Just got one for a deck build next week. Looking forward to it. I have the same drill press as you. Mine is an old one passed down to me from my Dad. Thought it was a lonley relic! Cheers!
Just finished my deck and used this system The hidden screw look is worth the extra effort. Make sure the wood is fairly; true as the very small head won't pull a crooked board tight or straight. Highly recommended.
Put wood on my deck with this - worked great. BUT now I need to remove a couple boards to replace them and i ma having all kinds of trouble getting the screws out.
Doing my deck with these was satisfying and the tool works as promised. My only regret is using the the cheaper kit version which only lets you set up one screw from one side instead of two from either side like the pro version. The pro clamping system also appears to be better and the overall build is substantially better. It’s well worth the extra money to get the pro version.
I used the Camo deck fastener on my back porch floor and steps. Very easy to use. After I was finished, my wife asked me when was I going to nail the boards down. Told her that they were already screwed down. She was so used to the old nails always coming up and possibly hurting the grandkids. I redid my porch over two and half years ago and not a single screw has ever come out or up. Made quick work of screwing the boards in place.
You say 2 years ago?still holds great?i feel like it would be inferior ta top screws?guess its just 2 new fer my taste,but ima give it a shot i spose....
This tool is excellent. The screws are hidden from sight, safe for bare foot and they look so much cleaner. I would recommend having a small crow bar and 2x4 handy for boards that are bent. The crow bar to open up tight gaps and the 2x4 to get the boards tight. Work from the middle of the board outwards as this is much easier than starting at one end. The tool will take more time, but the finished look is top notch!
These screws are awful if you make a mistake and try to take them out. Run the drill in reverse to try and remove one and they will pull out of the bottom piece of wood but suck themselves deeper into the top piece sometimes. They are a nightmare to get out
@@nzrockdj Not everything is user error - need to remove a length of deck for any reason, such as repairing a joist? You will have the same issue described by B Dogg.
It's the screws that are design not to split the planks because they are self boaring screws. It's nothing new you can use them without a guide once you get the hang of it.
We are using this tool on a project for our architecture studio and we have two concerns that you may be able to answer. 1: the holes are quite visible, not so hidden, so would we have to fill in every one if we want the clean? 2: the screw and bit leave marks on the opposite boards, is there a standard routed edge for these to be clean?
Couple of questions? Can I easily remove a board if it is damaged overtime due to exposure etc and simply just replace again??? and are the screws removable after the boards have been coated with an oil or water base sealer?
The screws are somewhat tedious to remove, and will pull up the board with them. If you're using treated decking or cedar, it is very difficult to find the screw heads, but much easier for composite or Azek boards.
I just pulled up treated 5/4 “ boards I layed down a couple years ago. Just pry them off with a crowbar, the screw heads pull through fairly easy. Then just reverse the screws out.
Scott Biggs you should be avoiding butt joints when possible. Water gets trapped between the two boards and the joist promoting rot. Plus minimal room to screw down with two boards meeting at one joist increases the likely hood of boards splitting. Instead add in a stringer at each butt joint (if necessary) and allow for boards to slightly over hang. and any boards against a wall should have at least some gap.
I wouldn't recommend it on merbau deck and hardwood joists. The tool is Tough having been crow barred off screws that haven't gone all the way in. In a pack of 700 screws you only get 2 bits!!!!! In Australia the jig is $140 the screws $125 a box of 700. I needed 2 boxes and used about 1300 total. How on earth can one bit screw in 350 screws. The bits in Australia can be purchased at 10 bux a piece!!!! Each box needs about 5 bits for hardwood. Otherwise the tip dulls and doesn't engage the screw well in the last 5mm of insertion into timber. Maddening. Cut off wheel etc sorts it but it shouldn't be like this. The finished result is really nice but I think it only works 70 percent the way it ought to. Maybe it's just no good on hard timbers. Oh yeah..... Its a really slow process and clamping deck boards up tight to eliminate even slight bends has to be done awkwardly compared to clamping straight boards that have screws in the top. Anyway I don't want to be too unkind about the camo system since I am probably using it at the extremes of its application envelope. Softer timbers should be easy. I notice in the US prices fiur the jig and screws are between half and a third of what we pay here. Australia is seriously a rip off in this way. Anyway good luck to all who try this method.
Just a question, did you pre drill the holes? Didn't see you mention anything regarding that. I've read it's recommended to pre drill the holes on hardwood with these type of tools (Camo, Essve HDS etc). Don't know if that's why your screws are not going all the way down and putting extra load/wear on your drillbit though, just a thought.
