If only other vids covering the same subject were as clear, concise and gimmick-free as yours! They should remember the old adage - KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid!). Your video helped me a great deal, and now I feel confident enough to try my own developing. Thanks for uploading!
Thank you for the kind words! Processing film always seems like a daunting task but we wanted to make sure everyone has the tools to develop their own at home.
I have not processed film in 35 years. I've been using it so rarely that I just send it off. I've been restoring old camera lately and using more film than I used to so I decided to try my hand at it again. 1. Using a dark bag is not for me lol. I'm using my dark room/storage closet next time. No windows and the door is sealed tight. Zero light and it's insulated. 2. I was trying to load 120 film onto the reel an it kept coming out of the track. It took me almost an hour to get it loaded. Now this was the first time I've ever done 120 film so that was half the problem. Using a dark bag was half the problem. 3. Once loaded, everything went smooth. Mixing, soaking and agitating went fine. Pictures turned out great. Thanks for the video and helpful advice!
We're glad it worked out in the end! The dark bag is tricky especially with unfamiliar film but we are happy you found your process! Thanks so much for the kind words.
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo Just did some 35mm and it loaded perfect and processed perfect! I suspect the 120 may have been a flimsy, thinner film. I've seen videos and talked to others and mine just flopped around and bent so much easier. Thanks again :)
Hi! Here is what Ilford is recommending: "The ILFORD SIMPLICITY System is designed for one shot processing (use once then discard) and will give best results when used in this way. It is possible to re-use the stop bath and fixer solutions once made up, but we would recommend only doing this in the same session and discarding the solutions at the end of the session" "The film developer sachet contains ILFORD Ilfosol 3 developer and is ideal for low volume, one shot use. Particularly suited to films up to ISO 400/27° this developer will produce negatives with fine grain and excellent sharpness. Use once then discard" "The stop bath contains an indicating dye to tell you when it is exhausted, and the solution will turn from straw coloured to magenta. Re-use only in same session. Max capacity 8 films" "The fixer is ILFORD Rapid fixer, a dilution of 1+5 has been chosen and is well suited to single use application. Re-use only in the same session. Max capacity 8 films" Hope this helps!
Thank you for the great explanations in this video. I used the kit and it works fine. But now i want to develop more film and of course always getting the simplicity pack is way to expensive. I did some internet research, but I'm not quite sure wich four items from Ilford to get to replace the four ingredients. Can you help me with that?
We're so glad you found it helpful! The ingredients that are in the starter kit are as follows: Film developer (Ilfosol 3), Film stop bath (Ilfostop), Film fixer (Rapid fixer), Film wetting agent (Ilfotol). Let us know if you have any other questions!
Are you able to save the chemicals and store them? If I developed 2 rolls of film could I use the same agents a week or two later to develop again or would I need fresh chemicals?
Hi! Here is what Ilford is recommending: "The ILFORD SIMPLICITY System is designed for one shot processing (use once then discard) and will give best results when used in this way. It is possible to re-use the stop bath and fixer solutions once made up, but we would recommend only doing this in the same session and discarding the solutions at the end of the session" "The film developer sachet contains ILFORD Ilfosol 3 developer and is ideal for low volume, one shot use. Particularly suited to films up to ISO 400/27° this developer will produce negatives with fine grain and excellent sharpness. Use once then discard" "The stop bath contains an indicating dye to tell you when it is exhausted, and the solution will turn from straw coloured to magenta. Re-use only in same session. Max capacity 8 films" "The fixer is ILFORD Rapid fixer, a dilution of 1+5 has been chosen and is well suited to single use application. Re-use only in the same session. Max capacity 8 films" Hope this helps!
It all comes down to practice! Once you do it a few times it becomes simpler. You can practice with all the material (minus the actual film) outside the bag to get your bearings first.
