I've had this knife for a year and a half, I had mixed feelings from the beginning, it's not the coolest design, the handle looks like a kitchen knife, but when I started using it intensively everything changed, the grip is great, it takes up little space in my backpack. Regarding edge retention I re-profiled it to 18 degrees using a coarse (320) grit edge, and it has totally changed, now it's my favorite edc knife or when I go hiking/camping.
as a diver, you’re flat out wrong about H1, the edge retention in my experience has been MUCH better than you’ve made it out to be, and you truly have no idea how valuable it is to have a knife that preforms every time, regardless of how long you forget it exists and let it rot on your kit, admittedly H1 isn’t the be all end all of knife steel, there’s a time and a place. if you’re taking a knife snorkeling just because you want to justify the purchase of said knife, you will be disappointed, if you are actually planning on diving the salt series is fantastic, buy it, let it rot on your bcd, use it, sharpen it once a month or less
This video is bad! I don't have the knife so I can't speak for the model. But H1, and what you said about it's edge holding abilities...that is just wrong! You either do not know how to sharpen or do not know how to use a knife. I know "it's your opinion and your findings" but your opinion is wrong and your findings are made up! I know that because I actually used H1 and sharpened H1. My curiosity here is: why spread misinformation?
Don't know what to tell you man, all my H1 knives (salt 2 serrate yellow. salt 2 all black, pacific salt 2 all black, enuff salt, ARK, and a aqua salt like yours) have retain their edge pretty decently,. the serrated ones have been cutting banana shipping (those are tough as nails) carboard and 1/3 inch roap for 4 years and they are still going! They may not retain an edge like my S30v or VG 10 or M4 blades, but I haven't have an experience like yours. As a matter of fact, I need to "baby sit" the other ones down here on Costa Rica, because this tropical humidity will get them rusted in a beat. To be fair I will admit that I rather buy the new salt versions in LC200N (already got a Siren & a Subway Bowie) or Magnacut, and I believe that will proof you that i agree with you in some way, but for me H1 has not been that bad
Well, in my case, I was in the market for a longer blade, rustproof, lightweight folder to carry on ocean beach walks for....ya know, keeping bad situations from getting worse than they're already going to be. So, my Pacific Salt 2 works for me. Cheers.
If you ever use knives hard in a salt water environment (as it is designed to) you'd be willing to trade all sorts of traits for the corrosion resistance. And the title of this video would be different!
Try coarse grit edge (300-400), lower your sharpening angle (reprofile it, it's gonna be worth it) and then see magical things happen, I bet you'll see HUUUUGE difference in terms of edge retention. Take care!
This is actually my favorite knife 😂 I do fish the Gulf nearly every weekend though. The paper wheels are this things best friend, and a ceramic and jade bar for field honing
Not Hydrogen! It’s Nitrogen instead of Carbon. Also - Carbon itself doesn’t “rust”. Rust is oxidized iron (Fe) and rust’s chemical formula: Fe2O3 Rust is hydrated ferric oxide AKA iron oxide. 4Fe + 3O2 + 6H2O -> 4Fe(OH)3 It does hold an edge… it’s just doesn’t hold elan edge good for the first use. Like heat-treating with carbon steels, sharpening/abrasion tempers H1 steel - therefore with every sharpening, you also hardening the edge making it harder, tougher, holding an edge longer and longer.
I had an H1 Spyderco and it only took 3 years to become work hard hardened. The new H1 is even better! Today, it should be much better, but go with the LC200N if you just can't bring yourself to get another H1! Good luck!👍🏼
I didn't know the H1 has improved. I've had the Dragonfly in H1 for about a year with it attached to a neck Kydex holster and had no need to take it off except for going to the doctor. Showered with it and sweated with it, no issues. Still, it does get dull quickly. Just got the Spyderco Subway Bowie in LC200N. Love the design of that knife and the sheath is excellent. It's now my new every day wear neck knife. Haven't used it enough to compare how long the sharpness lasts but I assume it will be much better from the info I'm getting on that steel.
