I agree completely, I thourghly enjoy my mini lathe Sieg Sc2, I also have a Sieg xs1 mini mill. Need to be careful and patient when machining but the results to be fair are very satisfying. Lots of info and books available, for me a wonderful hobby and pleasure.
If you do this mod on the crosslide and lock it down, then the compound needs to move to make the cuts,...I'm thinking that it's better to keep the compound locked down because it's the smallest/lightest component?? I'm not happy with the crosslide either but you have to be able to advance the cutting tool in some way,.. I always try to lock the carriage down too.
Hi Steve, thanks for all your very informative videos. Do you have a link for the Saddle Backplate Upgrade video? I remember watching it years ago but cannot find it now and thought I would take the opportunity whilst I have my machine disassembled.
Hi Steve great info. I'm going to do this too. Can I ask is your tailstock the one that came with the lathe? It looks much better than the tailstock on mine (wider base and more solid looking) if not could you tell me where you bought it?
That looks like a good idea, but maybe a little inconvenient to fool with a screwdriver. Is there room in that area to use mini mill locking levers instead of screws?
Thank's Steve. Just a shame that was your last update on the Chinese Mini Lathe as I enjoyed them immensely even though I have a Warco Super Mini most are still totally relevant and excellent.
Hallo, Jordan, i went on a similar modification on my chinese lathe ( this marked Einhell MTB 3000, but very similar to your lathe . . . ) ; i added 2 more adjustable stainless-steel screws, with fixed nuts, not brass-adjustable as you made ( that now i see it should be a better solution ). In any case, too much often i have to readjust the screws . . . i fear the problem is not wearing of the compound-slide, but instead the compound-slide itself, too much weak, it is too much thin on both sides, and i suppose it tends to "open" . . . what do you think about it ? And what to do then ? I haven't a milling tool ( nor the experience . . . ) otherwise i'll gone on the construction of a more strong compound-slide . . . Instead, the crossing-slide is ok, lathing-work pushes it down on it's supports ; on the contrary the compound-slide often works a bit away from supports . . . and so it tends to lift on its back . . . Cheers, Alessandro from Italy.
Thank You Steve. Nice addition and like the ball bearings. Since I got my peanut the gibs have been the biggest source of frustration. I changed my screws to stainless a long while back and they do make a difference, but I got dog points instead of cones. Found a tiny end mil (PCB drill) and flattened and deepened the holes on the gib to match the dog points depth minus a skosh. Below someone suggested a through drill¿, but mine are about 60% better now. The issue you brought up about going to brass and being sensitive is definitely a fiddly problem, especially trying to get the backlash to a minimum and still have a smooth running fit. To me the steel or what ever they are made from (old beer cans) is the real problem...two weeks after lapping they are not flat again. Do you have any recommendations for type of metal to make some from? I was thinking something like 1080 or 1144 stress proof or maybe even unhardened O1? Thanks for all your time and tips with these great videos!! ~PJ
Hi PJ thanks, that is very interesting about the flattening the holes etc. I think I would use O1 if I was making them. The Chinese lathes seem to vary a bit. Mine seems to be very good on the compound gib now. Think it has run in a bit. My tail-stock was really bad though. I had to re adjust the cam and re drill the screw indents in the correct position. I bought my Chinese lathe about five years ago. I have heard that they have improved a lot now. One thing I cannot understand is why they are still selling them with those plastic gears in the head-stock, when there are the metal ones available. There must be loads of of them out there with stripped gears! Regards Steve
Thanks Steve, I was leaning that way. The old cone points seem to create burs and don't push perpendicular very well, imho. Also the thread quality seems to be
Thank you for the video . I want to do it myself - TAP AND REAMER HOLDER. Will you have a video on this topic? I'm interested in dimensions, drawing with dimensions of parts. Can your channel help? Thanks.
Hi Thanks but I do not work by any drawings or particular dimensions. I just make thing to fit together as I machine them. I gave up using drawings many years ago, as these make dimensions specific and slow up making components considerably. You just need the taps, reamers and dies and can make the holder to suit their dimensions. The rest is just what you choose to suit its particular use on the lathe, like how I use my die holder. Its so much easier and practical than using specific dimensions... Regards Steve
Hi, I did this upgrade some years back when I first started engineering. I didn't have ball bearings at the time so I just used allen bolts. What is the purpose of the ball bearing? Would the addition of a spring be helpful? I'm having significant problems with rigidity in the compound. I've lapped the gib to no avail and even changed the top part where the tool post bolts on. My compound rocks slightly and will cause a carbide index to break when parting off unless the compound is tightly locked down. Thanks for your thoughts.
