I did all these mods, but didn't have a .68mf cap laying around, so I ordered one, but got impatient and installed a .56mf and loved the results. It had a very tight bottom. When the .68mf came in the mail, I installed it and didn't like it as much. It didn't seem as tight and didn't have as much sparkle to it. Awesome job laying out the foundation, I couldn't do it without your guidance 🤘
I stayed with 150k at the gain pot, little more gain than you suggested. It feels better. I also threw in a 3H classictone choke and man.... its awesome!!! Perfect hard rockin tone
Fantastic mod, made the amp way better sounding and more like a proper Hot Rodded Marshall. I have one and already pulled C22 after this and can't wait to do all of it!! Cheers for sharing and all the wonderful detail. Let's gooo!
So I performed these mods to my DSL40CR this weekend. Some of the components are different in the CR, the second stage bypass cap is already .68uF, But putting the schematics side by side, I was able to make the same changes. Totally changed the amp for the better, in both feel and tone, and it is super crunchy on the Ultra green channel. it takes over where the Red classic gain channel leaves off, and the amp is a classic rock tone machine. All four modes work very well together. Thanks for putting this info out there. It completely transformed my amp into the type of sound I have been hunting for.
Glad you mentioned this, I'm about to add a filter Choke (Hammond 194G) to my DSL100HR. I was just waiting put most of the warranty before I started nodding. And I'll certainly be doing some of these other mods. I just finished my last pedal project (Chasm Reverb with some mods I came up with) so I need a new project. I'm also supposed to be building a couple pedal boards but I dont have the extra money to do them how I want right now. But a $25 choke and these mods (I already have plenty caps and resistors on hand) will be cheap but effective I imagine. Again thanks for sharing your experience with your 40cr!
I'm 99% done with doing the same with a dsl100hr, how did you fare with the c79 on the back of v1? not sure if i'm keen on not being able to get to the underside of that cap
@@drewpritchard2273 Taking the board out is not hard, just time consuming. Take pictures of all the connections, and take your time. While you are under there touch up any solder connections that might not be great, the wave soldering Marshall uses is not the greatest.
Hey Rick, I've got the 40CR. The bottom end bass isn't tight and more importantly...the tone is just modern. Did your mods change any of those significantly? I feel like the DSL40 package has so much potential but they should have just built in a JCM800 mode into OD1 and then whatever else they could get close to a hot rodded plexi into the Classic channels. If there were some mods for that, it'd be pretty amazing.
Hi Rick, where did you find the schematic for the DSL40CR for the mods you did? I’d like to tighten up my amp and get it more responsive like a JCM800-ish
I had a DSL 40C that I had laying around that I was going to sell. My other amps are a Bogner Ecstasy 101B, a Fender 6G3 Deluxe I built and a ‘65 Deluxe Reverb that I gutted and handwired. I think I’m going to keep the DSL with the rest of the stable. Sounds much better with these mods! Thanks for sharing!
It's probably worth mentioning that the Joey Mods thread shown halfway through this video is for the JCM2000 DSL amps, rather than the newer DSL100H, just in case anyone goes blindly copying what's mentioned in the thread without checking. As stated, there's many versions of the JCM2000 already and component numbering changes between even just those revisions of the board nevermind newer amps with the DSL name. It's alright for people like you or I as being able to recognise this stuff and what component being suggested to change does what and where that would be on a different amp etc etc is second nature by now
Great mods, I have one for the clean channel, adjust R2 down to about 2-3k. It is the bass control in a fixed tonestack, I find the clean channel is to different low end wise to the ultra gain channel. This makes them very close eq wise, so they play better with each other if you are a channel switcher.
@@rodrigomartins9692 I changed the value to 3k. You can remove the resitor and use a pot to dial in what you want it to be and then solder in a resistor with that value if you like as well. Just be careful.
I know this is basic physics but it's still so effing cool. Completely changing the character of that amp by swapping out a couple of values. Good tone before, a monster after! I love these tutorials. Just got going on a JCM:ifying an old Peavey Windsor.
@@HeadfirstAmps Exploring the options with the effects loop rn. It's really shitty out of the gates. Aaaand I don't really know what I'm doing. So there's that.
E-mail sent, I need this in my life! Good to see Aussie’s out there crushing it 😁 Love the technical videos & looking forward to playing with my DSL100 after hearing how awesome this is! 🤘
I did mods to my TSL 60 heads I use to own and that was my by far my fav Marshall amp i ever owned. One thing i advise anyone who owns these DSL and TSL heads, buy replacement boards because your gonna need them unless you do a lot of replacing of parts and get to those parts before they cause issues. I owned two TSL 60 heads and I had replacement boards for each one and in the end I had to use them to fix the amps. I got 5 years out of the first one and about 7 out of the 2nd amp before issues came up and caused harm to the boards. I love these amps, but damn Marshall did some cheap and stupid design choices in these amp. Thanks for the video ;-)
Sounds great stock but this mods make the DSL 100H boutique tier. Amazing video in all regards. I only found missing a part where you test the gain knob of the modded amp, like 1/4 gain, 1/2, 3/4 and gain on 10 and a bit of EQ to show the sonic spectrum.
Im about to try out a mod on my DSL100HR that ive been thinking about for awhile. But first ill say these are great amps even stock and the newer HR versions are even better. My main amp is the DSL100HR that i got when they first came out, 2nd month they were available. Anyways so far ive modded mine with a Hammond 194G choke and a switch mounted to the top of the chassis that allows you to select the choke or the stock resistor. 90% of the time i prefer the beefy feel of the choke but it can be fun to use the resistor and really let the amp open up to get some more sag characteristics. But to hear the difference between the two you really dont need to have the volume very loud. Its quite apparent when you have the choke engaged vs the resistor. My next mod (just waiting on parts) is going to be swapping the gain pots on the Classic and Ultra channel for concentric pots. The outer dial will control the gain like normal and the inner dial on the Ultra channel will dial in the C12 capacitor (that everyone removes on the DSL100H and that was left out entirely on the DSL100HR). So on the Ultra channel the inner dial will brighten up that channel the higher its turned up and darken the Ultra channel the lower it is. On the DSL100HR's PCB they left the pads/eyelets for "C12" which is actually C74 on the DSL100HR so that you can add the capacitor back in if you liked the stock DSL100H and wanted that sound on the DSL100HR. The C12 value is 470 pF. With no C12/C74 the Ultra channel is a little too dark on Lead 2/OD 2 but with tighter low end. But with the full 470 pF cap its a little too bright on Lead1/OD1 but the low end isnt as tight. So by adding in a value around 150 - 300 pF it sounds really great as a lead/solo tone. But sometimes the Ultra channels sound better warmer with no cap if you are hitting them with an overdrive like a tube screamer or Timmy etc. that will brighten them by adding gain, mids, upper frequencys or cutting lows. So being able to dial in the exact amount of brightness for these channels is really useful depending on the situation. In other words it should make an already versatile amp even more versatile. Without C12/C74 you loose the Marshall lead/solo tone "Snarl" but i also completely understand that with C12/C74 the Classic and Ultra channels EQ dont match up as well as they do with no C12/C74. As for the other concentric pot that replaces the gain on the Classic channel it will be doing the same thing (brighten or darken the Classic channel) by dialing in (C4 -100H) / (C61 - 100HR) but im going to use a larger value in place of C4/C61 so it will be able to be warmer than stock and brighter than stock depending on where it is set on the inner dial. And of course just like before the outer dial will still control the Classic channels gain. You might be thinking why not just EQ to get these changes and theres a few reasons why that isnt as ideal as this mod. The EQ isnt something you can set separately for each channel but with these mods you can get some slight control over the EQ of each channel simultaneously. And i truly do believe that the last little bit of magic that separates the big boys (plexi, JCM800 etc.) from the DSL line can be accounted for with this mod that wil lallow control over the snarl/depth of the preamp gain. Im really excited to get these mods in place. I try to post about all my builds an mods on Marshall amp Forum so if anyone is interested how it comes out keep an eye out over there.