@@latetodagame1892 I can find that Spyderco did testing with H2 steel to see if it can improve things but I can't find anything about them improving their H1. My Dragonfly worked 'ok' but it was no big deal to quickly sharpen it once a week to keep the edge and tip as sharp as I like it. I can see why many complain how it does not stay sharp because in certain situations, constant sharpening could be a pain. I'll go by what you've seen. Maybe Spyderco has the same properties but changed something in manufacturing that gave improvement.
@@2fast2block unfortunately both of mine are lost! However, when I received the second one it was obvious. And I looked for a RUclips vid on it, but never found one. The steel is thinner and solid. I felt like it was under bd1, but it was harder than vg10. Nutnfancy has shown interviews with Sal and Sal has always said that the company was about constant improvement. I think his son has taken that to heart.
@@latetodagame1892 when many reviews are looked at with the knives with H1, they typically have mainly 5 stars or 4 stars. Many admit the steel is not best for keeping an edge but certainly good enough that when it does get dull, it's so fast and easy to resharpen. Many like it in the serrated blade. So with that many good reviews, including mine, I see that all knives have their trade offs. So Spyderco is doing something right with their H1.
Planning on getting the full seratted edge. Im a mariner so im on a boat in brackesh/salt water for 14 days at a time and need something to cut 2 to 2.5 inch thick rope and when it needs to be cut it needs to be cut quickly so hopefully it can do it well. I carried a spyderco since i was 17 so im trying to avoid switching brands now lmao
Nice review. Gave you a sub and like. Yeah, the H1 does get dull and I just got a neck knife in LC200N, the Subway Bowie. LOVE the knife and sheath. They did it right on that combo for sure. The sheath holds the knife solid, NO wiggle and NO chance of it coming out by accident. Why they don't make quality sheaths for all their knives, I don't know. I'd rather pay more than get that silly plastic stuff.
That’s really weird because I’ve carried a h1 spy derecho for 10 years edc hiking camping everything use it really hard on a daily basis break down boxes too and I’ve never had edge retention problems, maybe a lemon ?
This guy is useless. This exact knife is on my riggers belt right now. I dive with it and use it as my deck knife. No one uses these things as hard as a diver offshore. The king of work knives. Just ordered the spider edge.
As a professional feee hand sharpener and lover of all things spyderco... except H1, the gummy worm of all steels... it feels terrible on the stones ALL stone types it doesn't matter the type of stone it just feels bad on them I will say H1 does the best on sintered alox ceramic stones as far burr control and getting the longest lasting edge possible sintered ceramics give H1 a longer lasting edge. I don't know why that is but in my H1 edge retention tests sharpened on sintered ceramic stones increased the H1s edge retention over the same knife done on diamond plates, bonded diamond stones, sic, alox, metallic bonded cbn the sintered ceramic stone edges consistently cut 30 to 35% longer over the other stones. I guess the micro serrations the sintered ceramics cut in to the steel just do better on H1 then the micro serrations other abrasives cut in it. Another thing I can say is H1 does work harden without a shadow of a doubt. I have sharpened a H1 dragonfly for a local guy and over 2 years or so and 10 to 12 sharpening the last couple sharpenings I could clearly feel the steel is much harder then H1 typically is. On diamond stones H1 feels like it's smearing its so soft, you can feel the diamonds digging in to it big time, the last couple sharpenings on that DF the H1 felt skatey on the stones like hard 440c feels. I called him up and asked him could I do a cut test to see if since it had work hardened if the edge retention changed and he told me I could. So I did my normal card board cut test and it did to within about 3% of what H1 typically goes in that test so even tho it clearly gets harder as it's used edge retention didn't change a lick. I call H1 the gummy worm steel, that's what it is a fricking gummy worm that's been left in a hot car.. I hate sharpening it, because it really loves to hang on to the burr for dear life and it's pointless to sharpen anyhow because as soon as you cut a piece of cotton candy with it it's dull. I'm glad to know spyderco has stopped using it. LC200N will give you are the corrosion resistance you need and is a great steel all around.. yes it's not stain proof like H1 but who really needs a steel to be completely corrosion proof? It's just not needed. You can leave Lc200n in the live well on your offshore boat here in Florida for a year and it will be fine when you take it out and clean it up.. No one should ever waste their money on a knife in H1. People that have never used