I love how chill Matt is. "You wanna wrap me in tape?" and there he is, wrapping you in tape. 😂 Perhaps he's known you too long to be surprised by anything at this stage.
Stays, they're called "stays". You're monolog sounds so much like my inner voice.....Btw-Abby Cox or Bernadette Banner can def answer you corset/stays questions.
Making corsets isn't too hard, just kind of complex. Fitting corsets... That's the challenge. I've been making them for years and wish I could pop over and walk you through it all. Cute corset belt!! They make such a fun accessory!
These are wonderful! For the third corset belt: you also need more "hipspring": that's the difference between your waist and hip specifically at the side. Even though it doesn't look like you have much difference on a regular basis, you have what we call a "squishy" torso. A lot of the wrinkles around the waist will go away if you make the curve at the sideseam (and maybe the back seam) more dramatic.
I also think part of the problem is the cording all being straight up and down rather than being a bit more diagonal and some section and wrapping around the curves.
@@sallythekolcat Boning emphasizes and stabilizes the existing shape of the seam. Once she gets the shape and size right, boning will definitely help provide better compression.
Yeah, basically more curvy, which can be solved with a few godets for added room for the hips, and then I would also make the total width smaller, so there's a bit more room for actually cinching. That would probably be the easiest way to adjust the already existing pattern and garment. I can't remember if the line of grommets or eyelets is supposed to stay vertical or if that is only for corsets with metal bones or closures.
I was also thinking that for the corded one a waist tape would help for the cinching if it's not as structured? Possibly also using twine rather than wool would give more stiffness?
I've been making Corsets for years. Corsets are not difficult to make, just incredibly time consuming. Get yourself a disappearing marker and mark the tops of each piece. As far as grommets, I set them all by hand. As much as I want a machine setter, It's more gratifying to hand set. Grommets.
Ooof Noelle from Costuming Drama says all the time - corsets and stays aren't difficult it's usually just a LOT of straight lines!! I'm an aspirational sewist (I watch a lot of costube but haven't made anything for 20 years, in high svhool lol) and am planning to make a corset and one of Charlie's split side skirts as my first pieces... why? You tell me hahahaha
I need to make a very sturdy underbust corset with shoulder straps to help with posture and scoliosis. Seriously just thinking about nice thick leather. It's going to go on over my t-shirt. But I live in the south and the humidity also makes me think I should just buy a mesh one and add the shoulder straps. Probably will end up doing both.
@@cheekyb71 I did the split side skirt as my first and it's currently my favorite article of clothing! Literally just finished it yesterday and tbh might wear it the rest of the week😂
When making corded stays/corsets, you actually want to cord the fabric before cutting your pieces to the correct size because of all that shrinkage. You also might want to put in a few carefully placed lightweight bones (front, back, sides) to keep the overall structure. A heavier fabric would also help, like you said. You're so close, keep at it!
I was going to suggest as proof of cincept, adding some bones to either sides of the lacing and zipper and a couple down the sides, either by cramming them into the cord channels or adding boning channels, I found cut off hems from salvaging fabric to be great temporary boning channels when you're figuring out where the bones need to go.
So, I'm not the only one that can't resist beautiful upholstery fabric. The heavier ones I make drawstring bags. There is so much beautiful fabric, so little time.❤
When I started sewing historical ish clothes in the late 90 I found an upholstery only fabric store that considered anything less then 5 yards a remnant. And it has so much better body then modern costume fabric.
I get a lot of my beautiful upholstery fabric from the tip shop. Bargain, as they normally are on a roll. Often pay $5 to $10 for 10 metres. Never, go to waste. I do my corsets from upholstery fabric and zip ties. They fit beautifully.
I made cloth shoes with upholstery fabric a few years ago, they've held together pretty well but i think I need to make some felt or sheepskin insoles cause they're pretty thin, and recently made an apron from it, will probably use more for a corset project soon, or at least the mockup or maybe lining.
I truly love how you usually turn every project into an experiment and make more than one version. I learn so much from you (and I’ve been sewing for 50+ years now). I mostly avoided making garments in the early years because I was not comfortable with fitting and there is nothing worse than spending a ton of time and money on a project you can’t stand to wear😂.
Everything about this makes me feel like you'd love Morgan Donner's video where she used fabric from a swatch book to make a patchwork corset vest thing
“What could be easier? Many things.” We Stan an icon. I’ve been so inspired by you, my mom is getting annoyed. But! I almost got her to let me zhuge together a shirt for the upcoming family reunion/extended family photo. Because sacks are apparently coming back into style. (And my torso is long, and my proportions are not what clothing companies think they should be.) We got a shirt that fit the widest portion, and while we were thinking about how to take it in, I was inspired by you and suggested pleats. It worked! And we did the easy pleating method of stretching a piece of elastic to its widest stretch, zigzag stitched it, and let it relax. It worked great!
I'm greatly enjoying this fascinating period in language evolution when all us anglophones are experimenting with variable spellings for "zhuge" lol (I spell it "zhuzzh" personally, but I think there are many good possible standards!)
