I did this a couple years ago with direction from this video, I may have tweaked a few shortcuts but basically from this video... I wish I could give this video 2000 thumbs up... Thank you, You've saved owners with this 3.5 engine, thousands of dollars... Bless you
Thank you for confirming what I suspected with regard to accessing the rear Air Fuel(A/F) sensor - otherwise known as B1S1 sensor. B1 = bank 1 - S1 = sensor 1 or A/F sensor - the upstream sensor. No way the get to the electrical connector portion from the bottom unless your forearms are 2" in circumferences at 5' long and you can see what isn't visible from below. If you have never done a spark plug change on a 2GR-FE engine - then do as this man has done. Get the 2 cowling pieces off + wiper arms/motor. It will greatly simplify the job and takes little or no time to do.
Want to comment that O2 sensors (aka A/F sensors) are like spark plugs and they do wear out. These sensors are not cheap hence the reluctance by owners/drivers to replace them when they go bad. But I've seen invoices for over $500 charged by shops to replace them.
Thanks for the video! It definitely helped me out with my 2005 Avalon especially with getting the wires out of the way of the back so I could get the coils out.
Thank you saving me so much time reading. :-) followed every step but didn’t need to remove the plenum. Yes a little awkward to get to but these steps nailed it.
Yes ... the Milwaukee ratchet is great! Recently purchased another one ... the newer model for 1/2 sockets. Generates 60 lbs of torque. Can easily take off 14 mm nuts and bolts!
Informative video. Many similar videos show plug replacement, yet I have yet to see any of them do a compression test while the plugs are out. Also no body washes the engine before starting to work on it.
i recently wanted to change my spark plugs/coils on my v6 07 camry, looking at this video im really scared but i want to try and change them, thank you for the video as im sure this will help me
As others have said, man this video is amazing. No BS, no skipping any steps, great instruction. I feel emboldened that I can do this. One question - Is that the Bank 1 (or bank2?) Air Fuel sensor you replaced? That is not the "heated oxygen sensor" right?
@@hardlymovingpro Wow thanks for responding so quick. I owe you. Going to be doing this whole thing this week. It's crazy how expensive that sensor is OEM, they want $285 for it! That Denso one is quite a price break.
I think after a few more times viewing your video I'll jump into the deep end and do this myself this weekend. Thank you so much for the useful information! I do have one question, what is the gap measurement for the spark plugs?
Great tutorial video! Thanks for taking the time to share with us all. God bless! You are the man! I will be replacing sparks plugs/02 sensor on my 07 v6 camry.
Thanks for sharing the process. I'm in Australia and the owns a equivalent model of 2009 Aurion V6 with 150k. Recently changed spark plugs in order to tackle the rising fuel consumption level (near 20L/100km). I used ODB2 scanner to monitor two pre-cat oxygen sensors and noticed their voltage stay around 3.3v. Are they likely failing without any error code showing up? Cheers
I have experienced cars with O2 sensors getting "lazy" enough to make the car run sluggish but not trigger a mil code. With the milage you have on the car, I'd replace them. Replace with either Denso or NGK.
Great video I’m looking to do this job as well I already have all the parts I just wanted to know which o2 sensor is the upstream left and upstream right?
They're both the same except for the length of the sensor wires. Some manufacturers keep them long so they are interchangeable between the left and right.
You should've changed the TB and plenum gaskets while you're there. The new geniune Toyota plenum gaskets are orange, it's like a proof that you did the job, that's what I did for my Sienna. Great video, thanks.
Just finished doing this job 🥵 Definitely took me about 6 hours to complete and all the locking tabs on electrical connectors to my coil packs broke 😢 Any recommendations for securing them down other than replacing the whole connector?
Not unusual for the tabs to break off. Happens all the time. Easy solution is to apply a light coat of RTV on the coil pack's slide on contact surface where it meets the connector.
How long did you take to do this the first time and what should a person expect to spend to get this done by a pro. ? It’s a lot of pieces to take apart. Ugh. I don’t even have one of those fancy ratchets. Well put together video all the same very good.
Great video! The pacing and the still shots with notes, especially. I've got a P0351 code on my '08 Rav4 V6. Since it's on cylinder 1 I'm gonna have to take it all apart much as you did here. Based on what I've read/warched I should be able to do it without removing the cowling (just removing plenum, etc)...but I'll def keep this vid handy in case I end up needing/wanting to remove the cowling too. I'll replace the 3 coils and plugs in the back (1,3,5) while I have it all opened up and since I'm already at 110k miles. Will also be ready to fix the coil connectors since I hear they almost always break off, too. A rat also chewed one of two wires on my transmission speed sensor (output, the blue sensor not the black one) so gotta fix that (code 0793) but that's another topic :) Anyway...I've just subscribed. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing. Could be you might only need new spark plugs. Replace the plugs and trade the firewall cylinder head coil packs with the radiator side cylinder head . If you get a misfire code, the defective coil pack would be easier to get to and replace.
@@hardlymovingpro Dang...brilliant. I wanted to do the coil/plug swap test to isolate but I dont know why I was thinking I would swap it with 3 or 5...but then I'd have to put it all back together, test, and then do it all again. Dumb :) Your way obviously simpler. Haha. Thanks, man! Take care!
@@DTFilmzz I use electric ratchet wrenches and impact drivers to make the job go faster and easier. They're not cheap tools but since I do so many repairs, the tools have paid for themselves.
Wow... You are good...But I wish you could do like take pictures then show where to look and what to do in that picture so peep like me can follow step by step. Too many steps for just changing spark plugs and o2 sensor. By the way... You are very good at it.
@@hardlymovingpro I understand... But can you do both? Your video might be longer but I personally think it will help. Yeah, I see you pause the video couple times to get watchers attention at some point and that exactly helps. Thank you for doing DIY videos. Like & Sub.
Great Work. Did you have to reset the throttle? I changed the spark plugs out of a Nissan, and afterward the idle acted weird. I had to reprogram it. Do I need to reprogram the idle with a Toyota? Thank You. I have a 2007 2GRFE engine.
The tricky thing about Nissan's is when cleaning the throttle body, do not move the throttle plate. If you do, then yes, you have to re-program. Haven't run into Toyota's with the same problem with electronic throttle bodies.
Nice Job! I'll do the same for my 2010 Lexus ES350 which have the same engine as the Camry. My questions is: It is necessary to do an Idle relearn procedure after you remove the battery and clean the throttle body (moving the plate)? Thank you and again excellent job!
