I'm of the mindset that your farm soil types will dictate tillage, no-till, or strip-till. No two fields or farms are the same. I personally think a moldboard plow every ten years has a benefit but I have been wrong before.
Ever field is different, no till can work on all soil, it's the making money through the transition that can be the challenge, Our soil up here is difficult, it gets compacted faster than it can build structure in a row crop system. Now I have a field that I might plow up to start over and clean it up, but this time get it into hay and small grajns.
I am Pro Cultivating. I believe that it does a lot for the Soils, especially in years with Excess/Plenty of Moisture. Also helps with reducing Herbicide Resistance, you can add a Liquid Kit to add some Biologicals or Liquid Nitrogen if you do choose. There is a Nice Red Wetherell MFG 1700 Single Sweep, No-Reduced Till Cultivator that is currently going for Auction on TractorHouse. A Extremely Clean/Nice Shedded Unit 12 Row 30” Model that is located in Iowa, current Bid is at $100.00 . It is similar to a Buffalo, Hiniker, Orthman models. They are built well in my opinion.
I remember John Deere running a add that said weeds have a hard time competing with iron. And of course a picture of a set of 8 row cultivators. I've always chuckled about that and but it is true.
Using chemicals is actually "tillage", or functionally the same as tillage, when considering trying to keep the worms and beneficial fungus alive. A good crop of worms is like having half a dozen cows grazing per acre in terms of the fertilizer they add without considering the other underground activities they provide.
Very challenging year for beans in WI also. Planted early with full treatment means seed cost was the same as the corn acres, then three spray passes, all for the hope of salvaging a crop of 35-40 bushel beans. Definitely need to rethink the program, go back to narrower rows is one thing I’m considering.
Good points, I will be moving to some corn on corn acres to reduce beans. Corn I can easily use less chemicals, do better cover crops, more bad weather tolerant
Fall burn down is key... We are all no-till. We are actually using less chemical now than 10 years ago. We have basically no weeds come spring. Might have to burn down a patch or two right before planting. Spray 21-25 days after planting, clean the rest of the year. Before we started spraying in the fall we were spraying 3 times in season.. It made a huge difference.
My bean recipe is as follows: rye cover, plant green when heads are showing, roller crimp it the next day (this gets about 90% kill), and do a burndown/cleanup spray 2-3 weeks after planting. Cleanest beans ever here.
Thank you for sharing that. I would like to get rye into the rotation. I believe it can work here the only problem is for us by the time the winter I would be heading out for a good crimp we would be at the tail end of our planting season.
I remember how much cultivating seems to make corn grow a foot overnight. For a while I did some organic farming for some people. After planting I made at least two passes with a rotary hoe and probably three passes with a heavy John Deere cultivator. This was organic soybeans. By the time I was making the final pass I could move at a pretty fast pace. I usually set the shovels farther away from the plants. I wonder how well it would work if you set up a single shank on a tool bar with a fourteen inch sweep. It seems like you could shear a heck of a lot weeds out and maybe even set up a seed broadcaster right on the cultivator to interseed the cover crop.
Mid summer tillage increases ergs (energy released per gram of soil) that is what makes the row crop take off. If your gonna do tillage, do it mid summer when the Temps are up
@@growthefarmup2606 my eventual goal is to do zero. What I haven't had very good luck with is hay seedlings. Teff grass is something that doesn't work well in notill but if I can figure out how to do that no till I'll try it. And like John said in another video. Nobody wants to do hay on bumpy ground.
@@growthefarmup2606 is it the oxygen that's introduced? I always thought it was because we were moving the nitrogen around and it became available to the corn. At the time I was doing the organic work, my personal crops were not organic. I no till drilled my beans in seven inch rows and it was not hard to get 60 to 70 bushels, double what the organic soybeans did. This was 25 years ago. I don't do beans anymore. I can't get anyone to cut them. The combines are too big to get into my fields plus we are surrounded by state land and over populated with Michigan white tail deer. I've been even tempted to make two passes with the corn plant on the out rows of corn to make a corn fence to help deter them and make it harder enter the field.
My grandpa always said cultivate through a drought. Herman Warsaw gave cultivating a lot of credit for his huge corn yields. I would be curious about an Anhydrous knife to row crop rip the tight soils, Also wonder about row crop crimping covers and a couple stages of covers vs many row crop passes
Heck yeah, did you bring your over with you? I could just run over and borrow it for a day. Have seen things as simple as a 12volt atv spreader on each row.