I absolutely love watching your sewing videos. I got really discouraged when I started watching sewing videos on youtube. My stuff looked like garbage while the creators would be like, it's so easy!! I love watching you learn, make mistakes, and be awesome about the whole process. I feel like we could hang out and be pals!
Lovely as always! The “couch” fabric was actually my favorite, but old lady florals are my aesthetic, lol. At this point my mom knows your upload schedule, because I always send her the puppy moments of your videos - truly something for everyone
You actually can totally futz around with corsets. I would highly recommend Mariah Patty. She's made quite a few corsets where she changed the patterns and totally did her own thing. They're super instructive and really fun to watch.
For making real corsets, I recommend watching one of Sara Spaceman's in-depth videos on the topic. She explains them really well and it's not just following directions.
"Corsets Are Too Hard" MOOD! I'm on mockup 3 of aarrggh on my first full corset. Looking forward to watching your shenanigans in the video. This seems very timely for me.
Keep going! The most frustrating part is the fitting, but once you have done that, the sewing is really enjoyable (at least for me). And you get rewarded with a piece of clothing that fits you like a glove.
Regarding the question about fully-boned stays (which is what they're called), some of them were fully boned! If you want to try to wing it for a set of stays, I strongly recommend watching Mariah Pattie's videos on 18th century - because she did a crap-ton of experimentation and actually discovered a formula that you can use to draft your own historically adequate 18th century stays. I'll find that video and drop it in the replies to my comment.
Here's the video with the info about drafting stays! ruclips.net/video/c6dzhexyw8E/видео.htmlsi=7cWWZEgkt7eJx6Di I also just recommend her videos in general, because they're great.
The corsets you're talking about are often referred to as fully boned stays and they indeed had boning all the way around. That style seems to be more popular in the early 1700's. The later 18th c had "half boned" stays. I also think Elizabethan Bodies were also Very Boned.
I kept not using my nice fabrics and trying to find the smallest size piece for a project, and then realised that I was buying new fabric that I liked anyway, amassing a hoard.... I might as well have my dodgy projects made out of something beautiful and just pass on the fabrics I wasn't drawn to. I feel like this is especially relevant if you're never going to do a mockup (or only going to do the mockup) It also means you can have multiple small things made from a large pretty piece!
I love hearing you singing showtunes. It throws me back to my college years, when my roommate and all my friends were musical theater kids. xD Which always meant karaoke night was incredible.
Hey here's a tip on to make the inside of bias binding look good when you do the stitch in the ditch method : usually you would pin it so that the inside lays slightly longer than the outside. But the problem is that it can still shift under the sewing machine. So what I like to do ( and this is inspired from leatherworking ) is to use a regular stick of paper glue to glue the inside of the bias tape in place. And then I use a few pins too. This really helps with everything staying put while you sew. It also works for assembling collars and cuffs on dress shirts. Plus, that type of glue is made so that kids' garments can be washed if they mess up, so it goes away in the laundry. Leatherworking is interesting bc since every hole is permanent, you really have to nail it on the first try. So craftsmen use a glue to hold all the layers in place while making the holes and stitching. I think it can be used for sewing fabric as well! Thanks for the amazing videos 🌸
I’ve made several corsets, and made a video about it a while back; it’s on my channel if you want to see. But here’s a tip for making them a bit more structural: use denim inside. I got a bunch of 100% cotton jeans at a thrift shop, and cut them up and used the fabric as my “strength layer” between my main fabric and my lining fabric. It helped to make them a little heavier and stronger. I use them as back braces when my back pain is bad, so structure is important to me. 🙂
You know, I have been wishing for _days_ that it was Friday already, because I noticed that you usually post on Friday, and I really missed watching your videos and just hearing you talk. Lysm! Some of the fanfictions I follow also update on Friday, but this week, your video is what I was most looking forward to 💙
I have started sewing in january with a pretty bad machine, and got my very basic veritas 2500 last month. I immediately ran to my local fabric store and found the Butterick 4254, which I almost screamed over when I saw it in the catalogue. I came home and cut out the pieces out of thrifted non stretch fabric. Pretty soon I started on my first real one. This pattern is incredibly straightforward. Cut it out, seam with 5/8 allowance, fold them over and sew them as boning channels. I am using version c and I'd recommend it to anyone that wants to make their first corset. It really is a breeze. I have been very inspired by you in my sewing journey and your curious ways, specially the "why wouldn't I be able to do that?" Mentality has been helping me in every aspect of my life❤
If you're looking for a good, easy-to-use overbust / historically adequate corset pattern with good instructions you can follow or ignore (as the case may be), I recommend Redthreaded. The pattern pieces are well drafted, and if you get the PDF pattern and print it, you can always re-use the pattern for Frankensteining between historical/modern fashion styles :) (The Victorian version would work well for the standard corset shape. They also have historical stays patterns similar to the example pictures you posted with all the boning)
Seconded. TheBoudoirKey also does very good patterns. You really want to start corsetmaking with a pattern and go from there, rather than starting from nothing.
The word you're searching for for the mega-boned garments is "stays", and yes, they absolutely can and often do have as much boning as they appear to. They result more in creating a semi-rigid structure *around* the body rather than reshaping the body itself like corsets do, which just takes more structure to accomplish. (Still comfy and supportive, though!)
