Good to know I only know the old school Cornell-Dubilere and sprague Where Capsicon are low end plagueing the market and causing many of the fine monitors and TV's to die early
Great video Peter and GREAT fix!!! I would have resorted to reflowing the choke points and assumed the clicking was the large trace delaminating from the PCB causing an "oil can effect" and the clicking was the trace popping up and down. This is where your decades of experience pays off. Very nice repair. I always learn something new! :-)
Good repair my friend.. It is always amazing how things will work for so long without a problem, then all of a sudden they will start acting up with a problem that has obviously been there for a long time. Cheers friend John
While I am watching your video step by step following you sir. I am very much excited to know what is happening inside the circuit. then I start guessing that it could be or maybe a cold soldering we call it in the philippines. But I was wrong. It’s a lost connection. Thank you very much again sir For your very nice video. I am start learning a lot from electronics because of your video and Ofcourse most probably your effort to do the best you can for us to understand. God bless and more power to you sir.
Peter, You nailed that problem like a pro! Good job as this would had been a night mare for the young ones starting out. Thanks for sharing your incredible skills Peter. 73 Buddy
Nice fix Peter...I had a Apple II memory expansion board once that supposedly was "good, checked by the tech" but it failed a memory test routine when I got it. Turned out that one of the IC sockets had one pin folded in under the socket's body and was thus not connected to the PCB. It came from the factory like that with the manufacturer's defect which made it all the way to me without having been discovered! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thank's for the video peter, Just goes to show what can be found with a bit of persistence in probing joints. I suppose that fault was there from the date of manufacture. Glad that you found it.
Well done. What a nightmare with all those bad soldering job. I do the same trick with brush or a plastic tool to gently knock on all components to find a loose connection
G'day Peter, You're an inspiration to many, including myself! NO schematic and found the problem, good on you mate. Thanks for sharing your video and big thumbs up on a good job.
I have gone through the comments and found out that some viewers don't like Peter talking about small things in great detail. Well, I've watched a few of his videos and it didn't take me long to learn that it's the way he is. So accept it.
Right at around 17 minutes in, when you were hearing the "snap" and getting power output. That "snap sounded like an arch. I would have turned off all the lights in the room and done the same test. I almost bet you would have seen the small flash of light of the bad solder joint and exactly where it was at.
Early on in the video when the voltage dropped out when you were pulling 16 amps I heard a click in the audio. At that many amps that should make a significant enough spark that you could see where the break is, making troubleshooting quite quick and easy.
I wish people my friend would leave professionals to sort out problems and not amatures because it makes your job much harder and you always find the tell tale signs that someone has been inside, and you could see the mess of solder connections which not soldered right can lead to other problems but very strange the way that componient was terminated didn't look right when to had to repair that terminal connection as we see another suscess my friend and very enjoyable to watch and learn from an expert
I remember 1 time an neighbor contacted me to say this wife was nearly electrocuted I put a tester on an S/Steel double drainer had 240 volts at it, the mans wife was nearly electrocuted and the man had to use an wooden brush to push her off it so I did investigate and found his daughter had connected an plug top wrong plus his Earth protection circuit was burned out I told him he needed an new one and i would have got it and fitted it but he told me it was to expensive, I said to him how can you put a cost on a life and 2 weeks later his house was hit by lighting and blown everything and I told him if the earth protection circuit had of been replaced this would n't have happened (73)
I bet being so close the the output transistors, the solder joints got so hot the dried up. That's the bangs and pokes testing method if all else fails. Great little tricky repair Peter, good to show that with perseverance comes results. Cheers 73 $>}
I'm following your videos for a long time in the background ;), they are always very nice to watch, even I have no idea about radio stuff ;D (but I'm into electronics sometimes at work). Nicest greetings from the german coast :).
Did you find out exactly what that component was or was intended for? My first thoughts would be an inclosed choke for an EMC sensitive area, I'm no expert tho. Or maybe a transformer to supply different voltages in different circuits?
