Thanks for the video. So many people folks make video's and have so much BS in them I can't sit through it. You did a super job. Not a lot of 'you knows' and uh's. Great job.
Great tutorial...just getting into re-loading 9mm. I have been re-loading .45cal for the Henry rifle using RCBS single stage press...works great. Ammo tough to get now in 2020...BUT I got enough stuff to do the .45 cal....thanks for the video !
Good video. I switched to wet tumbling and what a difference. It's definitely the way to go. Brass and primer pockets come out looking like new. I built my own out of scrap parts and an old motor. It took a couple of months because I only worked on it on weekends but it was a fun project and I can tumble about 750 cases at once. If you have the time and tools it's a great project.
When I started hand loading ammo 3 or 4 years ago, my friends laughed at me for going through the trouble of hand loading such an inexpensive caliber. _For some reason, they aren't laughing anymore._ 🙄 *BTW?* I prefer wet tumbling, (using Dawn soap and stainless media.) I've never tried dry tumbling, but this is working great so I'll stick with it. Thanks for the video Ed!
Thank you, reloading really pays its dividends and saves you $ when you load larger rounds, at $9 a box for 9mm there is not much to save but go ahead a reload, when the liberals take over again 9mm will probably hit $40 for a box of 50 rounds. LOL
this video was great. ty so much. I reloaded before 1975 and now retired. going to go back and make my buckit come true with a few good years of shooting pesky tin cans
great video. ty. I use to reload and shoot back in the 70's. then work said I need to work 24 hours a day. hmmmmm. anyway retired now and going to get back to my "bucket" project. got a rcbs and ready to load.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Carbon Copy interesting title( carbon (copy) man I wanted to tell you that your situation sounds like mine. Life has a lot of parallels associated with our age and growing up in our time. I’m( refsmiliarizing) myself with my old equipment its easier the second time around. I’ve found stuff that I forgot I have. FOR THE LOVE OF SHOOTING! Have a great life and happy shooting!
Great video. I have noticed that most videos seem to overlook the fact that us beginners are exactly that, beginning. Your detailed instructions are a welcomed sight. What I liked the most was the detailed instructions on adjusting the dies.
Thanks Big Ed. Just picked up die's today for my 9mm. hand loading food for another one of my children. ha ha. I love to load my own load's, by the book though. Shoot strait bro, again great show's!
Great video for a newb.. just bought an older Hornady lnl ap .. still need a few things before I can start.. plan on the 9mm first before getting into rifle rounds.
This was a good video thanks for breaking it down. I'm in the process of doing research on press. This helped me out more on the press and how to set it up once I get mine. Now I do have a question for you. 1. if you have a certain kind of press can you use any kind of die from different venders? 2. I have two 9mm since I will be shooting paper targets and stuff. The round i want are the 115 one. Now if i start making the 115 i should be able to shot them from either one right? I really don't want to have different load for each gun. I would like a generic one for both guns. Hopefully that makes sense.
I tumble for 2 hrs so I clean the inside of the case to. I also found it much easier to leave the old primer in when I tumble so when I decap it there's no crap in the primer pocket.
Good video. I'd really encourage anyone starting out to go "wet tumble" with SS pins versus the vibratory tumbler. No clogged primer holes. No need to scrape the primer pockets. The cases look brand new...inside and out.
You can also clean them with a home made liquid tumbler with stainless steel "pins" which are actually .042" chunks of Stainless steel wire. That cleans primer holes very nicely also. My whole rig cost me about $12.
Great video. Wish I saw this before I fist started reloading. One comment: do you use a case gauge at all? Or at least the "plunk" test? I use a Dillon gauge and find 1 slightly out of spec round per 250-300, though for whatever reason they always pass the plunk test LOL.
I will plunk test every once and a while, I never use a case gauge for 9mm, I have never had any problems with 9mm easy round to reload. Forgiving since it's tapered.
