if doing any tank restoration and your nervous about using the acid, i can definitely say that white vinegar works really really well, i left in a 84 virago xv1000 tank with medium to heavy rust for 2 weeks. then washed out and used red kote (tank sealer from oreilys) now the tanks good for another 20 years at least.
Dont mess around with muriatic acid. It's terrible and eats the metal. White vinegar is like $1 a gallon, super cheap, use it, no damage to your skin or surrounding area and you can pour out anywhere. It's all you need. This kid is doing overkill.
I used muriatic acid on my 78 gs750 tank. Shit works amazing, i used a pressure washer on the inside to get all the acid out, then sprayed WD-40 to prevent any flash rusting. Still rust free
Ardent Fan: Your are correct in saying that drain cleaner is a strong base. However, not always. Sulphuric ACID drain cleaner, although not as readily available because it's more dangerous to handle, IS NOT a base.
DUDE! MOE! I just realized I have a kerosene heater that I got for free because the tank was full of rust. I was going to use that Rust-Soak product from Wd-40. Not now though. Instead, I’ll use your method. Way more cost effective! From one 801 Utahn to another Thank you!
It is not difficult to find HCL at all. You can find it anywhere they have pool supplies. It comes in 31-33% strength and it's the strongest you can buy. Paint departments at hardware stores also have the same thing, but at the big box stores it is often sold in 15% strength.
Col . When i was doing fire brick , we used to go into Hydrochloric , and Sulfuric acid tanks and re brick the tanks , some we suited up went in while acid was still in there and patch the tanks .
Great vid man thanks !! I have an old tank just like that. I'm def gonna give this a shot. I'll use a piece of chain as an agitator instead of nuts and bolts.
That works well. A cement mixer set almost horizontal will hold a five gallon Jerry can if you wedge in some old pillows or foam. Put in a few pounds of gravel and some water and turn on the mixer. You'll want to do this out back because the noise will be terrible.
I don't know what you plan on using the rusted out one for, but I have seen people convert them into mini tool chest. I'm looking forward to your next episode.
+wyattoneable The plastic ones allow gasoline to evaporate though the sides and moisture to introduce itself inside, so I'm going back to steel cans for long term storage.
I started out (before I properly educated myself that is) trying to clean out my motorcycle gas tank with CLR. Left it three days, emptied, inspected. Poor results. Then tried vinegar. Poor next to no results. Then went the electrolysis route: mixed results. Only "pulled" about 50% of the rust out. Tried for longer time period, still unsatisfactory. Then I tried this... poured a 50:50 acid water ration and immediately saw it chew off some rust I couldn't even scrape off with my finger at the inlet of the tank. Gonna leave it for 24 hours. Excited...
Check out Jeep forums for awesome ideas on what to do with the rusted bottom gerry can. Tool boxes, tow strap storage, even beer coolers. Awesome cleaning tops my friend! Zip~
Careful with Muriatic or Hydrochloric acids, instead go to Lowe's or HD and buy Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep for about $18 a gallon (April 2021). Cleans, converts and doesn't keep eating the steel like the aggressive acids. Clean, let the acid sit overnight, drain and use baking soda and water to flush (or just alcohol) and dry with your leaf blower. Then coat the inside with POR-15.
I would highly recommend not sniffing the tanks after muriatic acid has been present. A big whiff and your sinus can be burnt from the fumes. I know a kid that found a cup of it on a job site and it took months for him to recover.
'Varnado' toilet bowl cleaner, and 'The Works' toilet bowl clean are each 20% HCl (Just in case you can't find anything else, , , ,but check the label, they might have different formulas)
Putting the acid and water on steel will generate hydrogen gas. It's not that big a deal but then you tightly secured the cap and pressure will build. HCl cleans fast, eats sheet metal fast and rusts fast after it's rinsed off. IMO you can never get it all off and the metal will always rust at an accelerated pace after an acid wash. The fumes will make all your steel and iron in your garage rust too.
last year I was able to get a good price on two gallons of evaporust to use on a Yamaha Vino tank. It's pricey but the tank is only 1.2 gal and it did work. I just priced Muriatic acid. Definitely a lot cheaper. You can dilute it and it is infinitely more reusable it seems. Oh well.
I find that vinegar will eventually remove all rust and will not harm the metal. For instance I had a rusty motorcycle drive chain that was almost neww no mileage done but it was seized tight and covered with rust after some 40 years in the rain, after a month in the vinegar it came out clean, no rust on it, all rust melted away in the bottom of the bucket.
Before you mention gas tank liners, I was actually going to suggest that it. Idea for that wrecked gas can, make it a safe if you think about it, if someone break into your shop, most likely they wouldn't grab a rusty old gas can so you could hide stuff underneath it.
what you can do also at the end of a acid wash is flush the tank with a hose yes water pref hot then when dun to get rid of the water past use rubbing alc of if you are in in a hury let air dry.
Working from the point, that you've decided they are worth all the effort(and that it's a moot point,that they would be easier to replace.):Perhaps you should change your approach. If this were my project(and it's not. so yes it's indeed your opinion that matters here not mine. I will apologize right from the get go.) I would turn this in to a welding project. First, just cut all the bottoms out to start with. Carefully avoiding the rolled edge seams(where the bottom meets the sides.) . Just cut and knock out, the centers. Then just sand blast them clean(inside and out.). Then, just mig weld an 11 gauge steel bottom on(placing your weld on/around the bottom.) Just search out any pin holes, and weld over. A much easier approach. The important thing(to state the obvious.) is that they are watertight. Though you should still be able, to get a cosmetically acceptable seam on bottom.
