This video is making a simple process way more difficult than it needs to be. Just take 2 pieces of wire and spade terminals each end and connect positive to positive and negative to negative to each battery and connect up to 30 seconds, then try to charge the bad one. May need to charge the good one fully after the 30 seconds since voltage on it goes down. May need to repeat this process several times of using good battery to shock dead battery and then putting good one back on charger. And no, the battery will not be rejected permanently after 3 times of not being able to recharge. I have used my method of shocking low voltage battery and never had an issue. Can use any 18 to 20 volt battery to do this trick. No special tools needed. You're welcome.
Really? I read it everywhere that "faulty battery" 3 times will brick the PCB. A lot of people had to toss their healthy batteries because of low voltage since the charger bricks it after 3 times they say. Update: I charged mine with a 20V 2.25Ah AC adapter to 18V then I put it in the Makita charger and fully charged it without any problem.
Thumbs up if it works, it's not going to short and blow up or something is it lol. I have a few aftermarket Makita batteries that will not charge, I'm not cheap, I just wanted the smaller profile 3 amp battery which Makita doesn't make. They worked okay when they were brand new but the charger is rejecting them
Hello, what about getting a small/cheap aliexpress bms board that fits and solder it to the battery contacts and connect it to the incoming current. No need to have this external charger everytime. Or what a about a set up with resistors connected to the incoming current, you only need like 4 volts Regards
@@JacobALewis ...Scam site, don't you know. Any site that has a long presentation filled with remarkable claims talking endlessly never really showing a product...it's a scam.
makita charger has protection function.after three charging times , charger notices fail such as red and green light blinks , the circuit on battery will be locked.
@@PatriotPaulUSA so, if that happens to me should i throw it out or let someone fix it? Someone ran over my backpack and my cordless driver was in it and it broke when i inserted my battery in it to see if it still works it overheated the battery and now it dows the red and red blink.
I took a laptop charger and spliced in two pins. I placed the pins in to pos and negative side of the battery. I used a digital outlet timer to turn on the charger an hour/ then off an hour/ then on an hour. I did this to let the cells equalize. I ran the charger 8 total off on hours and they are running great. Not sure how or why but I have my drill again
Sorry, but the cells won't equalize themselves, so this could have ended badly. If you wanna go this way, just charge the package up to the point where it's normally empty (use voltmeter to check) and the original charger will probably accept it at that point (unless you have dead cells - open up the package and check that all cells are healthy, before using this method). Always watch the battery while charging this way and occasionally check for the abnormal amounts of heat. The safest one is to simply charge one cell at a time - apply a maximum of 4.2 volts (with limited current) across each cell, untill it reaches the desired voltage - say 3.7 or 4V and then let the original charger finish the work.
Used two new batteries just a few times, then didn't use the drill for a long time. Now the batteries are rejected. This seems to be a common problem. Next time I will buy a drill with a cord.
Or you could learn from your mistakes. Batteries lose charge over time. Different battery chemistries have different characteristics, Google is your friend 'Lithium battery care and maintenance The chargers are designed to detect a battery by a specific voltage threshold being met, closing a gate and making the circuit connection to apply the charge... This issue applies to all batteries... laptop, phone, literally everything these days. We often leave tools in places where they get cold overnight. If you had a classic car in the garage, that wouldn't start if left for months on end in the garage either
This is why if you get red and green flashing like that do not put it back unless it's at least partially charged. If you try three times it will permanently rejectbthat battery = bricked!
Good stuff. I've been doing the same thing to my packs, but decided to re-use the yellow connector and replace the PCB instead. Bit more robust, but more work. And those accucell6's are brilliant aren't they (although I am on my 3rd fan, I've used mine so much)
+xxwookey Thanks. You re absolutely right what you did is the logical next step and probably the best solution. I also plan to do this. And yes the charger does an amazing job with full battery control.
@@manjichromagnon5480, great observation work, you've noticed how self entitled one could be by merely wanting to get the information offered in a video. Great work, there are millions of others out there asking for a lot too, go get em tiger!
Let you guys in to a secret I had 3 old battery in my shed for years they were dead not charging all I done was connect them to my car batterys charger obviously negative 1st left them about 2mins put on drill charger and started charging again easy peasy be lucky hope this helps a few out
Blue and orange got to ? and yellow goes to + - OR where? side of bats. was reading all but may have missed that part. Also you use this to charge the Bat all the time or regular charger ?