Hey man, hows that DSL100HR treating you? I've got the 40CR and it's been good but the tone is somewhat modern, even on the classic crunch channel. The OD2 channel seems to be difficult to use, tho with rolled off guitar volume it's cool. I'm wondering if you found some "defacto" improvements? I'd love to get close to an AC/DC JMP800 sound...but then also that super tight, articulate JCM800 sound too! (I'm not sure I could get a plexi sound out of here). Anything that's been huge for you?
I like the presentation on the DSL100. Your choices for tighter brighter are not what I would do. But this is a difference in taste and your ears. You could look into EPITAXIAL diodes replacement for a spongier power supply. I am replacing that 270 ohm with a choke. I removed the bright cap on the gain control. The amp is not well biased from the factory. I re-biased. My amp is perfect and behaves. I enjoy the capability of the bottom and sometimes, if I want, I get that nice woolly bass. I can always roll off some bass. Thanks for your video on this and your astute explanations. No one else is showing this much confront.
@@ace-rob71 keep it around 72 to 75 mA. That is a total of two EL34s. Match as best you can both bias screws which is the metric of each side of the push/pull. That is 70% bias point at 37mA per tube with the plate voltage at 470v. This is a comfortable setting with an average set of EL34s and with this there has not been any runaway red plating. If that happens, locate and replace the faulty power tube.
Very very cool changes you made Jason. You know, watching and listening I realised that you’re creating your own personal ‘Jason Tong’ signature vibe and tone in these amp mods and voicings! It’s super cool to hear because the amps you mod have so much bite and punch without starting to sound brittle and harsh 😊 I don’t hear that in a lot of amps these days, even from the ‘big guys’ 😉 looking forward to watching part 2 now. Have an amazing day dude!
I guess you know what you’re doing and I certainly have no knowledge of electronics, but it scared the shit out of me when you put your hand on that transformer with the power on. 😮
Please do the DSL100HR too! They changed up some things on these newer models, its a bit less harsh and flubby than the older models i have played, still i feel it could use some improvement, its a bit stiff feeling under the fingers and not as fluid as some more expensive amps, i really wonder what kind of magic you would do to it.
I haven’t been a big fan of DSL amps, but that sounds good. The transformer set on the one I played through were quite small. I was really surprised by this.
Great stuff as ever Jason! Made the red channel have much more of a plexi percussive attack sound, and I presume the choke will help make it a little less stiff feeling? I have one of these amps too, and I’ve found the master volume can make a pretty big difference to the tone as far as rounding off some of the ugliness that can come through on the red channel. Not ideal for using live as the levels can end up quite mismatched but it does offer some more tones based on how it’s set. Love the explanations of the different parts of the circuit, thanks so much for sharing your tweaks and making the video!
I went to your website and don’t see pricing. Would be cool to know what someone would pay for this sound. These mods are EXACTLY what I like. Perfect 👌👏
Another great vid mate. It makes me wonder what Marshall was thinking when changing up these drive channels...Sign of the tones of the day I guess. It seems like they were trying to reinvent the wheel when it really didn't need it. Im all for trying new things but I can't help but think it was the marketing department driving these changes, any changes! instead of guitar players. Anyway with blokes like you around it seems like an easy enough job to bring these amps back into a usable state. The clean and crunch channels still do stand up in a stock form which is the amps saving grace. the rest just seems like more gain for gain sake at the expense of tone and clarity...silly IMO. Cheers mate, another informative and useful vid.
Agree Scotty. The JCM2000 was the amp that replaced the 900...now just imagine if this thing had simply been a 1959 plexi pre for channel 1, and then a 2203 800 on channel 2, with some basic structure/cathode bypass cap switching options. It would have slayed and would be a reverred amp to this day. It was such a missed opportunity.
@@HeadfirstAmps I could never get a tone that I liked out of a 900 but I heard others use them and sound great. A very different tone to the 800. All these mods are certainly getting your chops back in shape mate. Again the Suhr sounds very nice indeed.
That's always been my problem with the old JCM2000 DSL too. The gain on ultra lead 2 is far too muddy past 6. Otherwise it's a great amp especially with a mercury choke & OT.
You have the skills of a neurosurgeon in modding the PCB, I am amazed at your work. I will always wonder why the designers of these amps build them without the mods you described here! In all of your research into Marshall amps, can you recommend ANY new or re-issue Marshall that is perfect to your ears and does NOT need any mods? Thank you for sharing the details and photos of your work, you are a true master!
I very much appreciate that you put in the time and effort to make this series of videos. I have one of these amps and was evaluating if I want to make the changes you documented based on the before and after. I noticed one thing in the 'before' section of the video. When you are evaluating the Ultra Gain channel, it seems as though the wrong gain knob is being adjusted (classic gain channel instead of Ultra). This happens a few times around 9:07. This may have just been an oversight while you were demonstrating for the video. Are you sure you were comparing apples to apples when comparing the before and after recordings? Thanks for doing this. Great video!
Hello thank you for sharing this video, anyway, my 1998 DSL 100 JCM2-60-00 rev 345 doesn't have same shcematic, in fact cap 11 isn't connect like yours, i'm going on now wiht the mod and i will know you about the result bye
I have a dsl 20 h and I'm starting to think it's pretty sub par. Unless it's just me I've had a few moments by loading up the front and loop It's just not blooming unless the gains up to around half on the high gain channel which is too much gain
Suggestion for future videos, I’ve been watching a lot of your videos but I couldn’t find anything with the Marshall DSL20h. This amp is cheap and would be nice to have a mod that turn this amp in something better than the stock version. Maybe I can use this video as a guide to mod the 20h version but its schematic is a little different. What do you think?
