'Just now seeing this and very grateful for the encouragement. My issue started with trying to replace just the "donut" gasket on the exhaust-pipe connection. The engine's the same, but mine's a '68 GMC C-15. 'Ran into the same problem with crappy, rusted treads. Had to do the same as you, with a hack saw, but from underneath. Bored out the center of the bolt shaft with the hope of using an extractor. Wound up breaking the treaded lip of the manifold itself. This would be my 1st attempt at replacing a manifold too, so thanks again for helping with easing the anxiety.
On reassembly leave the mounting bolts loose that hold the manifolds together, this is important. Tighten bolts that hold the manifolds to the head then tighten the 3 that hold the manifolds together.
cool vid for people that havent done this. I have a 250 as well and have the issue of a broken manifold. I took it off the orignal exhaust manifold 2 years and put another used one but it broke again. I will have to buy a repo one or just might go with he performance intake and headers. Just dont have the money for it. offy and some headers in store in the future.
I have an Offy intake on my 292, but used a new agricultural exhaust manifold rather than headers. I like the stock heat riser system and don't like the prospect of dealing with flange leaks headers seem prone to.
Stephen and Lori Young i am more of a daily driver. Explain the agricultural exhaust manifold. Are they easy to acquire, what’s the difference from a stock manifold?
@@YoungHeartedSoul Daily driver is very good; glad to hear it. The 292s were used by one, maybe more than one, agricultural equipment manufacturer. When I was rebuilding mine, I shopped online, probably ebay or amazon, found a new one at a decent price, and got it. The outlet inside diameter (at the pipe) is slightly smaller than the original one, but uses the same donut gasket. I talked to my retired engine rebuilding shop operator friend about it, and he said that was a good thing for torque, which figures when you think of agricultural equipment use. Otherwise, it's indistinguishable from stock, as far as I know. It was easy to acquire six years ago, once I got past the money part. I wasn't shopping specifically for an agricultural one, just a manifold. Oh yeah, it has a dual stud pattern at the outlet flange - two stud or three stud. Nice feature, gives you the option.
Stephen and Lori Young thanks i need to look into a solution as you know too these intake and exhaust manifolds crack. I want to get a nice intake and exhaust combo might go with offnehausser and headers but i heard that they hit the bell crank for the shifter
Doing this on my 73 mercruiser 250 ci GM inline 6 this week it seemed easy enough but wanted to make sure and yep think I'm right. Any torqe specs I should be aware of when tightening back up?
Well, that looked like fun. That old manifold was (the technical term, I believe) a hurtin' unit. Been there, done that, much nicer watching it than doing it.
Thanks for sharing!!!! It's been a long time since I worked on one of these and I haven't got my 71 home yet so I can;t even get a look at it yet!!! How long did it take you do do this job? The muffler shop in Regina Sk. want $250 plus tax for gasket and donut replacement, which I think is very pricey !!!! Thks !!!
Had my truck in my shop for 9 months while I leisurely rebuilt the front end. Since it hadn't been started in all that time I purposely didn't choke it so it would build oil pressure before firing up cranked it about 40 seconds then applied choke and she fired right off. I backed up just enough to have the exhaust out the door and got out to look at and listen to the engine and noticed liquid on the floor then smelled it was gas! Ran back to the cab and shut down the engine but in that short time that filter leaked about 2 quarts all over the passenger side of the engine, filled the 2 channels on the main crossmember and the rest was pooling on the floor and running down the driveway. Luckily I had no source of ignition or I'd have been toast. Those filters have a gasket on both sides of the glass tube and after months of non use the fuel had drained back and the gaskets dried out. If I had just had the hood closed and backed out and went for a drive I can't imagine. I agree just buy a steel filter and change it out every 2 or three years if your truck acts like it's starving.
@@effgee5102 Do you know about the filter inside the carb, just at the inlet? An external one shouldn't be needed. I haven't used one of the glass ones, but I like the idea of being able to see whether gas is getting there. I take your warning seriously, and am glad this turned out OK for you. And your truck.
@@stephenandloriyoung5716 My carb is an Edelbrock 1400 series, they don't have an internal filter, luckily they also require a regulator inline before the carb, for that reason I had mounted my filter on the passenger side otherwise when it was leaking it would have been all over the exhaust (chevy 292).
'Just now seeing this and very grateful for the encouragement.
My issue started with trying to replace just the "donut" gasket on the exhaust-pipe connection. The engine's the same, but mine's a '68 GMC C-15.
'Ran into the same problem with crappy, rusted treads.
Had to do the same as you, with a hack saw, but from underneath. Bored out the center of the bolt shaft with the hope of using an extractor.
Wound up breaking the treaded lip of the manifold itself.
This would be my 1st attempt at replacing a manifold too, so thanks again for helping with easing the anxiety.
On reassembly leave the mounting bolts loose that hold the manifolds together, this is important. Tighten bolts that hold the manifolds to the head then tighten the 3 that hold the manifolds together.
Completely tighten the bolts in head 1st b4 touching the 3 center bolts or?
