WARN Winch Repair Made Easy
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- Many of our videos are comedic & satirical & not intended to cultivate antisocial or unlawful behavior. Thank you for supporting our Channel through the below affiliate links. No price increase for you but we may receive compensation.
-Amazon - our store - wranglermart.com
-Jk Boots - www.jkboots.com/wranglerstar
-Radios Made Easy - radiomadeeasy.com/product/wra...
-Amsoil - www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/?...
-GoDark Bags - godarkbags.com/#cody411
-Premier Body Armor - www.premierbodyarmor.com/wranglerstar
-Vertx - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=228804...
-My Patriot Supply - www.preparewithwranglerstar.com
-Eden Grow Systems - edengrowsystems.com/wranglerstar
Become A Wranglerstar Member For Exclusive Content and Perks
/ @wranglerstar
SUBSCRIBE: bit.ly/2btWfQR and turn on notifications to get them
#Proho #wranglerstar 
Развлечения
Don't leave home unprepared. BUBBA ROPE IS AN OUTSTANDING CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEA amzn.to/2EBSqbH
Hello cody I thought of an idea while watching your video..is there a product like a wind turbine(inside a tube) that can be placed onto a vehicle to generate/charge the electrical system whenever you are driving? If not that maybe a pretty effective supplementary charging device or not haha
Ohms test will not tell you what you need to know to make it easy for you find out what relay controls the spool in and loosely replace it and see if it works ... i would say the motor is good because it spins out all that relay does is change direction VOLTAGE DROP BY "REAL FIX REAL FAST" CHANNEL GIVES A GOOD EXPLANATION
@@mechanicmike2858 it's a 3 lead DC reversing motor(i believe) so there are 2 sets of brushes and windings usually he wants to test the brushes just get a clamp on amp meter on the reverse motor brush positive lead and see if there is any current flow when ingage(no current flow bad brush).. bad windings will either short or trickle current continuously when directly hooked up... a megger is another method to test the windings but most likely it is a brush.
What brand are the best leather work gloves or which gloves would you recommend for a carpenter which would you recommend
But rest assured.....this is NOT a paid endorsement.
Your winch has 2 sets of brushes. 1 set for "spool out" and another, independent set, for "spool in". This motor works just like an automotive starter except that it works in both directions. The problem is that your "spool in" brushes are wasted. If you're going to replace 2 brushes, just replace all 4 and be done. The brushes are located under the 4 silver Torx head screws on the motor body. The reason you're getting a higher voltage reading on the motor positives in the 2 different directions is because when you spool out, there's no load, so the motor is only pulling enough voltage to work. When you try to spool in, there's currently a LOT of resistance (due to the motor being stuck), so it's pulling the maximum voltage trying to operate. Stop trying to make it work until you replace your brushes or you'll end up burning up your relays because of the repeated usage and high amperage the motor is pulling while trying to work. The reason your spool in brushes are fried is because you're never putting it under load when you spool out, so those brushes will wear MUCH slower than your spool in brushes due to the high amperages passed thru them when working. You MIGHT be able to test it before tearing it apart by lightly tapping on the motor body with a hammer while trying to spool in. Sometimes this can get the brushes to make up contact, but it's not guaranteed. If you get into a situation where you NEED it before you get your replacement brushes, you should be able to swap your spool in brushes with the spool out brushes. This will allow you to use the winch while awaiting parts. You'll just have to free spool it anytime you need to spool out. CAUTION!!! Only use the free spool if there's no load on the winch line (don't free spool if you're winching something up a hill and there is weight on the winch line). Your welcome.
Winner winner chicken dinner right here
You're welcome ;) couldn't resist...
You don't know what you're talking about.
@Harry M there are, indeed, 2 sets of brushes. Brushes are ALWAYS oriented 180 degrees apart (opposite sides of the armature). Look closely at the motor body, there are brush access screws offset by 90 degrees. Also, there are 2 types of motors for these winches, 2 wire and 3 wire. 2 wire winch motors (modern design) swaps + and - on the 2 wires. These will only have 1 set of brushes. This is a 3 wire winch where positive is swapped between 2 sets of brushes based on the direction you want and share a common ground.
@@BlueCollarBachelor are you saying I don't know what I'm talking about?
You are like the RUclips dad and Grandpa. I'm happy that you share and pass on this knowledge. You've gotten me back into projects I would have left alone forever. You're a great man and I look forward to seeing more of your craft!
