Checking my Keystone Trailer Brakes and Wheel Bearings
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2018
- Update - See full blog post including 3 videos - www.loveyourrv.com/installing...
A quick look at my trailer brakes and bearings. I decided to remove a wheel today and give them an inspection.
Rather than having the RV dealer repack and replace this fall I think I'm going to learn to do them myself. Tips and advice are welcome!
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*Update* - See full blog post including 3 videos - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-trailer-bearings-and-brakes-on-our-cougar-fifth-wheel/
I added bearing buddies to my motorcycle trailer when I did the bearings and the bearing buddie kit came with an added seal for the back to keep the grease in. I agree with the Timkin bearings. Not a hard job.
Something else to look at on my rig. Lol keep the videos coming.
The grease I always used was simply called Penzoil high temp wheel bearing grease. It came in a yellow tub so since I always hand packed them that wasn't a problem. Looks like you have things under control - proceed! LOL!
Great video, as always!! Thank you taking the time to help me learn :)
You're welcome. I'm always learning myself. Thankfully I have great viewers to help guide me. The comment section is a fountain of information. Cheers! Ray
I just did the breaks on our trailer. I got the whole kit from e trailer .com for all 4tires. Then I got all new bearings and did it all myself. They have a red bearing grease that they told me was a high heat works very good. Got it at Big Tex trailers. E -trailer break kit total came to $120.00 for 4 kits. Bearing kits came to $125.00 . So I saved a lot by doing it my self and was easy to do. Heading to Alabama Hills next week thanks to your video. Then Rockhound in NM in early February then on to Oliver Lee to see our Son & family in Alomogordo NM. Thanks for you videos they are very good we enjoy them. God Bless!
Thanks, I've ordered new Timken bearings, races and seals from the Summit Racing website. www.summitracing.com/ Looks like they have a warehouse in Canada so saves on shipping. Have fun out there in the desert. Cheers! Ray
The grease i use, which was recommended in the manual for my axles(Dexter), it the Lucas X-tra Heavey Duty Grease. I bought mine at Canadian Tire. It is great for high temp, extreme pressure, and cold weather. It is also a very highly compatible grease so if you don't know what kind of grease is in something you can use it and there is a very very slim chance you would have a negative reaction between the different greases.
I do prefer jacking up the rig near the u-straps as well, adjusting the brakes can be a little cumbersome though. When jacking up on the I beam it is best to have the truck attached and the front landing gear up. In my opinion, it's best to keep the truck attached to the fiver with the gear up when doing a wheel removal if possible.
You placed the jack in the right place. I was using Lucas Red Sticky grease but the last time I packed them I used Lucas heavy duty Green.
Thanks, the Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty looks like good stuff. Cheers, Ray
Saw a channel ATChaser that did a Trailer Bearing and brake replacement that looked very informative. Sure you have it down but it was helpful for me. Can’t wait to see your step by step one. Think it doesn’t look too bad and I like to know its was done right too. Oh and save some cash!!!! Thanks Ray
Thanks, I've found lots of videos on etrailer.com too that are good. I got my bearing races out today, so have all the part numbers for each of the pieces. Unfortunately for me, it looks like I have an oddball Dexter setup and no kits available that come complete so will have to source parts separately.
Ray i use synth wheel bearing grease, doesnt matter what brand its all the same any more.
I use the lucas green or red grease...Good stuff...
Sorry to hear about the truck being delayed 😩
After owning several trailers.. RV's, boats & utility and having used many different greases I am convinced brand means little as long as it is wheel bearing grease. Exception is with boat trailers that get submerged in water where a marine wheel bearing grease is in order. No need to over think it.
I always use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, much better heat resistance. Change out the seals while your at it and save all the old parts for emergency.
I changed over to disk brakes for my 08 Cougar, best mod I made. My 2003 Dodge Cummins wasn't adaptable to Air Brakes.
Best of luck
Ron & Liv
Thanks Ron
I always get a Lithium Complex NLGI No. 2 grease.
I use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease.
Hi temp bearing grease. Also Temkin bearings
I would check the thickness of the brake lining in about a year from now, better safe than sorry.
Hi Ray, I can relate to the waiting game with a new truck. In preparation for my summer road trip to your neck of the woods (beautiful BTW). I ordered a 2018 RAM 2500 back in April. I received it 2 weeks before my departure in August. Hope you get yours soon. When do you leave for the winter?
