Thanks for showing the troubleshooting! It's always interesting to see people thinking through the issues when things go wrong, and a great role model for problemsolving too!
Again, thank you for not cutting out the challenges to shorten the video. Seeing how an experienced turner deals with those challenges really helps noobs like myself to learn. Great video.
This is a work of beauty there man. I was actually planning on doing something similar when I stumbled upon your video and thank goodness I did because I would have screwed up royally if I didn't see your work. 😅
Thank you. I appreciate your comments. I hope you take what I did and make it your own by using the good parts and improving everywhere else. That is the beauty of this type of pen, tons of artistic freedom. Regards, Bob
Bob,as usual,excellent informative video! Again,love the fact that you share we all human and make mistakes and share how you choose to correct them! And as usual,you are the MAN with pen making! You never cease to amaze me with your creativity! Eric from Ohio
Hi Bob, it's great how you saved the Cap. Good you did not have to waste that beautiful blank. At 23:10 you worry about the mandrel. As I stated on the first video, you need to fit the collar into the chuck nut first, before you insert your blank or mandrel. I'm pretty sure, if you try that, the mandrel will actually run true. Great work and you really got me into considering starting to buy stuff needed as well. Still need to see where I can get the tools here in Germany. The mandrels I perhaps also will have to make myself from cast blanks. I'm really looking forward to see more of these .... sooooo beautiful.
Thank the Jürgen, I recorded this video the same time as the body. That’s why I hadn’t corrected the chuck yet. I will correct the chuck usage on the next one. Thank you for the great information. Regards, Bob
Really well done for getting the pen turned, excellent problem solving solutions that have been well explained. Thank you for sharing, all the best, Michael.
I want to thank you for posting this video. I have been thinking about moving from kit pens to kit-less pens. I like that you took the time to share your thought process and explain each step clearly. As for the length of the video, it seemed to be just about right. The only thing I was left wondering about was how to you add a clip to this pen and you have all ready answered that. Please keep your videos coming and never wonder about the length, only worry about showing each step clearly and gear it to the newbies like me. The more experienced folks may learn something or at least understand the why, and they would then have the opportunity to share their ideas with you as some have done so already. Again thanks
WOW AND I MEAN WOW, BOB you are the mad scientist of the pen world wow wow wow, thank you for sharing with us and cant wait for more...........................
Really nice job on the pen, especially your recovery after damaging the lid. Keep up the great videos. I'm a new turner and am learning a lot just watching.
For future reference to everyone out here looking, they make what are called bottoming taps that do not start out tapered for finishing the bottom of holes. It would be more expensive to buy one just for one pen, but having the tool in your toolbox would not be a bad thing. Good job on handling the situation with what was available.
Excellent video! Beautiful pen! As I was watching you trying to figure out the depth problem I kept saying "try it without the nib, try it without the nib!!". Fortunately it all worked out. Must commend you on the ability to keep your frustration under control....I guess having all those kids is good practice! 😁👍👍👍
Bob, Bob, Bob!! Amazing -- truly AH.MAY.ZING!!! With each of your videos I watch, I am increasingly impressed. I notice that some people have tried offering corrective advice about drilling holes. Well, I think the key point here is that you took whatever you had and worked through it all with a very thoughtful process. Even better, you carried us viewers along with you. Supremely well done, sir! Keep 'em coming! --Larry from Tupelo
Very good recovery! Love your and instructional videos . Keep up the great work. I been collecting the tooling for about 3 years. time to jump in with both feet.
Most anyone can make a pen, the test is when you have adversity and work through it. You did an awesome job working through it amd not giving up. Ima, definitely going to give this a try. I may leave my cap just a little long.. Awesome videos..
Great job, Bob. I’m chuckling because I had the same learning curve with many ‘drop back and punt’ moments. It makes us better turners, and yes, it is mentally challenging. But in the end, the results are beautiful!
Hello Bob, from an old engineer here in the UK, you should have clicked the collet into the nut, the nut has a ring inside the collet should be flush with the nut, it isn't, it is causing the mandrel runout, also when you started turning you effectively screwed the cap further onto the mandrel causing it to over tighten and then crack, the blank needs a stop.
The 80 grip gouge is the spur center's best friend! I've always wanted to make a fountain pen this way. I often look at the "masters of the Fountain Pen" series on youtube and wonder about all the tools they use. This is definitely a lot more accessible but I should probably sell a dip pen before I get into fountain pens lol. Thanks for the videos!
Thank you so much bob i really appreciate the effort and the work you do with Wood's is so much fascinating It is great to see that you are preserving the heritage of fountain pens and you're building the extraordinary piece of art
Beautiful pen and great job working through all the little issues. I will be making my first kitless pen in September at the Mid-OH Valley turners gathering! This really motivates me to make these pens!
Wow! Incredible work man! I watched the whole thing and really appreciate your problem solving and solutions throughout. You have the chucks and tooling of a machinist, and the cutters and thought process of a wood turner. What a beautiful pen.
Hi Bob Thanks for some great videos about kit less pen They are really great the pens you make kit less or with kits They have inspired me to start collecting the various tools that will be used to make kit less pens. Thanks for the great inspiration and the way you make your videos they are easy to follow for a novice like me the best regards Paw
Great job Bob. Glad you showed the mistakes and how you worked it out. I was afraid you going to snap the tap couple times. Sandpaper is your friend when Alumilite gets thin. I know video was little longer then normal but you a lot good info.