+Schralenberger You still have to rid the inside of gas vapors that have buried themselves into the steel before you weld/cut. An acid wash does just this. Welding up a few pin holes or a small patch is much more considerable than an entire bottom. I would guesstimate these at around 18gauge and you know what a pain they can be to weld without just doing stitch spot welds.
don trump 100% vinegar works but the 50/50 mix is equally effective and water is free. If you try it and think it needs more, just dump more in. I use it at 50/50 and its great.
Yes, you have to rinse it really well with water, then dry it before it can rust, then spray primer on it. If you are coating the inside of the tank, I read on the back of the "chassis saver" can that it is oil, solvent, and fuel resistant. I haven't done it yet but I will. "Chassis saver" is the same as POR15 but about half the price. It's on Amazon.
MGTOW KNIGHT are you sure those 2 products are compatible with gasoline? ive been researching them and they look like thick paint that is applied to exterior surfaces only.
Hey man your video is awesome. I have 6 of the metal gas tank exactly like yours and with your introductions I was be able to remove all the rust from inside and for that a big THANKS. I notice that you have couple plates in your garage if you need more I can give you like 10 more.
sixtyfiveford Do you think is ok to reused the vinager? Or in each tank I neet to add new one. About the plates I mean it if you want it I can send it to you or if you live in Utah we can meet some where.
I've reused the acid but it seams to get significantly weaker. I don't really formally collect license plates. The ones on the door are ones that I've just happened to run across over the years. I've thought about doing a collection of all the states or something, but don't have the wall space to display something that massive. Thanks a million for the offer! -Moe
Great video...Thanks... I need to clean my Model A gas tank. Replacing it is a no as the car has been freshly painted and I do not want to remove the whole cowl. gakkk. I am guessing this would do the trick. hard part would be the sloshing around but I think the rust is mostly on the lower part so perhaps just putting a couple gallons in. anything I should be aware of other than the acid being acid and being sure to neutralize after?
Just watch it closely as this method is pretty fast. If you leave it too long it will start to eat good metal. Be prepared to dilute it and or neutralize it. Also, be prepared for your petcock to get clogged multiple times with chunks of rust.
Ok so i did it. Worked amazing. One hint of caution. Watch how fast you add the neutralizer. Mine was like a mini volcano lol. Otherwise it looks great.
+Marcus Kloepping I have torn them apart before. The one I was trying to do I couldn't find a rebuild kit for. Years, ago they used to be $100+ plus but I just checked Amazon and some are only $20-30 for a complete new pump. The weakest link in a cheap pump is going to be the electric motor. So If your pump has little use and not rusted I would rebuild it if it was cheaper than a new one.
Put in some nuts and bolts and beach sand and then put it in a paint shaker for 5 min. or so. That should shine her up. Salt water sand is the best....... got any close @ hand? LOL
What do you think of using EvapoRust on a rusty gas can? EvapoRust is safe to your skin and eyes and also removes the rust safely. Also, it can be reused many, many times over.
A couple of questions, what liner do you prefer to put in and could weld a new bottom in the one that's shot? Replacing those cans is expensive and the stuff has to be DOT certified. Not to mention the new ones are of flimsier material.
+57WillysCJ Older metal cans are grandfathered in and exempt from DOT requirements as far as I know. I May weld a new bottom into the green one but it will be thicker and better than new.
Great demo- thanks. I have a CT110 motorcycle that needs the tank cleaned. It is not real bad but I want it to be dependable and stop the rust. Do I need to use a tank liner like POR 15 if there are not yet holes or deep pits? Will the rust stay pretty much stopped if I keep using fuel with no alchohol in it? -- A friend of mine turned a gas can like that into hitch hiking "luggage" by putting a bottom on with snaps. Standing along the road with a gas can is a good way to catch a ride.
+Kirk Johnson Just flush it and you're done. I wouldn't coat it unless you had a hole. Keeping the vent closed on the Hondas and ethanol free fuel will prevent rust for sure.
Will this acid affect the welding of the tank? How much is the soaking time? How much amount of baking soda and water have you added to neutralize the acid?
Acid affect welding: No. Soaking time: depends on acid concentration and rust severity. Baking soda: You can't use too much; go until you so no more bubbles/reaction.
what brand of tank sealants would you recommend? my tank is sound and has no leaks, but after a year of my bike standing still, its rusted inside heavily.
I use a teaspoon of oil mixed with about the same amount of gas to coat the inside. LIght surface rust won't hurt anything. You can use a commercial tank sealers as well.
I'd like to see you try your hand at rust removal through electrolysis with your battery charger, a dissimilar metal and an electrolyte. In this instance. I'd start with a long rod and rubber stopper, then switch to a tub and some plates to do the outsides. If it goes well you'll just have to leave it overnight to attract away all the rust, leaving bare metal behind. Then close up any holes and paint. Disposing of the rusty bucket of electrified water is another story.