it don't really understand how poor the edge retention is.. like 5 dollar gas station knives that aren't even heat treated will have edge retention that is equal to H1 and I'm being for real saying that... get some Kershaw 3cr13mov and it will have vastly better edge retention then H1. Another thing with H1 is it has incredibly poor edge stability.. if you take your edge bevel to like 17dps and cut a couple pieces of card board and check you will feel the apex as rolled over the the side, a few passes on a strop will bring it right back to and the apex will roll right over again on the next cut. If you don't believe me try it. You need the edge bevel at 21-22dps in order for the apex to not roll over as soon as you cut anything with it. If you need H1 to give you its best edge retention you need to do a slight convexed bevel. It will increase the edge retention a lot, still completely unacceptable edge retention even by 8cr13mov standards but it will get the most out of your H1. When I sharpen H1 for clients I do it like this, I set a 20dps flat V bevel on a shapton glass 120, then right over to a spyderco medium ceramic and I lightly convex the 20dps V bevel I put on it while I'm finishing it on that stone. It's the only stone I finish H1 on and I never take it past the Med as the fine or X fine will slick the edge right off making it have no bite. That edge gives it edge retention performance that is hand n hand with well done 8cr. Again totally unacceptable in today's world of high performance steels but it's as good as your gonna get from H1. Long post I know Just trying to help anyone out that has H1 and is trying to get the most out of it. The edge I just explained can be maintained for a very long time (so long as you get no chips or rolls in the apex) with a simple piece of newspaper being used as a stropping media, h1 strops very well on Newpaper. Hope this helps some poor soul out who got some H1 and hates it lol... at least you will get the max out of it with this sharpening method and with some newspaper wrapped around something flat to use as strop you will be able to bring the edge back to hair popping pretty much forever so long as you don't damage the edge.
Weirdly, I've been carrying some version of a Delica as my main edc knife for 25 years, and my favorite by far was a dearly loved and much used and abused Atlantic Salt version with H1 steel. It was fully serrated, so maybe H1 works better as a serrated edge? I never fussed with keeping the edge super sharp, but it seemed to only take a quick touch up to get a reasonable edge really easily. As a side note, all the major knife companies make serrations that only work well for left-handers, for right-handers it's like using a chisel upside-down. I'm left-handed myself, so that's fine by me, but I've never understood that.
It’s because when your right handed the left side of the knife is what you look at the most. It’s known as the presentation side that’s where they usually put most of the significant branding and labels. So having the separations on their side makes it look better. But I agree it doesn’t make much sense. And in my experience serrations do tend to increase and retention to do their geometry.
@@knifedr.3689 Oh, wow, I had no idea but that makes sense. That's crazy and really dumb, lol. I've always heard people say things about serrated knives not being any good for cutting wood, just for rope. But a good serrated knife used left-handed is a joy to use, it just shreds effortlessly. On a bet I've carved a hunk of 2X4 into a toothpick in less than 5 minutes, using a not-especially-sharp serrated Delica. I'd never get the same performance out of a non-serrated blade of that size, but also using it right-handed is just an exercise in frustration. Haven't knife designers ever used a wood chisel? If you use it upside down you can't control the blade, it just dives in too quick and jams in place, and the same exact physics happen with serrated knives.
Professional diver here... Spend 4-6 hours per day 5-6 days per week underwater. I use a titanium blade knife. I hate titanium blades, but I don't have time to fiddle with my knife daily... I just need it to be operational when I need it. Oh, and they infused the steel with nitrogen, not hydrogen.
The clue is in the name, testing this knife on cardboard??? Knife reviews like this are pointless, a bit like saying the McLaren Formula One car is rubbish because it doesn't work off road. I have several knives in H1, both plain and spydie edge, they are great for the purpose that they were designed for which is use in and around salt water. People who use these knives for their intended purpose have no problem spending a few minutes on the edge when needed, trading a little bit of edge retention for a blade that won't rust is worth it for me and having read the comments for most other H1 knife users too. If you want to cut lots of cardboard, then yes, there are better steels for that purpose but that isn't what this knife is for.