Thank you Ron, I like to show what really happens instead of cutting all that out and pretending everything is perfect. We all have issues sometimes, people need to know they can over come them. Regards, Bob
Bob it is coming out beautiful. I think the sign of a good turner is overcoming problems just as you did. By the way I've sharpened carbide cutters by turning them over on a CBN plate and cleaning and the top to make it flat.
WOW! What a bunch of work. Great looking pen. I've been working on a recorder for three days, ( a few other small things along the way). I can not get the air hole in tune with the eight finger holes. I had to make the second mouth piece for it this evening. Sometimes there are bumps in the road.
These are interesting Bob, looking forward to seeing more! I've been curious about the Nova Comet II in the background, I just got one for myself as an upgrade from my Harbor Freight mini lathe.
Anything you noticed that would be good to know? You've obviously been turning a lot longer than I've been dabbling and it'd be nice to get an opinion from someone who knows more than me! Thanks!
No worries about the video length IMO Bob, several knowledgeable woodworkers, (which I think pen making is a division of woodworking) have said, it's not IF you make a mistake, but how you deal with it when you DO! So great job recovering brother!!
Hey Bob.... Give me a call about your mandrel ... I spent 5 minutes yelling at the phone trying to tell you to drill in another 1/4" with the 7/16th but. Nice save. It's said the difference between a journeyman and master isn't the quality of work, but how well they recover from mistakes.
Great work and good recovery Bob.... Just a note. You can sharpen those carbide blades... Lay the flat side of the carbide cutter down an a diamond sharpener and just run the back and forth. It only takes about 5 mins.
RJBWoodTurner Thank you very much for the tools list, it is helpful. I was also wondering where you can find the pen components. I have watched several of your videos and admire your production style and quality. Keep it up and know it is appreciated.
what a beautiful blank. When it chipped out I thought of the old saying,, "Man makes plans and the GODS laugh." I guess you showed them. I notice you are using mineral oil on all your drilling. Is this new and you are going to do this from now on or is it this project only. I cut a lot of threds and drilling. I will be using this in the future. Great video, looking forward to #3.
The pen looks great. Thanks for showing the problems and not just the successes. The walls of the pen cap appear very thin and fragile. How do you think it will stand up to regular usage? Could the pens be made of materials such as wood?
Hello Jim, I’m gonna find the answer to how it holds up as it’s become my daily use pen. I’m curious about that too. The wood would have to be awfully stable otherwise it could move. I’ll be tasting that too, LOL. This much fun shouldn’t be legal. Regards, Bob
Hello Bob, I enjoy your videos very much and have learned a lot from them, I was noticing that you use a vaccum system on your lathe to catch the shavings, do you like the system and if so where do you get it? Is it worth the trouble to have one? Thank you for your advise and look forward to more videos.
Hello Gale, I do like this system. It doesn’t catch the chips but when I sand, all the fine dust is pulled into the vac. The dust port is from Rockler. Regards, Bob
Fantastic videos Bob, and thanks so much for the information you have uploaded in your series of kit less pens. The finished pen looks amazing, could you tell me where you got the blank from please? All the best Tony
Bob Excellent job !!!! I want to know what are all the Dies and tops that you would need from start to fishes. What are the sizes for the tops and dies and where did you purchase them. Thank you in advance. You do excellent work !!!
Really enjoyed the bespoke pen tutorials on youtube. It was great to see the many pitfalls that can happen and fantastic to watch the work around process. Thanks Have just started looking at bespoke pen turning. I want to work in wood where possible which I believe is problematic when adding threads because of the fragility. I have now been stabilizing my wooden pen blanks with cactus juice which made turning burls far easier. I was wondering if anyone has an idea if the stabilization process will allow me to tap and die with 'confidence', also what thread size might be best. I am using mainly Australian hardwoods. Also I believe that aluminite is a far better medium to work than resin for kitless pens? Many Thanks Denis Boarder Parkdale Victoria Australia
Here’s a link drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk You can save money on taps and dies if you start with single start instead of triple start.
This is a tough question to answer because I make small incremental changes every time I turn a pen. I feel like I get better with every one but thought about this question for a few days and couldn’t really come up with anything major. Regards, Bob
Ok every time I heard it creak when you screwed the cap on I held my breath thinking you were running out of full threads and you were about to snap the threads off the cap. :)
That mandrel wasn’t a little out. You should have put a dial indicator on it so we could see how much. Great looking pen sophisticated, is it going to have a clip on it?
Hi there, just starting my journey into pen making and are keen to make pens like you have shown in this video which has been so great. My question is I live in australia and would like to know if you can tell me what the closed end mandrel you use are, the ones with threads as well, then did you buy the applicable taps and dies to match the nibs and other components that are threaded. Thanks
Hello Peter, They can be purchased from Turnerswarehouse.com. I don’t recommend purchasing them. Aluminum or brass would be better. Using your taps and dies make your own mandrels. The ones you buy only work if you make one type of pen. Making your own you can custom make mandrels to the pen you are creating. The taps for the fountain pen nibs are custom to each nib type. You can also purchase those nibs and taps at Turners Warehouse. Here’s a link to their site: Regards, Bob
Great video Bob!! I’ve always learned a lot from each and every one of your presentations. I have gone the “kit route” for the last several years and now ready to jump to the Bespoke. A few questions... between your video 1 and 2 did you turn the nib assembly or did you use a prefabricated one. When you tested the fit of the cap to the body I noticed the nib was already there. Also not that I’m scared of tapping the acrylic threads, can you purchase metal tapped inserts to accommodate the internal diameters. Metal would seem to be more durable and no need to buy a metal lathe. Thank you.. Dr Bob
Hello Robert, I purchased the nib from FP Nibs. Tapping acrylic is super easy and nothing to be scared of. I don’t know of any metal inserts available but if someone is willing to purchase them then I’m sure someone will make and sell them. Regards, Bob
Thank you, That was an Alumilite blank cast by Jim Hinze, one of my kit less teachers. Wood moves quite a bit bit rest assured I will give it a try. I think with a C/A soak the threads would hold. Regards, Bob
Hi Bob impressive mate, if you where to put a small undercut at base of thread next to shoulder to just over thread depth before you threaded body it would have allowed cap to fully screw home
Bob because of the lead in on die you will never generate a full thread to shoulder i mainly metal turn we always undercut at shoulder and thread into it ,it then allows us to screw item right up to should .Great videos by the way spent many a happy hour watching you Regards Graham
Here’s a list of the items I use: drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk Shop around you’ll find better deals. Regards, Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thank you for sharing the list of tool! I am looking to get started into pen turning, and appreciate the knowledge you are imparting through your videos. Congrats on a great video.