Hi Jeffery. The compound slide on the Mini Lathe is a weak point on the lathe. I never actually part off anything unless it is thin walled or a shallow cut. That is why I went over to making a compound block rather than using the slide. Before making that one I used to hacksaw most things off to save the trouble.
I just did a variation of this modification. Thanks for the idea. My changes were to make screws that could be tightened by hand instead of needing a screwdriver or other tool. I made the screws out of aluminum instead of brass as that was the stock I had on hand. Some pics at www.snafu.org/other/2017-new-lathe/0502/
Steve Jordan Hi Steve. New to mini lathes and learning lots.....mainly from you. Was looking at the modification on the compound slide. I've attempted to cut some tapers at various angles on my Clarke CL300M...but I notice that when I cut the tools doesn't cut true as there is play in the compound as it enters the work. Will this modification eliminate that so that I can cut accurate tapers?. Thanks Steve.
Hi David, no these are for locking the compound so it cannot move at all. Its the existing grub screws on the side of the compound slide that you need to adjust to take out excess movement. You just undo the locknuts and use an allen key to tighten the gib. Its a fine adjustment that needs to take out side movement, but not so tight that the compound slide is too hard to wind. Also you will find it is critical to have the right type of turning tool set dead on centre height and wind the compound back first so that it isn't too far forward, having too much overhang from the base of the slide....so it has maximum support of the length of the gib strip assembly. One thing worth mentioning as well. I had a brass gib strip in mine for some time. These are no good on the compound and do not give the correct support or smooth movement. It works best with the original steel gib strip that comes with the lathe. You can buy these steel ones from Amadeal......Regards Steve
Hello Steve. For a beginner like me there are (at least) two things that are not obvious to me (1) must the adjustment screws be on the gib side and not on the other where they will be more ot ot the way (2) are the steel balls supposed to spinn and if so how do you prevent them from falling out. Regards/Ingvar
Yes, the adjustment screws must be on the gib side because they push the ball bearings against the gib to tighten the gibs against the slide to "stop" it via friction. Essentially, they are "extra" gib screws. You could technically lock the compound slide without doing this mod by using the original/existing gib screws. But the problem with doing that is that you would then have to readjust your original/existing gib screws again when you are done so that the compound slide can move freely again. This modification allows you to use the "new/extra" brass gib screws to temporarily lock the slide without touching the original/existing gib screws. Hope that makes sense. The ball bearings should move freely in the hole. But they will not fall out because they are held in the hole on one side by the screw and on the other side by the gib strip.
Hi I have since taken the ball out and have ordinary set screws for locking directly onto the gib. A spring plunger wouldn't lock the slide. Regards Steve
Steve, Thanks again for passing your knowledge on to others. Would it be possible to do a vid on your metal scribing tool? I've seen others on RUclips and Ebay (including the Starrett 29b), but none of them seem to be as functional as yours. Regards, Kevin
Thanks, I didn't think the grub screws that came in the lathe were very good quality. Whenever I change screws I usually replace them with stainless as they are less prone to corrosion and seem to be better on the allen sockets.
Yes it's whatever you prefer. I rarely use the compound on mine so I have made a difference fixed tool post. The compound slide on the Chinese mini lathe is a very poor design although one can get by using it with some modifications.
@@SteveJordan i usuall only use the big wheel xD. Yes Chiniese Minilathe need some(a lot) improvement but on the other hand a lathe is better than no lathe :D , next aviable Model costs 4x as much. I also found that you have to just improve your skills than you can compensate for the issues with the minilathe :). Your video are great for ideas , thank you.
Mine is slightly different it has some holes on the top surface, so I 3d printed a part to hold motor bracket in place I added a nema 17 motor 5-8mm coupler (great that the end of the leadscrew was 8mm) also a thin thrust bearing between the dials.