Did you take a closer look at that transformer for connection details, Peter? I have revived my own Watson 45Amp SW Mode PSU after the FETs had died along with some diodes and a transistor. It's working well now.
Intermittent faults can be a real pain for owners as well as service personnel. I have often joked about putting a cloth over the air intakes on a troublesome server with the principle that when it becomes a charred wreck it would be replaced and that would cost less in the long term. Sadly I have never been allowed to do that.
Nice power supply, German manufacture guarantees quality. What was making the clicking noise? Arcing as the ECW made contact with the pin? Also, how was it that the pin never got soldered?
thanks for the video and well done for finding this tricky fault. my feedback is that you talk us through the process too slowly and repeat things too often. keep it up! :)
Still learning electronics, but do you think it would have still clicked ?? Even if you didn't have voltage across it? I'll have to remember to press down on components when troubleshooting
I noticed that between the one transformer and the smaller row of capacitors is something that looks like a mirror board. What is it? What is it doing in that device? Thanks!
Nice trouble shooting and an easy fix! A little below your level of expertise, nevertheless, it is always fantastic to see a new TRX Bench video. Thanks Peter!
LOL well this faults are really nasty and I'm glad that I was able to found it.. Thanks for watching and for your support very much appreciated Bora .. ! 73
Hi. Amazing skills. A little off topic. I was doing this on the HP reset thing (not sure how switching from 110v to 220v or vice-verse repairs the green light. The green light used to light up and was steady and then I shut it down, in the morning when I woke up, the green light does not light or blink even, anymore- what happened?): @ but I accidentally thought I'd switch it back to 220v but the switch was at 110v (our mains is 220v), when I plugged in the cord, something may have exploded inside the PSU, like a quick bang, not sure if there was smoke- I don't remember any white smoke coming out. I opened up the this HP DX 7200 MT Base Unit PC's Power Supply. The PSU board says (magnifying it with my iPhone 6s Plus. It seems LiteON makes the PSUs for HP): LiteON PS-5301-08HP Rev: A Caution: For continued protection against rik of fire, replace only with same type and rating of fuse. I can't see any fuse though (no cylindrical thing that has the glass in the middle). I wonder if there other fuse designs that look like transistor, resistors or capacitors? Would this have a resettable fuse. Where can it be located? I looked for its schematics I can't find one (where do you download your schematics?). I didn't find any blacked part on the PSU's board though, nothing seems to have burned (I may not be looking well enough). What could that sound be? Thank you. Could this still be repaired- I'd love to keep all the HP parts original and prefer not to buy a different PSUs (it'll be donated most likely if I get to fix it). God bless, Proverbs 31
Hello Peter, Thanks again for your videos, always top quality. Peter just an info, but the gloves You wear are electrycaly isolated, I mean, are they safety gloves ? I work alwais alone in my laboratory and I'm looking for thin safety gloves. Thanks again, all the best. Giorgio
Thanks for the video. Nice job fault finding the problem. Oh by the way that part is a relay not a choke or a transformer. Very odd way that they connected the wires like that. Anyway you got it working again and that's all that matters. Currently i'm working on a 1.2Kw computer power supply that has a fault. The unit was used for running a ham radio and it's owner tried to draw too much power from it and burnt a copper track causing the supply to stop working. By the way this Corsair AX1200i Switch mode supply cost over $600 Australian dollars.
I have a problem with my fairly new, Jetstream JTPS30LCD 13.8v power supply. It makes a loud ticking noise and only outputs 5-volts even with the voltage adjust cranked all the way up (the voltage adjustment knob doesn't seem to have any affect at all), and displays "OCP" on the display readout. I am assuming it means "over current protection" This is with nothing plugged into the output. What is the likely problem? It took the cover off and do not see anything burnt. Why would the over current protection be triggered if nothing is hooked up to the output? With the power supply turned off and unplugged I measure 120-ohms resistance between the positive and negative output terminals, not sure if this is normal but it doesn't seem like anything is shorted.
