Thanks kindly Bob. Between your videos and what Chad at Turner's have made I've finally wrapped my head around everything involved with these. I can't wait to get started.
You are welcome, I’m happy my video was helpful. Here is a link to all of the tools I use. Many of them come from Turners Warehouse. drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk Regards, Bob
I do not think Niel Butterfield sells the tap & die holder anymore. I believe Chad sells it. Go to: www.turnerswarehouse.com/?ref=8zgq7wolkt- Search for: Tap & Die You will see the holder as well as several to the taps and dies you need. Regards, Bob
I finally got a chance to watch this all the way through. Your order of operations makes a lot more sense than what I've been trying (and failing). Thanks for posting these. Now I have a weekend project.
Now THAT is pen MAKING!!!!....Will get the PDF list but will have to get parts as and when. Already have vernia, tap and die set ( not sure of sizes between USA and UK) but will have to see... Have lots of kits to make first and experience to gain but now I have a future focus as well. Many thanks Bob.. still got a lot of your kit videos to go but truly enjoyed these.
Really nice Bob. The bespoke pen is high on my want-to-do list. Really appreciate you sharing how to make them. Now I just need to acquire some more tools 😊👍
Very cool video again. I found the tip of turning around the thread die very valuable. Thanks for that. And thanks again for showing all the detail steps building such a kitless pen. I love it. :-)
Thanks for this series it’s really informative as are all your videos and I thoroughly enjoy them. Getting a big chuckle from the metric and imperial mixed dimensions but I do have a warped sense of humour. Great work.
I am now a kit less pen maker now because of your videos. I can’t thank you enough!!! I started from your videos about a year ago, and I was just watching this again as just a refresher. Thank you so much. I would love to send you a pen. Please tell me how!
Thanks, Bob! I don't care for blue, but the rest looks awesome. Maybe someday when I am rich I might try that. Hopefully my pens sell well enough I can try my hand at this style!
I am impressed. Beautiful pen. I can see where it is quite an investment to do this, but it also takes a great deal of talent and skill. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for posting this video series! I’ve been wanting to jump into kitless pens for a while and have been waiting for someone to show me how. Cheers and keep up the good work!
I really like your videos. I like your order of work drilling all the darn holes. I’m going to try to use my bock nib when i get up the nerve to start drilling. Wish i had known you were in Louisville i was there recently visiting family.
12:36 If your existing section is 19.33mm you "should" cut your blank LONGER, otherwise it will end up shorter after dressing and polishing. You can always cut it shorter but it's bloody hard to put it back on. Great series of videos I enjoyed them a lot, Thank you.
All 3 videos where really helpful, beautiful bespoke pen colour and finish Bob! My question for this pen to you is to mention if is suitable for ink cartridge or suction pump? and if kindly can ask you to demonstrate the proper way of fitting either in future video Thanks a lot !
Thank you Kwstas. The pen can use a cartridge or a suction based converter. I will demonstrate once I purchase some. I only bought the nibs to start. Regards, Bob
You ave guilted me. A while ago I participated in a group buy and have triple start taps and dies that have been in the box, unused, for several months now. I'm gonna have to get after it. Go Clemson Tigers! 😜
I love it. Fantastic looking pen. I think you could finish your vídeos testing your amazing pens writing with american brand ink (helping national makers). Greatings from Chile (South America).
great video. can we have your tips on what products we need? we may all have a lthe and basic stuff, but these accessories to turn kitless would be really helpful. thanks!
Ah, you realized the collet chuck problem I was talking about. Great job, Bob, the pen looks really nice. Are you going to try adding a clip on one? Billy
Some put o rings and silicone grease on the threads and use an eyedropper to fill the body with ink. The o ring and silicone then act as a seal. But the joke is . . . . . "How do you tell if someone is using an eyedropper pen? " Look for the ink stains on their hands and shirt pockets. Thank you I'll be here all week, try the veal. :-)
Looks great Bob. Have you given any thought to how you would price these type pens for your website? It is time consuming but after you make some more you will likely find ways to save some time. Speaking of your website, when will it go live?
This was a very interesting series. Before this, I hadn't seen a kit - less pen. I'm looking forward to seeing more of them. During the build, you often were measuring depths to 0.1mm precision. How critical is the accuracy?