Very interesting, I have the DSL 40 CR, is the scheme the same? only that yours is the 100w version and mine is 40w, tell me if what I think is correct, and also, how could I get the modified schematic that you show in the video? I don't know if I'm asking too much, but I really appreciate your great work. Cheers! 😉
If marshall ever does an updated version of this amp they should just delete the ultra gain 2 and make it essentially a 3 channel amp and have Clean, crunch and high gain. As well as tame the low end like you did and the harshness. If I were to have to use one of these amps stock I'd probably completely ignore both the high gain modes and just use the crunch mode boosted with an overdrive if I wanted high gain, although the crunch mode I'd say is pretty usable on its own for a crunchy rock type tone.
The OD2 channel works well (and has a fatter voice) with the gain not super high...and then your guitar volume rolled off. This avoids the mushyness and gives you quick control for getting that high gain out of the higher notes if you need it. It's pretty cool for some lead stuff. There are a lot of tricks in this amp but they aren't super apparent.
@@vin9976 I get what you're saying, they aren't bad amps and they can be dialed to sound good. But I feel like you shouldn't have to do a bunch of stuff like that to make a Marshall sound like a Marshall. Quite honestly I think they should stick to their older circuits or do hot rod versions of them. The Laney GH series (not the Ti version) from what I understand are an 800 style circuit with an extra tube stage in front you can have on or off. Marshall could easily do something like that and throw in switchable zener diodes, a resonance control, and maybe a mid frequency selector in the style of the Ampeg VL, another 800 style amp with an extra tube stage in front. I mean people have been hot rodding their amps for 40+ years now you think they'd get the memo by now what people want 😂 although I'm sure they'd charge even more than they do for their reissue amps
@@russiangoose7053 What you are describing is the JVM series dude. It's just the price in the USA $$$$ vs the WAY more reasonable UK price. Agreed tho. I wish the DSL just hit the new school Marshall Clean, JTM800/Plexi Circuit, JVM800 and then Hotrod JVM800 (or 900 SLX I guess). Who would want anything more right? We'd prob never buy anything else tho lol. My DSL40CR was 550$ used. It's pretty damn good with some messing around and a clean boost (to get closer to that tight JCM). The whole $$$ thing is silly as its just cheap freaking parts in a PCB board with a WELL known circuit. It's insane these things are 3x the cost of a damn insanely technical iPhone lol. No one wants more R&D, they just want the old school tone and circuit with perhaps an FX loop or headphone jack lol.
@@vin9976 honestly I just want a regular straight up 2204 or 1987, I don't care about multiple channels or versatility or FX loops or anything. I can play everything I want to play with a single humbucker and one channel and a volume knob. I can always throw a pedal to in on the rare occasion I need it. I know not everyone likes really barebones rigs like that and they want to be able to get the most out of an amp, especially if it's an expensive one like Marshalls tend to be which is understandable. There's a lot more affordable amps than marshall that are straight up clones or in the ballpark. There's a guy in the states called Rockitt Retro who builds handwired Plexis and JMPs for under 2000. And with Headfirst amps they're much more versatile and affordable and built on quality PCBs, not some of the stuff you see from marshall in the studio and origin and DSL amps
I have an original dsl 15h head that I love the gain channel. What is the possibility of modification to my dsl40c combo ultra gain channel to match this? Is it even possible?
I have the DSL40 and I definitely agree about the lead channels. Lead 2 is just unusable and just mush in general. Lead 1 is okay up to a certain point. I mostly stick around the clean/crunch channel as I prefer that edge of breakup plexi style tone. I've just got a question about the clean mode vs the crunch mode in the classic gain section, looking at the schematics are there any differences aside from the increased gain in the crunch mode?
Hey there, Just did a few of these mods to the DSL, it is way tighter and I have more control of the gain. Thank you for the tips. Have you played with any Mesa amps? Be handy to get some tips for the Dual Rectifier. Thank you for your content, also glad your from Australia to👍
I got the same amp. this is very interesting. So far, my only complain for this amp is the clean. Is it possible to get a simil fender clean tone with any mod? thanks.
Been thinking about pulling the trigger and getting one or two DSL100s to mod, I like the gain on tap but I feel that they sound really flat. I also play almost exclusively down tuned 7 strings, what would you recommend doing to make them more aggressive and what you might call more "modern" sounding, i.e. the fortin modded amps or the more recent variants of the Uberschall
I was considering applying bright caps and maybe a clipping diode, since I find the amps I named tend to become so pushed that they get very close to being fuzzy but are still aggressive and articulate
Would it be overkill if I stuck a Klon style pedal in front of the modded Lead 1? The gain on the pedal would be set around 10 oclock. The volume 3 o'clock and tone at around 1 o'clock.
Just loving your videos my friend. But I do have a question for you. I know this can be done and maybe you have some insight. But I have a 100h and a DSL 50 jcm 2000. And what I am looking to do is to forego the reverb foot switch and be able to add some sort of relay to change between lead 1 and lead two in the ultra gain channel.. could you do some kind of video for that and what would be needed to do it?
Hey man do you think it would be possible to turn this dsl into kind of a hot rodded jcm800 like you did with the origin? I figure it would be easy cause this amp already kind of sounds like a boosted jcm800?
I am a novice at this,but I noticed on this amp,as well as the Jubilee Re-issue,they don’t have the big blue filter cans anymore….just little capacitors on the board…..Does this effect the sound of the amps??..
Just curious does anyone know if this helps the headroom with using a boost? and allows for a little more gain? I've noticed that when boosting and trying to use like a "metal" amount of gain it gets very thuddy and the tone gets choked out. I've found you can kind of workaround this by turning up some gain on the boost and then turning down the gain on the amp itself, but you know, it would be nice to use the gain more on the amp just because it sounds good before it gets weird lol.
I did one of these amps and it sounds so much better. I'm doing another one and just finished and now I don't have any gain on lead 1 and lead 2. It's basically like a clean channel with not much volume. You have any suggestions?