Hi Cody, I just bought myself the exact same winch but in much worse condition, rusted solid. Have had a lot of fun fixing it up and learned a lot. I can't wait to get it running right. Super simple to work on.
I'm really happy you took our suggestions. I bought both two years ago and I will never go back to snatch straps and steel shackles.
Excellent sir! Down in the SE (Florida) I have been using "snatch straps" for years. For towing I am not a huge fan, prefer a tow strap. But for pulling someone out of the muck and mire.. the "snatch" part of the snatch strap really comes in handy. It lets you bounce a vehicle with out the dead stop of a chain. I have been using the same Warn 30k lb strap for 20+ years.
I love these type of videos. They show a lot more of what you are capable of and what your life is like!
A is for amps. The A with the squiggly is AC current, and the A with the line and dash is for DC Current
don’t forget if using a multi meter with to measure amps to put the meter in series. If in parallel you will blow your meter fuse if lucky if not your meter
I’m an electrician who loved watching your meter technique, good to see you haven’t mastered every trade yet.
Always fun to hang around the shop with you Cody! Hope the winch remedy comes soon!!!
Need a USPS box to hold your tools 😎👍
I just finished restoring the same model winch today. I powdercoated it mat black with a fine texture. Which was convenient because we're in the aluminium powder coating business.
Yes the A is amps, seems to be there a short at the winding, could also be the brushes, or the wire some where, the through bolt I have also had trouble with also. Use ohms to check from the non working post to the base of the motor, should be open. Good luck and thank you sir.
When you pulled that rope out it brought me back to all those times we had to hook up our Humvees to the Chinook to fly somewhere. Those things are crazy strong.
check the brushes on the motor
You were right about the "A" on your multimeter for checking amperage. I recommend checking out a video on using one. They are pretty cool and come in handy when troubleshooting electrical problems.
Another real (and good) video! Thanks for your time.
I’m really liking these repair videos. Keep them coming!
Mr Warn lived down street from us, saw us mounting warn wrench stopped to watch installation. We were on our way deer hunting, put our 3 bucks on wench an wench bumper for Mr. Warn. He put our picture in his sales brochure.
Thanks for the explanation of a relay. I like your simple explanations.
I watched every second and now anticipating the next one. Thank you for the videos
Love the story times! Keep them coming.
Cody with the winch pull the end of the winch off with the wires going to it inside it there is a copper winding with some bushes for contact that is the way the voltage is supplied to the motor and I have found that gets dirty or a bad contact so would be worth checking them first I had it in the past took it apart cleaned the contacts up and put a decent amount of contact lubricant on and it worked perfectly afterwards
Love your videos man, you've been my favorite youtuber for a while now.
That is a diamond knot if I remember correctly on that soft shackle. From back when I made a bunch. Those soft shackles are nice but they are susceptible to sharp edges.
Today!!! BEST CONTENT EVER!! Seriously! Id have that motor so far apart though if I was there. lol
One more thing about that soft shackle, and ropes in general - you'd be amazed at the rated capacity of some brand-name ropes out there. Many people are actually switching from steel cable to those ropes in winches.
Good information on the new strap/rope!
I had similar on my van check under the silver screws on the motor body for the brushes there probably badly worn hope it helps great vids by the way Cody
those soft shackles are great! we use them for yacht racing since they are so strong, and when something does break and go flying across the deck, they are less likely to cause significant damage.
From my family to yours A very Merry Christmas And a Happy New Year, thank you for the awesome content and looking forward for next years surprises.
From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
If you want to confirm it's a control issue, switch the leads going to the motor. If it will only spin in and not out now, it's controls that are bad.
For a great upgrade get one of the wireless adapter kits from Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply (where I got mine). Makes it so you can run the winch from anywhere. Great when your working with trees. I wired mine parallel to the corded remote so I can use both.
Always learning something! Not a waste of a video!
Check for a short in the motor, sometimes you can see them, many motors just have some insulation rubbed off and you can respray it with laquer if you see arcing inside on a power test after you open it. Relays seem good though, and quite often it is something minor in the motor, even some rust on the armature can cause goofy issues.
Finn Electric in Grays Harbor (google shows him) is an old Swede and expert on auto electric motors, it's all he does, we take all our starters and alternators from shovels, cat's, skidders etc to him no matter where we are working in the state, he is very good at what he does.