Great explanation! Did you use any coatings after you cleaned them? I noticed also you had 3 different shirts covering the big 3 automakers.......pretty neat!
Ah man, wish I would have seen this video a couple years ago. I did the apple cider vinegar with nuts and bolts and it did not work well, left it for 48hrs. This would have saved me a lot of time. Thanks for the video, now I know!
I pulled my gas tank off of my sidekick that sat. It had fresh gas which I emptied out. Should I flush with water and let dry first before I do the muriatic acid and water method?
Thanks for posting! The acid really cleaned the rust up, but it also ate up the metal. As you say, if you were painting, the surface would have great "tooth". I'm in the process of salvaging some rust-damaged things, and I've turned to oxalic acid. It is great because it only eats rust, doesn't eat the metal -- works very much like phosphoric acid does: only eats rust, and leaves a coating that won't flake off the surface and that doesn't have to be removed. Also even lower cost than the very affordable phosphoric acid. Not as hazardous as muriatic acid though it should be used like muriatic acid -- in an open area or with positive ventilation.
+sixtyfiveford I hadn't either. I was going to use the potato method but my trusty Ace guy got me to try phosphoric acid, which does work great but is a bit pricey. Did a search for bulk phosphoric acid and stumbled into some forums for hot rods, with tons of info on restoring vintage cars. Learned about oxalic acid and its benefits, such as not eroding the metal; option to leave parts in the solution for very long periods if that was convenient, etc., but the clincher that compelled me to try it was a thread about leaving a frozen hinge in the solution for some time and taking the hinge out and it moved freely. Found a very, very good price at an eBay vendor, Florida Labs: www.ebay.com/usr/floridalabs?rt=nc I recommend you give it a try.
My major concern is when using vinegar or anything like that in gasoline and neutralize in with baking soda do you have residue that you have to concern yourself with that might be harmful twin engine
I tried it and was afraid to leave too long and of course after only 15 minutes it didn't work. I'm going to do again and I know it will. A lot of people scream about how the rust will reappear in 30-45 minutes. I was considering rinsing the tank with diesel fuel because if the oil content. Did you treat the metal at all after? It's a gas tank of a 63 plym Sport Fury
Hi, I need your advise. I have a 1943 U.S. Army jerrycan, the inside is fine, it's covered with a white porcelain like stuff. The outside though is not great, it's not rusted but the paint is really dull and worn. I put half a gallon of kerosene in that can about 35 years ago and it's still there. Short of respraying the can, what can I do to spruce it up a bit?
+RobertoDonatti You can also do what the "American Pickers" do with old metal, wipe it down with Liquid Gold. I couldn't find it local so I had to order it online directly from them. It brought back memories when I used it the first time. My mom used it all the time back in the 60's. Good luck!
Clean it with acid/water first just like the video. Throw some nuts and bolts in it strap it to the rear wheel of your truck. Jack the wheel off the ground. Idle in drive for 20 min. All will be shine (I use my small tractor)
So it'll be my first time using this method. I Need to clean a rusty 5 gallon generator gas tank. What ratio would suggest? maybe 2 gallons acid, 2 gallons water, water in first, slosh it around for a bit with some marbles or rocks or bbs? Rinse it out and then a quart of diesel sloshed around to coat the tank? Does this sound about right? Then neutralize with baking soda and water? Anything I'm missing
Fantastic solution and presentation! I am going to use this to clean an old van gas tank. Will take two of us to slosh it around! Thank you for the formula!
Surface rust won't affect anything, but flaky/scale rust that comes off will. You can swish a little diesel fuel( diesel is just thin oil), some 2 stroke gas, or really any oil mixed with some gas around. Coating the rank with red coat is also a great idea to prevent any future rust.
Use it all the time. Let me pick your brain a min. 2000 Tacoma. The year of the bad frames. I have one on pa that came from California. So it's great shape. Just little speckle if rust hear and there. Last year a soaked every nook and cranny inside and out with phospheric. Then used boiled linseed oil for a preventative , after reading farmers used it for years as a preventative. Last week was checking it out. It's not holding like I want. I need to redo exstensive cleaning and want another oil type stuff to use. Yea fluid film. Mabey. But Mabey there is an industrial type stuff I don't know about ????
+Jason Curry I use 30w chainsaw bar and chain oil as it has built in tacking agents to make it cling. The youtuber mustie1 (his name is Darren) did a concoction of toilet bowl wax to spray down his vehicles. You have to heat it up to a liquid and spray it on (kind of a pain). But it looks great.
Great lesson. When you neutralized the can though, you talked about water and vinegar and the jug didn't have any markings on it. Was that water or vinegar that you poured in after dumping in the baking soda ? Thanks, and keep those great videos coming.
+Toadydoh No, I was just remarking that you will get an identical reaction of adding baking soda to vinegar as baking soda to muriatic acid. Most people have added baking soda to vinegar so it was just an example. The jug was just water.
After cleaning I like to electroplate the inside of my gas tanks using junk D batteries. Battery acid recovered from junk batteries works well for electroplating.
A word of warning. Dilute your acid by adding the acid to water. Best to do it in a separate container. I've witnessed people that did it by adding the water to the acid and it had a violent reaction and got all over them.