Another great story from TRX Bench. Currently I'm thinking about incorporating Dell Poweredge N750P-S0 server power supply into my ham radio shack. I'm want to power Icom IC-910H with it. It should be good enough to power base TRX as manufacturer claims it can deliver 60A at 12V. There are some hacks to increase voltage to 13.8V so especially it looks tempting to use it. My question is can I use it without fear of RF noise from switching PSU? Are there any good practices to avoid such interference? I assume top quality of this unit as it was removed from enterprise grade machine. 73 de Juliusz, SQ2JUL
Fan is cheaper than heat sink . bigger heat sink is better than fans . but it is another way cutting corners and made it cheaper and not to last as long
>=90%: isopropyl alcohol (C₃H₈O / C₃H₇OH / CH₃CHOHCH₃) /ethanol (C2H6O) (or mixed with atsetoon ) (or some "(soldering )Flux cleaner" in shop). Alcohol melt flux but not water (need to be >=80% alcohol/ethanol 90% or 99% (this mean if is 80% alchohol, tehn other 20% is water). If you but (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin) (crushed to a powder) Rosin + ethanol ~24h (fridge) then you have good soldering lique)
Can you help me? I have an esr meter checked all capacitors.. They work fine.. But power supply died after one day use.. Same issue no dc power output... it's a mean well power supply it's supposed to be well made.. What could be the problem? Company refuses to repair or replace it despite being under warranty and won't give me any schematic....
It looks like you were using some kind of fume extractor when you were removing the flux. Something blue in the background that sounded like it had a fan. Could you provide more info if it was a fume extractor? Excellent video by the way!
Hello, i want to design an SMPS with 5v USB input and dual output of 12v and 5V for Battery and Ardunio respectively. I would request you to suggest a PCB board or an IC. Thanks and Regards
Back in the day repairing CRT based TV's the line output transformer would suffer a similar kind of fault on the input line.. Not that easy to remove.. Them was the days..
hey - it's not bad quality re-work on that soldering - i think if it were cleaned up then you might change your opinion - there's just too much resin left over - i have seen FAR worse than that ...
Nothing compares to a methodical approach starting with a clean visual inspection. Really nice Job! Thanks Peter.
Thanks for watching Reb.. 73
Nippon Chemicon electrolytics are widely regarded as top-tier quality caps, no worries there!
LOL that obviously shows that this is not the brand I'm familiar to :^) Thanks for bringing light into my dark..Thanks for watching 73
Note that it's now called "United Chemi-Con", so if you see some caps labeled like that, you can be sure at least the caps are top notch.
Good to know
I only know the old school Cornell-Dubilere and sprague
Where Capsicon are low end plagueing the market and causing many of the fine monitors and TV's to die early
TRX Bench. Nichicon and Matsushita/Panasonic, from Japan, are also considered excellent.
Sadly, nowadays being one of the "best" simply means you are more often faked. :(
Good work Sir. Many years ago when I was repairing two way radio equipment we referred to this type of failure as a "Dog", seems nothing has changed!
LOL yeah it is still the same..We call it by the way "there is the dog interred" a similar phrase :^) Thanks for watching 73
Great video Peter and GREAT fix!!! I would have resorted to reflowing the choke points and assumed the clicking was the large trace delaminating from the PCB causing an "oil can effect" and the clicking was the trace popping up and down. This is where your decades of experience pays off. Very nice repair. I always learn something new! :-)
It was really a nasty issue Brian..Thanks for feed-back and for your support very much appreciated.. 73
Good repair my friend.. It is always amazing how things will work for so long without a problem, then all of a sudden they will start acting up with a problem that has obviously been there for a long time.
