Crispin, your videos are indeed a pleasure to watch. I am delighted that you were the recipient of Keith Fenner's toolbox. You are wise beyond your years and truly an inspiration for everyone, young and old. Keep up the great work. Best regards, Richard
I can see that toolbox did not go to waste mate. Very nice neat job. I'm sure your parents are very proud of you. If I were your Father I would be over the moon at how well you turned out. Better than hanging out in the streets getting into trouble. Matt
absolutely brilliant. another terrific video. loved seeing this slightly out of norm use of the dividing head. definitely adding this idea to the reserve arsenal. thanks again for sharing your knowledge and for taking the time to create these videos.
Great to see the new video. I loved the use of the DTI activated by the carriage to obtain an indication of approaching boring depth to allow for a precise finish cut as an alternative to a stop.
Hi Crispin Excellent work and video, a great example of British engineering as usual, thanks for taking the time to explain the machining in detail, thanks for sharing, looking forward to your next video, Laurie
Crispin very well done! Another great video from a very accomplished young engineer! I look forward to every new episode. A very concise and easy manner makes everything easy to follow and understand. Roll on the next video.
Quite excellent Mr Crispin! You have gibe my son and I great great encouragement with our LMS Jubilee project. Thankyou and please keep up the fantasiic coverage.
+David Leahy Hi there, just a little tip I have just found out how to do. I see that you did another post, with a spelling correction, I have done the same in the past. Some posts after the date say EDITED, and I found out how to do it. Here is what you need to do in future ( you can even still correct this post now ) In the TOP right hand corner of your post, you will see a DIM circle with a x in the centre, if you hover your mouse over it it will darken and the mouse pointer will change to a hand, meaning it is a Hyperlink. Now if you left click on it, you will get a drop down box that says EDIT, Remove this Comment. Click on edit, do your additions, spelling corrections, then at the bottom click the SAVE button. You comment will be reloaded and it will now also show EDITED alongside the date. Hope this is useful to you, it has certainly saved my bacon a few times now, after typing errors and garbled instructions. Good luck with Jubilee, I helped make parts for Juliet when I was at School in the 1960's and I have made Caribou in 3.5 inch in the 1980's and ran it at the local park's track for 8 Years. It is having a well earned rest now, but still in A1 condition.
mr crispin thank you for your video's, im new to home engineering as iv just had a small amadeal 8x17 lathe for about 3 months now and youre video's have brought me on really good if your skills were an inch mine are about 1 or 2 thou so iv a way to go yet but it is your video's that are getting me there so once again thank you.
Amazing how at 15:20 while making the pilot holes for the slots, the mill chuck turns one way but the center drill in the chuck turns the opposite way. Neat camera effect. Great video!
Dear Mr Crispin, we are very much looking forward to your next instalment. We have now cut finished and assembled our frames (Galatea) with scratch completed stretchers (hats off to Mr Allcock!)and are now considering our next steps. We have all the raw materials ready and cylinders etc. We are very much looking forward to how you complete these for your SpringBock. Keep up the good work! Dr David Leahy and David Leahy Jnr.
Very nice work Mr. Crispin, I've just found your channel and am working through your videos :) One thing I learned recently from George Thomas's book is that a lathe will generally bore a bit bigger when being drawn out (left to right) than it does going in, due to the reversal of direction of the racking forces on the saddle by the drive rack and pinion. So something to keep in mind for the next boring job :)
Hi. Thanks to for your comment. Yes the effect of changing direction is quite noticeable, perticularly on this lathe as it has a flat bed. Lathes with v ways can offer a bit more resistance to saddle twisting but I'm sure they are still affected.
Do you think it would have restricted the steam too much to just drill a full set of holes rather than making those slots? Sure could have saved a ton of time, but then again this is very good practice. They looked like they turned out very nice. I liked your fixture to make the repetitive work easier.
+bcbloc02 You need slots for the valve to work correctly. Slots give a sharp straight line for the spool valve which fits inside this. This is required to give a sharp cut off point to the steam. round holes would be no good at all.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Crispin, have tried to send you a comment, but can not do so direct so I am writing it here hoping you will see it. What are you going to gain by re machining the spool valve liners later when they have been installed in the cylinder block ? When I made my 3 1/2 inch Caribou the liners were totally finished and shrunk fit into the cylinder blocks. Easy to make the bobbins / spool valve to fit the liners. As you had mad a jig for holding them and it was concentric, could have finished the bore at the same setting. Are there no castings available for your Loco ? Lot of work to make cylinders from solid, will have to cut every steam port, castings already have the basic size, just meeds cleaning up slightly. Hope RR are keeping you on your toes.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave, Thanks for the input. I am going to line bore both the main bore and the liner bore in the same set up. By line bore I mean bore on the lathe with a between centre boring bar and the work mounted on the carriage. This should give me a much more parallel bore, and probably a better surface finish as it will be a much more stable set up. Also by boring them in the same setup the two bores should be parallel. I agree I could have bored the liners in the fixture although the boring bar would have to be extended along way. A set of castings is about £300 and I find it interesting doing it from solid so thats my main reasoning behind fabricating. Cheers Crispin
Dave Ticehurst Makes sense. With the holes you would have the same start and end events but the flows at those points would be greatly reduced. I guess it would be similar to running cut off right?