Rust comes back quickly, especially with ethanol. Did you do any protective coating on those or any? How effective are they? In '65, my dad had a '65 Galaxie 500; my wife had a '65 Galaxie 500 conv.
Electrolysis doesn't work well on oily parts. Gasoline is an oil so if there's any remnants of gasoline it'll probably deter electrolysis from happening.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
moe, you are by far the best source of info for anyone willing to learn. I wish i had teachers like you back in the day.
+grdnsetr Hey Thanks. I'm just playing around in the garage and enjoy the great people of youtube and their company.
if doing any tank restoration and your nervous about using the acid, i can definitely say that white vinegar works really really well, i left in a 84 virago xv1000 tank with medium to heavy rust for 2 weeks. then washed out and used red kote (tank sealer from oreilys) now the tanks good for another 20 years at least.
kandiepunk did you wash it out with just water?
Dont mess around with muriatic acid. It's terrible and eats the metal. White vinegar is like $1 a gallon, super cheap, use it, no damage to your skin or surrounding area and you can pour out anywhere. It's all you need. This kid is doing overkill.
I used muriatic acid on my 78 gs750 tank. Shit works amazing, i used a pressure washer on the inside to get all the acid out, then sprayed WD-40 to prevent any flash rusting. Still rust free
Awesome.
Ardent Fan
Yes.
Ardent Fan Drain cleaner is a strong base, the opposite of an acid, so I doubt it would work the same.
Ardent Fan: Your are correct in saying that drain cleaner is a strong base. However, not always. Sulphuric ACID drain cleaner, although not as readily available because it's more dangerous to handle, IS NOT a base.
I just did my motorcycle gas tank and it flashed rust
Wasn't really looking for gas cans but gas tanks , no big deal , But you brought back memories with that early 70s Dodge ( logo) t shirt . thanks .
DUDE! MOE! I just realized I have a kerosene heater that I got for free because the tank was full of rust. I was going to use that Rust-Soak product from Wd-40. Not now though. Instead, I’ll use your method. Way more cost effective!
From one 801 Utahn to another Thank you!
I have two to clean out. Most helpful video on how to do this so far. Thanks for taking the time to share.
+ChauffeurPrepper Thanks for watching.
bare steel sounds like a survival specialist. Another great video
+ian pym Hey thanks.
+sixtyfiveford could you put a link to the video you mentioned? repairing gas tanks without welding)
don trump
ruclips.net/video/3Iv5sWZ0nYI/видео.html
Everyone see his Ford love, and he says wear a shirt you dont mind it getting holes in, ha, it says DODGE....
did that to a couple a bike tanks, worked out great,
+Mustie1 I need a vat big enough for an entire vehicle...
+sixtyfiveford you and me both,
It is not difficult to find HCL at all. You can find it anywhere they have pool supplies. It comes in 31-33% strength and it's the strongest you can buy. Paint departments at hardware stores also have the same thing, but at the big box stores it is often sold in 15% strength.
Or you can just buy some muriatic acid, which is hydrochloric acid lol
Col . When i was doing fire brick , we used to go into Hydrochloric , and Sulfuric acid tanks and re brick the tanks , some we suited up went in while acid was still in there and patch the tanks .
+wtbm123 Sounds dangerous....
Great vid man thanks !! I have an old tank just like that. I'm def gonna give this a shot. I'll use a piece of chain as an agitator instead of nuts and bolts.
That rusted out gas can would make an awesome mailbox!
Thats a great idea
+helidodge That is a great idea.
.
The HOA is gonna love that idea. :)
My nephew (an engineer) fills them with aquarium gravel and shakes off the rust.
That works well. A cement mixer set almost horizontal will hold a five gallon Jerry can if you wedge in some old pillows or foam. Put in a few pounds of gravel and some water and turn on the mixer. You'll want to do this out back because the noise will be terrible.
I don't know what you plan on using the rusted out one for, but I have seen people convert them into mini tool chest. I'm looking forward to your next episode.
Do you live near Ft Worth? I know a Shawn Patton who does.....
No I live in Buffalo NY.
+Shawn Patton Thanks
When the acid has eaten all the rust, it starts on the clean metal. Limit the soaking time.
With the cost of steel gas cans these days it's worth a little work to keep those going. Nice one!
+wyattoneable The plastic ones allow gasoline to evaporate though the sides and moisture to introduce itself inside, so I'm going back to steel cans for long term storage.
I started out (before I properly educated myself that is) trying to clean out my motorcycle gas tank with CLR. Left it three days, emptied, inspected. Poor results. Then tried vinegar. Poor next to no results. Then went the electrolysis route: mixed results. Only "pulled" about 50% of the rust out. Tried for longer time period, still unsatisfactory. Then I tried this... poured a 50:50 acid water ration and immediately saw it chew off some rust I couldn't even scrape off with my finger at the inlet of the tank. Gonna leave it for 24 hours. Excited...
It's strong stuff.
Check out Jeep forums for awesome ideas on what to do with the rusted bottom gerry can. Tool boxes, tow strap storage, even beer coolers. Awesome cleaning tops my friend! Zip~
+ZippoVarga Waiting for paint to dry on the project to finalize the video. But you're really close.