If a Nissan TB plate has been moved ... yes ... but believe Toyota's are more forgiving. To play it safe, avoid moving the throttle plate all together. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery won't require a relearn.
you need to download the "check engine" DTC (diagnostic trouble codes). If you don't have a code reader, you can get a free download at any auto parts retailer. They come out, hook you up and print out the codes. From there you can figure out what needs to be done.
Might sound dumb but im having the worst luck removing the o2 season bank 1 sensor (closest to firewall) all my tools hit the wall or just impossible. Any specific tools you use that made it work.
Hello thank you for this video. Thinking of doing this soon. Can I just replace the spark plugs or do I have to replace the coil packs as well? I have a 07Avalon. 199k on it but I got it used @123k miles. Everyone says To go with oem Coils but they aren’t cheap lol.
If you're dealing with a cylinder misfire code specific to a particular cylinder (P0301 - P0306), replace the coil pack for that cylinder. If no misfire codes, don't replace it.
I'm thinking about getting myself a 2009-2010 Camry. I've heard the l4 engine has issues with the piston rings. Does that make de V6 a better option, or does this car have similar problems? Thanks guys!
@@hardlymovingpro Wow!! Thanks for answering, I really appreciate it. I think that such reliability is worth a couple miles to the gallon, so I'll look for a nice V6 one.
In the absence of design flaws, poor quality control or manufacturing defects, 4 cylinder engines, because of less moving parts, should have fewer problems. From 2002 to 2006, the head bolt threads in the Camry's 2AZ-FE's block might strip. The only fix is to remove the cylinder head and insert steel Time Serts ... an expensive and time consuming solution. If the dealers are asking over $1,500 for the repair, might as well get a re-manufactured engine.
I’m most likely going to purchase a 2010 ES350. I know I’ll have to do plugs as it’s got 115k, but do the valve covers usually leak on these? I work at an oil change place and the 2GR engines usually appear dry regardless of miles, whereas every 1/3MZ I’ve owned has to have the VC replaced usually at low mileage. Thanks.
I was given a qoute for $725 for just the spark plugs and a gasket replacement for the manifold. They said it was that expensive becuase of over 3 hours in labor, is that how long it should take?
Maybe for the plenum but not the throttle body since the gasket is metal. The plenum gaskets looked like they were in good shape. The important thing is to make sure the contact surface (intake manifold) for the plenum gasket is clean. You can coat the gasket with silicon grease before connecting and bolting down the plenum to the intake manifold.
@@hardlymovingpro my gf Camry is having hard start every morning but it turns all the time. I'm thinking it's the sp. Her car dad 92k miles. What symptoms were u getting? 150k miles is allot lol
Do you know what sensor your reconnecting at 8:34 in the video. I missed that one when loosing the harness and pull all three wires out of the back of it. Tried to reseat wires, but wasn’t quite sure order. Ran out of time and slapped back together. Runs great and misfire gone. VSC, traction control, and check engine lights on after repair completed. Will take apart in future and splice a connector with pigtail. If you know the sensor it will help me find the pigtail. TY. Great video BTW.
I did the same mistake, but I solved it before putting things together, check my channel, I made a video about how to solve this issue. The video titled How to reconnect vvt sensor socket Toyota Sienna (same engine).
Thanks for the video. This 2GR-FE 3.5L engine has much less room to work on than 1MZ-FE 3.0L. With an OEM O2 sensor cost $200-300, I wouldn't replace if it doesn't fail. I would spend time to clean throttle instead.
When the O2 sensor goes bad, you've got no choice but to replace the sensor. Your car's PCM will ignore the erratic O2 sensor signals but will allow you to operate your car with an over rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture prevents the car from a potential over lean air/fuel mixture which can overheat and damage the engine. The over rich mixture will results in a drop in fuel efficiency and within a few months burn out your catalytic converters. The burn out is caused by excess hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) being burned by your cats. The excess heat eventually destroys the converters. When your check-engine or MIL goes on because of the O2 sensor, and the longer you ignore it, the sooner you'll burn out your cats. So if you think O2 sensors are expensive, check out the cost of a new cat on these cars. You can buy new OEM Denso sensors for a little over $100 at Rockauto.com.
After completing the job I’m getting a CEL p0365 p0014 and p0017. Summary after changing the plugs I had to disconnect one of the crankshaft position sensor to make some room for #5 coil pack I did the whole job nice and clean. Put everything back together the way it suppose to be. Start the car I got CEL code p0365 I erase the code thinking i disconnect the camshaft sensor may be that’s why I took the car for a spin CEL came back on but the code was 0014 p0017. These codes stayed if I would erase them they would come back after few miles.( never had any issue before ever) today I change bank 1 sensor B. But codes still not cleared sesame story started again p0365 follow with p0014 and p0017. I check all the electric connection for corroded or damage wires everything looks good. Please let me know what should I do next or where I’m making a mistake.
I'm going to guess that the electrical connector (the one you unplugged to make room) has somehow been damaged. With a volt/ohm meter, you'll have to do a electrical continuity check on the connector. With the plug disconnected and the engine off, use something like a paper clip to join the electrical connection between the female connection points in the plug. Pierce each of the wires going into the plug, connect you volt/ohm wires and perform the test. If the meter does not sound off, you've got a electrical break somewhere. Wiggle the lead until you hear a good connection. You may have to replace the connector.
Thanks for replying. I forgot to mention one more thing which I want to mention now please let me know if that would make a difference or if it will bring these codes. While I was taking out cylinder number 1 coil pack the rubber boot got stuck into ceramic part of the plug I went through a lot taking it out since not enough room. I got the boot out and clean it off with air, a very tiny price half or quarter size of the penny was left inside I took the plug out thinking it would come out with it but it didn’t come out and fall off inside the whole. I put the new plugs gap and torque them. The car runs fine no misfire or anything like that. But these codes are coming on my scanner. I wonder if that small price of rubber have something to do with these code since its fall on top of the piston. I am very concern about this issue and we don’t have any good mechanics who I can trust they are just part replacer no proper Diagnose. I would really appreciate you reply back. Thanks
Great thanks that was my biggest concern. I’m getting p0017 which is for bank 1 sensor B, which one will be the sensor B on that motor? The one near cyl 1 or cyl 5? Thanks
Just used this video to change all 6 spark plugs on my 08 Camry SE. I just paused it at each step so I would get lost. Sadly, I didn’t have my engine coils so I’ll have to redo all this to change those 🥲
Clogged fuel injectors. Had someone replace both plugs and coils on a Honda accord. Still kept misfiring. Did a pressurized injector cleaning service via the fuel line. Completely fixed the problem.