Greetings I am a 100% disabled vet and I teach other vets how to turn pens and other things. I would love to know where you buy all the taps & dies and other things so I can learn how to make what you are doing before I teach them. thanks
This is where I purchased my tools when I made this video. drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk I haven’t kept up with all the companies since then but at least this will give you a good starting point. Regards, Bob
Hi Bob, don't know if this helps or not, most taps come in three piece sets a starter, secondary (not sure if that's the correct name) and a bottom tap. if you use a bottom tap after the starter you will get full threads at the bottom of the hole. Great video as always. If it's interesting everyone will watch no matter how long it is. Hope to meet you in September in Belpre.
Tom Barnes not really needed since these are not what I think are called blind or bottom threads. Also that is a very special and relatively triple start expensive tap. Can't think of buying 3 even if available. =:-O
Thank you Tom, I'm learning every day. At this point, I'm planning to be in Belpre. Hopefully the stars align and it happens. I'll look forward to meeting you too.Regards,Bob
It just lubricates and when drilling the bit stays cooler. Surprisingly it works. You can use it when drilling blanks on the drill press too. Regards, Bob
There is no kit, it’s kit less. Here is a link to a tool listing. drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk Regards, Bob
Hello Dennis, I still make them, I just haven’t had any shop time recently. I have been traveling for work and it looks to be fairly steady through the end of the year. Regards, Bob
Bob, I believe that some of your issues with the Bespoke pen cap were caused by the order in which you drilled the blank. After starting the drilling with a starter bit you then used a 7/16 inch (11.113mm) bit drilling a little over two inches into the blank. Next you used a 9/16 inch (14.288 mm) bit to drill approximately 1/8 inch into the blank. Lastly you used a 12mm Brad point bit to drill for the threads. This last bit did not drill straight into the blank since it had nothing to register the Brad point against to drill straight. I have watched the 12 mm drilling portion of the video multiple times and it appears to me that this last drill wanders off center toward the front of the lathe. When the blank was threaded the tap followed the off center hole, then when the blank was mounted on the mandrel the very end of the blank was subjected to lateral force which caused the fracture in the blank once it no longer had sufficient mass to resist the lateral force. I recommend the following sequence for drilling the next cap blank. I also recommend only using Brad point drill bits with the exception of the starter bit. Use the starter bit to drill just deep enough (1/16 inch) to provide a center point for the 9/16 inch bit. Drill approx 1/8 to 3/16 inch into the blank with the 9/16 inch bit for the desired overlap. Next, using the 12 mm bit, drill as far as desired to allow sufficient threads to be tapped and provide required clearance for the section. Lastly, using the 7/16 bit, drill any additional depth required to provide clearance for the nib. Drilling in this order insures that each successively smaller brad point bit has a center point in the blank to register against. Should help to align the drilled holes. One last thing, wait until the blank has been drilled and tapped to cut the blank to the desired cap length.
Thank you for all the great information. I do appreciate it. This is a learning experience for me and I’m enjoying all the great info being shared by more experienced Turner’s. Regards, Bob
Bob, I have two Beall collet chucks and the chuck caps of both have a special recess that the collet "locks" into. What this means is that you have to place the collet into the cap so that it "locks" before you insert that assembly into the chuck. You were not doing this. This can cause any mandrel inserted into the collet to not run true. I don't know if yours is a Beall, or works the same way. Look at the inside of the chuck cap. If it is not machined completely symmetrical, then this is likely your problem. Billy
Could you please make a pen with vaccume filling machanism and a feed made of wood & the cap with locks instead of threads similar as the visconti homosepians bronze age it would be the greatest work i would ever see
Hello Jitu, I am new to fountain pens so I have to admit that what you asked for is very specific and I at the moment do not know as much about them. This will require a great deal of research and learning on my part. I will do the research and see if I want to make a pen like this. Thank you for the suggestion. Regards, Bob
RJBWoodTurner take your time and gather all the information beause this could turn out to be the best fountain pen ever in the history the feed of the (stewart convey) the cap locking mechanism of (Visconti homosepian) and the vaccum filler of the vaccume filler of the (twisbi vac) & a soft flex nib makes you the ultimate artist thank you very much to acknowledge the suggestion's & i will be waiting for the most beautiful invention with a wooden piece of art as a great as an writing instrument of the history such pleasure have your reply take care
Now... Here's the fix.... Find a drill that's the same size as the outside diameter of the external thread.. Then drill out a couple of the first of the internal threads, so that the barrel will clear the un-threaded portion up to the shoulder.