+bcbloc02 The issue is more that you dont get a good burst of steam, nor a quick cut off. With a PCD of holes, as the valve slides across the ports you would get continually more steam until the center of the holes, then you would get continually less steam. Simply based on the shape of a circle. With the way ive done it you get a slight change due to the corner radii but you get much more of the desired effect.
I am a little confused by the materials! Your making block out of steel and cylinders out of cast iron! Why not the other way around, like traditional engines are? Is there something about steam that would dictate it being done that way? In another comment, you mentioned something about liners, are you putting some kind of liner in the cylinder? Great video! Nice work and detailing!!
+Fred Newman Most models either either have cast iron, bronze, or gun metal bores / pistons. Cast iron bores and cast iron pistons give just about the best friction pair you could get. The free Graphite in cast iron makes it a good self lubricator. The controction of the cyinders is as follows. Mild steel blocks, with cast iron liners.
Can I ask a quick question? If you were going to create a part that has two conjoined cyclinders on the top...so it's like of like two circles with a bit of overlap like a venn diagram, how would you do that? Specifically, it is a rectangular base with the top being like two-slightly overlapping cylinders of very short-height.
Mr Crispin. Please were can I order these drawings. Or could you sell me a copy, I am very interested in this topic and I would love that you could help me with some information. Beforehand thank you very much ... PS: I don't speak English very good :(
crizspin make.. sure you make 4 pressure relief valves for your cylinders ! they are situated at the lowest point on the cylinder head ..drill a 1/4 " hole through the head front and back cylinder head "on this hole is sat a ball bearing which forms a seal ,, behind this is a strong spring set at 5 lbs above blow off pressure.. the whole is held in a captive flanged tubular housing.. so when all is finished and your running your finished locomotive ! you WILL at times forget to open the drain cocks after standing ! you start to roll, , irigardles of the water build up in your cylinders the excess water pressure will unseat the ball bearing thus releasing all the uncompresable water !!!!!! thus saving the cylinder ends being blown off..! ! these valves are not on the drawings i dont think .regards laurence
just a note my accuracy with ball gages and snap gages laves something to be desired. but if I want a really accurate measurement of a bore I use adjustable parallels inserted into the bore and then measure with a micrometer the opposed corners. works well for me and gives me repeatable measurements every time ps as you may notice not proficient at comments either.
Just found your site, I follow NYC CNC, OXTOOL, ABOMB etc, really like your work, I am all manual Instrumentmaker and feel like these skills will disappear eventually?
Evening Mr Crispin 🤠 What a great way to end my day by watching one of your videos 👍🏻 Cheers Stevie
Great series about machining a cylinder. Very intersting and educational series of videos👍👍👏👏
Crispin, your videos are indeed a pleasure to watch. I am delighted that you were the recipient of Keith Fenner's toolbox. You are wise beyond your years and truly an inspiration for everyone, young and old.
Keep up the great work.
Best regards,
Richard
I can see that toolbox did not go to waste mate. Very nice neat job.
I'm sure your parents are very proud of you. If I were your Father I would be
over the moon at how well you turned out.
Better than hanging out in the streets getting into trouble.
Matt
Excellent machine work young man you are years ahead of your age and a inspiration to us all.
The quality of the work and video/ video editing/audio/camera angle is superb.
absolutely brilliant. another terrific video. loved seeing this slightly out of norm use of the dividing head. definitely adding this idea to the reserve arsenal. thanks again for sharing your knowledge and for taking the time to create these videos.
Great to see the new video. I loved the use of the DTI activated by the carriage to obtain an indication of approaching boring depth to allow for a precise finish cut as an alternative to a stop.
Hi Crispin
Excellent work and video, a great example of British engineering as usual, thanks for taking the time to explain the machining in detail, thanks for sharing, looking forward to your next video, Laurie
Mr.Crispin. You are a genius. I learn a lot from you. Thanks
Crispin very well done! Another great video from a very accomplished young engineer! I look forward to every new episode. A very concise and easy manner makes everything easy to follow and understand. Roll on the next video.
Quite excellent Mr Crispin! You have gibe my son and I great great encouragement with our LMS Jubilee project. Thankyou and please keep up the fantasiic coverage.