Hi Steve, i have bought a chinese lathe a few months ago and i have a problem with the cross slide, it has to be very stiff in order to be acurate or the oposite,what can i do to solve this.The metal piece for the slide has a curve when i took everything apart
Hi If the gib strip is bent you could carefully straighten it. You can also assemble the cross slide and use fine valve grinding paste then Solvo or T-cut to lap the gib & slide. Making sure the gib is tightened lightly and evenly. If it jams, slacken the gib and start again. Always making sure the gib goes back in the correct place each time. Then strip and clean everything with paraffin, oil up and test it. It takes some time but the end results are good. If you do this, just imagine that you are lapping the working surfaces together, the gib strip and the slide angle it touches.
Hi David, On the brass one I just found I couldn't get a close enough adjustment without it becoming too tight to wind. It may be that the gib wasn't machined correct. I do have a brass one in the cross slide that works nicely though. When I put the steel one back in the compound it was so much more solid and positive to adjust and it works smoothly over the entire length.
+sam terian Hi Sam you need to wind the compound right back until the two allen bolts underneath it are visible. Slacken these two bolts...set the compound angle and re tighten them...then wind the compound back onto its slide. Regards Steve
I use the ball bearing instead of making a drilled indent in the gib strip which would also require a lug to be turned on the end of the screw. If you just used a screw straight onto the gib, only the top side of the end of the screw would touch the angle on the gib strip. Using a ball causes the load to bear down in the centre, like the existing grub screws. Regards Steve
Half way when I watched this footage, I put a strong magnet on the side of the compound to see if it can lock the compound or not. Not quite, but it is harder to turn.
@@SteveJordan ok, I could see that the gib is angled so thought that was the reason. The bolt end has an edge to it. Do you suggest I kinda just round up the bolt end a tad ?
Hi Peter It took me a while to find it. RDG SELL IT HERE:- www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/TAP-AND-REAMER-HOLDER-SELF-ALIGNING-1-2--DRILLING-REAMING-TAPPING---465311.html Regards Steve
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Just carried out this mod on the compound slide, it was very easy and effective. I am going to do the cross slide mod next. Thanks Mr Jordan.
Thanks for posting this. I am gradually learning how to improve my own Chinese made mini lathe. Although I’m really pleased with it, it does need these small improvements, mainly to stop “chatter” of the cut and to make the adjustments easier. I think this mod will actually support the gibs better, even when it’s not locked.
Did this upgrade to my sieg sc3. Rock solid now and has also improved the smoothness of the winding operation. Thanks.
Did this mod on my Clarke cl300m yesterday 09/11/19, which is the same as the Chinese mini lathe, just in canary yellow finish. I have not tested it yet as I run out of time. Will be testing its rigidity on the 11/11/19. I was having problems with the rigidity of the cross slide on my mini lathe. So hopefully this will cure the problem. Thank you Mr Jordan.
Great videos, very informative and helpful.
Jason
My lathe is identical to what you showed in the video.
I wanted to do something like that, but I was afraid to change it.
After watching your video, I feel more confident in doing so.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi Amilton, That's great. Thanks for watching and commenting....Regards Steve
Amazing!what is the name of the tool you use to drive the screw perfectly perpendicular?where i can buy one?thank you..
Thanks for the very informative video's on the Chinese Mini Lathe which I have watched all. Excellent. Would it be any advantage to use ball bearings in the gib adjusting screws as well as the locking bolts?
HI Michael Thanks for watching. I used to put a ball bearing in there but I didn't find a noticeable difference. Regards Steve
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Whenever possible slides should be locked if your not using them. You see that recommendation mentioned when using a milling machine all the time. I've always thought the same was true for lathes as well. So a good improvement Steve.
Fwiw George Thomas in his book The Model Engineers Workshop Manual went into a fair amount of detail about gibs and gib screw adjustment. He logically pointed out why most home shop lathes were designed incorrectly in the area where the gib screws bear against the gib strip. Most are simply drilled so the drill point just starts into the gib strip so that the pointed gib screws will hold the gib from moving. Unfortunately that doesn't quite work so well in practice. The few thousandths required for clearance to allow the slide to move also allows the gib to move a fraction. That in turn tends to wedge the gib strip up onto the tapered sides of the screw tips and tightening the carefully set adjustments. His redesign involved drilling right through the gib strip and then making new screws with a short parallel turned section on the end of the gib screw. That way the gib is held in place with no wedging action as the slide is moved. It does work far better and I think the gib can be adjusted just a bit tighter without adding any more friction.
