Recently I've started doing compound lifts before I climb (deadlift/OHP or squat/bench). I find that this gets my CNS fired up and feeling psyched, but because the muscles worked by these are not usually the primary movers in climbing I'm still able to pull hard on the wall. I'm not trying to be a professional climber or chase V8 grades so I prefer my training to be more rounded to avoid imbalances (e.g. massive back+bis but no chest or legs).
@Lattice Training : I got a question for when ever you are doing another Q&A Video: How would you structure a climbing trip to a new climbing crag in terms of restdays and amount of climbing per day? Also, really like the content and the app! Thanks a lot, keep up the good work!
Hi, thanks for the video! I got a question: What does the 60% = 120s under Endurance -> Start/ Test stands for? For PullUp and Finger strength it's clear to me.
I do the full spectrum of weight training to help me climb. When it comes to specifically targeted exercise I get that from the wall itself. I'm only on 6 a to be fair. Also I just semi stand on a box with the pull-ups to give me high repetition pull-ups.
There is the saying that high rep exercise is mostly for endurance and Not for strengh. Strength is when you do exercise to your max ability and still get only 2-6. Ie find push-up, pull-up variation that is very hard but possible and work it until you can do ~6. Then find next one, rinse and repeat.
Do you know if weight lifting exercises such as the power clean is a good idea to improve dynos? I know that being able to squat x2 body weight increases jump height but climbers don't want to build muscle hypertrophy in the legs. Therefore, the power clean would be a good alternative. What are your thoughts?
Yes, agreed that Olympic lifts and their derivatives can be a great option for developing power in climbers. I think the main reason we don't see more of it is because it takes a lot of time investment to get the form good enough to lift at max intensity i.e. not be limited by form failure. It is also not that common for S&C coaches in the climbing community to be trained in teaching these lifts, as far as I am aware. I'm sure this will change.
@@LatticeTraining That's correct as it takes some time to learn the power clean exercise when instead climbers can use box jumps or lateral jumps in order to improve jumping performance. Another question I have is, performing a dyno on a wall sometimes requires jumping from forefoot contact whereas doing jump training on the floor is pushing from whole foot contact. Do you think there is a carry over in terms of power because the contact point during push off is different?
i don‘t understand the example plan. Is the idea that you only work out once per week for any given area(pull ups, fingers etc.) and what dies 30/wk mean?does wk stand for workout or week?
In addition or as substitution, its up to you if you are writing the plan. The point of this example plan is to keep it really simple to illustrate the foundation principles. You should then be able to take these principles and apply them outwards to other forms of training e.g. antagonist work.
Was talking about this with a top notch climber the other day. He's 40ish now and said he had stopped being pre-occupied with climbing specific strength and trains for all over strength and good health. So more bench press, squats and deadlifts when not climbing and not so much pullups and finger board stuff. Everybody benefits from squats and deadlifts but they also give you core strength and leg strength you utilise for climbing.
This is an rough estimation or guide for 'time doing the exercises'. If we are trying to increase volume of easy climbing, a really simple/easy way is to increase the length of the session. Just like a runner might go for longer and longer runs. Of course you can measure distance, ground covered etc. its just about measuring it in some form to help you plan progressive overload.
Although all the advice are technically true, they are so general to be practically useless. Then, the most difficult and important part, which is identifying weaknesses is given barely a mention. You're in luck if this is your pull strength, but considering pull up being default climbing exercise, that's probably not it, or you're already know well what you're missing. It doesn't require a fitness genius to figure out that you need to train endurance for 20m routes, while it won't be helpful for 4-move boulder. I also don't know what's the point of the proposed training plan besides showing, that you need to be systematic, increase load and track progress. I understand that single youtube video won't substitute coach, but at least it could give some heuristics in finding optimal set of exercises and show that said exercises even exist.
Thanks for you comment. Sorry this was a bit to basic for you, it's always hard to find a balance with such a big audience 😅. The video is intended to get some of the fundamentals across and is part of a series with 4 more videos that might help provide more context for you. Including the first episode which goes through identifying weaknesses, which I think is your main criticism. The plan that features across the series might be overly simplistic but in our experience the novice trainer or new climber can quickly get lost in the details and the success of a training plan will predominantly be determined but the big picture decisions and fundamental of training. If that's all we get across over the whole series it was a success in our opinion. For more exercise we also have a "Fundamentals" series for both S&C exercises and technique exercise that should act very well to support the training plan writing series.
This is incredibly helpful for those of us that care a lot but about our training but cant afford a coach year round. Thank you so much!
100k subscribers! Congratulations! Thanks for all the awesome content
Thanks! We filmed a 100k special the other day and we'll aim to release this in Oct. Very psyched and humbled by our community!
I am starting training with Lattice in just about a week. I can't wait I am so excited!
Recently I've started doing compound lifts before I climb (deadlift/OHP or squat/bench). I find that this gets my CNS fired up and feeling psyched, but because the muscles worked by these are not usually the primary movers in climbing I'm still able to pull hard on the wall. I'm not trying to be a professional climber or chase V8 grades so I prefer my training to be more rounded to avoid imbalances (e.g. massive back+bis but no chest or legs).