Thanks for the video bud ,will be working on a buddy's 57 bel air same engine.😎
I’m gonna have to pull mine off and change gasket as well. Thanks for sharing this.
cool vid for people that havent done this. I have a 250 as well and have the issue of a broken manifold. I took it off the orignal exhaust manifold 2 years and put another used one but it broke again. I will have to buy a repo one or just might go with he performance intake and headers. Just dont have the money for it. offy and some headers in store in the future.
I have an Offy intake on my 292, but used a new agricultural exhaust manifold rather than headers. I like the stock heat riser system and don't like the prospect of dealing with flange leaks headers seem prone to.
Stephen and Lori Young i am more of a daily driver. Explain the agricultural exhaust manifold. Are they easy to acquire, what’s the difference from a stock manifold?
@@YoungHeartedSoul Daily driver is very good; glad to hear it. The 292s were used by one, maybe more than one, agricultural equipment manufacturer. When I was rebuilding mine, I shopped online, probably ebay or amazon, found a new one at a decent price, and got it. The outlet inside diameter (at the pipe) is slightly smaller than the original one, but uses the same donut gasket. I talked to my retired engine rebuilding shop operator friend about it, and he said that was a good thing for torque, which figures when you think of agricultural equipment use. Otherwise, it's indistinguishable from stock, as far as I know. It was easy to acquire six years ago, once I got past the money part. I wasn't shopping specifically for an agricultural one, just a manifold. Oh yeah, it has a dual stud pattern at the outlet flange - two stud or three stud. Nice feature, gives you the option.
Stephen and Lori Young thanks i need to look into a solution as you know too these intake and exhaust manifolds crack. I want to get a nice intake and exhaust combo might go with offnehausser and headers but i heard that they hit the bell crank for the shifter
Doing this on my 73 mercruiser 250 ci GM inline 6 this week it seemed easy enough but wanted to make sure and yep think I'm right. Any torqe specs I should be aware of when tightening back up?
Do u tighten the bolts on the head completly tight b4 u tightn the 3 center bolts or???
Hey check out headers , they do make them for the 250s won't break again
I have seen headers but I also heard they interfere with the clutch linkage or bell crank, is that true?
Thanks for sharing. I have a 1981 Chevy G10 van with an inline 6 250 and auto trans. My manifold looks good but I'm missing a bolt.
I have the same engine in my 67 g 10 van.
Well, that looked like fun. That old manifold was (the technical term, I believe) a hurtin' unit. Been there, done that, much nicer watching it than doing it.
I couldn't remember the spacer/washer placement. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing!!!! It's been a long time since I worked on one of these and I haven't got my 71 home yet so I can;t even get a look at it yet!!! How long did it take you do do this job? The muffler shop in Regina Sk. want $250 plus tax for gasket and donut replacement, which I think is very pricey !!!! Thks !!!
About 3 hours I think. It's a simple enough job.
@@novelist10 HANK YOU !!
I have a exhaust manifold with two outlets will a manifold with single outlet fit
thank you bro
Bout to do mine tomorrow. I have a little crack but dont know if it's a problem. But gonna replace it anyway
You forgot to show the installation procedure....
Well done sir!!!!
does anybody know if the intake bolts in the rear of the motor thread into a coolant passage ?
MMS & Accessories, inc. Has stainless hold down exhaust manifold clamps
Do you have any leads on a used intake manifold and power steering brackets. i have a 72 C-10 250
Ebay all day they have alot for sale
Thanks you...
I need a manifold
Those 2 exhaust bolts would have been easy with a torch to warm them up.
Take that fire glass filter off u will blow up your car
christopher cruz really I have one what should I replace it with
Had my truck in my shop for 9 months while I leisurely rebuilt the front end. Since it hadn't been started in all that time I purposely didn't choke it so it would build oil pressure before firing up cranked it about 40 seconds then applied choke and she fired right off. I backed up just enough to have the exhaust out the door and got out to look at and listen to the engine and noticed liquid on the floor then smelled it was gas! Ran back to the cab and shut down the engine but in that short time that filter leaked about 2 quarts all over the passenger side of the engine, filled the 2 channels on the main crossmember and the rest was pooling on the floor and running down the driveway. Luckily I had no source of ignition or I'd have been toast. Those filters have a gasket on both sides of the glass tube and after months of non use the fuel had drained back and the gaskets dried out. If I had just had the hood closed and backed out and went for a drive I can't imagine. I agree just buy a steel filter and change it out every 2 or three years if your truck acts like it's starving.
@@effgee5102 Do you know about the filter inside the carb, just at the inlet? An external one shouldn't be needed. I haven't used one of the glass ones, but I like the idea of being able to see whether gas is getting there. I take your warning seriously, and am glad this turned out OK for you. And your truck.
@@stephenandloriyoung5716 My carb is an Edelbrock 1400 series, they don't have an internal filter, luckily they also require a regulator inline before the carb, for that reason I had mounted my filter on the passenger side otherwise when it was leaking it would have been all over the exhaust (chevy 292).
@@effgee5102 Ah, so. I see. Remember the old glass bowl fuel filters? I think I may have one somewhere.
You didn’t show how to do the install.