It is very shameful. I've had multiple chargers go out, ruining otherwise healthy tool sets. This video is basically taking the same steps that I did. These cheap chargers are far superior to the ones sent with the tools, and they cost much less. My makita stopped charging all batteries because of 'temperature'. There's nothing wrong with the batteries. So don't throw away your chargers when they croak, because they are still useful.
Little confused where you soldier all your wires,,to each bat? and tuck the new 5 pin connector under the tool when connected. Have you ever tried to build a spot welder from a 12v bat with solenoids for this ?
I know that is not best solution, but used 18650 butteries,that are in low voltage, i connecting with imaxB6 in Ni battery charging mode, as far as get till 3v then switch to Li battery charging mode,then charger accept it and keep charging till get full
Umm, no. 7.8 volts is definitely not healthy. What is obvious, is there IS a problem. Somewhere. The chargers aren't just going to reject a good battery. A 4s pack at LEAST 10v, and that is pushing it to the absolute edge. And only for Sony hybrid cells that can be pushed down that far. Sounds like you have a couple bad cells.
Если просела ниже предела - то штатный зарядник заряжать не будет. И после трёх отказов идёт блокировка платы в батарее от дальнейших попыток зарядки штатной зарядкой.
when the balance charger detected low voltage and would refuse to charge , can that be the same reason battery packs own charger wouldn't charge too? Have you attempted to charge it with low current also then trying again?
+FunSpace Q1: mabe this could be, but as I have read about this issue most people tell about broken electronic circuits in the pack. Q2: Surely I did try it. But when circuit is broken in the pack you have no chance.
Nice, thanks. I think I'd prefer to reuse a broken makita charger just for its socket, to save poking wires in. I'd probably forget which way round they went
Have a makita 7000 7.2v battery. The charger wont charge it will charge one of my batteries but not the other one can you tell me how too get it charged for
Friend - Congratulations on the video - My MAKITA DC18RA charger burst components and I don't know the code to buy - They are the IC PWM with 4 pins on one side and 3 pins on the other position IC-1 - And the other one is likely a transistor in position IC -4 which is close to the (smaller) TR2 transformer -------- IT WILL HELP A LOT TO KNOW THE CODES OF THESE TWO COMPONENTS SO THAT I CAN REPAIR THE CHARGER - I appreciate your attention - Thank you
I think it should be a combination of both but it depends on the issue. if the circuit of the battery is broken the charger will reject it if it is unable to read/comm with it. I also read about an error storage within the battery electronics which stores errors of unsuccessful charging attempts which leads to a permanent denial of any further charging attempts. Unsuccessful charging happens even if your battery has an "undervoltage" which lets any LiIon/po charger refuse to charge it. Therefore you first have to jump start the battery by an appropriate power supply or like by any charger in NiMh mode as I have shown in the video. If you do this it s important to limit the current to avoid damage to your battery cells. Since jump starting alone often does not the do the trick I am pretty happy with my own solution provided in the video.
I reflowed the whole underside of board and then fiddled with the yellow wired connectors. Possible shitty connection there. I can't say for sure what part exactly was the problem but... It came good. Now accepts batteries and plays the crappy tune.
Thank you for the video. You can to this mod or just not buy anything from makita anymore. The broken by design stuff needs to go. I hope more people get to know this nonsense and ne fabricated junk. Right now the last two makita bms pcbs are gone on my last tool. Switching to a different brand w/o the hassle.
the problem is that the cells on these batteries werent balanced by the bms. the charger cant solve the problem, becouse it is trying to charge the whole set of cells in series. a terrible way of saving a buck by makita. the problem is with the battery, but to be expected with this design
He added balancing cables to get baterries equaly charged so it's same voltage at the end. This type of chargers can check capacity also. (Batteries have eeprom inside where number of charges is storred, and this way it is limited to e.g.: 1000 IDK, even with all healthy cells.)
Why ? Because 1 cell is weak and it keeps you from blowing your battery up? If you educate yourself, you can charge the weak cell like he did. Its pretty smart and he has "fixed" his own battery!
This was s copied from another guys video. The first battery you opened has the more advanced BCU board and the load balancers are already connected to the yellow port. No need to open and solder on. Also some BCU have a chip onboard that will lock out the charging capabillity so a new board is necessary. Chio is Renesas NEC and encrypted dump.