+sixtyfiveford I hope you'll post a video! Zip~
Careful with Muriatic or Hydrochloric acids, instead go to Lowe's or HD and buy Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep for about $18 a gallon (April 2021). Cleans, converts and doesn't keep eating the steel like the aggressive acids. Clean, let the acid sit overnight, drain and use baking soda and water to flush (or just alcohol) and dry with your leaf blower. Then coat the inside with POR-15.
I would highly recommend not sniffing the tanks after muriatic acid has been present. A big whiff and your sinus can be burnt from the fumes. I know a kid that found a cup of it on a job site and it took months for him to recover.
'Varnado' toilet bowl cleaner, and 'The Works' toilet bowl clean are each 20% HCl (Just in case you can't find anything else, , , ,but check the label, they might have different formulas)
Putting the acid and water on steel will generate hydrogen gas. It's not that big a deal but then you tightly secured the cap and pressure will build. HCl cleans fast, eats sheet metal fast and rusts fast after it's rinsed off. IMO you can never get it all off and the metal will always rust at an accelerated pace after an acid wash. The fumes will make all your steel and iron in your garage rust too.
last year I was able to get a good price on two gallons of evaporust to use on a Yamaha Vino tank.
It's pricey but the tank is only 1.2 gal and it did work.
I just priced Muriatic acid. Definitely a lot cheaper. You can dilute it and it is infinitely more reusable it seems. Oh well.
I find that vinegar will eventually remove all rust and will not harm the metal. For instance I had a rusty motorcycle drive chain that was almost neww no mileage done but it was seized tight and covered with rust after some 40 years in the rain, after a month in the vinegar it came out clean, no rust on it, all rust melted away in the bottom of the bucket.
True, it's just slow.
Your old school Dodge shirt is perfect for catching splashing acid!
No you didn't !!
+Jason Curry It's ok, because I wore a Chevy shirt in the video as well.
sixtyfiveford lol. I forgot to mention that
I have one of those gas cans I bought 30 years ago . I used it for my mini bikes and go carts back then.
+1970chevelle396 They're great tanks as long as water is kept out...
No. Never hydrochloric or "muriatic" on ferric items (iron, steel). Use phosphoric acid, H3PO4, instead.
A daft punk right on the acid... Naval jelly, aka Phosphoric Acid....thanks finally someone with sense not spreading BS, shoddy work!!
Jep. This stuff will leave the top layer of the metal pretty much rust proof.
Before you mention gas tank liners, I was actually going to suggest that it.
Idea for that wrecked gas can, make it a safe if you think about it, if someone break into your shop, most likely they wouldn't grab a rusty old gas can so you could hide stuff underneath it.
+ARednecksLife You're mighty close to my idea for building it.
what you can do also at the end of a acid wash is flush the tank with a hose yes water pref hot then when dun to get rid of the water past use rubbing alc of if you are in in a hury let air dry.
Strait acid is the best. It will eat the rust instantantly. And the bare metal won't really be harmed unless you left it too long I'd imagine
I heard you can put a bunch of ball bearings in a can and put it in your car for several weeks/months and it will knock the rust down.
Wow i’m really impressed, i happen to have some muriatic acid laying around too
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Use a box of BB's to help remove rust, just fill with water and BB's and shake like heck.
Did dude just drop some O.T. Genesis?
I learned, I laughed, I subbed!
Working from the point, that you've decided they are worth all the effort(and that it's a moot point,that they would be easier to replace.):Perhaps you should change your approach. If this were my project(and it's not. so yes it's indeed your opinion that matters here not mine. I will apologize right from the get go.) I would turn this in to a welding project. First, just cut all the bottoms out to start with. Carefully avoiding the rolled edge seams(where the bottom meets the sides.) . Just cut and knock out, the centers. Then just sand blast them clean(inside and out.). Then, just mig weld an 11 gauge steel bottom on(placing your weld on/around the bottom.)
Just search out any pin holes, and weld over. A much easier approach. The important thing(to state the obvious.) is that they are watertight. Though you should still be able, to get a cosmetically acceptable seam on bottom.
+Schralenberger You still have to rid the inside of gas vapors that have buried themselves into the steel before you weld/cut. An acid wash does just this. Welding up a few pin holes or a small patch is much more considerable than an entire bottom. I would guesstimate these at around 18gauge and you know what a pain they can be to weld without just doing stitch spot welds.
Thank you for the great video. I was looking to clean rust from the Coleman Lantern Gas Tank. This will do the job. Again, thank you so much.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
white vinegar used at 50%/50% with water is a very effective ratio and works great.
vinegar 100% is too much?
i was planing to use vinegar and some bolts as recommended in the video with my metal bike fuel tank
don trump 100% vinegar works but the 50/50 mix is equally effective and water is free. If you try it and think it needs more, just dump more in. I use it at 50/50 and its great.
MGTOW KNIGHT
thanks, ill try it soon. Did you coat the surface afterwards with something? (to prevent rust in the future)
Yes, you have to rinse it really well with water, then dry it before it can rust, then spray primer on it. If you are coating the inside of the tank, I read on the back of the "chassis saver" can that it is oil, solvent, and fuel resistant. I haven't done it yet but I will. "Chassis saver" is the same as POR15 but about half the price. It's on Amazon.
MGTOW KNIGHT
are you sure those 2 products are compatible with gasoline?
ive been researching them and they look like thick paint that is applied to exterior surfaces only.