@@HeadfirstAmps i traced it back to a bad resistor. That’s the first time i’ve had a bad new resistor lol. Thanks for your mods. They are awesome! And thanks for the reply
Hi My amp has this circuit that you show in your clip. Could you tell me please which resistors are the grid blockers I want to check if mine has 220K or 5K6
Grid stoppers? They won’t vary between those two extremes. I think you are confusing grid bias resistors (normally 220k) with grid stoppers (normally in the 1k5 to 5k6 range)
@@HeadfirstAmps I could well of confused the term perhaps you could clarify it for me please. I was referencing this comment taken from the Marshall forum specifically the 'DSL Joey mod' thread where a chap wilder amplification says 'The grid swamper resistors are R7, R10, R66 and R70. Only the older models had 220K (red/red/yellow color bands) swampers. Yours may already have the 5K6 swampers (green/blue/red color bands).' I think the wilder chap refers to a JCM2000 DSL, Trouble is I my own amp is the later DSL100H and I think circuit is different as wilder is reffering to a JCM2000 DSL. Do you know which resistors wilder refers to please which ones would they be in a DSL100H . Also a chap called ' TwinaACtacks also makes a reference to what I think is the same area the comments are page 8 on the thread TwinACstacks say's ..'I keep seeing issues with "Loose or Flabby Bass" that need being addressed. THE best mod I found is to Change the Grid blockers to 5k6 from 220K. Really tightens it up, That and a new OT and Choke'. TwinACstacks seems to be stating some amps came with 220K and should be changed to 5K6 but again I don not know which resistors they are in the DSL100H Wilder calls them 'Grid Swamper resistors' TwinACstacks' called them 'Grid blockers' I just want to know where they are in the circuit in my amp, Can you tell where they are please
This is why Fuchs, Hughes and Kettner, and Budda. Because they are JCM style amps thar have chord clarity even at high gain, the opposite of this. If you cant play a maj13#11, i dont want it. You made it sound like a peavey.
Aloha Jason nani mod on the amp video wish you live in Hawaii I would bring my DSL100H amp for you to mod for me i love the amp except the red channel the sound on the red channel very muddy it doesn't sound like a Marshall at all do you have the parts lists or showing where to remove parts and replacing parts on the amp I would buy those list instruction form you. Do think you can help me out on the red channel so it doesn't muddy and the speaker flubbing. The red channel is very terrible sounding. Aloha Mahalo for you time Braddah Jason
@@HeadfirstAmps hey friend, thanks for providing your experience, today I modified my dsl15 and took a lot from this video and from mod #34, it sounds amazing now, it's amazing how those 2n2 feel in the hand, much more Tight on the low strings, I also left only 2n2 on the treble peaking and installed a switch with different bright caps, thanks!
What gets me is that Marshall has had how many years now to work out the sound that players want, and yet not deliver it. Like WTF. There is 15 years + of forum posts, and RUclips videos that show what players are after, and yet make no andvances toward reaching that ? I just do not understand why nobody there takes the initiative to work toward it. I am just dumfounded that anybody that doesn't have actual amp knowledge like myself, and make their amps sound better. Let alone skilled amp builders like Jason doing it. I just dont get it.
Í know right. It just needs all that bass taken out of the preamp, and let it sing....I have no idea why Marshall release crap like this. Clearly no one there actually plays guitar!!
@@HeadfirstAmps they must have just made so much money over the years, that the directors just really dont care. "Make more headphones and fridges, and rest on our laurels"....
Or, y'know, they can release a "reissue" that's overpriced by at least €500. Marshall doesn't see any money from second hand sales of 30 year old amps.
my god, this sounds way better than my dsl100h, so far, every marshall you touched sounds 1000% better
I did all these mods, but didn't have a .68mf cap laying around, so I ordered one, but got impatient and installed a .56mf and loved the results. It had a very tight bottom. When the .68mf came in the mail, I installed it and didn't like it as much. It didn't seem as tight and didn't have as much sparkle to it. Awesome job laying out the foundation, I couldn't do it without your guidance 🤘
hello which iss of the dsl do you have? which schematic did you use to make this mods?
Thank you in advance
I stayed with 150k at the gain pot, little more gain than you suggested. It feels better. I also threw in a 3H classictone choke and man.... its awesome!!! Perfect hard rockin tone
Just picturing Ed having his hands on stock DSL100 back in early EVH days, the history the sound would make!
Fantastic mod, made the amp way better sounding and more like a proper Hot Rodded Marshall. I have one and already pulled C22 after this and can't wait to do all of it!! Cheers for sharing and all the wonderful detail. Let's gooo!
So I performed these mods to my DSL40CR this weekend. Some of the components are different in the CR, the second stage bypass cap is already .68uF, But putting the schematics side by side, I was able to make the same changes. Totally changed the amp for the better, in both feel and tone, and it is super crunchy on the Ultra green channel. it takes over where the Red classic gain channel leaves off, and the amp is a classic rock tone machine. All four modes work very well together. Thanks for putting this info out there. It completely transformed my amp into the type of sound I have been hunting for.
Glad you mentioned this, I'm about to add a filter Choke (Hammond 194G) to my DSL100HR. I was just waiting put most of the warranty before I started nodding. And I'll certainly be doing some of these other mods. I just finished my last pedal project (Chasm Reverb with some mods I came up with) so I need a new project. I'm also supposed to be building a couple pedal boards but I dont have the extra money to do them how I want right now. But a $25 choke and these mods (I already have plenty caps and resistors on hand) will be cheap but effective I imagine. Again thanks for sharing your experience with your 40cr!
I'm 99% done with doing the same with a dsl100hr, how did you fare with the c79 on the back of v1? not sure if i'm keen on not being able to get to the underside of that cap
@@drewpritchard2273 Taking the board out is not hard, just time consuming. Take pictures of all the connections, and take your time. While you are under there touch up any solder connections that might not be great, the wave soldering Marshall uses is not the greatest.
Hey Rick, I've got the 40CR. The bottom end bass isn't tight and more importantly...the tone is just modern. Did your mods change any of those significantly? I feel like the DSL40 package has so much potential but they should have just built in a JCM800 mode into OD1 and then whatever else they could get close to a hot rodded plexi into the Classic channels. If there were some mods for that, it'd be pretty amazing.
Hi Rick, where did you find the schematic for the DSL40CR for the mods you did? I’d like to tighten up my amp and get it more responsive like a JCM800-ish
I had a DSL 40C that I had laying around that I was going to sell. My other amps are a Bogner Ecstasy 101B, a Fender 6G3 Deluxe I built and a ‘65 Deluxe Reverb that I gutted and handwired. I think I’m going to keep the DSL with the rest of the stable. Sounds much better with these mods! Thanks for sharing!
It's probably worth mentioning that the Joey Mods thread shown halfway through this video is for the JCM2000 DSL amps, rather than the newer DSL100H, just in case anyone goes blindly copying what's mentioned in the thread without checking. As stated, there's many versions of the JCM2000 already and component numbering changes between even just those revisions of the board nevermind newer amps with the DSL name.
