If you cut it with the hose cutters it’s a lot cleaner of a cut too. One thing I did find is that higher quality name brand Russell/earls/etc stainless line is much easier to work with then summit/jegs/Amazon etc. The stainless is wrapped a lot tighter and it cuts cleaner and hose assembly isn’t as much of a headache
Also, after the tape is on i crimp it with sheet metal scissors on two axis's and then cut it with the cut off wheel. The crimp tends to bend the braid inward for you.
For cutting braided stainless hose, use a cable cutter. I remove one handle and add a bar so that one side of cutter is held by a vice, that way you have one hand free to hold the hose. The cable cutter cuts clean with no debris and crimps the end down so you can easily slide it into a fitting. Place the fitting in a rod vice and push the hose into the fitting. Put a line up punch with oil on it into center of hose to push it out before putting the center part of the fitting in. We mainly use Earls hose, not sure if the Jegs hose will work the same way. I usually put a mark on the hose with a sharpie before I Assemble to make sure the hose isn’t pushed out of the nut.
One thing that could've been done to eliminate the need for the return line adapter is using a like 96 cherokee fuel pump instead it has a return line port and the tanks should be the same so it should drop in. Just needing a plug swap.
Once you get your tape on your stainless braided hose bring it past the end to fold it down almost like a taper put your nut on before you cut your line may help you out
Tips. Use a hose clamp instead of tape. Wrap some tin foil around the hose before taping it. You can then leave it on and slide it back as the fitting is pushed on then you can remove it. Find a bit of dowel or smaller hose that will push into the braided hose before cutting it, then cut around the braid without cutting through all the way pull the hose or dowel out and finish the cut with a blade. This will help keep steel particles out of the hose and out of places you don’t want it.
Never had trouble like that with braided line and I’ve plumbed a lot of boats with it. I do used the blue masking tape. Also any where that line my contact another hose or cable of any type make sure you insulate it. I usually use a pice of heater hose at the intersection and some zip ties around the heater hose. That stuff is like a saw blade over time, and there is a lot of vibration. Looks good. Like the hair, been down that road for 20 years now😀
Looking forward to the wiring, computer, and getting guages to work. Love this series. All the info is presented well and shows a good mix of big and small issues.
Hey LT the way I’ve always have cut that SS braided line is first wrapping it with plain old masking tape and using my chop saw to cut it. See you in Chandler this weekend
Loving this series LT. making me more and more confident about doing the swap. I have an older body style Cherokee with way less electronics so it may be alittle easier
Because it’s a dead head system the fuel line could have gone to a Y and fed both rails instead of using a cross over pipe. Blocking the other end off with a valve or pressure sensor.
I think it's pretty obvious that we're going to get a couple "obviously" out of you. So fret none, obviously we're all ready for it...OBVIOUSLY LOLOLOL
I start my conversion this month and this is definitely helping out. Still curious about the wiring. That’s what I’m worried about.... Also I have installed the GenRight 32 gallon fuel cell. My gas gauge doesn’t read properly.. I wondering if that will be fixed when I get the new harness or is that problem at the cluster.
Ohhh hey LT. What's your standard "garage" grab bag. The tool kit you bring with you when you are doing a drag evening or like this trip to the pro touring truck shootout thing. I wanna see whats in you bag! I generally bring enough to jack up the vehicle change a tire and change spark plugs and a standard autozone special tool kit and some oil. Been lucky so far I guess. Oh and jumper cables. Never know
I would love some advice on a transmission not shifting on a 98 Dodge Durango, looked at a lot of RUclips videos and still not shifting in overdrive after it gets warm
hotrodfuel.com has excellent products for fuel hose line and fittings. i did my fuel system and 40k tru cooler for 80e with it, easy to use, easy to cut, awesome product and ive never done it before.
Like the new dew, looks like 90% of your viewers now. Actually I can only speak for myself, but I'm rocking the 1 guard on my clippers look going on 5 years now. Just think of all the money you have spent on nice hair cuts over the years, now you can spend that money on race car parts and new tools!!!!
Interesting build, but the somewhat wide angle camera in the sorta selfie mode is hella creepy. How about using a tripod or something. Just a suggestion. Not trying to be funny. But there’s lots of video following your head around the shop and it’s not as interesting as watching the actual build and kind of disorientating. Maybe when you are explaining methods and so on, you could just put the camera on a tripod and sit somewhere near the build. Just a thought that’s hopefully constructive. Your fabrication skills and attention to detail are awesome.