Sir I apologize if you’ve already addressed this; but do you have a list of the tap and die, collet chuck set and drill bits and a place to purchase them? I’ve been turning kit pens for a while and would love to start kit less pens like the one in this series. Thank you for a great video and for your time in making it
I'm behind on your videos - hope to get caught up today! Will be awhile before I can produce these Bespoke pens, I was fascinated with the Lathe Collet Chuck, I can see an enormous advantage to that optional approach. One question, sources for the various mandrels you used in the videos? I've found Amazon maybe a source for the Collet Chuck and probably the sliding tap & dye holder as well - you're always costing me money! The one question I did have was answered in the 3rd video as to how to clean the mineral oil up - just not use it and use WD-40 instead with denatured alcohol to cut that. Much enjoyed the content length bedamned, just shows more details.
Really enjoyed all three of these videos. Watched last year but was busy in studies. Now I’m ready to start. I’d love to know the type of lathe needed and all the drills, taps, dies to do this. I’d like a clip on the top on mine though. I do have a small metal lathe but suspect it won’t do this right. Can you point me in the direction of the kit needed please.
That metal lathe might just work. Here’s a list of the tools I use: drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk Shop around you can save some money. Regards, Bob
Man, those are tight tolerances! I'm watching your tap through the concave portion of that section. If you had went any deeper you would have had some problems! Sitting this kit-less thing out, I can't afford the investment, but man, it sure is interesting.
This was lovely to watch. I am doing my research to learn how to turn pens. I have drafted a model for a pen from my childhood that I loved using. It was a german made pen, and it glided on the page. It was stolen. I have been obsessively wanting to use that same pen again. One day... How long does it usually take, sir, before I can turn my own pen, and finish it as you have? And how can I make my own clips, feeder, and trims?
The amount of time really depends on your skill level. Some people learn faster than others. It you are already adept at turning you will get up to speed quickly. The worst part about this is the expense. Regards, Bob
I believe I would make the cap a bit longer. Part off a section, drill and tap it then thread it back on with a clip between the two pieces. At least that's what I plan to try. I haven't done that yet.Regards,Bob
Hi Bob, I really appreciate your 3 videos. I am doing some pens with regular kits from now on. I am to the next step of doing more kitless pen so Thank you for all this really clear videos. Can you tell me where you pik your triple tap and die. I have somme problem findind them. Michel
Jim Hinze at Hinze Pens on Facebook organizes group buys and I purchased it as part of one of them. All are welcome to join in on the buys. Regards, Bob
Don’t read the comments past this point or else you will Change. The way you tone your voice and how you comment is why I can enjoy videos about my hobby.
I’m using the www.pennstateind.com collet chuck. It comes with 6 collet sizes then I bought a 19-20mm collet off eBay to use with it as well. Regards, Bob
Great looking pen Bob, if you dont mind, how much did you spend on the required tools? Also silly question but i dont know, can these be made out of wood?
I don’t see an issue with lacquer, it is a hard finish that will polish up nicely. I always tell people to start with what they have available in their shops. Welcome to the hobby.
I have a few questions. I have had a really tough time with the section. I have a lot of failures when I am tapping for the nib? Are some acrylics better for the section than others? Also where did you get that yellow micro mesh?
There are people teaching this at pretty much every pen turning show. Also, you may contact a turners club in your area, they may have a member who can teach it. I don’t know of any schools. Regards, Bob
Hey Bob, I have really enjoyed your videos and learned a ton! As a fellow South Paw, have you looked at any adjustments needed for the nib to accommodate left-handed folks?
On the top of the cap, why don't you make a tenon the same size as the end of the body where you screw on the section? Then turn another short piece and tap it like the cap thread end. Get a clip that has the same diameter as the threads and screw it together with the short cap. However, you do need to get a bottoming tap to put threads in the very short clip cap. A bottoming tap does not have a taper. Just a thought. Otherwise, I remain in awe of your video.
Question about the tap/dies. Is a triple start tap/die set only used for the body and the lid? Then another specialty tap that fits the specific nib and then a "regular" tap/die for the section and body joint? Boy those triple start tap/dies are hard to find. Any idea where to find them at a good price or where to find group buy opportunities?