Hey man your video is awesome. I have 6 of the metal gas tank exactly like yours and with your introductions I was be able to remove all the rust from inside and for that a big THANKS.
I notice that you have couple plates in your garage if you need more I can give you like 10 more.
Awesome. I don't mention it in the video but a few ounces of oil diluted with some gas swished around will help stop any flash rust.
sixtyfiveford Do you think is ok to reused the vinager? Or in each tank I neet to add new one.
About the plates I mean it if you want it I can send it to you or if you live in Utah we can meet some where.
I've reused the acid but it seams to get significantly weaker. I don't really formally collect license plates. The ones on the door are ones that I've just happened to run across over the years. I've thought about doing a collection of all the states or something, but don't have the wall space to display something that massive. Thanks a million for the offer! -Moe
I'm from Aruba. I can see a couple of Aruban license plates in the back. Cool!!!
Awesome!
Great video...Thanks... I need to clean my Model A gas tank. Replacing it is a no as the car has been freshly painted and I do not want to remove the whole cowl. gakkk. I am guessing this would do the trick. hard part would be the sloshing around but I think the rust is mostly on the lower part so perhaps just putting a couple gallons in. anything I should be aware of other than the acid being acid and being sure to neutralize after?
Just watch it closely as this method is pretty fast. If you leave it too long it will start to eat good metal. Be prepared to dilute it and or neutralize it. Also, be prepared for your petcock to get clogged multiple times with chunks of rust.
Is your acid "Deluded or diluted"? ;)
Hard to get the acids over here in Scotland.
+Big Ian Builds Here it is used for swimming pools to neutralize the PH level. So it is available readily.
Nice vid I use the apple cider vinegar and paint thinner takes about two days but same effects. Nice video man!
+corie Dunning Yeah, it's amazing what apple cider vinegar can do.
corie Dunning I have to do it
Wouldn't not mixing HCl with water have much faster results?
Yes, but it is extremely strong to begin with and adding water just lets you contact more surface area inside the tank.
Fun in the sun with chemistry 101.
Thanks for the video Moe.
+EdOfTheNorth Thanks.
Ok so i did it. Worked amazing. One hint of caution. Watch how fast you add the neutralizer. Mine was like a mini volcano lol. Otherwise it looks great.
That's great, I'm glad you tried it out.
I've used Gravel in a Gas Tank before to clean rust and sloshed it around for about 20 minutes with gasoline in it.
+TRX Vlogger Yeah, that's a great tip. I've spent many hours sloshing rocks or bolts around in gas tanks to clean them.
Yupp me tooo haa. I WIll remember your trick though next time I need it. Thanks Moe.
Couple of handfuls of pennies works really well.
How about some metal BB's in the mix?
Thank you. Great video. Have you ever rebuilt a diaphragm pump. My pump in my camper new replaced or rebuilt and I'm not sure which way to go.
+Marcus Kloepping I have torn them apart before. The one I was trying to do I couldn't find a rebuild kit for. Years, ago they used to be $100+ plus but I just checked Amazon and some are only $20-30 for a complete new pump. The weakest link in a cheap pump is going to be the electric motor. So If your pump has little use and not rusted I would rebuild it if it was cheaper than a new one.
Just the information I was looking for. Great information once again. You are handier than a shirt pocket!
+D Jaco Thanks for watching.
Put in some nuts and bolts and beach sand and then put it in a paint shaker for 5 min. or so. That should shine her up. Salt water sand is the best....... got any close @ hand? LOL
What do you think of using EvapoRust on a rusty gas can? EvapoRust is safe to your skin and eyes and also removes the rust safely. Also, it can be reused many, many times over.
+Buick Mackane I' m sure it works, just slower.
A couple of questions, what liner do you prefer to put in and could weld a new bottom in the one that's shot? Replacing those cans is expensive and the stuff has to be DOT certified. Not to mention the new ones are of flimsier material.
+57WillysCJ Older metal cans are grandfathered in and exempt from DOT requirements as far as I know. I May weld a new bottom into the green one but it will be thicker and better than new.
you can buy the original jerry can casket flat rubber i go one for mine --on line cheap
Great demo- thanks. I have a CT110 motorcycle that needs the tank cleaned. It is not real bad but I want it to be dependable and stop the rust. Do I need to use a tank liner like POR 15 if there are not yet holes or deep pits?
Will the rust stay pretty much stopped if I keep using fuel with no alchohol in it?
-- A friend of mine turned a gas can like that into hitch hiking "luggage" by putting a bottom on with snaps. Standing along the road with a gas can is a good way to catch a ride.
+Kirk Johnson Just flush it and you're done. I wouldn't coat it unless you had a hole. Keeping the vent closed on the Hondas and ethanol free fuel will prevent rust for sure.
I was hoping that was the case- thanks.
Thanks for all the good videos too
How about sandblasting? Or media blasting?
Will this acid affect the welding of the tank? How much is the soaking time? How much amount of baking soda and water have you added to neutralize the acid?
Acid affect welding: No. Soaking time: depends on acid concentration and rust severity. Baking soda: You can't use too much; go until you so no more bubbles/reaction.
Yo Moe, perfect timing I have a motorcycle tank I need to clean out before spring. Thumbs up! Thanks!
