Thought I'd add a little more about the vtec system on this car. After checking the code, first check the oil level on the dipstick!! When I worked at the Honda Dealer back in '99 saw several car with this problem, at high rpm red-line it will starve the system for oil. Drive it like you stole it to duplicate, the customer will never admit he was driving the piss out of it.
Interesting that the ECM commands the VTEC solenoid on and then verifies it through the oil pressure switch,I always thought it worked opposite. Thanks you are an excellent instructor! Was chasing this code but an oil change cured it,I had used a good amount of Permatex engine assembly lube after a top end rebuild and apparently it altered the oil viscosity.
I'm learning a lot about understanding diagrams and diagnosing problems with my 1999 honda. but I am mesmerized by his magical computer monitor interface.
Paul, great video as usual. Although I have no VTEC problems on my 2000 Accord I always find it beneficial to learn from your videos for possible future reference. Thanks again for taking the time to share your valuable knowledge with us...
Just found a P1259 on my 02 Acura 3.5v6 today, though 6 years behind this video provides crucial information that which I am thankful. Appreciate ya Danner bro thanks.
I would be concerned that changing the valve lift with the VTEC at Idle could be a risky move due to the valves hitting the pistons, but obviously it worked fine. This is the first thing that came to mind when I watched this video. I know there are different variable cam/valve timing designs which may or may not be an issue if you manually (electrically bypass) change the valve lift or cam timing at idle. This is still a very good video. Keep up the good work!
@jlawrodgers Ok, system voltage sounds good. You need to shift your focus away from the V-Tech system and check your fuel pressure and exhaust backpressure. It sounds like you may be either starving for fuel or you have a restricted exhaust. Of course it could be other things too, but I would start there. BTW both of these testing methods are in my book. Fuel pressure should not drop under load (when you hit the throttle) and exhaust backpressure should = no more than 2psi@3000rpm
u guys r the man, i was so close to bringing my car to the dealer and this video help me out big time. found out i had a bad ecu. thanx alot scannerdanner
Thanks. Done many of those vtec solenoid gasket and vtec valve body gasket for leaks. Usually a vtec code p1259 is due to oil level being low. We have a lot of bad vtec solenoids go bad on 03 and up 4 cyl Accords. I'm very much enjoying your book.
@ScannerDanner The Voltage at idle is 15.04 .at about 1500-2000 ,it actually drops to 14.78 . as far as the vtec problem,when I hit the throttle , it bogs down,and then stalls, then comes back to "life" when I back off the throttle. besides that ,it runs just fine. thanks ,again for your input
@zachattack42289 With no oil pressure the VTEC switch is closed which pulls the signal voltage to ground. When the VTEC solenoid is energized, the oil pressure opens the switch and signal voltage goes high (12 in this case). Don't get the solenoid and switch mixed up. When the solenoid is "on", the VTEC switch is open (12v signal). When the solenoid is "off", the VTEC switch is closed (0v signal). Hopefully I cleared that up, let me know
Please explain how solenoid ON changes RPMs. I thought solenoid ON = VTEC ON = rocker arms follow higher cam lobes = valves open longer, which is not a function of RPMs.
If you're changing a cam profile at a time when it shouldn't be, you'll definitely get an rpm change, and in this case a drop as it is not ideal for idle conditions
Thanks for the video! It might help me figure something out on my truck. VTM is VTM-4 lock. My 03 Honda Pilot had a misfire with the CEL on recently. Got misfires on three cylinders with reader. The check engine light went off but I went ahead and changed the plugs and started throwing coils at it which helped but didn't make it better because I still feel an intermittent misfire (was a dead miss) and it's also got a leak somewhere but fluids seem to stay okay when I check them. It has put black oily gunk all over my engine and want to get it fixed. It has coated the transmission so wondering if it is a seal. Very new to doing stuff to my own vehicle so really dont know what to look for in a leak to identify its source. Back to the subject about VTM, I am going to try to change my vtm differential fluid to see if that helps the computer time itself with the vtec. I haven't had any lights since or codes on scanner but there has to be a reason that came up with the cel, went away but code read generic misfire around that same time...and she is still not running like herself. Also one of your videos gave me the confidence to do the cylinder drop test. Thanks again!
Hey paul,the circuit that you 've checked is in charge of controling variable valve lifting and this is matter because the solenoid is just on/off type,and about vvt system the solenoid actuator driver design would be PWM ,so would it be possible to energise that type of circuit like what you apply in this video? sorry if my english language might be bad. REGARDS.
Hello Paul. Could you also check the solenoid for over current( maybe less than 1.2A) to eliminate a driver concern from an internally shorted solenoid? what I have heard is if a solenoid draws more than 1.2 A except for GDI system, the pcm driver can take a big hit and get damaged. In my opinion, I am pretty sure, most drivers can still be protected above 1.2 A because of more protection added in the modern vehicle sofwares.
isn't it always best then to disconnect the plug when injecting a voltage to a component to prevent damage to the ECU? or alternatively maybe a current limiting resistor or 12v zener diode be place in series with the jumper lead.
Question, I completely understand that to show procedure you take us through all of the steps and I love that, however Couldn't you probe the solenoid and take a measurement at WOT to verify the wiring, pres switch, and driver are working?
Being a honda tech and knowing that this vintage 2.3 accord engines like to burn oil with high mileage the #1 issue with this vtec system malfunction dtc is low oil. If the oil is low or was low and the oil was changed this code will store
My 2003 Element's VTEC crapped out because I let oil get too low. It's crucial to do regular oil changes and keep oil level normal with VTEC system. Once I changed my oil my VTEC resumed working.
I know you are activating the solenoid to show the reaction of the oil switch but in its operation on the car is it not the oil pressure opening the oil switch which in turn signals the solenoid circuit to activate the solenoid which in turns operates the vtec or am I getting this round the wrong way good video paul am just slow with this info just now
Hwy Scanner Danner. This is great....I'm a high school Tech Teacher... How do you control your scan tool from the Smart Board? I've been wanting to do this for years!!!