I haven't had a chance to try one yet, but Pennstate Industries sells a closed end pen mandrel system which uses a rubber tube that expands when you tighten the end of the mandrel which holds the blank in place for turning. May be a better alternative than threading the blank and relying on that for turning operations. Use the chuck to hold the blank while you thread the blanks, then pull the chuck off and use the closed end pen mandrel system. www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMBL72.html
I have one of those Grabber mandrels. There ok, but you have to be careful not to put to much pressure or it will expand the tube and the components won’t fit. Don’t ask how I know. Regards, Bob
I am absolutely fascinated with your efforts. However, I think you are being much TOO frugal with the lengths of your blanks. Seems you should start long and then shorten to final length when all other steps are completed. It appears you are using a bottoming tap, which should not have much if any taper. You only need about a half inch of full thread. So the tightness is probably caused by not drilling deep enough with your tap drill. Anyway, keep'em coming and don't worry about the length of video. We'll stick with you :>) Three thumbs up.
Bob just want to say Thank You for all the wonderful videos it has helped me alot as I am just getting into turning. For your Carbide tips you can use a diamond stone to sharpen them. You lay the top part flat on a stone just to take a small amount off to get the edges sharp again. Have watched the tool guy at work do this many times. here is a link to the set I got to sharpen my DIY carbide tools when they need it. Thanks again!! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076C2478J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for showing the troubleshooting! It's always interesting to see people thinking through the issues when things go wrong, and a great role model for problemsolving too!
Thank you Andrea.
Regards,
Bob
Again, thank you for not cutting out the challenges to shorten the video. Seeing how an experienced turner deals with those challenges really helps noobs like myself to learn. Great video.
Thank you again.
I’m glad you found the video useful.
Regards,
Bob
Nice looking pen. Your experience really came through in turning a potential disaster into a great recovery and making a very good looking pen.
Thank you Harry, Truthfully, I wasn't sure what I would do. It was a real tense time for me. I'm really glad everything worked out.Regards,Bob
This is a work of beauty there man. I was actually planning on doing something similar when I stumbled upon your video and thank goodness I did because I would have screwed up royally if I didn't see your work. 😅
Thank you.
I appreciate your comments. I hope you take what I did and make it your own by using the good parts and improving everywhere else. That is the beauty of this type of pen, tons of artistic freedom.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, great way to work through the issues, that’s what makes us better!
Thank you Eric.
Regards,
Bob
Great result, perseverance paid off!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Bob,as usual,excellent informative video! Again,love the fact that you share we all human and make mistakes and share how you choose to correct them! And as usual,you are the MAN with pen making! You never cease to amaze me with your creativity! Eric from Ohio
Thank you Eric
I appreciate you comments.
Regards,
Bob
Loving the cap. And the thought process and save....well done ....
Thank you David.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, it's great how you saved the Cap. Good you did not have to waste that beautiful blank. At 23:10 you worry about the mandrel. As I stated on the first video, you need to fit the collar into the chuck nut first, before you insert your blank or mandrel. I'm pretty sure, if you try that, the mandrel will actually run true. Great work and you really got me into considering starting to buy stuff needed as well. Still need to see where I can get the tools here in Germany. The mandrels I perhaps also will have to make myself from cast blanks. I'm really looking forward to see more of these .... sooooo beautiful.
Thank the Jürgen,
I recorded this video the same time as the body. That’s why I hadn’t corrected the chuck yet. I will correct the chuck usage on the next one. Thank you for the great information.
Regards,
Bob
Really well done for getting the pen turned, excellent problem solving solutions that have been well explained. Thank you for sharing, all the best, Michael.
Thank you Michael.
Regards,
Bob
That was a close one . But you got a beautiful pen out of it . Really interesting process . Looking forward to seeing more of it . Take care .
Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
Lovely pen Bob. Beautiful blank, turned out great. As always, take care and stay safe
Thank you Val.
Regards,
Bob
I want to thank you for posting this video. I have been thinking about moving from kit pens to kit-less pens. I like that you took the time to share your thought process and explain each step clearly. As for the length of the video, it seemed to be just about right. The only thing I was left wondering about was how to you add a clip to this pen and you have all ready answered that. Please keep your videos coming and never wonder about the length, only worry about showing each step clearly and gear it to the newbies like me. The more experienced folks may learn something or at least understand the why, and they would then have the opportunity to share their ideas with you as some have done so already. Again thanks
Thank you Donald. I appreciate the input.
Regards,
Bob
WOW AND I MEAN WOW, BOB you are the mad scientist of the pen world wow wow wow, thank you for sharing with us and cant wait for more...........................
Thank you Rod.
Regards,
Bob
Really nice job on the pen, especially your recovery after damaging the lid. Keep up the great videos. I'm a new turner and am learning a lot just watching.
Thank you George.
Regards,
Bob
For future reference to everyone out here looking, they make what are called bottoming taps that do not start out tapered for finishing the bottom of holes. It would be more expensive to buy one just for one pen, but having the tool in your toolbox would not be a bad thing. Good job on handling the situation with what was available.
Thank you William.
Regards,
Bob
Excellent video! Beautiful pen! As I was watching you trying to figure out the depth problem I kept saying "try it without the nib, try it without the nib!!". Fortunately it all worked out.
Must commend you on the ability to keep your frustration under control....I guess having all those kids is good practice! 😁👍👍👍
LOL, I hope that’s what it is.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, Bob, Bob!! Amazing -- truly AH.MAY.ZING!!! With each of your videos I watch, I am increasingly impressed.
