Nice Video. Wish the camera was closer to see more detail of the assembly part. I'm particularly interested in the valve train & rocker assemblies. I'm going to have to tear into mine & not looking forward to it. I've already done the VC gasket a few years ago. I wish I took more pics when I was in there.
Yeah, I apologize for that and my Gopro overheating and shutting down....I really wanted to get some nice video but unfortunately I was in a time crunch....The valvetrain set up is pretty straight forward, just be careful how you loosen/tighten down the camshafts as they're hollow and of course you dont want them to possibly rotate and smack one of the valves into a piston......I would definitely get a good low measurement torque wrench and the cam set up tool I mentioned in the text portion of the video
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake My 2010 335D just started making a noise. Funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. So far you only start to hear it under light & moderate loads. When you put the car in neutral or park, you can run the RPM's up to 3k with no abnormal sounds. I had a buddy who's a Kenworth mechanic listen to it & he's confident that it's a top end issue, maybe a injector knock. I am so not looking forward into removing the Valve cover. It's not bad, just time consuming.
That's a bummer man.....I'm assuming the noise under load changes with RPM? I don't if you're aware but these engines will trap water on the #5 and #6 cylinders and end up destroying the injectors which, in my case, was intermittent at medium loads and significant at heavy load....that said, it didn't make a valvetrain noise but rather unusual injector noise....you might as well check it out before you remove the valve cover....I have another video where I changed out the injectors, modified the valve cover, and put a light guage aluminum cover to deflect any future water that may enter from off of the windshield.....either way I hope it's not too much of a pain for you!!
One more thing since I wasn't able to get video of it.....the valvetrain set up is very similar to a mitsubishi 4g63 where the lash adjuster (which could be a problem in your case) sits to one side of the cam, the rocker has a roller in the middle that the cam lobe rides on, and the valve is on the opposite side
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake Thanks. Honestly I do think I have an injector knock. So this weekend I'll perhaps mess around with it & see if I can make some progress.
You're very welcome! I'm sorry I wasn't able to get better footage! If you've done this type of thing before, it's not much harder than any other engine R&R. I'm assuming it will be easier to work under the X5 because you'll have more room. I put a 12 valve Cummins in my Ford Excursion and only used the jack once to hold the transmission in place. That said, you'll need to wiggle it around while it's on the engine hoist to get everything to line up and then slowly, incrementally, and carefully draw everything together with the bolts. The only thing that makes this a bit more of a challenge with this engine is the angle that the engine sits in the car. You'll want to have some long extensions 2 and 3 footers, with swivels to get to upper bolts and some long pry bars to be able to move things while you're laying under the vehicle, unless you have a helping hand. I'd say in my humble opinion, leave the trans in place. Don't try to get away with not removing the front clip. Just remove it, slide everything to the side, and pull the engine out. As I'm sure you know, 25% of the job is going to take you as long as 75% of the job! Something is going to be a pain in the rear.....that's how it works lol
After Cleaning two cylinders (4 ports) with the Chemical, I have had it, it took 4 hrs to clean the two ports and there is still crud near the valve stems. better the head off and better in my case take the engine out and into the garage! I am thinking taking it out with the transmission with I saw being done also with an regular engine hoist, maybe that could also help later with alignment installing the unit back in.
I am wondering where to exactly attach the chain(s) to the engine when attaching the engine hoist. I have also a leveler and was thinking four attachment points. I saw You connecting together two partial chains at the hoist hook or metal O-ring, one attached to a bolt at the back of the engine, driver side, and the other in the front somehow wrapped around somethings there and attached to...?
For sure, you can do it either way...at some point I'm assuming that you're going to want to put it on an engine stand to make it easier to take apart and you'll have to remove the trans and put it somewhere...aligning it to the trans wasn't a real pain, it was getting the passenger side motor mount to get into postion while the trans was aligned....either way I'd definitely take the engine out....it's too much of a pain to do a thorough job of cleaning the carbon deposits.....once I removed the head I did several chemical treatments then allowed it to dry, then walnut blasted the ports...this got 100% of the gunk off of the ports and 98% off of the back sides of the valves
It's just one chain...and what may have appeared as me hooking up two chains was just me counting out the links to make sure the engine wouldn't hang too far forward or backward...If you stop the video at around 7:06, you can see where I hooked up the chain...the front attachment point is the factory one and the rear there is a hole in the block just above the starter that I ran a large bolt through with washers and a nut of course...using these two points allowed the engine to stay pretty close to its original position while hanging on the hoist....That chain is long because I use it for several things so it may appear that it's wrapped around things but it's not....I used a heavy duty D-Ring for the front attachment eye and ran the chain straight back to that hole in the block....just be careful on the front drivers side edge of the head/valve cover as the chain wants to press against it to a degree.