I put gasket maker around the top of the solenoid were it meets the sensor. because that's were it was leaking from. vtech finally fixed. Still fallowed steps from video.
@jlawrodgers Over 15 volts is not good at about 15.5 volts you will start to cook the battery. What is voltage at the battery at 1500-2000RPM in park? Does is stall like someone shut the key off or does it bog and then stall?
Thank you for the reply and the video. You cannot recall the scenario? Was wondering if it was by the tachometer, or engine load? I cannot with ivtec get the ecu to call the solenoid. Connections are all good and solenoid actuates. No vtech codes otherwise.
very helpful. though it doesnt help me figure out why i get my code 1259 before my engine even starts sometimes.unless maybe my oil pressure switch is sticking open sometimes and that sets the code? i only get the code at low rpms. never gives me a code above 2500rpm. some days i can drive it hard all day no problem and then randomly or if its cold the next morning the code is back before i start driving. oil screen and oil level are clean and good
Need help. My pressure switch (02) has only 2 pins. I guess that is the 'switch' and it switches the ECU wire to ground? Essentially an open switch closes when there's sufficient pressure. Working from home with just an ohm-meter.
My daughter just had a friend change her oil 2 weeks ago. She drove to work 9 days, 4 mi each way. I borrowed yesterday and just happened to check her oil out of habit. Nothing on dipstick so decided to put a quart in, ended up putting 4 1/2 quarts in to show on dipstick. 99 honda accord vtec 120000 mi and can hardly hear run. Ended up person got distracted after draining oil and putting on filter. Forgot to go back with oil. Thank God she never drove for longer period of time. Running great. Funny part is, no codes! Especially being vtec. Commments?
Hi paul, i have a stream rn3 k20a. I am having this issues with same code as your videos. Before, i just replacing the vtech selenoid without checking the volume volt as you explain. So, does your solution lasting?tq
hi paul greetings of the day can u will the pressure switch in terme of pressure that if there will be pressure it will be off or on coz in terms of volts i m a bit confused thanks
My name is Paul but that's okay. I get Dan a lot. No I have not had any issues with doing this test other than the engine getting rough due to incorrect valve timing at idle with the solenoid energized.
So.. the VTEC Oil Pressure switch is not controlling the solenoid, but providing a signal to confirm that oil pressure is hydraulically switching the VTEC on, right?
correct, it is simply a feedback to tell the ECM the VTEC solenoid did it's job. Hydraulic psi is what moves the VTEC oil psi switch position. And this psi change comes from an oil passage the VTEC solenoid controls. Make sense?
@@ScannerDanner yes it does and thanks so much for the reply. While I have you I just want to say that I saw your book recommended on another youtube channel (western truck and tractor repair). I bought the online book, working through it. That and your videos equal the highest quality instruction I've come across on any subject. Fantastic work and many thanks.
@@ScannerDanner I kept thinking that the switch was there to tell the pcm that there is sufficient oil pressure before it activates the solenoid, which would make sense. I am pretty sure a lot of people think that way. Thank you for letting us know that it is used as feedback.
Please Paul or somebody else,help me with this question;In a 1998 accord 2.3l ,engine running applying 12 volt to the Vtec solenoid,it is normal to still have,one and a half volt on the vtec oil pressure switch blue black wire?I think is the ground signal to pcm(multimeter positive side to 12 volt battery post,negative side to blue black wire vtec oil pressure switch).because apparently all my system is working normal,but about 50 miles of driving I'm still getting the p1259 code.thanks in advance for your response. Vtec sol new,vtec oil pressure switch new,engine oil 5w30 fool,wiring tested good.
Great video i learnt so much!!! Can i request for a similar video in regards to honda's VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor? OBD code is P0500? I'm having trouble with my s2000 03 model, i've basically almost done everything in mind to stop it. I try avoid resetting it because i want to properly resolve the problem. Any ideas in mind if you could help? Thanks
Did you replace the sensor if you did and you drove it an the check engine light didn't go out you might have something wrong with the tone gear inside the transmission that or you bought a cheap s***** aftermarket sensor and didn't go Honda OEM even the wrong oil filter can cause that car to have a s*** ton of problems
if Vtec system malfunction will it cause the RPM to Flush while driving and Stall? And did you say if there oil in the Vtec solenoid connector , should i change the solenoid? this happen on my 04 honda accord .....
Hi, my 2006 Honda CRV has engine warning light with p2646 code. I tested as you show on this video. When I touch the signal wire of the vtec solenoid in the engine off, I can hear clicking sound, but with engine running there is no rpm change and vtec switch is still 0 voltage indicated. What problem would be? Low oil pressure? If yes, what components would be fault?
@@ScannerDanner I agree. The clicking noise confirms that the solenoid is working, that is, the solenoid is moving the spool valve. But it doesn't confirm that oil is being sent to the VTEC rocker arm pins. Clogged screen will cause problems.
Hi, I have a question about my vtec operation, that maybe you can answer , about my 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. I havent owned the car very long, but when I hit the throttle to kick in the Vtec, it stalls.. I have to go thru all of these checks but the first thing i noticed is that my voltage is over 15 volts . do you think that that could be too much voltage for the solenoid ? thanks for any help.
I have a 98 civic coupe d15b, the vtec on it gose not work then running at normal engine optimization but sometimes in the morning it would turn on at 5 and a half but not hard ????
My Vtec on my 2000 Accord 2.3l is not activating. Solenoid is clicking when I tested it. Their is good ground, checked continuity. Signal wire has power when not connected to solenoid. When the signal wire gets connected to the solenoid and I run the car to energize the solenoid their is no change in rpms? Their is .034mv at idle on the solenoid. Don't know if their is a relay problem or this just goes to the ECM with no other signals. My idle rpm is 700 not 750 which is suppose to be. At park when I rev it up to 5000 rpms, the engine shutters, holds back so that the engine doesn't go pass 5000 rpms? Is this a ECM issue? Vtec code of P1259 on check engine light turns back on after I reset it and drive the car for awhile on the freeway.