+Bruce B Great. I hope it helps.
what brand of tank sealants would you recommend? my tank is sound and has no leaks, but after a year of my bike standing still, its rusted inside heavily.
I use a teaspoon of oil mixed with about the same amount of gas to coat the inside. LIght surface rust won't hurt anything. You can use a commercial tank sealers as well.
I'd like to see you try your hand at rust removal through electrolysis with your battery charger, a dissimilar metal and an electrolyte. In this instance. I'd start with a long rod and rubber stopper, then switch to a tub and some plates to do the outsides. If it goes well you'll just have to leave it overnight to attract away all the rust, leaving bare metal behind. Then close up any holes and paint. Disposing of the rusty bucket of electrified water is another story.
+The Sqoou Electrolysis seams like something I would have a lot of fun with.
Great explanation! Did you use any coatings after you cleaned them? I noticed also you had 3 different shirts covering the big 3 automakers.......pretty neat!
Marbles. Put a bunch of marbles in the tank and shake, a lot. Beats all the flakes out. Works better than nuts and bolts.
Thanks for the vids.
I've tried nuts and bolts, I'll have to give marbles a shot.
I use pennies. Works really well.
Hi very informative video, I’ve just got a question what liquid did you mix with the baking soda to neutralise the acid? Thanks.
Water.
@@sixtyfiveford Thank you for that, I’ve done the first part and tank has come up pretty well. Thanks for the videos it’s helped me a lot. 🙂👍
read my comment frank davidson
Plumbing supplies sell that acid. Great tip.
+cutworm59 It's probably used as drain cleaner.
Muriatic acid is sold at pool supply stores, Home Depot and Lowe's also sell it in the garden departments out west.
Great tip! How much gas do those cans hold?
+cubbeezx 20 liters or 5 gallons.
Ah man, wish I would have seen this video a couple years ago. I did the apple cider vinegar with nuts and bolts and it did not work well, left it for 48hrs. This would have saved me a lot of time. Thanks for the video, now I know!
+SLO70 It seams to work within a few hours. It does need to be watched though as if it sits too long it will start to eat the metal.
I pulled my gas tank off of my sidekick that sat. It had fresh gas which I emptied out. Should I flush with water and let dry first before I do the muriatic acid and water method?
It will dry out by itself pretty rapidly. No need to rinse it out.
Thanks for posting! The acid really cleaned the rust up, but it also ate up the metal. As you say, if you were painting, the surface would have great "tooth".
I'm in the process of salvaging some rust-damaged things, and I've turned to oxalic acid. It is great because it only eats rust, doesn't eat the metal -- works very much like phosphoric acid does: only eats rust, and leaves a coating that won't flake off the surface and that doesn't have to be removed. Also even lower cost than the very affordable phosphoric acid. Not as hazardous as muriatic acid though it should be used like muriatic acid -- in an open area or with positive ventilation.
+Sean Flanagan Interesting. I've never heard of oxalic acid.
+sixtyfiveford
I hadn't either. I was going to use the potato method but my trusty Ace guy got me to try phosphoric acid, which does work great but is a bit pricey. Did a search for bulk phosphoric acid and stumbled into some forums for hot rods, with tons of info on restoring vintage cars. Learned about oxalic acid and its benefits, such as not eroding the metal; option to leave parts in the solution for very long periods if that was convenient, etc., but the clincher that compelled me to try it was a thread about leaving a frozen hinge in the solution for some time and taking the hinge out and it moved freely.
Found a very, very good price at an eBay vendor, Florida Labs: www.ebay.com/usr/floridalabs?rt=nc
I recommend you give it a try.
The phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in Navel Jelly, that is readily available at most stores. I will give the oxalic a try.
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid...just diluted with water
Would the muriatic acid eat the plastic filter screen.in a scooter gas tank ? I know the plastic container is being used in holding the acid..
No it shouldn't. Fuel tanks are generally made of/have HDPE plastic and that is the same type used to store muriatic acid.
My major concern is when using vinegar or anything like that in gasoline and neutralize in with baking soda do you have residue that you have to concern yourself with that might be harmful twin engine
You wash everything out with water. There will be no residue.
Just remember.... the rust will come back the next day if you do not use a sealant. At least that's what happened to me.
Sam Cyanide which sealant do you prefer?
I tried it and was afraid to leave too long and of course after only 15 minutes it didn't work. I'm going to do again and I know it will. A lot of people scream about how the rust will reappear in 30-45 minutes. I was considering rinsing the tank with diesel fuel because if the oil content. Did you treat the metal at all after? It's a gas tank of a 63 plym Sport Fury
Yes, you'll need to protect the raw metal. Diesel fuel is a great option.
Don't leave muriatic acid in a garage or barn or all of your tools will tarnish
Hi, I need your advise. I have a 1943 U.S. Army jerrycan, the inside is fine, it's covered with a white porcelain like stuff. The outside though is not great, it's not rusted but the paint is really dull and worn. I put half a gallon of kerosene in that can about 35 years ago and it's still there. Short of respraying the can, what can I do to spruce it up a bit?
+RobertoDonatti A 1943 would be one of the first ones we ever made. I would oil down the outside with kerosene or diesel.