You're sort of right. One easy repair procedure is usually offset with another procedure which can be unusually difficult and expensive ... like replacing worn out axle shaft U joints or malfunctioning transfer case that your FJ has but the Camry doesn't.
If you are changing your spark plugs in your Lexus ES350 you dont need to remove the wipers and motors. Lexus has a bigger engine bay than Toyota but the engine is the same. Also removing on bolt from the intake brackets on each side would be enough. I didnt have to remove the strut bolts and the bar as well. I did mine this way and worked perfect although this job is pain in the butt anyway.
As you said "this job is a pain in the butt". It would have been easier if you removed the wiper motor cowling. Using my electric impact tool, spinning off those 10 mm bolts to remove the cowling takes up a few minutes of my time.
Can this job be done by just removing the cowl assembly and the bracket that's over the one coil pack, my hands are pretty small thinking I can fit them back there.
The bracket is difficult to see by eye. You have know where it is and feel for it. The 13:07 time mark shows where the bracket is attached to the plenum.
That's correct. They're push pin pliers and that's a tool I use a lot. The tool is only around $10 or less. Unlike needle nose pliers, the tips are designed to "pinch" which helps tremendously removing these plastic electrical connectors. The trick is learning not to pinch too hard or you'll brake the plastic.
You only replaced one O2 sensor which I suppose goes bad much sooner than the others, mind did. How long do the other o2 sensors last by your experience? Thanks
I treat O2 sensors like spark plugs ... which, by the way, easily last over 100k miles. If the sensor is easy to get to, I generally leave it alone. I make the exception to replace it when I realize how ridiculously difficult it may be to replace if or when it fails. On the Camry, Avalon and ES350 with the 2GR-FE engine, the right bank sensor plug is butted right up against the firewall below the wiper cowling and behind the intake plenum. Also, the sensor wire is alligator clipped it. Good luck getting your hand in there and unplugging it! I figure a repair shop might charge up to 3 hrs labor to replace it. So take the hit and replace it while it's easy to get to, or wait till it fails? You're choice.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you! My car is at 160 k miles . I had the spark plugs replaced around 90k mark. So next time i do my plugs ill do the other 3 sensors. Hopefully a little cheaper to change when doing the plugs? Great video by the way!
I'm screwed. Was hoping to be able to do it myself. Used to work on my 1997 Chevy Malibu V6 by unplugging cable, removing sparkplug, plug cable again, done. 6 hours and just short of removing engine head? Oh crap.
If not replacing the plugs, use a long handle 19 mm box wrench. Come in from the driver's side firewall. Remove the air filter box and plenum brackets to make more room if you want.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! I struggled to get it because of how reduce the room was. But I went to O Reily's and they had a shorter socket with the ratchet insert offset to the side, so I was able to dig in with the torque wrench and bust it out! A long process but feel proud to have done it all myself.
There is an exhaust leak noise coming from the back of my canary v6 motor,, I checked the flex pipe, it's not that it seems to be closer upfront,,, i cant see behind where its coming from,,, does the exhaust manifold usually have problems on this car or could it be the gasket connecting flex pipe to the manifold,,,, I'm hoping this is an easy fix.. motor is running ok tho no codes..
Check the exhaust pipe connection points for leaks. Some may be spring loaded with a flexible "donut" type seal that allows both pipes to slightly bend against each other. The donut seal is a wear item and could be the cause of your noise.
They're called push pin pliers. Here's a link to Amazon: amzn.to/2Bo2DIx You can also use fuel line clip disconnect pliers. Here's the link: amzn.to/2MeU0lp
This is an amazing video! but as an amateur I get a panic attack by even looking at it. How the hell am I going to remember to reconnect all bolts and connectors properly and the right order.. I think you mentioned that but how do I look up the torques or what are the torques for all these bolts and spark plugs too? 🥵 sweating buckets 🪣
Were you able to do it. Mechanics in my area are total rip offs. Asking 150 diagnosis then 400 labor. This is my motivation if I do this I can save 550 at least
Thank you so much for this video! Going to attempt this along with knock sensor replacements as well. Do you have the torque specs available for all bolts you had to torque down?
I use a thin tip metal pic tool and place it between the clip and the clip retainer. The clip is then lifted off the retainer and the electrical fitting pulled.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank u so much for your reply & I really appreciate it. I'll go and buy push pin removal tool . Pls advise which brand & model you recommend .
@@hardlymovingpro To avoid the confusion (to the newbie like me), the replaced sensor in this video should be call A/F sensor (instead of O2 sensor). It took me a while to figure it out. Thanks again.
Nope. Someone else also had the same concern a few months back. The spark plug ground strap is dropping into the spark plug hole and therefore cannot be damaged.
This is a turnoff for owning a Camry v6. I managed to change the spark plugs in 1999 Camry v6: other than a broken wire, all went fine. But this 06 Camry v6 and 6 hours? No way.
As I become more experienced the Camry V6 gets less daunting as when I started. One component waiting to be replaced is the rear engine mount that is bolt together with CV axle. I hesitate to take out the axle just to replace the engine mount. I might use polyurethane to glue the broken rubber.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for your advice. I have already had the replacement part. From testing the gear change between R and D, I can tell the rear motor mount is bad. But I haven't sensed other symptoms during drive (except occasional clunking noise when I brake that may or may not relate to this). Back to the topic of Camry V6 vs I4 preference, I4 offers more space in general but can also be a PITA with a bad design. For example, changing PCV my 2010 Camry (2AR-FE) falls into that bucket. Others have reported 8 hours amount of work changing that small part.
Upstream. It communicates with the car's computer. From the data, computer determines the correct air fuel mixture. The downstream sensor monitors the efficiency of your catalytic converter. Replacing the downstream sensor will not turn off the m i l lamp. You probably need a new catalytic converter.
@@MICHAELWALTON1 That's correct. The left most bracket should be removed. It gets in the way of the 2nd bracket upper bolt. The 2nd bracket can stay on loosely by loosening the lower bolt.