I'm so happy you made this video. I'm drafting a pattern for a corset belt for my daughter, and I was stymied. Now I have a direction to go in. Great job. I love the flowered one the best.
I had to laugh when you described the first floral as "Grandma's couch". I do in fact have a loveseat upholstered in what I think is the exact same fabric that I inherited from my grandmother. I love the copper ribbon with it!
The American Duchess Simplicity stays pattern is really great, simple, and American Duchess has blog posts and sew alongs plus they show you how to personalize how the boning and such goes Also Red Threaded has great patterns OR I think they have sew-it-yourself options that you get all the stuff and just have to sew it
Somewhere out there - on the internet that is - is (or was) an Elizabethan Bodies pattern generator. The ratio of instructions to figuring it out yourself might be right in your sweet spot!
It's still up, I checked on it a couple weeks ago, and though I don't yet have a finished garment, the mockup has been the most promising corset-like thing I've tried so far (I am "dad-bod with boobs" shaped, every other corset pattern I've looked at/mocked up expects a lot smaller waist and much bigger hips).
i definitely prefer the look of the first one, in terms of structure. i think i'd personally appreciate the utility of the second one just because having all your lacing in front of you seems so much easier to put on and take off. the coloring of the third one definitely is my favorite though overall, they all have their strong points, and this was a very good video. (also, you have excellent taste in music)
I was able to predict this would happen with the corded corset. At minimum you need boning on either side of the lacing, along the zipper and at your side to keep it from buckling. They all look amazing though! I used nail clippers to cut my boning too 😁
I made 1790s stays from a red threaded pattern and absolutely did not follow the directions cause they didn't make sense to me lol. You can absolutely not worry about the directions. You got this!!!
pretty sure there is meant to be a few bones in the corded corset for structure like the front and back centre's, side seams and cut the top pieces wider to account for loss in sewing the cord. plastic wrap and tape is a great way to get pattern pieces, used it a few times myself. love the puppy stick collection
yes! the zip-front corset belt outfit definitely gives esmeralda! maybe just unpick tiny bits to replace some of the cords strategically with boning...? maybe cut off or cut down the side seams and add boning there, too...?
The large floral print would make great applique on denim jacket or jeans. I totally understand the hesitation on using fabrics that are special. I think it's because a length of fabric has so much potential, it's aspirational. The truth is there will be more fabric and it's too easy to become a fabric hoarder.
I made my first corset when I was sewing my wedding dress and it turned out surprisingly well. I have always heard that corsets are really hard to make, and I do believe that for maybe historically accurate corsets or corsets with a very specific shape or purpose. Either way, I will definitely be making more eventually as well
As someone who has made waist cinchers, corset belts, and underbusts - I will say the one thing I heavily recommend: Cotton Duck fabric. 12-14oz. It's stiff enough that you can put lighter fabrics on top of it, and you don't have to bone it if you don't want to.
Coutil is great stuff. But, if you are just starting out *or* you aren't looking to make these regularly, cotton duck will give you a good basis to work with that is fairly inexpensive in comparison.
Okay I love that I'm not the only one who got Esmerelda vibes from the last one with the purple skirt, honestly I was wondering if that was an intentional choice
I used your "classic grandma's couch" fabric on a seat replacement on a ladderback chair i use at my sewing machine! I love that fabric and it's very durable. Very fun video.
The pieces with cording are supposed to be starched. That will make it hold shape way better. I really love how the 3 pieces came out and the similarity with esmeralda's outfit can't be unseen 😍 so cute!
the moment of "that was fun ... but ugh I have to do it again/ the other side/ the inside" is so real! I loved learning how to gather ... do not currently love gathering 8 panels of a dress that then need to be sewn through to connect on my under $200 machine :O
28:49 Your combo of the white shirt, purple skirt, and the blue belt is SCREAMING Esmeralda! How cute! On the subject of directions/following instructions, this may lean parasocial but I get the feeling it's something I'll understand on a deep level. Whether its a "I am more comfortable with guidelines and just handling the details in my own way as I need to for my brain to relax" or "Directions were ALWAYS poorly given, not precise enough, or vague and hard to understand but I was always told I was the problem", something in the sentiment speaks to me.
The damask roses in mauve & green, the one you called classic grandma's couch? You are right. My children's grandmother's couch was upholstered in that fabric.
They all look so good, especially with the peasant blouses! The colourless side of the floral is my favourite. Definitely giving me ideas about the upholstery fabrics that I've accumulated from thrift stores and flea markets.
Swiss waist. Love these. I'm right there with you when it comes to making corsets. So much so, my stance is Why should I torture myself making and (trying to) fitting it, when I can just buy one from someone who already knows what they're doing and are willing to do it? I really like the criss cross boning you did. I also love Matt's response to Can you cover me in tape . . .😂 Nicely done.
Could you open the binding and sneak some boning into the corded corset belt? That would give it a bit more structure without actually changing the look.