Thanks for the info. Very interesting. I never knew that was a recommendation for a milling machine. I keep mine locked all the time now and only unlock when I need to use the compound. It is much easier to get dead accurate machining and good finishes.
Glad you found that useful Steve. There has to be at least a few thou clearance on the slides or they'd be impossible to move. On our lighter duty machines that can show up in the surface finishes just like you've found. Even more so on the top slide since there's that stack up of all the small clearances needed from the carriage, cross slide and the top combined. Very large commercial lathes not only have all that mass that helps to resist the cutting forces but there generally built with tighter clearances at least when there new.
It's pretty easy to measure the clearance on a mill's slides since the X and Y axis are at 90 degrees to each other. Mine was built in Taiwan and even when brand new with the gibs properly adjusted there was still right around .003"- .004" clearance. That will show up in the cutting surface unless you lock the slide your not using. I think you might find you get a bit better tool life as well by locking your slides as much as possible. Especially with any carbide your using. It needs all the rigidity you can come up with for the best tool life.
Old post. But Can you make some diagram about your method of upgrade?
Steve once again, thank you for that simple but great idea, added to my must do list.
incidentally I was looking at the gib screws fitted to my lathe only this morning, currently cap heads, I'll be changing them all to grub screws as in some positions they foul other components.
Hi David, Thanks. I think this modification totally transforms the lathe. I leave my locking screw lightly tightened all the time, unless i use the compound slide. I found the accuracy and finishes improves a great deal on all turning and boring operations as well as milling etc.
Hi Steve, I am an avid follower of your upgrades, have made several already. This has to be the best, reduces chatter if the gib scews are slightly slack from repetion and improves the cutting finish enormously. Logically the crosslide has to be done also, a little time consuming to set a cut, but very worthwhile. Once again many thanks for your time and knowledge in uploading these tips etc. Best wishes Mike.
Hi Mike, Thanks. Yes I found this one very worthwhile. I haven't done the cross-slide yet. Its a good idea though, because I see they have factory fitted locking screws on the later Myford cross-slides. I will get around to doing my Mini Lathe sometime. Regards Steve
You have my envy with a Myford, I live in Brazil and quality English machines are impossible here.
The Myford is a great machine. I was fortunate as my brother gave it to me. I still love the Mini Lathe though and have made hundreds of nice components using it. I have just made some wick feed oilers for the Myford lathe on the Mini Lathe. I hope to show how I make them soon and the turning tools used. I was going to start the video this evening, but its freezing cold weather and I have no heat in the shed!
Some people talk as if the Mini Lathe is no good, but I wouldn't be without mine. It is so quick to use. I have learned so much using it and doing the upgrades! Regards Steve
I agree completely, I thourghly enjoy my mini lathe Sieg Sc2, I also have a Sieg xs1 mini mill. Need to be careful and patient when machining but the results to be fair are very satisfying. Lots of info and books available, for me a wonderful hobby and pleasure.
If you do this mod on the crosslide and lock it down, then the compound needs to move to make the cuts,...I'm thinking that it's better to keep the compound locked down because it's the smallest/lightest component??
I'm not happy with the crosslide either but you have to be able to advance the cutting tool in some way,.. I always try to lock the carriage down too.
Hi Steve, thanks for all your very informative videos. Do you have a link for the Saddle Backplate Upgrade video? I remember watching it years ago but cannot find it now and thought I would take the opportunity whilst I have my machine disassembled.
Thanks I will try and find it later. It is on there somewhere. Regards Steve
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Hi Steve great info. I'm going to do this too. Can I ask is your tailstock the one that came with the lathe? It looks much better than the tailstock on mine (wider base and more solid looking) if not could you tell me where you bought it?
Very good addition. I will do the same. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks.
Hi Steve.. why you did bras instead steel bolts?
That looks like a good idea, but maybe a little inconvenient to fool with a screwdriver.
Is there room in that area to use mini mill locking levers instead of screws?