Cheers friend
John
Hello John, yes I agree and this psu worked for +10 years. But over the time suddenly to problem shows up...Thanks for watching friend Cheers
Great repair Peter. Another piece of equipment saved from the dumpster. Robert.
Yeah that's what it is..
While I am watching your video step by step following you sir. I am very much excited to know what is happening inside the circuit. then I start guessing that it could be or maybe a cold soldering we call it in the philippines. But I was wrong. It’s a lost connection. Thank you very much again sir For your very nice video. I am start learning a lot from electronics because of your video and Ofcourse most probably your effort to do the best you can for us to understand. God bless and more power to you sir.
you are on the right way for learning..keep going Cheers
Interesting problem & satisfactory solution. Good work.
Peter, You nailed that problem like a pro! Good job as this would had been a night mare for the young ones starting out. Thanks for sharing your incredible skills Peter. 73 Buddy
I agree for young starters issues like this are the killer...Buddy my skills are not more incredible than yours! Thanks for stopping by my friend 73
@@TRXLab what does 73 means?
Great videoas usual.Very informative. Thanks for all your great work.
Thanks for stepping by!! 73
Great repair, thanks Peter !!!
you Pasquale 73
Good problem tracking brother. Nice work.
Thanks so much.
Nice find and a top notch repair mate big thumbs up
Thank you Allan
Excellent troubleshooting, job well done.
Thank you Ether ! 73
As usual, a great job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Juan 73
Good problem tracking brother. Nice work.
Thank you
Never tricky for you Peter, job well done. Enjoyed watching.
LOL thank you Joe...73
Nice catch. Great job finding the problem.
Very well done on showing us how to track down an intermittent problem. You are right, who would suspect a bad solder joint on an inductor?
Yes it is very seldom to have problems like this.. Glad that you like my video Thanks for watching Cheers
Great repair, I like repairs that don’t cost money to fix 😊
Nice video. Thanks Peter!!!
And another one fixed. I enjoyed it, thank you.
Thank you!
Nice fix Peter...I had a Apple II memory expansion board once that supposedly was "good, checked by the tech" but it failed a memory test routine when I got it. Turned out that one of the IC sockets had one pin folded in under the socket's body and was thus not connected to the PCB. It came from the factory like that with the manufacturer's defect which made it all the way to me without having been discovered! 73 - Dino KL0S
Yeah that is how it goes and even you have bought the best product on the market it happens form time to time...Thanks for watching 73
A genius and professional person
Thank's for the video peter, Just goes to show what can be found with a bit of persistence in probing joints. I suppose that fault was there from the date of manufacture. Glad that you found it.
Thank you John! Yes the fault was there right from the beginning but didn't show up..All the best John 73
Well done. What a nightmare with all those bad soldering job. I do the same trick with brush or a plastic tool to gently knock on all components to find a loose connection
Thanks. It was very useful.
Problem solved by do everything calmly.
Cheers from Indonesia
G'day Peter, You're an inspiration to many, including myself!
NO schematic and found the problem, good on you mate. Thanks for sharing your video and big thumbs up on a good job.
Thank you Dennis! Always glad to see you! Take care my friend 73
Dennis Peake s
As the previous commenter noted, Nippon Chemi-Con are superb caps, one of the very best. I use them a lot in my repairs.
I must get them but obviously not on Ebay for some reason
I have gone through the comments and found out that some viewers don't like Peter talking about small things in great detail. Well, I've watched a few of his videos and it didn't take me long to learn that it's the way he is. So accept it.
Well thanks for that but I have to say that I surly should improve such things and I know it.
Nice repair!
Right at around 17 minutes in, when you were hearing the "snap" and getting power output. That "snap sounded like an arch. I would have turned off all the lights in the room and done the same test. I almost bet you would have seen the small flash of light of the bad solder joint and exactly where it was at.
Early on in the video when the voltage dropped out when you were pulling 16 amps I heard a click in the audio. At that many amps that should make a significant enough spark that you could see where the break is, making troubleshooting quite quick and easy.
