Thank you! We were curious about how much tubing had to be exposed to use the flaring tool to flare it. Now we know it's 1/8th of an inch. Awesome instructive video 📹 👏 👏👏 Thank you for a job well done 🙋♂️🙋♀️
Thank you, Good Sir. I just got a steam boiler water injector and it needed flared connections. After seeing your video I understand the process of making flared fittings and have ordered a similar tool from McMaster-Carr.
This is a great example if you are creating a flare for a fitting to blow out a sprinkler system. If you are creating a flare for an air filled system this is great. If, however you are creating a flare for a liquid filled system, you need to de-burr the copper tubing, using a reamer tool, before creating the flare, otherwise you will end up with a leak.
Dima Prok me too that way I'm watching this video because I'm not even know the name of that tool😂👍🏾 now I know I have something expensive and important on my toolbox😌
Just an FYI, if you’re gonna push air through the lines of the sprinkler system, you ought to be connecting to the #4 test cock (here you are connecting to the #2 test cock), the #4 TC is downstream of the relief valve and #2 check valve , and a more direct route into the pipe line. By blowing through the #2 TC, you are pushing compressed air through check valves 1 & 2 and the relief valve, potentially damaging these components. If you connect to the #4 TC, then your air is being pumped in on the downstream side of check valve #2 and as long as the check valve is working properly, it will hold the back pressure of air and prevent it from going backwards into the relief valve and towards the first check valve- the air will be directed straight into the downstream piping from the backflow preventer.
I'm trying to get a flare on 1/8" copper tubing, the smallest size the flare kit will hold. For the life of me, I can't get a good flare. It either rips apart on one side, and/or the flare tool just doesn't center well in the tiny ID of the tubing. This is for a fuel primer line but it will not hold any pressure. Still, reaming or deburring the ID is out of the question. The best I could do is maybe run a tiny drill bit in there. I've tried about 8 flares already. So frustrating. Any tips on flaring 1/8" tube is much appreciated.
You may have needed to anneal the copper first to get it to flare. As copper is worked it becomes hard and more brittle make it more difficult to work. ruclips.net/video/3jSz11lz8MA/видео.html
@@Iscaper i think here your using a 1/4 inch fitting,so what hose size are you using,like is it the same as the nut,like a 1/4 inch would use a 1/4 inch copper hose,same for 3/8 fitting would use a 3/8 copper hose,am i right on this,thanks so munch
You did not instructed the distance of the pipe protruding through the pipe clamp or show the tool that gives you the correct hight of the pipe beyond the clamp! I have got to give you a big thumbs down for this video!
Thank you! We were curious about how much tubing had to be exposed to use the flaring tool to flare it. Now we know it's 1/8th of an inch.
Awesome instructive video 📹 👏 👏👏
Thank you for a job well done 🙋♂️🙋♀️
Thanks Robyn for watching.
@@Iscaper 5 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Video!
You're very welcome 😊🙋♀️
Thank you, Good Sir. I just got a steam boiler water injector and it needed flared connections. After seeing your video I understand the process of making flared fittings and have ordered a similar tool from McMaster-Carr.
Excellent video sir. Thanks for the time you took.
+Andy Fulenchek
Thanks Andy.
This is a great example if you are creating a flare for a fitting to blow out a sprinkler system. If you are creating a flare for an air filled system this is great. If, however you are creating a flare for a liquid filled system, you need to de-burr the copper tubing, using a reamer tool, before creating the flare, otherwise you will end up with a leak.
Good information, thanks for posting.
I have one of those multi size hole clamp that I never knew what it's for :) now I know. Got it from the dad.
Same her and i have no clue how i came over this video
Dima Prok me too that way I'm watching this video because I'm not even know the name of that tool😂👍🏾 now I know I have something expensive and important on my toolbox😌
Excellent How to Video! Thank you for taking the time!
Great tutorial. Thank you for your time, sir!
For those reading through the comments,,,,,the creator of this video forgot to mention an extremely important detail. IT MUST BE THIN WALL TUBING.