Hello! I see you have the Street Bowie. Does your stock sheath dull the blade? I would love to hear your feedback. Mine gets duller. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. To answer your question. Yes, my stock sheet does dull blade on both My St., Bowie and my Aqua salt. I go into all of that and more in my video on the street Bowie so if you have time I recommend checking it out. I appreciate the interaction.
Feel the same way about this knife. I lave the knife, but I hate the steel. My favorite fishing and snorkeling knife is the Morakniv bushcraft stainless, with the plastic sheet.
Sharpen a knife after each use? Sound like how people have used knives for thousands and thousands of years. Nothing new. Also reprofiling works very well as others have pointed out. Great steel, great product, requires some creativity or a willingness to sharpen your knife. Not a problem for me.
Your very inexperienced ! If you wanted something that will cut endlessly you should have gotten the full serrated model. Sorry but this is not a fillet knife! Knives have a specific purpose, you do not seem to appreciate that...
The main purpose of a knife is to cut.....not rust prevention.....I should not have to reprofile a knife so that it cuts....the manufacturer needs to do that.....
As a working commercial diver in the dive industry, I can tell you this guy has no idea what he's talking about!
agreed!
I've had this knife for a year and a half, I had mixed feelings from the beginning, it's not the coolest design, the handle looks like a kitchen knife, but when I started using it intensively everything changed, the grip is great, it takes up little space in my backpack. Regarding edge retention I re-profiled it to 18 degrees using a coarse (320) grit edge, and it has totally changed, now it's my favorite edc knife or when I go hiking/camping.
as a diver, you’re flat out wrong about H1, the edge retention in my experience has been MUCH better than you’ve made it out to be, and you truly have no idea how valuable it is to have a knife that preforms every time, regardless of how long you forget it exists and let it rot on your kit, admittedly H1 isn’t the be all end all of knife steel, there’s a time and a place. if you’re taking a knife snorkeling just because you want to justify the purchase of said knife, you will be disappointed, if you are actually planning on diving the salt series is fantastic, buy it, let it rot on your bcd, use it, sharpen it once a month or less
This video is bad!
I don't have the knife so I can't speak for the model.
But H1, and what you said about it's edge holding abilities...that is just wrong! You either do not know how to sharpen or do not know how to use a knife.
I know "it's your opinion and your findings" but your opinion is wrong and your findings are made up! I know that because I actually used H1 and sharpened H1.
My curiosity here is: why spread misinformation?
I’ve had my H-1 since 2008 and have used it extensively. I honestly just use honing steel now to keep it sharp.
Don't know what to tell you man, all my H1 knives (salt 2 serrate yellow. salt 2 all black, pacific salt 2 all black, enuff salt, ARK, and a aqua salt like yours) have retain their edge pretty decently,. the serrated ones have been cutting banana shipping (those are tough as nails) carboard and 1/3 inch roap for 4 years and they are still going!
They may not retain an edge like my S30v or VG 10 or M4 blades, but I haven't have an experience like yours. As a matter of fact, I need to "baby sit" the other ones down here on Costa Rica, because this tropical humidity will get them rusted in a beat.
To be fair I will admit that I rather buy the new salt versions in LC200N (already got a Siren & a Subway Bowie) or Magnacut, and I believe that will proof you that i agree with you in some way, but for me H1 has not been that bad
Well, in my case, I was in the market for a longer blade, rustproof, lightweight folder to carry on ocean beach walks for....ya know, keeping bad situations from getting worse than they're already going to be. So, my Pacific Salt 2 works for me. Cheers.
If you ever use knives hard in a salt water environment (as it is designed to) you'd be willing to trade all sorts of traits for the corrosion resistance. And the title of this video would be different!
Amen, I dive for a living. Nearly every day. I keep a titanium blade on me just because "daily knife maintenance" is not something that is practical.
I rarely comment on videos, but I stopped watching when you started explaining that carbon rusts.