Nice catch Peter. These nasty intermittent faults. Especially hidden ones like this, are hard to find. Have a nice weekend. 73
Yes this faults are really nasty..Thanks for watching 73
super video. danke. wieder was gelernt...
Freut mich das dir meine Videos gefallen, Markus. Danke fürs vorbeischauen. Alles Gute
Nice fix, well done.
Thank you 73
I wish people my friend would leave professionals to sort out problems and not amatures because it makes your job much harder and you always find the tell tale signs that someone has been inside, and you could see the mess of solder connections which not soldered right can lead to other problems but very strange the way that componient was terminated didn't look right when to had to repair that terminal connection as we see another suscess my friend and very enjoyable to watch and learn from an expert
Yeah you are right John, I always wonder why so many folks try try to fix a device with zero knowledge in electronics...Thanks for stepping by.73
I remember 1 time an neighbor contacted me to say this wife was nearly electrocuted I put a tester on an S/Steel double drainer had 240 volts at it, the mans wife was nearly electrocuted and the man had to use an wooden brush to push her off it so I did investigate and found his daughter had connected an plug top wrong plus his Earth protection circuit was burned out I told him he needed an new one and i would have got it and fitted it but he told me it was to expensive, I said to him how can you put a cost on a life and 2 weeks later his house was hit by lighting and blown everything and I told him if the earth protection circuit had of been replaced this would n't have happened (73)
Love your videos 👍👍
Thank you Jason!
Thats a nice psu I like it 👍
I Agree that is really a nice psu. Thanks for watching. Cheers
good find
I bet being so close the the output transistors, the solder joints got so hot the dried up. That's the bangs and pokes testing method if all else fails. Great little tricky repair Peter, good to show that with perseverance comes results. Cheers 73 $>}
Hi Tom, yes little tricky repair :^) Thanks for watching 73
A real trap for young players! Well done!
good fix...Well spotted...
Thank you Rob 73
Always thank You & great Respect! we often see defective or inoperable components.. vy 73 de DL1LEP
Very nice track down of the fault :).
Thank you
I'm following your videos for a long time in the background ;), they are always very nice to watch, even I have no idea about radio stuff ;D (but I'm into electronics sometimes at work). Nicest greetings from the german coast :).
Alles Gute in den hohen Norden :-)
Great diag!
Ahhhhhhhhh yes my TRX fix ;o)
LOL yeah that's it 73
Good jobs bro
good video, but you should show how yout do the solder also.... keep i
Did you find out exactly what that component was or was intended for? My first thoughts would be an inclosed choke for an EMC sensitive area, I'm no expert tho. Or maybe a transformer to supply different voltages in different circuits?
Did you take a closer look at that transformer for connection details, Peter? I have revived my own Watson 45Amp SW Mode PSU after the FETs had died along with some diodes and a transistor. It's working well now.
Patience pays at last. Electronics requires much patience.
so true
Nice Job
Applying IC on a socket tends to work inconsistently. Take off the socket and apply ICs soldered directly on the board.
Greetings from Indonesia
Could you not try contact cleaner first? Maybe bad connection
Nice one Peter.
Thank you Howard 73
Skip the first 6 min...1.5x speed = 9 minutes.
Another nice repair by the Petermeister! Thanks for showing. Now, get your invoice ready!
LOL nice word creation :^) Thanks for stepping by Dan 73
nice one!!: )
Intermittent faults can be a real pain for owners as well as service personnel. I have often joked about putting a cloth over the air intakes on a troublesome server with the principle that when it becomes a charred wreck it would be replaced and that would cost less in the long term. Sadly I have never been allowed to do that.