Hey, I am really new in developing film. I ordered ilford Multigrade to develop my film 35mm But now I'm confused as I only see this beeing used for the paper and not the roll. Can I still use this to develop my film or do I have to buy the Ilford Microphen or the Ilford Ilfosol3 ??? Thank you.
Hi Tara, so the Ilford Multigrade developer is used to develop the image on paper after the film has already been processed and developed. It is NOT suitable for developing film. Depending on the film you are trying to develop, I would check out the Ilford developer guide: www.ilfordphoto.com/beginners-guide-film-developers/ For color, check out C-41 kits. Hope this helps!
I got the Ilford Simplicity kit .. but there are no official charts if you are trying to process non Ilford types of films .. like Holga 400 which be under the foma umbrella of films. Just trying to get a time sheet on how long. Some sites say one thing others say another, which is accurate?
Hi Jody! Film has a lot of flexibility depending on what speed you shot the film and what you want the final product to look like. We are finding Holga may fall around 6:30 minutes developing time but this isn't exact. The best way to ensure the correct timing is to shoot a test roll and do some experimenting. This way you can dial in your timing without guessing in the future. Hope this helps!
Technically, everything except for the developer can be used for up to 8 rolls with proper storage/re-sealing of the sachets (or within the same session)! The developer is single-use. You can find their recommendations here - www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1730/
Hi Sarah! You can use the same amount for one roll as you would with two because the chemicals are pre-measured out for two rolls (maintaining the correct dilution ratio). You are able to do the same developing with half the intended chemicals for one roll however, for this you will need to calculate the proper ratios for each chemical/water. Hope this helps!
I’m in the tropics - so it’s warmer here than where you are. What would you say would be ideal temp for room temperature? I may have to have ice cubes and a liquid bath to keep temp constant
Hi @Satyarod! It is recommended to develop at room temp (20C like you stated) but with black and white there is a lot more room for variation than color film. It's hard to say whether or not you will get good results and may require some trial runs to make sure it works out. 31C will likely be too warm and will require incredibly short and inconsistent processing times. We don't recommend above 25C for the best possible results. Hope this helps!
Hello Klaudia, thank you for your question! You are not able to develop color film with the Ilford Simplicity kit as the chemicals are different. We suggest a C41 developing kit.
Hello, When I am filling in the developer etc it doesnt have to be dark as the film is in the tank, right? Sorry for that stupid question, but I never did it before.
The only stupid question is the one you never ask! The tank will be light sealed as soon as it clicks together! So when you are pouring into the tank, there your film will never see light. Make sure the tank is put together properly and you will be good to go.
I'm new to film and this video gave me some confidence in developing my own B&W film. I saw that you mentioned that the Developing tank was for B&W film. What's the difference between this tank and any other tank?
Hi Nick! You can develop black & white or color in any developing tank! Some are geared towards use in an actual darkroom while others can be used anywhere (strong light seals).
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I love the video and I will you as you professionally proposed and so kindly showed BUT more important thing how do you properly dispose these chemicals because skipping the most important part it is barbaric and prehistoric. So please advice in how to really properly dispose those liquids who clearly are not suited for a normal sink. and I put the planet first. please advice asap Thank you
@@iLVCA I'm really pleased to read your comment. I also see french photographers videos, and I have always realized that USA photographers never talk about how, and where it is possible to disposal the chemicals to protect the environment. Greetings. 👍
We recommend following the times given in the Simplicity Kit. That said, times can vary a little without issues. Have fun! Tech Info: www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1567/
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I printed the charts and followed them by the book. Very cool experience! My photos were a little bit grainer than at the lab, do you know why?
@@swisswildpicsswp3095 Excellent! Grain can be very cool, but if you want to know more, look into the numerous factors involved, like the type and speed of the film used, how the film was exposed, the developer, how it was developed, etc. We don't have a video on this, but if you search the web - you'll find plenty of info out there. Hope this helps to get you started!