The purple skirt look is giving serious Esmeralda vibes! Lol, I started typing this out before the video was over, and here you are a minute later making the same point. Yeah, it's Esmeralda. :p All three turned out really cute! You're giving me ideas, ahhhhh!!!
You've got me convinced... I'm gonna make a corset with my pretty, shimmery, purple remnant fabric! I want to make it reversible as well, soooooooooo I'll have to scheme! These are all lovely! You did a beautiful job!
If you tape a small bag to the side of your sewing table you can just swipe all loose threads and small bits of fabric in without it dropping on the ground! Also I'll definitely be making one of these, they are too cute! Thinking about using a strong black mesh to make it look modern but I'm probably gonna regret that xD
I keep a small mesh basket on my sewing desk behind the machine to corral scraps and threads etc ., as I have a rabbit who should NOT be eating threads so I have to be diligent about policing them up, as his favourite way to investigate anything new is to see if it's edible and so far has indicated that he enjoys the taste of linen and cotton and whatever they made the piping on my sofa out of :P
I’ve made a belt like this from leather before, but I’ve been meaning to try sewing one up for a while. Seeing how cute all three of yours turned out has inspired me to say I’ll finally do it. 😅
I made my first full length cupped corset recently, and I ended up caving and using a premade pattern. I have mixed feelings about it-obviously the pattern had to be altered because I don’t have “standard” proportions, and while it turned out pretty good, it’s not a perfect fit (with the 2 panels parallel on me when fully laced). However it is definitely better than what I would have been able to make without a pattern. All that being said, it is way better than a premade corset I bought previously, so I am happy I put in the effort. I would love to see what you could create because your sewing skills are certainly better than mine! I love how these underbust corsets turned out!
The corsets in the photos are stays, and yes, they typically had all that type of boning. Also, this video is encouraging and makes corset making of all types look like something I could do!!
Also throwing in, until fairly recently, you'd pretty much just self-draft things, so you don't necessarily have to follow a pattern for historical things! Especially like medieval clothing is basically just a series of rectangles and triangles.
uhh..This is an unexpected Gem. The wrapping and the draping...and "Long way down." Sounded like Hadestown???? lol Thank you for all the faces and thinking out louds...I feel encouraged to keep going lol
“I use patterns sometimes” one pattern 😂 you use one pattern
The cold opening about savory cereal was not expected, but not unwelcome
This comment popped up before the video loaded and I think it’s the first time a comment has increased my excitement for a video that dramatically 😂
@@Melavara 😂😂😂
Now I want savory cereal
The idea is genius and I must try it next time I have soup.
There's a reason oyster crackers or crumbled saltines on soup has been a long-standing tradition. Savory cereal slaps.
I love how chill Matt is. "You wanna wrap me in tape?" and there he is, wrapping you in tape. 😂 Perhaps he's known you too long to be surprised by anything at this stage.
And in the middle of it, he says he likes wrapping her in tape. It was just too cute.
Stays, they're called "stays". You're monolog sounds so much like my inner voice.....Btw-Abby Cox or Bernadette Banner can def answer you corset/stays questions.
Rachel masky can help her too I think, as they seems to have kind of the same chaos energy 😌
Making corsets isn't too hard, just kind of complex. Fitting corsets... That's the challenge. I've been making them for years and wish I could pop over and walk you through it all.
Cute corset belt!! They make such a fun accessory!
These are wonderful! For the third corset belt: you also need more "hipspring": that's the difference between your waist and hip specifically at the side. Even though it doesn't look like you have much difference on a regular basis, you have what we call a "squishy" torso. A lot of the wrinkles around the waist will go away if you make the curve at the sideseam (and maybe the back seam) more dramatic.
I also think part of the problem is the cording all being straight up and down rather than being a bit more diagonal and some section and wrapping around the curves.
You can also bone at the seams, and cord between.
@@sallythekolcat Boning emphasizes and stabilizes the existing shape of the seam. Once she gets the shape and size right, boning will definitely help provide better compression.
Yeah, basically more curvy, which can be solved with a few godets for added room for the hips, and then I would also make the total width smaller, so there's a bit more room for actually cinching. That would probably be the easiest way to adjust the already existing pattern and garment.
I can't remember if the line of grommets or eyelets is supposed to stay vertical or if that is only for corsets with metal bones or closures.
I was also thinking that for the corded one a waist tape would help for the cinching if it's not as structured? Possibly also using twine rather than wool would give more stiffness?
I've been making Corsets for years. Corsets are not difficult to make, just incredibly time consuming. Get yourself a disappearing marker and mark the tops of each piece. As far as grommets, I set them all by hand. As much as I want a machine setter, It's more gratifying to hand set. Grommets.
I cannot stop losing my grommet hardware, it's tragic
Ooof Noelle from Costuming Drama says all the time - corsets and stays aren't difficult it's usually just a LOT of straight lines!!
I'm an aspirational sewist (I watch a lot of costube but haven't made anything for 20 years, in high svhool lol) and am planning to make a corset and one of Charlie's split side skirts as my first pieces... why? You tell me hahahaha
I need to make a very sturdy underbust corset with shoulder straps to help with posture and scoliosis. Seriously just thinking about nice thick leather. It's going to go on over my t-shirt. But I live in the south and the humidity also makes me think I should just buy a mesh one and add the shoulder straps. Probably will end up doing both.
