I watched this video and was so impressed with the little shell kit that I ordered one immediately! I hope that I win so I can pick the one of a kind, complicated unit to compare my build to! Thanks for taking the time to make the video!
I've just ordered one of these little scopes. I've also come across usb rechargeable 9V batteries on banggood. So the board in the battery does charging from a usb socket and converts the 3.7V from the lipo to 9V. Do you think that this would be useful for the dso150 with a bigger lipo? There's also one wuthering charge indicator LEDs. Might be a simpler mod?
I really couldn't say. It really depends on how you will use the scope. Will you be needing it to be highly mobile like out side working on you car and will you it for short tests here and there or constantly on for a long project building session?
Ari Friedman sorry I meant to post the question in the main thread. I've never done this before and it looks like I mistakenly replied to your comment. Sorry
this case is really great, you thought on every detail while construction it. Thanks again for sending it to me, It was so much fun to build it, and soon someone else will have fun with it let's see where it goes after it's travel from italy to germany and was combined with chinese parts.
I looking to learn how to use it. I was hoping it could tell me if the diy power supply I build are putting out clean power. Recently I built many Op amp and amp kits from China. I was hoping to get the dso150 to tell me when it's clipping and get the voltage to calculate the watts. Thanks for the videos. Your a good teacher keep up the good work.
Very nice video! I know it's a little bit too late to comment about this video but I wonder what happened to the 220uF capacitor and the 1N5819 diode as shown in Gianluna's diagram. Are these components necessary or not? Thank you!
Very nice video! And a very nice shell for the DSO-150. I bought a complete Kit from Gianluca and it was delivered in 6 Days. Everything fits nicely and the build is easy even more after i saw this Video. Btw: The perfect size battery for this shell is the battery from a Galaxy S4 Smartphone. It has 2600mAh and fits perfect in the shell. Nice job, well done!
I just got my case yesterday. The case was not as good quality print as yours. But it still worked for the most part.. I could not get my screws to catch the lid of the DSO. I tried to drill the bottom a little and went two far and drilled right through! so I just used some tape to keep the case together!
Thank you for the descriptive video. A very successful upgrade. DSO150 - Shell for battery pack kit is $ 12.90 USD. But the shipping fee is $ 18 USD. A total of $ 30 USD. This is not an acceptable price for me. Thanks again.
He send from italy. So it depends where you life how much the sending cost. Just contact him he comment also on this video, maybe there is a cheaper way to send to your country.
There is plenty of room inside the case if you eliminate the encoder daughter board. I bend the encoder pins up and solder it directly to the main board. You would need to cut down the two screw posts as well. With the encoder daughter board there is only 4mm height for battery, and after my mod there is 9mm height for battery. By cutting the traces at the on/off switch one side can be repurposed to turn the boost converter on and off eliminating the need for a second switch. It is also fairly simple to modify the original 9v input jack to charge and power the device. Much smaller battery management modules are available, and there are plenty of inductor-less boost converters available if you shop around. Using a 2s 7.4 volt battery is also worth considering for a number of reasons.
Would be great if you can just attach a solar panel or 2 right on the back of a flat cell battery to keep batteries charged almost like the old calculators I think they were low voltage
The problem is - MT3608 is very noisy on output, and it can affect on oscillocsope. Did you made measurments and compares with working on battery and 3608? My transistor tester working from 3608 - asks for calibration every time I switch him on until he worked from 3608. After put 2x18650 - works fine.
Great build video. One question though, how do you charge the battery when battery is low? Is a modification to the case necessary to have access to the micro USB plug?
I did the same with a iPod 4 Touch battery a 3.7 v li ion charger pack charging module and a boost converter didn't have to buy any case would have been better with that case conversion nice
This mod is more expensive than the oscilloscope itself :/ 12.9€ + 3.5€ shipping, +extra money on the battery...that's almost 20€ just to get rid a cable you will have to connect more often than not.