How am I meant to use a Makita battery tool to fix my broken makita battery when I only have one battery?? AND THAT ONE IS BROKEN if you didn't know that already.
funny, my drill wont accept the modification. so the new stuff needs the control terminal, as well ... sick. (the most useless item, the makita torch still works fine, because just +/- needed. the drills i have wont even start , with a fully balanced, charged pack. so sick...!)
@@sharenicethings sure thing. i can buy a new battery, as well. thats not the point. the sickening part is the planned obsolecense. in a professional tool. i hate that. i want an override button at least...
You need one for each connection between the batteries. This means on a 4 pack -> 3. Additionally you need 2 more wires for measuring the total voltage of the pack. One on positive and one on negative pole. Just search google for "lipo balancer wire" if you need more info about this.
If all you do is drill holes ,then you are good to go,all you have to do is start working on your extention cords,because as you may allready know electricity is not wireless
Why don't you talk instead of all that typing up military style text??? And we don't all have 100 inch TV's to work out what the text says! Ffs just do a talk over. I'd much rather buy a new battery that watch this pish.
If this is still the same video then you need glasses or bigger monitor. I see text OK.(not on full screen.) I can stop and read everything, I'm not fluent in english...
Seriously??? when your drill goes bad are you going to build a new drill from scratch? This is way too much work for someone who has way too much time...
If you are interested in the awesome balanced charger I use, you might have a look here (amazon affiliate link):
amzn.to/2V0LhGZ
ty
thanks for this great information, will this charger work with aftermarket replacement battery packs?
This video is making a simple process way more difficult than it needs to be. Just take 2 pieces of wire and spade terminals each end and connect positive to positive and negative to negative to each battery and connect up to 30 seconds, then try to charge the bad one. May need to charge the good one fully after the 30 seconds since voltage on it goes down. May need to repeat this process several times of using good battery to shock dead battery and then putting good one back on charger. And no, the battery will not be rejected permanently after 3 times of not being able to recharge. I have used my method of shocking low voltage battery and never had an issue. Can use any 18 to 20 volt battery to do this trick. No special tools needed. You're welcome.
Really? I read it everywhere that "faulty battery" 3 times will brick the PCB. A lot of people had to toss their healthy batteries because of low voltage since the charger bricks it after 3 times they say. Update: I charged mine with a 20V 2.25Ah AC adapter to 18V then I put it in the Makita charger and fully charged it without any problem.
Thank you
I been jumping my car like that everyday lol lol
Thumbs up if it works, it's not going to short and blow up or something is it lol.
I have a few aftermarket Makita batteries that will not charge, I'm not cheap, I just wanted the smaller profile 3 amp battery which Makita doesn't make.
They worked okay when they were brand new but the charger is rejecting them
I love the "simple" tag
Anything but, right? Cool charger though.
It's simple to me..
Couldn’t watch the video. Having trouble with the audio as I can’t hear you talking us through it.
Guess I'll buy a new one then. But thank you for charing!
boss, that second option (blinking red light) means. how can i fix this problems
Hello, what about getting a small/cheap aliexpress bms board that fits and solder it to the battery contacts and connect it to the incoming current. No need to have this external charger everytime.
Or what a about a set up with resistors connected to the incoming current, you only need like 4 volts Regards
Way too much work. Im buying new batteries
There must be some kind of "hack"- battery that you can buy, that is both compatible with Makita and easy to open for change of cells
@@JacobALewis this a scam
@@JacobALewis ...Scam site, don't you know. Any site that has a long presentation filled with remarkable claims talking endlessly never really showing a product...it's a scam.
Try a whole new drill set like Ryobi, Milwaukee, or DeWault. The working man hasn't got time for that shit. Nice hack though.
Rich dude
makita charger has protection function.after three charging times , charger notices fail such as red and green light blinks , the circuit on battery will be locked.
Exactly! It is to protect the 200 lb gorilla from melting his battery, because he doesn't understand, or want to deal with cell balancing.
@@PatriotPaulUSA so, if that happens to me should i throw it out or let someone fix it?
Someone ran over my backpack and my cordless driver was in it and it broke when i inserted my battery in it to see if it still works it overheated the battery and now it dows the red and red blink.