It's alright for people like you or I as being able to recognise this stuff and what component being suggested to change does what and where that would be on a different amp etc etc is second nature by now
Great mods, I have one for the clean channel, adjust R2 down to about 2-3k. It is the bass control in a fixed tonestack, I find the clean channel is to different low end wise to the ultra gain channel. This makes them very close eq wise, so they play better with each other if you are a channel switcher.
Hi. Did you lower it for 2-3k difference or put a 3k ohm resistor there? Sorry i didn't undesrtood right
@@rodrigomartins9692 I changed the value to 3k. You can remove the resitor and use a pot to dial in what you want it to be and then solder in a resistor with that value if you like as well. Just be careful.
I know this is basic physics but it's still so effing cool. Completely changing the character of that amp by swapping out a couple of values. Good tone before, a monster after! I love these tutorials. Just got going on a JCM:ifying an old Peavey Windsor.
I'd love to hear how you get on with the Windsor.
@@HeadfirstAmps Exploring the options with the effects loop rn. It's really shitty out of the gates. Aaaand I don't really know what I'm doing. So there's that.
Don't forget to adjust the power supply (dropping resistors). I believe the Windsor runs pretty low voltages in the preamp.
E-mail sent, I need this in my life!
Good to see Aussie’s out there crushing it 😁
Love the technical videos & looking forward to playing with my DSL100 after hearing how awesome this is! 🤘
I did mods to my TSL 60 heads I use to own and that was my by far my fav Marshall amp i ever owned. One thing i advise anyone who owns these DSL and TSL heads, buy replacement boards because your gonna need them unless you do a lot of replacing of parts and get to those parts before they cause issues. I owned two TSL 60 heads and I had replacement boards for each one and in the end I had to use them to fix the amps. I got 5 years out of the first one and about 7 out of the 2nd amp before issues came up and caused harm to the boards. I love these amps, but damn Marshall did some cheap and stupid design choices in these amp. Thanks for the video ;-)
Hey fella - this is the newer DSL not the JCM2000, which is the one you are referring to 😉
@@GuvnaOnSpotify Gotcha ! Ok. I was thinking it was JCM2000 series. I have not tried the new DSL series of amps. My bad ;-)
Wow this is sooo detailed. Thank you.
Sounds great stock but this mods make the DSL 100H boutique tier. Amazing video in all regards. I only found missing a part where you test the gain knob of the modded amp, like 1/4 gain, 1/2, 3/4 and gain on 10 and a bit of EQ to show the sonic spectrum.
Im about to try out a mod on my DSL100HR that ive been thinking about for awhile. But first ill say these are great amps even stock and the newer HR versions are even better. My main amp is the DSL100HR that i got when they first came out, 2nd month they were available. Anyways so far ive modded mine with a Hammond 194G choke and a switch mounted to the top of the chassis that allows you to select the choke or the stock resistor. 90% of the time i prefer the beefy feel of the choke but it can be fun to use the resistor and really let the amp open up to get some more sag characteristics. But to hear the difference between the two you really dont need to have the volume very loud. Its quite apparent when you have the choke engaged vs the resistor. My next mod (just waiting on parts) is going to be swapping the gain pots on the Classic and Ultra channel for concentric pots. The outer dial will control the gain like normal and the inner dial on the Ultra channel will dial in the C12 capacitor (that everyone removes on the DSL100H and that was left out entirely on the DSL100HR). So on the Ultra channel the inner dial will brighten up that channel the higher its turned up and darken the Ultra channel the lower it is. On the DSL100HR's PCB they left the pads/eyelets for "C12" which is actually C74 on the DSL100HR so that you can add the capacitor back in if you liked the stock DSL100H and wanted that sound on the DSL100HR. The C12 value is 470 pF. With no C12/C74 the Ultra channel is a little too dark on Lead 2/OD 2 but with tighter low end. But with the full 470 pF cap its a little too bright on Lead1/OD1 but the low end isnt as tight. So by adding in a value around 150 - 300 pF it sounds really great as a lead/solo tone. But sometimes the Ultra channels sound better warmer with no cap if you are hitting them with an overdrive like a tube screamer or Timmy etc. that will brighten them by adding gain, mids, upper frequencys or cutting lows. So being able to dial in the exact amount of brightness for these channels is really useful depending on the situation. In other words it should make an already versatile amp even more versatile. Without C12/C74 you loose the Marshall lead/solo tone "Snarl" but i also completely understand that with C12/C74 the Classic and Ultra channels EQ dont match up as well as they do with no C12/C74. As for the other concentric pot that replaces the gain on the Classic channel it will be doing the same thing (brighten or darken the Classic channel) by dialing in (C4 -100H) / (C61 - 100HR) but im going to use a larger value in place of C4/C61 so it will be able to be warmer than stock and brighter than stock depending on where it is set on the inner dial. And of course just like before the outer dial will still control the Classic channels gain. You might be thinking why not just EQ to get these changes and theres a few reasons why that isnt as ideal as this mod. The EQ isnt something you can set separately for each channel but with these mods you can get some slight control over the EQ of each channel simultaneously. And i truly do believe that the last little bit of magic that separates the big boys (plexi, JCM800 etc.) from the DSL line can be accounted for with this mod that wil lallow control over the snarl/depth of the preamp gain. Im really excited to get these mods in place. I try to post about all my builds an mods on Marshall amp Forum so if anyone is interested how it comes out keep an eye out over there.
Hey man, hows that DSL100HR treating you? I've got the 40CR and it's been good but the tone is somewhat modern, even on the classic crunch channel. The OD2 channel seems to be difficult to use, tho with rolled off guitar volume it's cool. I'm wondering if you found some "defacto" improvements? I'd love to get close to an AC/DC JMP800 sound...but then also that super tight, articulate JCM800 sound too! (I'm not sure I could get a plexi sound out of here). Anything that's been huge for you?
I like the presentation on the DSL100. Your choices for tighter brighter are not what I would do. But this is a difference in taste and your ears. You could look into EPITAXIAL diodes replacement for a spongier power supply. I am replacing that 270 ohm with a choke. I removed the bright cap on the gain control. The amp is not well biased from the factory. I re-biased. My amp is perfect and behaves. I enjoy the capability of the bottom and sometimes, if I want, I get that nice woolly bass. I can always roll off some bass. Thanks for your video on this and your astute explanations. No one else is showing this much confront.
Thanks!
Do you remeber how much mV I should set forthe BIAS for the DSL100H please? I'm gonna to change the EL34s. thanks!
@@ace-rob71 keep it around 72 to 75 mA. That is a total of two EL34s. Match as best you can both bias screws which is the metric of each side of the push/pull.
That is 70% bias point at 37mA per tube with the plate voltage at 470v. This is a comfortable setting with an average set of EL34s and with this there has not been any runaway red plating. If that happens, locate and replace the faulty power tube.