What are you gunna do with venting?? I have a 70duster and i swapped a gen3 hemi... all new fuel system too, but with my stock tank vent i smell gas, mostly on warm days....no leaks, just the smell...Im still looking into a fix
The xj tank has a vent to a charcoal canister under the truck. He is probably going to hook it back to the canister. With your application if your tank is clean a shop can weld a vent tube on to your tank to a canister
The XJ has stock EFI so I would guess he is using the stock EVAP/Charcoal canister so no smell. Sounds like you need to go salvage yard hunting for a useable canister from whatever car.
I've loved these videos for the past 16 months, but somehow, with the new hairstyle.......the quality level just went through the roof. Solar powered.
Use a screw hose clamp on the hose as the marker. Cut staight down the clamp to cut stainless braid.
thats a good idea!
I've used a zip tie same concept.
If you cut it with the hose cutters it’s a lot cleaner of a cut too. One thing I did find is that higher quality name brand Russell/earls/etc stainless line is much easier to work with then summit/jegs/Amazon etc. The stainless is wrapped a lot tighter and it cuts cleaner and hose assembly isn’t as much of a headache
Also, after the tape is on i crimp it with sheet metal scissors on two axis's and then cut it with the cut off wheel. The crimp tends to bend the braid inward for you.
For cutting braided stainless hose, use a cable cutter. I remove one handle and add a bar so that one side of cutter is held by a vice, that way you have one hand free to hold the hose. The cable cutter cuts clean with no debris and crimps the end down so you can easily slide it into a fitting. Place the fitting in a rod vice and push the hose into the fitting. Put a line up punch with oil on it into center of hose to push it out before putting the center part of the fitting in. We mainly use Earls hose, not sure if the Jegs hose will work the same way. I usually put a mark on the hose with a sharpie before I Assemble to make sure the hose isn’t pushed out of the nut.
for a cheaper (about 1/2) check for a filter/regulator for an S-10 , same pressure as Corvette works on LS
Getting better as you get further along with the building of the vehicles. Love the summer time hair style, I do the military buzz cut.
One thing that could've been done to eliminate the need for the return line adapter is using a like 96 cherokee fuel pump instead it has a return line port and the tanks should be the same so it should drop in. Just needing a plug swap.
Once you get your tape on your stainless braided hose bring it past the end to fold it down almost like a taper put your nut on before you cut your line may help you out
Speaking from experience. I'd put a hat on while in that Arizona sun.
Maybe try heatshrink on the braided hose to leave on with a nice finished look?
I actually thought of that as well, but I didnt have any big enough to go over the -6
Tips.
Use a hose clamp instead of tape.
Wrap some tin foil around the hose before taping it. You can then leave it on and slide it back as the fitting is pushed on then you can remove it.
Find a bit of dowel or smaller hose that will push into the braided hose before cutting it, then cut around the braid without cutting through all the way pull the hose or dowel out and finish the cut with a blade.
This will help keep steel particles out of the hose and out of places you don’t want it.
Never had trouble like that with braided line and I’ve plumbed a lot of boats with it. I do used the blue masking tape. Also any where that line my contact another hose or cable of any type make sure you insulate it. I usually use a pice of heater hose at the intersection and some zip ties around the heater hose. That stuff is like a saw blade over time, and there is a lot of vibration. Looks good. Like the hair, been down that road for 20 years now😀
Looking forward to the wiring, computer, and getting guages to work. Love this series. All the info is presented well and shows a good mix of big and small issues.
The first fitting you put onto the steel braided hose is left hand thread. Try turning it counter clockwise to thread onto the hose.
+1 on braided steel hose. It's a pain to make, and once in the vehicle it acts like a file on anything it comes into contact with.
Hey LT the way I’ve always have cut that SS braided line is first wrapping it with plain old masking tape and using my chop saw to cut it. See you in Chandler this weekend
For braided hose I use duck tape and a summit brand hose cutter and it doesn’t flare at all
I see a video on this channel, I hit like. Obviously. Lol
107👍's up LT thanks for taking us all along with you
Clean and tidy. This thing is going to purr. Can’t wait to see it crawl over some real earth.
Loving this series LT. making me more and more confident about doing the swap. I have an older body style Cherokee with way less electronics so it may be alittle easier
Great job. I'm looking forward to see how you will make ALL gauges work on this XJ.
