As usual, another home run Randy. Keep up the good work! By the way, the threaded hole on the side of the float/fuel bowl, we used to refer to as the "peep" hole. Many blessings!
You are 100% right ... Too much Fuel pressure will push past Needls and seats Todays Dodgy unchecked and mass produced pumps ... will stuff up what was supposed to be a Quick fix (bolt on and away you go) Holley Improvement ... Thanks for sharing your knowledge, time and experience 👍👍 🇦🇺
Great information sir, the other day I tried to adjust my float levels because the other day when I would come to a semi aggressive stop the car would want to die When I looked in the sight windows I noticed the fuel level way up top so I adjusted the needles but went way too much and ended up flooding the ever loving hell out of the carb. I tried putting them back where they were but now fuel just pisses out of those two vent stacks. The car sat for a long time and wasn’t driven very much the past year. The little gaskets that go around those sight pins or whatever just crumbled away to pieces. So I ordered a full rebuild kit and I now have more confidence going through it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Please let me know if you get stuck , you might won't to watch my video on the Holley 650 double pumper, let me know if I can help. Also check your fuel pressure , but it sounds like it needs rebuilding fore sure, that might take care of all your problems.
Love your videos and the way you explain things. Kinda surprised your list of flooding causes didn’t include blown power valves, but maybe that’s not as common as the others you did mention. Keep up the great work!
Great video. One issue I ran into that may be less common- I had a Holley 80457 run extremely rich- sub 10 AFR. Fuel would flow, not trickle, but flow from the boosters even at low rpms- 1500 and below. Fuel pressure was just below 6 psi. Replaced the needle and seat. Then swapped out to an adjustable needle and seat bowl with a sight hole to verify fuel level was just below sight hole. Turns out the gasket between the main body and metering block was bad. Replaced the gasket and the car ran great with AFR’s in the mid 13’s to low 14’s.
great info. I have a Ford 250 6cyl that has sit for several years. I tried to start it up the other day and it was pumping gas up through the carb. I'll try several of your easy to reach solutions before I try to pull it apart. Thanks so much, very informative
That should be a yfa Carter 1 barrel carburetor , I feel sure it will need a rebuild kit , and check the float and first before you do anything to the carburetor check fuel pressure , they are bad about pumping to much fuel pressure , should have under 6 psi while cranking.engine over , always disable ignition before cranking and be careful. Also check fuel make sure it don't smell bad usually will go bad after about a year.
Never assume the fuel pressure is correct never, I have seen stock fuel pumps push over 10psi, if the internal bypass hole in the pump is stoped up it will pump to much pressure period , some wise words from my auto shop teacher , he would tell us that when we assume we make an ass out you and me lol ass-u-me. Electric pumps do same thing if there equiped with a spring loaded bypass valve, and it' sticks in the bottom of the pump check fuel pressure carefully and if possible , when the carb is flooding .Hope this helps
Hey randy. didn't know where to put this question so I put it here. I have an 81770 vac sec. on a 440 dodge. I have asked, watched, read, and literally got two different answers from Holley . . . this carb has sight glass, where should the fuel level be ? ( obviously when the car is running ) , some say just above the bottom, some say in the center. Did see where if you put a bowl with a screw plug against a sight glass bowl, the bottom of the plug, like on a 4160, is about even to the center of the glass. Right now I'm at about a third up the glass, running. I trust ya what ever you tell me . . . .
There is several different fuel level setting on sight glasses , I would have measured it with a older bowl just like you did a list# 3310 and set level half way. Be careful on some of the older 4160 secondary bowls have a lower float level screw setting than the primaries not all just some. Hope this helps.
Would you a quick video on making the accelerator pump check ball retainer re-retain? Mine keeps coming loose. Strong pump after rebuild for a few times then the retainer comes free- losing pump shot and flooding. Older Holley. Thank you well done videos!
Yep, I have a Fox Mustang that has been sitting for a couple years that I bought off a friend. Has an electric pump with one of those junk FPR's w/ a 650 DP that you warned about years ago. I went over everything else the other day and finally dumped some gas in the tank to see if it would fire. Reads zero on the new FP guage but was pissing down the venturis as soon as it got power from the battery. My favorite car was my 84 Grand Prix that just started running rich one day when I was a dumb kid and didn't have internet. I traded it for a crappy car that could get me to work in a hurry and am still salty that it turned out that the mechanical fuel pump was the only issue. I felt some type of way when I heard that the guys dad scrapped it because it was "Just an old car" when the kid went to the military. I'd still be driving it if I had the choice.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 You've saved me a lot of aggravation over these past couple years, so I really appreciate the reply. I've rebuilt transmissions and sync'd up motorcycle carbs from books before YT. Your style of explanation is spot on though. HUGE respect.