Welcome to the world of Dynema brother. That stuff changed recreational recovery about ten years ago. Glad to see you're not using chains anymore. =)
When I was in my youth and on a wheat harvest, the grain truck sunk down into the sand in the road. The boss comes over with the combine and hooks a chain to the front of the truck. I didn't know combines were powerful enough to pull much, but this International Harvester late 1960s combine could pull. He tightened up the chain and it snapped. The link flew into the truck radiator and barely missed the coolant tube. I got a lesson on the danger of pulling with chains.
I had that same winch bought around 2003 put on a 2 door Yukon GT with a 4" lift.
"I'm not really buying stuff, but I made an exception for this because it was cool" 🤣
Which brand of leather work gloves would you recommend or which type of gloves would you recommend for carpentry
@@christopherdobbin7184 I dont think you meant to reply to me
Thanks. Enjoyed the video sir.
I enjoyed the chain story. Thx
Great Video .
I have to rebuild my Warn xd9000 During the next weeks . I Broke the Motor Support by cutting down a tree With 95 cm at the bottom
The winch have to Support the tree Not to Fall in a barn .
Love the shop videos. I don't have all of these items but hope to one day. Thank you and Merry Christmas to your family!
inspiring. great humour thankYou !
You can also check the relay by jumping across the main wires just like jumping a solenoid on older cars. Use a jumper across the terminals then push button. Or swap switches.
Wranglestar,
You state that all four relays showed no resistance (we only see the two being tested) but the second of the two did not exhibit the normal characteristic of a reading one would expect to see when closing. These relays or "contactors" close by way of an electromagetic field when energized. It happens very fast and with some force so what you should have seen was the meter go from open to approximately zero ohms without slowly making its way there, compared to what we saw. A lot of current flows through these, more than 200 amps initially, and over time one post of the contact will arc (causing pitting and copper transfer) or "wear' out if you will; which is my guess as to what is wrong. Replace at least the two wind in contactors, better all four and keep the working ones as spares. This is of course based on only what I can see from the video.
Thanks Cody
Wasn’t bad content for me. Long day at work and it’s nice to see that your a human and things don’t always go your way too.
This is the best type of video. 2 dudes in the shop.
youtube is a great resource to learn how to use tools and equipment.
Rodenticide under a milk crates works best in our barn. We tried the bucket trick and it worked for a few months. The best method is to use a wire with with an oiled pvc small diameter PVC pipe over it. Try chunky peanut butter maybe.
An easy check for motor or brushes and a check of your relays:
1. If there are only two power leads going into the motor then the relays send Pos to one, Neg to the other on extend and the opposite polarities on pull, so
2. use your jumper cables to apply power straight to the motor. If it runs, switch the polarity you apply with the jumper cables and see if it runs.
Assuming it runs both directions - and this is my expectation since it runs in one direction ...
3. Relays, when closed, should be a perfect conductor so if you measure the voltage across a relay when it is conducting it should show zero voltage.
4. While activating the pull switch measure the voltage across the two pull relays. If one of them is not zero, that is your bad relay.
If it is a three wire system as someone below mentioned, I'm not familiar.
Warn winches are my favorite too. I'll own one someday when I can afford one. Been keeping my eye on Craigslist for an old one I can fix up. Till then I'll have to settle with an old 12,000lb Harbor freight winch that just won't die.
Wow, this title really PULLED me in!
Finally you got a recovery rope. The Evaporust shouldn't eat away at the metal even if you do leave it in there for a while unlike some highly acidic options.
I'm not entirely sure why, but I found this to be a particularly fun and enjoyable video. Thanks for keeping me entertained, yet again.
Never any bad content. Keep up the good work!!
great video, i bought a used f250 gasser and a new warn 16.5ti to go on it from yours and others recommendations
That towing story was funny. As soon as you said you had to tie the chain to the bumper, I had a feeling I knew where that story was going to end and I wasn't disappointed, LOL! Looks like you all can laugh at that now which is good, I know I've done my share of young and dumb stuff back in the day...
From what I know from working on my old truck if the solenoid makes a clicking noise it is good. I would next clean up all the connections and tighten them down. if that does not work that could mean the wires are bad or there is a short in that part of the system. Also the motor could be bad, though my bet is that there is a short that what happened to my truck with the starter solenoid system. Lucky for you I think the electrical system in a winch is alot less complex than a 1990 f150.
did you see that part fly off when you were unreeling the cable on the floor. it looks like a rubber gasket or something 4:44 to 4:49
It was the bushing with the slot in it when he was reassembling the wench.
I had same issuse , buy all 4 new solenoids and it will work like new. Dont just replace 1 or 2. For reliability replace all 4 you can order it from warn or any 4wheel shop , dont use Amazon solenoids
Great video! I’ve never understood electrical stuff either.