@@rdavid3848 thank you!!
Fantastic stuff Jason. More inspiration
DSL40C should work with these mods too, the schematic is identical!
Can anyone confirm for the DSL40Cr, or has anyone done this to their DSL40Cr?
Wow, amazing sounds from this mod. My dsl40cr is getting this.
Did you ever work on your DSL40CR and get it dialed in with some mods?
Very very cool changes you made Jason. You know, watching and listening I realised that you’re creating your own personal ‘Jason Tong’ signature vibe and tone in these amp mods and voicings! It’s super cool to hear because the amps you mod have so much bite and punch without starting to sound brittle and harsh 😊 I don’t hear that in a lot of amps these days, even from the ‘big guys’ 😉 looking forward to watching part 2 now. Have an amazing day dude!
Jay, that is probably the most flattering thing anyone has ever said about what I am doing....thank you!
@@HeadfirstAmps You're most welcome bro 😊 Exciting to see this happen! Start of something very special my friend! Have an awesome day!
@@HeadfirstAmpsvery ballsy but clean with glassy sustain. 🤤🤤
I guess you know what you’re doing and I certainly have no knowledge of electronics, but it scared the shit out of me when you put your hand on that transformer with the power on. 😮
Sounds Incredible ! 😁
Please do the DSL100HR too! They changed up some things on these newer models, its a bit less harsh and flubby than the older models i have played, still i feel it could use some improvement, its a bit stiff feeling under the fingers and not as fluid as some more expensive amps, i really wonder what kind of magic you would do to it.
I haven’t been a big fan of DSL amps, but that sounds good. The transformer set on the one I played through were quite small. I was really surprised by this.
Terrible job by Marshall stock, but they can be improved. Adding a choke has helped a lot too, watch for next clip.
@@HeadfirstAmps Mercury Magnetics made replacement transformers for these amps. The replacement power transformer was huge.
yep absolutely, just trying to squeeze what I can from this given the client brief.
Great stuff as ever Jason! Made the red channel have much more of a plexi percussive attack sound, and I presume the choke will help make it a little less stiff feeling?
I have one of these amps too, and I’ve found the master volume can make a pretty big difference to the tone as far as rounding off some of the ugliness that can come through on the red channel. Not ideal for using live as the levels can end up quite mismatched but it does offer some more tones based on how it’s set.
Love the explanations of the different parts of the circuit, thanks so much for sharing your tweaks and making the video!
Great video man, I’m just getting into mods and wondering if these mods would work in a Dsl20hr?
I went to your website and don’t see pricing. Would be cool to know what someone would pay for this sound. These mods are EXACTLY what I like. Perfect 👌👏
If you want me to mod your amp, you can email at jason@headfirstamps.com
@@HeadfirstAmps thanks. Do you service Australia & IN USA? 🇺🇸 🇦🇺
Hallo Jason...Does this mod work for 100 dsl HR too ? Is it the same board as in H model ? Thanks for a great video 🤘
Wonderful bite and clarity. Great mod's.
Another great vid mate. It makes me wonder what Marshall was thinking when changing up these drive channels...Sign of the tones of the day I guess. It seems like they were trying to reinvent the wheel when it really didn't need it. Im all for trying new things but I can't help but think it was the marketing department driving these changes, any changes! instead of guitar players. Anyway with blokes like you around it seems like an easy enough job to bring these amps back into a usable state. The clean and crunch channels still do stand up in a stock form which is the amps saving grace. the rest just seems like more gain for gain sake at the expense of tone and clarity...silly IMO.
Cheers mate, another informative and useful vid.
Agree Scotty. The JCM2000 was the amp that replaced the 900...now just imagine if this thing had simply been a 1959 plexi pre for channel 1, and then a 2203 800 on channel 2, with some basic structure/cathode bypass cap switching options. It would have slayed and would be a reverred amp to this day. It was such a missed opportunity.
@@HeadfirstAmps I could never get a tone that I liked out of a 900 but I heard others use them and sound great. A very different tone to the 800. All these mods are certainly getting your chops back in shape mate. Again the Suhr sounds very nice indeed.
The 900 is a solid state disaster imho, with the exception of the 900 SL-X which is all tube.
Thanks, yeah that Suhr is the one.
that was some inspired playing at the beginning!
Thank you Stephen
That's always been my problem with the old JCM2000 DSL too. The gain on ultra lead 2 is far too muddy past 6. Otherwise it's a great amp especially with a mercury choke & OT.
The joey mods thread he shows half way through this video is for the JCM2000 and addresses a lot of the issues with the amp
Well done... I wish you lived nearby! We could definitely benefit from having a Tech and Player like You around... Great job! AAA+
Thanks David!
You have the skills of a neurosurgeon in modding the PCB, I am amazed at your work. I will always wonder why the designers of these amps build them without the mods you described here! In all of your research into Marshall amps, can you recommend ANY new or re-issue Marshall that is perfect to your ears and does NOT need any mods? Thank you for sharing the details and photos of your work, you are a true master!
The Studio series amps (SV20 & SC20) sound pretty great straight out of the gate.
@@HeadfirstAmps thank you!
wow that suhr looks just like a showmaster strat
I very much appreciate that you put in the time and effort to make this series of videos. I have one of these amps and was evaluating if I want to make the changes you documented based on the before and after. I noticed one thing in the 'before' section of the video. When you are evaluating the Ultra Gain channel, it seems as though the wrong gain knob is being adjusted (classic gain channel instead of Ultra). This happens a few times around 9:07. This may have just been an oversight while you were demonstrating for the video. Are you sure you were comparing apples to apples when comparing the before and after recordings? Thanks for doing this. Great video!
Hello thank you for sharing this video, anyway, my 1998 DSL 100 JCM2-60-00 rev 345 doesn't have same shcematic, in fact cap 11 isn't connect like yours, i'm going on now wiht the mod and i will know you about the result bye
Big improvement with these mods...would these mods work on a jcm2000 tsl60?
Great stuff mate! Really enjoyed this.
Thanks mate!
I have a dsl 20 h and I'm starting to think it's pretty sub par. Unless it's just me I've had a few moments by loading up the front and loop It's just not blooming unless the gains up to around half on the high gain channel which is too much gain
I love mine. Its vicious and the 10 watt setting is even more loved by me because the midrange seems shifted
Suggestion for future videos, I’ve been watching a lot of your videos but I couldn’t find anything with the Marshall DSL20h. This amp is cheap and would be nice to have a mod that turn this amp in something better than the stock version. Maybe I can use this video as a guide to mod the 20h version but its schematic is a little different. What do you think?
