I recently bought this with extra long side rails and additional cross bars so I can build it out for multi-day or down for day trips. The flexibility is awesome.
NRS frames are great and I think under appreciated, especially if you lack storage or are flying or driving unrigged. I have a 120in universal for the cataraft that broken down hides nicely in a corner in the garage. For playboating I ended up building a frame for my Tributary Nine.Five out of pipe fittings and NRS parts (oar towers and seat bracket and seat from NRS) believing I'd outsmart NRS and save some money. I also wanted a frame that maximized my boat width and length. I actually spent just about the same amount as the Long Horn from NRS, though, I technically have a fully boxed 2 bay frame that can seat a passenger or hold some overnight gear off the floor. Upside, what I noted (more bays, stronger, more versatile, more tie down points, especially since Aire is nice enough to include a ton of D rings on the Tributary, and with side decking I built, even more ability to strap stuff down). Downsides: slightly heavier, harder to break down (but still can be broken down if needed).
Great video. Any thoughts on how best to center the frame on your raft? Do you want to the rowers center of mass over the boats, or should the rower be slightly behind or in front of the boats center line?
One other thing about those oar towers. No matter how tight you get them, they always seem to be not tight enough. I always keep that wrench handy like Zack said. But usually they only need one readjustment. On the flip side (pun not necessarily intended) I think in a flip them moving vs bending, breaking or bending or breaking an oar lock is almost an unintended design advantage. Readjusting vs replacing seems like a bargain.
You need the Deluxe foot bar for the toe pegs. That doesn't come with the standard longhorn frame but if you call NRS or if you leave a notation in the order form they will customize the frame for you. Adjusting the price accordingly.
@@VideoTroy12 I'm not quite sure how well it works bolting on the pegs to the regular bar because it's tough to lock your feet in. I'd definitely opt for the deluxe bar myself (which I have from universal frame). The standard bar, imo, is really meant more for pushing off of than locking in with and it's pretty wide at the curves where the pegs would be. I'd chat with NRS and see what they recommend, they may save you from a bad decision. On my homemade frame I have a push bar without pegs but I plan to add either nrs pegs or a second bar to lock in my feet. I've been wedging them under the bar but that puts them too low and on the bar I need a little lock in bigger water with the 9.5. I get tossed pretty good in that little raft. Makes things fun and interesting, but I still prefer not to swim when possible.
I highly recommend buying a couple spare NRS u-bolts or u-bolts from the hardware store with nuts. Kinda sucks to snap a bolt at the put in or in the garage tinkering for the next trip
I recently bought this with extra long side rails and additional cross bars so I can build it out for multi-day or down for day trips. The flexibility is awesome.
NRS frames are great and I think under appreciated, especially if you lack storage or are flying or driving unrigged. I have a 120in universal for the cataraft that broken down hides nicely in a corner in the garage. For playboating I ended up building a frame for my Tributary Nine.Five out of pipe fittings and NRS parts (oar towers and seat bracket and seat from NRS) believing I'd outsmart NRS and save some money. I also wanted a frame that maximized my boat width and length. I actually spent just about the same amount as the Long Horn from NRS, though, I technically have a fully boxed 2 bay frame that can seat a passenger or hold some overnight gear off the floor. Upside, what I noted (more bays, stronger, more versatile, more tie down points, especially since Aire is nice enough to include a ton of D rings on the Tributary, and with side decking I built, even more ability to strap stuff down). Downsides: slightly heavier, harder to break down (but still can be broken down if needed).
Used it, love it, fits in the back of my outback with a little finagling
How many inches over center do you want the side rails?
I like it at or near the center
Hey, what model is the yellow narrow boat with the frame, in the thumbnail. Thanks in advance.
It's a Wing and believe this design www.inflatablesolutions.com/whitewater/assets/12-6.pdf
Great video. Any thoughts on how best to center the frame on your raft? Do you want to the rowers center of mass over the boats, or should the rower be slightly behind or in front of the boats center line?
Depends... he did a video on it, search the channel... enjoy
@@stevefrink4842 Just watched it yesterday! Ask and you shall receive, I guess.
One other thing about those oar towers. No matter how tight you get them, they always seem to be not tight enough. I always keep that wrench handy like Zack said. But usually they only need one readjustment. On the flip side (pun not necessarily intended) I think in a flip them moving vs bending, breaking or bending or breaking an oar lock is almost an unintended design advantage. Readjusting vs replacing seems like a bargain.
Have you used the add on toe pegs that NRS has? I believe they attach directly to the foot bar.
You need the Deluxe foot bar for the toe pegs. That doesn't come with the standard longhorn frame but if you call NRS or if you leave a notation in the order form they will customize the frame for you. Adjusting the price accordingly.
Video_Troy they’re pretty mediocre but your only option with an NRS frame
MountainVisions there is the deluxe foot bar(with pegs) but I also think they have bolt on foot pegs that can be added on to the standard longhorn.
@@VideoTroy12 I'm not quite sure how well it works bolting on the pegs to the regular bar because it's tough to lock your feet in. I'd definitely opt for the deluxe bar myself (which I have from universal frame). The standard bar, imo, is really meant more for pushing off of than locking in with and it's pretty wide at the curves where the pegs would be. I'd chat with NRS and see what they recommend, they may save you from a bad decision.
On my homemade frame I have a push bar without pegs but I plan to add either nrs pegs or a second bar to lock in my feet. I've been wedging them under the bar but that puts them too low and on the bar I need a little lock in bigger water with the 9.5. I get tossed pretty good in that little raft. Makes things fun and interesting, but I still prefer not to swim when possible.
I highly recommend buying a couple spare NRS u-bolts or u-bolts from the hardware store with nuts. Kinda sucks to snap a bolt at the put in or in the garage tinkering for the next trip
Great suggestion. Thank you.
it will last for years, longer than your rift will. 10 or 20 years