+David Leahy Thanks, Nice that my videos are furthering the hobby.
+David Leahy Hi there, just a little tip I have just found out how to do. I see that you did another post, with a spelling correction, I have done the same in the past. Some posts after the date say EDITED, and I found out how to do it. Here is what you need to do in future ( you can even still correct this post now ) In the TOP right hand corner of your post, you will see a DIM circle with a x in the centre, if you hover your mouse over it it will darken and the mouse pointer will change to a hand, meaning it is a Hyperlink. Now if you left click on it, you will get a drop down box that says EDIT, Remove this Comment. Click on edit, do your additions, spelling corrections, then at the bottom click the SAVE button. You comment will be reloaded and it will now also show EDITED alongside the date. Hope this is useful to you, it has certainly saved my bacon a few times now, after typing errors and garbled instructions. Good luck with Jubilee, I helped make parts for Juliet when I was at School in the 1960's and I have made Caribou in 3.5 inch in the 1980's and ran it at the local park's track for 8 Years. It is having a well earned rest now, but still in A1 condition.
mr crispin thank you for your video's, im new to home engineering as iv just had a small amadeal 8x17 lathe for about 3 months now and youre video's have brought me on really good if your skills were an inch mine are about 1 or 2 thou so iv a way to go yet but it is your video's that are getting me there so once again thank you.
+Joseph Armstrong Thanks very much, I always hope my videos can help.
I've only just realised that these are twin acting cylinders!
Your project is coming along nicely.
Excellent, premeditated steps, and a professional presentation. Thank You
good to see you are back mr crispin,great video and love you style and attention to detail,looking forward to your next video.
A great explanation and example of measuring. Thank you for sharing.
Joe
Interesting with the fixture etc. the cast was machining very freely too. Thanks for the video.
Hi Crispin
Nice to see you back, great video thanks for sharing.
Tony
Thanks for the video. Good to see you're still at it. I enjoy the work you do.
Amazing how at 15:20 while making the pilot holes for the slots, the mill chuck turns one way but the center drill in the chuck turns the opposite way. Neat camera effect. Great video!
Beautiful work Crispin, look forward to seeing more.
Thanks, John
Excellent!!!!! And the best part is that @ 11:38 on the boring of the valve cylinder it already sound like a steam train at full speed!!! LOL!
High quality work and attention to detail.
Dear Mr Crispin, we are very much looking forward to your next instalment. We have now cut finished and assembled our frames (Galatea) with scratch completed stretchers (hats off to Mr Allcock!)and are now considering our next steps. We have all the raw materials ready and cylinders etc. We are very much looking forward to how you complete these for your SpringBock. Keep up the good work! Dr David Leahy and David Leahy Jnr.
I've been awaiting your return! But it's been worth it.
Great explanations - looking forward to the next instalment of your build.
Very nice video Crispin! I like your attention to detail. You need to find yourself a steady rest.
Very nice video, great work!!! Learning machining to build my own steam engine is my goal. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work Cris
As some time has past when I watched your video I wanted to see it again. To watch the next video soon after.
very nice work mr crispin , you are genie
Really enjoyed this. really lookinf forward to the next part.
As always I enjoyed your video! keep em' coming mate!
Who needs a CNC when you have a Mr Crispin!
Welcome back Crispin.
Very nice work Mr. Crispin, I've just found your channel and am working through your videos :) One thing I learned recently from George Thomas's book is that a lathe will generally bore a bit bigger when being drawn out (left to right) than it does going in, due to the reversal of direction of the racking forces on the saddle by the drive rack and pinion. So something to keep in mind for the next boring job :)
Hi. Thanks to for your comment. Yes the effect of changing direction is quite noticeable, perticularly on this lathe as it has a flat bed. Lathes with v ways can offer a bit more resistance to saddle twisting but I'm sure they are still affected.
Do you think it would have restricted the steam too much to just drill a full set of holes rather than making those slots? Sure could have saved a ton of time, but then again this is very good practice. They looked like they turned out very nice. I liked your fixture to make the repetitive work easier.
+bcbloc02 You need slots for the valve to work correctly. Slots give a sharp straight line for the spool valve which fits inside this. This is required to give a sharp cut off point to the steam. round holes would be no good at all.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Crispin, have tried to send you a comment, but can not do so direct so I am writing it here hoping you will see it. What are you going to gain by re machining the spool valve liners later when they have been installed in the cylinder block ? When I made my 3 1/2 inch Caribou the liners were totally finished and shrunk fit into the cylinder blocks. Easy to make the bobbins / spool valve to fit the liners. As you had mad a jig for holding them and it was concentric, could have finished the bore at the same setting. Are there no castings available for your Loco ? Lot of work to make cylinders from solid, will have to cut every steam port, castings already have the basic size, just meeds cleaning up slightly. Hope RR are keeping you on your toes.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave, Thanks for the input. I am going to line bore both the main bore and the liner bore in the same set up. By line bore I mean bore on the lathe with a between centre boring bar and the work mounted on the carriage. This should give me a much more parallel bore, and probably a better surface finish as it will be a much more stable set up. Also by boring them in the same setup the two bores should be parallel.