Hey new reloaders, some more tips from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is almost everything I know. If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice. If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of 1.5 hours for a hundred rounds for a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes cleaning, drying, set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. (spend that cash) ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. Notice all the lights here. And a solid looking bench. Nice. ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals. There is a case length specification, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass can be reloaded. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash. Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket. ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry. Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round. Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money) NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured. ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out. Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin') Many powder manufacturers list their loads online. Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefor crimp may vary. This can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. 38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.
That center stem you turned down is the bullet seater not the crimp. The main body is the crimp. That center pin will only seat the bullet deaper by turning it down.
After you sized and decapped, I was waiting for you to measure the diameter across the case mouth which is specified in the loading manual as a max. of .381 For my RCBS sizing die (three die set) the sizing cavity is tapered, so if I run the shell holder flush with the bottom of the die, the case runs too deep in the die making the mouth opening .372 ...then as I seat the bullet, the bullet creates a bulge in the case, causing the diameter in the case (below the bulge) to be smaller then the .381 diameter in the manual. When I shoot the round, I see gas pressure blow-back (black soot) down the length of the case ..I guess its do to the gap between the small case diameter vs. the chamber diameter of the barrel. I noticed the same bulge in your finished rounds... any ideas? Thanks...
Hello,I am brand new to reloading and have a question. How many times can 9mm brass be fired? I know there are all kinds of varibles but what is the average?
Does anyone ever use the little scooper? I've never used one or apparently know how. It never weighs correctly or near as consistently as the powder thrower. Different powder (flake, ball, extruded) all have different sizes and throw charges differently. Is the dipper for a certain type of powder or more of a paper weight?
So I noticed in one of my load books that for different billets the OAL changed depending on each bullet. So is that just the minimum length for that bullet? If I wanted I can make it the max length of 9mm or less as long as I’m not bigger than the 1.169? Sorry I’m new to reloading so I’m just trying to figure that out.
@@biged7175 okay. I run 115 grain blazer brass fmj all the time for range ammo and my Glock loves it. I measured and the typical OAL length for that bullet is 1.15. I plan on loading 115gr fmj for my first bullets so now I just need to gather some load data so I can set my charges
@@basketcas3717 For something simple like 9mm i'd stick with 115's or 124's and buy 1,000 projectiles once prices come down or you can find some a descent prices.
I am brand new to reloading and have a question. I have reloaded a small batch to test and shot them yesterday. They did just fine. My question is on the C.O.A.L. . The hornady manual says the COAL for a 115 full metal jacket round nose is 1.100. The Nosler reloading says 1.169 for the same bullet. Can someone explain why they are different. Thanks for any help
Ed, could you do a video on .380 loading ? I am having problems. I loaded 50 and only 20 would pass the Wilson case checker tool. have no idea why. the cases are to fat where done. but if I use my barrel out of my glock 42 380. they will load ????????????????
I'm not a 380 fan just go with 9mm much better and less $$$, reloading 9mm should be similar to 380, what kinds of dies are you using, I would for get the wilson tool for pistol ammo as long as they work in your g43 I would run 'm
Carbon Copy I seem to have the same issue but my sig p238 still eats them up with no issue as long as they cycle threw your weapon use them Just pay attention for misfires
Good video, You dont need to lube pistol case with Carbide Dies . RIFLE case is a MUST lube. WIN 231 or HP-38 work GREAT on 9mm. PS Love your camera shots
Why did I give my powder charger away !? I individually weight each round now ; what ever the caliber. BTW, if you drop the charge handle say 10 times (into the scale-collector pan) the weight of the sum of the 10 ea charges should = 10X the "target" charge. Better sampling resolution on the power charger adjustment ; the physical shape of the powder type you are using will affect how your powder charger "meters" too. Head-spacing on the 9mm is something worth mentioning.