Nice build. Good info. Can’t wait for the wiring
Because it’s a dead head system the fuel line could have gone to a Y and fed both rails instead of using a cross over pipe.
Blocking the other end off with a valve or pressure sensor.
Be safe driving to Arizona my friend!
That fuel line may rub through that steel brake line where they are in direct contact. You might consider a grommet on the hose there.
they're close, but not in direct contact. I use a double zip tie trick to keep a little space in between
The best way to cut that line is a sharp chisel and to assemble the line use kool tools
Nice work LT
Appreciate it
I'd love to see a square body build
I'll be in Chandler! I'll buy you a beer if it makes sense to meet up!
Looks like you've done this a few times. 👍🤘
Nice progress sir!
I think it's pretty obvious that we're going to get a couple "obviously" out of you. So fret none, obviously we're all ready for it...OBVIOUSLY LOLOLOL
xj regulators are at 47psi.
Hey all you Brits watching, look at 05:25 it's an ACTUAL spanner.
😜
Look! 09:30 it's back!
I start my conversion this month and this is definitely helping out. Still curious about the wiring.
That’s what I’m worried about....
Also I have installed the GenRight 32 gallon fuel cell. My gas gauge doesn’t read properly.. I wondering if that will be fixed when I get the new harness or is that problem at the cluster.
The cheaper Corvette regulators will fail with any decent pump pressure. I use only Wix or Delco, they last.
Great! How about some black camo merch?
not a bad idea, i do like the look
Ohhh hey LT. What's your standard "garage" grab bag. The tool kit you bring with you when you are doing a drag evening or like this trip to the pro touring truck shootout thing. I wanna see whats in you bag! I generally bring enough to jack up the vehicle change a tire and change spark plugs and a standard autozone special tool kit and some oil. Been lucky so far I guess. Oh and jumper cables. Never know
Nice haircut!
So I noticed that the fuel pump in the tank on 97+xjs you need it. What if you have a 96 and under xj?
I'm not sure of the specifics on those to be honest
Nice!! Great job... :-)
I would love some advice on a transmission not shifting on a 98 Dodge Durango, looked at a lot of RUclips videos and still not shifting in overdrive after it gets warm
The valve body is probably sticking. My dad's Ram had the same issue. Ended up just replacing the transmission.
How much do you think the customer has in this build? Minus labor.
Holy crap was that the muffler at 15min?
Duh! Putt the nut on the hose before you cut it. Or am I completely misunderstanding your problem?
hotrodfuel.com has excellent products for fuel hose line and fittings. i did my fuel system and 40k tru cooler for 80e with it, easy to use, easy to cut, awesome product and ive never done it before.
Like the new dew, looks like 90% of your viewers now. Actually I can only speak for myself, but I'm rocking the 1 guard on my clippers look going on 5 years now. Just think of all the money you have spent on nice hair cuts over the years, now you can spend that money on race car parts and new tools!!!!
Don't kid yourself, you're going to still need a hat. Sunburn till you get some tan going. Speaking from experience.
so if i herd right you left the jeep fuel pump in???
correct, stock Jeep fuel pump with the Novak adapter, and a corvette filter/regulator
Interesting build, but the somewhat wide angle camera in the sorta selfie mode is hella creepy. How about using a tripod or something. Just a suggestion. Not trying to be funny. But there’s lots of video following your head around the shop and it’s not as interesting as watching the actual build and kind of disorientating. Maybe when you are explaining methods and so on, you could just put the camera on a tripod and sit somewhere near the build. Just a thought that’s hopefully constructive. Your fabrication skills and attention to detail are awesome.
What are you gunna do with venting??
I have a 70duster and i swapped a gen3 hemi... all new fuel system too, but with my stock tank vent i smell gas, mostly on warm days....no leaks, just the smell...Im still looking into a fix
The xj tank has a vent to a charcoal canister under the truck. He is probably going to hook it back to the canister. With your application if your tank is clean a shop can weld a vent tube on to your tank to a canister
The XJ has stock EFI so I would guess he is using the stock EVAP/Charcoal canister so no smell. Sounds like you need to go salvage yard hunting for a useable canister from whatever car.
Where can i contact you LT?
send me an email to tolmanperformance@gmail.com
Need to add a 2 step to ugly truck
yes, and a trans brake as well
😎👌👍✌🖖😁
another ls swap..
Get rid of that thing with a trunk and I will subscribe again