LOL yeah that is the right way :^)..Thanks for watching
great work,,,looks like nice PS but being germany thats would be the best they do qualitt work
thanks for video,, Have a great day Peter
Thank you Dennis, it is seldom these days to have products made in Germany on the bench...Thanks for watching 73
Nice power supply, German manufacture guarantees quality. What was making the clicking noise? Arcing as the ECW made contact with the pin? Also, how was it that the pin never got soldered?
on the power supply you where working on. there where 3 to 4 other solder connections that needed to be soldered
Nice power supply. Make something so beautiful and one badly soldered part messes it up.
thanks for the video and well done for finding this tricky fault. my feedback is that you talk us through the process too slowly and repeat things too often. keep it up! :)
feed back understood
Still learning electronics, but do you think it would have still clicked ?? Even if you didn't have voltage across it? I'll have to remember to press down on components when troubleshooting
I noticed that between the one transformer and the smaller row of capacitors is something that looks like a mirror board. What is it? What is it doing in that device? Thanks!
Nice trouble shooting and an easy fix! A little below your level of expertise, nevertheless, it is always fantastic to see a new TRX Bench video. Thanks Peter!
LOL well this faults are really nasty and I'm glad that I was able to found it.. Thanks for watching and for your support very much appreciated Bora .. ! 73
Hi. Amazing skills.
A little off topic. I was doing this on the HP reset thing (not sure how switching from 110v to 220v or vice-verse repairs the green light. The green light used to light up and was steady and then I shut it down, in the morning when I woke up, the green light does not light or blink even, anymore- what happened?): @
but I accidentally thought I'd switch it back to 220v but the switch was at 110v (our mains is 220v), when I plugged in the cord, something may have exploded inside the PSU, like a quick bang, not sure if there was smoke- I don't remember any white smoke coming out. I opened up the this HP DX 7200 MT Base Unit PC's Power Supply.
The PSU board says (magnifying it with my iPhone 6s Plus. It seems LiteON makes the PSUs for HP):
LiteON PS-5301-08HP
Rev: A
Caution:
For continued protection against rik of fire, replace only with same type and rating of fuse.
I can't see any fuse though (no cylindrical thing that has the glass in the middle). I wonder if there other fuse designs that look like transistor, resistors or capacitors? Would this have a resettable fuse. Where can it be located?
I looked for its schematics I can't find one (where do you download your schematics?). I didn't find any blacked part on the PSU's board though, nothing seems to have burned (I may not be looking well enough). What could that sound be?
Thank you. Could this still be repaired- I'd love to keep all the HP parts original and prefer not to buy a different PSUs (it'll be donated most likely if I get to fix it).
God bless, Proverbs 31
Hello Peter,
Thanks again for your videos, always top quality. Peter just an info, but the gloves You wear are electrycaly isolated, I mean, are they safety gloves ? I work alwais alone in my laboratory and I'm looking for thin safety gloves.
Thanks again, all the best.
Giorgio
Thanks for the video. Nice job fault finding the problem. Oh by the way that part is a relay not a choke or a transformer. Very odd way that they connected the wires like that. Anyway you got it working again and that's all that matters. Currently i'm working on a 1.2Kw computer power supply that has a fault. The unit was used for running a ham radio and it's owner tried to draw too much power from it and burnt a copper track causing the supply to stop working. By the way this Corsair AX1200i Switch mode supply cost over $600 Australian dollars.
I have a problem with my fairly new, Jetstream JTPS30LCD 13.8v power supply. It makes a loud ticking noise and only outputs 5-volts even with the voltage adjust cranked all the way up (the voltage adjustment knob doesn't seem to have any affect at all), and displays "OCP" on the display readout. I am assuming it means "over current protection" This is with nothing plugged into the output. What is the likely problem? It took the cover off and do not see anything burnt. Why would the over current protection be triggered if nothing is hooked up to the output? With the power supply turned off and unplugged I measure 120-ohms resistance between the positive and negative output terminals, not sure if this is normal but it doesn't seem like anything is shorted.