We usually leave in early November but are flexible, no real schedule. :)
I jack my trailer in the same spot, as long as it is under the leaf spring it is fine. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease in my trailer bearings. Last year I replaced all my bearings with Timken bearings, got them on Amazon. Make sure you replace the race along with the bearing. Amazon sells Timken bearing sets that come with the bearing and the matching race. A google search with your bearing number will let you know what set to buy.
Thanks!
One of the handiest ways I've run across for jacking a trailer up is on a trailer with hydraulic jacks lower the front down as far as it will go then put jack stands under the frame behind the axles then raise the front back up until all of the wheels are off the ground. Not sure if it would work on electric jacks (probably take way longer) and I'm sure no one would want to do it on a manual jack unless it's the only option.
Neat trick. :)
I noticed a grease fitting on the end of your axle. If so, then you have some type of "easy lube" bearings. You don't have to take the bearings off the axle to lube them. Just attach a grease gun to the fitting and pump until old grease comes out the front. (At least it's that way on my 2003 Ameri-camp 5th wheel.)
Yes, they are the Dexter EZ-Lube axles. Funny thing is the Dexter axle manual *still* recommends a bearing inspection and repack once a year even with the EZ-Lube. What I do is have them inspected and repacked every two years and on the in-between year pump a little fresh grease through while spinning the tire so as to not blow out the rear seal. So far it's worked out well, I haven't had any failures.
Morning Mr Ray! Enjoy your videos. What brand is your trolley jack? We need to replace ours.
It's a Motormaster brand from Canadian Tire - www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-garage-jack-2-5-ton-0091529p.html I've had it for around 20 years.
Is this where I put my suggestion for...
How to jack up the trailer?
- Under the oil pan
What type of bearings to use?
- same as muffler
What type of grease to use?
- bacon
Hey Hello, when you reattach those wire brake behind the backing plate with the wire coming from the axle, what exactly do you use for reataching them togetter? And do you weld them too? Thanks for your help.
Here is a section or a video I did detailing my brake and bearing change ruclips.net/video/8vZDXQhlK60/видео.html It shows how I attached the wires. Cheers Ray
Future Project - Grease Fitting on suspension? Or a Morryde? Do you have grease fittings on your suspension? If not that could be a future project for you.
They don't have grease fittings. Maybe down the road. I had all the shackles, bushings, bolts and the 2 Trail Air equalizers replaced 2 years ago so I'm good for a few more years.
That’s the stuff in the link you posted.
Sorry I see some one else had the same idea..
Any update on when you are getting the new truck assuming that is still the plan?
Yes, ordered around the end of June, the average time to delivery up here on Vancouver Island is 3 months but its running late due to a shortage of double tier rail cars used to transport trucks and SUVs. It's caused a backlog in the shipping. Its an industry-wide thing affecting many brands not just Ram. The latest delivery estimate is mid to late October.
We always have our solar panels on top of the RV in Australia is this the new way lol
haha, That's my panel I use as a remote ground panel. It gets mounted on a truck tool box when traveling. Since we are on full hookups for months, I have it stored under the rig. :)
Where can you get cross reference parts numbers for bearings? Big assumption here is that you can't find labels or info on the axle and the owners manual does not list a part number.
Well, I know that the axles are Dexter and they are rated 4400 lbs so that seems to help a lot. I also have the label off my axle with a bunch of numbers on it, plus the part numbers on the parts themselves. I guess if I didn't have that I'd need a micrometer and start measuring the diameter of the spindle so I could match up the right sized inner and outer bearings and seal.
If you do the bearings use timken bearings, and a standard bearing grease is all you need. When you put the new seal in just hammer it so its flush with the outside, not until it hits the bearing. And unless youve got hubcaps on your wheels then you dont have to pull the wheels. Just hammer the bearing cap off and pull the drum with the wheel
Thanks, I have Timken bearings, races and seals on the way. Cheers, Ray
This is what I used: www.amazon.com/pennzoil-7771-wheel-bearing-grease/dp/b000kkjrj0
Just a thought, if the tire shop is jacking up the trailer by the axle (a complete No No) they might have bent it and that is why you are seeing wear on the bearing. My trailer (2004 HitchHiker) never had a issue. Always serviced every 2 years by me.
Thanks, I'm on my 4th set of tires, we travel a lot :) And had them installed at 4 different shops, every one of them jacked under axle u-clamps. I don't have any abnormal tire wear so don't believe I have any bent axles. The bearings were pitted but not abnormally worn. Cheers, Ray
Timken or SKF (NOT Chinese,) bearings, as a couple others have already said, as well as a name-brand high-temp grease. Make sure you change the "races" with the bearings. You can knock the old ones out with a flat-nose punch. Usually, you can install the new race by tapping it in with the old race placed on top of the new one with the same orientation as it originally went in, (taper going towards the inside of the hub.) Once the new one is seated, CAREFULLY, (and you might want to use a brass drift punch,) knock the old race back out, (if it starts to re-seat in the hub -- sometimes they do, and sometimes they don't. . .) BTW -- if one bearing is bad, it's good practice to always change both. If a bearing is starting to pit or flake, chances are metal can work its way through to the opposing bearings. Bearings aren't that expensive vs. the piece of mind with doing it right!!