I took a laptop charger and spliced in two pins. I placed the pins in to pos and negative side of the battery. I used a digital outlet timer to turn on the charger an hour/ then off an hour/ then on an hour. I did this to let the cells equalize. I ran the charger 8 total off on hours and they are running great. Not sure how or why but I have my drill again
Sorry, but the cells won't equalize themselves, so this could have ended badly. If you wanna go this way, just charge the package up to the point where it's normally empty (use voltmeter to check) and the original charger will probably accept it at that point (unless you have dead cells - open up the package and check that all cells are healthy, before using this method). Always watch the battery while charging this way and occasionally check for the abnormal amounts of heat. The safest one is to simply charge one cell at a time - apply a maximum of 4.2 volts (with limited current) across each cell, untill it reaches the desired voltage - say 3.7 or 4V and then let the original charger finish the work.
Used two new batteries just a few times, then didn't use the drill for a long time. Now the batteries are rejected. This seems to be a common problem. Next time I will buy a drill with a cord.
Or you could learn from your mistakes. Batteries lose charge over time. Different battery chemistries have different characteristics, Google is your friend 'Lithium battery care and maintenance
The chargers are designed to detect a battery by a specific voltage threshold being met, closing a gate and making the circuit connection to apply the charge...
This issue applies to all batteries... laptop, phone, literally everything these days.
We often leave tools in places where they get cold overnight.
If you had a classic car in the garage, that wouldn't start if left for months on end in the garage either
This is why if you get red and green flashing like that do not put it back unless it's at least partially charged. If you try three times it will permanently rejectbthat battery = bricked!
You re right, besides a real hardware error within the electronic circuit this can be one option for the reject.
In that case, this is why one shouldn't buy these products. 🤷♂️
@s可以解锁了harenicethings
Good stuff. I've been doing the same thing to my packs, but decided to re-use the yellow connector and replace the PCB instead. Bit more robust, but more work. And those accucell6's are brilliant aren't they (although I am on my 3rd fan, I've used mine so much)
+xxwookey Thanks. You re absolutely right what you did is the logical next step and probably the best solution. I also plan to do this. And yes the charger does an amazing job with full battery control.
Guess I need to find my reading glasses for this video if I want to know what's going on.
@@manjichromagnon5480, great observation work, you've noticed how self entitled one could be by merely wanting to get the information offered in a video. Great work, there are millions of others out there asking for a lot too, go get em tiger!
Let you guys in to a secret I had 3 old battery in my shed for years they were dead not charging all I done was connect them to my car batterys charger obviously negative 1st left them about 2mins put on drill charger and started charging again easy peasy be lucky hope this helps a few out
Bro i jst tried this and it seems to be charging....... Do you have to keep using car charger everytime?...........sweet hack though👍
Hi, not sorry tech savy, could you please elaborate? Your method sounds the easiest of all I've seen. I have one of those CTek battery thingies.
I assuming your batteries was 12v
Tried 18 v batteries, doesn’t working
Now put it back into the Makita charger and see if it works...
Only if the PCB is not already permanently locked, which it will after 3 errors.
Blue and orange got to ? and yellow goes to + - OR where? side of bats. was reading all but may have missed that part. Also you use this to charge the Bat all the time or regular charger ?
It is very shameful. I've had multiple chargers go out, ruining otherwise healthy tool sets. This video is basically taking the same steps that I did. These cheap chargers are far superior to the ones sent with the tools, and they cost much less. My makita stopped charging all batteries because of 'temperature'. There's nothing wrong with the batteries. So don't throw away your chargers when they croak, because they are still useful.
Little confused where you soldier all your wires,,to each bat? and tuck the new 5 pin connector under the tool when connected. Have you ever tried to build a spot welder from a 12v bat with solenoids for this ?
I know that is not best solution, but used 18650 butteries,that are in low voltage, i connecting with imaxB6 in Ni battery charging mode, as far as get till 3v then switch to Li battery charging mode,then charger accept it and keep charging till get full
i have same issue with the 12v but its the charger not battery
any one got vid on how to fix chargers
Couldn’t find your video
Does the battery have a bad cell? Why does the makita charger refuse to charge it?
Obviously the batteries are healthy as shown in the video.