@@hardlymovingpro I wanted to give an update on my spark plugs exchange on my 2GR-FE engine in my 2007 Lexus es350. As demonstrated at the 2:45 mark of the video, the drain cowling wasn't bolted on but welded on. A dagger in my heart! Just not enough room for me and my hands to work on plenum bolts. I didn't even get the wiring harness loosened. So after my best effort, I buttoned every thing back down, but lubed wiper motor assembly with white lithium, cleaned the throttle body and plate (filthy) & cleaned the wiper blade with denatured alcohol. It was an learning experience. ? do you get to the left plenum bolt from underneath the car ? Your assessment, please? Thanks
It would be difficult to disconnect the O2 sensor's plug connected to the upper portion of the firewall. Perhap just remove the windshield wiper cowling.
If you're asking about the O2 sensor I'm replacing in the video, it's screwed into the top portion of the exhaust manifold below the firewall. The hard part is getting to the O2 plug which is right up against the top portion of the firewall covered up by the intake plenum.
I did this a couple years ago with direction from this video, I may have tweaked a few shortcuts but basically from this video... I wish I could give this video 2000 thumbs up... Thank you, You've saved owners with this 3.5 engine, thousands of dollars... Bless you
Glad it helped!
I’ve seen many vids on this.
This is concise, correct, & zero bs. Really excellent🎯👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro glad to see you’re still around! 😊
You bet!
For first timers like me,better take pictures before starting to work.well done sir,thanks for sharing!
Yes you are correct, pictures can help you put a part back together when you get confused.
Just changed out my plugs and coil packs on a 2007 Toyota Avalon. I NEVER could have done it without this video. Thank you so much!!!
You're welcome and glad it all worked out for you!
Did you disconnect the battery terminals?
@@pardesi_life yes. You’ll want to disconnect them any time you touch anything connected to the electrical system.
Thank you for confirming what I suspected with regard to accessing the rear Air Fuel(A/F) sensor - otherwise known as B1S1 sensor. B1 = bank 1 - S1 = sensor 1 or A/F sensor - the upstream sensor. No way the get to the electrical connector portion from the bottom unless your forearms are 2" in circumferences at 5' long and you can see what isn't visible from below.
If you have never done a spark plug change on a 2GR-FE engine - then do as this man has done. Get the 2 cowling pieces off + wiper arms/motor. It will greatly simplify the job and takes little or no time to do.
Thanks for your comment and support!
Want to comment that O2 sensors (aka A/F sensors) are like spark plugs and they do wear out. These sensors are not cheap hence the reluctance by owners/drivers to replace them when they go bad. But I've seen invoices for over $500 charged by shops to replace them.
Love how you make it look so easy...I wish I could have you work on my Toyota Highlander (s) and the Camry and the Corolla.
Thanks! Conceptually, it is easy with the right tools, patience and some past experience (trial and error).
Thanks for the video! It definitely helped me out with my 2005 Avalon especially with getting the wires out of the way of the back so I could get the coils out.
Glad it worked out for you!
Great video I remember when I was a kid I had a 74 nova 350 and how easy that was to change the spark plugs
I know ... and not anymore ... even some 4 bangers.
Thank you saving me so much time reading. :-) followed every step but didn’t need to remove the plenum. Yes a little awkward to get to but these steps nailed it.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Great video I just did the spark plugs to my v6 rav4. That Milwaukee ratchet is amazing
Yes ... the Milwaukee ratchet is great! Recently purchased another one ... the newer model for 1/2 sockets. Generates 60 lbs of torque. Can easily take off 14 mm nuts and bolts!
Yup the proper tools.
Informative video. Many similar videos show plug replacement, yet I have yet to see any of them do a compression test while the plugs are out. Also no body washes the engine before starting to work on it.
Compression checks are normally performed for trouble shooting. Engine cleaning is always a good idea.
i recently wanted to change my spark plugs/coils on my v6 07 camry, looking at this video im really scared but i want to try and change them, thank you for the video as im sure this will help me
Take it step by step and keep your parts in the order you removed them. Good luck!
seriously, thank you so much for this. this is going to save me hundreds!!!
You bet and tell your friends to subscribe to learn more!
As others have said, man this video is amazing. No BS, no skipping any steps, great instruction. I feel emboldened that I can do this. One question - Is that the Bank 1 (or bank2?) Air Fuel sensor you replaced? That is not the "heated oxygen sensor" right?
Thanks! Bank 1, Sensor 1; the tough one to get too up against the firewall. The heated sensor is always behind the cat converter.
@@hardlymovingpro Wow thanks for responding so quick. I owe you. Going to be doing this whole thing this week. It's crazy how expensive that sensor is OEM, they want $285 for it! That Denso one is quite a price break.
I think after a few more times viewing your video I'll jump into the deep end and do this myself this weekend. Thank you so much for the useful information! I do have one question, what is the gap measurement for the spark plugs?
The new iridium plugs should come pre-gaped.
one of the best tutorials on This job. one question, how do you remember all the parts disassemble?
Put them in order. Also do the job enough times it becomes second nature
Great video damn the V6 is a pain in the ass
thanks! Pain at first but you get use to working on it.
Great tutorial video! Thanks for taking the time to share with us all. God bless! You are the man! I will be replacing sparks plugs/02 sensor on my 07 v6 camry.
Thanks and good luck with the replacement!
@@hardlymovingpro 👍
Thanks for sharing the process.
I'm in Australia and the owns a equivalent model of 2009 Aurion V6 with 150k.
Recently changed spark plugs in order to tackle the rising fuel consumption level (near 20L/100km).
I used ODB2 scanner to monitor two pre-cat oxygen sensors and noticed their voltage stay around 3.3v.
Are they likely failing without any error code showing up?
Cheers
I have experienced cars with O2 sensors getting "lazy" enough to make the car run sluggish but not trigger a mil code. With the milage you have on the car, I'd replace them. Replace with either Denso or NGK.
What a nightmare, can’t imagine doing this without the help of this fine gentleman
Thanks for sharing!
Great video I’m looking to do this job as well I already have all the parts I just wanted to know which o2 sensor is the upstream left and upstream right?
They're both the same except for the length of the sensor wires. Some manufacturers keep them long so they are interchangeable between the left and right.
You should've changed the TB and plenum gaskets while you're there. The new geniune Toyota plenum gaskets are orange, it's like a proof that you did the job, that's what I did for my Sienna. Great video, thanks.