Yes their is a 12V voltage on the solenoid wire unplug and when it's plugged in their is 0V? that's ok because the oil pressure signal wire should supply the current through the ECM right, but it's 0V when idling and also when I increase rpm's pass 3000 rpms? Their is good continuity on all wires. I suspect their is very little oil pressure which means my oil pump, because the car has clean oil. Very weak engine when I increase rpm's according to my scanner the load value goes down. Should I flush the engine, clean the oil pump or replace it?
@@ScannerDanner I fixed the VTEC issue! Turned out when I checked my oil pressure on the back underside of the engine the oil pressure was very high! I took it to a shop to get the oil unclogged with engine flush, since I didn't have a machine to recirculate the oil I wasn't able to flush it myself... So the oil pressure is at spec's, but the VTEC wasn't engaging still? I got an opinion from another mechanic who wasn't sure what was causing the car's VTEC issues? But on just hearing the motor he said I first needed to get my valves adjusted, because the engine was so noisy you would think I had a diesel engine? But instead of paying him I did it myself and while adjusting the intake/outtake exhaust I decided to inspect the VTEC assembly too. Turned out their were some bolts that were loose so that was the reason I felt the need to pull out the entire VTEC assembly. I cleaned all the passages and even though I didn't see any noticeable clogs on any of the port passages I still went through them all just to be safe.... I ran the engine and no more noise and no more VTEC problems. I took the car for a spin and ran the scanner and my VTEC was turning on/off when I increased rpm's and the engine went into gear! Paul this brings me to another problem I already had on this reconstructed engine I bought, which was a mistake I should have gotten a used engine from Japan. However, the engine timing on cylinder #1 is at 7 degrees and rpm +/- (700-800)... This is when the engine is warmed. I remind you I've had these problems already for a year at the time the VTEC code turned on a year from now, as well. My fuel is running lean at variable (-7%) on long term fuel trim levels. And now the knock sensor code P0325 turned on, but it's not the sensor or wires for I have already diagnosed them? Are the belts off timing for their is a feel of lag on the motor still, PCM or can this get fix by adjusting the idle speed like some mechanic said, since as you know these distributors are non-adjustable? At the moment I am putting in new brushes on my alternator that are going bad. Another mechanic said it might be correlated with the PCM and knock sensor, because when pressure gets released on the pedal when I am driving the alternator goes to zero, the dashboard lights turns red on the brake light, and passenger doors!
My solenoid clicks when I apply power. But when I start the engine and apply power the rpm doesn't change like in the video. whats the next step, is it a bad solenoid?
Okay sweet, you did the first step. No change in RPM is either a mechanical problem with the actuator or a hydraulic issue. Maybe a plunger screen on the inlet of the actuator
It depends on the solenoid resistance. Yes on some, no on others. If the solenoid normally draws about 300ma, then yes, an incandescent test light will carry enough current flow to energize it. Not completely, but enough to create a magnetic field strong enough to open the solenoid.
Hello, my h22 vtec has a malfunction problem, it is making a ticking noice when it idles and when I drive it in 1st and 2nd gear, any clue what the problem is and how to fix it?
The fuse in my jumper wire only protects the jumper wire from catching fire if I touch a power and ground at the same time. In no way shape of form does a fuse in a jumper wire protect the computer driver. If you get your polarity mixed up you will still fry the computer even with a fuse in your jumper wire.
But how , if the rate of amprage go over of ,,,let say 5amp,and the fuse is 5A ,so it would blow and cut the circuit,it's my imagination,please correct me if i'm wrong
I did an oil change on my 2002 Honda Accord, my check engine light is still on. I reset the code and when I get about 3500 RPM the check engine light comes back on. I changed the entire Vtech Solenoid and still getting the same code? I don’t know what’s next.. oil pressure sensor? Help
Nice video, very informative. Should there be continuity between the two terminals of the HARNESS of the pressure switch? Also, what does it mean if you measure 5V between terminal one of the pressure switch harness and ground, while the solenoid is not activated? You measure 0V in your video. Not sure why I am getting 5V.
On the psi switch itself. Yes and no as the switch opens and closes by hydraulic psi. As far as when it read 5 and when it reads 0 on the psi switch, I don't remember. (Thought it was 12) It is the change in voltage on the psi switch, as the solenoid is energized that is important
So if you energize the vtec solenoid, and you see no voltage change on the pressure switch, does this mean that the pressure switch is bad or is the ECM/PCM bad?
I have the same question. I just replaced the entire solenoid / pressure switch assembly with brand new OEM. When I energize the solenoid I do not see a voltage change on the pressure switch. I do not hear the sound of the engine change either. What does this mean?
My problem was fixed by replacing the entire solenoid / pressure switch assembly - it is possible mine was clogged. If you already did that, and you are not getting that voltage change on the pressure switch, it is possible your oil pressure is too low to activate the pressure switch. It is hydraulically activated. Get the kit from harbor freight for $20 if you don't already have one. You should get >10psi at idle, and >45psi at 3000rpms. Wait till the engine is hot to get your final reading. If your oil pressure is low, you may need a new oil pump and that could be the root cause. Also, make sure you have the multimeter hooked up to the black/blue wire.
Thanks Terp Guy. I think you are right on the money. It's got to be my oil pump gone bad. It's a little discouraging I have to take off the timing belt to get at it. I might as well replace that too along with the water pump. Big job. :/
Hi I have a 2008 Honda Civic Coupe The ECU does not send power to the VTEC solenoid valve when Rpm 6500 exceeded what could be the reason why not send the signal or current to the solenoid really hope you can help me.
IF there is a fault code for the solenoid, the computer may not send the signal to it to turn it on. Try this, and in this exact order. 1. Disconnect VTEC sol. 2. Connect an incandescent test light to the VTEC solenoid wire and ground. 3. Clear fault codes 4. Start engine and rev it over 4000 RPM, the test light should light up if the computer and wiring are good. Remember if the computer senses an open circuit during the above testing, it may not turn the circuit on.