Modding is fun, nothing about the price. And without cable where you still need a battery is more versatile. There is another video where I modify the case to place a battery.
first check the voltages? Link to the schematics www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/Schematic_150analog.pdf There are not many parts involved in generating the voltages. It's all around the ICL7660 and two voltage regulators for +5V and -5V this is the place where I would start. It's quiet difficult to analyse when you don't have the board on your bench. The 3,3V rail is generated on the digital board www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/Schematic_150main.pdf It's the LM1117-3.3 that generate the voltage check them all. And then go ahead with checking the micro and the other stuff. You should be able to fix it as long as the micro doesn't release the magic smoke.
ts.electronics the voltage of regulator is around 3.29V and on pin 9 of micro is 3.2V, i removed the analogic board, and surprise, the micro still heat up.
I watched this video and was so impressed with the little shell kit that I ordered one immediately! I hope that I win so I can pick the one of a kind, complicated unit to compare my build to! Thanks for taking the time to make the video!
I've just ordered one of these little scopes. I've also come across usb rechargeable 9V batteries on banggood. So the board in the battery does charging from a usb socket and converts the 3.7V from the lipo to 9V. Do you think that this would be useful for the dso150 with a bigger lipo?
There's also one wuthering charge indicator LEDs. Might be a simpler mod?
I really couldn't say. It really depends on how you will use the scope. Will you be needing it to be highly mobile like out side working on you car and will you it for short tests here and there or constantly on for a long project building session?
Ari Friedman sorry I meant to post the question in the main thread. I've never done this before and it looks like I mistakenly replied to your comment. Sorry
Very nice fitting sir thanks for nice video.
Thank you for this fantastic video! I would like to thank Osvaldo Collalti without which the project would not have been born...
this case is really great, you thought on every detail while construction it. Thanks again for sending it to me, It was so much fun to build it, and soon someone else will have fun with it let's see where it goes after it's travel from italy to germany and was combined with chinese parts.
I looking to learn how to use it. I was hoping it could tell me if the diy power supply I build are putting out clean power. Recently I built many Op amp and amp kits from China. I was hoping to get the dso150 to tell me when it's clipping and get the voltage to calculate the watts. Thanks for the videos. Your a good teacher keep up the good work.
Very nice video! I know it's a little bit too late to comment about this video but I wonder what happened to the 220uF capacitor and the 1N5819 diode as shown in Gianluna's diagram. Are these components necessary or not? Thank you!
Very nice video! And a very nice shell for the DSO-150. I bought a complete Kit from Gianluca and it was delivered in 6 Days. Everything fits nicely and the build is easy even more after i saw this Video. Btw: The perfect size battery for this shell is the battery from a Galaxy S4 Smartphone. It has 2600mAh and fits perfect in the shell.
Nice job, well done!
I just got my case yesterday. The case was not as good quality print as yours. But it still worked for the most part.. I could not get my screws to catch the lid of the DSO. I tried to drill the bottom a little and went two far and drilled right through! so I just used some tape to keep the case together!
Really nice modification kit. Interesting video
I would love one of these. So easy to put together.
Good job, and a great upgrade kit! Thanks!
P.S. Your link to this kit is no longer working, so i gave an updated link in my comment below. Thanks!
Yet again, another great video. Great explanation and very good descriptions by yourself. Well done. :)
Graet video, great modification kit. Than You.
Thank you for the descriptive video. A very successful upgrade. DSO150 - Shell for battery pack kit is $ 12.90 USD. But the shipping fee is $ 18 USD. A total of $ 30 USD. This is not an acceptable price for me. Thanks again.
He send from italy. So it depends where you life how much the sending cost. Just contact him he comment also on this video, maybe there is a cheaper way to send to your country.
There is plenty of room inside the case if you eliminate the encoder daughter board. I bend the encoder pins up and solder it directly to the main board. You would need to cut down the two screw posts as well. With the encoder daughter board there is only 4mm height for battery, and after my mod there is 9mm height for battery.