@@swisswildpicsswp3095 Film can go grainy just before they over-develop. Could be caused by over-agitation, development time too long, developer mixing not measured accurately or time not corrected for temperature (it is a chemical reaction, so the higher the temperature, the quicker the chemical process. Would suggest mixing all the chemicals before starting and RINSE the measuring jug before mixing each chemical. Digital kitchen scales are good for measuring water, 100ml of water at 20 degrees Celsius weighs 100grams. I was taught to use a water bath kept at 20 degrees Celsius, in which all the chemical bottles would be placed and allowed to warm and stabilise. Also the developing tank would be placed in the water bath between agitations. It is only the developer that is actually time and temperature critical. By always developing at the same temperature creates a constant between each developing session, to compare results (i.e grainy film from one session). The bath water would then be used for rinsing the film, thus not shocking the film with sudden cold water.
So you don't seem to need to rinse, say, the stop bath out before the fixer step. I guess Ilford has clarified the chemicals such that adverse reactions don't occur?
For this kit, Ilford recommends one processing "session." You will need to add time on the second roll if you choose to process one at a time vs. two at one time. Link to the Tech Info (scroll to the bottom of the link): www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1567/ This kit is more of an introduction to film processing or to be a fun family project. Progressing from here, you would learn to mix chemical batches specifically for the desired outcome, etc. This process can certainly be rewarding, but it's much more involved. Hope this helps!
Ilford recommends not reusing the fixer but you are able to reuse the developer with some dilution. For the correct ratios visit this link for the data sheets - www.ilfordphoto.com/1178856
They have an updated kit allows you to develop 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120mm at a time! www.huntsphotoandvideo.com/detail_page.cfm?productid=1178858&mfg=Ilford&show=yes
Hi! Stop bath is recommended but not required. You will need to rinse your film multiple times after developing if you choose not to use stop bath. Hope this helps!
Can I use a pack of medicine to develop two rolls of 120 film? I have a JOBO1520, which can install two rolls of 120 film at the same time. Can I use a pack of medicine to process them at the same time?
We would not recommend using medicine to develop film. If you have the Simplicity Starter Kit you can develop one roll of 120 film. If you would like to develop 2 at the same time, you would need to double the chemicals or use a conversion chart for different chemical dilutions!
OK, but cut the film outside the dark bag first. You do not need to pop off the canister lid, just feed out the film on to the spiral as you go in the dark bag. Once you open the film canister you can't take your hands out of the dark bag if something goes wrong. Don't make problems for yourself.
There will be a difference in some of the chemicals as well as the temperature needed to develop color film. Good luck and check out this breakdown for developing your color film! If you have any other questions don't hesitate to give us a call and speak to some of our lab technicians (781-662-8822). parallaxphotographic.coop/how-to-develop-colour-film/
If only other vids covering the same subject were as clear, concise and gimmick-free as yours! They should remember the old adage - KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid!). Your video helped me a great deal, and now I feel confident enough to try my own developing. Thanks for uploading!
This was a very well done tutorial - clear, concise and to the point.
Thank you, Dave!
Great. Just loved this step through guide - and I developed my first two rolls of film (ever) using it.
Thank you for the kind words! Processing film always seems like a daunting task but we wanted to make sure everyone has the tools to develop their own at home.
Great video!! I followed the steps and it worked PERFECTLT!! THANKS!!!
We're so glad! Thanks for the kind words, Frank!
Thanks. Great tutorial, worked well and was fun doing it while watching this!
I have not processed film in 35 years. I've been using it so rarely that I just send it off. I've been restoring old camera lately and using more film than I used to so I decided to try my hand at it again.
1. Using a dark bag is not for me lol. I'm using my dark room/storage closet next time. No windows and the door is sealed tight. Zero light and it's insulated.
2. I was trying to load 120 film onto the reel an it kept coming out of the track. It took me almost an hour to get it loaded. Now this was the first time I've ever done 120 film so that was half the problem. Using a dark bag was half the problem.
3. Once loaded, everything went smooth. Mixing, soaking and agitating went fine. Pictures turned out great.
Thanks for the video and helpful advice!