Awesome, great info, thanks very much, Ray
Two things you need for sure:
Jack Stand
High temp waterproof bearing grease
Did you clean those bearings before you shot the video? It is disturbing how little grease is on them.
Yes, I had wiped all the grease off things to inspect them. There was a plenty of grease so no issue there. I'll be sure to show the complete job when I go to do the others. Cheers, Ray
Hey Ray, Glad to see you didn't pull what I did, I attempted to use the ez lube axle to push grease through with a hand pump grease gun! I followed all directions in the Dexter manual, pumped slow and turned the wheel and stopped when clean grease came out. Well it all looked good but the inner seals on the drivers side gave way and grease started to drip and by the time I noticed it, my brakes were soaked and I had to replace the brakes. I purchased the new brake shoes in a kit with springs caps and nails, they were about $35.00 each so I bought four. I also went with new bearing seals. I used Valvoline multi-purpose GM red grease from Auto Zone. It's just a messy job but plug and play. I have a Cougar X-lite fifth wheel and also went up on the weight rating of my tires from 8 to 10 ply. While under the camper I noticed the roads of Alaska tore up the fiber like cloth they use over the wheel wells exposing the wood flooring. I took sheet metal and fabricated inner fenders to protect the wood, sealed it with silicone caulk and sprayed it with undercoating. All in all a complete over hall. Love to watch your videos!
Thanks for the word of caution. I've heard that can happen.
Sounds like a great mod to the wheel wells! Cheers, Ray
On your bearings use Timken or SKF, (US made). there is a big quality difference between US made and China bearings.
I AGREE. Good bearings can cost twice as much yet could last a lifetime with periodic repacking. Order up the inner and outer bearings plus the races (SKF) all around. Get them coming and do it yourself. Dont forget the seals!
Do you carry that jack with you? I have a larger one that is overkill and weighs a lot. I was wondering what people carried with them while on the road.
Yes, I keep it in a toolbox in the truck bed, there is also a bottle jack that is the OEM jack for our truck. I like the trolley jack as its quick. - Here is a list of the stuff that's my truck bed - www.loveyourrv.com/fifth-wheel-towing-carry-truck-bed/
Nice to have an 8-foot bed. :)
20T Stubby Bottle Jack!
You probably already know this but one of the most important parts of the job is to rub down all of your rotors with brake cleaner prior to reassembling! Grease or hand prints left on the rotors will cause hot spots and pulling when brakes are applied!
Thanks, I'll make sure to clean all the surfaces, Cheers! Ray
I ordered all my hardware for my axles from etrailer.com, excellent company to order from, and very helpful if you have any questions, I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease (product # 53201-0) for my wheel bearings.
Thanks, I had good luck with them when I ordered some landing jacks.
Allstar Timken ALL78241 Red Wheel Bearing Grease, and timken or skf bearings and races, and use a bearing packer. Be sure and research how to properly seat and torque your wheel bearings. I use to own a trucking company and we always did our own brake and wheel bearing work, i dont ever trust someone that has no interest in my equipment.
Cool, thanks for the recommendations. I feel the same way. It's a good thing to know how to do yourself. Cheers, Ray
Also get a can of break cleaner and spray the drum to clean it so there is no oil, grease or even finger prints on it
Good tip, thanks.
Your brake magnets have four wear indicator holes, one at each end. Your magnet only had two visible, I wouldn't go long before changing them.
Thanks, I can see three, but the left is barely there and the top is one gone, so will get them changed soon,, thanks.
Dexter Axles can be lubed through the grease fittings. No need to take it apart. I do it about every 5,000 miles.
Thanks, yes I have the EZ-lube and will occasionally squirt a bit of grease in. However, that doesn't mean the bearings, spindle, and brakes, etc. don't need to be periodically visually inspected. The Dexter manual recommends once a year. I usually stretch it to every two years. At that time you may as well manually repack as everything is apart. Cheers, Ray
I full time in my RV but I don't think I'll be taking the axles apart - I grease them as much as I can.