You’re exactly right on the tap and dies. I got mine from a group buy through the IAP. Jim Hinze at Hinze pens on FB sets up group buys too. Regards, Bob
thank you. I have some precision machined mandrels of various thread and pitch sizes. The fit nicely into my collect chucks and standard jaws. However, sometimes (very often actually) I find whatever I am turning is out of round - especially where the section is inserted into the body. One side of the section is wider than the other. I do ensure that I remove some threads so all seat properly, but I continue to produce out of round sections. It is like I am using an offset chuck. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hello Tanner. , I was having the same issue on my TurnCrafter Wood Lathe. I recently purchased a metal lathe and I’m having no issues. I have used a Jet Lathe at my club and the pen was perfect. I’m starting to think the budget lathes just aren’t as well machined as some of the nicer brands. You will notice when you bring your tail stock forward that there is some front to back play. If you don’t hit it perfectly straight with every operation then you will get ovaled components. Regards, Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner thank you. I have 5 lathes. None are budget ones, but none are metal. I think I need to get better at true-ing the blank. My centers are dead on and the section is short. Thanks for the reply and videos.
WD40 causes alumalight to swell a bit, as it can infiltrate slightly. That is beneficial if you are making parts that need to move since they will be self-lubricating after that but for a part with small threads it can be a problem after it dries out.
Tried the link you mentioned in a reply on one of the other videos regarding that sliding tap & die holder and the link didn't work, and I can't seem to find anything anywhere. Do you have a better link perhaps? I'd like to try one of these pens at some point, but of course I don't have one of those collet chucks and I don't have the sliding tap/die holder...course I could hold it by hand but I don't think I could keep it straight and steady enough to get good threads.
One additional comment on center drills: the tip is indeed 60deg but if you drill beyond the taper you are only contacting the edge of the hole you drilled. That might be ok but if you want full contact of your live center with your work then only drill to the end of the taper.
Hi Bob, im having trouble with my threads disengaging from the mandrel. Alnost like the threads have been ripped off the section and it will continue turning in the mandrel and not "bite". I assumed i was being too agressive when turning the section but you are much more agressive with your chisels than I am. Any idea why this is happening? Wondered if the same happened to you at any point
@@RJBWoodTurner thanks for the response Bob. Im using 11/1 so should in theory be ok. I notice it has a small amount of play when screwing the section in until it contacts with the shoulder of the grip. Assuming this is normal? Will take my tools to the grinder immediately before working on the grip section next time and see if it solves it.
@@RJBWoodTurner i have a bad feeling i forgot to switch the speed back up to the second gear meaning i would be around 1500rpm... i will make sure i go back up to around 3000rpm and sharpen my tools straight beforehand and see what happens. I really appreciate the responses Bob! If i cam ever make enough money from this hobby ill buy a fully variable speed lathe haha
When you were assembling the pen I noticed that the tines of the nib were out of alignment. Not sure if you corrected it but it won't write right unless both tines are even with each other. If you haven't tried realigning them just bend the lower one up with your finger again and again until it stays level with the other one. Get pen video wish I had the tools and the customers to get into this.
I can guarantee this is a ridiculous question, but I’ve got to ask it... why aren’t rasps and files used more often in lathe work? Is it because they would generate too much heat? Is it because of tear out issues? Are they too slow? Or is it because a blade leaves a much nicer surface and ultimately saves you time in the finishing process? Once again please be kind, this is coming from someone with zero lathe experience, and just enough fine woodworking experience/knowledge to get in trouble.
Thanks bob! I’m looking to get into the craft using some custom cast HDPE plastic (plastic with a 2 inside the recycling shield). I need to get a lathe first but I might try some tests on a drill press 😬
HDPE plastic done not finish well. It turns nicely and is great for non stick bushings. With Rasps, you could probably turn it in a drill press. Regards, Bob
I was thinking the same thing. If you drill deeper than the cone on the centering bit, then when you put the live center into the hole, the 60 degree of the center doesn't meet the 60 degree of the drilled out hole. It just meets the cylindrical hole that was left by the shaft of the bit. You should only need to drill about 2/3 to 3/4 of the cone of the bit into the end of the piece. That way the 60 degree tapered hole meshes perfectly with the 60 degree taper of the center.
I have a few questions. I have had a really tough time with the section. I have a lot of failures when I am tapping for the nib? Are some acrylics better for the section than others? Also where did you get that yellow micro mesh?
Thanks kindly Bob. Between your videos and what Chad at Turner's have made I've finally wrapped my head around everything involved with these. I can't wait to get started.
You are welcome,
I’m happy my video was helpful.
Here is a link to all of the tools I use. Many of them come from Turners Warehouse.
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Regards,
Bob
Bob, ur incredible, THANK YOU!
I do not think Niel Butterfield sells the tap & die holder anymore. I believe Chad sells it. Go to:
www.turnerswarehouse.com/?ref=8zgq7wolkt-
Search for: Tap & Die
You will see the holder as well as several to the taps and dies you need.