Good point, oddly enough I have some white mold around me, but I haven't sprayed fungicide in a few years now. The fields with it just get worse and they are using more fungicide each bean year
Ha nope, I don't picture a two-wheel drive, even a large frame like that being able to lift this cultivator. Also extractor uses is so much less fuel, and with this transmission I can speed up and slow down so fast and easy with a powershift you wouldn't you get tired of shifting
Cultivating all of it. There was enough escapes that if I went in to spray I would spray whole field like I cultivated whole field. Maybe I should have said it better
I don't care for all the tillage I do with organic crop production but the wider margins allow me to play with more diverse crop rotations and cover crops and manure.
Ha! I don't have plans to be certified organic. Hopefully, i can learn a few things about what a modern organic guy is doing to reduce some of my input cost and / or move forward with the soil,
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I love it....keep cultivating
Thanks.
I'm of the mindset that your farm soil types will dictate tillage, no-till, or strip-till. No two fields or farms are the same. I personally think a moldboard plow every ten years has a benefit but I have been wrong before.
Ever field is different, no till can work on all soil, it's the making money through the transition that can be the challenge, Our soil up here is difficult, it gets compacted faster than it can build structure in a row crop system.
Now I have a field that I might plow up to start over and clean it up, but this time get it into hay and small grajns.
My non gmo soybeans this year , one pass flexstar and clethodim , one pass row crop cultivator, beams are clean.
Good to hear. That's what I used on my non-GMO last year innseason but I also had a good burn down with pre emerge, and they were still dirty
I am Pro Cultivating. I believe that it does a lot for the Soils, especially in years with Excess/Plenty of Moisture. Also helps with reducing Herbicide Resistance, you can add a Liquid Kit to add some Biologicals or Liquid Nitrogen if you do choose.
There is a Nice Red Wetherell MFG 1700 Single Sweep, No-Reduced Till Cultivator that is currently going for Auction on TractorHouse. A Extremely Clean/Nice Shedded Unit 12 Row 30” Model that is located in Iowa, current Bid is at $100.00 .
It is similar to a Buffalo, Hiniker, Orthman models. They are built well in my opinion.
Thanks
Wow, if we would do that here we couldn’t get anyone to combine. Way too many rocks. Every soybean acre around hear gets a roller over it.
The ruts give a place for the rocks to go.
A wife that loves decorating with rock helps.
Here I thought maybe its a carbon release trial. Next thing is a weed zapper.
Ha, no zapper yet.
I remember John Deere running a add that said weeds have a hard time competing with iron. And of course a picture of a set of 8 row cultivators. I've always chuckled about that and but it is true.
Using chemicals is actually "tillage", or functionally the same as tillage, when considering trying to keep the worms and beneficial fungus alive. A good crop of worms is like having half a dozen cows grazing per acre in terms of the fertilizer they add without considering the other underground activities they provide.
Very challenging year for beans in WI also. Planted early with full treatment means seed cost was the same as the corn acres, then three spray passes, all for the hope of salvaging a crop of 35-40 bushel beans. Definitely need to rethink the program, go back to narrower rows is one thing I’m considering.
Good points,
I will be moving to some corn on corn acres to reduce beans. Corn I can easily use less chemicals, do better cover crops, more bad weather tolerant
Fall burn down is key... We are all no-till. We are actually using less chemical now than 10 years ago. We have basically no weeds come spring. Might have to burn down a patch or two right before planting. Spray 21-25 days after planting, clean the rest of the year. Before we started spraying in the fall we were spraying 3 times in season.. It made a huge difference.
Hmm, interesting, most of the time I don't have much fall activity to spray,
Are you burning anything down in the fall or a residual?
Sweet farms where do you farm?
I foresee a "Weed Zapper" in your future 💥⚡️
My bean recipe is as follows: rye cover, plant green when heads are showing, roller crimp it the next day (this gets about 90% kill), and do a burndown/cleanup spray 2-3 weeks after planting. Cleanest beans ever here.
Thank you for sharing that. I would like to get rye into the rotation.
I believe it can work here the only problem is for us by the time the winter I would be heading out for a good crimp we would be at the tail end of our planting season.
I remember how much cultivating seems to make corn grow a foot overnight. For a while I did some organic farming for some people. After planting I made at least two passes with a rotary hoe and probably three passes with a heavy John Deere cultivator. This was organic soybeans. By the time I was making the final pass I could move at a pretty fast pace. I usually set the shovels farther away from the plants. I wonder how well it would work if you set up a single shank on a tool bar with a fourteen inch sweep. It seems like you could shear a heck of a lot weeds out and maybe even set up a seed broadcaster right on the cultivator to interseed the cover crop.