I notice that some people have tried offering corrective advice about drilling holes. Well, I think the key point here is that you took whatever you had and worked through it all with a very thoughtful process. Even better, you carried us viewers along with you.
Supremely well done, sir! Keep 'em coming!
--Larry from Tupelo
Thank you Larry.
Regards,
Bob
Awesome, Bob! I know I've said it before, but your perseverance is impressive. Good job! I can't wait for part 3!
Thank you Robert.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, many thanks for this video. You really do inspire to go and do it yourselves. Loved your problem solving during thus turn. Feeling inspired.
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Very good recovery! Love your and instructional videos . Keep up the great work. I been collecting the tooling for about 3 years. time to jump in with both feet.
Thank you Ken.
Regards,
Bob
Very nice work. I've never taken notes from a video before, but this is the second video of yours that I have.
Thank you, that’s quite a complement.
Regards,
Bob
Excellent job and nice save when the cap broke!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Most anyone can make a pen, the test is when you have adversity and work through it. You did an awesome job working through it amd not giving up. Ima, definitely going to give this a try. I may leave my cap just a little long.. Awesome videos..
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Great job, Bob. I’m chuckling because I had the same learning curve with many ‘drop back and punt’ moments. It makes us better turners, and yes, it is mentally challenging. But in the end, the results are beautiful!
Thank you Donna,
Regards,
Bob
Hello Bob, from an old engineer here in the UK, you should have clicked the collet into the nut, the nut has a ring inside the collet should be flush with the nut, it isn't, it is causing the mandrel runout, also when you started turning you effectively screwed the cap further onto the mandrel causing it to over tighten and then crack, the blank needs a stop.
Thank you Alfred.
Regards,
Bob.
Nice Bespoke pen Bob! we learned a lot from you,very helpful videos Thanks again!
Thank you Kwstas.
Regards,
Bob
The 80 grip gouge is the spur center's best friend! I've always wanted to make a fountain pen this way. I often look at the "masters of the Fountain Pen" series on youtube and wonder about all the tools they use. This is definitely a lot more accessible but I should probably sell a dip pen before I get into fountain pens lol. Thanks for the videos!
Thank you Colby.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you so much bob i really appreciate the effort and the work you do with Wood's is so much fascinating It is great to see that you are preserving the heritage of fountain pens and you're building the extraordinary piece of art
Thank you Jitu.
Regards,
Bob
Beautiful pen and great job working through all the little issues. I will be making my first kitless pen in September at the Mid-OH Valley turners gathering! This really motivates me to make these pens!
That’s great, be sure to say hello, I’ll be there all three days.
Regards,
Bob
Beautiful pen Bob. Great save!! Thanks for sharing
Thank you Scott.
Regards,
Bob
That is coming together nicely Bob!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Wow! Incredible work man! I watched the whole thing and really appreciate your problem solving and solutions throughout. You have the chucks and tooling of a machinist, and the cutters and thought process of a wood turner.
What a beautiful pen.
Thank you Nicholas.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob
Thanks for some great videos about kit less pen
They are really great the pens you make kit less or with kits
They have inspired me to start collecting the various tools that will be used to make kit less pens.
Thanks for the great inspiration and the way you make your videos they are easy to follow for a novice like me
the best regards Paw
Thank you Paw.
I appreciate the comment.
Regards,
Bob
Great job Bob. Glad you showed the mistakes and how you worked it out. I was afraid you going to snap the tap couple times. Sandpaper is your friend when Alumilite gets thin. I know video was little longer then normal but you a lot good info.
Thank you Christopher.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, great job, another very inspirational show. I just like the Conway Stewart FP. Very similar to what you have produced.
Thank you Yunus.
Regards,
Bob
Love the process and the correcting of mistakes!
Thank you Ron,
I like to show what really happens instead of cutting all that out and pretending everything is perfect. We all have issues sometimes, people need to know they can over come them.
Regards,
Bob
Nice job Bob nice save as well can't wait to see what you do next
Thank you Nigel.
Regards,
Bob
very very nice work RJ,.
Thank
You Courtney.
Regards,
Bob
Good save, well done!
Thank you Leon.
Regards,
Bob
Bob it is coming out beautiful. I think the sign of a good turner is overcoming problems just as you did. By the way I've sharpened carbide cutters by turning them over on a CBN plate and cleaning and the top to make it flat.
Thank you for the tip Mark,
There too pricey so I’m all about learning to sharpen them.
Regards,
Bob
Amazing vid! Hoping to learn how to create amazing pens like this myself
Thank you,
It is not hard to do as you can see by the video.
Regards,
Bob
WOW! What a bunch of work. Great looking pen. I've been working on a recorder for three days, ( a few other small things along the way). I can not get the air hole in tune with the eight finger holes. I had to make the second mouth piece for it this evening. Sometimes there are bumps in the road.
Keep after it Tarry, you’ll get it.
G'day from Downunder, Great Product & Video.!!
Thank you Geoff.
Regards,
Bob
These are interesting Bob, looking forward to seeing more! I've been curious about the Nova Comet II in the background, I just got one for myself as an upgrade from my Harbor Freight mini lathe.
Thank you Kasey,
That lathe belongs to Jim Zimmerman. He loaned it to me when my Turn Crafter was out of commission.
Anything you noticed that would be good to know? You've obviously been turning a lot longer than I've been dabbling and it'd be nice to get an opinion from someone who knows more than me! Thanks!
Very interesting. Great work Bob
Thank you Rob.
Regards,
Bob
No worries about the video length IMO Bob, several knowledgeable woodworkers, (which I think pen making is a division of woodworking) have said, it's not IF you make a mistake, but how you deal with it when you DO! So great job recovering brother!!
