thx for the explanation it helps me a ton. good video i always run into these and dont knw how to adjust it. In Canada we need our Gas 1 to work on anything bigger then 500,000btuh this is simple enough to run thru. 2 thumbs up.
Great video! It must be that time of year I just did a cambridge unit and working on editing a new greenheck video, interesting set up on their new modulating valve.
Correct, this is a direct fired unit. The CO levels are very low. As you know, Co is from incomplete combustion. It's hard to have incomplete combustion when you're cramming that much air behind the burner.
May I ask about the make up air unit? My unit when the weather below 15 degrees than the burner it’s not working. Can’t find the reason, already change the flame and gas valve, but until same problem. If you know what happens, Please let me know and thank you
It could be several different things, you just got to find out what's not running when it should be running. If you got an electrical meter and the schematic you should be good to go.
Any idea why the flame would start high then goes low and stays there, the modulator is good, remote temp selector seems to be good, now it could be either air discharge sensor or amplifier, when replacing air discharge sensor with 10k ohms potentiometer the amplifier reacts to the resistance variation and flame get adjusted. When measuring the air discharge sensor resistance it's within range. What do you think about this situation?
@@HVACRSurvival thank for your reply, by lowering sensitivity that did make it work. However, even at high temp like 90F modulator doesn't stay fully open, only 2-4 second then goes to 8-9V instead of 24V, I thinking maybe air discharge sensor is not responding right to heat?
I had the same problem the other day and eve though the pressure switches were making the problem was in the inside vents near the exhaust hood, the vents were plug with debris and that was making the flames going crazy and there is un upgrade for that Honeywell control is a fireye m4rt1.
Yes but remember carbon monoxide is a result of incomplete combustion, incomplete combustion comes from improper air and fuel mixture, there is a lot of excess air with this so there's not a lot of Co. it's really no different than a salamander or a unvented wall heater. Also remember they have exhaust fans on, pulling it out the other side. This heat is just to temper the air, not warm the building.
@@HVACRSurvival I'd actually bee thinking of possible excess CO2 and reduction in O2, but I guess that probably isn't a problem in this use. BTW, I've never seen an unvented furnace or water heater where Iive. Different part of the country, I guess.
@@HVACRSurvival So. California. I should also say I'm just Joe Average and not an HVAC guy, so I'm a lot more familiar with residential and light commercial practice than I am with large buildings. But I'm pretty sure the building codes here require fires to be vented.
I have found when you have such a large inconsistant minimum, yet pressure drop is o.k. someone enlarged orifice holes during cleaning. Probably too big a drill bit was used. This scenario also could come from someone enlarging holes trying to get more heat out of it. (Re-engineering) They accomplish a higher overall temp. drop on that super cold day, but screw you forever on the mild days. Good video!
They burn clean, I haven't put my co detector in the air stream before but it's cleaner than a salamander 🤣. The CO is very low with all the excess air.
Best thing to do with that is rip out the flame rod and convert it over to a UV scanner. Flame rods suck hard to get a good reliable signal out of those.
That's a good idea, I don't have a lot of experience with these controllers, what kind of money would something like that run, don't you have to change one of the cards and add a uv sensor?
CO is from incomplete combustion. This is burning clean and the co it's very low and the exhaust is pulling out just slightly less than what's being pushed into the building.
@@HVACRSurvival That's actually kind of amazing. I guess it's not much different than running your stove and burners in your house. :) LOVE your videos. Thanks!
My place of employment cuts steel for these and other units. Kinda nice to see the end product in action. Keep up the great vids!
Interesting, thanks 4 sharing 👍👍
thx for the explanation it helps me a ton. good video i always run into these and dont knw how to adjust it. In Canada we need our Gas 1 to work on anything bigger then 500,000btuh this is simple enough to run thru. 2 thumbs up.
Check out captiveaires website and RUclips page they have quite a bit of information out there. Also download their manual it's very detailed.