Per Bjarte Pedersen you should be leaving a slight gap close to a wall/house to allow for dirt/debris to fall through, but if even then you don’t have enough room you can simply top screw. That’s what I did on the outer boards as I have an inch overhang on my deck
Love mine to bits! I noticed that you had the "front" or aiming end, pointed away from the boards that have already been laid. Plus inserting the nail at the front end first. Would this be becuse the "other" way around, pointing at the already finished section, lets the boards slip and increase the gap size? Good video. Much easier to follow that the written word. Who reads the instructions properly the first time anyway!
Evan Staite it does take quite a bit longer but in my opinion it's worth it, no worry about nails or screws sticking up everything's recessed and looks great.
I bought one last week and for the steep price of $50 it should include a driver. Apparently you have to purchase it separately. I went back to Lowe's looking for the driver and they didn't have it. I had to drive back home to pick up the tool to return it and get my money back. Not to mention the overpriced proprietary screws you have to buy. Bought some deck mate screws and will be fastening it the traditional way.
yeah, lol. As long as you're looking straight down at the deck at 90° you won't see the screws, but at any angle you'll see little dark dots everywhere
@@traumarnri 1: If you read what I wrote. "Marketing movie, not an objective review, if that's what you're after. I was very disappointed." Do you need details as to why that is my opinion? 2. The idea of this system in itself is not bad. It's just not good enough for me so I'll stick to the ordinary screws and use plugs for good looks. Lots of work, but I don't mind. In my opinion, there are three problems with the Camo system: You need more distance between the boards when mounting than with ordinary screws. I don't care for the still visible holes on the edges of the board. And finally, you still need ordinary screws on the outermost boards anyway. And these are important factors to me.
@@stenmoeller Thanks Sten. I rely on experienced guys like yourself for feedback on these "best ever" new systems. I appreciate you returning my comment! Strong work, thanks, tk
One of the most absurd tools. It has no use. It only serves to place a screw at an angle. A task that in 6 screws you learn to do without the help of tools like this one.
It’s designed to make things quicker and more precise. Of course you can do this by hand without the jig but that’s what jigs are for! To speed up the process and provide consistent precision.
Thanks for showing what it looks like after the screw is seated. This is the most important part and you nailed it, thx!
No--he screwed it
This tool is the best thing ever made. I’m using it now on my trex and it looks beautiful with no nails showing. Who ever designed this is genius
If it's as brilliant as You say Festool will buy it so must buy before the price is doubled
Finally, someone who put up a training video that demonstrated the tools and components so it's easy to see how it works. Thank you!
Just got one for a deck build next week. Looking forward to it.
I have the same drill press as you. Mine is an old one passed down to me from my Dad. Thought it was a lonley relic!
Cheers!
Just finished my deck and used this system The hidden screw look is worth the extra effort. Make sure the wood is fairly; true as the very small head won't pull a crooked board tight or straight. Highly recommended.
Hi Anthony, Is that deck system still holding up good? jm
Put wood on my deck with this - worked great. BUT now I need to remove a couple boards to replace them and i ma having all kinds of trouble getting the screws out.
I used this as well. You really need to make sure it is 100% flat down on both sides or you ll have visible screw holes.
Kreg makes a jig system similar The screw goes in a little further down the shoulder
Doing my deck with these was satisfying and the tool works as promised. My only regret is using the the cheaper kit version which only lets you set up one screw from one side instead of two from either side like the pro version. The pro clamping system also appears to be better and the overall build is substantially better. It’s well worth the extra money to get the pro version.
I used the Camo deck fastener on my back porch floor and steps. Very easy to use. After I was finished, my wife asked me when was I going to nail the boards down. Told her that they were already screwed down. She was so used to the old nails always coming up and possibly hurting the grandkids. I redid my porch over two and half years ago and not a single screw has ever come out or up. Made quick work of screwing the boards in place.
You say 2 years ago?still holds great?i feel like it would be inferior ta top screws?guess its just 2 new fer my taste,but ima give it a shot i spose....
@@ahilbilyredneksopinion the way the screws are designed, they have not come out yet
This tool is excellent. The screws are hidden from sight, safe for bare foot and they look so much cleaner.
I would recommend having a small crow bar and 2x4 handy for boards that are bent. The crow bar to open up tight gaps and the 2x4 to get the boards tight. Work from the middle of the board outwards as this is much easier than starting at one end.
The tool will take more time, but the finished look is top notch!
I have kinda read or heard that face attachment is much better for cupping etc, or maybe stronger. If so, is the difference really a big deal?