Steven if your asking the difference between gas, and alcohol and e85 , all have their advantages and disadvantages . Alcohol is very corrosive , and draws moisture but the engine will run cooler and make more power, less chance of detonation . When we raced open wheel modifieds we learned quick, that alcohol was the way to go due to extra cooling and power, but again very very corrosive and the consumption of alcohol is 2.2 to 2.5 greater than gas. E85 would be another option but still corrosive. On a street car I would go with gas unless you need alcohol for cooling or power or some other reason , just to much up keep for me, but then I'm a older guy. Hope this helps. Let me know if this answered your question.
It's worth mentioning that Holley carb flooding is often caused by crappy kits. I learned that the hard way. I swear by Carquest parts most of the time but never use a Carquest Holley carb kit. The Holley gaskets are thick, the Carquest kits are paper.
On the tapper you talk about being bad, on the bowl's casting where the needle threads in. So, what your saying is, if the casting is deformed or there is corrosion in there, then the O ring on the needle won't seal and fuel will flood the bowl? Now, on the secondary bowl, if it floods how does it flood the motor? The butterflies stay closed untill the vacuum operates them. Does fuel just leak through while trying to start? I think my 4160 might have a bad secondary bowl casting because, even though I have the fuel level nut turned all the way in, when I pull the plug fuel pours out everywhere. Also, the spring doesn't seem to do much. Do you see many problems with the bowl castings? I think it may be my problem. I'm just not sure. I put in a couple kits already and she won't fire. Everything thing else seems ok. I've got 6 pSI on the fuel, good compression and spark with new clean fuel. New points, plugs, rotor, wires etc. It has been running good but bogs down while running.
Flooding, to much fuel pressure, bad needle and seat or seat oring or bad casting or corrosion in bowl around the seat area, bad float that is heavy or binding or with gas leaking internally in the float makes float sink, also make sure the bowl vent is not restricted.hope this helps.
Great videos. Have help us out allot. Is it possible to buy or send you a metering block so you can put some blank plugs on it? I would be willing to pay for your time and parts. Thanks you and have a good one.
JD I'm working on one now look at my latest video (high velocity carburetor) it's a modified 600 cfm vacuum secondary , I'm not finished doing all the mods, there will be several videos.
Hi I ordered a 703-29 holley marine rebuild kit and followed your videos. They were very helpful and I thought that fixed my problem. But now I am having the same problem as before. Its flooding really bad on cold start. Last week it was running good. Today it was just pooring fuel in. Dont believe there is a fuel pump on this old boat. Turn the key off and gas still running in. What am I missing? Thanks, mike
Mike the first thing was there any sign of trash in the carb if not check floats for leaking internally, and needle an seat sealing around the orings, but always check your fuel pressure should be under 6psi, really should check fuel pressure first also make sure your carb vents are clear. Hope this helps.
Thanks for educating me on the finer points of Holley carbs. I've got a very sick Ford 460 with a Holley 4160 in a jet boat. It runs great one minute and then it gets rough and dies. It won't run long enough now to do any adjusting. My questions are, when its idling I can see fuel dripping from the ventures. The accelerator pump works fine ( thanks to your videos). Is the fuel dripping normal when running. Also, at one point I had the bowl level screws removed. Primary and secondary bowls. I cranked it and fuel went everywhere! The shut off needles work when I blow air into them. Is this a float problem or fuel pump?? Thanks so much
Clay if the fuel level is high first check fuel pressure should be 6psi or less, if that's ok , remove bowls and check, floats and needle and seats and external o ring on seat, clay check my video out on flooding , it's my second most recent video.Fuel should not be dripping out the boosters at idle , if you don't find the problem let me know.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Thank you! I'll check it out. Not sure how to check fuel PSI. I've got no gauge on the dash. I do have a regulater that I installed when I changed the fuel pump out but bypassed it when I got another pump with less PSI.
The fuel pressure tester is a pretty cheap tool usually about 15 to 25 dollars , most are fuel pressure and vacuum Gauges built together and are necessary to check fuel pressure correctly, buy one if possible. Hope this helps.
Still having problems! Engine will not start. Not even a puff! I think it floods. Not sure as the plugs are dry?? The secondary bowl is over filling. When I pull the plug, fuel pours out and I've got the adjusting nut turned all the way down clockwise to the bottom! Think it might be that taper you talk about in your video. That would mean a new bowl I think. What do you think??
Great video! Question....can you grind on those nytrophyl floats for clearance without causing it to absorb fuel with the skin gone? I had a Dominator carb flood on me to the point it hydra locked my 565 BBC engine with fuel. Lucky didnt bend a rod! Anyway, I noticed the secondary float was ground on for clearance for the main jet extensions. I figured it absorbed fuel and didnt float up. I was told by the carb builder that removing material like that was ok? I'm not buying that but looking for opinions. Thanks!