Regards,
Bob
I finally got a chance to watch this all the way through. Your order of operations makes a lot more sense than what I've been trying (and failing).
Thanks for posting these. Now I have a weekend project.
Thank you Jon,
Glad my video helped.
Regards,
Bob
awesome job MR BOB aka the mad scientist of pens !!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Rod,
LOL.
Regards,
Bob
Now THAT is pen MAKING!!!!....Will get the PDF list but will have to get parts as and when. Already have vernia, tap and die set ( not sure of sizes between USA and UK) but will have to see... Have lots of kits to make first and experience to gain but now I have a future focus as well. Many thanks Bob.. still got a lot of your kit videos to go but truly enjoyed these.
Thank you Buster.
Thai is an addicting hobby.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks - I learned so much from these videos and the excellent comments from some amazingly skilled folks.
Thank you Andrew.
Regards,
Bob
Really nice Bob. The bespoke pen is high on my want-to-do list. Really appreciate you sharing how to make them. Now I just need to acquire some more tools 😊👍
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the videos! I've got a feeling I'll be watching these a dozen more times! Pen turned out great!
Thank you Marc.
Regards,
Bob
That pen is a beauty! Spot on. Well done you sir.
Thank you David.
Regards,
Bob
I sincerely appreciate your having done this series. It was very helpful in my understanding what needs to be done.
Thank you Lawrence,
I have a video Coming out tomorrow that shows how to dans the inside of a clear pen blank.
Regards,
Bob
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob for showing this video series. All turned out amazing. Very well done.
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Very cool video again. I found the tip of turning around the thread die very valuable. Thanks for that. And thanks again for showing all the detail steps building such a kitless pen. I love it. :-)
Thank you Jürgen.
Regards,
Bob
Amazing. For too work intensive for me, but it was great watching the process. Thanks for what you do!
Thank you Michael.
Regards,
Bob
Please make more kit less pen tutorials!
I will. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Fantastic videos. I've been taking notes!
Thank you Andrea,
I’m happy to hear my video is helpful. 😃
Regards,
Bob
Extremely nice Bob!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Wonderful job Bob!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for this series it’s really informative as are all your videos and I thoroughly enjoy them. Getting a big chuckle from the metric and imperial mixed dimensions but I do have a warped sense of humour. Great work.
I catch myself all he time jumping back and forth. I need to settle on one.
Regards,
Bob
Wow Bob, You did an outstanding job thank you very much.
Thank you Eddie.
Regards,
Bob
I am now a kit less pen maker now because of your videos. I can’t thank you enough!!! I started from your videos about a year ago, and I was just watching this again as just a refresher. Thank you so much. I would love to send you a pen. Please tell me how!
Thank you.
I’m so glad my videos were helpful.
My mailing address is:
P.O. Box 114
Newburgh, IN 47629-0114
Regards,
Bob
Thank you, lovely video and pen. I have a dream of turning my pens one day. This video will help me a lot in the time I actually do it. God bless.
Thank you Thomas.
Regards,
Bob
That is truly beautiful, Bob. Thank you for sharing.
~Scott
Thank you Scott.
Regards,
Bob
Informative series, thoroughly enjoyed watching. Cant wait to see more
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Really nice job on the pen (all the videos). I'm new and learning a lot just watching you. Thanks.
George
Thank you George.
Regards,
Bob
Great job Bob. I enjoyed the series. I cant want to get everything I need to make one for myself. Thank for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you Christopher.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you very much Bob! I'm really happy you made this videos, this is defiantly somthing I want to do.
Regards, Bryn
Thank you Bryn.
Regards,
Bob
Great job, loved the series
Thank you Eric.
Regards,
Bob
Great job . The pen looks beautiful . Take care .
Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks, Bob! I don't care for blue, but the rest looks awesome. Maybe someday when I am rich I might try that. Hopefully my pens sell well enough I can try my hand at this style!
Thank you Doc,
I actually mentioned I would prefer black but didn’t have any then I edited that out.
Regards,
Bob
I am impressed. Beautiful pen. I can see where it is quite an investment to do this, but it also takes a great deal of talent and skill. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you David.
Regards,
Bob
That is one sweet pen, bespoke pens maybe in the future for me. Have a great week
Thank you Robert.Regards,Bob
That is just beautiful! Thanks for sharing all of this.
Thank you.Regards,Bob
Great series. Thanks.
Thank you.
Regards
Bob
Nice job great looking pen
Thank you Gary.