Thank you Don.
Regards,
Bob
Bob I made mine from a small pcs. of Lignum Vite which they work just great thanks for the ideal, that is for the lathe pen press.
Thank you Ronald,
You’re welcome for the press.
Regards,
Bob
That was some beast mode turning there, love it! Gotta tell you, this looks like a lot of fun, hope to do this sometime! :~)
Thank you Bill,
It truly is fun.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for sharing. Really appreciate it for sharing this knowledge. 😃
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Hey Bob.... Give me a call about your mandrel ...
I spent 5 minutes yelling at the phone trying to tell you to drill in another 1/4" with the 7/16th but.
Nice save. It's said the difference between a journeyman and master isn't the quality of work, but how well they recover from mistakes.
Thank you Jim,
I truly appreciate your comment and encouragement. I learned from the best.
Regards,
Bob
I learned a lot with you, thank you for doing this. Very helpful. You made the mistakes for me. Not to say I have ever destroyed a pen!
LOL, neither have I, Wink, Wink.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks my online teacher
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
men your videos are amazing!! thanks a lot for explainin gooo well 😊
Thank you Ernest.
Regards,
Bob
Nice save my friend.
Thank you Lynn.
Regards,
Bob
Great work and good recovery Bob.... Just a note. You can sharpen those carbide blades... Lay the flat
side of the carbide cutter down an a diamond sharpener and just run the back and forth. It only takes about 5 mins.
Thank you Dave,
I’m going to fry that. I screwed This one up trying to sharpen it on the CBN wheel, LOL.
Regards,
Bob
That wont work as you have found out. It is more like sharpening a blank squaring cutter,
Just dress the flat side.
I will on the new one. Gonna pick one up at the Woodworking show next weekend.
Regards,
Bob
Great job troubleshooting!
Thank you.
Regards
Bob
Nice looking pen so far.
Where do you get the equipment (tap, die, mandrel, etc.) and pen components?
Thank you.
Bespoke Tool Listing Document:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wMrznNd2OKRvOp6BCc2DAb_LdoiqeZYi?usp=sharing
RJBWoodTurner Thank you very much for the tools list, it is helpful. I was also wondering where you can find the pen components.
I have watched several of your videos and admire your production style and quality. Keep it up and know it is appreciated.
Thank you. www.fpnibs.com sells the nibs and converters.
Regards,
Bob
what a beautiful blank. When it chipped out I thought of the old saying,, "Man makes plans and the GODS laugh." I guess you showed them. I notice you are using mineral oil on all your drilling. Is this new and you are going to do this from now on or is it this project only. I cut a lot of threds and drilling. I will be using this in the future. Great video, looking forward to #3.
The MO just provides some lubricant and helps with heat. Canola, Pam, or WD-40 work just as well.
Regards,
Bob
The pen looks great. Thanks for showing the problems and not just the successes. The walls of the pen cap appear very thin and fragile. How do you think it will stand up to regular usage? Could the pens be made of materials such as wood?
Hello Jim,
I’m gonna find the answer to how it holds up as it’s become my daily use pen. I’m curious about that too.
The wood would have to be awfully stable otherwise it could move. I’ll be tasting that too, LOL. This much fun shouldn’t be legal.
Regards,
Bob
Hello Bob, I enjoy your videos very much and have learned a lot from them, I was noticing that you use a vaccum system on your lathe to catch the shavings, do you like the system and if so where do you get it? Is it worth the trouble to have one? Thank you for your advise and look forward to more videos.
Hello Gale,
I do like this system. It doesn’t catch the chips but when I sand, all the fine dust is pulled into the vac. The dust port is from Rockler.
Regards,
Bob
Fantastic videos Bob, and thanks so much for the information you have uploaded in your series of kit less pens. The finished pen looks amazing, could you tell me where you got the blank from please?
All the best
Tony
Thank you Tony,
That blank was sent to me by Jim Hinze of Hinze pens.
Regards,
Bob
Bob Excellent job !!!! I want to know what are all the Dies and tops that you would need from start to fishes. What are the sizes for the tops and dies and where did you purchase them. Thank you in advance. You do excellent work !!!
Here’s a link you a list on my Google drive.
Regards,
Bob
Really enjoyed the bespoke pen tutorials on youtube. It was great to see the many pitfalls that can happen and fantastic to watch the work around process.
Thanks
Have just started looking at bespoke pen turning. I want to work in wood where possible which I believe is problematic when adding threads because of the fragility. I have now been stabilizing my wooden pen blanks with cactus juice which made turning burls far easier. I was wondering if anyone has an idea if the stabilization process will allow me to tap and die with 'confidence', also what thread size might be best. I am using mainly Australian hardwoods.
Also I believe that aluminite is a far better medium to work than resin for kitless pens?
Many Thanks
Denis Boarder
Parkdale
Victoria
Australia
Hello Denis,
I replied to your email and answered your questions.
Regards,
Bob
superb craftsmen ship,perfect.
Thank you Courtney.
Regards,
Bob
I enjoyed your video and the pen look really good Thanks
Thank you Charles.
Regards,
Bob
I watched this 3 part series, question about the extra tools. Where is the best place to look for the tools?
Here’s a link list I made to the tools. I haven’t updated it in a while but I believe it’s still fairly accurate.
Regards,
Bob
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
So what would be the bare minimum items to make a couple of pens? Great video by the way
Here’s a link
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
You can save money on taps and dies if you start with single start instead of triple start.
Hi, what lessons did you learn that you would change from then til now? Thank you.