If you just use the fittings to lube your bearings you don't get the chance to inspect the brake pads and the condition of the bearings.... When we take our trailer out we travel across country...We bought a used trailer in Ontario when we got to Quebec we broke a leaf spring on a Sunday!!!! Called CAA the person only spoke French!!! We were very lucky We were able to stop at a roadside pit stop area the cleaner was there and spoke English and spoke to CAA for us..the lesson is when your in school don't mess around in French class!!!! We got new leaf springs the following day continuing to the trans Labrador highway lots of gravel roads!!! Crossed the ferry to Newfoundland did gros morne park drove to St.John's where we noticed our inside of the tires were bald!!!! We bent the axle.... We had to wait a few days to get it into a shop but worth it they did a fantastic job fixing it and never had a problem with the trailer after. The plus we partied on George Street seen the Cabot tower hiked the trails and went to cape spare...Great time. From there we traveled to British Columbia settled in Calgary Alberta. The next year we went back to Ontario and traveled back to Victoria then back to Calgary... My advise every spring repack your bearings inspect every part of that axle!!!!! When this lock down is over and Covid is controlled we are moving to Nova Scotia !!!!! Then we will explore the east!!!!
Hey Ray- How many miles you figure you put on between bearing inspections?? BTW- Dexter axles recommends this: www.etrailer.com/p-L11465.html
I'd say somewhere between 8-10K I found this link, looks like Dexter has their own grease - www.fayettedistribution.com/Dexter-Axle-Wheel-Bearing-Grease-p/088-012-00.htm
looks very close to this one I can get locally - www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/lucas-red-tacky-grease-cartridge-14-oz-0280406p.html
Hi Ray. I didn’t see a jack stand? Using a stealth jack stand?
Also, I don’t know what bearings are available in BC but I have found SKF to be best quality. I recommend them over oriental made. Just a better bearing.
Nice video..
Doug
I figure the other tire is like a jack stand just in case the trolly jack fails. Like when you use a trailer aid ramp to change tires.
www.rvpartsexpress.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x600/e8fc135657c3e4a2aff16b85041b627c/t/r/traileraid.jpg Cheers, Ray
The other tire would hold that trailer up if the jack failed no problem...
I don't have anything to add other than what has already been said, get good quality bearings and use a synthetic high temp grease. What I'm curious about is why is your truck not going to be there until the end of October, didn't you order it in June?
Yes, around the end of June, the average time to delivery up here on Vancouver Island is 3 months but its running late due to a shortage of double tier rail cars used to transport trucks and SUVs. It's caused a backlog in the shipping. Its an industry-wide thing affecting many brands not just Ram. The latest delivery estimate is mid to late October.
Maybe. I have a feeling it's more about the NAFTA agreement. Either way, they'll get it worked out.
Dirt Road Sailing www.freep.com/story/money/cars/chrysler/2018/07/21/ram-trucks-gibraltar-trade-center/808814002/
The dealership jacks under The equalizers? Wow if that shifts it's going to be a disaster! I hope they actually don't do that? It's like playing Jenga one wrong move and it's all over.
I personally watched a tire shop jack my trailer up under the equalizer. Guess they valued speed over safety.
I’m shocked that your seal is in new condition. When I use the seal puller my seals are totally destroyed. I have to use a hammer violently on the seal puller handle to get the seals out. I have a suspicion I’m doing it wrong.
I read about this method on a boating forum. Thought I'd try it since I knew I was going to be replacing my bearings and seals anyway. I pulled everything off then put the hub back on then the washer and nut on a few turns. Then I used the hub like a slide hammer. The inner bearing and rear seal are left loose on the spindle. Worked well.
The Jayco manual says never jack using the axle, just the frame.
Can’t go wrong with Angie looking over your shoulder.....😋👀🐶
That's for sure. Got to respect the wisdom of the beagle! :)
I always used "high Heat" grease on trailers, However, I have since been informed that High Heat grease will not lubricate unless it reached a high temp. I now don't know what exactly to use. I plan to research it before I have to grease my wheels again. I could just call my brother who is a mechanic, but I wouldn't want him to know he knows something I don't - LOL
Depending on how cold you're talking there really isn't a great grease that will do well in very cold and very hot. That being said there are greases that perform well at low temps, and because of the friction with bearing spinning the grease heats up fairly quickly. I recommend Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease.
@@trentond83
I know a lot of people like the Red & Tacky but the one you mentioned is probably good too. Can't go wrong with Lucas.
