Interesting video - but it would be better if we could see all the images you were talking about. There's a big chunk in the middle where you're discussing colours in images - but we can't see what you're referring to...
Thank you Alex, very informative. Twisted colours gave me a great mental model of the problem I've faced with several of my big sky images. However, I think the biggest takeaway was focusing a little more on curves as I currently use levels, curves, contract, clarity etc whilst sometimes ignoring the impact they have on hue. In Capture One (and probably LR / PS etc), you can apply a luma curve which doesn't affect hue (presumably until one of the channels clips) which is the option I always use.
I think applying a curve with luminosity would effectively maintain the difference in the channels to maintain hue, so rather than 'twisting' the colour the hue would be preserved and the lightness increased until it went white! Of course that leads to some desaturated looking colours sometimes, so context is important! In general careful use of curves will preserve hue accuracy unless you start shifting the white point, in which case you just need to be aware of the problem. As I mention in the video, twisting colour is sometimes the better outcome than washing out the colour with white!
Very thought provoking, as it often is when Alex presents. sRGB! 🤪 Once I stopped hyperventilating, I saw the sense in this point. As for that last photo, I try to “save” images like that by converting to b&w.
@Fotospeed, hi Tim. I recently photographed for an artist painter friend of mine some of his artwork. He wants to produce fine arts prints for sale. He did send 2 of my files to a lab to print off. One with a white card (for white balance the image) included in the image and the same photo that I edited (just crop and basic adjustments like white balance and contrast only). The results were disappointing when he received the prints, when compared with the original painting. Was it not possible to print it off more accurately just using the white card for white balance, cropping and then make a print? Could you please give a reference of a good lab to produce accurate fine art prints? Thank you very much in advance.
Nah, just make sure you get a halfway decent monitor & keep it calibrated. Edit to taste but if you’re not a working pro, wait a couple of weeks or months & look at your photo again before releasing into the public or printing. The way I edit when starting 8 years ago & now changed a lot. Sometimes I still edit my wildlife photos to the artistic side (like maybe playing with the water color in a winter duck photo) but not to often.
2 questions. First for photo speed. You going to do a vid on edit to print for the printer color space & does something like the ColorChecker Passport come into play or help at all with landscape photography? Second for Alex. Can the White Balance be a preset to correct + 5 LR equivalent in the Sony R5 white balance menu? Or better go do it as a preset on import in LR? Thanks for any replies.
I can have a go at the second part of the first question: Most cameras make colour choices referred to commonly as “colour science” which some people talk about as a potential reason to buy a camera, particularly in portrait photography. But in some ways it is just colour innacuracy (though that is somewhat complicated). In theory a colour checker will allow hues (colours) to be represented perfectly accurately. Though when you create one of these profiles it will mean that the hue is ALWAYS preferred, so the ‘colour twisting’ I refer to in this video doesn’t happen, and yet that might be the more desirable solution than maintaining hue. But the short answer is I believe every landscape photographer should have a color checker based profile for their camera because in many cases it produces the best colour. The second question is a yes to both I believe. I certainly used to use an import preset to set my whitebalance and just haven’t got around to setting one up yet!
Interesting video - but it would be better if we could see all the images you were talking about. There's a big chunk in the middle where you're discussing colours in images - but we can't see what you're referring to...
Thank you Alex, very informative. Twisted colours gave me a great mental model of the problem I've faced with several of my big sky images. However, I think the biggest takeaway was focusing a little more on curves as I currently use levels, curves, contract, clarity etc whilst sometimes ignoring the impact they have on hue. In Capture One (and probably LR / PS etc), you can apply a luma curve which doesn't affect hue (presumably until one of the channels clips) which is the option I always use.
I think applying a curve with luminosity would effectively maintain the difference in the channels to maintain hue, so rather than 'twisting' the colour the hue would be preserved and the lightness increased until it went white! Of course that leads to some desaturated looking colours sometimes, so context is important!
In general careful use of curves will preserve hue accuracy unless you start shifting the white point, in which case you just need to be aware of the problem. As I mention in the video, twisting colour is sometimes the better outcome than washing out the colour with white!
We didn’t see the images at 20.22 that Alex is talking about 😕
Love that. Thanks lads
Very thought provoking, as it often is when Alex presents. sRGB! 🤪 Once I stopped hyperventilating, I saw the sense in this point. As for that last photo, I try to “save” images like that by converting to b&w.
In that last example, have you tried the luminance channels in the in color grading panel? It should at least fix the hue shift issue...
@Fotospeed, hi Tim. I recently photographed for an artist painter friend of mine some of his artwork. He wants to produce fine arts prints for sale. He did send 2 of my files to a lab to print off. One with a white card (for white balance the image) included in the image and the same photo that I edited (just crop and basic adjustments like white balance and contrast only). The results were disappointing when he received the prints, when compared with the original painting. Was it not possible to print it off more accurately just using the white card for white balance, cropping and then make a print? Could you please give a reference of a good lab to produce accurate fine art prints? Thank you very much in advance.
Fascinating if a little headache inducing!🤔
Nah, just make sure you get a halfway decent monitor & keep it calibrated. Edit to taste but if you’re not a working pro, wait a couple of weeks or months & look at your photo again before releasing into the public or printing. The way I edit when starting 8 years ago & now changed a lot. Sometimes I still edit my wildlife photos to the artistic side (like maybe playing with the water color in a winter duck photo) but not to often.
I do apologise!
2 questions. First for photo speed. You going to do a vid on edit to print for the printer color space & does something like the ColorChecker Passport come into play or help at all with landscape photography?
Second for Alex. Can the White Balance be a preset to correct + 5 LR equivalent in the Sony R5 white balance menu? Or better go do it as a preset on import in LR? Thanks for any replies.
I can have a go at the second part of the first question:
Most cameras make colour choices referred to commonly as “colour science” which some people talk about as a potential reason to buy a camera, particularly in portrait photography. But in some ways it is just colour innacuracy (though that is somewhat complicated).
In theory a colour checker will allow hues (colours) to be represented perfectly accurately. Though when you create one of these profiles it will mean that the hue is ALWAYS preferred, so the ‘colour twisting’ I refer to in this video doesn’t happen, and yet that might be the more desirable solution than maintaining hue.
But the short answer is I believe every landscape photographer should have a color checker based profile for their camera because in many cases it produces the best colour.
The second question is a yes to both I believe. I certainly used to use an import preset to set my whitebalance and just haven’t got around to setting one up yet!
@@alexnail Thank you sir!