This is a tough question to answer because I make small incremental changes every time I turn a pen. I feel like I get better with every one but thought about this question for a few days and couldn’t really come up with anything major.
Regards,
Bob
On the male end did you cut a little groove next the shoulder? Seems like you would have to since full threads don't go all the way up to it
Hello Cliff, I did cut a relief on the body before threading it. Regards,Bob
Ok every time I heard it creak when you screwed the cap on I held my breath thinking you were running out of full threads and you were about to snap the threads off the cap. :)
I may not have cut it deep enough, I was being pretty cautious.
Regards,
Bob
Maybe try to under cut the opening on the cap. Th die did not thread all the way up to the body so the cap can't seat against the body.
That mandrel wasn’t a little out. You should have put a dial indicator on it so we could see how much. Great looking pen sophisticated, is it going to have a clip on it?
This one won’t but future pens will. I need more taps and dies for that.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner I was also wondering does the cap go on the other end when you writing?
This one does post.
Yes, it is postable.
Regards,
Bob
Hi there, just starting my journey into pen making and are keen to make pens like you have shown in this video which has been so great. My question is I live in australia and would like to know if you can tell me what the closed end mandrel you use are, the ones with threads as well, then did you buy the applicable taps and dies to match the nibs and other components that are threaded. Thanks
Hello Peter,
They can be purchased from Turnerswarehouse.com. I don’t recommend purchasing them. Aluminum or brass would be better. Using your taps and dies make your own mandrels. The ones you buy only work if you make one type of pen. Making your own you can custom make mandrels to the pen you are creating.
The taps for the fountain pen nibs are custom to each nib type. You can also purchase those nibs and taps at Turners Warehouse. Here’s a link to their site:
Regards,
Bob
www.turnerswarehouse.com/?ref=8zgq7wolkt-
I forgot the link.
Regards,
Bob
Bob what is your resources for the nibs and nib holder?
Www.fpnibs.com
nice Bob
Thank you Jimmie.
Regards,
Bob
Great video Bob!! I’ve always learned a lot from each and every one of your presentations. I have gone the “kit route” for the last several years and now ready to jump to the Bespoke. A few questions... between your video 1 and 2 did you turn the nib assembly or did you use a prefabricated one. When you tested the fit of the cap to the body I noticed the nib was already there. Also not that I’m scared of tapping the acrylic threads, can you purchase metal tapped inserts to accommodate the internal diameters. Metal would seem to be more durable and no need to buy a metal lathe. Thank you.. Dr Bob
Hello Robert,
I purchased the nib from FP Nibs.
Tapping acrylic is super easy and nothing to be scared of.
I don’t know of any metal inserts available but if someone is willing to purchase them then I’m sure someone will make and sell them.
Regards,
Bob
That is a pretty blank, what is it? PSI copper or molten metal? What is the possibility of doing a hard wood? Would the threads hold up, do you think?
Thank you,
That was an Alumilite blank cast by Jim Hinze, one of my kit less teachers.
Wood moves quite a bit bit rest assured I will give it a try.
I think with a C/A soak the threads would hold.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob impressive mate, if you where to put a small undercut at base of thread next to shoulder to just over thread depth before you threaded body it would have allowed cap to fully screw home
Thank you Graham,
I appreciate the tip. This is only my third bespoke pen so I’m still learning.
Regards,
Bob
Bob because of the lead in on die you will never generate a full thread to shoulder i mainly metal turn we always undercut at shoulder and thread into it ,it then allows us to screw item right up to should .Great videos by the way spent many a happy hour watching you
Regards
Graham
Thank you so much Graham.
Regards,
Bob
That is spot one about the recess Bob, I learned it on threading for some cremation urns I've made!
The sort of pen I want to make. Where do I start?
Here’s a list of the items I use:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Shop around you’ll find better deals.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thank you for sharing the list of tool! I am looking to get started into pen turning, and appreciate the knowledge you are imparting through your videos. Congrats on a great video.
Greetings
I am a 100% disabled vet and I teach other vets how to turn pens and other things. I would love to know where you buy all the taps & dies and other things so I can learn how to make what you are doing before I teach them. thanks
This is where I purchased my tools when I made this video.
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
I haven’t kept up with all the companies since then but at least this will give you a good starting point.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, don't know if this helps or not, most taps come in three piece sets a starter, secondary (not sure if that's the correct name) and a bottom tap. if you use a bottom tap after the starter you will get full threads at the bottom of the hole. Great video as always. If it's interesting everyone will watch no matter how long it is. Hope to meet you in September in Belpre.
Tom Barnes not really needed since these are not what I think are called blind or bottom threads. Also that is a very special and relatively triple start expensive tap. Can't think of buying 3 even if available. =:-O
Thank you Tom, I'm learning every day. At this point, I'm planning to be in Belpre. Hopefully the stars align and it happens. I'll look forward to meeting you too.Regards,Bob
Maybe a silly question, but what's the deal with the mineral oil? Cooling?
It just lubricates and when drilling the bit stays cooler. Surprisingly it works. You can use it when drilling blanks on the drill press too.
Regards,
Bob
Do you have any type of list or a kit for making this pen
There is no kit, it’s kit less. Here is a link to a tool listing.
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
Regards,
Bob
That is a beautiful pen. Do you sell your pens?
Thank you Theresa,
I do not sell pens, trying to keep this a hobby.😃
Regards,
Bob
Are you still making Bespoke Pens, have not seen any recent videos on them from you.