Great Instructional Video- Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching.
Just an FYI, if you’re gonna push air through the lines of the sprinkler system, you ought to be connecting to the #4 test cock (here you are connecting to the #2 test cock), the #4 TC is downstream of the relief valve and #2 check valve , and a more direct route into the pipe line. By blowing through the #2 TC, you are pushing compressed air through check valves 1 & 2 and the relief valve, potentially damaging these components. If you connect to the #4 TC, then your air is being pumped in on the downstream side of check valve #2 and as long as the check valve is working properly, it will hold the back pressure of air and prevent it from going backwards into the relief valve and towards the first check valve- the air will be directed straight into the downstream piping from the backflow preventer.
Thanks for this!
TIP! You can often rent this tool from auto zone or O'Reilly as they are used for brake lines
$22 to buy on Amazon
Thank you, I found that very useful.
Nice video, very helpful for an espresso machine modder!
most helpful thanks so much for posting.
Thanks Brian.
No deberring?
Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. It is indeed informative.
thank you for the tips that really help me.!
+leandro leiva
Thanks for watching.
I noticed that you did not debur the tubing after you cut it for the second flare.
Thanks for commenting.
The flaring tool has a longer leg on the wingnut side. That allows for holding it in a vise.
Great tutorial.
At 3:26 - I always thought the next step was to forget to slide the next flare nut over the tubing. At least, that's how I always do it.
😂
What would i know without youtube
Thanks for the video
now i know how to use it :D, thanks for your video.
Thanks for the feedback.
why did you edit out the actual creation of the flare both times?
thanks for the vid!
Great project
Thanku
if you remove the brass fitting on backflow preventer, a standard 1/4 male compressor fitting should fit right in to the backflow
that's stupid why would anyone wanna save time?
How would you create a sharp end to this tube?
I'm trying to get a flare on 1/8" copper tubing, the smallest size the flare kit will hold. For the life of me, I can't get a good flare. It either rips apart on one side, and/or the flare tool just doesn't center well in the tiny ID of the tubing. This is for a fuel primer line but it will not hold any pressure. Still, reaming or deburring the ID is out of the question. The best I could do is maybe run a tiny drill bit in there. I've tried about 8 flares already. So frustrating. Any tips on flaring 1/8" tube is much appreciated.
I've seen that problem solved by using a 3/16 drill bit and removing a very small amount of the opening to get a better start and go slow and straight
You may have needed to anneal the copper first to get it to flare. As copper is worked it becomes hard and more brittle make it more difficult to work. ruclips.net/video/3jSz11lz8MA/видео.html
Small amount of lube will help 👍
Use a small torch to heat the copper before flaring it. It'll let the copper expand without breaking.
nice vid bro. very helpful. cheers
where did you get the tubing and the fittings?
Plumbing store here in SLC.
@@Iscaper i think here your using a 1/4 inch fitting,so what hose size are you using,like is it the same as the nut,like a 1/4 inch would use a 1/4 inch copper hose,same for 3/8 fitting would use a 3/8 copper hose,am i right on this,thanks so munch
home depot has refrigerant soft copper line is that the same line?
@@TheMatrixgod You want 1/4" OD copper for 1/4" copper fittings.
Good job,but the volume is not so good..
Nice
good 1 !
It will flare any type of line copper or stainless or steal you call it a copper flare toolkits a metal tubing flare tool
stop calling the clamping bar the yoke, the yoke is the piece with the cone, other than all the misnaming good video
Slide the fitting F-I-R-S-T !!!! Not last !!!
Uslist...
Very low audio turn up the mic on record
한국인 안농
You did not instructed the distance of the pipe protruding through the pipe clamp or show the tool that gives you the correct hight of the pipe beyond the clamp!
I have got to give you a big thumbs down for this video!
He said to leave about 1/8 inch showing outside of the tube clamp.
Speak up! My volume is maxed and u are still mumbeling. Bubba, don't overlook teflon tape on the non flared connections.
Thanks for the video