I have since changed them to allen bolts. A lever would get in the way
Fantastic idea. Very well explained. Have now subscribed. Thank you
Hi Thanks for watching & Subscribing.....Hope to do another video soon.....Regards Steve
Thank's Steve. Just a shame that was your last update on the Chinese Mini Lathe as I enjoyed them immensely even though I have a Warco Super Mini most are still totally relevant and excellent.
Thanks. I have finished upgrading the mini lathe now, but will show more videos using it soon. Regards Steve
Hallo, Jordan, i went on a similar modification on my chinese lathe ( this marked Einhell MTB 3000, but very similar to your lathe . . . ) ; i added 2 more adjustable stainless-steel screws, with fixed nuts, not brass-adjustable as you made ( that now i see it should be a better solution ).
In any case, too much often i have to readjust the screws . . . i fear the problem is not wearing of the compound-slide, but instead the compound-slide itself, too much weak, it is too much thin on both sides, and i suppose it tends to "open" . . . what do you think about it ? And what to do then ? I haven't a milling tool ( nor the experience . . . ) otherwise i'll gone on the construction of a more strong compound-slide . . .
Instead, the crossing-slide is ok, lathing-work pushes it down on it's supports ; on the contrary the compound-slide often works a bit away from supports . . . and so it tends to lift on its back . . .
Cheers, Alessandro from Italy.
Thank You Steve. Nice addition and like the ball bearings. Since I got my peanut the gibs have been the biggest source of frustration. I changed my screws to stainless a long while back and they do make a difference, but I got dog points instead of cones. Found a tiny end mil (PCB drill) and flattened and deepened the holes on the gib to match the dog points depth minus a skosh. Below someone suggested a through drill¿, but mine are about 60% better now. The issue you brought up about going to brass and being sensitive is definitely a fiddly problem, especially trying to get the backlash to a minimum and still have a smooth running fit. To me the steel or what ever they are made from (old beer cans) is the real problem...two weeks after lapping they are not flat again. Do you have any recommendations for type of metal to make some from? I was thinking something like 1080 or 1144 stress proof or maybe even unhardened O1? Thanks for all your time and tips with these great videos!! ~PJ
Hi PJ thanks, that is very interesting about the flattening the holes etc. I think I would use O1 if I was making them. The Chinese lathes seem to vary a bit. Mine seems to be very good on the compound gib now. Think it has run in a bit. My tail-stock was really bad though. I had to re adjust the cam and re drill the screw indents in the correct position. I bought my Chinese lathe about five years ago. I have heard that they have improved a lot now. One thing I cannot understand is why they are still selling them with those plastic gears in the head-stock, when there are the metal ones available. There must be loads of of them out there with stripped gears! Regards Steve
Thanks Steve, I was leaning that way. The old cone points seem to create burs and don't push perpendicular very well, imho. Also the thread quality seems to be
Thank you for the video . I want to do it myself - TAP AND REAMER HOLDER. Will you have a video on this topic? I'm interested in dimensions, drawing with dimensions of parts. Can your channel help? Thanks.
Hi Thanks but I do not work by any drawings or particular dimensions. I just make thing to fit together as I machine them. I gave up using drawings many years ago, as these make dimensions specific and slow up making components considerably. You just need the taps, reamers and dies and can make the holder to suit their dimensions. The rest is just what you choose to suit its particular use on the lathe, like how I use my die holder. Its so much easier and practical than using specific dimensions... Regards Steve
Nice modification. I'll also make that for my mini lathe. What is the make/name of your quick change toolpost ? Does it have 10mm bore ?
+nakotorni Hi its Dixon type toolpost. The bore is a bit oversized on the bolt but I wrap some copper shim around it first. Regards Steve
Hi, I did this upgrade some years back when I first started engineering. I didn't have ball bearings at the time so I just used allen bolts. What is the purpose of the ball bearing? Would the addition of a spring be helpful? I'm having significant problems with rigidity in the compound. I've lapped the gib to no avail and even changed the top part where the tool post bolts on. My compound rocks slightly and will cause a carbide index to break when parting off unless the compound is tightly locked down. Thanks for your thoughts.
Hi Jeffery. The compound slide on the Mini Lathe is a weak point on the lathe. I never actually part off anything unless it is thin walled or a shallow cut. That is why I went over to making a compound block rather than using the slide. Before making that one I used to hacksaw most things off to save the trouble.