Hello Dennis,
I still make them, I just haven’t had any shop time recently. I have been traveling for work and it looks to be fairly steady through the end of the year.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, I believe that some of your issues with the Bespoke pen cap were caused by the order in which you drilled the blank. After starting the drilling with a starter bit you then used a 7/16 inch (11.113mm) bit drilling a little over two inches into the blank. Next you used a 9/16 inch (14.288 mm) bit to drill approximately 1/8 inch into the blank. Lastly you used a 12mm Brad point bit to drill for the threads. This last bit did not drill straight into the blank since it had nothing to register the Brad point against to drill straight. I have watched the 12 mm drilling portion of the video multiple times and it appears to me that this last drill wanders off center toward the front of the lathe.
When the blank was threaded the tap followed the off center hole, then when the blank was mounted on the mandrel the very end of the blank was subjected to lateral force which caused the fracture in the blank once it no longer had sufficient mass to resist the lateral force.
I recommend the following sequence for drilling the next cap blank. I also recommend only using Brad point drill bits with the exception of the starter bit. Use the starter bit to drill just deep enough (1/16 inch) to provide a center point for the 9/16 inch bit. Drill approx 1/8 to 3/16 inch into the blank with the 9/16 inch bit for the desired overlap. Next, using the 12 mm bit, drill as far as desired to allow sufficient threads to be tapped and provide required clearance for the section. Lastly, using the 7/16 bit, drill any additional depth required to provide clearance for the nib. Drilling in this order insures that each successively smaller brad point bit has a center point in the blank to register against. Should help to align the drilled holes.
One last thing, wait until the blank has been drilled and tapped to cut the blank to the desired cap length.
Thank you for all the great information. I do appreciate it. This is a learning experience for me and I’m enjoying all the great info being shared by more experienced Turner’s.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, I have two Beall collet chucks and the chuck caps of both have a special recess that the collet "locks" into. What this means is that you have to place the collet into the cap so that it "locks" before you insert that assembly into the chuck. You were not doing this. This can cause any mandrel inserted into the collet to not run true. I don't know if yours is a Beall, or works the same way. Look at the inside of the chuck cap. If it is not machined completely symmetrical, then this is likely your problem.
Billy
Thank you Billy.Regards,Bob
I like your mandrel solution!
Could you please make a pen with vaccume filling machanism and a feed made of wood & the cap with locks instead of threads similar as the visconti homosepians bronze age it would be the greatest work i would ever see
Hello Jitu, I am new to fountain pens so I have to admit that what you asked for is very specific and I at the moment do not know as much about them. This will require a great deal of research and learning on my part. I will do the research and see if I want to make a pen like this. Thank you for the suggestion.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner take your time and gather all the information beause this could turn out to be the best fountain pen ever in the history the feed of the (stewart convey) the cap locking mechanism of (Visconti homosepian) and the vaccum filler of the vaccume filler of the (twisbi vac) & a soft flex nib makes you the ultimate artist thank you very much to acknowledge the suggestion's & i will be waiting for the most beautiful invention with a wooden piece of art as a great as an writing instrument of the history such pleasure have your reply take care
Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
The problem isn't with the internal threads... The external threads on the pen part don't extend far back enough.
Thank you Frank,
That’s only my third pen, I’m learning every day. I’ll take the shoulder back a little farther on the next one.
Regards,
Bob
No... You're not understanding... It's not the shoulder... The threads have to be machined CLOSER TO the shoulder.
Ohhhh, I get it. Sorry, sometimes I’m a little hard headed.
Bob
Now... Here's the fix.... Find a drill that's the same size as the outside diameter of the external thread.. Then drill out a couple of the first of the internal threads, so that the barrel will clear the un-threaded portion up to the shoulder.
Thank you Frank,
I hope to make a pen this weekend and I’ll employ this technique.
Regards,
Bob
thank you very much
😃
Do you produce the nib too?
Not yet but I hope to learn
Regards,
Bob
Thank you. I am sure you will be sharing with us that knowledge. Best wishes. Cesar.
I haven't had a chance to try one yet, but Pennstate Industries sells a closed end pen mandrel system which uses a rubber tube that expands when you tighten the end of the mandrel which holds the blank in place for turning. May be a better alternative than threading the blank and relying on that for turning operations. Use the chuck to hold the blank while you thread the blanks, then pull the chuck off and use the closed end pen mandrel system. www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMBL72.html
I have one of those Grabber mandrels. There ok, but you have to be careful not to put to much pressure or it will expand the tube and the components won’t fit. Don’t ask how I know.
Regards,
Bob
I am absolutely fascinated with your efforts. However, I think you are being much TOO frugal with the lengths of your blanks. Seems you should start long and then shorten to final length when all other steps are completed. It appears you are using a bottoming tap, which should not have much if any taper. You only need about a half inch of full thread. So the tightness is probably caused by not drilling deep enough with your tap drill. Anyway, keep'em coming and don't worry about the length of video. We'll stick with you :>) Three thumbs up.
Thank you Steve,
I appreciate the advise too. I’m learning every day.
Regards,
Bob
I think you put too many threads on the top of that shaft not going to look very good in the sunlight
Thank you.
Bob just want to say Thank You for all the wonderful videos it has helped me alot as I am just getting into turning. For your Carbide tips you can use a diamond stone to sharpen them. You lay the top part flat on a stone just to take a small amount off to get the edges sharp again. Have watched the tool guy at work do this many times. here is a link to the set I got to sharpen my DIY carbide tools when they need it. Thanks again!! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076C2478J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you Brandon,
I’ll give that a try. I’m always looking to save money and cutters are expensive.
Regards,
Bob