Regards,
Bob
awesome series Bob, great job man
Thank you Andrew.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for posting this video series! I’ve been wanting to jump into kitless pens for a while and have been waiting for someone to show me how. Cheers and keep up the good work!
Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
That's a sharp pen, Bob! Awesome job!
Thank you Robert.
Regards,
Bob
I really like your videos. I like your order of work drilling all the darn holes. I’m going to try to use my bock nib when i get up the nerve to start drilling. Wish i had known you were in Louisville i was there recently visiting family.
Good luck, Bespoke pens are a blast to make. No rules.
Excellent series Bob.
Mark S
Thank you Mark.
Regards,
Bob
Great job! I learned alot from you. Thank you.
Thank you Dane.
Regards,
Bob
What a stunning pen Bob I'm going to try an save and get some equipment
Thank you Nigel.
Regards,
Bob
look at all those ribbons .... and you have a pressure pot now ... hummmm what could we do with those i wonder. Great video bob keep up the good work
Thank you John,
I hope to tie these hobbies together soon.
Regards,
Bob
12:36 If your existing section is 19.33mm you "should" cut your blank LONGER, otherwise it will end up shorter after dressing and polishing.
You can always cut it shorter but it's bloody hard to put it back on.
Great series of videos I enjoyed them a lot, Thank you.
Thank you Nigel.
Regards,
Bob
All 3 videos where really helpful, beautiful bespoke pen colour and finish Bob! My question for this pen to you is to mention if is suitable for ink cartridge or suction pump? and if kindly can ask you to demonstrate the proper way of fitting either in future video Thanks a lot !
Thank you Kwstas.
The pen can use a cartridge or a suction based converter. I will demonstrate once I purchase some. I only bought the nibs to start.
Regards,
Bob
You ave guilted me. A while ago I participated in a group buy and have triple start taps and dies that have been in the box, unused, for several months now. I'm gonna have to get after it. Go Clemson Tigers! 😜
LOL, I’m glad I guilted you into using those tools. I can’t wait to see what you make.
Regards,
Bob
Great series. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Lee.Regards,Bob
I love it. Fantastic looking pen. I think you could finish your vídeos testing your amazing pens writing with american brand ink (helping national makers).
Greatings from Chile (South America).
Thank you Jorge.
Regards,
Bob
great video. can we have your tips on what products we need? we may all have a lthe and basic stuff, but these accessories to turn kitless would be really helpful. thanks!
Here’s a link to a tool listing:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Regards,
Bob
Amazing! thanks a lot!
Thank you Ernest.
Regards,
Bob
Ah, you realized the collet chuck problem I was talking about. Great job, Bob, the pen looks really nice. Are you going to try adding a clip on one?
Billy
Not this one but I will start adding clips on some pens. I need to either source them or make them, not sure which.Regards,Bob
Roll stops look really cool too!
Great job demonstrate video on how they are filled or how cartridges go in👍
Once I get some converters, I'll do a video.Regards,Bob
Some put o rings and silicone grease on the threads and use an eyedropper to fill the body with ink. The o ring and silicone then act as a seal. But the joke is . . . . .
"How do you tell if someone is using an eyedropper pen? " Look for the ink stains on their hands and shirt pockets.
Thank you I'll be here all week, try the veal. :-)
LOL.
Looks great Bob. Have you given any thought to how you would price these type pens for your website? It is time consuming but after you make some more you will likely find ways to save some time. Speaking of your website, when will it go live?
That’s been on my mind but I really have to make a few more.
Regards,
Bob
This was a very interesting series. Before this, I hadn't seen a kit - less pen. I'm looking forward to seeing more of them. During the build, you often were measuring depths to 0.1mm precision. How critical is the accuracy?
To 0.1 fairly tight tolerances. The closer you are the tighter the pen.
Regards,
Bob
Sir I apologize if you’ve already addressed this; but do you have a list of the tap and die, collet chuck set and drill bits and a place to purchase them? I’ve been turning kit pens for a while and would love to start kit less pens like the one in this series. Thank you for a great video and for your time in making it
Ask and ye shall receive:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Regards,
Bob
I'm behind on your videos - hope to get caught up today! Will be awhile before I can produce these Bespoke pens, I was fascinated with the Lathe Collet Chuck, I can see an enormous advantage to that optional approach. One question, sources for the various mandrels you used in the videos? I've found Amazon maybe a source for the Collet Chuck and probably the sliding tap & dye holder as well - you're always costing me money! The one question I did have was answered in the 3rd video as to how to clean the mineral oil up - just not use it and use WD-40 instead with denatured alcohol to cut that. Much enjoyed the content length bedamned, just shows more details.