Through my life I've have built so many carbs, I've seen a lot of modified floats especially nitrophyl, floats I've seen where they have ground the float to there ideal shape and coated them with some kind of epoxy to seal it and I've seen them ground with no epoxy, now i have never personally tryed this at all. One thing if you have to apply epoxy your adding weight to your float , i don't see no reason to do this, i buy my floats already made, for drag racing I block my rear power valve and add jet extensions and buy my float made for jet extensions to stop fuel starvation . Thats for a car that leaves with the front wheels in the air. They make about any float you can imagine, i just don't see the need. Sorry took so long to get back to you.
By the way bud you can count your self lucky you didn't bend a rod or damage a piston, I've seen so many engines bend the rod then the shortened rod draws the piston down lower in the cylinder and the crank counter weight knocks the skirt off the piston mega bucks. Take care
Great content. @17:00, you talk about raising the float makes the carb richer. Is that because of increased head pressure at the main jet, due to the increased fuel height, or does it have to do with one or more of the air bleed holes in the emulsion tubes on the bowl side being covered with fuel in the main well, whereas, if the float was set correctly the fuel level in the main well would be below said holes?
There is several things, the height of the fuel level make fuel flow start earlier, and type of booster (anular) more so. The higher the fuel level in the main well makes fuel flow start early and if you have a 4 or 5 hole emulsion block can help. Hope this helps.
I got a summit dp looks just like a 4150 …I put a kit in it and can’t get it to idle down to what I want …at 1/2 turn all four corners metering blocks it’s crazy high at 1.5 or so it’s decent but still high…you think it’s gasket or think I need to leave it in the dip longer…carb sit with fuel in it for a yr or longer so I dipped it and cleaned it for couple hrs
Jason turn your idle mixture screws all the way in closed and then turn them out a couple turns if it doesn't change any thing going in or out. Then remove carb and check your gasket between throttle plate and the main body. The wrong gasket will block off the idle mixture holes, lay your gasket on the main body and check out your two outer holes to see if the gasket is covering them up. If so match up right gasket. Hope this helps. Ps let me know .
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 it was a gasket needing trimmed on couple ports it was a summit carb with a Holley kit had three base gaskets none fit it 100% I trimmed one and it’s good to go
WHAT IF YOUR HOLLEY 750 SECONDARIES ARE FLOODING BAD? AND RUNNING FUEL IN YOUR CARBURETOR? AND i CANT ADJUST THE FLOAT LEVEL AT ALL HIGHER OR LOWER? ITS FLOODED .SO BAD threw THE OVER FLOW TUBES A FEW TIMES.. I REPLACED.THE NEEDLE AND SEAT.WAS STILL NO Adjustment? I HAD IT RUNNING AT 6PSI.ON GAUGE. CARB IS ONLY.10 months.old. i am draining the oil and changing filter. Since there.may.be some.fule.got.in the oil pan.what.do i do??.please help!!!😂
Check your fuel pressure first 5psi to 6psi max with a fuel pressure tester not a small line gauge, if its back fired it can also damage the float, check your float for damage externally and leaking internally and the surface where the o ring seals the needle and seat to the fuel bowl also make sure nothing is restricting the rear vent at the top of the main body. If this don't take care of it let me know. Hope this helps.
I have a Dominator, the car is after firing so bad under hard acceleration. He led pressure with two gauges 6.5, got the idle circuit hood but what can be the cause. Everyone says it’s getting too much fuel when I step on it and unbury fuel is making the pop and bangs please help. Thanks for all you do
I need more information about your engine , ignition and ignition box , carburetor size two or three circuit , tell me compression , cylinder heads, if it's miss firing through the carb or out the exhaust, what rpm range does it miss fire, give me as much information as you can.
The spring loaded needle and seats help in rough terrain area's, we're the vehicle is being bounced around , helps keep the needle loaded on the seat, to help prevent flooding. Hope this helps.
Sir, I'm still having lots of problems with my marine 460 with a 4 barrel Holley. I've gone through the rebuild process several times. New floats, one new bowl, needle and seats etc, etc. I've got the fuel dialed down to about 6-7 PSI. The bowl levels are adjusted to the threads.. Here is my question? When Im looking into the carb and pull the throttle back, I see fuel dropping/ dripping large drops of fuel from the two ventures as well as the discharge nozzles from accelerator pump. Is that normal? What do I check to correct this? Thank you and really like your videos Clay Thomas Culleoka Tennessee
I need help I have an 850 Holley carburetor it's a double pumper I have 76ers in the front and 85 in the rear primary metering block has a power valve 6.5 and the rear has a block off for some odd reason it will run when I flip the main body backward so choke tower toward the back side I think wrong gaskets?
Check your throttle body gasket, the wrong gasket will block the idle circuit hole and keep it from idling. Match your gasket to the main body. Hope this helps.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 When I first put it together I noticed I really had to force the base plate gasket on and it had a little bit hanging over.. just put it back together last night going to put it on at lunchtime wish me luck and thank you sir
That's exactly what it was she runs beautiful 406 SBC lunati street master cam 507 lift 285 duration turbo400 373 out back and some BALD bf good riches thank you sir
have you ever had a 4150 that had lower float level on one side of the carb and higher/pretty much full up on the other? got a 450cfm 4150 that the passenger side is full up in both bowls, and the driver side is barely visible in the sight glass. i also suspect the front idle fuel mixture screws wont turn in all the way, but i dont know enough to really tell whats wrong with it
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 It does have 2 needles and 2 floats but one for each bowl. The particular carb I have is P/N HR-450 on holleys website if that helps any.