Another great story from TRX Bench. Currently I'm thinking about incorporating Dell Poweredge N750P-S0 server power supply into my ham radio shack. I'm want to power Icom IC-910H with it. It should be good enough to power base TRX as manufacturer claims it can deliver 60A at 12V. There are some hacks to increase voltage to 13.8V so especially it looks tempting to use it. My question is can I use it without fear of RF noise from switching PSU? Are there any good practices to avoid such interference? I assume top quality of this unit as it was removed from enterprise grade machine. 73 de Juliusz, SQ2JUL
Good video... Just long...
Ja, ja, sehr gut ja!
I also see questionable solder joints on the component just left of center, at 11:00...
Fan is cheaper than heat sink . bigger heat sink is better than fans . but it is another way cutting corners and made it cheaper and not to last as long
What chemical did you use to clean that hard flux residue?I believe it's not alcohol because it doesn't melt that flux,isn't it?
>=90%: isopropyl alcohol (C₃H₈O / C₃H₇OH / CH₃CHOHCH₃) /ethanol (C2H6O) (or mixed with atsetoon ) (or some "(soldering )Flux cleaner" in shop). Alcohol melt flux but not water (need to be >=80% alcohol/ethanol 90% or 99% (this mean if is 80% alchohol, tehn other 20% is water). If you but (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin) (crushed to a powder) Rosin + ethanol ~24h (fridge) then you have good soldering lique)
It is a spra called flux frei spray by Cramolin and it works perfect. Thanks for watching 73
Flux-Frei Spray 400ml manuals www.itwcp.de/product-1071411-en.html
Thanks for posting the data sheet!
nice
thanks peter
Thanks for watching 73
Why would my 13.8 volt power supply be putting out 22 volts ?
Can you help me? I have an esr meter checked all capacitors.. They work fine.. But power supply died after one day use.. Same issue no dc power output... it's a mean well power supply it's supposed to be well made.. What could be the problem? Company refuses to repair or replace it despite being under warranty and won't give me any schematic....
clean the board thoroughly then inspect it
you can't get anything better than Nippon Chemicon
Sir in SMPS board , what is fault when high voltage coming at output. Example desired value should be 40VDc but it will come 60 V DC
good job! , may I ask how long it actually took you to repair it?
Thanks Mono. A repair like this should not take any longer than 45min.. Cheers
It looks like you were using some kind of fume extractor when you were removing the flux. Something blue in the background that sounded like it had a fan. Could you provide more info if it was a fume extractor? Excellent video by the way!
Yes it is the Hakko fume extractor.
Tnx es 73
I'm a newbie to electronics so excuse my ignorance but, wouldn't the pin layout of that component suggest it's a relay ?
Do you ever use ultrasonic cleaner?
No not for radio boards. I did not find it needful so far..
Hello, i want to design an SMPS with 5v USB input and dual output of 12v and 5V for Battery and Ardunio respectively. I would request you to suggest a PCB board or an IC.
Thanks and Regards
Big voltage drop for such low current draw.
Back in the day repairing CRT based TV's the line output transformer would suffer a similar kind of fault on the input line.. Not that easy to remove.. Them was the days..
23:10 Peter becomes Mr. Carlsons Lab :).
LOL yeah why not :^)
Every electronics enthusiast knows about Mr. Carlson's Lab.
hey - it's not bad quality re-work on that soldering - i think if it were cleaned up then you might change your opinion - there's just too much resin left over - i have seen FAR worse than that ...
Sound likes germany!
If you where The Fonz, you would have hit the PSU, it would have output 200 amps and played the perfect song. lol
You are fucking good
glad that you like it Cheers
29:43 what was that scream?
unexpected fault to find and a result of poor QC by the component manufacturer, thanks for the moral "expect the unexpected"
Yes I agree expect the unexpected...Thanks for watching 73
Guys watch this video at ×2 or more play back speed, 5 minutes video to show a cold solder junction took half an hour for no reason 😬😬😬