We're glad it worked out in the end! The dark bag is tricky especially with unfamiliar film but we are happy you found your process! Thanks so much for the kind words.
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo Just did some 35mm and it loaded perfect and processed perfect! I suspect the 120 may have been a flimsy, thinner film. I've seen videos and talked to others and mine just flopped around and bent so much easier. Thanks again :)
Great teaching. Thank you.
RS. Canada
Thank you for a great tutorial, I'm about to give it a go. Also, great name. 😉
You're welcome! Hope you're having fun with it!
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I really am thanks.
Great video really helped me 🤘🏻
We're so glad, Alfie!
This was great.
Thank you!
Hey thanks for this detailed tutorial. Can we keep that chemical used to develop new film rolls?
Hi! Here is what Ilford is recommending: "The ILFORD SIMPLICITY System is designed for one shot processing (use once then discard) and will give best results when used in this way. It is possible to re-use the stop bath and fixer solutions once made up, but we would recommend only doing this in the same session and discarding the solutions at the end of the session"
"The film developer sachet contains ILFORD Ilfosol 3 developer and is ideal for low volume, one shot use. Particularly suited to films up to ISO 400/27° this developer will produce negatives with fine grain and excellent sharpness. Use once then discard"
"The stop bath contains an indicating dye to tell you when it is exhausted, and the solution will turn from straw coloured to magenta. Re-use only in same session. Max capacity 8 films"
"The fixer is ILFORD Rapid fixer, a dilution of 1+5 has been chosen and is well suited to single use application. Re-use only in the same session. Max capacity 8 films"
Hope this helps!
great video! very helpful for beginners!!
Great tutorial! You made it look easy :)
Thank you for the great explanations in this video. I used the kit and it works fine. But now i want to develop more film and of course always getting the simplicity pack is way to expensive. I did some internet research, but I'm not quite sure wich four items from Ilford to get to replace the four ingredients. Can you help me with that?
We're so glad you found it helpful! The ingredients that are in the starter kit are as follows: Film developer (Ilfosol 3), Film stop bath (Ilfostop), Film fixer (Rapid fixer), Film wetting agent (Ilfotol).
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Are you able to save the chemicals and store them? If I developed 2 rolls of film could I use the same agents a week or two later to develop again or would I need fresh chemicals?
Hi! Here is what Ilford is recommending: "The ILFORD SIMPLICITY System is designed for one shot processing (use once then discard) and will give best results when used in this way. It is possible to re-use the stop bath and fixer solutions once made up, but we would recommend only doing this in the same session and discarding the solutions at the end of the session"
"The film developer sachet contains ILFORD Ilfosol 3 developer and is ideal for low volume, one shot use. Particularly suited to films up to ISO 400/27° this developer will produce negatives with fine grain and excellent sharpness. Use once then discard"
"The stop bath contains an indicating dye to tell you when it is exhausted, and the solution will turn from straw coloured to magenta. Re-use only in same session. Max capacity 8 films"
"The fixer is ILFORD Rapid fixer, a dilution of 1+5 has been chosen and is well suited to single use application. Re-use only in the same session. Max capacity 8 films"
Hope this helps!
the dark bag has a little window light proof or something to watch what you're doing or inside of it or just take practice?
It all comes down to practice! Once you do it a few times it becomes simpler. You can practice with all the material (minus the actual film) outside the bag to get your bearings first.
If you are developing one roll 35mm, do use the same amount of the chemicals and 600ml or just half ?
I think it should be half the amount (you can have a measurement on the flipside of the tank, at least I have that there)
Very informative thank you
Hey, I am really new in developing film. I ordered ilford Multigrade to develop my film 35mm
But now I'm confused as I only see this beeing used for the paper and not the roll.
Can I still use this to develop my film or do I have to buy the Ilford Microphen or the Ilford Ilfosol3 ???
Thank you.