If those fuel pumps are factory stock there defective, pressure should be around 5 to 6psi no stock carburetor will hold that kind of pressure period. When the internal bypass stops up, thats whats causing the high fuel pressure.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 thanks! Just got my 3rd pump today, and this one at 5.6 psi, works great, I'm 68 and for the last 7 years I volunteer in a restoration shop for cars 1924 - 1980, one or two days a week,you got to stay busy, I was the care taker for alcatraz island ,the only maintenance worker on the island , it was hell with 5,000 tourist every day on 22 arces of island! Thanks my friend!
My 80457 is rich at idle. Changed power valve, went from 65 to 64 MJ, and adjusted floats so it just spills out with a push...so far that is...I'm thinking o-ring on the inlet valve or accelerator pump... Any suggestions?
I need more information , engine size , does it have a racing cam , how much vacuum at idle and is it only rich at idle, will the mixture screws change the idle speed?
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 It's a 350 unknown cam but it does have roller tip rockers and looks like new valve springs. I've seen as high as 18-19in with the Edelbrock 600 I took off. But only 14in with this Holley. It's bleeding fuel somewhere into the idle circuit. The carb is due a rebuild I did replace the power valve with a quicksilver 10.5 I had just to verify the leak wasn't a PV..
This is so stupid but I just bought a used xp Holly that was "turn key" and pulled the needle and steat out after it flooded my engine it had no O ring on either 😭
If you have no external float adjustment then you set the float level with the fuel bowl removed and in the inverted position ,bend the float tang to raise or lower the float to specification for your carb , usually you only need the List number to find your proper float setting, it is usually measured between the float and the inside top of fuel bowl. Hope this helps.
if i rev the engine or if im driving down the road my holley 600 runs great. but if i let it just set and idle it starts to flood after about 3 or 4 minutes sometimes it takes longer to flood closer to maybe more than 8 minutes. What could be going on?
Have you had problems with aeromotive regulators what type, Iv'e had one for a tunnel ram it was a bypass regulator that returned the fuel to the fuel tank. But that was my only personal experience. It worked excellent.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Yes…about 7 or 8 years ago I had an adjustable aeromotive regulator whose diaphragm failed in 20 miles. They sent me another and it didn’t last much longer. I ended up with a Weldon unit and have never once had an issue.
As usual, another home run Randy. Keep up the good work!
By the way, the threaded hole on the side of the float/fuel bowl, we used to refer to as the "peep" hole.
Many blessings!
Take care my friend.
You got one of the single best vidios for holly issues I've seen, nice job, thanks.
Thank you.
Great to have you back. I’ve learnt heaps from you. Look forward to more.
Thanks Scott .
I'm always amaze by your patience and passion on how you explain things. Learn a lots with your videos. Thanks so much.
Thanks Martin.
You are 100% right ...
Too much Fuel pressure will push past Needls and seats
Todays Dodgy unchecked and mass produced pumps ... will stuff up what was supposed to be a Quick fix (bolt on and away you go) Holley Improvement ...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, time and experience 👍👍
🇦🇺
You are very welcome.
Great information sir, the other day I tried to adjust my float levels because the other day when I would come to a semi aggressive stop the car would want to die
When I looked in the sight windows I noticed the fuel level way up top so I adjusted the needles but went way too much and ended up flooding the ever loving hell out of the carb.
I tried putting them back where they were but now fuel just pisses out of those two vent stacks.
The car sat for a long time and wasn’t driven very much the past year.
The little gaskets that go around those sight pins or whatever just crumbled away to pieces.
So I ordered a full rebuild kit and I now have more confidence going through it.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Please let me know if you get stuck , you might won't to watch my video on the Holley 650 double pumper, let me know if I can help. Also check your fuel pressure , but it sounds like it needs rebuilding fore sure, that might take care of all your problems.
Thank you.
Love your videos and the way you explain things. Kinda surprised your list of flooding causes didn’t include blown power valves, but maybe that’s not as common as the others you did mention. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much Sir, first time playing with a Holley and this information is invaluable.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video as always! Thank you sir! Very informative.
Your welcome
Thank you sir great video helpful 👍
Glad I could help.
Great video. One issue I ran into that may be less common- I had a Holley 80457 run extremely rich- sub 10 AFR. Fuel would flow, not trickle, but flow from the boosters even at low rpms- 1500 and below. Fuel pressure was just below 6 psi. Replaced the needle and seat. Then swapped out to an adjustable needle and seat bowl with a sight hole to verify fuel level was just below sight hole. Turns out the gasket between the main body and metering block was bad. Replaced the gasket and the car ran great with AFR’s in the mid 13’s to low 14’s.
