Front brake rotors: amzn.to/2ahL3mP Front brake pads: amzn.to/2a4weGA Front soft lines: amzn.to/2amXCkH Front brake calipers: amzn.to/2a3zOgM Wear pad sensor: amzn.to/2a02lsQ ATE DOT 4 fluid: amzn.to/2a02tbL
Thanks for sharing, great work........You make it look too easy. I hope you kept the old calipers and brackets......Those were/are ATE.......Many considered them gold because they are harder to come by. You replaced the ATE with Girling Calipers. From what I am told the ATE Front Calipers came only on some ES and IS, most e30s had Girling in the front. ATEs were always in the rear. The Power Booster and Master Cylinders usually matched the front calipers. Some people claim there is no difference in the brakes calipers and the specs should be the same - the pin set up is different though. I personally think the ATE is better. I do not like the idea of having a bastardized set up ......my e30 325i has Girling Booster, Master Cylinder and Front Calipers with the ATE in the rear. Many people racing the e30 perfer the ATE Calipers because they can run brass bushings for stiffer brakes. I do not race or track my e30, but have found that the Girling Calipers never wear the pads evenly, either the inner pads wear faster than the outer or visa vera and for that I do not care for them.
It is no big loss if your car is a daily driver....It stops and the brakes work that is what is important. But given the choice I would take the ATE over Girling. On most newer BMWs have ATE for the whole system.
Can I ask where you're jacking the car from? In the front only jack for that bar (no idea what its called, sorry) just behind the oil pan, but I have to put my car up on bricks to fit the jack all the way under. I also put a jack stand on that square thing behind the front wheel and I nearly but a whole in my floor, good thing I was cautious. Anyway, this looks much easier, what are you putting the jack on?
+BIMMER ZEIT thanks for the info, sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant I have to drive my car up onto bricks so that it is high enough off the ground that I can jack it up. I don't use them to keep the car suspended. thanks for the info, excellent quality 👍
Hah actually its only lowered about an inch from stock, I'm not really a fan of lowered cars. I guess the front bumper is a little lower because its a 318is, which have that rubber front splitter, or maybe I just have a very tall jack lol
Steve Jiang I recall that when making this video I had drained the brake fluid from the reservoir (suck it out with a Turkey baster) as I also was doing a clutch master cylinder at the same time. If disconnecting the line as shown with a full reservoir, fluid will definitely drip out and gravity bleed out. I would recommend the turkey baster method to drain the reservoir at the brake master cylinder; do your lines/calipers as needed. Then fill reservoir with fresh fluid. You’ll need to bleed air from the system so start at furthest from the brake master cylinder (right rear, left rear, right front, left front). It may take a round or two of bleeding to get any/all air out. Hope this helped Steve, here if you have any additional questions.
Any tips when bleeding brakes? I just refreshed my brake system as well (rebuilt calipers, stainless steel lines, pads and rotors). Just took it out for a test drive and my brake pedal is softer than I'd like.
You'll need to bleed all four corners. I manually bleed them with a friend. Start with the bleeder screw closed while a friend pushes down on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder and air will come out (or fluid). Once the pedal travel reaches the floor or close to it, they keep holding the brake until you close the bleeder screw. Once closed, they lift up on the pedal and start again. Keep doing this process until fresh fluid flows from the bleeder screw. Be sure to check brake fluid level at the reservoir periodically while bleeding to prevent sucking air into the master cylinder. If after all this the pedal is still soft you may want to look at replacing other components such as the booster or master.
+BIMMER ZEIT And you want the pedal to hit the floor when bleeding? My method was have someone pump the pedal three to four times all the way to the floor or as close to it and have them hold the pedal to the floor then I'd open the bleeder screw for a second or two, then close it back up. And repeat till I saw no bubbles
Mmmm okay, I totally get you. Make sense for your case. I have a 90' 325i and its my daily driver but i take it to the canyons a lot and I was thinking about steel lines but how do you think the rubber lines would do? Awesome video BTW!
Yeah the stainless lines are about $80 for the kit, but I got rubber lines for about $9 each. It's not a huge difference - stainless is probably a sweet upgrade. But, if you have a long list of maintenance parts to catch up on it does add up.
How weird. Mine does the same thing in stop and go traffic on hotter days but cools at highway speeds. It's probably just the lack of air flow the engines exposed to when stopped. I just had the whole radiator system redone at my local shop with new coolant as well and mine does this.
It's actually perfectly fine on an E30, the fitting points straight down. On other models like an E39 or E46 where the rubber lines fitting points up, that would be a problem because if you get it hang it's almost kinking the line with the weight of the caliper.
Front brake rotors: amzn.to/2ahL3mP
Front brake pads: amzn.to/2a4weGA
Front soft lines: amzn.to/2amXCkH
Front brake calipers: amzn.to/2a3zOgM
Wear pad sensor: amzn.to/2a02lsQ
ATE DOT 4 fluid: amzn.to/2a02tbL
Enjoyed watching this vid you talked very relaxed and took your time to explain it so no-one would have to miss a part! Excellent performed!
Great again! How about the rear brakes with the additional hand brake pads? Can you do a video on that one to? Keep up the good work, my friend!!!
great concise video. love it. thank you, have watched every video you made.
Thanks for sharing, great work........You make it look too easy.
I hope you kept the old calipers and brackets......Those were/are ATE.......Many considered them gold because they are harder to come by. You replaced the ATE with Girling Calipers. From what I am told the ATE Front Calipers came only on some ES and IS, most e30s had Girling in the front. ATEs were always in the rear. The Power Booster and Master Cylinders usually matched the front calipers. Some people claim there is no difference in the brakes calipers and the specs should be the same - the pin set up is different though. I personally think the ATE is better. I do not like the idea of having a bastardized set up ......my e30 325i has Girling Booster, Master Cylinder and Front Calipers with the ATE in the rear. Many people racing the e30 perfer the ATE Calipers because they can run brass bushings for stiffer brakes. I do not race or track my e30, but have found that the Girling Calipers never wear the pads evenly, either the inner pads wear faster than the outer or visa vera and for that I do not care for them.