I'll only weight each charge for precision rifle rounds. For pistol rounds RCBS powder drop really works great even with all the powders I use still reloading this way to this day. For common pistol rounds my spreads are very low. Good call on head spacing.
Bob Chiz I have never had great luck seating the bullet and crimping with the same die/step/stroke, I always use the seating die then finish with the crimp die. Especially with hand guns you want a good crimp, with pistols when the cartage feeds that bullet will be pushed by the feed ramp back into the case. Revolvers do to heavier recoil, bullets can jump week crimps. I would use all four dies to make sure your making the best ammo you can.
Bob Chiz For my Remington 700 308 that's built as a long range target rifle, I don't use any crimp, I single load or use the magazine system gingerly. For my AR-15's and AK-15 I crimp since the rounds are being slammed into the feed ramps by bolts.ruclips.net/p/PLBQNtxwpkO8x-uXb4tPdXPD6EsExsqf-J ruclips.net/p/PLBQNtxwpkO8yNlJKk3Y6F0sYa33w8uj0D
I bought this Hodgdon HS-6 at Chester's on Long Island NY, most of the big stores online are out of powder, gunbroker has powder listed. Also local stores have some powder you might have to pay $40+ a lbs
I think I found the problem with 380's I have been makeing. It I seat the bullet a small amount to deep, but still in specs, they bulge the shell. But I did as one person sugested and they to load them in glock. and they loaded fine. so problem fixed. ty everone
PE J In my experience it does not matter, I have loads 10,000 9mm rounds the always go bang except for powder less rounds when I squib myself. I'm not bench resting 9mm.
Спорт
Thanks for the video. So many people folks make video's and have so much BS in them I can't sit through it. You did a super job. Not a lot of 'you knows' and uh's. Great job.
Thank you!
Great tutorial...just getting into re-loading 9mm. I have been re-loading .45cal for the Henry rifle using RCBS single stage press...works great. Ammo tough to get now in 2020...BUT I got enough stuff to do the .45 cal....thanks for the video !
Good video. I switched to wet tumbling and what a difference. It's definitely the way to go. Brass and primer pockets come out looking like new. I built my own out of scrap parts and an old motor. It took a couple of months because I only worked on it on weekends but it was a fun project and I can tumble about 750 cases at once. If you have the time and tools it's a great project.
Very good video, thanks Big Ed
8 years ago and still a great explained video..thanx🤙🤙
Great video....thanks for sharing it with us newbies...Like the way you explain each step...thank you
Thank you. Glad I could help
Very helpful and clear step by step explanations. I really appreciate this video sir.
When I started hand loading ammo 3 or 4 years ago, my friends laughed at me for going through the trouble of hand loading such an inexpensive caliber. _For some reason, they aren't laughing anymore._ 🙄
*BTW?* I prefer wet tumbling, (using Dawn soap and stainless media.) I've never tried dry tumbling, but this is working great so I'll stick with it. Thanks for the video Ed!
You got it Russ and good for you.
Great video. Appreciate the information.
Thank you.
This video really helped me! Just starting out and you explained the process and steps in a way that was easy to follow. Thanks so much 🙂🇺🇸👏👏
Georgia, your welcome, glad I could help.
Great video Big Ed!. I'm going to get into this and do my research.
Thank you, reloading really pays its dividends and saves you $ when you load larger rounds, at $9 a box for 9mm there is not much to save but go ahead a reload, when the liberals take over again 9mm will probably hit $40 for a box of 50 rounds. LOL
Good stuff, thanks again.
this video was great. ty so much. I reloaded before 1975 and now retired. going to go back and make my buckit come true with a few good years of shooting pesky tin cans
cartbon copy Good stuff, I have a 357 Mag video in the works.
Great video. Thank you so much for doing it. Very helpful.
Your welcome.
Darn good tutorials - you also have a great speaking voice.Two thumbs up!
Thank you.
If dude doesn't want to do his current racket he should get into audio book narration.