*84057
Jerry through my years I've run into some crazy things .
man i really enjoy your videos and the sharing of knowledge
Thank you
Randy!! Let's go! Nice to see you back
Thanks bud.
I’d love to see a video specifically addressing offroad modifications to prevent flooding
What kind of off roading are you doing ?
great info. I have a Ford 250 6cyl that has sit for several years. I tried to start it up the other day and it was pumping gas up through the carb. I'll try several of your easy to reach solutions before I try to pull it apart. Thanks so much, very informative
That should be a yfa Carter 1 barrel carburetor , I feel sure it will need a rebuild kit , and check the float and first before you do anything to the carburetor check fuel pressure , they are bad about pumping to much fuel pressure , should have under 6 psi while cranking.engine over , always disable ignition before cranking and be careful. Also check fuel make sure it don't smell bad usually will go bad after about a year.
thanks a bunch for the info. very very helpful.
Glad I could help.
Never take for granted the regulator is working and have a gauge in line at the carb
I never run any carbed engine without a gauge...Saves a lot of head scratching!
I even had problem with the gauge, made me crazy, replaced and wow reset reg and fixed
Never assume the fuel pressure is correct never, I have seen stock fuel pumps push over 10psi, if the internal bypass hole in the pump is stoped up it will pump to much pressure period , some wise words from my auto shop teacher , he would tell us that when we assume we make an ass out you and me lol ass-u-me. Electric pumps do same thing if there equiped with a spring loaded bypass valve, and it' sticks in the bottom of the pump check fuel pressure carefully and if possible , when the carb is flooding .Hope this helps
🇺🇸Thank you. Good video. 😎👍🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Fred.
Very helpful. Thank you
You are most welcome.
Hey randy. didn't know where to put this question so I put it here. I have an 81770 vac sec. on a 440 dodge. I have asked, watched, read, and literally got two different answers from Holley . . . this carb has sight glass, where should the fuel level be ? ( obviously when the car is running ) , some say just above the bottom, some say in the center. Did see where if you put a bowl with a screw plug against a sight glass bowl, the bottom of the plug, like on a 4160, is about even to the center of the glass. Right now I'm at about a third up the glass, running. I trust ya what ever you tell me . . . .
There is several different fuel level setting on sight glasses , I would have measured it with a older bowl just like you did a list# 3310 and set level half way. Be careful on some of the older 4160 secondary bowls have a lower float level screw setting than the primaries not all just some. Hope this helps.
Thanks@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90
Would you a quick video on making the accelerator pump check ball retainer re-retain? Mine keeps coming loose. Strong pump after rebuild for a few times then the retainer comes free- losing pump shot and flooding. Older Holley.
Thank you well done videos!
Sometimes it's better to find a used bowl , than trying to repair it .
I ended up using a punch and a hammer the stake it back into place. Worked like a charm.
Yep, I have a Fox Mustang that has been sitting for a couple years that I bought off a friend. Has an electric pump with one of those junk FPR's w/ a 650 DP that you warned about years ago. I went over everything else the other day and finally dumped some gas in the tank to see if it would fire. Reads zero on the new FP guage but was pissing down the venturis as soon as it got power from the battery. My favorite car was my 84 Grand Prix that just started running rich one day when I was a dumb kid and didn't have internet. I traded it for a crappy car that could get me to work in a hurry and am still salty that it turned out that the mechanical fuel pump was the only issue. I felt some type of way when I heard that the guys dad scrapped it because it was "Just an old car" when the kid went to the military. I'd still be driving it if I had the choice.
Carburetor that sits up for a couple years usually needs a rebuild and possibly a regulator.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 You've saved me a lot of aggravation over these past couple years, so I really appreciate the reply. I've rebuilt transmissions and sync'd up motorcycle carbs from books before YT. Your style of explanation is spot on though. HUGE respect.
Thank you.
Great video
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching.
To compare issues normally, vs alcohol ethanol issues, applications with stock replacement issues.
Steven if your asking the difference between gas, and alcohol and e85 , all have their advantages and disadvantages . Alcohol is very corrosive , and draws moisture but the engine will run cooler and make more power, less chance of detonation . When we raced open wheel modifieds we learned quick, that alcohol was the way to go due to extra cooling and power, but again very very corrosive and the consumption of alcohol is 2.2 to 2.5 greater than gas. E85 would be another option but still corrosive. On a street car I would go with gas unless you need alcohol for cooling or power or some other reason , just to much up keep for me, but then I'm a older guy. Hope this helps. Let me know if this answered your question.
It's worth mentioning that Holley carb flooding is often caused by crappy kits.
I learned that the hard way. I swear by Carquest parts most of the time but never use a Carquest Holley carb kit. The Holley gaskets are thick, the Carquest kits are paper.
Glenn your right there is some bad parts out there.