Try coarse grit edge (300-400), lower your sharpening angle (reprofile it, it's gonna be worth it) and then see magical things happen, I bet you'll see HUUUUGE difference in terms of edge retention. Take care!
What angle would you suggest?
thank you for honest review
You’re welcome, I really do wish it was a good knife.
This is actually my favorite knife 😂
I do fish the Gulf nearly every weekend though. The paper wheels are this things best friend, and a ceramic and jade bar for field honing
The serrated versions are the ones that work hardened
Not Hydrogen! It’s Nitrogen instead of Carbon.
Also - Carbon itself doesn’t “rust”. Rust is oxidized iron (Fe) and rust’s chemical formula: Fe2O3
Rust is hydrated ferric oxide AKA iron oxide.
4Fe + 3O2 + 6H2O -> 4Fe(OH)3
It does hold an edge… it’s just doesn’t hold elan edge good for the first use. Like heat-treating with carbon steels, sharpening/abrasion tempers H1 steel - therefore with every sharpening, you also hardening the edge making it harder, tougher, holding an edge longer and longer.
I had an H1 Spyderco and it only took 3 years to become work hard hardened.
The new H1 is even better!
Today, it should be much better, but go with the LC200N if you just can't bring yourself to get another H1!
Good luck!👍🏼
I didn't know the H1 has improved. I've had the Dragonfly in H1 for about a year with it attached to a neck Kydex holster and had no need to take it off except for going to the doctor. Showered with it and sweated with it, no issues. Still, it does get dull quickly. Just got the Spyderco Subway Bowie in LC200N. Love the design of that knife and the sheath is excellent. It's now my new every day wear neck knife. Haven't used it enough to compare how long the sharpness lasts but I assume it will be much better from the info I'm getting on that steel.
@@2fast2block I got a new H1 Salt and it was great. The old steel used to be like or worse than a Swiss army knife
@@latetodagame1892 I can find that Spyderco did testing with H2 steel to see if it can improve things but I can't find anything about them improving their H1. My Dragonfly worked 'ok' but it was no big deal to quickly sharpen it once a week to keep the edge and tip as sharp as I like it. I can see why many complain how it does not stay sharp because in certain situations, constant sharpening could be a pain. I'll go by what you've seen. Maybe Spyderco has the same properties but changed something in manufacturing that gave improvement.
@@2fast2block unfortunately both of mine are lost!
However, when I received the second one it was obvious. And I looked for a RUclips vid on it, but never found one. The steel is thinner and solid. I felt like it was under bd1, but it was harder than vg10.
Nutnfancy has shown interviews with Sal and Sal has always said that the company was about constant improvement. I think his son has taken that to heart.
@@latetodagame1892 when many reviews are looked at with the knives with H1, they typically have mainly 5 stars or 4 stars. Many admit the steel is not best for keeping an edge but certainly good enough that when it does get dull, it's so fast and easy to resharpen. Many like it in the serrated blade. So with that many good reviews, including mine, I see that all knives have their trade offs. So Spyderco is doing something right with their H1.
Planning on getting the full seratted edge. Im a mariner so im on a boat in brackesh/salt water for 14 days at a time and need something to cut 2 to 2.5 inch thick rope and when it needs to be cut it needs to be cut quickly so hopefully it can do it well. I carried a spyderco since i was 17 so im trying to avoid switching brands now lmao
Nice review. Gave you a sub and like. Yeah, the H1 does get dull and I just got a neck knife in LC200N, the Subway Bowie. LOVE the knife and sheath. They did it right on that combo for sure. The sheath holds the knife solid, NO wiggle and NO chance of it coming out by accident. Why they don't make quality sheaths for all their knives, I don't know. I'd rather pay more than get that silly plastic stuff.
That’s really weird because I’ve carried a h1 spy derecho for 10 years edc hiking camping everything use it really hard on a daily basis break down boxes too and I’ve never had edge retention problems, maybe a lemon ?
My understanding is the "work-hardening" occurs when they make the serrations on serrated versions.
This guy is useless. This exact knife is on my riggers belt right now. I dive with it and use it as my deck knife. No one uses these things as hard as a diver offshore. The king of work knives. Just ordered the spider edge.