Thanks Ed. Very helpful
Your welcome glad I could help.
great vid man. thanks.
Your welcome.
!Excellent video!
Glad it helped you Frank
Excellent video. Looking forward to cranking out 1000 rounds soon.
Good stuff.
Excellent video. You sound like Rocky Balboa, and that’s a plus. 💪🏻💪🏻 thanks man
Your welcome!
8 yr old video still hold'n up...
great video. ty. I use to reload and shoot back in the 70's. then work said I need to work 24 hours a day. hmmmmm. anyway retired now and going to get back to my "bucket" project. got a rcbs and ready to load.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
cartbon copy Good stuff I have a 357 Mag video that's in the works.
Carbon Copy interesting title( carbon (copy) man I wanted to tell you that your situation sounds like mine. Life has a lot of parallels associated with our age and growing up in our time. I’m( refsmiliarizing) myself with my old equipment its easier the second time around. I’ve found stuff that I forgot I have. FOR THE LOVE OF SHOOTING! Have a great life and happy shooting!
Great video. I have noticed that most videos seem to overlook the fact that us beginners are exactly that, beginning. Your detailed instructions are a welcomed sight. What I liked the most was the detailed instructions on adjusting the dies.
No problem, that's what I was trying to achieve, I will have more coming in the next few months.
Big ED That's good to hear. I know that my laptop with your video will be right next to me when I attempt my first loads.
Very cool Thank You
Thanks Big Ed. Just picked up die's today for my 9mm. hand loading food for another one of my children. ha ha. I love to load my own load's, by the book though. Shoot strait bro, again great show's!
john bouley Thank you, got a 357 Magnum hand loading video in the works.
Great video for a newb.. just bought an older Hornady lnl ap .. still need a few things before I can start.. plan on the 9mm first before getting into rifle rounds.
Good stuff!
This was a good video thanks for breaking it down. I'm in the process of doing research on press. This helped me out more on the press and how to set it up once I get mine. Now I do have a question for you.
1. if you have a certain kind of press can you use any kind of die from different venders?
2. I have two 9mm since I will be shooting paper targets and stuff. The round i want are the 115 one. Now if i start making the 115 i should be able to shot them from either one right?
I really don't want to have different load for each gun. I would like a generic one for both guns. Hopefully that makes sense.
great video thanks
+Scott Townley No problem I will keep'm coming
I tumble for 2 hrs so I clean the inside of the case to. I also found it much easier to leave the old primer in when I tumble so when I decap it there's no crap in the primer pocket.
I've also start soley cleaning the same way primer in.
Good video. I'd really encourage anyone starting out to go "wet tumble" with SS pins versus the vibratory tumbler. No clogged primer holes. No need to scrape the primer pockets. The cases look brand new...inside and out.
I might have to try that system out.
Really good video. 😊 good teaching method. Do you have any videos on how to use calipers.?
You can also clean them with a home made liquid tumbler with stainless steel "pins" which are actually .042" chunks of Stainless steel wire. That cleans primer holes very nicely also. My whole rig cost me about $12.
I might try that, thank you. I also hate primer pockets.
You sound just like Thomas Haden Church. Kept laughing through the video because it's uncanny. Nice job on the video.
Thank you I will.
Great video. Wish I saw this before I fist started reloading. One comment: do you use a case gauge at all? Or at least the "plunk" test? I use a Dillon gauge and find 1 slightly out of spec round per 250-300, though for whatever reason they always pass the plunk test LOL.
I will plunk test every once and a while, I never use a case gauge for 9mm, I have never had any problems with 9mm easy round to reload. Forgiving since it's tapered.
Thanks Ed. Very comprensive videos. A question....what do you use for press ram lubrication? Thanks!
Thank you, I use anything case lube, gun lube wd40 I don't think it matters as long as it gets lubed!
Hey new reloaders, some more tips from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is almost everything I know.
If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice.