+ScannerDanner hello test and perform as well as you told me, and tried the car from 4000 RPM to 6000 and did not turn on the light, check the wiring and is in good condition (with continuity) from the ECU. you think the computer is damaged or not programmed to send the signal to the solenoid VTEC? THANK YOU
I have a 99 Honda Accord I don't a head job on it and now before I done the head job on didn't have the code for a vtec solenoid but not coming back I put a new one on it and still have the same code every time I drive it ain't clear
Hey SD; i recently repaired my honda 98 vtec and the solenoid valve connector (pcm) side was severed so i found a similar connector and reattched it and plugged it back in the vtec solenoid; now below that which is my vtec oil pressure swicth that is broken off although the wiring is intact(connector) going to it; so heres my question is it safe to run my car with the oil pressure swicth not working ? I can hear the vtec engage as i accelerate and downshifts good aswell but the other day the car shut off coming to a stop on a highway the turn signals didnt activate but yeh ... any input ?
@@brionadderley1643 your symptom of stalling and turn signal issues has nothing to do with the VTEC psi switch not being connected. I am actually surprised the VTEC system kicks in at all with that switch out of the picture. You have another problem my friend. Look into where your turn signal circuit get power, in there you will probably find your stalling issue too. My guess is possibly an ignition switch problem. Smack on the bottom of the column, below the ignition switch and see if it makes the turn signals stop working on engine stalls to confirm.
Hey I was wondering if anybody could help me out well I have a weird problem I bought this 03 honda civic and I noticed the engine was replaced and the vtec solenoid was completely missing so I picked up a used one screwed it on and connect it as soon as I connected it and reset the ecu the engine light goes away for a while but as soon as I rev to 5000 rpm the engine light comes back on now here is the weird part when I connect the energizer wire the wire that goes to the solenoid the oil light comes on in the car when I disconnect the energizer wire the oil light goes off??? I'm thinking the last person who put the engine in didn't wire it up right or is it suppose to be that way.From my understanding from reading up online the oil pressure detector is suppose to be by the oil filter so why when I connect the energizer wire (the wire that goes to the solenoid to open the oil passage way)the oil light comes on???
+Malik Berry Malik, you can try posting this to my forum, one of the guys over there would be glad to look at a diagram and try to help. Thanks! www.scannerdanner.com
+ScannerDanner I figured it out the wireing was not right the wire that was going to the vtech solenoid valve was actually for the oil pressure sensor near the filter for the first time I got it to rev past 5000 but it only works every now and then I think the pressure switch is bad
Walmart craft section. Be careful with these, you can fry a computer driver if you don't use them properly. Also the jumper wire fuse in NO WAY protects the PCM driver. If you use a jumper wire to energize a solenoid and you chose the wrong polarity, you will fry the computer driver and it will not matter what fuse you have in the jumper wire. Please be careful with this type of testing!
im in a jam, 01 civic, same code, i put in new solenoid with pressure switch oem, changed oil, same code comes back 1259, what I noticed is have 6v on signal wire pressure switch engine idling. passed solenoid test
Thought I'd add a little more about the vtec system on this car. After checking the code, first check the oil level on the dipstick!! When I worked at the Honda Dealer back in '99 saw several car with this problem, at high rpm red-line it will starve the system for oil. Drive it like you stole it to duplicate, the customer will never admit he was driving the piss out of it.
Interesting that the ECM commands the VTEC solenoid on and then verifies it through the oil pressure switch,I always thought it worked opposite. Thanks you are an excellent instructor! Was chasing this code but an oil change cured it,I had used a good amount of Permatex engine assembly lube after a top end rebuild and apparently it altered the oil viscosity.
I'm learning a lot about understanding diagrams and diagnosing problems with my 1999 honda. but I am mesmerized by his magical computer monitor interface.
Paul, great video as usual. Although I have no VTEC problems on my 2000 Accord I always find it beneficial to learn from your videos for possible future reference. Thanks again for taking the time to share your valuable knowledge with us...
Just found a P1259 on my 02 Acura 3.5v6 today, though 6 years behind this video provides crucial information that which I am thankful. Appreciate ya Danner bro thanks.
great video, a big help. i have your class next as i am a rosedale student and im extremely excited. cant wait to pick your brain for 8 weeks.
I would be concerned that changing the valve lift with the VTEC at Idle could be a risky move due to the valves hitting the pistons, but obviously it worked fine. This is the first thing that came to mind when I watched this video. I know there are different variable cam/valve timing designs which may or may not be an issue if you manually (electrically bypass) change the valve lift or cam timing at idle. This is still a very good video. Keep up the good work!
@jlawrodgers Ok, system voltage sounds good. You need to shift your focus away from the V-Tech system and check your fuel pressure and exhaust backpressure. It sounds like you may be either starving for fuel or you have a restricted exhaust. Of course it could be other things too, but I would start there. BTW both of these testing methods are in my book. Fuel pressure should not drop under load (when you hit the throttle) and exhaust backpressure should = no more than 2psi@3000rpm
Thank you for this. I've seen and read about how VTEC solenoid and pressure switch works but nothing on how to test each component.
u guys r the man, i was so close to bringing my car to the dealer and this video help me out big time. found out i had a bad ecu. thanx alot scannerdanner
Thanks. Done many of those vtec solenoid gasket and vtec valve body gasket for leaks. Usually a vtec code p1259 is due to oil level being low. We have a lot of bad vtec solenoids go bad on 03 and up 4 cyl Accords. I'm very much enjoying your book.
Name of book?
Awesome video. It answered all my questions and curiosities about my Honda's 1259 code problem.
@ScannerDanner
I had to pull the intake to fix an egr blockage problem and since then, it has been running good..
thanks for the replys and help !