@@cheekyb71 I did the split side skirt as my first and it's currently my favorite article of clothing! Literally just finished it yesterday and tbh might wear it the rest of the week😂
@@rosaliac.386 That's the coolest anecdote I've heard today - sometimes the Internet is awesome!!! I have to do it!
At 16:54, those are Stays, the predecessor of corsets as we know them. This is for people wondering about it.
And yes for the most part they were fully boned...and hand sewn!
A lot of them also had cording vs boning. Cotton cord can also add a lot of extra structure, while keeping flexibility.
Also, the century for that type of stays is usually the18th ama the 1700's.
When making corded stays/corsets, you actually want to cord the fabric before cutting your pieces to the correct size because of all that shrinkage. You also might want to put in a few carefully placed lightweight bones (front, back, sides) to keep the overall structure. A heavier fabric would also help, like you said. You're so close, keep at it!
I was going to suggest as proof of cincept, adding some bones to either sides of the lacing and zipper and a couple down the sides, either by cramming them into the cord channels or adding boning channels, I found cut off hems from salvaging fabric to be great temporary boning channels when you're figuring out where the bones need to go.
So, I'm not the only one that can't resist beautiful upholstery fabric. The heavier ones I make drawstring bags. There is so much beautiful fabric, so little time.❤
When I started sewing historical ish clothes in the late 90 I found an upholstery only fabric store that considered anything less then 5 yards a remnant. And it has so much better body then modern costume fabric.
Ooo, a loose macrame over a beautiful upholstery fabric would make a cool bag!
I get a lot of my beautiful upholstery fabric from the tip shop. Bargain, as they normally are on a roll. Often pay $5 to $10 for 10 metres. Never, go to waste. I do my corsets from upholstery fabric and zip ties. They fit beautifully.
I made cloth shoes with upholstery fabric a few years ago, they've held together pretty well but i think I need to make some felt or sheepskin insoles cause they're pretty thin, and recently made an apron from it, will probably use more for a corset project soon, or at least the mockup or maybe lining.
I truly love how you usually turn every project into an experiment and make more than one version. I learn so much from you (and I’ve been sewing for 50+ years now). I mostly avoided making garments in the early years because I was not comfortable with fitting and there is nothing worse than spending a ton of time and money on a project you can’t stand to wear😂.
Everything about this makes me feel like you'd love Morgan Donner's video where she used fabric from a swatch book to make a patchwork corset vest thing
That was a great video. Morgan is so dang creative.
“What could be easier? Many things.” We Stan an icon. I’ve been so inspired by you, my mom is getting annoyed. But! I almost got her to let me zhuge together a shirt for the upcoming family reunion/extended family photo. Because sacks are apparently coming back into style. (And my torso is long, and my proportions are not what clothing companies think they should be.) We got a shirt that fit the widest portion, and while we were thinking about how to take it in, I was inspired by you and suggested pleats. It worked! And we did the easy pleating method of stretching a piece of elastic to its widest stretch, zigzag stitched it, and let it relax. It worked great!
I'm greatly enjoying this fascinating period in language evolution when all us anglophones are experimenting with variable spellings for "zhuge" lol (I spell it "zhuzzh" personally, but I think there are many good possible standards!)
I absolutely love watching your sewing videos. I got really discouraged when I started watching sewing videos on youtube. My stuff looked like garbage while the creators would be like, it's so easy!! I love watching you learn, make mistakes, and be awesome about the whole process. I feel like we could hang out and be pals!
when doing fully corded pieces, corded the fabric, then cut out the piece. saves the brain.
Lovely as always! The “couch” fabric was actually my favorite, but old lady florals are my aesthetic, lol.
At this point my mom knows your upload schedule, because I always send her the puppy moments of your videos - truly something for everyone
yes! i love the floral. to me, it gives "pirate wench" vibes! :)
It was my favorite too
You're not alone, I too like old style floral prints. ❤
The transition from whale basket to whale mug was immensely satisfying
You actually can totally futz around with corsets. I would highly recommend Mariah Patty. She's made quite a few corsets where she changed the patterns and totally did her own thing. They're super instructive and really fun to watch.
For making real corsets, I recommend watching one of Sara Spaceman's in-depth videos on the topic. She explains them really well and it's not just following directions.
Also Minji Lee has some great fitting tips from both corset and body suit tutorials that have been invaluable.
Our sewing processes look eerily similar, especially the half-singing-half-mumbling musical theatre songs
"Corsets Are Too Hard" MOOD! I'm on mockup 3 of aarrggh on my first full corset. Looking forward to watching your shenanigans in the video. This seems very timely for me.
Keep going! The most frustrating part is the fitting, but once you have done that, the sewing is really enjoyable (at least for me). And you get rewarded with a piece of clothing that fits you like a glove.
Regarding the question about fully-boned stays (which is what they're called), some of them were fully boned! If you want to try to wing it for a set of stays, I strongly recommend watching Mariah Pattie's videos on 18th century - because she did a crap-ton of experimentation and actually discovered a formula that you can use to draft your own historically adequate 18th century stays. I'll find that video and drop it in the replies to my comment.