I got my mandrel from Jim Hinze at Hinzepens.com. He’s a buddy of mine. Tell him I sent you.
Regards,
Bob
Really enjoyed all three of these videos. Watched last year but was busy in studies. Now I’m ready to start. I’d love to know the type of lathe needed and all the drills, taps, dies to do this. I’d like a clip on the top on mine though. I do have a small metal lathe but suspect it won’t do this right. Can you point me in the direction of the kit needed please.
That metal lathe might just work. Here’s a list of the tools I use:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Shop around you can save some money.
Regards,
Bob
Straordinario
Thank you.
Hi Bob, great video series. I'm curious what options are available for adding a clip to these types of kit-less pens?
I haven’t looked into it yet but I’d say the imagination is the limit. I want to figure something out soon.
Regards,
Bob
and I know you'll share all the goodness you learn. Thank you
you're really good
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Man, those are tight tolerances! I'm watching your tap through the concave portion of that section. If you had went any deeper you would have had some problems! Sitting this kit-less thing out, I can't afford the investment, but man, it sure is interesting.
Thank you, it’s pricy for sure.
Regards,
Bob
This was lovely to watch. I am doing my research to learn how to turn pens. I have drafted a model for a pen from my childhood that I loved using. It was a german made pen, and it glided on the page. It was stolen. I have been obsessively wanting to use that same pen again. One day...
How long does it usually take, sir, before I can turn my own pen, and finish it as you have? And how can I make my own clips, feeder, and trims?
The amount of time really depends on your skill level. Some people learn faster than others. It you are already adept at turning you will get up to speed quickly. The worst part about this is the expense.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thank you for responding, sir.
Loved this series of videos I have a question though how do you go about adding a clip to the cap?
I believe I would make the cap a bit longer. Part off a section, drill and tap it then thread it back on with a clip between the two pieces. At least that's what I plan to try. I haven't done that yet.Regards,Bob
Hi Bob,
I really appreciate your 3 videos. I am doing some pens with regular kits from now on.
I am to the next step of doing more kitless pen so Thank you for all this really clear videos.
Can you tell me where you pik your triple tap and die. I have somme problem findind them.
Michel
Jim Hinze at Hinze Pens on Facebook organizes group buys and I purchased it as part of one of them. All are welcome to join in on the buys.
Regards,
Bob
Don’t read the comments past this point or else you will Change. The way you tone your voice and how you comment is why I can enjoy videos about my hobby.
I appreciate your comment. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
You could use a piece of painter's tape on your bit so you can see where to stop easier.
Tyfs!
Thank you Niccole,
Always looking for new ideas.
Hello,
Thank you for making great content!
I just had a question, what pen jaw are your using?
I’m using the www.pennstateind.com collet chuck. It comes with 6 collet sizes then I bought a 19-20mm collet off eBay to use with it as well.
Regards,
Bob
Well done series, Bob. Now to take out that bank loan to get the taps, dyes and bits and bobs.
LOL, my kids might not be able to go to college but I can make Bespoke pens.
Regards,
Bob
Do you have all the measurements that you used to make the various pieces? I always learn something from your videos.
Currently I don’t but as I go forward I’d like to do some diagrams with measurements
Regards,
Bob
Mr. Robert, any idea on how to make a bespoke pen clip. Do i need to approach a goldsmith?
I haven’t started making those yet. There are lots of vids out there. I just need time time to watch, learn and simplify.
Regards,
Bob
Great looking pen Bob, if you dont mind, how much did you spend on the required tools? Also silly question but i dont know, can these be made out of wood?
Hello David,
Here’s a PDF I made of tools and cost.
I plan to attempt wood but I’m worried it may move to much.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurn
What feed housings are you using? And where did you find the tap and dies to fit the threads?
I don’t use a housing for this pen style. Tool listing:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wMrznNd2OKRvOp6BCc2DAb_LdoiqeZYi
@@RJBWoodTurner thank you!!
Im new to the pen turning world. I use a lacquer to get that "wow" finish on my wood pen's. Should i do something different? Or is that ok?
I don’t see an issue with lacquer, it is a hard finish that will polish up nicely. I always tell people to start with what they have available in their shops.
Welcome to the hobby.
I have a few questions. I have had a really tough time with the section. I have a lot of failures when I am tapping for the nib? Are some acrylics better for the section than others? Also where did you get that yellow micro mesh?