@ScannerDanner The Voltage at idle is 15.04 .at about 1500-2000 ,it actually drops to 14.78 .
as far as the vtec problem,when I hit the throttle , it bogs down,and then stalls, then comes back to "life" when I back off the throttle.
besides that ,it runs just fine.
thanks ,again for your input
lol, I was really joking. hey I'm a Rosedale Tech grad! but you wasn't there when I was. and I went to the old building across the bridge. great video
Really?Thank you for the response, buddy.I know you're a busy man.I enjoy your videos and we'll keep watching talk later
your the man got my Honda sorted thanks to ur vid, cheers
YOU ARE THE MAN .I AM LOVING YOUR BOOK.
Thank you
@Bushougoma That was a great description and exactly correct. Nice job
thank you for your videos, they are awesome. take care and blessing for you and your family too
Thank you Israel!
@zachattack42289 With no oil pressure the VTEC switch is closed which pulls the signal voltage to ground. When the VTEC solenoid is energized, the oil pressure opens the switch and signal voltage goes high (12 in this case). Don't get the solenoid and switch mixed up. When the solenoid is "on", the VTEC switch is open (12v signal). When the solenoid is "off", the VTEC switch is closed (0v signal). Hopefully I cleared that up, let me know
Thanks awesome! Thanks for the comment
Great thanks!
My 2003 civic ex would be a satisfying challenge for you. It hasn't had full power in well over a year....
Please explain how solenoid ON changes RPMs. I thought solenoid ON = VTEC ON = rocker arms follow higher cam lobes = valves open longer, which is not a function of RPMs.
If you're changing a cam profile at a time when it shouldn't be, you'll definitely get an rpm change, and in this case a drop as it is not ideal for idle conditions
Thanks for the video! It might help me figure something out on my truck. VTM is VTM-4 lock. My 03 Honda Pilot had a misfire with the CEL on recently. Got misfires on three cylinders with reader. The check engine light went off but I went ahead and changed the plugs and started throwing coils at it which helped but didn't make it better because I still feel an intermittent misfire (was a dead miss) and it's also got a leak somewhere but fluids seem to stay okay when I check them. It has put black oily gunk all over my engine and want to get it fixed. It has coated the transmission so wondering if it is a seal. Very new to doing stuff to my own vehicle so really dont know what to look for in a leak to identify its source. Back to the subject about VTM, I am going to try to change my vtm differential fluid to see if that helps the computer time itself with the vtec. I haven't had any lights since or codes on scanner but there has to be a reason that came up with the cel, went away but code read generic misfire around that same time...and she is still not running like herself. Also one of your videos gave me the confidence to do the cylinder drop test. Thanks again!
Hey paul,the circuit that you 've checked is in charge of controling variable valve lifting and this is matter because the solenoid is just on/off type,and about vvt system the solenoid actuator driver design would be PWM ,so would it be possible to energise that type of circuit like what you apply in this video?
sorry if my english language might be bad.
REGARDS.
Hello Paul. Could you also check the solenoid for over current( maybe less than 1.2A) to eliminate a driver concern from an internally shorted solenoid? what I have heard is if a solenoid draws more than 1.2 A except for GDI system, the pcm driver can take a big hit and get damaged. In my opinion, I am pretty sure, most drivers can still be protected above 1.2 A because of more protection added in the modern vehicle sofwares.
@ant1986fel good point! forgot to add that thanks
isn't it always best then to disconnect the plug when injecting a voltage to a component to prevent damage to the ECU? or alternatively maybe a current limiting resistor or 12v zener diode be place in series with the jumper lead.
Question, I completely understand that to show procedure you take us through all of the steps and I love that, however Couldn't you probe the solenoid and take a measurement at WOT to verify the wiring, pres switch, and driver are working?
+Matthew Tropp yes, that would work, but it takes everything working as it should to see the results you want
I understand, thank you for the reply you are an inspiration to aspiring technicians like myself!
Being a honda tech and knowing that this vintage 2.3 accord engines like to burn oil with high mileage the #1 issue with this vtec system malfunction dtc is low oil. If the oil is low or was low and the oil was changed this code will store
Great tip thanks
+Alexander R Genetic flaw wtf you smokin bro? Lmao
Thank you Benjamin!
My 2003 Element's VTEC crapped out because I let oil get too low. It's crucial to do regular oil changes and keep oil level normal with VTEC system. Once I changed my oil my VTEC resumed working.
I know you are activating the solenoid to show the reaction of the oil switch but in its operation on the car is it not the oil pressure opening the oil switch which in turn signals the solenoid circuit to activate the solenoid which in turns operates the vtec or am I getting this round the wrong way good video paul am just slow with this info just now
Hwy Scanner Danner. This is great....I'm a high school Tech Teacher... How do you control your scan tool from the Smart Board? I've been wanting to do this for years!!!
USB cable to the smart board. No different than your PC has. It has to be a windows based scan tool I'd imagine, like the Verus line up
thanks for the information blessings friend a question what kind of failure presents this presure suichw
Where can I get those T pins? Also, what value fuse are you using for your battery jumper wire? Great video!
Nice. Good tip
helped find my vtech issue. oil in the connection. But the question is why is oil in the connection?
terminals seal inside its body got dried and seeped oil through ... common issue with Hondas
I put gasket maker around the top of the solenoid were it meets the sensor. because that's were it was leaking from. vtech finally fixed. Still fallowed steps from video.
Angel T. Ik it’s been awhile but there is oil in mine too you say I clean it out then it’s all fixed and did it come back?
@jlawrodgers Over 15 volts is not good at about 15.5 volts you will start to cook the battery. What is voltage at the battery at 1500-2000RPM in park?
Does is stall like someone shut the key off or does it bog and then stall?
Most likely, just check your wiring diagram first to be sure.
During the test drive how did you get the ECU driver to command “on” at the VTEC solenoid as in the final graph?
if it was during a test drive, I simply met the conditions for that solenoid to turn on would be my guess
Thank you for the reply and the video. You cannot recall the scenario? Was wondering if it was by the tachometer, or engine load? I cannot with ivtec get the ecu to call the solenoid. Connections are all good and solenoid actuates. No vtech codes otherwise.