3.5L V6 uses a timing chain. Plenum gaskets maintains its seal.
@@hardlymovingpro What I meant with TB is throttle body and it has an O ring. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@PickyOne ok ...throttle body maintains its seal as well
Great step by step video thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just finished doing this job 🥵 Definitely took me about 6 hours to complete and all the locking tabs on electrical connectors to my coil packs broke 😢 Any recommendations for securing them down other than replacing the whole connector?
Not unusual for the tabs to break off. Happens all the time. Easy solution is to apply a light coat of RTV on the coil pack's slide on contact surface where it meets the connector.
How long did you take to do this the first time and what should a person expect to spend to get this done by a pro. ? It’s a lot of pieces to take apart. Ugh. I don’t even have one of those fancy ratchets. Well put together video all the same very good.
Give yourself around 6 hours
Great video! The pacing and the still shots with notes, especially. I've got a P0351 code on my '08 Rav4 V6. Since it's on cylinder 1 I'm gonna have to take it all apart much as you did here. Based on what I've read/warched I should be able to do it without removing the cowling (just removing plenum, etc)...but I'll def keep this vid handy in case I end up needing/wanting to remove the cowling too. I'll replace the 3 coils and plugs in the back (1,3,5) while I have it all opened up and since I'm already at 110k miles. Will also be ready to fix the coil connectors since I hear they almost always break off, too. A rat also chewed one of two wires on my transmission speed sensor (output, the blue sensor not the black one) so gotta fix that (code 0793) but that's another topic :) Anyway...I've just subscribed. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing. Could be you might only need new spark plugs. Replace the plugs and trade the firewall cylinder head coil packs with the radiator side cylinder head . If you get a misfire code, the defective coil pack would be easier to get to and replace.
@@hardlymovingpro Dang...brilliant. I wanted to do the coil/plug swap test to isolate but I dont know why I was thinking I would swap it with 3 or 5...but then I'd have to put it all back together, test, and then do it all again. Dumb :) Your way obviously simpler. Haha. Thanks, man! Take care!
Live and learn!
about doing mine. Thank you for sharing the experience👍
Thanks and good luck!
Me and my dad were gonna do this with no clue wtf to do but given the comment section I’m just gonna watch this and do it this weekend 😂😂
Hey ... good for you! Nothing ventured, nothing gained!
@@hardlymovingpro recommend anything to make the process any easier ?
@@DTFilmzz I use electric ratchet wrenches and impact drivers to make the job go faster and easier. They're not cheap tools but since I do so many repairs, the tools have paid for themselves.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks!! I’ll be hitting up the homies the for the tools🤣🤣
Such a good quality video. I’m an idiot but I was able to follow along
Thanks!
Wow... You are good...But I wish you could do like take pictures then show where to look and what to do in that picture so peep like me can follow step by step. Too many steps for just changing spark plugs and o2 sensor. By the way... You are very good at it.
Thanks for your comment! I use to publish pictures and text DIY articles but I've found people prefer videos.
@@hardlymovingpro I understand... But can you do both? Your video might be longer but I personally think it will help. Yeah, I see you pause the video couple times to get watchers attention at some point and that exactly helps. Thank you for doing DIY videos. Like & Sub.
Great Work. Did you have to reset the throttle? I changed the spark plugs out of a Nissan, and afterward the idle acted weird. I had to reprogram it. Do I need to reprogram the idle with a Toyota?
Thank You. I have a 2007 2GRFE engine.
The tricky thing about Nissan's is when cleaning the throttle body, do not move the throttle plate. If you do, then yes, you have to re-program. Haven't run into Toyota's with the same problem with electronic throttle bodies.
Nice Job! I'll do the same for my 2010 Lexus ES350 which have the same engine as the Camry. My questions is: It is necessary to do an Idle relearn procedure after you remove the battery and clean the throttle body (moving the plate)? Thank you and again excellent job!
If a Nissan TB plate has been moved ... yes ... but believe Toyota's are more forgiving. To play it safe, avoid moving the throttle plate all together. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery won't require a relearn.
I have a Camry 2008 xle and I have all lights on if I change the O2 sensor will that help me? Also Is it a similar engine?
you need to download the "check engine" DTC (diagnostic trouble codes). If you don't have a code reader, you can get a free download at any auto parts retailer. They come out, hook you up and print out the codes. From there you can figure out what needs to be done.
Yikes! This is more involved than a Odyssey with a V6. Thanks once again for your descriptive and informative videos 👍
Glad you liked it!
This is the v6 you idiot.
Might sound dumb but im having the worst luck removing the o2 season bank 1 sensor (closest to firewall) all my tools hit the wall or just impossible. Any specific tools you use that made it work.
I've used a long handled box wrench.
@@hardlymovingpro tried and no luck. Starting to think its stuck on there good
Thank you for your time today , Sir . I’ll shoot a picture soon to view thx aagain
You bet!
Hello thank you for this video. Thinking of doing this soon. Can I just replace the spark plugs or do I have to replace the coil packs as well? I have a 07Avalon. 199k on it but I got it used @123k miles. Everyone says To go with oem Coils but they aren’t cheap lol.
If you're dealing with a cylinder misfire code specific to a particular cylinder (P0301 - P0306), replace the coil pack for that cylinder. If no misfire codes, don't replace it.
I'm thinking about getting myself a 2009-2010 Camry. I've heard the l4 engine has issues with the piston rings. Does that make de V6 a better option, or does this car have similar problems? Thanks guys!
The V6 is a rock solid motor. Won't give the same fuel economy of an I4
@@hardlymovingpro Wow!! Thanks for answering, I really appreciate it. I think that such reliability is worth a couple miles to the gallon, so I'll look for a nice V6 one.
Was wondering if the V6 motors have fewer problems than the 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE's? I know Toyota had some issues w/ the head bolt threads.
In the absence of design flaws, poor quality control or manufacturing defects, 4 cylinder engines, because of less moving parts, should have fewer problems. From 2002 to 2006, the head bolt threads in the Camry's 2AZ-FE's block might strip. The only fix is to remove the cylinder head and insert steel Time Serts ... an expensive and time consuming solution. If the dealers are asking over $1,500 for the repair, might as well get a re-manufactured engine.