All you have to do to keep taps in line is,put the tap in the drill machine chuck and start the thread by hand,it aligns itself.Ronnie.
I just did a variation of this modification. Thanks for the idea. My changes were to make screws that could be tightened by hand instead of needing a screwdriver or other tool. I made the screws out of aluminum instead of brass as that was the stock I had on hand. Some pics at www.snafu.org/other/2017-new-lathe/0502/
Hi, Thanks for commenting and showing your photos. That is a great idea. I will upgrade mine to these at some point. Regards Steve
Steve Jordan Hi Steve. New to mini lathes and learning lots.....mainly from you. Was looking at the modification on the compound slide. I've attempted to cut some tapers at various angles on my Clarke CL300M...but I notice that when I cut the tools doesn't cut true as there is play in the compound as it enters the work. Will this modification eliminate that so that I can cut accurate tapers?. Thanks Steve.
Hi David, no these are for locking the compound so it cannot move at all. Its the existing grub screws on the side of the compound slide that you need to adjust to take out excess movement. You just undo the locknuts and use an allen key to tighten the gib. Its a fine adjustment that needs to take out side movement, but not so tight that the compound slide is too hard to wind. Also you will find it is critical to have the right type of turning tool set dead on centre height and wind the compound back first so that it isn't too far forward, having too much overhang from the base of the slide....so it has maximum support of the length of the gib strip assembly.
One thing worth mentioning as well. I had a brass gib strip in mine for some time. These are no good on the compound and do not give the correct support or smooth movement. It works best with the original steel gib strip that comes with the lathe. You can buy these steel ones from Amadeal......Regards Steve
Hi.i do not understand YOU.you have a beautifull MYFORD but the cinese lathe Why do you need?
Hello Steve.
For a beginner like me there are (at least) two things that are not obvious to me (1) must the adjustment screws be on the gib side and not on the other where they will be more ot ot the way (2) are the steel balls supposed to spinn and if so how do you prevent them from falling out.
Regards/Ingvar
Yes, the adjustment screws must be on the gib side because they push the ball bearings against the gib to tighten the gibs against the slide to "stop" it via friction. Essentially, they are "extra" gib screws. You could technically lock the compound slide without doing this mod by using the original/existing gib screws. But the problem with doing that is that you would then have to readjust your original/existing gib screws again when you are done so that the compound slide can move freely again. This modification allows you to use the "new/extra" brass gib screws to temporarily lock the slide without touching the original/existing gib screws. Hope that makes sense.
The ball bearings should move freely in the hole. But they will not fall out because they are held in the hole on one side by the screw and on the other side by the gib strip.
Could you use a m4 or m5 ball plunger hex head instead of the ball bearing and brass screw? Would the ball plunger provide enough pressure? Thanks
Hi I have since taken the ball out and have ordinary set screws for locking directly onto the gib. A spring plunger wouldn't lock the slide. Regards Steve
Steve,
Thanks again for passing your knowledge on to others.
Would it be possible to do a vid on your metal scribing tool? I've seen others on RUclips and Ebay (including the Starrett 29b), but none of them seem to be as functional as yours.
Regards,
Kevin
Love it, simple and effective.
Great upgrade. Technical question...what is the reason for going to stainless grub screws? Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks, I didn't think the grub screws that came in the lathe were very good quality. Whenever I change screws I usually replace them with stainless as they are less prone to corrosion and seem to be better on the allen sockets.
1:29 i would recommend to build them as thumbscrews for faster daily use
(could be made from 10-12mm Steel rod for example)
Yes it's whatever you prefer. I rarely use the compound on mine so I have made a difference fixed tool post. The compound slide on the Chinese mini lathe is a very poor design although one can get by using it with some modifications.
@@SteveJordan i usuall only use the big wheel xD. Yes Chiniese Minilathe need some(a lot) improvement but on the other hand a lathe is better than no lathe :D , next aviable Model costs 4x as much.
I also found that you have to just improve your skills than you can compensate for the issues with the minilathe :).
Your video are great for ideas , thank you.
Thank you so much! Your videos are very informative.
Hi Bruce....Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
When you were unscrewing the tap from the hole when you were demonstrating the tool was the tap bent or was the tapped hole bent or both
Neither, it must be an optical illusion.