Couldn't spray some electrical connector cleaner to clean out the oil? These things also have a gasket/screen, check if that was dirty/clogged?
very helpful. though it doesnt help me figure out why i get my code 1259 before my engine even starts sometimes.unless maybe my oil pressure switch is sticking open sometimes and that sets the code? i only get the code at low rpms. never gives me a code above 2500rpm. some days i can drive it hard all day no problem and then randomly or if its cold the next morning the code is back before i start driving. oil screen and oil level are clean and good
Need help. My pressure switch (02) has only 2 pins. I guess that is the 'switch' and it switches the ECU wire to ground? Essentially an open switch closes when there's sufficient pressure. Working from home with just an ohm-meter.
My daughter just had a friend change her oil 2 weeks ago. She drove to work 9 days, 4 mi each way. I borrowed yesterday and just happened to check her oil out of habit. Nothing on dipstick so decided to put a quart in, ended up putting 4 1/2 quarts in to show on dipstick. 99 honda accord vtec 120000 mi and can hardly hear run. Ended up person got distracted after draining oil and putting on filter. Forgot to go back with oil. Thank God she never drove for longer period of time. Running great. Funny part is, no codes! Especially being vtec. Commments?
Count your blessings my friend
Hi paul, i have a stream rn3 k20a. I am having this issues with same code as your videos. Before, i just replacing the vtech selenoid without checking the volume volt as you explain. So, does your solution lasting?tq
Cool man, what year did you graduate? I was a 1993 grad.
hi paul greetings of the day can u will the pressure switch in terme of pressure that if there will be pressure it will be off or on coz in terms of volts i m a bit confused thanks
hi dan have you ever energized the vtec solenoid and had terrible noises from the valve train?
thanks
My name is Paul but that's okay. I get Dan a lot. No I have not had any issues with doing this test other than the engine getting rough due to incorrect valve timing at idle with the solenoid energized.
ScannerDanner Premium thanks paul!
So.. the VTEC Oil Pressure switch is not controlling the solenoid, but providing a signal to confirm that oil pressure is hydraulically switching the VTEC on, right?
correct, it is simply a feedback to tell the ECM the VTEC solenoid did it's job. Hydraulic psi is what moves the VTEC oil psi switch position. And this psi change comes from an oil passage the VTEC solenoid controls. Make sense?
@@ScannerDanner yes it does and thanks so much for the reply. While I have you I just want to say that I saw your book recommended on another youtube channel (western truck and tractor repair). I bought the online book, working through it. That and your videos equal the highest quality instruction I've come across on any subject. Fantastic work and many thanks.
Awesome, thank you! I need to drop in on that channel and say thanks!
@@ScannerDanner I kept thinking that the switch was there to tell the pcm that there is sufficient oil pressure before it activates the solenoid, which would make sense. I am pretty sure a lot of people think that way. Thank you for letting us know that it is used as feedback.
Please Paul or somebody else,help me with this question;In a 1998 accord 2.3l ,engine running applying 12 volt to the Vtec solenoid,it is normal to still have,one and a half volt on the vtec oil pressure switch blue black wire?I think is the ground signal to pcm(multimeter positive side to 12 volt battery post,negative side to blue black wire vtec oil pressure switch).because apparently all my system is working normal,but about 50 miles of driving I'm still getting the p1259 code.thanks in advance for your response.
Vtec sol new,vtec oil pressure switch new,engine oil 5w30 fool,wiring tested good.
Please show from what source or terminal all wires you connect. Thanks
Good video
I had Vtec conntroler..on my civic...all good
What is the procedure if engaging the solenoid does not affect the vehicle idle? Difficulty: I have already replaced the entire solenoid assembly.
Great video i learnt so much!!!
Can i request for a similar video in regards to honda's VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor?
OBD code is P0500?
I'm having trouble with my s2000 03 model, i've basically almost done everything in mind to stop it. I try avoid resetting it because i want to properly resolve the problem. Any ideas in mind if you could help?
Thanks
Did you replace the sensor if you did and you drove it an the check engine light didn't go out you might have something wrong with the tone gear inside the transmission that or you bought a cheap s***** aftermarket sensor and didn't go Honda OEM even the wrong oil filter can cause that car to have a s*** ton of problems
if Vtec system malfunction will it cause the RPM to Flush while driving and Stall? And did you say if there oil in the Vtec solenoid connector , should i change the solenoid? this happen on my 04 honda accord .....
Hi, my 2006 Honda CRV has engine warning light with p2646 code. I tested as you show on this video. When I touch the signal wire of the vtec solenoid in the engine off, I can hear clicking sound, but with engine running there is no rpm change and vtec switch is still 0 voltage indicated. What problem would be? Low oil pressure? If yes, what components would be fault?
Pull the solenoid out first and see if the screen on it is full of debris. Next easiest step
@@ScannerDanner I agree. The clicking noise confirms that the solenoid is working, that is, the solenoid is moving the spool valve. But it doesn't confirm that oil is being sent to the VTEC rocker arm pins. Clogged screen will cause problems.
just have to be careful what polarity you try to energize that solenoid with. do it wrong and you can fry the solenoid driver in the pcm
Hi, I have a question about my vtec operation, that maybe you can answer , about my 1998 Honda Accord EX V6.
I havent owned the car very long, but when I hit the throttle to kick in the Vtec, it stalls..
I have to go thru all of these checks but the first thing i noticed is that my voltage is over 15 volts . do you think that that could be too much voltage for the solenoid ?
thanks for any help.
How do I get your books? From Nigeria
i really need to do this to my accord, but seems a bit daunting scared im gonna fuck up the system
So if your voltage at the T-pin switch side is below batt voltage what would that mean?
I have a 98 civic coupe d15b, the vtec on it gose not work then running at normal engine optimization but sometimes in the morning it would turn on at 5 and a half but not hard ????