Hi Tara, so the Ilford Multigrade developer is used to develop the image on paper after the film has already been processed and developed. It is NOT suitable for developing film.
Depending on the film you are trying to develop, I would check out the Ilford developer guide: www.ilfordphoto.com/beginners-guide-film-developers/
For color, check out C-41 kits.
Hope this helps!
I got the Ilford Simplicity kit .. but there are no official charts if you are trying to process non Ilford types of films .. like Holga 400 which be under the foma umbrella of films. Just trying to get a time sheet on how long. Some sites say one thing others say another, which is accurate?
Hi Jody! Film has a lot of flexibility depending on what speed you shot the film and what you want the final product to look like. We are finding Holga may fall around 6:30 minutes developing time but this isn't exact. The best way to ensure the correct timing is to shoot a test roll and do some experimenting. This way you can dial in your timing without guessing in the future. Hope this helps!
is this kit only good for one use? I'm a little lost as to if this can be used for 1-2 rolls at a time or peroid?
Technically, everything except for the developer can be used for up to 8 rolls with proper storage/re-sealing of the sachets (or within the same session)! The developer is single-use. You can find their recommendations here - www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1730/
if you are only developing 1 roll of 35 mm film, do you use the same amount of chemicals? or do you use less?
Hi Sarah! You can use the same amount for one roll as you would with two because the chemicals are pre-measured out for two rolls (maintaining the correct dilution ratio). You are able to do the same developing with half the intended chemicals for one roll however, for this you will need to calculate the proper ratios for each chemical/water. Hope this helps!
I’m in the tropics - so it’s warmer here than where you are. What would you say would be ideal temp for room temperature? I may have to have ice cubes and a liquid bath to keep temp constant
For example saw online some saying 20C is ideal for BW. My location is 29C! And can go up to 31C.
Hi @Satyarod! It is recommended to develop at room temp (20C like you stated) but with black and white there is a lot more room for variation than color film. It's hard to say whether or not you will get good results and may require some trial runs to make sure it works out. 31C will likely be too warm and will require incredibly short and inconsistent processing times. We don't recommend above 25C for the best possible results. Hope this helps!
Great video. I would like to ask if I have this kit, How can I develop colour film? Do I have to buy different liquid? Thank you
Hello Klaudia, thank you for your question! You are not able to develop color film with the Ilford Simplicity kit as the chemicals are different. We suggest a C41 developing kit.
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo Thank you ☺️
Are the timings for FP4+ the same?
Hi Noyan! The times are different. Here is a chart from Ilford - www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1568/
Hello,
When I am filling in the developer etc it doesnt have to be dark as the film is in the tank, right? Sorry for that stupid question, but I never did it before.
The only stupid question is the one you never ask! The tank will be light sealed as soon as it clicks together! So when you are pouring into the tank, there your film will never see light. Make sure the tank is put together properly and you will be good to go.
I'm new to film and this video gave me some confidence in developing my own B&W film. I saw that you mentioned that the Developing tank was for B&W film. What's the difference between this tank and any other tank?
Hi Nick! You can develop black & white or color in any developing tank! Some are geared towards use in an actual darkroom while others can be used anywhere (strong light seals).
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo what would be an affordable option for one that could be used in lit areas?
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I love the video and I will you as you professionally proposed and so kindly showed BUT more important thing how do you properly dispose these chemicals because skipping the most important part it is barbaric and prehistoric. So please advice in how to really properly dispose those liquids who clearly are not suited for a normal sink. and I put the planet first. please advice asap
Thank you
@@iLVCA I'm really pleased to read your comment. I also see french photographers videos, and I have always realized that USA photographers never talk about how, and where it is possible to disposal the chemicals to protect the environment. Greetings. 👍
@@elierfernandezguerra Finally someone that is active and towards the planet!
Thank you!
The Ilford video doesnt give the same developing time, how come?