Thanks for sharing! Im preparing to swap the engine on my x5 and trying to gather as much info as I can before diving in. It looks like you managed to get the engine out without draining the ac system which is cool. Any difficulty mating the engine and trans back in the car? A lot of people seem to think oulling the engine and trans together is easier but then it seems like it would be really difficult to leave ac stuff intact.
• 3 days ago You're very welcome! I'm sorry I wasn't able to get better footage! If you've done this type of thing before, it's not much harder than any other engine R&R. I'm assuming it will be easier to work under the X5 because you'll have more room. I put a 12 valve Cummins in my Ford Excursion and only used the jack once to hold the transmission in place. That said, you'll need to wiggle it around while it's on the engine hoist to get everything to line up and then slowly, incrementally, and carefully draw everything together with the bolts. The only thing that makes this a bit more of a challenge with this engine is the angle that the engine sits in the car. You'll want to have some long extensions 2 and 3 footers, with swivels to get to upper bolts and some long pry bars to be able to move things while you're laying under the vehicle, unless you have a helping hand. I'd say in my humble opinion, leave the trans in place. Don't try to get away with not removing the front clip. Just remove it, slide everything to the side, and pull the engine out. As I'm sure you know, 25% of the job is going to take you as long as 75% of the job! Something is going to be a pain in the rear.....that's how it works lol
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake I appreciate the detailed response. I do have a little experience pulling engines and transmissions out of other bmw models so I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out, just trying to get a decent plan of attack beforehand and hopefully save myself some headache. As you've mentioned though, I'm sure I'll hit a snag or two regardless. Sounds like the bolt access is very similar to my old m3. I used about 6 ft of extensions linked together to get to the top bolts lol, good times. At least I still have the extensions. Cheers man, thanks again for the input.
I'm still busy prepping the engine... Now struggling with the removal the AC Compressor from the block without disconnecting the AC lines, just hang it off to the side... The AC Compressor on the 2011 335d sits above the alternator on right (driver) side and beside the front two 13mm bolts is also attached to a triangular bracket. Two bolts are evident but I think there is another bolt down below towards the high pressure fuel pump i can not see but I need to get to...time to bring the camera out.
In the states, the A/C compressor sits on the passenger side, low, below the turbo outlets. If I remember correctly, there are 4 bolts retaing it. It has the stretch belt attached to it from the crank pully. Top, drivers side (in the US) is the power steering pump. Hope this helps.
Nice Video. Wish the camera was closer to see more detail of the assembly part. I'm particularly interested in the valve train & rocker assemblies. I'm going to have to tear into mine & not looking forward to it. I've already done the VC gasket a few years ago. I wish I took more pics when I was in there.
Yeah, I apologize for that and my Gopro overheating and shutting down....I really wanted to get some nice video but unfortunately I was in a time crunch....The valvetrain set up is pretty straight forward, just be careful how you loosen/tighten down the camshafts as they're hollow and of course you dont want them to possibly rotate and smack one of the valves into a piston......I would definitely get a good low measurement torque wrench and the cam set up tool I mentioned in the text portion of the video
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake My 2010 335D just started making a noise. Funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. So far you only start to hear it under light & moderate loads. When you put the car in neutral or park, you can run the RPM's up to 3k with no abnormal sounds. I had a buddy who's a Kenworth mechanic listen to it & he's confident that it's a top end issue, maybe a injector knock. I am so not looking forward into removing the Valve cover. It's not bad, just time consuming.
That's a bummer man.....I'm assuming the noise under load changes with RPM? I don't if you're aware but these engines will trap water on the #5 and #6 cylinders and end up destroying the injectors which, in my case, was intermittent at medium loads and significant at heavy load....that said, it didn't make a valvetrain noise but rather unusual injector noise....you might as well check it out before you remove the valve cover....I have another video where I changed out the injectors, modified the valve cover, and put a light guage aluminum cover to deflect any future water that may enter from off of the windshield.....either way I hope it's not too much of a pain for you!!
One more thing since I wasn't able to get video of it.....the valvetrain set up is very similar to a mitsubishi 4g63 where the lash adjuster (which could be a problem in your case) sits to one side of the cam, the rocker has a roller in the middle that the cam lobe rides on, and the valve is on the opposite side
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake Thanks. Honestly I do think I have an injector knock. So this weekend I'll perhaps mess around with it & see if I can make some progress.