My Vtec on my 2000 Accord 2.3l is not activating. Solenoid is clicking when I tested it. Their is good ground, checked continuity. Signal wire has power when not connected to solenoid. When the signal wire gets connected to the solenoid and I run the car to energize the solenoid their is no change in rpms? Their is .034mv at idle on the solenoid. Don't know if their is a relay problem or this just goes to the ECM with no other signals. My idle rpm is 700 not 750 which is suppose to be. At park when I rev it up to 5000 rpms, the engine shutters, holds back so that the engine doesn't go pass 5000 rpms? Is this a ECM issue? Vtec code of P1259 on check engine light turns back on after I reset it and drive the car for awhile on the freeway.
So on the VTEC solenoid you are seeing 12v unplugged and .034v plugged in? On the 2-wire solenoid, just to be clear.
Yes their is a 12V voltage on the solenoid wire unplug and when it's plugged in their is 0V? that's ok because the oil pressure signal wire should supply the current through the ECM right, but it's 0V when idling and also when I increase rpm's pass 3000 rpms? Their is good continuity on all wires. I suspect their is very little oil pressure which means my oil pump, because the car has clean oil. Very weak engine when I increase rpm's according to my scanner the load value goes down. Should I flush the engine, clean the oil pump or replace it?
@@ScannerDanner I fixed the VTEC issue! Turned out when I checked my oil pressure on the back underside of the engine the oil pressure was very high! I took it to a shop to get the oil unclogged with engine flush, since I didn't have a machine to recirculate the oil I wasn't able to flush it myself... So the oil pressure is at spec's, but the VTEC wasn't engaging still? I got an opinion from another mechanic who wasn't sure what was causing the car's VTEC issues? But on just hearing the motor he said I first needed to get my valves adjusted, because the engine was so noisy you would think I had a diesel engine? But instead of paying him I did it myself and while adjusting the intake/outtake exhaust I decided to inspect the VTEC assembly too. Turned out their were some bolts that were loose so that was the reason I felt the need to pull out the entire VTEC assembly. I cleaned all the passages and even though I didn't see any noticeable clogs on any of the port passages I still went through them all just to be safe.... I ran the engine and no more noise and no more VTEC problems. I took the car for a spin and ran the scanner and my VTEC was turning on/off when I increased rpm's and the engine went into gear! Paul this brings me to another problem I already had on this reconstructed engine I bought, which was a mistake I should have gotten a used engine from Japan. However, the engine timing on cylinder #1 is at 7 degrees and rpm +/- (700-800)... This is when the engine is warmed. I remind you I've had these problems already for a year at the time the VTEC code turned on a year from now, as well. My fuel is running lean at variable (-7%) on long term fuel trim levels. And now the knock sensor code P0325 turned on, but it's not the sensor or wires for I have already diagnosed them? Are the belts off timing for their is a feel of lag on the motor still, PCM or can this get fix by adjusting the idle speed like some mechanic said, since as you know these distributors are non-adjustable? At the moment I am putting in new brushes on my alternator that are going bad. Another mechanic said it might be correlated with the PCM and knock sensor, because when pressure gets released on the pedal when I am driving the alternator goes to zero, the dashboard lights turns red on the brake light, and passenger doors!
What if you engaged the vtech when the car running and ntn changed, what causes that?
did you do the tests I showed?
My solenoid clicks when I apply power. But when I start the engine and apply power the rpm doesn't change like in the video. whats the next step, is it a bad solenoid?
Okay sweet, you did the first step. No change in RPM is either a mechanical problem with the actuator or a hydraulic issue. Maybe a plunger screen on the inlet of the actuator
I notice theres oil in that connector all the time, my car has lost power and I dont feel vtec engaging anymore. Can oil in there cause vtec to fail?
could u engergise the solenoid with a test light ?
It depends on the solenoid resistance. Yes on some, no on others. If the solenoid normally draws about 300ma, then yes, an incandescent test light will carry enough current flow to energize it. Not completely, but enough to create a magnetic field strong enough to open the solenoid.
Hello, my h22 vtec has a malfunction problem, it is making a ticking noice when it idles and when I drive it in 1st and 2nd gear, any clue what the problem is and how to fix it?
first step check oil level in engine
The fuse in my jumper wire only protects the jumper wire from catching fire if I touch a power and ground at the same time. In no way shape of form does a fuse in a jumper wire protect the computer driver. If you get your polarity mixed up you will still fry the computer even with a fuse in your jumper wire.
But how , if the rate of amprage go over of ,,,let say 5amp,and the fuse is 5A ,so it would blow and cut the circuit,it's my imagination,please correct me if i'm wrong
hello i have honda civic 1999 ex and i want to know when i start my car it feels like my exhaust is backfireing and my solenoid is leaking.
Does this applies to newer VTEC systems?
I did an oil change on my 2002 Honda Accord, my check engine light is still on. I reset the code and when I get about 3500 RPM the check engine light comes back on. I changed the entire Vtech Solenoid and still getting the same code? I don’t know what’s next.. oil pressure sensor? Help
If you energize the vtec solenoid like I did, does the engine get rough?
ScannerDanner I don’t know about rough but my car is sluggish
Nice video, very informative. Should there be continuity between the two terminals of the HARNESS of the pressure switch? Also, what does it mean if you measure 5V between terminal one of the pressure switch harness and ground, while the solenoid is not activated? You measure 0V in your video. Not sure why I am getting 5V.
On the psi switch itself. Yes and no as the switch opens and closes by hydraulic psi. As far as when it read 5 and when it reads 0 on the psi switch, I don't remember. (Thought it was 12) It is the change in voltage on the psi switch, as the solenoid is energized that is important
So if you energize the vtec solenoid, and you see no voltage change on the pressure switch, does this mean that the pressure switch is bad or is the ECM/PCM bad?