These screws are awful if you make a mistake and try to take them out. Run the drill in reverse to try and remove one and they will pull out of the bottom piece of wood but suck themselves deeper into the top piece sometimes. They are a nightmare to get out
@@nzrockdj Bad mouthing someone giving constructive criticism about a product we are considering buying .. what a douche
@@nzrockdj Not everything is user error - need to remove a length of deck for any reason, such as repairing a joist? You will have the same issue described by B Dogg.
dually noted, removing a board with ease would be my priority, thank you
"It's a poor tradesman who blames his tools". Old adage.
Thought this would split the board, but glad they designed that it out.
It's the screws that are design not to split the planks because they are self boaring screws. It's nothing new you can use them without a guide once you get the hang of it.
We are using this tool on a project for our architecture studio and we have two concerns that you may be able to answer. 1: the holes are quite visible, not so hidden, so would we have to fill in every one if we want the clean? 2: the screw and bit leave marks on the opposite boards, is there a standard routed edge for these to be clean?
hidden fastener systems would be more appropriate for architectural specific solution.
Yes, I have the same experience. Oposite site is dirty from the screw. There is black stamp. It is not so easy to take the screws out.
Still one question. Is the distance between the boards 1,6mm enough? Especialy for outside, like terrace, for example...
@@MacAtsch Just use deck spacers if you want a bigger gap personally I agree with you for an outside deck you need that gap.
I’m looking to use this on ultra hard wood and I’m curious how hard it may be to run a predilection bit through the tool first?
They look nice, but they are hard to remove if you need to service the deck in the future
Couple of questions? Can I easily remove a board if it is damaged overtime due to exposure etc and simply just replace again??? and are the screws removable after the boards have been coated with an oil or water base sealer?
The screws are somewhat tedious to remove, and will pull up the board with them. If you're using treated decking or cedar, it is very difficult to find the screw heads, but much easier for composite or Azek boards.
I just pulled up treated 5/4 “ boards I layed down a couple years ago. Just pry them off with a crowbar, the screw heads pull through fairly easy. Then just reverse the screws out.
Thanks for the video, I have never seen these devices before.
I use this product on my decks now! It works awesome! I made a couple videos on it also!
This companies web site has a board straightener bar. Use it to close your gaps as you install
If you start with a board that is close to the wall, what do you do then? As I understand you can't use the tool or?
face fasten with a trim head screw, or dap some PL underneath..
What do you need to change a wooden bar?
Would this tool work with a 2x4?
I heard it's expensive compared normal screws and tends to split the wood, is this true?
No. Price difference is negligible. Splits less than normal deck screws.
It does work great but unfortunately you can not use it along a wall.
What about butt joints and boards that are up against walls? It looks like there would be room to use this jig for those cases.
Scott Biggs you should be avoiding butt joints when possible. Water gets trapped between the two boards and the joist promoting rot. Plus minimal room to screw down with two boards meeting at one joist increases the likely hood of boards splitting. Instead add in a stringer at each butt joint (if necessary) and allow for boards to slightly over hang.
and any boards against a wall should have at least some gap.
Is this for only one size board? If so, how wide is each board?
Think I saw/read somewhere that the pro tool is adjustable for board width.. But don't quote me on that :)
@@teammurdoch thanks for the reply
I wouldn't recommend it on merbau deck and hardwood joists. The tool is Tough having been crow barred off screws that haven't gone all the way in. In a pack of 700 screws you only get 2 bits!!!!! In Australia the jig is $140 the screws $125 a box of 700. I needed 2 boxes and used about 1300 total. How on earth can one bit screw in 350 screws. The bits in Australia can be purchased at 10 bux a piece!!!! Each box needs about 5 bits for hardwood. Otherwise the tip dulls and doesn't engage the screw well in the last 5mm of insertion into timber. Maddening. Cut off wheel etc sorts it but it shouldn't be like this.
The finished result is really nice but I think it only works 70 percent the way it ought to.
Maybe it's just no good on hard timbers. Oh yeah..... Its a really slow process and clamping deck boards up tight to eliminate even slight bends has to be done awkwardly compared to clamping straight boards that have screws in the top.
Anyway I don't want to be too unkind about the camo system since I am probably using it at the extremes of its application envelope. Softer timbers should be easy.
I notice in the US prices fiur the jig and screws are between half and a third of what we pay here. Australia is seriously a rip off in this way.
Anyway good luck to all who try this method.
was almost decided to get this for my DIY alfresco deck.. now seriously having second thoughts.
Excellent analysis for Australian conditions.. Thanks
Just a question, did you pre drill the holes? Didn't see you mention anything regarding that. I've read it's recommended to pre drill the holes on hardwood with these type of tools (Camo, Essve HDS etc). Don't know if that's why your screws are not going all the way down and putting extra load/wear on your drillbit though, just a thought.
How do you remove boards later on when they need replacing?