Wait till it’s like below zero outside lol 😂 that’s why proper pms are a must on these units 👍🏻 great job bud
That's exactly why I try to do it while it's half ass decent and only 23* LOL outside
Troubleshooting through the lens of maintenance. Awesome!!
I appreciate you taking the time to watch it 👍👍
New fanz here sir, from KSA to philippinez...
Thankz for sharing uz anyway...
Awesome to hear! Thank you so much. Welcome aboard 👍👍
Great video! I've never seen that setup. Very interesting
Great video very thorough inspection
Thanks, I try to do it right the first trip.
Good post. Worked on one of those about 5 yrs ago, only time I had ever seen one.
I usually see a handful a year. That's why I have to look things up, I can't remember everything. Thanks 4 watching!
Good video. Very helpful. Thanks Rick.
Awesome. I'm glad it was useful 👍👍
Good one Rick 👍
Very good vid Rick ... You should do more of em ... Lol ... Hey to Chronic ...
I'll think about it 🙄
Great video. New to servicing mua units. Trying to learn all I can.
Just read the manual, it's very good.
Great job Rick!! Those are always a pia because there never set up right when o get to them
Sounds like you've dealt with this kind of crap before 👍👍 Thanks for watching!
Great video! It must be that time of year I just did a cambridge unit and working on editing a new greenheck video, interesting set up on their new modulating valve.
I just love those Cambridge units, I worked on my first one last year 🤏. that was a lot of fun, Said no one 🙄
Great job 👏
Great video , mostly see enginered air in my area , and i love getting stuck
Getting stuck inside them.
Great video thank you HVAC mech in NJ
🤜🤛👍👍
Great work !
So these things just pump the CO into the building and rely on the hood exhaust to pull it back out?
Correct, this is a direct fired unit. The CO levels are very low. As you know, Co is from incomplete combustion. It's hard to have incomplete combustion when you're cramming that much air behind the burner.
Yep
You’re so smart.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing. I guess as long as the kitchen exhaust is also working you’re fine.
@@keehn20 who me? 🤣 I just get lucky.
From my experiences the cluster pilot looked correct 👍
That was an interesting one.
Thanks Pepsi!
Actually rather fascinated by these.
Same
im just trying to think what the inventor was saying when he created that thing "it is a flamethrower with a fan on it"
Glad I’m not the only one 🤣
May I ask about the make up air unit? My unit when the weather below 15 degrees than the burner it’s not working. Can’t find the reason, already change the flame and gas valve, but until same problem. If you know what happens, Please let me know and thank you
It could be several different things, you just got to find out what's not running when it should be running. If you got an electrical meter and the schematic you should be good to go.
For a dfg burner we check the heated area ( room test) for co & co2 with analyser
Allen head tool works good also.
Any idea why the flame would start high then goes low and stays there, the modulator is good, remote temp selector seems to be good, now it could be either air discharge sensor or amplifier, when replacing air discharge sensor with 10k ohms potentiometer the amplifier reacts to the resistance variation and flame get adjusted. When measuring the air discharge sensor resistance it's within range. What do you think about this situation?
There should be a potentiometer on there that tells it how fast it's to react. It's either set too sensitive or not sensitive enough.
@@HVACRSurvival thank for your reply, by lowering sensitivity that did make it work. However, even at high temp like 90F modulator doesn't stay fully open, only 2-4 second then goes to 8-9V instead of 24V, I thinking maybe air discharge sensor is not responding right to heat?
That's rick that was a got lesson 👍
I had the same problem the other day and eve though the pressure switches were making the problem was in the inside vents near the exhaust hood, the vents were plug with debris and that was making the flames going crazy and there is un upgrade for that Honeywell control is a fireye m4rt1.
What does the upgrade do? FireEye is a competitor of Honeywell?
Was I understanding that right that the combustion products mix into the warm air stream for the building?