I agree I could have bored the liners in the fixture although the boring bar would have to be extended along way.
A set of castings is about £300 and I find it interesting doing it from solid so thats my main reasoning behind fabricating.
Cheers
Crispin
Dave Ticehurst
Makes sense. With the holes you would have the same start and end events but the flows at those points would be greatly reduced. I guess it would be similar to running cut off right?
+bcbloc02 The issue is more that you dont get a good burst of steam, nor a quick cut off. With a PCD of holes, as the valve slides across the ports you would get continually more steam until the center of the holes, then you would get continually less steam. Simply based on the shape of a circle. With the way ive done it you get a slight change due to the corner radii but you get much more of the desired effect.
Very nice work!
Have you tried wiggling the work to make sure there is no play in the chuck or bearings?
Excellent work.
I am a little confused by the materials! Your making block out of steel and cylinders out of cast iron! Why not the other way around, like traditional engines are? Is there something about steam that would dictate it being done that way? In another comment, you mentioned something about liners, are you putting some kind of liner in the cylinder?
Great video! Nice work and detailing!!
+Fred Newman Most models either either have cast iron, bronze, or gun metal bores / pistons. Cast iron bores and cast iron pistons give just about the best friction pair you could get. The free Graphite in cast iron makes it a good self lubricator. The controction of the cyinders is as follows. Mild steel blocks, with cast iron liners.
+Fred Newman Free graphite = lubricity!
Like the way you figure out how to take your measurements with what you have to work with. Thanks
piece of ground something or other 23:30 lol superb engineering as ever very interesting I've got all this to come
Can I ask a quick question? If you were going to create a part that has two conjoined cyclinders on the top...so it's like of like two circles with a bit of overlap like a venn diagram, how would you do that? Specifically, it is a rectangular base with the top being like two-slightly overlapping cylinders of very short-height.
What kind of sizes and wall thicknesses are we talking, and can it be fabricated or does it have to be made from one solid piece?
Thank you for the reply,and keep on making videos.
Enjoyed the video, very nice work. How long did that job actually take?
+Phillip Yannone From memory a couple of weekends, it was tedious boring them out from solid but I had little choice.
Welcome back!
Have you got any experience of number stamping onto metal?
+Alan Jackson I occasionally stamp numbers or letters on to bits that go together or can only fir one way, but I don't do it very often.
Nice work Sir
Excellent. Thanks.
Very high precision works .....I need an engine like this. My mob +230 57530702 👍
Mr Crispin. Please were can I order these drawings. Or could you sell me a copy, I am very interested in this topic and I would love that you could help me with some information. Beforehand thank you very much ... PS: I don't speak English very good :(
Hi. Have a look here:http: //www.ajreeves.com/5-locomotives.html. The loco I'm building is a Springbok
Good job
crizspin make.. sure you make 4 pressure relief valves for your cylinders ! they are situated at the lowest point on the cylinder head ..drill a 1/4 " hole through the head front and back cylinder head "on this hole is sat a ball bearing which forms a seal ,, behind this is a strong spring set at 5 lbs above blow off pressure.. the whole is held in a captive flanged tubular housing.. so when all is finished and your running your finished locomotive ! you WILL at times forget to open the drain cocks after standing ! you start to roll, , irigardles of the water build up in your cylinders the excess water pressure will unseat the ball bearing thus releasing all the uncompresable water !!!!!! thus saving the cylinder ends being blown off..! ! these valves are not on the drawings i dont think .regards laurence
❤ed IT !!
just a note my accuracy with ball gages and snap gages laves something to be desired. but if I want a really accurate measurement of a bore I use adjustable parallels inserted into the bore and then measure with a micrometer the opposed corners. works well for me and gives me repeatable measurements every time ps as you may notice not proficient at comments either.
That's an excellent idea !!!
Just found your site, I follow NYC CNC, OXTOOL, ABOMB etc, really like your work, I am all manual Instrumentmaker and feel like these skills will disappear eventually?
Bravo !!!!
I meant given not gibe..lol
You describe yourself as Mr Crispin 96....what does the '96' - using my math skills, 96 is your year of birth so that is now solved - cheers, chuck
Up !!!!
dave b
WELL, AND........?????
dave b
AND ??????