If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of 1.5 hours for a hundred rounds for a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes cleaning, drying, set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench.
Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. (spend that cash)
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them.
Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. Notice all the lights here. And a solid looking bench. Nice.
ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals.
There is a case length specification, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down.
ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length.
Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass can be reloaded.
There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded.
There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that.
Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash.
Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket.
ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry.
Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round.
Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money)
NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured.
ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both.
Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry.
If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out.
Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin')
Many powder manufacturers list their loads online.
Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem.
Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes.
Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefor crimp may vary. This can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets.
A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently.
38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.
Throw a dryer sheet into your tumbler, it cleans your media, it will come out black.
bucsfan116 I will give that a try.
That center stem you turned down is the bullet seater not the crimp. The main body is the crimp. That center pin will only seat the bullet deaper by turning it down.
After you sized and decapped, I was waiting for you to measure the diameter across the case mouth which is specified in the loading manual as a max. of .381 For my RCBS sizing die (three die set) the sizing cavity is tapered, so if I run the shell holder flush with the bottom of the die, the case runs too deep in the die making the mouth opening .372 ...then as I seat the bullet, the bullet creates a bulge in the case, causing the diameter in the case (below the bulge) to be smaller then the .381 diameter in the manual. When I shoot the round, I see gas pressure blow-back (black soot) down the length of the case ..I guess its do to the gap between the small case diameter vs. the chamber diameter of the barrel. I noticed the same bulge in your finished rounds... any ideas? Thanks...
I run the case all the way into the resize then flare the opening, bullet slides in every time, just like on this video. I don't measure 9mm.
As far as the tumbler goes with the pockets being all dirty! That's why I use an ultrasonic cleaner only use my tumbler to powder coat my bullets
Yes an ultrasonic cleaner would be a great upgrade hummmm........
Nice.
What would be an "acceptable" bullet seating depth variance, Sometimes in 9mm I will get jumps as high as .006 lee dies lee turret.
I just load them to max lenght, never had a problem in any of my pistols.
Hello,I am brand new to reloading and have a question. How many times can 9mm brass be fired? I know there are all kinds of varibles but what is the average?
Probably 5-10 times it's so cheap to buy once fired stuff anyway.
Does anyone ever use the little scooper? I've never used one or apparently know how. It never weighs correctly or near as consistently as the powder thrower. Different powder (flake, ball, extruded) all have different sizes and throw charges differently. Is the dipper for a certain type of powder or more of a paper weight?
I would just use a standard powder dropper, thrower. Like in my videos.
So I noticed in one of my load books that for different billets the OAL changed depending on each bullet. So is that just the minimum length for that bullet? If I wanted I can make it the max length of 9mm or less as long as I’m not bigger than the 1.169? Sorry I’m new to reloading so I’m just trying to figure that out.
I would keep any 9mm reload close or at maximum length.
@@biged7175 okay. I run 115 grain blazer brass fmj all the time for range ammo and my Glock loves it. I measured and the typical OAL length for that bullet is 1.15. I plan on loading 115gr fmj for my first bullets so now I just need to gather some load data so I can set my charges
@@basketcas3717 For something simple like 9mm i'd stick with 115's or 124's and buy 1,000 projectiles once prices come down or you can find some a descent prices.
I am brand new to reloading and have a question. I have reloaded a small batch to test and shot them yesterday. They did just fine. My question is on the C.O.A.L. . The hornady manual says the COAL for a 115 full metal jacket round nose is 1.100. The Nosler reloading says 1.169 for the same bullet. Can someone explain why they are different. Thanks for any help
Different manuals will have slightly different specs use either one or spilt the difference.
Nice video. Not a fan of that RCBS press at all because the priming system.. fingering every primer is a no go in my camp
Ed, could you do a video on .380 loading ? I am having problems. I loaded 50 and only 20 would pass the Wilson case checker tool. have no idea why. the cases are to fat where done. but if I use my barrel out of my glock 42 380. they will load ????????????????