I like Alumalite best for nibs. The yellow pas came from Penn State, it’s their finishing kit.
Did you make or buy your lathe buffing attachment?
Purchased from www.pennstateind.com
Regards,
Bob
Thanks. I just found your review video.
Great videos! Do You know of any craft schools or classes that teach making bespoke pens?
There are people teaching this at pretty much every pen turning show. Also, you may contact a turners club in your area, they may have a member who can teach it. I don’t know of any schools.
Regards,
Bob
Awsome pen, i would lile to learn how to turn those especially out of burl they could sell wonderfully
Thank you Jonathan.
Regards,
Bob
the m10 x 1 die you use in this video is it single, double or triple start? Secondly where did you purchase it and the tap from thx
The M10x1 is a single start. I believe I got it off of EBay.
Regards,
Bob
Hey Bob, I have really enjoyed your videos and learned a ton! As a fellow South Paw, have you looked at any adjustments needed for the nib to accommodate left-handed folks?
I haven't, I'm still to new to the game to have gotten that far into it.Regards,Bob
Thanks BlueBoy9055!
Thank you for jumping in. I’m learning too.
Regards,
Bob
Thad Scalf
Sorry, message was meant to read (designed FOR left handed people)But you probably guessed that!!!!!
RJBWoodTurner
We’re all ever learning Bob!
Third one?!?! I missed the second one, are you linking them so we can reference all 3?
Yes there is a play list. I need to add this video today.
Regards,
Bob
Who hoo, turned a really great pen Bob. Will you fit a clip on so you can put it in your pocket too? As always, take care
Thank you Van,
Not for this one., I need more taps and dies to mount a clip.
Regards,
Bob
On the top of the cap, why don't you make a tenon the same size as the end of the body where you screw on the section? Then turn another short piece and tap it like the cap thread end. Get a clip that has the same diameter as the threads and screw it together with the short cap. However, you do need to get a bottoming tap to put threads in the very short clip cap. A bottoming tap does not have a taper. Just a thought. Otherwise, I remain in awe of your video.
Hello Steve,
This is only my third bespoke pen. I plan to research clips and tools than grow as I move forward. I’ll get there.
Regards,
Bob
Question about the tap/dies. Is a triple start tap/die set only used for the body and the lid? Then another specialty tap that fits the specific nib and then a "regular" tap/die for the section and body joint? Boy those triple start tap/dies are hard to find. Any idea where to find them at a good price or where to find group buy opportunities?
You’re exactly right on the tap and dies. I got mine from a group buy through the IAP. Jim Hinze at Hinze pens on FB sets up group buys too.
Regards,
Bob
Check out Turner's Warehouse if you're still looking for triple start taps and dies.
Was that a roughing gouge then a bowl gouge you used starting at 14:05?
Yes,
I used a 3/4” roughing gouge then a 1/4” bowl gouge.
Regards,
Bob
thank you. I have some precision machined mandrels of various thread and pitch sizes. The fit nicely into my collect chucks and standard jaws. However, sometimes (very often actually) I find whatever I am turning is out of round - especially where the section is inserted into the body. One side of the section is wider than the other. I do ensure that I remove some threads so all seat properly, but I continue to produce out of round sections. It is like I am using an offset chuck. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hello Tanner. ,
I was having the same issue on my TurnCrafter Wood Lathe. I recently purchased a metal lathe and I’m having no issues. I have used a Jet Lathe at my club and the pen was perfect. I’m starting to think the budget lathes just aren’t as well machined as some of the nicer brands.
You will notice when you bring your tail stock forward that there is some front to back play. If you don’t hit it perfectly straight with every operation then you will get ovaled components.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner thank you. I have 5 lathes. None are budget ones, but none are metal. I think I need to get better at true-ing the blank. My centers are dead on and the section is short. Thanks for the reply and videos.
WD40 causes alumalight to swell a bit, as it can infiltrate slightly. That is beneficial if you are making parts that need to move since they will be self-lubricating after that but for a part with small threads it can be a problem after it dries out.
That’s Interesting, I didn’t know that. I’ll avoid it unless I need to tighten something up. Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
I found this out the hard way this week!! Switched to Cooking spray now and no issues.
Tried the link you mentioned in a reply on one of the other videos regarding that sliding tap & die holder and the link didn't work, and I can't seem to find anything anywhere. Do you have a better link perhaps?
I'd like to try one of these pens at some point, but of course I don't have one of those collet chucks and I don't have the sliding tap/die holder...course I could hold it by hand but I don't think I could keep it straight and steady enough to get good threads.