I’m most likely going to purchase a 2010 ES350. I know I’ll have to do plugs as it’s got 115k, but do the valve covers usually leak on these? I work at an oil change place and the 2GR engines usually appear dry regardless of miles, whereas every 1/3MZ I’ve owned has to have the VC replaced usually at low mileage. Thanks.
Think you're right. The 2GR doesn't have the valve cover gasket leaks like the MZ.
I was given a qoute for $725 for just the spark plugs and a gasket replacement for the manifold. They said it was that expensive becuase of over 3 hours in labor, is that how long it should take?
I can do it in around 2 hours. No need to replace any gasket.
Awesome video! I have a question how long did it take you to complete this entire job?
Around 3 hours or less.
When you do this, do you put new plenum and throttle body gaskets? Thanks.
Maybe for the plenum but not the throttle body since the gasket is metal. The plenum gaskets looked like they were in good shape. The important thing is to make sure the contact surface (intake manifold) for the plenum gasket is clean. You can coat the gasket with silicon grease before connecting and bolting down the plenum to the intake manifold.
Now I know why you suggest replacing the senser when replacing the plugs. Ngk or nippendenso?
My preference is Denso (aka ND or Nippon Denso).
I just did this job last week, I did not remove any of the Cowling.
Whatever works.
Which car you have
Great video! How many miles were on the camry when you did this service?
Over 150k
@@hardlymovingpro my gf Camry is having hard start every morning but it turns all the time. I'm thinking it's the sp. Her car dad 92k miles. What symptoms were u getting? 150k miles is allot lol
You did a real good job
Thanks for you comment and support!
Do you know what sensor your reconnecting at 8:34 in the video. I missed that one when loosing the harness and pull all three wires out of the back of it. Tried to reseat wires, but wasn’t quite sure order. Ran out of time and slapped back together. Runs great and misfire gone. VSC, traction control, and check engine lights on after repair completed. Will take apart in future and splice a connector with pigtail. If you know the sensor it will help me find the pigtail. TY. Great video BTW.
Believe that's the right bank camshaft position sensor.
I did the same mistake, but I solved it before putting things together, check my channel, I made a video about how to solve this issue. The video titled How to reconnect vvt sensor socket Toyota Sienna (same engine).
Thanks for the video. This 2GR-FE 3.5L engine has much less room to work on than 1MZ-FE 3.0L. With an OEM O2 sensor cost $200-300, I wouldn't replace if it doesn't fail. I would spend time to clean throttle instead.
When the O2 sensor goes bad, you've got no choice but to replace the sensor. Your car's PCM will ignore the erratic O2 sensor signals but will allow you to operate your car with an over rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture prevents the car from a potential over lean air/fuel mixture which can overheat and damage the engine. The over rich mixture will results in a drop in fuel efficiency and within a few months burn out your catalytic converters. The burn out is caused by excess hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) being burned by your cats. The excess heat eventually destroys the converters. When your check-engine or MIL goes on because of the O2 sensor, and the longer you ignore it, the sooner you'll burn out your cats. So if you think O2 sensors are expensive, check out the cost of a new cat on these cars. You can buy new OEM Denso sensors for a little over $100 at Rockauto.com.
Hardly Moving Productions I really like your detailed how-to videos! Keep up the great work!
@@hardlymovingpro love denso !!
@@trutr5205 Sure will ... thx!
@@emmanuelcarrion5168 One of the world's best car parts manufacturers!
What is the model number of the Milwaukee power wrench you're using in the video? Would you recommend it?
A link to all the tools used in the video should be in the description area of this video.
Awesome video! Keep up the great work - really enjoyed the pacing. What size as your Milwaukee racket, 1/4” or 3/8”?
3/8 and 1/2. The 1/2 gives me 60 lbs of torque!
After completing the job I’m getting a CEL p0365 p0014 and p0017. Summary after changing the plugs I had to disconnect one of the crankshaft position sensor to make some room for #5 coil pack I did the whole job nice and clean. Put everything back together the way it suppose to be. Start the car I got CEL code p0365 I erase the code thinking i disconnect the camshaft sensor may be that’s why I took the car for a spin CEL came back on but the code was 0014 p0017. These codes stayed if I would erase them they would come back after few miles.( never had any issue before ever) today I change bank 1 sensor B. But codes still not cleared sesame story started again p0365 follow with p0014 and p0017.
I check all the electric connection for corroded or damage wires everything looks good. Please let me know what should I do next or where I’m making a mistake.
I'm going to guess that the electrical connector (the one you unplugged to make room) has somehow been damaged. With a volt/ohm meter, you'll have to do a electrical continuity check on the connector. With the plug disconnected and the engine off, use something like a paper clip to join the electrical connection between the female connection points in the plug. Pierce each of the wires going into the plug, connect you volt/ohm wires and perform the test. If the meter does not sound off, you've got a electrical break somewhere. Wiggle the lead until you hear a good connection. You may have to replace the connector.
Thanks for replying. I forgot to mention one more thing which I want to mention now please let me know if that would make a difference or if it will bring these codes.
While I was taking out cylinder number 1 coil pack the rubber boot got stuck into ceramic part of the plug I went through a lot taking it out since not enough room. I got the boot out and clean it off with air, a very tiny price half or quarter size of the penny was left inside I took the plug out thinking it would come out with it but it didn’t come out and fall off inside the whole. I put the new plugs gap and torque them. The car runs fine no misfire or anything like that. But these codes are coming on my scanner. I wonder if that small price of rubber have something to do with these code since its fall on top of the piston. I am very concern about this issue and we don’t have any good mechanics who I can trust they are just part replacer no proper Diagnose. I would really appreciate you reply back.
Thanks
@@786variety Don't think that would set off the error codes you've been getting.
Great thanks that was my biggest concern. I’m getting p0017 which is for bank 1 sensor B, which one will be the sensor B on that motor? The one near cyl 1 or cyl 5? Thanks
Were you able to resolve this problem
Just used this video to change all 6 spark plugs on my 08 Camry SE. I just paused it at each step so I would get lost.
Sadly, I didn’t have my engine coils so I’ll have to redo all this to change those 🥲
If you changed the plugs and there's no misfire, no need to change the coil packs.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah I am having a misfire on #5. Would that be anything else other than the coil?
Clogged fuel injectors. Had someone replace both plugs and coils on a Honda accord. Still kept misfiring. Did a pressurized injector cleaning service via the fuel line. Completely fixed the problem.