I'm not a 380 fan just go with 9mm much better and less $$$, reloading 9mm should be similar to 380, what kinds of dies are you using, I would for get the wilson tool for pistol ammo as long as they work in your g43 I would run 'm
ok, ty anyway. I have been getting 400-500 once shot brass cases every mont now so I starte reloaging them
Carbon Copy I seem to have the same issue but my sig p238 still eats them up with no issue as long as they cycle threw your weapon use them Just pay attention for misfires
Good video, You dont need to lube pistol case with Carbide Dies . RIFLE case is a MUST lube. WIN 231 or HP-38 work GREAT on 9mm. PS Love your camera shots
+John Budesa I'm just in the habit off putting lube on anything metal, I work in the marine industry.
Why did I give my powder charger away !? I individually weight each round now ; what ever the caliber. BTW, if you drop the charge handle say 10 times (into the scale-collector pan) the weight of the sum of the 10 ea charges should = 10X the "target" charge. Better sampling resolution on the power charger adjustment ; the physical shape of the powder type you are using will affect how your powder charger "meters" too. Head-spacing on the 9mm is something worth mentioning.
I'll only weight each charge for precision rifle rounds. For pistol rounds RCBS powder drop really works great even with all the powders I use still reloading this way to this day. For common pistol rounds my spreads are very low. Good call on head spacing.
is the factory seating die needed? my die kit was a Lee 3 die kit
thanks great vid.
Bob Chiz I have never had great luck seating the bullet and crimping with the same die/step/stroke, I always use the seating die then finish with the crimp die. Especially with hand guns you want a good crimp, with pistols when the cartage feeds that bullet will be pushed by the feed ramp back into the case. Revolvers do to heavier recoil, bullets can jump week crimps. I would use all four dies to make sure your making the best ammo you can.
Done deal ordering one now,do you use a factory crimp die for rifle rounds?
Bob Chiz For my Remington 700 308 that's built as a long range target rifle, I don't use any crimp, I single load or use the magazine system gingerly. For my AR-15's and AK-15 I crimp since the rounds are being slammed into the feed ramps by bolts.ruclips.net/p/PLBQNtxwpkO8x-uXb4tPdXPD6EsExsqf-J
ruclips.net/p/PLBQNtxwpkO8yNlJKk3Y6F0sYa33w8uj0D
Cool thank you
Bob Chiz Feel free to Subscribe, I'm cooking up a hot 357 Mag video.
Where do u get pistol powder? Thanks
I bought this Hodgdon HS-6 at Chester's on Long Island NY, most of the big stores online are out of powder, gunbroker has powder listed. Also local stores have some powder you might have to pay $40+ a lbs
Don't know if I've ever seen almond shell media, can't find it anywhere online, maybe he means walnut shell.
Lol good catch walnut shell!
I think I found the problem with 380's I have been makeing. It I seat the bullet a small amount to deep, but still in specs, they bulge the shell. But I did as one person sugested and they to load them in glock. and they loaded fine. so problem fixed. ty everone
No problem, I always load my cases to max length.
Just wondering, why polish your casing?
It's cleans them, makes them feed better and they look nicer.
Big ED thanks bro.
Your C.O.L. should come from your loading table. You don't make the length equal to the design Max. cartridge length.
I thought with carbide die u don't need to use case lube I'm new at reloading
Just cheap insurance .02 watch this video.
ruclips.net/video/MHzC6cLUlZc/видео.html
putastoponyourpresssandkeepontrukin great vid👍👍👍👍👍👍
Lee decaping pins don't break The collet will allow them to slip and not break not true of other brands
Interesting Bill good to know.
you know?
picking up primers with your greasy fingers?? OMG talk about accuracy failure....
PE J In my experience it does not matter, I have loads 10,000 9mm rounds the always go bang except for powder less rounds when I squib myself. I'm not bench resting 9mm.