+sixtyfiveford they were imported after the war. I found it in a jeep my dad used to have
+sixtyfiveford thanks for the tip
+RobertoDonatti
You can also do what the "American Pickers" do with old metal, wipe it down with Liquid Gold. I couldn't find it local so I had to order it online directly from them. It brought back memories when I used it the first time. My mom used it all the time back in the 60's. Good luck!
Clean it with acid/water first just like the video. Throw some nuts and bolts in it strap it to the rear wheel of your truck. Jack the wheel off the ground. Idle in drive for 20 min. All will be shine (I use my small tractor)
i hav a good orig jerry can with donky dong wuth one prob not rust it has a dent about 8 in in dia in the side /////?????how can i remove the dent
So it'll be my first time using this method. I Need to clean a rusty 5 gallon generator gas tank. What ratio would suggest? maybe 2 gallons acid, 2 gallons water, water in first, slosh it around for a bit with some marbles or rocks or bbs? Rinse it out and then a quart of diesel sloshed around to coat the tank? Does this sound about right? Then neutralize with baking soda and water? Anything I'm missing
You can reduce the amount of acid it will just take slightly longer. So 1 gallon acid and fill the rest with water.
Bottom of the tank has a metal drain. Any suggestions as to what I can plug it with?
@@googler5130 I generally use fuel line and kink it or jamb a bolt in the end of it.
so mix baking soda and vinegar or water ?
That's how I made volcano's for Show and Tell.
Use a pressure washer to clean the varnish off the inside. That's the yellow stains
What did you add to the baking soda? Water or vinegar?
Water.
@@sixtyfiveford vinegar would have been a stupidity. )
i use vinegar , not that dangerus and pretty effective ! nice vid as allways !
+transdetendal It works. Thanks.
can one uses a baking powder?
Fantastic solution and presentation! I am going to use this to clean an old van gas tank. Will take two of us to slosh it around! Thank you for the formula!
I may sound like a clown for asking but can i use this same method on my honda civic fuel tank or would it be better i try something different?
It would work to remove the rust, but you will need to recoat the inside when your done.
@@sixtyfiveford no prob, thanks for the heads up mane
Thanks I got 2 generator and tractor. Wish me luck
Hey Moe I did this to a generator fuel tank and twice the rust reappears even when I placed some fuel in the tank.Any ideas? Thanks
hdman97 coat the tank with something like red coat
Surface rust won't affect anything, but flaky/scale rust that comes off will. You can swish a little diesel fuel( diesel is just thin oil), some 2 stroke gas, or really any oil mixed with some gas around. Coating the rank with red coat is also a great idea to prevent any future rust.
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks Moe I'll try that. Thanks Sawyer will look for Red Kote
Thanks man. Informative. Good presentation.
What did you use for a coating in the inside?
I swished some diesel fuel around and that's about it.
Use it all the time. Let me pick your brain a min. 2000 Tacoma. The year of the bad frames. I have one on pa that came from California. So it's great shape. Just little speckle if rust hear and there. Last year a soaked every nook and cranny inside and out with phospheric. Then used boiled linseed oil for a preventative , after reading farmers used it for years as a preventative. Last week was checking it out. It's not holding like I want. I need to redo exstensive cleaning and want another oil type stuff to use. Yea fluid film. Mabey. But Mabey there is an industrial type stuff I don't know about ????
+Jason Curry I use 30w chainsaw bar and chain oil as it has built in tacking agents to make it cling. The youtuber mustie1 (his name is Darren) did a concoction of toilet bowl wax to spray down his vehicles. You have to heat it up to a liquid and spray it on (kind of a pain). But it looks great.
Good info. AND you get to keep using your old green one!
+MRrwmac I may weld in a new bottom into the green one.
Great lesson. When you neutralized the can though, you talked about water and vinegar and the jug didn't have any markings on it. Was that water or vinegar that you poured in after dumping in the baking soda ?
Thanks, and keep those great videos coming.
+Toadydoh No, I was just remarking that you will get an identical reaction of adding baking soda to vinegar as baking soda to muriatic acid. Most people have added baking soda to vinegar so it was just an example. The jug was just water.
After cleaning I like to electroplate the inside of my gas tanks using junk D batteries. Battery acid recovered from junk batteries works well for electroplating.
Need a video on that.🤔
A word of warning. Dilute your acid by adding the acid to water. Best to do it in a separate container. I've witnessed people that did it by adding the water to the acid and it had a violent reaction and got all over them.
True.
How would evoparust work
The fumes from that stuff will rust everything in your shop especially those tool boxes
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
What would u use to seal the tank if u did
+jbosem I always seal the leak from the outside with JB weld, brazing or soldering.
Can't you paint the inside or will the gasoline eat it out
Yes, they sell gas tank coating/paint.
Rust comes back quickly, especially with ethanol. Did you do any protective coating on those or any? How effective are they? In '65, my dad had a '65 Galaxie 500; my wife had a '65 Galaxie 500 conv.
Future tool box or try to fix a new bottom!
Excellent demonstration...!
+Curiosity Thanks Man.
Wouldn't these cans be great candidates for electrolysis?
Electrolysis doesn't work well on oily parts. Gasoline is an oil so if there's any remnants of gasoline it'll probably deter electrolysis from happening.
I had seen someone on youtube use electrolysis on a cast iron pan and all the caked on buildup came off and the pan looked new.