@Lattice Training : I got a question for when ever you are doing another Q&A Video: How would you structure a climbing trip to a new climbing crag in terms of restdays and amount of climbing per day?
Also, really like the content and the app! Thanks a lot, keep up the good work!
Psyched to see how many times you can work that b roll of 'Oli g the painted lady' in to future vids.
congrats on 100k dudes
Hi, thanks for the video! I got a question: What does the 60% = 120s under Endurance -> Start/ Test stands for? For PullUp and Finger strength it's clear to me.
It's for forearm endurance. Doing 7:3 repeaters until failure at 60% of max load.
I do the full spectrum of weight training to help me climb. When it comes to specifically targeted exercise I get that from the wall itself. I'm only on 6 a to be fair. Also I just semi stand on a box with the pull-ups to give me high repetition pull-ups.
There is the saying that high rep exercise is mostly for endurance and Not for strengh. Strength is when you do exercise to your max ability and still get only 2-6. Ie find push-up, pull-up variation that is very hard but possible and work it until you can do ~6. Then find next one, rinse and repeat.
Where I can check this play list? I want to get motivated on my sessions🧗♂️👌💪😁
Do you know if weight lifting exercises such as the power clean is a good idea to improve dynos? I know that being able to squat x2 body weight increases jump height but climbers don't want to build muscle hypertrophy in the legs. Therefore, the power clean would be a good alternative. What are your thoughts?
Yes, agreed that Olympic lifts and their derivatives can be a great option for developing power in climbers. I think the main reason we don't see more of it is because it takes a lot of time investment to get the form good enough to lift at max intensity i.e. not be limited by form failure. It is also not that common for S&C coaches in the climbing community to be trained in teaching these lifts, as far as I am aware. I'm sure this will change.
@@LatticeTraining That's correct as it takes some time to learn the power clean exercise when instead climbers can use box jumps or lateral jumps in order to improve jumping performance. Another question I have is, performing a dyno on a wall sometimes requires jumping from forefoot contact whereas doing jump training on the floor is pushing from whole foot contact. Do you think there is a carry over in terms of power because the contact point during push off is different?
Very comprehensive explanation guys. Great video
i don‘t understand the example plan. Is the idea that you only work out once per week for any given area(pull ups, fingers etc.) and what dies 30/wk mean?does wk stand for workout or week?
where does antagonist training fit in? Like chest, triceps, chin ups?
In addition or as substitution, its up to you if you are writing the plan. The point of this example plan is to keep it really simple to illustrate the foundation principles. You should then be able to take these principles and apply them outwards to other forms of training e.g. antagonist work.
Not sure if chin ups are antagonist. Still use biceps, brach, lats just like pull ups
Was talking about this with a top notch climber the other day. He's 40ish now and said he had stopped being pre-occupied with climbing specific strength and trains for all over strength and good health. So more bench press, squats and deadlifts when not climbing and not so much pullups and finger board stuff. Everybody benefits from squats and deadlifts but they also give you core strength and leg strength you utilise for climbing.
Question! On the example spreadsheet near the end what does the row across from "40mins/week" cover? The ascending 40 50 60 etc.
This is an rough estimation or guide for 'time doing the exercises'. If we are trying to increase volume of easy climbing, a really simple/easy way is to increase the length of the session. Just like a runner might go for longer and longer runs. Of course you can measure distance, ground covered etc. its just about measuring it in some form to help you plan progressive overload.
You’re the best ever🎉❤
big ups from Brasil
go bolsonaro!
Although all the advice are technically true, they are so general to be practically useless. Then, the most difficult and important part, which is identifying weaknesses is given barely a mention. You're in luck if this is your pull strength, but considering pull up being default climbing exercise, that's probably not it, or you're already know well what you're missing.
It doesn't require a fitness genius to figure out that you need to train endurance for 20m routes, while it won't be helpful for 4-move boulder. I also don't know what's the point of the proposed training plan besides showing, that you need to be systematic, increase load and track progress.
I understand that single youtube video won't substitute coach, but at least it could give some heuristics in finding optimal set of exercises and show that said exercises even exist.
Thanks for you comment. Sorry this was a bit to basic for you, it's always hard to find a balance with such a big audience 😅. The video is intended to get some of the fundamentals across and is part of a series with 4 more videos that might help provide more context for you. Including the first episode which goes through identifying weaknesses, which I think is your main criticism. The plan that features across the series might be overly simplistic but in our experience the novice trainer or new climber can quickly get lost in the details and the success of a training plan will predominantly be determined but the big picture decisions and fundamental of training. If that's all we get across over the whole series it was a success in our opinion. For more exercise we also have a "Fundamentals" series for both S&C exercises and technique exercise that should act very well to support the training plan writing series.
wow, never been first :)
Got beat by an only fans boy as well :/
why?? didn get the hate, or joke whatever
@@alemakhoul4899 it was a joke because an only fans bot actually got the first comment
You’re painting a landscape, why do you need a human model for? 😂is this a clue of how you plan climbing training?
Exactly, its a deeply complex analogy. Climbing is a portrait, training is a landscape, or something like that....
Incredibly annoying. Video is way too long. Just want to have the tips, not all the side info.
Incredibly annoying... ☹️ Sorry you didn't like it.
@@LatticeTrainingI thought this was an excellent video.