Here's the video with the info about drafting stays! ruclips.net/video/c6dzhexyw8E/видео.htmlsi=7cWWZEgkt7eJx6Di I also just recommend her videos in general, because they're great.
The corsets you're talking about are often referred to as fully boned stays and they indeed had boning all the way around. That style seems to be more popular in the early 1700's. The later 18th c had "half boned" stays. I also think Elizabethan Bodies were also Very Boned.
I kept not using my nice fabrics and trying to find the smallest size piece for a project, and then realised that I was buying new fabric that I liked anyway, amassing a hoard.... I might as well have my dodgy projects made out of something beautiful and just pass on the fabrics I wasn't drawn to. I feel like this is especially relevant if you're never going to do a mockup (or only going to do the mockup)
It also means you can have multiple small things made from a large pretty piece!
I love hearing you singing showtunes. It throws me back to my college years, when my roommate and all my friends were musical theater kids. xD Which always meant karaoke night was incredible.
Hey here's a tip on to make the inside of bias binding look good when you do the stitch in the ditch method : usually you would pin it so that the inside lays slightly longer than the outside. But the problem is that it can still shift under the sewing machine. So what I like to do ( and this is inspired from leatherworking ) is to use a regular stick of paper glue to glue the inside of the bias tape in place. And then I use a few pins too. This really helps with everything staying put while you sew. It also works for assembling collars and cuffs on dress shirts. Plus, that type of glue is made so that kids' garments can be washed if they mess up, so it goes away in the laundry.
Leatherworking is interesting bc since every hole is permanent, you really have to nail it on the first try. So craftsmen use a glue to hold all the layers in place while making the holes and stitching. I think it can be used for sewing fabric as well!
Thanks for the amazing videos 🌸
Brilliant!
You have no idea how timely this is. I need wide belts and this will fit the bill without being too much! Thank you!
Love the black and grey dress! It makes me think of the art deco era.
I have never watched your video with the closed captioning before and your captions are AMAZING.
I’ve made several corsets, and made a video about it a while back; it’s on my channel if you want to see. But here’s a tip for making them a bit more structural: use denim inside. I got a bunch of 100% cotton jeans at a thrift shop, and cut them up and used the fabric as my “strength layer” between my main fabric and my lining fabric. It helped to make them a little heavier and stronger. I use them as back braces when my back pain is bad, so structure is important to me. 🙂
This is why I want to make a corset but need to learn more, back support. Thanks
11:46 Makes sense when you think old boning was make of keratin as are our nails so you were inadvertently precise. 😂 I love the piecing!
This is giving me hope, corsets seem so daunting to me! I'm gonna try some of these myself now!
The diamond one i love! It worked so well with the blues. The cording one is so cute but deffinitly needs adjustments
You know, I have been wishing for _days_ that it was Friday already, because I noticed that you usually post on Friday, and I really missed watching your videos and just hearing you talk. Lysm!
Some of the fanfictions I follow also update on Friday, but this week, your video is what I was most looking forward to 💙
I have started sewing in january with a pretty bad machine, and got my very basic veritas 2500 last month. I immediately ran to my local fabric store and found the Butterick 4254, which I almost screamed over when I saw it in the catalogue. I came home and cut out the pieces out of thrifted non stretch fabric. Pretty soon I started on my first real one.
This pattern is incredibly straightforward. Cut it out, seam with 5/8 allowance, fold them over and sew them as boning channels.
I am using version c and I'd recommend it to anyone that wants to make their first corset. It really is a breeze.
I have been very inspired by you in my sewing journey and your curious ways, specially the "why wouldn't I be able to do that?" Mentality has been helping me in every aspect of my life❤
The pupper looking right at the camera was so cute! 😂
If you're looking for a good, easy-to-use overbust / historically adequate corset pattern with good instructions you can follow or ignore (as the case may be), I recommend Redthreaded. The pattern pieces are well drafted, and if you get the PDF pattern and print it, you can always re-use the pattern for Frankensteining between historical/modern fashion styles :)
(The Victorian version would work well for the standard corset shape. They also have historical stays patterns similar to the example pictures you posted with all the boning)
Seconded. TheBoudoirKey also does very good patterns. You really want to start corsetmaking with a pattern and go from there, rather than starting from nothing.
I wasn't massively interested in corsets till I watched this. Now more ideas are fizzing. Appreciate you x
The word you're searching for for the mega-boned garments is "stays", and yes, they absolutely can and often do have as much boning as they appear to. They result more in creating a semi-rigid structure *around* the body rather than reshaping the body itself like corsets do, which just takes more structure to accomplish. (Still comfy and supportive, though!)
I love "fusts" around! My Grandmother use to say that. I am 83. Nice memory. Thank you.
It is gratifying seeing how bravely you overcome your fears to dive into a project wholeheartedly. And three projects at the same time, wow!
I'm so happy you made this video. I'm drafting a pattern for a corset belt for my daughter, and I was stymied. Now I have a direction to go in. Great job. I love the flowered one the best.