Thanks! Unfortunately I returned them as buying new calipers typically requires a core charge. Thanks for sharing that info here!
It is no big loss if your car is a daily driver....It stops and the brakes work that is what is important. But given the choice I would take the ATE over Girling. On most newer BMWs have ATE for the whole system.
Excellent video! Very concise and informative
Can I ask where you're jacking the car from? In the front only jack for that bar (no idea what its called, sorry) just behind the oil pan, but I have to put my car up on bricks to fit the jack all the way under. I also put a jack stand on that square thing behind the front wheel and I nearly but a whole in my floor, good thing I was cautious. Anyway, this looks much easier, what are you putting the jack on?
I jack on the unibody rail, and set down on a jack stand on the same surface. For your safety don't use bricks or stone, only use a safe jack stand!!
+BIMMER ZEIT thanks for the info, sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant I have to drive my car up onto bricks so that it is high enough off the ground that I can jack it up. I don't use them to keep the car suspended. thanks for the info, excellent quality 👍
Ah I see, that makes sense. Must be very lowered suspension! Appreciate that!
Hah actually its only lowered about an inch from stock, I'm not really a fan of lowered cars. I guess the front bumper is a little lower because its a 318is, which have that rubber front splitter, or maybe I just have a very tall jack lol
When disconnecting the brake line, do you need to drain the brake fluid, or the fluid is sitting in the reservoir and the line was empty?
Steve Jiang I recall that when making this video I had drained the brake fluid from the reservoir (suck it out with a Turkey baster) as I also was doing a clutch master cylinder at the same time. If disconnecting the line as shown with a full reservoir, fluid will definitely drip out and gravity bleed out. I would recommend the turkey baster method to drain the reservoir at the brake master cylinder; do your lines/calipers as needed. Then fill reservoir with fresh fluid. You’ll need to bleed air from the system so start at furthest from the brake master cylinder (right rear, left rear, right front, left front). It may take a round or two of bleeding to get any/all air out. Hope this helped Steve, here if you have any additional questions.
Love your videos man, helped me a lot with my e30
Any tips when bleeding brakes? I just refreshed my brake system as well (rebuilt calipers, stainless steel lines, pads and rotors). Just took it out for a test drive and my brake pedal is softer than I'd like.
You'll need to bleed all four corners. I manually bleed them with a friend. Start with the bleeder screw closed while a friend pushes down on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder and air will come out (or fluid). Once the pedal travel reaches the floor or close to it, they keep holding the brake until you close the bleeder screw. Once closed, they lift up on the pedal and start again. Keep doing this process until fresh fluid flows from the bleeder screw. Be sure to check brake fluid level at the reservoir periodically while bleeding to prevent sucking air into the master cylinder. If after all this the pedal is still soft you may want to look at replacing other components such as the booster or master.
+BIMMER ZEIT And you want the pedal to hit the floor when bleeding? My method was have someone pump the pedal three to four times all the way to the floor or as close to it and have them hold the pedal to the floor then I'd open the bleeder screw for a second or two, then close it back up. And repeat till I saw no bubbles
Yeah that will work too. The important thing is that the pedal doesn't travel back up and suck in air while the bleeder is open.
BIMMER ZEIT Gotcha, I'll give it a try tomorrow afternoon. Didn't get a chance today. I'll come back with the results. Thanks a ton!
so clean work nice
Nice video! Really helpful
Question: Why didn't you replace the brake lines with stainless steel ones? Just wanted to know your logic on that
Hey Christian! I did consider it, but this is a street car and it wasn't worth the extra expense to me. We have 3 BMW's to maintain, it adds up!
Mmmm okay, I totally get you. Make sense for your case. I have a 90' 325i and its my daily driver but i take it to the canyons a lot and I was thinking about steel lines but how do you think the rubber lines would do? Awesome video BTW!
Yeah the stainless lines are about $80 for the kit, but I got rubber lines for about $9 each. It's not a huge difference - stainless is probably a sweet upgrade. But, if you have a long list of maintenance parts to catch up on it does add up.
Alright thank you my man. i appreciate your advise! Also great work on the car, I love it! Keep it up man, I'm always looking forward to these vids
Great video. Can you do one of the rear brakes and also of bleeding them? Thx.
Can you do a video on how to bleed the cooling system? My e30 overheats in stop and gotraffic and will cool back down in normal driving
idrisu1 i have the same issue
Check the thermostat.
How weird. Mine does the same thing in stop and go traffic on hotter days but cools at highway speeds. It's probably just the lack of air flow the engines exposed to when stopped. I just had the whole radiator system redone at my local shop with new coolant as well and mine does this.
@bimmerziet how to i bleed the brake fluid?
turtle
Don’t forget to spay break cleaner over break disc to remove any leftover greasy finger marks 😎
Are these 205/75/14?
yes
Yes, for some reason the previous owner installed that size. I haven't changed them yet!
I have 175 75 14.Great vid btw
BIMMER ZEIT yeah, do that. I think the tire is a bit too big for the fronts.
Good vid e30
not a good idea to let the caliper hang on the rubber brake line.
It's actually perfectly fine on an E30, the fitting points straight down. On other models like an E39 or E46 where the rubber lines fitting points up, that would be a problem because if you get it hang it's almost kinking the line with the weight of the caliper.
thank you!
Круто!
good
Thanks l can do this myself
Eh, if you did the other side we'd have seen how the wear sensor went on.