We recommend following the times given in the Simplicity Kit. That said, times can vary a little without issues. Have fun! Tech Info: www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1567/
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I printed the charts and followed them by the book. Very cool experience! My photos were a little bit grainer than at the lab, do you know why?
@@swisswildpicsswp3095 Excellent! Grain can be very cool, but if you want to know more, look into the numerous factors involved, like the type and speed of the film used, how the film was exposed, the developer, how it was developed, etc. We don't have a video on this, but if you search the web - you'll find plenty of info out there. Hope this helps to get you started!
@@swisswildpicsswp3095 Film can go grainy just before they over-develop. Could be caused by over-agitation, development time too long, developer mixing not measured accurately or time not corrected for temperature (it is a chemical reaction, so the higher the temperature, the quicker the chemical process.
Would suggest mixing all the chemicals before starting and RINSE the measuring jug before mixing each chemical. Digital kitchen scales are good for measuring water, 100ml of water at 20 degrees Celsius weighs 100grams. I was taught to use a water bath kept at 20 degrees Celsius, in which all the chemical bottles would be placed and allowed to warm and stabilise. Also the developing tank would be placed in the water bath between agitations.
It is only the developer that is actually time and temperature critical. By always developing at the same temperature creates a constant between each developing session, to compare results (i.e grainy film from one session). The bath water would then be used for rinsing the film, thus not shocking the film with sudden cold water.
@@wibbley1 I now develop with Rodinal 1% and have results I love. Good contrast and definition
So you don't seem to need to rinse, say, the stop bath out before the fixer step. I guess Ilford has clarified the chemicals such that adverse reactions don't occur?
Hi! Rinsing between the stop bath and fixer step is not necessary. There should be adverse reaction.
Are any of these chemicals reusable?
For this kit, Ilford recommends one processing "session." You will need to add time on the second roll if you choose to process one at a time vs. two at one time. Link to the Tech Info (scroll to the bottom of the link): www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1947/product/1567/ This kit is more of an introduction to film processing or to be a fun family project. Progressing from here, you would learn to mix chemical batches specifically for the desired outcome, etc. This process can certainly be rewarding, but it's much more involved. Hope this helps!
How often can i use the devlooper and fixer ? I mean how often do I devloop to hp5 film.
Ilford recommends not reusing the fixer but you are able to reuse the developer with some dilution. For the correct ratios visit this link for the data sheets - www.ilfordphoto.com/1178856
Is there a kit like this that would develope 120 film?
They have an updated kit allows you to develop 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120mm at a time!
www.huntsphotoandvideo.com/detail_page.cfm?productid=1178858&mfg=Ilford&show=yes
If Paterson Tank is 500 ml (2 reels) How will you pour 600 ml of anything into it?
The tank is 600ml
I can do without stop bath ?
Hi! Stop bath is recommended but not required. You will need to rinse your film multiple times after developing if you choose not to use stop bath. Hope this helps!
Can I use a pack of medicine to develop two rolls of 120 film? I have a JOBO1520, which can install two rolls of 120 film at the same time. Can I use a pack of medicine to process them at the same time?
We would not recommend using medicine to develop film. If you have the Simplicity Starter Kit you can develop one roll of 120 film. If you would like to develop 2 at the same time, you would need to double the chemicals or use a conversion chart for different chemical dilutions!
@@HuntsPhotoandVideo I understand. Thank you for your answer.
OK, but cut the film outside the dark bag first. You do not need to pop off the canister lid, just feed out the film on to the spiral as you go in the dark bag. Once you open the film canister you can't take your hands out of the dark bag if something goes wrong. Don't make problems for yourself.
Using Portra 400 as the example roll oh the horror
Please help, I’m new to film. Is this the same process and measurements for color negatives??
There will be a difference in some of the chemicals as well as the temperature needed to develop color film. Good luck and check out this breakdown for developing your color film! If you have any other questions don't hesitate to give us a call and speak to some of our lab technicians (781-662-8822).
parallaxphotographic.coop/how-to-develop-colour-film/