You're very welcome! I'm sorry I wasn't able to get better footage! If you've done this type of thing before, it's not much harder than any other engine R&R. I'm assuming it will be easier to work under the X5 because you'll have more room. I put a 12 valve Cummins in my Ford Excursion and only used the jack once to hold the transmission in place. That said, you'll need to wiggle it around while it's on the engine hoist to get everything to line up and then slowly, incrementally, and carefully draw everything together with the bolts. The only thing that makes this a bit more of a challenge with this engine is the angle that the engine sits in the car. You'll want to have some long extensions 2 and 3 footers, with swivels to get to upper bolts and some long pry bars to be able to move things while you're laying under the vehicle, unless you have a helping hand. I'd say in my humble opinion, leave the trans in place. Don't try to get away with not removing the front clip. Just remove it, slide everything to the side, and pull the engine out. As I'm sure you know, 25% of the job is going to take you as long as 75% of the job! Something is going to be a pain in the rear.....that's how it works lol
After Cleaning two cylinders (4 ports) with the Chemical, I have had it, it took 4 hrs to clean the two ports and there is still crud near the valve stems. better the head off and better in my case take the engine out and into the garage! I am thinking taking it out with the transmission with I saw being done also with an regular engine hoist, maybe that could also help later with alignment installing the unit back in.
I am wondering where to exactly attach the chain(s) to the engine when attaching the engine hoist. I have also a leveler and was thinking four attachment points. I saw You connecting together two partial chains at the hoist hook or metal O-ring, one attached to a bolt at the back of the engine, driver side, and the other in the front somehow wrapped around somethings there and attached to...?
For sure, you can do it either way...at some point I'm assuming that you're going to want to put it on an engine stand to make it easier to take apart and you'll have to remove the trans and put it somewhere...aligning it to the trans wasn't a real pain, it was getting the passenger side motor mount to get into postion while the trans was aligned....either way I'd definitely take the engine out....it's too much of a pain to do a thorough job of cleaning the carbon deposits.....once I removed the head I did several chemical treatments then allowed it to dry, then walnut blasted the ports...this got 100% of the gunk off of the ports and 98% off of the back sides of the valves
It's just one chain...and what may have appeared as me hooking up two chains was just me counting out the links to make sure the engine wouldn't hang too far forward or backward...If you stop the video at around 7:06, you can see where I hooked up the chain...the front attachment point is the factory one and the rear there is a hole in the block just above the starter that I ran a large bolt through with washers and a nut of course...using these two points allowed the engine to stay pretty close to its original position while hanging on the hoist....That chain is long because I use it for several things so it may appear that it's wrapped around things but it's not....I used a heavy duty D-Ring for the front attachment eye and ran the chain straight back to that hole in the block....just be careful on the front drivers side edge of the head/valve cover as the chain wants to press against it to a degree.
Thanks for sharing! Im preparing to swap the engine on my x5 and trying to gather as much info as I can before diving in. It looks like you managed to get the engine out without draining the ac system which is cool. Any difficulty mating the engine and trans back in the car? A lot of people seem to think oulling the engine and trans together is easier but then it seems like it would be really difficult to leave ac stuff intact.
• 3 days ago
You're very welcome! I'm sorry I wasn't able to get better footage! If you've done this type of thing before, it's not much harder than any other engine R&R. I'm assuming it will be easier to work under the X5 because you'll have more room. I put a 12 valve Cummins in my Ford Excursion and only used the jack once to hold the transmission in place. That said, you'll need to wiggle it around while it's on the engine hoist to get everything to line up and then slowly, incrementally, and carefully draw everything together with the bolts. The only thing that makes this a bit more of a challenge with this engine is the angle that the engine sits in the car. You'll want to have some long extensions 2 and 3 footers, with swivels to get to upper bolts and some long pry bars to be able to move things while you're laying under the vehicle, unless you have a helping hand. I'd say in my humble opinion, leave the trans in place. Don't try to get away with not removing the front clip. Just remove it, slide everything to the side, and pull the engine out. As I'm sure you know, 25% of the job is going to take you as long as 75% of the job! Something is going to be a pain in the rear.....that's how it works lol
@@FloridaRealEstatewithJake I appreciate the detailed response. I do have a little experience pulling engines and transmissions out of other bmw models so I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out, just trying to get a decent plan of attack beforehand and hopefully save myself some headache. As you've mentioned though, I'm sure I'll hit a snag or two regardless. Sounds like the bolt access is very similar to my old m3. I used about 6 ft of extensions linked together to get to the top bolts lol, good times. At least I still have the extensions. Cheers man, thanks again for the input.
I'm still busy prepping the engine... Now struggling with the removal the AC Compressor from the block without disconnecting the AC lines, just hang it off to the side... The AC Compressor on the 2011 335d sits above the alternator on right (driver) side and beside the front two 13mm bolts is also attached to a triangular bracket. Two bolts are evident but I think there is another bolt down below towards the high pressure fuel pump i can not see but I need to get to...time to bring the camera out.
In the states, the A/C compressor sits on the passenger side, low, below the turbo outlets. If I remember correctly, there are 4 bolts retaing it. It has the stretch belt attached to it from the crank pully. Top, drivers side (in the US) is the power steering pump. Hope this helps.