Very interesting, I have the DSL 40 CR, is the scheme the same? only that yours is the 100w version and mine is 40w, tell me if what I think is correct, and also, how could I get the modified schematic that you show in the video? I don't know if I'm asking too much, but I really appreciate your great work. Cheers! 😉
If marshall ever does an updated version of this amp they should just delete the ultra gain 2 and make it essentially a 3 channel amp and have Clean, crunch and high gain. As well as tame the low end like you did and the harshness. If I were to have to use one of these amps stock I'd probably completely ignore both the high gain modes and just use the crunch mode boosted with an overdrive if I wanted high gain, although the crunch mode I'd say is pretty usable on its own for a crunchy rock type tone.
I agree with everything you say here 💯
The OD2 channel works well (and has a fatter voice) with the gain not super high...and then your guitar volume rolled off. This avoids the mushyness and gives you quick control for getting that high gain out of the higher notes if you need it. It's pretty cool for some lead stuff. There are a lot of tricks in this amp but they aren't super apparent.
@@vin9976 I get what you're saying, they aren't bad amps and they can be dialed to sound good. But I feel like you shouldn't have to do a bunch of stuff like that to make a Marshall sound like a Marshall. Quite honestly I think they should stick to their older circuits or do hot rod versions of them. The Laney GH series (not the Ti version) from what I understand are an 800 style circuit with an extra tube stage in front you can have on or off. Marshall could easily do something like that and throw in switchable zener diodes, a resonance control, and maybe a mid frequency selector in the style of the Ampeg VL, another 800 style amp with an extra tube stage in front. I mean people have been hot rodding their amps for 40+ years now you think they'd get the memo by now what people want 😂 although I'm sure they'd charge even more than they do for their reissue amps
@@russiangoose7053 What you are describing is the JVM series dude. It's just the price in the USA $$$$ vs the WAY more reasonable UK price. Agreed tho. I wish the DSL just hit the new school Marshall Clean, JTM800/Plexi Circuit, JVM800 and then Hotrod JVM800 (or 900 SLX I guess). Who would want anything more right? We'd prob never buy anything else tho lol. My DSL40CR was 550$ used. It's pretty damn good with some messing around and a clean boost (to get closer to that tight JCM). The whole $$$ thing is silly as its just cheap freaking parts in a PCB board with a WELL known circuit. It's insane these things are 3x the cost of a damn insanely technical iPhone lol. No one wants more R&D, they just want the old school tone and circuit with perhaps an FX loop or headphone jack lol.
@@vin9976 honestly I just want a regular straight up 2204 or 1987, I don't care about multiple channels or versatility or FX loops or anything. I can play everything I want to play with a single humbucker and one channel and a volume knob. I can always throw a pedal to in on the rare occasion I need it. I know not everyone likes really barebones rigs like that and they want to be able to get the most out of an amp, especially if it's an expensive one like Marshalls tend to be which is understandable. There's a lot more affordable amps than marshall that are straight up clones or in the ballpark. There's a guy in the states called Rockitt Retro who builds handwired Plexis and JMPs for under 2000. And with Headfirst amps they're much more versatile and affordable and built on quality PCBs, not some of the stuff you see from marshall in the studio and origin and DSL amps
I have an original dsl 15h head that I love the gain channel. What is the possibility of modification to my dsl40c combo ultra gain channel to match this? Is it even possible?
I have the DSL40 and I definitely agree about the lead channels. Lead 2 is just unusable and just mush in general. Lead 1 is okay up to a certain point. I mostly stick around the clean/crunch channel as I prefer that edge of breakup plexi style tone.
I've just got a question about the clean mode vs the crunch mode in the classic gain section, looking at the schematics are there any differences aside from the increased gain in the crunch mode?
I kind of like that to be honest. Tuning a guitar to C, and go with that Doom, Sludge tone. But yeah, it's the opposite of tight lol
Hey there,
Just did a few of these mods to the DSL, it is way tighter and I have more control of the gain. Thank you for the tips. Have you played with any Mesa amps? Be handy to get some tips for the Dual Rectifier. Thank you for your content, also glad your from Australia to👍
Haven't been in Mesas yet
Jason is "The Man"
I was wondering if any of you guys have been performed this mods on a DSL- 40C?
Ha, tnx! Not yet, but the mod could be transferred to a 40 I’m sure.
HI..is it the same mod for the newer version dsl 100 HR ?
Marshall really need to redesign the DSL circuit to make the ultra gain channel more usable…. Ive had the DSL100 and it was just painfully bright.
Excellent job bro!
Appreciate it!
Well Done! Very well explained. Instant subscribe.
Thanks!
That is a definitive improvement, tastefully done. What is the purpose of the 1M resistor to ground?
which one? After the gain pot wiper?
@@HeadfirstAmps Yes, that one.
I got the same amp. this is very interesting. So far, my only complain for this amp is the clean. Is it possible to get a simil fender clean tone with any mod? thanks.
Been thinking about pulling the trigger and getting one or two DSL100s to mod, I like the gain on tap but I feel that they sound really flat. I also play almost exclusively down tuned 7 strings, what would you recommend doing to make them more aggressive and what you might call more "modern" sounding, i.e. the fortin modded amps or the more recent variants of the Uberschall
I was considering applying bright caps and maybe a clipping diode, since I find the amps I named tend to become so pushed that they get very close to being fuzzy but are still aggressive and articulate
Would it be overkill if I stuck a Klon style pedal in front of the modded Lead 1? The gain on the pedal would be set around 10 oclock. The volume 3 o'clock and tone at around 1 o'clock.
you were turning the Classic knobs when you adjusted the lead 1 channel?
I heard that King's X at 10:34
Just loving your videos my friend. But I do have a question for you. I know this can be done and maybe you have some insight. But I have a 100h and a DSL 50 jcm 2000. And what I am looking to do is to forego the reverb foot switch and be able to add some sort of relay to change between lead 1 and lead two in the ultra gain channel.. could you do some kind of video for that and what would be needed to do it?
Hi Andy, thanks. Yeah that’s probably doable, but would almost certainly require a bit of surgery, I.e. cutting PCB tracks and so on.
Works with DSL5C 😃
Hey Jason. Have you done any mods on the Marshall SV20? Sounds like a great amp.
I've modded a SC20H but not a SV
@@HeadfirstAmps Thanks.
Thanks so much! Is there a parts list?
Danke!
Wow, thanks man!!
I just finished your mod. Sounds awesome.
Nice work, congrats!
Hey man do you think it would be possible to turn this dsl into kind of a hot rodded jcm800 like you did with the origin? I figure it would be easy cause this amp already kind of sounds like a boosted jcm800?
Do you know if increasing the gain to higher values causes more wear on the tubes?
Cheers from Portugal 🤘🍺🇵🇹
No, no need to worry about your preamp tubes.