I have the same question. I just replaced the entire solenoid / pressure switch assembly with brand new OEM. When I energize the solenoid I do not see a voltage change on the pressure switch. I do not hear the sound of the engine change either. What does this mean?
My problem was fixed by replacing the entire solenoid / pressure switch assembly - it is possible mine was clogged. If you already did that, and you are not getting that voltage change on the pressure switch, it is possible your oil pressure is too low to activate the pressure switch. It is hydraulically activated. Get the kit from harbor freight for $20 if you don't already have one. You should get >10psi at idle, and >45psi at 3000rpms. Wait till the engine is hot to get your final reading. If your oil pressure is low, you may need a new oil pump and that could be the root cause. Also, make sure you have the multimeter hooked up to the black/blue wire.
Thanks Terp Guy. I think you are right on the money. It's got to be my oil pump gone bad. It's a little discouraging I have to take off the timing belt to get at it. I might as well replace that too along with the water pump. Big job. :/
voltage going vtec on my d15b jdm is 2.7 v.. key on start position n idle. is that normal?
to the solenoid or psi sensor? Which wire? Also what year, make, model, and engine? d15b means nothing to me, sorry
Would this be the same way to test this in a 2001 civic 4cyl 1.7L sohc?
What fuse value are you using on the jumper wire
Hi I have a 2008 Honda Civic Coupe The ECU does not send power to the VTEC solenoid valve when Rpm 6500 exceeded what could be the reason why not send the signal or current to the solenoid really hope you can help me.
IF there is a fault code for the solenoid, the computer may not send the signal to it to turn it on. Try this, and in this exact order. 1. Disconnect VTEC sol. 2. Connect an incandescent test light to the VTEC solenoid wire and ground. 3. Clear fault codes 4. Start engine and rev it over 4000 RPM, the test light should light up if the computer and wiring are good.
Remember if the computer senses an open circuit during the above testing, it may not turn the circuit on.
+ScannerDanner hello test and perform as well as you told me, and tried the car from 4000 RPM to 6000 and did not turn on the light, check the wiring and is in good condition (with continuity) from the ECU. you think the computer is damaged or not programmed to send the signal to the solenoid VTEC? THANK YOU
What size fuse is safe for the jumper wire?
+Scott McInnis Or would a test light be capable of doing the same thing?
Can i use a power probe to check the solenoid?
I have a 99 Honda Accord I don't a head job on it and now before I done the head job on didn't have the code for a vtec solenoid but not coming back I put a new one on it and still have the same code every time I drive it ain't clear
Test the circuit like I showed in this video. Does the psi switch change signal voltage when you manually energize the solenoid?
Haha no, it is VTEC Monitor (VTM) as it is the VTEC switch input signal.
Hey SD; i recently repaired my honda 98 vtec and the solenoid valve connector (pcm) side was severed so i found a similar connector and reattched it and plugged it back in the vtec solenoid; now below that which is my vtec oil pressure swicth that is broken off although the wiring is intact(connector) going to it; so heres my question is it safe to run my car with the oil pressure swicth not working ? I can hear the vtec engage as i accelerate and downshifts good aswell but the other day the car shut off coming to a stop on a highway the turn signals didnt activate but yeh
... any input ?
@@brionadderley1643 your symptom of stalling and turn signal issues has nothing to do with the VTEC psi switch not being connected. I am actually surprised the VTEC system kicks in at all with that switch out of the picture. You have another problem my friend. Look into where your turn signal circuit get power, in there you will probably find your stalling issue too. My guess is possibly an ignition switch problem. Smack on the bottom of the column, below the ignition switch and see if it makes the turn signals stop working on engine stalls to confirm.
Is this for a 4 cyl or for a 6cyl ?
This was a 4 cyl
im getting the same code p1259 on a 2001 honda civic ex
I have a 1999 Honda Prelude. the Vtec is not kicking in (Not Working).
Hey I was wondering if anybody could help me out well I have a weird problem I bought this 03 honda civic and I noticed the engine was replaced and the vtec solenoid was completely missing so I picked up a used one screwed it on and connect it as soon as I connected it and reset the ecu the engine light goes away for a while but as soon as I rev to 5000 rpm the engine light comes back on now here is the weird part when I connect the energizer wire the wire that goes to the solenoid the oil light comes on in the car when I disconnect the energizer wire the oil light goes off??? I'm thinking the last person who put the engine in didn't wire it up right or is it suppose to be that way.From my understanding from reading up online the oil pressure detector is suppose to be by the oil filter so why when I connect the energizer wire (the wire that goes to the solenoid to open the oil passage way)the oil light comes on???
+Malik Berry Malik, you can try posting this to my forum, one of the guys over there would be glad to look at a diagram and try to help. Thanks! www.scannerdanner.com
+ScannerDanner I figured it out the wireing was not right the wire that was going to the vtech solenoid valve was actually for the oil pressure sensor near the filter for the first time I got it to rev past 5000 but it only works every now and then I think the pressure switch is bad
I just put a used engine in a 2001 Honda accord v-tec and it started right up but when you give it gas it dies
So do you think the sump oil capacity needs to increased in these circumstances?
This presentation is way too boss.
What can be the cause?
is it me or at 2034 rpm... v-tec did kick in?
Walmart craft section. Be careful with these, you can fry a computer driver if you don't use them properly. Also the jumper wire fuse in NO WAY protects the PCM driver. If you use a jumper wire to energize a solenoid and you chose the wrong polarity, you will fry the computer driver and it will not matter what fuse you have in the jumper wire.
Please be careful with this type of testing!
So why not just always be safe and use an incandescent test light?
So is it safe using an incandescent gets light ????
im in a jam, 01 civic, same code, i put in new solenoid
with pressure switch oem, changed oil, same code comes back 1259, what I noticed is have 6v on signal wire pressure switch engine idling. passed solenoid test
I hav a vtec failure car doesnt go more then 4RPMs
Guess that means its good bad?
My goodness I think I died 😭
VTM= V TECH MALFUNCTION, lol, IDK, just guessing