Love your video's Chuck. Always short, sweet, and to the point. It really helps all of us beeks to see a demonstration and your thoughts while making these decisions.
I am a relative newbee... I couldn't bring myself to cull those swarm cells... I'd leave one or 2 and make nucs out of the rest. Thank you for sharing!!! I enjoy the content. Few more weeks for us up here in the north. 40 degrees today.
Great demonstration! This is exactly how I do my splits, I remove the queen and let the main hive realize they are queenless and the "swarming" mindset gets subsided. Good job Chuck! Love your channel, newly discovered
Great video, simple and straightforward . There is just one part that is missing and that is not explained. In newly made nucleus old bees will return to the original hive.
Not sure I agree with this point if you put the right aged brood in the nuc with young nurse bees, and emerging brood. The foragers will most likely leave if they are not re-located to another apiary, or constrained for 3 days.
Thank you so much. The bees are still in the observation hive, but they are bearding out front. I thought for sure they were going to swarm this morning already, because we had a lot of rain last night and it cleared up nicely this morning. Still there though.
Why do all the swarm management videos and prematurely like this? Everyone talk about all these ways of splitting checkerboarding et cetera et cetera but then stops talking about what to do after this process is that this colony now is knocked back and won’t produce a crop? Do you pinch the new queen And recombine in time for a honey flow to get a crop of honey? All this has taught is how to multiply your colonies.
I don't pinch swarm queens unless they exhibit unwanted traits like aggressiveness. The state of Florida does recommend re-queening all swarm queens but this is to manage africanization through feral breeding. I live in NE Florida so this is not an issue here .. yet. New swarms won't produce a crop usually the first year like any other nuc. Once you get them settled you can do whatever you want with them, combine, grow, split, etc. Hope this is helpful.
Love your video's Chuck. Always short, sweet, and to the point. It really helps all of us beeks to see a demonstration and your thoughts while making these decisions.
Thank you and I am glad they are helpful.
I am a relative newbee... I couldn't bring myself to cull those swarm cells... I'd leave one or 2 and make nucs out of the rest.
Thank you for sharing!!! I enjoy the content. Few more weeks for us up here in the north. 40 degrees today.
It is really hard to do sometimes.
Thank You Chuck.I always enjoy your videos. I'm in zone 7b of South Carolina. Our Maples just bloomed.
Maples are the start! Thanks for the support.
Excellent teaching videos, Chuck! Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Enjoyed your video- good job of explaining!!!
Glad it was helpful!
So glad I found your videos! Great informative presentations😊 I'm 7b in norcal with 70s coming next week. I feel the swarms coming😅
Just captured another swarm this evening.. they are a coming.
Your videos are really great. You get right to the point with accurate information. Your postings are a pleasure to watch.
I appreciate that!
Great demonstration! This is exactly how I do my splits, I remove the queen and let the main hive realize they are queenless and the "swarming" mindset gets subsided. Good job Chuck! Love your channel, newly discovered
Thanks for the support and welcome aboard!
Great video, simple and straightforward . There is just one part that is missing and that is not explained. In newly made nucleus old bees will return to the original hive.
Not sure I agree with this point if you put the right aged brood in the nuc with young nurse bees, and emerging brood. The foragers will most likely leave if they are not re-located to another apiary, or constrained for 3 days.
Very nice great info. I hopefully avoided the swarm cells. I tried the Demaree method this year and have to check this week to see what happened
Good luck!
Another great video Chuck ... thanks.
You are very welcome
Your videos are the best - clear and understandable! Keep them coming and what's happening with the observation hive?
Thank you so much. The bees are still in the observation hive, but they are bearding out front. I thought for sure they were going to swarm this morning already, because we had a lot of rain last night and it cleared up nicely this morning. Still there though.
Did u leave nuc in bee yard or move it to another yard?
Thanks enjoyed your video
I have the queen excluder closed for the day, added syrup, will move tomorrow or in a day or two..
How do you keep your royal jelly fresh?
I keep it in the freezer. Thanks for the support.
Chuck. I’m in central Florida and in need of 2 queens. Do you have any available? Thought I would take a shot just in case you do. Love the channel!
Not this weekend but soon
Cool. Put me on the list if you have one. I’ll look around on Monday but queens are hard to come by right now
You mentioned you caught a swarm in a trap. Did it have one of your new lure vials?
Yes it did, it works! Or at least .. it doesn't not work?
Why do all the swarm management videos and prematurely like this? Everyone talk about all these ways of splitting checkerboarding et cetera et cetera but then stops talking about what to do after this process is that this colony now is knocked back and won’t produce a crop? Do you pinch the new queen And recombine in time for a honey flow to get a crop of honey? All this has taught is how to multiply your colonies.
I don't pinch swarm queens unless they exhibit unwanted traits like aggressiveness. The state of Florida does recommend re-queening all swarm queens but this is to manage africanization through feral breeding. I live in NE Florida so this is not an issue here .. yet. New swarms won't produce a crop usually the first year like any other nuc. Once you get them settled you can do whatever you want with them, combine, grow, split, etc. Hope this is helpful.