I had to laugh when you described the first floral as "Grandma's couch". I do in fact have a loveseat upholstered in what I think is the exact same fabric that I inherited from my grandmother. I love the copper ribbon with it!
The American Duchess Simplicity stays pattern is really great, simple, and American Duchess has blog posts and sew alongs plus they show you how to personalize how the boning and such goes
Also Red Threaded has great patterns OR I think they have sew-it-yourself options that you get all the stuff and just have to sew it
Somewhere out there - on the internet that is - is (or was) an Elizabethan Bodies pattern generator. The ratio of instructions to figuring it out yourself might be right in your sweet spot!
It's still available. I haven't put it to use yet but did input measurements and download results about a year or two ago.
It's still up, I checked on it a couple weeks ago, and though I don't yet have a finished garment, the mockup has been the most promising corset-like thing I've tried so far (I am "dad-bod with boobs" shaped, every other corset pattern I've looked at/mocked up expects a lot smaller waist and much bigger hips).
i definitely prefer the look of the first one, in terms of structure. i think i'd personally appreciate the utility of the second one just because having all your lacing in front of you seems so much easier to put on and take off. the coloring of the third one definitely is my favorite though
overall, they all have their strong points, and this was a very good video. (also, you have excellent taste in music)
I was able to predict this would happen with the corded corset. At minimum you need boning on either side of the lacing, along the zipper and at your side to keep it from buckling. They all look amazing though! I used nail clippers to cut my boning too 😁
I made 1790s stays from a red threaded pattern and absolutely did not follow the directions cause they didn't make sense to me lol. You can absolutely not worry about the directions. You got this!!!
pretty sure there is meant to be a few bones in the corded corset for structure like the front and back centre's, side seams and cut the top pieces wider to account for loss in sewing the cord.
plastic wrap and tape is a great way to get pattern pieces, used it a few times myself. love the puppy stick collection
I used the tape patterning trick for a custom dress form cover this week - shockingly accurate and straightforward
yes! the zip-front corset belt outfit definitely gives esmeralda! maybe just unpick tiny bits to replace some of the cords strategically with boning...? maybe cut off or cut down the side seams and add boning there, too...?
I like how you just slam the grommets right through the fabric, no holes, nothing. Chaos!!
You are literally everything I want to be when it comes to design and sewing. Love your videos so much
All 3 look great. As for that floral 'that looks like grandma's couch,' I think it looks way better once it is in the corset.
I love all your fun mugs!! what a cute whale! the texture on the bottom is neat!
"This nearly was mine" hurt my heart remembering the whole song, scene, and favorite performers.💔
I'm 70 years old and remember my great grandmother wearing a full boned corset every day of her life. Amazing!
The large floral print would make great applique on denim jacket or jeans.
I totally understand the hesitation on using fabrics that are special. I think it's because a length of fabric has so much potential, it's aspirational. The truth is there will be more fabric and it's too easy to become a fabric hoarder.
The last corest belt with the purple skirt and white top totally gives Esmeralda vibes
I love that you recognized the Esmeralda disneybound potential! I put it together almost immediately when I saw that outfit.
I made my first corset when I was sewing my wedding dress and it turned out surprisingly well. I have always heard that corsets are really hard to make, and I do believe that for maybe historically accurate corsets or corsets with a very specific shape or purpose. Either way, I will definitely be making more eventually as well
As someone who has made waist cinchers, corset belts, and underbusts - I will say the one thing I heavily recommend:
Cotton Duck fabric. 12-14oz. It's stiff enough that you can put lighter fabrics on top of it, and you don't have to bone it if you don't want to.
How robust a machine do you need to sew duck and do you use it as a lining or interfacing? I'm curious to try this.
I actually have a Pfaff Aspirations 1.0, which is mostly for garment and quilting and it can handle it.
Coutil, which is a tight, stiff cotton twill, is what is traditionally used. It can be mail-ordered from some places.
Coutil is great stuff. But, if you are just starting out *or* you aren't looking to make these regularly, cotton duck will give you a good basis to work with that is fairly inexpensive in comparison.
Historically adequate is such a great term. And that's also kind of what I'm going for. Love the video by the way.
Loved the patternwork you did with the zip ties on the middle pannel! Even if you can't see it too well, you know it's there 😁
Love how we have almost the exact same playlist of theater songs and how these corsets turned out!! :D
Okay I love that I'm not the only one who got Esmerelda vibes from the last one with the purple skirt, honestly I was wondering if that was an intentional choice
I used your "classic grandma's couch" fabric on a seat replacement on a ladderback chair i use at my sewing machine! I love that fabric and it's very durable. Very fun video.
Omgg they turned out so cute!!!! I’ve always loved corset belts and when I showed my mom this video she said we can make me some at somepoint :D
The pieces with cording are supposed to be starched. That will make it hold shape way better. I really love how the 3 pieces came out and the similarity with esmeralda's outfit can't be unseen 😍 so cute!