On the tapper you talk about being bad, on the bowl's casting where the needle threads in. So, what your saying is, if the casting is deformed or there is corrosion in there, then the O ring on the needle won't seal and fuel will flood the bowl? Now, on the secondary bowl, if it floods how does it flood the motor? The butterflies stay closed untill the vacuum operates them. Does fuel just leak through while trying to start?
I think my 4160 might have a bad secondary bowl casting because, even though I have the fuel level nut turned all the way in, when I pull the plug fuel pours out everywhere. Also, the spring doesn't seem to do much.
Do you see many problems with the bowl castings? I think it may be my problem. I'm just not sure. I put in a couple kits already and she won't fire. Everything thing else seems ok. I've got 6 pSI on the fuel, good compression and spark with new clean fuel. New points, plugs, rotor, wires etc. It has been running good but bogs down while running.
Flooding, to much fuel pressure, bad needle and seat or seat oring or bad casting or corrosion in bowl around the seat area, bad float that is heavy or binding or with gas leaking internally in the float makes float sink, also make sure the bowl vent is not restricted.hope this helps.
You might need to adjust your secondary butterfies should not be that tight , that the gas won't slowly drip past the secondaries . Hope this helps
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90
Thanks Man! I really appreciate you. I order a new/ used bowl.
Replaced the float needle with a spare one and fixed the problem. Pretty sure it was the o ring that goes in the taper, it looked flattened out.
I've run in to that and always check for corrosion or a defect where the oring seals to the housing. Good luck.
Great videos. Have help us out allot. Is it possible to buy or send you a metering block so you can put some blank plugs on it? I would be willing to pay for your time and parts. Thanks you and have a good one.
Ivan hopefully I will be modifying Holley's and rebuilding them soon and I will let you know when , thanks for watching.
When you get a chance can you do a video of a vacuum secondary Holley carb you already showed e lot I didn't know Thank you
JD I'm working on one now look at my latest video (high velocity carburetor) it's a modified 600 cfm vacuum secondary , I'm not finished doing all the mods, there will be several videos.
On my dirt car I run reg on fuel lug end that returns fuel to tank and sometimes 1 with vacuum
I did that on our open wheel modified, worked great.
Hi I ordered a 703-29 holley marine rebuild kit and followed your videos. They were very helpful and I thought that fixed my problem. But now I am having the same problem as before. Its flooding really bad on cold start. Last week it was running good. Today it was just pooring fuel in. Dont believe there is a fuel pump on this old boat. Turn the key off and gas still running in. What am I missing? Thanks, mike
Mike the first thing was there any sign of trash in the carb if not check floats for leaking internally, and needle an seat sealing around the orings, but always check your fuel pressure should be under 6psi, really should check fuel pressure first also make sure your carb vents are clear. Hope this helps.
Thanks for educating me on the finer points of Holley carbs.
I've got a very sick Ford 460 with a Holley 4160 in a jet boat. It runs great one minute and then it gets rough and dies. It won't run long enough now to do any adjusting.
My questions are, when its idling I can see fuel dripping from the ventures. The accelerator pump works fine ( thanks to your videos). Is the fuel dripping normal when running. Also, at one point I had the bowl level screws removed. Primary and secondary bowls. I cranked it and fuel went everywhere! The shut off needles work when I blow air into them. Is this a float problem or fuel pump?? Thanks so much
Clay if the fuel level is high first check fuel pressure should be 6psi or less, if that's ok , remove bowls and check, floats and needle and seats and external o ring on seat, clay check my video out on flooding , it's my second most recent video.Fuel should not be dripping out the boosters at idle , if you don't find the problem let me know.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90
Thank you!
I'll check it out. Not sure how to check fuel PSI. I've got no gauge on the dash. I do have a regulater that I installed when I changed the fuel pump out but bypassed it when I got another pump with less PSI.
The fuel pressure tester is a pretty cheap tool usually about 15 to 25 dollars , most are fuel pressure and vacuum Gauges built together and are necessary to check fuel pressure correctly, buy one if possible. Hope this helps.
Still having problems! Engine will not start. Not even a puff! I think it floods. Not sure as the plugs are dry?? The secondary bowl is over filling. When I pull the plug, fuel pours out and I've got the adjusting nut turned all the way down clockwise to the bottom! Think it might be that taper you talk about in your video. That would mean a new bowl I think. What do you think??
I did install a fuel pressure gauge and it shows between 5 - 6 1/2 PSI while cranking.
Great video! Question....can you grind on those nytrophyl floats for clearance without causing it to absorb fuel with the skin gone? I had a Dominator carb flood on me to the point it hydra locked my 565 BBC engine with fuel. Lucky didnt bend a rod! Anyway, I noticed the secondary float was ground on for clearance for the main jet extensions. I figured it absorbed fuel and didnt float up. I was told by the carb builder that removing material like that was ok? I'm not buying that but looking for opinions. Thanks!