Yes but remember carbon monoxide is a result of incomplete combustion, incomplete combustion comes from improper air and fuel mixture, there is a lot of excess air with this so there's not a lot of Co. it's really no different than a salamander or a unvented wall heater. Also remember they have exhaust fans on, pulling it out the other side. This heat is just to temper the air, not warm the building.
@@HVACRSurvival I'd actually bee thinking of possible excess CO2 and reduction in O2, but I guess that probably isn't a problem in this use. BTW, I've never seen an unvented furnace or water heater where Iive. Different part of the country, I guess.
@@lwilton what state you in
@@HVACRSurvival So. California.
I should also say I'm just Joe Average and not an HVAC guy, so I'm a lot more familiar with residential and light commercial practice than I am with large buildings. But I'm pretty sure the building codes here require fires to be vented.
@@lwilton california answers the question. To many laws and regulations.
That’s the same looking controls that they use on car wash car dryers I just worked on one of those the other day.
They seem to have the market on variable gas valves. I haven't seen too many problems with their controls.
Great video!! Ebay special you say? 😀
I have found when you have such a large inconsistant minimum, yet pressure drop is o.k. someone enlarged orifice holes during cleaning. Probably too big a drill bit was used. This scenario also could come from someone enlarging holes trying to get more heat out of it. (Re-engineering) They accomplish a higher overall temp. drop on that super cold day, but screw you forever on the mild days. Good video!
Good point, I'll definitely keep that in mind 👍👍
That was interesting
I'm glad you liked it Nate thanks for watching 👍👍
Do these send the combustion gases down in the building to ?
Just like a torpedo heater on natural gas.
How do these not produce CO and push it into the building? Probably a stupid question. Great video Rick 👌
Cool smokestacks at the end
They burn clean, I haven't put my co detector in the air stream before but it's cleaner than a salamander 🤣. The CO is very low with all the excess air.
Can you make more video on captive air!
Did you see the link in the beginning to a couple others that I made?
Best thing to do with that is rip out the flame rod and convert it over to a UV scanner. Flame rods suck hard to get a good reliable signal out of those.
That's a good idea, I don't have a lot of experience with these controllers, what kind of money would something like that run, don't you have to change one of the cards and add a uv sensor?
I'm not seeing everything. Where is the heat exchanger? I only see fan and flame = CO
It's called direct fire. There is no heat exchanger.
CO is from incomplete combustion. This is burning clean and the co it's very low and the exhaust is pulling out just slightly less than what's being pushed into the building.
@@HVACRSurvival That's actually kind of amazing. I guess it's not much different than running your stove and burners in your house. :) LOVE your videos. Thanks!
these days, you'll have all the "I broke a nail" workers in the kitchen freezing below 75F lol
Those always break when it's cold out lol. You'd be surprised how most of those are never set right
Unfortunately this world's full of lazy people, no one wants to do anything more than what's required of them.
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
I bought the 7800 burner control display on ebay for i think 25 dollars
You got a heck of a good deal. I think I paid $75 or $85 and they're a lot more than that new
How does this system not bring carbon monoxide ?
exhaust fans pull it out, should be interlocked
Those inspection ports are useless, 99% of the time can’t see through them.
Worked in a captive aire yesterday that was stuck in high flame
What did you end up replacing?
@@HVACRSurvival need to go back.
Discharge air temp sensor is open, needs belts and filters too
@@WswRefrigeration usually that sensor mounted inside blower compartment is the culprit
#161 thumbs uP
This is a Greenheck MUA unit not CaptiveAire
A lot of them are all owned by the same company
Greenheck is not affiliated with captiveaire I’m almost certain
Ok
Show me more. Please
That's a greenheck not captiveaire.
These companies are all owned by the same people
To bad this is not a CaptiveAire unit it says Greenheck on the door
Most of the company's are all owned buy one or two company now.
Bx belts are shit,they chew up ever motor sheave..use a regular B belt
Depends on the RPM and alignment. They work better than a B when they are loose from lack of maintenance.
make-up air hating =p