Umm, no. 7.8 volts is definitely not healthy. What is obvious, is there IS a problem. Somewhere. The chargers aren't just going to reject a good battery. A 4s pack at LEAST 10v, and that is pushing it to the absolute edge. And only for Sony hybrid cells that can be pushed down that far. Sounds like you have a couple bad cells.
i use nicad setting to revive drone lipos
Glad it helped...
Is there not a 7 pin connector that can plug directly into the factory terminal?
It is not working same way...
You can get one on ebay but the packs aren't wired to Balance charge
А почему зарядное устройство Макиты посчитало батарею мертвой?
Если просела ниже предела - то штатный зарядник заряжать не будет. И после трёх отказов идёт блокировка платы в батарее от дальнейших попыток зарядки штатной зарядкой.
Ok I’m done watching this. I need much more resources and time then the battery worth.
when the balance charger detected low voltage and would refuse to charge , can that be the same reason battery packs own charger wouldn't charge too? Have you attempted to charge it with low current also then trying again?
+FunSpace Q1: mabe this could be, but as I have read about this issue most people tell about broken electronic circuits in the pack. Q2: Surely I did try it. But when circuit is broken in the pack you have no chance.
sharenicethings n
Nice, thanks.
I think I'd prefer to reuse a broken makita charger just for its socket, to save poking wires in. I'd probably forget which way round they went
You are completely right. You surely can improve at this end. I remember it by the two slots for the positive pole.
How long to take be fully charger?
Excelente producto
Very clever - Thank you.
You're welcome :)
Have a makita 7000 7.2v battery. The charger wont charge it will charge one of my batteries but not the other one can you tell me how too get it charged for
Spend your money on english lessons instead.
锁板了
Cant you just short the bad cells with the good cells so it equalises then charge them all at once?
Make no sens.
Friend - Congratulations on the video - My MAKITA DC18RA charger burst components and I don't know the code to buy - They are the IC PWM with 4 pins on one side and 3 pins on the other position IC-1 - And the other one is likely a transistor in position IC -4 which is close to the (smaller) TR2 transformer -------- IT WILL HELP A LOT TO KNOW THE CODES OF THESE TWO COMPONENTS SO THAT I CAN REPAIR THE CHARGER - I appreciate your attention - Thank you
So is it the charger that rejects the battery or is the battery that tells the charger "reject me"
I think it should be a combination of both but it depends on the issue. if the circuit of the battery is broken the charger will reject it if it is unable to read/comm with it. I also read about an error storage within the battery electronics which stores errors of unsuccessful charging attempts which leads to a permanent denial of any further charging attempts. Unsuccessful charging happens even if your battery has an "undervoltage" which lets any LiIon/po charger refuse to charge it. Therefore you first have to jump start the battery by an appropriate power supply or like by any charger in NiMh mode as I have shown in the video. If you do this it s important to limit the current to avoid damage to your battery cells.
Since jump starting alone often does not the do the trick I am pretty happy with my own solution provided in the video.
Any ideas why my charger stays solid green but my battery is flat and it doesn't charge??
I reflowed the whole underside of board and then fiddled with the yellow wired connectors. Possible shitty connection there. I can't say for sure what part exactly was the problem but... It came good. Now accepts batteries and plays the crappy tune.
Needs a circuit diagram and clear instructions to be safe.
I think the newer 18v li ion batteries are different , far more chips.
But this easy solution will still work as good as with old ones. You just skipping all electrinic inside battery.
Thank you for the video. You can to this mod or just not buy anything from makita anymore. The broken by design stuff needs to go. I hope more people get to know this nonsense and ne fabricated junk.
Right now the last two makita bms pcbs are gone on my last tool. Switching to a different brand w/o the hassle.
so is it the battery or the charger thats the problem?
the problem is that the cells on these batteries werent balanced by the bms. the charger cant solve the problem, becouse it is trying to charge the whole set of cells in series. a terrible way of saving a buck by makita. the problem is with the battery, but to be expected with this design
Is 18V Makita charger can charge an 8 or 12 ohms battery?
If you're going to use a non-Makita charger anyway, isn't there one that can charge the battery without modifying the battery itself?
He added balancing cables to get baterries equaly charged so it's same voltage at the end. This type of chargers can check capacity also.
(Batteries have eeprom inside where number of charges is storred, and this way it is limited to e.g.: 1000 IDK, even with all healthy cells.)
So you took a good battery and pissed it up the wall becouse of a bad charger?