Through my life I've have built so many carbs, I've seen a lot of modified floats especially nitrophyl, floats I've seen where they have ground the float to there ideal shape and coated them with some kind of epoxy to seal it and I've seen them ground with no epoxy, now i have never personally tryed this at all. One thing if you have to apply epoxy your adding weight to your float , i don't see no reason to do this, i buy my floats already made, for drag racing I block my rear power valve and add jet extensions and buy my float made for jet extensions to stop fuel starvation . Thats for a car that leaves with the front wheels in the air. They make about any float you can imagine, i just don't see the need. Sorry took so long to get back to you.
By the way bud you can count your self lucky you didn't bend a rod or damage a piston, I've seen so many engines bend the rod then the shortened rod draws the piston down lower in the cylinder and the crank counter weight knocks the skirt off the piston mega bucks. Take care
What happens if the secondary bowl floods?
Does it flood the motor or does it do nothing until the secondaries open up?
It will flood the motor if gas is running out the boosters ,front or rear.
Great content. @17:00, you talk about raising the float makes the carb richer. Is that because of increased head pressure at the main jet, due to the increased fuel height, or does it have to do with one or more of the air bleed holes in the emulsion tubes on the bowl side being covered with fuel in the main well, whereas, if the float was set correctly the fuel level in the main well would be below said holes?
There is several things, the height of the fuel level make fuel flow start earlier, and type of booster (anular) more so. The higher the fuel level in the main well makes fuel flow start early and if you have a 4 or 5 hole emulsion block can help. Hope this helps.
I got a summit dp looks just like a 4150 …I put a kit in it and can’t get it to idle down to what I want …at 1/2 turn all four corners metering blocks it’s crazy high at 1.5 or so it’s decent but still high…you think it’s gasket or think I need to leave it in the dip longer…carb sit with fuel in it for a yr or longer so I dipped it and cleaned it for couple hrs
Jason turn your idle mixture screws all the way in closed and then turn them out a couple turns if it doesn't change any thing going in or out. Then remove carb and check your gasket between throttle plate and the main body. The wrong gasket will block off the idle mixture holes, lay your gasket on the main body and check out your two outer holes to see if the gasket is covering them up. If so match up right gasket. Hope this helps. Ps let me know .
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 it was a gasket needing trimmed on couple ports it was a summit carb with a Holley kit had three base gaskets none fit it 100% I trimmed one and it’s good to go
WHAT IF YOUR HOLLEY 750 SECONDARIES ARE FLOODING BAD? AND RUNNING FUEL IN YOUR CARBURETOR? AND i CANT ADJUST THE FLOAT LEVEL AT ALL HIGHER OR LOWER? ITS FLOODED .SO BAD threw THE OVER FLOW TUBES A FEW TIMES.. I REPLACED.THE NEEDLE AND SEAT.WAS STILL NO Adjustment? I HAD IT RUNNING AT 6PSI.ON GAUGE. CARB IS ONLY.10 months.old. i am draining the oil and changing filter. Since there.may.be some.fule.got.in the oil pan.what.do i do??.please help!!!😂
Check your fuel pressure first 5psi to 6psi max with a fuel pressure tester not a small line gauge, if its back fired it can also damage the float, check your float for damage externally and leaking internally and the surface where the o ring seals the needle and seat to the fuel bowl also make sure nothing is restricting the rear vent at the top of the main body. If this don't take care of it let me know. Hope this helps.
I have a Dominator, the car is after firing so bad under hard acceleration. He led pressure with two gauges 6.5, got the idle circuit hood but what can be the cause. Everyone says it’s getting too much fuel when I step on it and unbury fuel is making the pop and bangs please help. Thanks for all you do
I need more information about your engine , ignition and ignition box , carburetor size two or three circuit , tell me compression , cylinder heads, if it's miss firing through the carb or out the exhaust, what rpm range does it miss fire, give me as much information as you can.
most problems i have with Holleys is the float jet shews it's self closed .
I'm not sure what you're talking about the float or the needle & seat?
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 the needle and seat on the primary
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 DOES the adjusting nut and screw require a metal or paper gasket .
They make paper type gaskets and nylon gaskets. They require two gaskets per needle & seat. Hope this helps
Hey Randy, I see where Holley has regular needle and seats and spring loaded ones..what's the purpose of the spring loaded ones?
The spring loaded needle and seats help in rough terrain area's, we're the vehicle is being bounced around , helps keep the needle loaded on the seat, to help prevent flooding. Hope this helps.
Sir, I'm still having lots of problems with my marine 460 with a 4 barrel Holley. I've gone through the rebuild process several times. New floats, one new bowl, needle and seats etc, etc. I've got the fuel dialed down to about 6-7 PSI. The bowl levels are adjusted to the threads.. Here is my question?
When Im looking into the carb and pull the throttle back, I see fuel dropping/ dripping large drops of fuel from the two ventures as well as the discharge nozzles from accelerator pump. Is that normal? What do I check to correct this?
Thank you and really like your videos
Clay Thomas
Culleoka Tennessee
Clay send me your phone number and I'll call you . Randy.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90
I not sure my reply is getting back to you.