Mine is slightly different it has some holes on the top surface, so I 3d printed a part to hold motor bracket in place I added a nema 17 motor 5-8mm coupler (great that the end of the leadscrew was 8mm) also a thin thrust bearing between the dials.
where you get your ball bearing?
Hi Steve, i have bought a chinese lathe a few months ago and i have a problem with the cross slide, it has to be very stiff in order to be acurate or the oposite,what can i do to solve this.The metal piece for the slide has a curve when i took everything apart
Hi If the gib strip is bent you could carefully straighten it. You can also assemble the cross slide and use fine valve grinding paste then Solvo or T-cut to lap the gib & slide. Making sure the gib is tightened lightly and evenly. If it jams, slacken the gib and start again. Always making sure the gib goes back in the correct place each time. Then strip and clean everything with paraffin, oil up and test it. It takes some time but the end results are good. If you do this, just imagine that you are lapping the working surfaces together, the gib strip and the slide angle it touches.
Nice Steve, I 'll do this to mine. What problem did you have with the brass gibs? Thanks Dave
Hi David, On the brass one I just found I couldn't get a close enough adjustment without it becoming too tight to wind. It may be that the gib wasn't machined correct. I do have a brass one in the cross slide that works nicely though. When I put the steel one back in the compound it was so much more solid and positive to adjust and it works smoothly over the entire length.
hi sir
is it possible to change nut to anti backlash?or make one?
many thanks
nice video
+Ali T n Hi I put a few copper shim washers in between the graduated handle mechanism to take out the backlash....Regards Steve
Steve Jordan hi thanks for answering,but my question was in general :is it possible to use new anti backlash in a Y or Z axis in a lathe machine?
just purchased one myself and I'm not able to set an angle on my compound is there a lock I'm not able to see?
+sam terian Hi Sam you need to wind the compound right back until the two allen bolts underneath it are visible. Slacken these two bolts...set the compound angle and re tighten them...then wind the compound back onto its slide. Regards Steve
Hi Again Chronos taping tool I cant seem to find one. Do they still make them?
Kronos link does not work* please can I find another way?
Steve, if I may ask, why the ball bearing on the locking screws?
I use the ball bearing instead of making a drilled indent in the gib strip which would also require a lug to be turned on the end of the screw. If you just used a screw straight onto the gib, only the top side of the end of the screw would touch the angle on the gib strip. Using a ball causes the load to bear down in the centre, like the existing grub screws. Regards Steve
Thanks for the video! Very informative!
Hi..... Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
ans idea how the mod with the top-adjusting saddle plates works?
Thanks my mini late is fucked this will realy help, the machineing from factory is rat shit .
Half way when I watched this footage, I put a strong magnet on the side of the compound to see if it can lock the compound or not. Not quite, but it is harder to turn.
Ty for all yourhelp
I'm no professional but I'm not understanding the need for a ball bearing. Every way I look at it I just cant figure the reason.
Ok, never mind. I engaged my brain and figured it out myself. Gads, I can be so dense at times.
I took the ball out in the end as it was not really needed. It works ok without one. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan ok, I could see that the gib is angled so thought that was the reason. The bolt end has an edge to it. Do you suggest I kinda just round up the bolt end a tad ?
Hi CAn you still find that tapping tool? If so whats the name or part number
Hi can you let me know what it was for, I've completely forgotten?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
What a great idea!
wish l could buy copy of scriber tool.
hi again the tapping tool by kronos I cant seem to find one
Hi Peter It took me a while to find it. RDG SELL IT HERE:-
www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/TAP-AND-REAMER-HOLDER-SELF-ALIGNING-1-2--DRILLING-REAMING-TAPPING---465311.html
Regards Steve
RDG EBAY
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDGTOOLS-TAP-AND-REAMER-HOLDER-SELF-ALIGNING-1-2-DRILLING-REAMING-TAPPING/371998001403?hash=item569ccf08fb:g:e74AAOSwrfVZVg0f
Thank you.
Hey i found the tap wrench at shars..
www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/TAP-AND-REAMER-HOLDER-SELF-ALIGNING-1-2--DRILLING-REAMING-TAPPING---465311.html
Muito bom
my gib strip doesnt line up with the screws..
thats china for ya.
"laaaaaaathe"