Try switching the two wires that connect to the motor. If it spools in but doesn't spool out then it's the relays. If it still doesn't spool in, then something is messed up in the motor.
If it works when you switch them around it could be a temporary fix because you can just free spool line out.
Best content! I love your stories. I was laughing before you got to the end .
Great video!
Those soft shackles dont like dirt and mud so make sure you keep them out of the mud. Glad you picked up what I recommended, much safer and a lot better performance.
Looks like might be time for a new winch. There are many other very decent brans other than Warn such as Rumva, EFS, Super Winch, Come up etc. Plus with the new synthetic rope, they're lighter, safer and overall better. Don't forget a Factor 55 ultra hook. Factor 55 make some awesome 4wd off-road recovery gear as well alongside Bubba.
I’ve had to replace a solenoid for the same reason. Disconnect the jumpers and energize the solenoid. Check both sides with continuity tester. Easy Peary. Got my replacement solenoid at carquest auto parts. Napa probably stocks them too.
I knew you were in trouble when you started disassembly. I did the same thing.
I once spent a summer doing a rodent field survey, using (amongst other kinds of devices) bucket traps. Quite often, we would find something substantially bigger than a mouse (rats, voles, weasels) in the buckets. And sometimes, the bait would be gone and there'd be nothing there ... which suggested that whatever took the bait (usually peanut butter, yes, rodents love it) was big enough to jump right out of the bucket.
Our bait was on the bottom of the bucket, and we covered the top (mostly), since we were live trapping and releasing, and did not want the rodents to die in the hours between when they fell in the bucket and we could get to them. Generally, this was interesting and fun, although the spectre of rodent feces borne disease made it slightly less fun.
Warn winches are DC series motors. The field winding is in series with the armature winding. There are three terminals plus the ground, on that winch. There are only two brushes. The brushes feed the armature (rotating) winding. One brush is connected to ground ( the case ), the other is connected to the terminal which is situated away from the other two terminals. The brushes ride on the commutator, which passes voltage to the armature. The polarity of the field winding is reversed, to switch direction of rotation. This is done with the four relays (2 for CW, 2 for CCW ). The field (stationary ) winding is connected to the two terminals nearest each other. Google warn winch schematic, for a wiring diagram
I'm surprised the mouse trap didn't work. I've been trying to catch some mice around here myself and it astonishes me at how little they weigh. If it were me, I'd recommend drilling larger holes in the sides of the bucket where you inserted the ends of the spinning trap and perhaps even apply some sort of lubricant to reduce the friction even further. A small mouse may not weigh enough to cause the trap to spin as it's currently configured.
Anyway, good luck to you, Cody.
I like how the loctite has sneaked in on the shelf in the back! xD
This is great, thank you :)
Good vid thanks
The hamster on the inside needs fed.
reverseable electrical motors have two basic designs,One type had a foreward set of windings and another set of reverse windings they usually have 3 terminals on the motor. one is ground, a forward, and then a reverse . usually have 2 relays. or just a throw switch. Your 4 relays indicate that the relays reverse the currend in one set of windings. check all the contacts. the meter can show continuity but a bad connection will not pass enough current to operate the motor. You can connect jumper cables to the motor and bypass the relay to check motor operation . When installing new brushes it is best to have the armature turned-trued. A starter repair shop could just do the motor work.
Best option is as suggested, check the brushes, however some winches use a changeover solenoid, that is one with a contact that breaks, as well as one that makes, if the break contact is burnt out it will not make contact when the solenoid is turned off...
To check amps you have to connect in series the A meter. On lead to the + of the battery, and the other lead to the + of the motor. That way you can measure amps :)
If someone wants to tell a story and starts to chuckle you know its gonna be good.
I’d flip around the connections on the winch. So that when you push spool out the winch should spool in. This way you’ll know if it’s a switch/relay or if it’s something wrong with the motor.
Alother great video!
If I look at wiring diagrams and to the four relays it seems that the 2 closest wires on the motor switch polarity and the third furthest wire is the ground of the metal body that comes from the car ground and loops through to the relays.
So when you test voltage you should test on one of the two wires that are next to each other on the motor.
What this means is that for each direction 2 relays should fire. For one direction relay 1 and 3 fire (1 becomes positive (first black wire), 3 becomes negative (second black wire)), for the other direction relay 2 and 4 fire (2 becomes negative (first black wire), 4 becomes positive (second black wire)) (notice how polarity changes?).