My email is bigblockchevyman1121@gmail.com send me your contact info.
I need help I have an 850 Holley carburetor it's a double pumper I have 76ers in the front and 85 in the rear primary metering block has a power valve 6.5 and the rear has a block off for some odd reason it will run when I flip the main body backward so choke tower toward the back side I think wrong gaskets?
Check your throttle body gasket, the wrong gasket will block the idle circuit hole and keep it from idling. Match your gasket to the main body. Hope this helps.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 When I first put it together I noticed I really had to force the base plate gasket on and it had a little bit hanging over.. just put it back together last night going to put it on at lunchtime wish me luck and thank you sir
That's exactly what it was she runs beautiful 406 SBC lunati street master cam 507 lift 285 duration turbo400 373 out back and some BALD bf good riches thank you sir
You are most welcome.
have you ever had a 4150 that had lower float level on one side of the carb and higher/pretty much full up on the other? got a 450cfm 4150 that the passenger side is full up in both bowls, and the driver side is barely visible in the sight glass. i also suspect the front idle fuel mixture screws wont turn in all the way, but i dont know enough to really tell whats wrong with it
Never head of that unless you have a dual needle and seats with dual floats, other than that I have no idea.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 It does have 2 needles and 2 floats but one for each bowl. The particular carb I have is P/N HR-450 on holleys website if that helps any.
Had two new fuel pumps mechanical, and had 12psi and 14psi flooded like hell,put on fuel regulator 5psi called it a day
Did you order high pressure pumps?
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 stock pumps for a 67 cougar 289
If those fuel pumps are factory stock there defective, pressure should be around 5 to 6psi no stock carburetor will hold that kind of pressure period. When the internal bypass stops up, thats whats causing the high fuel pressure.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 thanks! Just got my 3rd pump today, and this one at 5.6 psi, works great, I'm 68 and for the last 7 years I volunteer in a restoration shop for cars 1924 - 1980, one or two days a week,you got to stay busy, I was the care taker for alcatraz island ,the only maintenance worker on the island , it was hell with 5,000 tourist every day on 22 arces of island! Thanks my friend!
My 80457 is rich at idle. Changed power valve, went from 65 to 64 MJ, and adjusted floats so it just spills out with a push...so far that is...I'm thinking o-ring on the inlet valve or accelerator pump... Any suggestions?
I need more information , engine size , does it have a racing cam , how much vacuum at idle and is it only rich at idle, will the mixture screws change the idle speed?
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 It's a 350 unknown cam but it does have roller tip rockers and looks like new valve springs. I've seen as high as 18-19in with the Edelbrock 600 I took off. But only 14in with this Holley. It's bleeding fuel somewhere into the idle circuit. The carb is due a rebuild I did replace the power valve with a quicksilver 10.5 I had just to verify the leak wasn't a PV..
What’s the easiest way to drain the bowls
Cool the engine ,remove one of the lower bowl screws, while holding a cup underneath. Or remove carb and drain .
This is so stupid but I just bought a used xp Holly that was "turn key" and pulled the needle and steat out after it flooded my engine it had no O ring on either 😭
Mark you never know what you have until you go through it. Good luck bud
Went through it and I'll be putting it back on this weekend and hopefully going some rounds in no box ! Thanks for your videos!
how to adjust the fuel level if there is no threaded bolt or window ?
If you have no external float adjustment then you set the float level with the fuel bowl removed and in the inverted position ,bend the float tang to raise or lower the float to specification for your carb , usually you only need the List number to find your proper float setting, it is usually measured between the float and the inside top of fuel bowl. Hope this helps.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 there is an external float adjustment! there is no hole for level control.No bolt, no window
if i rev the engine or if im driving down the road my holley 600 runs great. but if i let it just set and idle it starts to flood after about 3 or 4 minutes sometimes it takes longer to flood closer to maybe more than 8 minutes. What could be going on?
Check your float level when it floods if level is good check your power valve for leaks . Hope this helps
O-ring on needle and seat is leaking by would be my guess.
I would check my fuel pressure first , sometimes fuel pressure will creep up slowly. Street driving i like to see no more than 6psi. Hope this helps.
One way to avoid flooding and/or fueling problems is to stay FAR AWAY from Aeromotive FPR’s.
Have you had problems with aeromotive regulators what type, Iv'e had one for a tunnel ram it was a bypass regulator that returned the fuel to the fuel tank. But that was my only personal experience. It worked excellent.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Yes…about 7 or 8 years ago I had an adjustable aeromotive regulator whose diaphragm failed in 20 miles. They sent me another and it didn’t last much longer. I ended up with a Weldon unit and have never once had an issue.
Wow thats not good.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 no…it wasn’t! I saw those aeromotive bits and had flashbacks 🤣
thanks i use captions,,,,, you helped , but you speak like you have a wadd of topakki
Glad I could help , no topakki lol.