I'm glad my FJ V-6 is mounted straight on...
You're sort of right. One easy repair procedure is usually offset with another procedure which can be unusually difficult and expensive ... like replacing worn out axle shaft U joints or malfunctioning transfer case that your FJ has but the Camry doesn't.
Hi there, am I going to be able to take the O2 sensor by taking the top part of the wiper blades tray without taking the top of the motor off ?
Reach in from under the throttle body/intake plenium.
@@hardlymovingpro I mean would it be enough space to reach the sensor without taking the top of the engine and throttle off ?
If you are changing your spark plugs in your Lexus ES350 you dont need to remove the wipers and motors. Lexus has a bigger engine bay than Toyota but the engine is the same. Also removing on bolt from the intake brackets on each side would be enough. I didnt have to remove the strut bolts and the bar as well. I did mine this way and worked perfect although this job is pain in the butt anyway.
As you said "this job is a pain in the butt". It would have been easier if you removed the wiper motor cowling. Using my electric impact tool, spinning off those 10 mm bolts to remove the cowling takes up a few minutes of my time.
Beautiful job sir! Kudos to you ! Thanks for the help!
Glad to help and thanks for your post!
excellent. Im about to start on my 02 toyota camry v6
Excellent! Good luck!
Can this job be done by just removing the cowl assembly and the bracket that's over the one coil pack, my hands are pretty small thinking I can fit them back there.
You might have problems getting out the #6 coil pack (right rear).
Were you able to do it without removing the plenum
@@pardesi_life yes it's kinda tight but have plenty of light and use a mirror
Did you need to replace the manifold gasket ?
I've found that in most cases the intake plenum gasket can be reused without leaking.
I couldn't see the plenum bracket that you were talking about in the first portion is there a way you could get a better pic of it?
The bracket is difficult to see by eye. You have know where it is and feel for it. The 13:07 time mark shows where the bracket is attached to the plenum.
Nice job thank you!
No problem and thanks for your comment!
what type of pliers did you use to assist with the wiring harness removals ?? .. they look like push pin pliers ??
That's correct. They're push pin pliers and that's a tool I use a lot. The tool is only around $10 or less. Unlike needle nose pliers, the tips are designed to "pinch" which helps tremendously removing these plastic electrical connectors. The trick is learning not to pinch too hard or you'll brake the plastic.
did you replace upstream or downstream o2 sensor?
upstream.
You only replaced one O2 sensor which I suppose goes bad much sooner than the others, mind did.
How long do the other o2 sensors last by your experience? Thanks
I treat O2 sensors like spark plugs ... which, by the way, easily last over 100k miles. If the sensor is easy to get to, I generally leave it alone. I make the exception to replace it when I realize how ridiculously difficult it may be to replace if or when it fails. On the Camry, Avalon and ES350 with the 2GR-FE engine, the right bank sensor plug is butted right up against the firewall below the wiper cowling and behind the intake plenum. Also, the sensor wire is alligator clipped it. Good luck getting your hand in there and unplugging it! I figure a repair shop might charge up to 3 hrs labor to replace it. So take the hit and replace it while it's easy to get to, or wait till it fails? You're choice.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you! My car is at 160 k miles . I had the spark plugs replaced around 90k mark. So next time i do my plugs ill do the other 3 sensors. Hopefully a little cheaper to change when doing the plugs?
Great video by the way!
@@sandeepp6300 If the sensors last that long.
@@hardlymovingpro Got it! might do the plugs a little earlier
Excellent!! Thanks
You bet!
Really informative video! Would this procedure be similar on an 09 toyota highlander 3.5 v6? Great video!
Yes ... the difference would be minor.
Thanks for your post and subscribe to support this channel and to get updates on new videos!
Any tips on how to remove the electrical connection for the downstream o2 sensor? Its cramp!
I hear ya! Suggest going to a local muffler shop with the part in hand. They should do it for cheap. Don't go full service repair shop.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much for the tips!! you have helped me a lot with my 2gfre engine. i donated a small tip. again, thanks for everything!
You bet and appreciate your donation to the channel!
Is this the same for a 2008 highlander, also is the sensor you changed considered bank 1 or 2? Thanks
Yes. the 2008 - 2016 Highlander uses the 2GR-FE 3.5L V6 engine.
The sensor by the firewall is bank 1, sensor 1. Also, Toyota calls the upstream O2 sensor an air/fuel ratio sensor.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for your video its helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I'm screwed. Was hoping to be able to do it myself. Used to work on my 1997 Chevy Malibu V6 by unplugging cable, removing sparkplug, plug cable again, done. 6 hours and just short of removing engine head? Oh crap.
Toughest part is detaching the plenum from the brackets up against the firewall.
Would it be possible to remove the rear spark plugs with only removing that windshield cowl and not the intake manifold?
Possible but would be tedious ... IMHO
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the advice. What about removing only the manifold, throttle body, and air box?
Whatever works for you. With me if I spend too much time and effort trying to get something off, I take off whatever is in the way.
How do you get the o2 sensor out if it's stuck? Little room to work back there and it seems a swivel socket isn't enough.
If not replacing the plugs, use a long handle 19 mm box wrench. Come in from the driver's side firewall. Remove the air filter box and plenum brackets to make more room if you want.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! I struggled to get it because of how reduce the room was. But I went to O Reily's and they had a shorter socket with the ratchet insert offset to the side, so I was able to dig in with the torque wrench and bust it out! A long process but feel proud to have done it all myself.
Good for you!
Great video and very well explained, you are awesome!!!
Thanks and appreciate your post!
the torque specs for the spark plugs on the Toyota Parts website is 13 ft-lbs. You did 20 ft-lbs which might be excessive.
Perhaps until you've delt with loose or blown out spark plugs problems.
You always make awesome video.
Thank you so much 😀
Just subscribed. Man the 4 cyl much easier lol. I have that v6 09 Camry.
Yes ... the 4 cylinders are much easier.
There is an exhaust leak noise coming from the back of my canary v6 motor,, I checked the flex pipe, it's not that it seems to be closer upfront,,, i cant see behind where its coming from,,, does the exhaust manifold usually have problems on this car or could it be the gasket connecting flex pipe to the manifold,,,, I'm hoping this is an easy fix.. motor is running ok tho no codes..