It could still be that inside the motor something is wrong but I would make sure that both relays fire in each event, or put your multimeter in voltage mode, put him on the 2 black wires that are closest on the motor and see if you get 12 volt and in the other direction -12 (minus 12) volt.
zenddoor just take a volt meter and test at the motor leads. Across both leads. Will be 12v one direction and -12v the other. If so then the motor is the issue. Honestly with a winch that old i would send the motor out for repair and replace all 4 relays. Winch needs to work when needed. An unreliable winch might as well be left at home.
It might have bad brushes.
Had same problem on my winch last month. Water had gotten in the motor.
Put a test light on the other side of the relay that clicks it should light up. If it doesn’t it has bad connection inside check them all that way. You could also jump the terminals to see if it works
"Anything British you're going to get problems" - let the flame war begin! Love it!
Great video! Hilarious story.
with the relays the problem you've got is you have contact on which ever is bad if not both it/they will show low resistance but because the plates are either buckled or have pitting from use so they won't allow the adequate amount of current through to power the motor
my best guess is to connect the winch to the battery and measure the voltage between the high current poles on the relays a higher voltage equals the worse your relay is basically trying to pull power through your multimeter but it's the safest way of testing them
Nice story at the end :)
brilliant videos recently!
Classic car site might buy the blinker and bulbs. My friend made a mint on a barn find of bulbs.
Yeah, but is cleaning that mess up and checking them worth what you could get? We are talking mid to late century Ford here...
ground the motor use the positive jumper on one terminal at a time if it works find the bad relay,if it don't work have the motor repaired. good luck!
Take a look at a circuit to reverse a rotation of the DC electric motor. There is an issue (lack of contact) inside the relay where the polarity is reversed
I think you need to disconnect the solenoids from the system to properly check. If not, you will get a back feed and they will seem good when the power is back feeding. I ran into a similar problem testing my air compressor motor. Also, if one the two solenoids for each side is bad, the winch won't work.
Keep the metal shackles. The Bubba soft shackle is no go on a tow point with a sharp 90 deg. corner.
I have never seen a wench taken apart before! Interesting how it works Mr. Wranglerstar! Your new gadget looks cool because it’s not so heavy even I could pick it up and use it. I am looking forward to seeing you put it to use on pulling something out of the mud/or a ditch! Another You Tube channel uses the mouse trap under his cabin with a high rate of success. The channel is the Boss of the Swamp. I think he has it down pat if you want to check out his channel Cody. FYI
Jack the Ripper did a pretty good job at it...
Make sure you remember
Kinetic rope like the bubba rope should be used for quick tugs (I.e pulling someone out )
It should not be used for long dragging use, your old lifting strap (static strap) should be used for that or any time your winching with a strap attached
I agree with Anthony Cook, that you have a bad set of brushes on your spool in side.
Maybe you got an ultra-rare Brittish made Warn winch? I read a comment down the page claiming 90% of all landrovers sold are still on the road today. The rest made it back home. To be fair, AC Bristol did design a cool car way back in the 60's, just needed Shelby to give it an infusion of good ole American designed 289 and 427ci V-8 hp to become a great car. lol
Old_and_Slow I think the line Land Rover themselves quote is 70% of all land rovers built are still on the road in some form.. meaning a Frankenstein Land Rover lol.
Wow... lot of bad info here. There are only one set of brushes in that motor. You change the direction of a DC motor by changing the polarity of the power you send to it. Bad brushes in a motor designed to be bi-directional would cause the motor to be unreliable in both directions. If it only quits in one direction, it's in the control relays. The control relays work in pairs. One pair delivers current in one direction, the other pair delivers current in the opposite direction. The "spool in" pair of relays usually sees more current, because most of your winch work is done by retracting the cable, and that's why the "spool in" failed first.
Easy diagnosis? First, I would remove power and verify all the connections are good, no corrosion or burns, fasteners snug, then test again. If it still doesn't work, move on to the next step. Disconnect the battery. Swap the two cables attached to the motor. Connect the battery. Hit spool out... winch should try to spool in. Hit spool in... relays should "thunk", winch should not run. If that's the case, disconnect the battery, put the cables back where they were, and replace the "spool in" pair of relays. I would recommend replacing all 4 so you don't have to get in there again for another 15 years, but running through that quick diagnosis process will verify where the problem lies before you go buy parts.
I believe the brushes are beneath those large torx type screws on the side of the armature.
I work at a bait shop, this might be useful for our winch