As a professional feee hand sharpener and lover of all things spyderco... except H1, the gummy worm of all steels... it feels terrible on the stones ALL stone types it doesn't matter the type of stone it just feels bad on them I will say H1 does the best on sintered alox ceramic stones as far burr control and getting the longest lasting edge possible sintered ceramics give H1 a longer lasting edge. I don't know why that is but in my H1 edge retention tests sharpened on sintered ceramic stones increased the H1s edge retention over the same knife done on diamond plates, bonded diamond stones, sic, alox, metallic bonded cbn the sintered ceramic stone edges consistently cut 30 to 35% longer over the other stones. I guess the micro serrations the sintered ceramics cut in to the steel just do better on H1 then the micro serrations other abrasives cut in it.
Another thing I can say is H1 does work harden without a shadow of a doubt. I have sharpened a H1 dragonfly for a local guy and over 2 years or so and 10 to 12 sharpening the last couple sharpenings I could clearly feel the steel is much harder then H1 typically is. On diamond stones H1 feels like it's smearing its so soft, you can feel the diamonds digging in to it big time, the last couple sharpenings on that DF the H1 felt skatey on the stones like hard 440c feels. I called him up and asked him could I do a cut test to see if since it had work hardened if the edge retention changed and he told me I could. So I did my normal card board cut test and it did to within about 3% of what H1 typically goes in that test so even tho it clearly gets harder as it's used edge retention didn't change a lick.
I call H1 the gummy worm steel, that's what it is a fricking gummy worm that's been left in a hot car.. I hate sharpening it, because it really loves to hang on to the burr for dear life and it's pointless to sharpen anyhow because as soon as you cut a piece of cotton candy with it it's dull.
I'm glad to know spyderco has stopped using it. LC200N will give you are the corrosion resistance you need and is a great steel all around.. yes it's not stain proof like H1 but who really needs a steel to be completely corrosion proof? It's just not needed. You can leave Lc200n in the live well on your offshore boat here in Florida for a year and it will be fine when you take it out and clean it up..
No one should ever waste their money on a knife in H1. People that have never used it don't really understand how poor the edge retention is.. like 5 dollar gas station knives that aren't even heat treated will have edge retention that is equal to H1 and I'm being for real saying that... get some Kershaw 3cr13mov and it will have vastly better edge retention then H1.
Another thing with H1 is it has incredibly poor edge stability.. if you take your edge bevel to like 17dps and cut a couple pieces of card board and check you will feel the apex as rolled over the the side, a few passes on a strop will bring it right back to and the apex will roll right over again on the next cut. If you don't believe me try it. You need the edge bevel at 21-22dps in order for the apex to not roll over as soon as you cut anything with it.
If you need H1 to give you its best edge retention you need to do a slight convexed bevel. It will increase the edge retention a lot, still completely unacceptable edge retention even by 8cr13mov standards but it will get the most out of your H1.
When I sharpen H1 for clients I do it like this, I set a 20dps flat V bevel on a shapton glass 120, then right over to a spyderco medium ceramic and I lightly convex the 20dps V bevel I put on it while I'm finishing it on that stone. It's the only stone I finish H1 on and I never take it past the Med as the fine or X fine will slick the edge right off making it have no bite.
That edge gives it edge retention performance that is hand n hand with well done 8cr. Again totally unacceptable in today's world of high performance steels but it's as good as your gonna get from H1.
Long post I know Just trying to help anyone out that has H1 and is trying to get the most out of it.
The edge I just explained can be maintained for a very long time (so long as you get no chips or rolls in the apex) with a simple piece of newspaper being used as a stropping media, h1 strops very well on Newpaper. Hope this helps some poor soul out who got some H1 and hates it lol... at least you will get the max out of it with this sharpening method and with some newspaper wrapped around something flat to use as strop you will be able to bring the edge back to hair popping pretty much forever so long as you don't damage the edge.