Do these mods translate to the dsl 100hr?
I am a novice at this,but I noticed on this amp,as well as the Jubilee Re-issue,they don’t have the big blue filter cans anymore….just little capacitors on the board…..Does this effect the sound of the amps??..
Just curious does anyone know if this helps the headroom with using a boost? and allows for a little more gain?
I've noticed that when boosting and trying to use like a "metal" amount of gain it gets very thuddy and the tone gets choked out. I've found you can kind of workaround this by turning up some gain on the boost and then turning down the gain on the amp itself, but you know, it would be nice to use the gain more on the amp just because it sounds good before it gets weird lol.
Would you be able to do the dookie mod on one of these ?
How does it compare to jet city in terms of build quality?
amazing video, can this DSL get converted to a real ch1 pleaxi circuit and channel 2 just an 800 sound?
Hey Paul, well anythings possible and this could be done by ripping even more stuff out of the amp. You be bypassing at least 1 x 12ax7.
I did one of these amps and it sounds so much better. I'm doing another one and just finished and now I don't have any gain on lead 1 and lead 2. It's basically like a clean channel with not much volume. You have any suggestions?
Check preamp tubes, check your mod soldering. Use a meter or scope to trace signal.
@@HeadfirstAmps i traced it back to a bad resistor. That’s the first time i’ve had a bad new resistor lol. Thanks for your mods. They are awesome! And thanks for the reply
Great to hear you sorted it!
Hi My amp has this circuit that you show in your clip. Could you tell me please which resistors are the grid blockers I want to check if mine has 220K or 5K6
Grid stoppers? They won’t vary between those two extremes. I think you are confusing grid bias resistors (normally 220k) with grid stoppers (normally in the 1k5 to 5k6 range)
@@HeadfirstAmps I could well of confused the term perhaps you could clarify it for me please. I was referencing this comment taken from the Marshall forum specifically the 'DSL Joey mod' thread where a chap wilder amplification says 'The grid swamper resistors are R7, R10, R66 and R70. Only the older models had 220K (red/red/yellow color bands) swampers. Yours may already have the 5K6 swampers (green/blue/red color bands).' I think the wilder chap refers to a JCM2000 DSL,
Trouble is I my own amp is the later DSL100H and I think circuit is different as wilder is reffering to a JCM2000 DSL.
Do you know which resistors wilder refers to please which ones would they be in a DSL100H .
Also a chap called ' TwinaACtacks also makes a reference to what I think is the same area the comments are page 8 on the thread TwinACstacks say's ..'I keep seeing issues with "Loose or Flabby Bass" that need being addressed. THE best mod I found is to Change the Grid blockers to 5k6 from 220K. Really tightens it up, That and a new OT and Choke'.
TwinACstacks seems to be stating some amps came with 220K and should be changed to 5K6 but again I don not know which resistors they are in the DSL100H
Wilder calls them 'Grid Swamper resistors' TwinACstacks' called them 'Grid blockers' I just want to know where they are in the circuit in my amp, Can you tell where they are please
Do you guys mod the Marshall DSL 1 watt
Where is the master volume located on this amp? I can't understand the schematic/
Traditional Marshall master vol, between the tone stack and the PI input.
@@HeadfirstAmps but ... the modern model dsl100 contains two regulators - volume and master. where is the second one located on this model?
wow great job on that amp. they're kind of turds. you really fixed it up nicely.
schematic URL is dead.
Voltage CANNOT be lethal, only amperage that it's associated with.
Great job. Would this work on a dsl20?
Can you send me some pics of your amp? Headfirst.amplification@gmail.com
@@HeadfirstAmps can I just sent the gut shots from Google of it as I don't really feel like taking it apart?
sure, if you're confident that whatever you find is the same
@@HeadfirstAmps Hey, can I ask if this has been done? Otherwise I can send gut shots of my DSL20HR if needed, I'm no stranger to open it up hehe
This is why Fuchs, Hughes and Kettner, and Budda. Because they are JCM style amps thar have chord clarity even at high gain, the opposite of this. If you cant play a maj13#11, i dont want it. You made it sound like a peavey.
Thanks!
Dykkbag!
Aloha Jason nani mod on the amp video wish you live in Hawaii I would bring my DSL100H amp for you to mod for me i love the amp except the red channel the sound on the red channel very muddy it doesn't sound like a Marshall at all do you have the parts lists or showing where to remove parts and replacing parts on the amp I would buy those list instruction form you. Do think you can help me out on the red channel so it doesn't muddy and the speaker flubbing. The red channel is very terrible sounding. Aloha Mahalo for you time Braddah Jason
Can i use 50v 1uf and 50v 0.68. Is the 50v fine i guess is what I’m asking? Or does the voltage need to be higher
50v is fine for those positions as cathode bypass caps
@@HeadfirstAmps thanks man!!
@@HeadfirstAmps is 1/4 watt resistors all ok to use or should I use 1 watt?
1/2w better. 1w for plate resistors. 2w for power/b+ droppers
@@HeadfirstAmps all i had was a 1 watt 2.7k for R18. Is that gonna be a problem?
can i put 2 4700pf in series for 2n2 ?
Yep
@@HeadfirstAmps hey friend, thanks for providing your experience, today I modified my dsl15 and took a lot from this video and from mod #34, it sounds amazing now, it's amazing how those 2n2 feel in the hand, much more Tight on the low strings, I also left only 2n2 on the treble peaking and installed a switch with different bright caps, thanks!
Awesome!
Idk how it works but when he put his hand on the transformer I got so fucking nervous
Lol
Needs more gain
What gets me is that Marshall has had how many years now to work out the sound that players want, and yet not deliver it. Like WTF. There is 15 years + of forum posts, and RUclips videos that show what players are after, and yet make no andvances toward reaching that ? I just do not understand why nobody there takes the initiative to work toward it. I am just dumfounded that anybody that doesn't have actual amp knowledge like myself, and make their amps sound better. Let alone skilled amp builders like Jason doing it. I just dont get it.
Í know right. It just needs all that bass taken out of the preamp, and let it sing....I have no idea why Marshall release crap like this. Clearly no one there actually plays guitar!!
@@HeadfirstAmps they must have just made so much money over the years, that the directors just really dont care. "Make more headphones and fridges, and rest on our laurels"....
Or, y'know, they can release a "reissue" that's overpriced by at least €500. Marshall doesn't see any money from second hand sales of 30 year old amps.
Lifestyle products!! Ouch. This is what happens to companies that grow old.
A Marshall is like a Harley. Great from the factory but you have to mod them to get the most out of it.
nothing is availeble here , no schems and no paperwork
Have you checked my website?
Sounded so bland stock 🤮