Check the exhaust pipe connection points for leaks. Some may be spring loaded with a flexible "donut" type seal that allows both pipes to slightly bend against each other. The donut seal is a wear item and could be the cause of your noise.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks will do
Where did you get those TWO Pliers from that you used to remove the electrical connectors ?
They're called push pin pliers. Here's a link to Amazon: amzn.to/2Bo2DIx
You can also use fuel line clip disconnect pliers. Here's the link: amzn.to/2MeU0lp
6:14 What O2 sensor is that? Bank2 Sensor 1? Etc?
There's 2 sensors in the description, but only one was changed in the video?
Bank 1, Sensor 1 is the one I replaced on the firewall side.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you.
You are amazing sir. I have been watching you for years now. We truly appreciate your work and help so much.
@@marklance033 Glad you've been enjoying it and spread the word!
Really nicely done video!
Thanks for you comment and support!
Great tutorial. Did you replace the intake plenum to manifold gaskets?
Thanks! No necessary if gasket hasn't hardened.
This is an amazing video! but as an amateur I get a panic attack by even looking at it. How the hell am I going to remember to reconnect all bolts and connectors properly and the right order.. I think you mentioned that but how do I look up the torques or what are the torques for all these bolts and spark plugs too? 🥵 sweating buckets 🪣
Can you partner with a friend with tools and a little bit of experience?
Were you able to do it. Mechanics in my area are total rip offs. Asking 150 diagnosis then 400 labor. This is my motivation if I do this I can save 550 at least
Thank you so much for this video! Going to attempt this along with knock sensor replacements as well. Do you have the torque specs available for all bolts you had to torque down?
Thanks for your comment and support. The only thing I use the torque wrench for are the spark plugs. Around 18 lbs.
@@hardlymovingpro I thought the spark plugs are 13lbs?
Nice job
Thanks!
great job!
Thanks for the visit!
Could u pls advise what kind of tool u have used to unlock the retainer clip from spark plug coils.
I use a thin tip metal pic tool and place it between the clip and the clip retainer. The clip is then lifted off the retainer and the electrical fitting pulled.
In this video I'm using a push pin removal tool.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank u so much for your reply & I really appreciate it. I'll go and buy push pin removal tool . Pls advise which brand & model you recommend .
@@hardlymovingpro Noted & thanks for explanation.
@@tunthura9349 It's a cheap, low tech tool that usually goes for under $10. Any brand will do. I do use it a lot, though.
Bravo. Love this.
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro To avoid the confusion (to the newbie like me), the replaced sensor in this video should be call A/F sensor (instead of O2 sensor). It took me a while to figure it out. Thanks again.
Aren't you risking damaging or changing the gaps by dropping the new spark plugs in like that?
Nope. Someone else also had the same concern a few months back. The spark plug ground strap is dropping into the spark plug hole and therefore cannot be damaged.
@@hardlymovingpro Makes sense. It would be hard to have the center piece touch the wall since it's a cylindrical shape.
This is a turnoff for owning a Camry v6. I managed to change the spark plugs in 1999 Camry v6: other than a broken wire, all went fine. But this 06 Camry v6 and 6 hours? No way.
I've worked on both and didn't find the 06 that much more difficult
I guess like everything else. The proper tools make it easier I guess.
As I become more experienced the Camry V6 gets less daunting as when I started. One component waiting to be replaced is the rear engine mount that is bolt together with CV axle. I hesitate to take out the axle just to replace the engine mount. I might use polyurethane to glue the broken rubber.
If it's broken, I'd replace it.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for your advice. I have already had the replacement part. From testing the gear change between R and D, I can tell the rear motor mount is bad. But I haven't sensed other symptoms during drive (except occasional clunking noise when I brake that may or may not relate to this).
Back to the topic of Camry V6 vs I4 preference, I4 offers more space in general but can also be a PITA with a bad design. For example, changing PCV my 2010 Camry (2AR-FE) falls into that bucket. Others have reported 8 hours amount of work changing that small part.
I replaced the coil packs on my wife’s 07’ V6 Camry and didn’t remove near that much stuff.
Whatever techniques works for you and thanks for sharing!
Is that down stream or up stream i justa bank 2 , 02 sensor because i just change my bank 2 , 02 down stream sensor p0157 but the light is still on
Upstream. It communicates with the car's computer. From the data, computer determines the correct air fuel mixture. The downstream sensor monitors the efficiency of your catalytic converter. Replacing the downstream sensor will not turn off the m i l lamp. You probably need a new catalytic converter.
On the plenum brackets bolts is removing just top bolts each side to remove doable?
On left driver's side the bolt brackets might get in your way
@@hardlymovingpro okay i noticed you completely removed the left side and only top bolt on right, so i'll do it your way, np thx
@@MICHAELWALTON1 That's correct. The left most bracket should be removed. It gets in the way of the 2nd bracket upper bolt. The 2nd bracket can stay on loosely by loosening the lower bolt.
@@hardlymovingpro I wanted to give an update on my spark plugs exchange on my 2GR-FE engine in my 2007 Lexus es350. As demonstrated at the 2:45 mark of the video, the drain cowling wasn't bolted on but welded on. A dagger in my heart! Just not enough room for me and my hands to work on plenum bolts. I didn't even get the wiring harness loosened. So after my best effort, I buttoned every thing back down, but lubed wiper motor assembly with white lithium, cleaned the throttle body and plate (filthy) & cleaned the wiper blade with denatured alcohol. It was an learning experience. ? do you get to the left plenum bolt from underneath the car ? Your assessment, please? Thanks
I'm confused. You couldn't get the wiper motor cowling off because it's welded on?
great video
Thanks!
Thanks
Welcome
is it possible to change the o2 sensor without removing everything?
It would be difficult to disconnect the O2 sensor's plug connected to the upper portion of the firewall. Perhap just remove the windshield wiper cowling.
For me, a little over 3 hours. If doing it for the first time, give yourself 6 hrs.
Are the sensors under the car? I see a lift being used in other videos
If you're asking about the O2 sensor I'm replacing in the video, it's screwed into the top portion of the exhaust manifold below the firewall. The hard part is getting to the O2 plug which is right up against the top portion of the firewall covered up by the intake plenum.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you!😀
No problem!
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks!
Is it same process for 2010 lexus es350?
Yes. The ES350 uses the 3.5 liter 2GR-FE engine.
Would that be the upstream o2 sensor or the downstream??
Upstream. Downstream is behind the converters.