Yes Lucas makes great stuff! I used to use Red & Tacky and I only switched to the X-tra heavy duty because it is a Polyurea base instead of lithium. The polyurea is compatible with a wide range of other greases so if you need grease some place and don't know what is currently in there it is a safer choice to use than lithium. Combining greases isn't a great idea to begin with but at least i know with the polyurea base that there is a very slim chance of a negative reaction.
@@trentond83
I see. I thought Lithium based was better or more recommended so I'll do some research.
New bearings new races, I assume you will change both at the same time.
Yes, if you see wear on the bearing, you assume the race (or cup) will be worn also. Change in sets.
Yes, since the rig is over 7 years old I'd like to swap them all out. I saw only 2 bearings and rear seal. Are the races pressed into the hub I missed? Some kits seem to show them and others don't.
@@LoveYourRV yes the race is pressed into the hub. You drive them out with a punch, however you need a race driver set to reinstall the new races without damage.
Oh, OK I saw a video where the races get hammered out with a punch.
Thanks, will be worth the cost compared to having to pay a shop to do it. :)
Hi Ray, first off make sure you get high quality domestic or Japanese bearings, they'll be quite a bit more expensive then the cheap Chinese ones but will last many years. Nothing worse then having a bearing go out on and take out an axle when you're out in the middle of no where or on a busy highway. You can pick up high quality bearings and seals at most industrial supply places and they'll be able to confirm the bearing quality for you as their customers can't afford to use low quality bearings for the sake of saving a few dollars. I would be apprehensive about ordering bearings online for fear of not being able to actually speak to someone to confirm the bearing quality. I've seen more trailer accidents caused by wheel bearing failures than by break issues.
As far as axle grease go's, just use a high quality axle grease and buy an extra tube as you shouldn't mix greases (ideally)
It also looks like you have Dexter EZ - Lube axels which are awesome as they don't have to be disassembled to repack the bearings, ruclips.net/video/XT0RKDGgDm8/видео.html. You'll also be able to repack all 4 of these bearings yearly in about 5 minutes.
Great video, keep them coming.
Thanks, there are a few trailer shops around here, lots of boating in this neck of the woods, so will check them out. Cheers, Ray
Lucas red grease
Thanks, looks like they carry that at the Canadian tire down the street if this is the stuff? - www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/lucas-red-tacky-grease-cartridge-14-oz-0280406p.html
Yup. That bearing grease should work well for you. If you have any info on your axles you could check with the manufacturer to make sure.
They are Dexter EZ-Lube D44 axles 4400 lbs rating I found this page - www.fayettedistribution.com/Dexter-Axle-Wheel-Bearing-Grease-p/088-012-00.htm looks a lot the same.
Go with this stuff it is even better www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/lucas-x-tra-heavy-duty-grease-0280407p.html#srp
Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty is also available at Canadian Tire, it is a polyurea based grease and compatible with many other greases and applications.
Lucas High Temp Red bearing grease and use Timken bearings...no China Bearings!
Thanks, just ordered new Timken bearings and seals. Cheers, Ray
Hey Ray Just my opinion but no more than that stuff cost I would replace it all. those shoes are pretty worn and the bearings look loose but they don't really have any grease that I see. Ahh reason being that you travel a lot down hills and stuff and those shoes are really thin for that. your safety is really worth more than a few dollars. I work on cars a good bit and I have seen shoes like that just break apart and then you got metal on metal. changing the races for those bearings is really pretty simple with a punch and then use the old ones to drive the new ones in with and pack the bearings real good and you are done. shoot it already tore some what apart. so move on with the repair.. in my honest opinion . CHEERS.
Thanks for the advice Charles, I'll see what kind of pricing I can get on the new brake assemblies up here on Canada. May have to wait until I get down south this fall to save ourselves some bucks. The good thing is our new Ram 3500 truck we are getting has an excellent exhaust brake built in and towing capacity of 17,000 lbs and our rig is under 10,000 lbs. so should be pretty safe. Cheers Ray
Yea I been waiting on seeing that truck. I had fogotten there for a min.. But not sure on pricing up there but like you said not bad down here. Anyway have a safe trip and Cheers to y'all.
Nothing special about the grease. If that bearing is pitted you will also need to replace the race. You should be able to drive the old one out with a pin drive and a stout hammer.
They must be Chinese bearings to wear like that.
Yes, all the parts had Made in China on them.
Ben Dixon I concur, either that, or the bearings were not serviced properly the last couple times.
Im sure if Ray does this job himself, after seeing his attention to detail, that it will get good bearings and be done correctly.
Well...do not blame the Chinese as many countries can produce cheaply made bearings. What is a real shame are those repair shops that use them by choice. Or those distributors that repackage under their own label so you never quite know what you are getting.