I got that from www.neilsniche.com.
I’ve seen people bold them with a Jacobs chuck.
Regards,
Bob
Awesome, thank you Bob.
What kind of nib uses the m7 4.5 threads you used.
Hello Mark,
Jowo number 5.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner I think it’s the Jowo #6.
Does your 10mm wrench give you 10mm tenons ? I've tried this and due to clearances it was a little bigger.
It seems to, I'll Use the calipers to check the wrench then the tenon to be sure.Regards,Bob
Probably wouldn't make a difference since you were cutting threads. Any overage would just get cut off when threading.
One additional comment on center drills: the tip is indeed 60deg but if you drill beyond the taper you are only contacting the edge of the hole you drilled. That might be ok but if you want full contact of your live center with your work then only drill to the end of the taper.
Thank you Steve.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, im having trouble with my threads disengaging from the mandrel. Alnost like the threads have been ripped off the section and it will continue turning in the mandrel and not "bite". I assumed i was being too agressive when turning the section but you are much more agressive with your chisels than I am. Any idea why this is happening? Wondered if the same happened to you at any point
If you use a .75 or finer thread it may not have a good bite.
Your tool May also be dull. Check the edge.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner thanks for the response Bob. Im using 11/1 so should in theory be ok. I notice it has a small amount of play when screwing the section in until it contacts with the shoulder of the grip. Assuming this is normal?
Will take my tools to the grinder immediately before working on the grip section next time and see if it solves it.
What speed are you turning at? Maybe it’s to slow.
@@RJBWoodTurner i have a bad feeling i forgot to switch the speed back up to the second gear meaning i would be around 1500rpm... i will make sure i go back up to around 3000rpm and sharpen my tools straight beforehand and see what happens.
I really appreciate the responses Bob!
If i cam ever make enough money from this hobby ill buy a fully variable speed lathe haha
That’s a great investment.
Regards,
Bob
Hey can you give me a list of all the necessary parts that you used to make this pen
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Regards,
Bob
You can also get the same result as reversing your die by using a thread file with you machine running.
Thank you Steve.
Regards,
Bob
Could you do a kit less pen with a clip video?
As soon as I can find a good supplier of clips. Any leads ?
Regards,
Bob
When you were assembling the pen I noticed that the tines of the nib were out of alignment. Not sure if you corrected it but it won't write right unless both tines are even with each other. If you haven't tried realigning them just bend the lower one up with your finger again and again until it stays level with the other one. Get pen video wish I had the tools and the customers to get into this.
Thank you Kyle,
I didn’t notice that but I will check it out and fix it. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I can guarantee this is a ridiculous question, but I’ve got to ask it... why aren’t rasps and files used more often in lathe work? Is it because they would generate too much heat? Is it because of tear out issues? Are they too slow? Or is it because a blade leaves a much nicer surface and ultimately saves you time in the finishing process? Once again please be kind, this is coming from someone with zero lathe experience, and just enough fine woodworking experience/knowledge to get in trouble.
You can use Rasps but they will leave deep gouges that will be hard to remove. The tools, of sharp, but clean.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks bob! I’m looking to get into the craft using some custom cast HDPE plastic (plastic with a 2 inside the recycling shield). I need to get a lathe first but I might try some tests on a drill press 😬
HDPE plastic done not finish well. It turns nicely and is great for non stick bushings. With Rasps, you could probably turn it in a drill press.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the tips!! I’ll send a photo when I’m done :)
you still drilled too deep with the center drill
I was thinking the same thing. If you drill deeper than the cone on the centering bit, then when you put the live center into the hole, the 60 degree of the center doesn't meet the 60 degree of the drilled out hole. It just meets the cylindrical hole that was left by the shaft of the bit. You should only need to drill about 2/3 to 3/4 of the cone of the bit into the end of the piece. That way the 60 degree tapered hole meshes perfectly with the 60 degree taper of the center.
Thank you Kyle.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Gerald.
Regards,
Bob
I have a few questions. I have had a really tough time with the section. I have a lot of failures when I am tapping for the nib? Are some acrylics better for the section than others? Also where did you get that yellow micro mesh?
Straight acrylic is brittle. There are other materials like Alumilite, polyester resin and a bunch more that have some flex/five to them.
@@RJBWoodTurner what about that coarse micro mesh.. I am loving this construction technique..
Oh, I got that from Www.pennstateind.com.
Search for pen finishing kit.