Mid summer tillage increases ergs (energy released per gram of soil) that is what makes the row crop take off. If your gonna do tillage, do it mid summer when the Temps are up
@@growthefarmup2606 my eventual goal is to do zero. What I haven't had very good luck with is hay seedlings. Teff grass is something that doesn't work well in notill but if I can figure out how to do that no till I'll try it. And like John said in another video. Nobody wants to do hay on bumpy ground.
@@growthefarmup2606 is it the oxygen that's introduced? I always thought it was because we were moving the nitrogen around and it became available to the corn. At the time I was doing the organic work, my personal crops were not organic. I no till drilled my beans in seven inch rows and it was not hard to get 60 to 70 bushels, double what the organic soybeans did. This was 25 years ago. I don't do beans anymore. I can't get anyone to cut them. The combines are too big to get into my fields plus we are surrounded by state land and over populated with Michigan white tail deer. I've been even tempted to make two passes with the corn plant on the out rows of corn to make a corn fence to help deter them and make it harder enter the field.
My grandpa always said cultivate through a drought.
Herman Warsaw gave cultivating a lot of credit for his huge corn yields.
I would be curious about an Anhydrous knife to row crop rip the tight soils,
Also wonder about row crop crimping covers and a couple stages of covers vs many row crop passes
This would be a perfect machine to put on a seed box and seed the covercrop in 1 pass
Heck yeah, did you bring your over with you? I could just run over and borrow it for a day.
Have seen things as simple as a 12volt atv spreader on each row.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Just jump in the Massey and give it the beans
@@AlextheDutchDairyfarmer 12 hrs a day driving should be 5 days there!
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 😂😂 And after that to realize that I don't have one
You never cease to amaze me
That's what she said... ha!
Thanks, have to keep learning and moving forward if I want to make quality food for you!
I used to rotary hoe both corn and beans at least once before I started to cultivate. Would cultivate at least twice was best thing a guy could do .
I’m a disabled vet, I remember when I was in grade school,my dad went from 4 row front to 6 row back cultivation,awesome work
Thank you for your service. Sorry that you were injured. Grateful for your actions
Was it on an old Farmall or a John Deere or Allis Chalmers?
I have always wondered if a light cultivation in beans would help with white mold as it would take out the mushroom type spores that cause white mold
Excellent thought. Back in the day, we planted higher populations and hit them twice with the cultivator and didn't even know white mold was a thing.
Good point, oddly enough I have some white mold around me, but I haven't sprayed fungicide in a few years now. The fields with it just get worse and they are using more fungicide each bean year
I lose sleep with this every year , notill and chemical? Or tillage no chemical?
You’ve Got to use all the tools in the toolbox.
Yeeeehaw love me them buffalo cultivators.
This one is going back, no rock protection, I already have to weld a couple spots. Have a big hiniker lined up for next year..
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 what do you mean rock protection?
@ryecarlson7867 there is no spring trip, shanks are rigid, also very little vertical travel to the row unit. Hit a rock and shear pins or tear steel.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 mine has a channel that allows the unit to pivot back when it hits something too big without breaking the bolt.
I'd be curious to see the Hinicker!
Don't see many people notilling their garden every year. Why?
Ha! Zero till I think would be almost impossible? Maybe in 15 years when my soil is rich and healthy?!
Now I bet you wish you had a 4640 to run on a rowcrop cultivator.
Ha nope, I don't picture a two-wheel drive, even a large frame like that being able to lift this cultivator.
Also extractor uses is so much less fuel, and with this transmission I can speed up and slow down so fast and easy with a powershift you wouldn't you get tired of shifting
If your only cultivating in certain spots but going into the field anyways why not just spot spray the areas that need it ?
Cultivating all of it. There was enough escapes that if I went in to spray I would spray whole field like I cultivated whole field. Maybe I should have said it better
Welcome to the dark side 😎
I don't care for all the tillage I do with organic crop production but the wider margins allow me to play with more diverse crop rotations and cover crops and manure.
Ha! I don't have plans to be certified organic. Hopefully, i can learn a few things about what a modern organic guy is doing to reduce some of my input cost and / or move forward with the soil,
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 what model Hiniker do you have lined up for next year?