No, the problem is the battery controller unit within the battery package.
mikita should replace the batteries...it's a rip off
Why ? Because 1 cell is weak and it keeps you from blowing your battery up? If you educate yourself, you can charge the weak cell like he did. Its pretty smart and he has "fixed" his own battery!
thank you
You re welcome :)
This was s copied from another guys video.
The first battery you opened has the more advanced BCU board and the load balancers are already connected to the yellow port. No need to open and solder on.
Also some BCU have a chip onboard that will lock out the charging capabillity so a new board is necessary. Chio is Renesas NEC and encrypted dump.
I'm speechless ...
Du bist gut! Like!
Thanks ;)
How am I meant to use a Makita battery tool to fix my broken makita battery when I only have one battery?? AND THAT ONE IS BROKEN if you didn't know that already.
funny, my drill wont accept the modification. so the new stuff needs the control terminal, as well ... sick. (the most useless item, the makita torch still works fine, because just +/- needed. the drills i have wont even start , with a fully balanced, charged pack. so sick...!)
Maybe just buy a new circuit (pcb) on ebay for a few bucks to fix this quickly. Cheers
@@sharenicethings sure thing. i can buy a new battery, as well. thats not the point. the sickening part is the planned obsolecense. in a professional tool. i hate that. i want an override button at least...
@@The1Rausch They all do this way this novadays. So we must be smarter.
This may be electronic challenge but not worth to do. Buy a new battery.
Nice work but i think i just buy a new one :)
Didn’t solve how to continue using the charger?
Ya but it's 2022 I don't have a radio shack
Why 5 pin balance cable? should be 6 pin, 3 per side, isn't?
You need one for each connection between the batteries. This means on a 4 pack -> 3. Additionally you need 2 more wires for measuring the total voltage of the pack. One on positive and one on negative pole. Just search google for "lipo balancer wire" if you need more info about this.
tarasmytube
having 4 cell.so it needs 5 pin balance cable
I’ve had enough of my Makita batteries always going bad
Fucking hell, mate. I thought this might be simple...
if Chuck Noriz thinks is hard..
@@cgmarch2359 Ha ha ha!
this is why i use a corded drill...good luck all ye hackers hhhhh
If all you do is drill holes ,then you are good to go,all you have to do is start working on your extention cords,because as you may allready know electricity is not wireless
buy a couple of patent just as good batteries without all the fuffin about
Why don't you talk instead of all that typing up military style text??? And we don't all have 100 inch TV's to work out what the text says!
Ffs just do a talk over.
I'd much rather buy a new battery that watch this pish.
Jump start your drill batteries
700.00 dollars later ( wera tools required) you have fixed a 50.00 battery pack and hopefully not burnt down your house
Cant see the wording....?
If this is still the same video then you need glasses or bigger monitor. I see text OK.(not on full screen.) I can stop and read everything, I'm not fluent in english...
Bye new battery better buying the charger
I think I’ll but a new battery 😢
Yeah not over complicated at all
Camara too far away from charger. Why if you have sound do you not explain what you do? Makes no sence to me.
Solve forever? Not at all. This is a workaround at best, and a pretty long-winded one at that.
Dude is cheaper to buy replacement battery than do this.waste of time.
Seriously??? when your drill goes bad are you going to build a new drill from scratch? This is way too much work for someone who has way too much time...
They are poor, they can't buy a new battery. We rich People buy, since our time is more worth while.
@@JodBronson That is actulally real reason. BTW he is saving planet by not junking ,still good, battery out.
@@-_Robert_- - 😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️
You clearly have a microphone, why not just talk
Maybe shy. Not belive in own english ability.
I won't be buying Makita stuff anymore. They have become a total rip off
Plz dont deceive people by ur tag "simple"
It isn't difficult.
This 2 fukin complicated just went bought fuk it
Why don’t you speak? I have to try and watch what you are doing and read quickly two different lines at the same time
Just I throw away just about 10 5amps bettery s a year it’s not worth it
Oh man... what a pity
Screw this
Please talk.
No thanks..
Why don't you talk??
そこまでして使用するバッテリー🔋でも無い❗劣化したバッテリー🔋高品質な互換バッテリーでも使ったら🎵😁貧乏過ぎて笑えた🎵爆発🔥😭💣しますよ❗充電器が壊れますよ🎵😁
No way will I pay for or do that shit to get a crap makita to work.
Makita is garbage