Weirdly, I've been carrying some version of a Delica as my main edc knife for 25 years, and my favorite by far was a dearly loved and much used and abused Atlantic Salt version with H1 steel. It was fully serrated, so maybe H1 works better as a serrated edge? I never fussed with keeping the edge super sharp, but it seemed to only take a quick touch up to get a reasonable edge really easily.
As a side note, all the major knife companies make serrations that only work well for left-handers, for right-handers it's like using a chisel upside-down. I'm left-handed myself, so that's fine by me, but I've never understood that.
It’s because when your right handed the left side of the knife is what you look at the most. It’s known as the presentation side that’s where they usually put most of the significant branding and labels. So having the separations on their side makes it look better. But I agree it doesn’t make much sense. And in my experience serrations do tend to increase and retention to do their geometry.
@@knifedr.3689 Oh, wow, I had no idea but that makes sense. That's crazy and really dumb, lol. I've always heard people say things about serrated knives not being any good for cutting wood, just for rope. But a good serrated knife used left-handed is a joy to use, it just shreds effortlessly. On a bet I've carved a hunk of 2X4 into a toothpick in less than 5 minutes, using a not-especially-sharp serrated Delica. I'd never get the same performance out of a non-serrated blade of that size, but also using it right-handed is just an exercise in frustration. Haven't knife designers ever used a wood chisel? If you use it upside down you can't control the blade, it just dives in too quick and jams in place, and the same exact physics happen with serrated knives.
Could be the case 👌🤔
I just ordered an aqua-salt for diving… let’s see the dive knife review please.
This week’s knife has already been picked. But next week I will do the dive knife.
@@knifedr.3689 Thanks, looking forward to it.
Professional diver here... Spend 4-6 hours per day 5-6 days per week underwater. I use a titanium blade knife. I hate titanium blades, but I don't have time to fiddle with my knife daily... I just need it to be operational when I need it. Oh, and they infused the steel with nitrogen, not hydrogen.
The "knife Dr." Isn't going to make a handle for his knife with a chewed up handle?
The clue is in the name, testing this knife on cardboard??? Knife reviews like this are pointless, a bit like saying the McLaren Formula One car is rubbish because it doesn't work off road. I have several knives in H1, both plain and spydie edge, they are great for the purpose that they were designed for which is use in and around salt water. People who use these knives for their intended purpose have no problem spending a few minutes on the edge when needed, trading a little bit of edge retention for a blade that won't rust is worth it for me and having read the comments for most other H1 knife users too. If you want to cut lots of cardboard, then yes, there are better steels for that purpose but that isn't what this knife is for.
@5:30 so Salt knives are impervious to rust, but don't let them near the family dog! 🤣
Hello! I see you have the Street Bowie. Does your stock sheath dull the blade? I would love to hear your feedback. Mine gets duller. Thanks for the video.
Aqua salt sheath looks like it's made from same material. Also my SBeat sheath dulls the knife, it loses edge after 5 unsheathings.
Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. To answer your question. Yes, my stock sheet does dull blade on both My St., Bowie and my Aqua salt. I go into all of that and more in my video on the street Bowie so if you have time I recommend checking it out. I appreciate the interaction.
The steel does get harder as you sharpen it !!!! So remember that
Go with the serrated model.
Magnacut or LC200N should be much better.
Feel the same way about this knife. I lave the knife, but I hate the steel. My favorite fishing and snorkeling knife is the Morakniv bushcraft stainless, with the plastic sheet.
Sharpen a knife after each use? Sound like how people have used knives for thousands and thousands of years. Nothing new. Also reprofiling works very well as others have pointed out. Great steel, great product, requires some creativity or a willingness to sharpen your knife. Not a problem for me.
Your very inexperienced ! If you wanted something that will cut endlessly you should have gotten the full serrated model. Sorry but this is not a fillet knife! Knives have a specific purpose, you do not seem to appreciate that...
dude, send it back
I would consider it, But I’ve had it for four years I don’t think they take it, lol.
Spyderco waterway.
The main purpose of a knife is to cut.....not rust prevention.....I should not have to reprofile a knife so that it cuts....the manufacturer needs to do that.....
That handles not comfortable at all it's got hotspots galore