The loophole: call it a bustier! Then the historical-fashion-police (lol) can't complain XD
the moment of "that was fun ... but ugh I have to do it again/ the other side/ the inside" is so real! I loved learning how to gather ... do not currently love gathering 8 panels of a dress that then need to be sewn through to connect on my under $200 machine :O
I have never been this on time here
that black and gray dress is looking so Comfy
that purple one is so Esmerelda
I love this vid so much
I have never wanted a corset before, but now I want nothing more than this.
28:49 Your combo of the white shirt, purple skirt, and the blue belt is SCREAMING Esmeralda! How cute!
On the subject of directions/following instructions, this may lean parasocial but I get the feeling it's something I'll understand on a deep level. Whether its a "I am more comfortable with guidelines and just handling the details in my own way as I need to for my brain to relax" or "Directions were ALWAYS poorly given, not precise enough, or vague and hard to understand but I was always told I was the problem", something in the sentiment speaks to me.
Lol the no and snag before the fabric hits the floor. Signs your ready for a toddler. 😂😂😂
I recognized “superboy and the invisible girl” from ‘next to normal’ and “winner takes it all” from ‘mamma mia’
Macramé is making a comeback. I was at our biggest fabric store and they are now selling small spools of thicker rope for macramé! Woohoo!
I am surprised that you don't have a better sewing machine with all of the sewing you do.
In the Heights and Next to Normal and highly underrated in my opinion. 😂
The damask roses in mauve & green, the one you called classic grandma's couch? You are right. My children's grandmother's couch was upholstered in that fabric.
When I made a bodice for RenFaire, 30 years ago, I used thrifted butter knives as my boning! Talk about heavy!
The blue skirt/white blouse and belt is giving me Mary Poppins vibes, and I'm here for it.
They all look so good, especially with the peasant blouses!
The colourless side of the floral is my favourite. Definitely giving me ideas about the upholstery fabrics that I've accumulated from thrift stores and flea markets.
Swiss waist. Love these. I'm right there with you when it comes to making corsets. So much so, my stance is Why should I torture myself making and (trying to) fitting it, when I can just buy one from someone who already knows what they're doing and are willing to do it?
I really like the criss cross boning you did.
I also love Matt's response to Can you cover me in tape . . .😂
Nicely done.
Could you open the binding and sneak some boning into the corded corset belt? That would give it a bit more structure without actually changing the look.
The purple skirt look is giving serious Esmeralda vibes!
Lol, I started typing this out before the video was over, and here you are a minute later making the same point. Yeah, it's Esmeralda. :p
All three turned out really cute! You're giving me ideas, ahhhhh!!!
Your video editing is really getting good.
Corsets are fun but expensive and take relatively little fabric. So great project to tackle.
You've got me convinced... I'm gonna make a corset with my pretty, shimmery, purple remnant fabric! I want to make it reversible as well, soooooooooo I'll have to scheme! These are all lovely! You did a beautiful job!
If you tape a small bag to the side of your sewing table you can just swipe all loose threads and small bits of fabric in without it dropping on the ground!
Also I'll definitely be making one of these, they are too cute! Thinking about using a strong black mesh to make it look modern but I'm probably gonna regret that xD
I keep a small mesh basket on my sewing desk behind the machine to corral scraps and threads etc ., as I have a rabbit who should NOT be eating threads so I have to be diligent about policing them up, as his favourite way to investigate anything new is to see if it's edible and so far has indicated that he enjoys the taste of linen and cotton and whatever they made the piping on my sofa out of :P
Love that first one! Both sides are great! Nicely done! 💕⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I’ve made a belt like this from leather before, but I’ve been meaning to try sewing one up for a while. Seeing how cute all three of yours turned out has inspired me to say I’ll finally do it. 😅
I made my first full length cupped corset recently, and I ended up caving and using a premade pattern. I have mixed feelings about it-obviously the pattern had to be altered because I don’t have “standard” proportions, and while it turned out pretty good, it’s not a perfect fit (with the 2 panels parallel on me when fully laced). However it is definitely better than what I would have been able to make without a pattern. All that being said, it is way better than a premade corset I bought previously, so I am happy I put in the effort. I would love to see what you could create because your sewing skills are certainly better than mine! I love how these underbust corsets turned out!
Now I have to listen to Next to Normal again 🥰
So many people love lantana but I think they’re hideous. Good choice. Also that pleated stripey dress is so great.
These came out amazing. The second and third are my favourite. Also the third one with the purple skirt looks like Esmeralda
The corsets in the photos are stays, and yes, they typically had all that type of boning. Also, this video is encouraging and makes corset making of all types look like something I could do!!
Also throwing in, until fairly recently, you'd pretty much just self-draft things, so you don't necessarily have to follow a pattern for historical things! Especially like medieval clothing is basically just a series of rectangles and triangles.
I love the one you describe as "couch-y!" It's actually my favorite one.
Someday I'll get brave enough to attempt stays or a corset! Thanks for experimenting and going for things and making them feel more approachable!
He who dies with the most cloth wins. 😂 thanks for the think through and video.
uhh..This is an unexpected Gem. The wrapping and the draping...and "Long way down." Sounded like Hadestown???? lol Thank you for all the faces and thinking out louds...I feel encouraged to keep going lol