By cutting the traces at the on/off switch one side can be repurposed to turn the boost converter on and off eliminating the need for a second switch. It is also fairly simple to modify the original 9v input jack to charge and power the device. Much smaller battery management modules are available, and there are plenty of inductor-less boost converters available if you shop around. Using a 2s 7.4 volt battery is also worth considering for a number of reasons.
Thank you for the video -- it has prompted me to order one of the these kits from gianluca. Even before I've ordered the actual DSO150... hehe.
I am really like your movies, and again excellent youtube video.
can i check the code of a remote garage door contol with the frequency mode?
That is a pretty great little mod! Looks pro. Cheers
Thanks, flowers go to gianluca.
Congratulation You are the winner of the DSO 150 with gianluccas back case and the battery. Please send me a Message.
Very neat job!
Would be great if you can just attach a solar panel or 2 right on the back of a flat cell battery to keep batteries charged almost like the old calculators I think they were low voltage
Is that a standard JST connector from the switch to the PCB? Does it come with the back shell kit?
ebay link for case no longer works. Is it still available?
Thanks for all that info and the video! What version of the bios/firmware on your small scope? Where did you get it? Stay safe!
It was one of the first ones I don’t remember the version. As almost everything I buy it from banggood.
Thanks for the video! Love your content always! You deserved my subscription!
Great tutorial. I ordered direct these parts.
Good idea, the DSO150 is one of my favorite kits.
ts.electronics can you recommend a webshop for good lipo batteries?
lipo battery I have are from other stuff, I never bought one.Maybe banggood have some or a shop for RC Modells.
The problem is - MT3608 is very noisy on output, and it can affect on oscillocsope. Did you made measurments and compares with working on battery and 3608?
My transistor tester working from 3608 - asks for calibration every time I switch him on until he worked from 3608. After put 2x18650 - works fine.
For me this is a fun project and so far for the signals I test with it it’s very fine.
..nice video
Great build video. One question though, how do you charge the battery when battery is low? Is a modification to the case necessary to have access to the micro USB plug?
Sam Scalfano the case from Gianlucca has an opening for the USB Port so no mod needed.
I did the same with a iPod 4 Touch battery a 3.7 v li ion charger pack charging module and a boost converter didn't have to buy any case would have been better with that case conversion nice
The case modification is in another video its more work but also more fun.
Good video, but i have a question, where can i get a LiPo battery just like yours? Or what battery could it fit just fine for the scope?
I don't buy those battery's they come from my garbage bin, I'm always looking for broken eletronic stuff and keep parts that I maybe need.
I cannot find where to get these parts
This mod is more expensive than the oscilloscope itself :/
12.9€ + 3.5€ shipping, +extra money on the battery...that's almost 20€ just to get rid a cable you will have to connect more often than not.
Modding is fun, nothing about the price. And without cable where you still need a battery is more versatile. There is another video where I modify the case to place a battery.
so easy!!! thanks for the vid
Super video! :-)
i'm in America and want to buy the upgrade but can't figure out the ebay how can i see in english
It is here: www.ebay.com/itm/DSO150-Shell-for-battery-pack-/202666253839
Hi, i have an dso 150, and stm32 chip heat up, and at a temperature , the display makes white. How i can fix it?
B F G Electronics i think this was a Problem with the negative rail parts. Check all the voltages.
ts.electronics and what i need to make to fix it?
first check the voltages? Link to the schematics www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/Schematic_150analog.pdf
There are not many parts involved in generating the voltages. It's all around the ICL7660 and two voltage regulators for +5V and -5V this is the place where I would start. It's quiet difficult to analyse when you don't have the board on your bench.
The 3,3V rail is generated on the digital board
www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/Schematic_150main.pdf
It's the LM1117-3.3 that generate the voltage check them all. And then go ahead with checking the micro and the other stuff. You should be able to fix it as long as the micro doesn't release the magic smoke.
ts.electronics the voltage of regulator is around 3.29V and on pin 9 of micro is 3.2V, i removed the analogic board, and surprise, the micro still heat up.
i waa to get it please
Thanks for sharing and for giveaway :)
Save time go to 6:22....before bla, bla, bla