Just pry them off. The screw pull through the board then you can easily find them to reverse them out.
you simply reverse the drill and they will come out according to their website
Does it leave enough gap for the timber to expand with the wet weather?
Nope
Andrew purcell more than enough gap. Honestly think it’s too much as boards definitely shrink after install
@@markkean4614 you probably had a high moisture content when installing then the boards dried out and bigger gaps developed.
Im gonna give it a try on teo small decks i have to build next week!
Dosent hold as good a good old decking screws
nz rockdj might look like shit but they work. The other screws look "ok" but don't hold for shit
@@jakobshinn3032 If you don't care what it looks like, use lag screws.
What about when u coms to the end and are close to a wall, how do u get in the screw close to the wall ?
Per Bjarte Pedersen you should be leaving a slight gap close to a wall/house to allow for dirt/debris to fall through, but if even then you don’t have enough room you can simply top screw. That’s what I did on the outer boards as I have an inch overhang on my deck
Per Bjarte Pedersen screw down through the top and let the J Channel cover the screws.
Make a pilot hole with a drill at an angle towards the ledger board to get it started.
How do I fasten the first board right by the house is I can only reach one side of the board? Do i just screw one side?
The first course needs to be face screwed. Use CoreTex color matched screws for that one board. That's the only drawback but not a big deal.
It seems ta me like there is just not enuff bite on the edge like that,feel like it's gunna fail and split faster with just edge screwin....
It's a tighter hold than face screwing.
Love mine to bits!
I noticed that you had the "front" or aiming end, pointed away from the boards that have already been laid. Plus inserting the nail at the front end first.
Would this be becuse the "other" way around, pointing at the already finished section, lets the boards slip and increase the gap size?
Good video. Much easier to follow that the written word. Who reads the instructions properly the first time anyway!
I saw this used in a Wild Wonderful Off Grid You Tube video
how much slower is it to use this tool compared to just face screwing?
Evan Staite it does take quite a bit longer but in my opinion it's worth it, no worry about nails or screws sticking up everything's recessed and looks great.
you get board spacing and screwing in one step. no need to worry about the alignment of screw heads on top
Heck yeah! This is epic
Couldn't those holes be filled and sanded before the deck was sealed?
sawdust and waterproof wood glue might do it
I bought one last week and for the steep price of $50 it should include a driver. Apparently you have to purchase it separately. I went back to Lowe's looking for the driver and they didn't have it. I had to drive back home to pick up the tool to return it and get my money back. Not to mention the overpriced proprietary screws you have to buy. Bought some deck mate screws and will be fastening it the traditional way.
Don't you get a driver in each pack of screws?
The driver comes with the screws
Tool is good but it takes way to much time
Barely noticeable? OMG those stick out like a sore thumb!
yeah, lol. As long as you're looking straight down at the deck at 90° you won't see the screws, but at any angle you'll see little dark dots everywhere
What do you think nails are classic screws look?
In real life on green wood the hole pretty much cover the screw home. He showed like the absolute worst case
Nice tool
Marketing movie, not an objective review, if that's what you're after. I was very disappointed.
@Sten : Is that it?, you are disappointed, so??? Suggest a better system!
@@traumarnri 1: If you read what I wrote. "Marketing movie, not an objective review, if that's what you're after. I was very disappointed." Do you need details as to why that is my opinion? 2. The idea of this system in itself is not bad. It's just not good enough for me so I'll stick to the ordinary screws and use plugs for good looks. Lots of work, but I don't mind. In my opinion, there are three problems with the Camo system: You need more distance between the boards when mounting than with ordinary screws. I don't care for the still visible holes on the edges of the board. And finally, you still need ordinary screws on the outermost boards anyway. And these are important factors to me.
@@stenmoeller Thanks Sten. I rely on experienced guys like yourself for feedback on these "best ever" new systems. I appreciate you returning my comment! Strong work, thanks, tk
I've been installing decks for 18 years and have used this system on two decks i have built .I'm not impressed
TheAdewill I'm a carpenter and I was wondering why you don't like it?
But it's not even hidden... lol
LOL so you tried it. It is funny Ive been a LIFE MEMBER of HMCOA since it began and just like this video what a letdown
nz rockdj ok troll , who the hell are you? just an idiot putting rude comment on posts you know NOTHING ABOUT.
might want to live what you preach.
why the obnoxious music? unbelievable
One of the most absurd tools. It has no use. It only serves to place a screw at an angle. A task that in 6 screws you learn to do without the help of tools like this one.
It’s designed to make things quicker and more precise. Of course you can do this by hand without the jig but that’s what jigs are for! To speed up the process and provide consistent precision.
Are you sure you can't see the screws from the side?