(050) Schlage F Series Grade 2 key in knob picked and gutted
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- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2024
- The Schlage F-Series uses a very unusual cylinder design which means that the driver pins in every chamber are T-pins which really complicate picking. For a $40 hardware store purchase it is a pretty good lock set and the cylinder is a challenging pick.
A really great explaination of the lock and its mechanism. Great picking too. Inspirational
Finally a good video for picking the compressible Schlage cylinder. Millions of these exist everywhere in the US and Canada and nobody on RUclips wants to pick them on video?? I’m a locksmith who deals with these all the time. They can be a nightmare to pick especially with the newer typical Schlage key bitting. When I first began in this trade Schlage used a #3 pin as the shortest in residential lock sets. Now they use 1&2 pins with a MAC number at 7. The top pins are under higher pressure than you find in any other residential lock I found. I normally give myself a 15 minute limit then breakout the drill.. I also made myself a tool to pry up the front pin to pop the compressible cap off to blowup the lock in the knob which will then lessen the pressure on the top pins which can then be more easily picked.. I never been able to open these with conventual pick guns because of the tension on the pins. Thanks for the Video I hope you do more on these cylinders with more Radical bittings..
I have found that attempting to bump these or use snappers/pick guns tends to result in blowing the caps off, at which point you can easily rake any remaining pins out (and of course now there are commercially produced tools for popping those caps off) at which point you can easily replace the pins or pin the cylinder to a new key as long as you have the necessary cover, top pins, and springs.
Nite 0wl.. I never bumped a cap off. I don’t even try any concussion methods anymore. Low odds of success. I try picking first and then prying the front pins to try to pop the cap.
After my mom passed, I was left with bags of really cool stuff that was packed up with her stuff. Had no idea what it was, little springs and tiny round barrels all metal. A dead give away was the inside of numerous locks, some with others without keys. I remember my dad making all of the locks to our home, cottage and to my marital home work with the same key. Thanks for dismantling the lock. Maybe I will learn how to do more of the challenges my dad left me!! Even though I am left handed. Don't see many women ou your sites either. Need tips for hairpins, once I can get more than one lock open!
Always interesting to hunt through bags like that. Bet you ended up reinventing a few old locksmithing techniques to get it all working.
I always keep my kit with me, so if I have a free moment I practice. Been so busy closing her estate. Thanks for asking.
Very intresting picking and gutting nice breakdown of the lock
With F series you can pick it to the locked position and depress the retainer on the side to remove the knob then turn the lock mechanism with pliers or tweezers back to the unlocked position.
I always found F series difficult to pick, they act weird depending on the lock, sometimes I can rake it once with a diamond pick and it opens, sometimes I can spend an hour and not even get it open lol
interesting, not sure what series of Schlage knob i am currently working on but its HARD.... this explains a bit, i'll put it on hold and work on something else.
I have picked open an F series core before, but it was a little bit ago. I ended up using the core/plug in a random kik cylinder I had to key up a new lock for my Emtek key I got from Bosnianbill.
The compressible F series cylinder will usually work in almost any other KiK housing, but the newer F series models will only accept the compressible cylinders unless you do some modifications to the knob and spindle.
when you said you picked the lock the knob still wouldn't spin. I don't understand. I new to this, I have been practicing on my door at home and I can get the core to spin but not the knob. Is there another step that I am missing?
I have not yet encounter a compressible cylinder. As I consistently tend to drop parts, I should get some parts on order.
good job. i broke one of the picking tools inside the door knob, i hust cant get it out. i purchase a new door knob instead.
How do you remove the spindle from the chassis on a Schlage F-Series? I have passage unit that I want to modify to work with some vintage glass knobs, but I can't figure out how to remove the spindle. Thanks!
+Andrew Miller You can dismount the knobs from the spindle by using a thick wire pin (like the Schlage Privacy Function override tool) or a small screwdriver/awl. Insert the tool into the small hole on the shaft of the handle, near the escutcheon. You should feel a slightly springy lever inside. Press in on the lever (you may have to press hard to over come the resistance on very new or heavilly soiled handlesets) and you should feel a small click, the handle should now slide off the shaft. Repeat on the other handle.
The chassis is not designed to be disassembled but it may be possible to do so with a little light prying.
did you try and bump it? how do you make a lock bump proof?
+JB I did try to bump it, it was quite difficult. Preventing bumping requires messing with the physics of the lock, so varying the spring strengths from chamber to chamber (say add one extra strong spring and one weaker spring) and replacing one or two of the driver pins with T pins (especially paired with those extra strong springs), Ilco even makes a kit for doing this in the field. There are other methods but those usually require specially made pins and modifications to the lock body and I have seen reports that they are not as effective.
you think it's better to put a wafers in making it full of drunken spools. I would like to see the picking time difference. the tpins supposed to stop bumping or is that just the ilco halt pin which I have but don't know how to use properly. 10 ilco bump halt spring & pin sets came with my high security pinning kits. only thing it says it's better security if you use two of them. I don't know squat about bump pins and those crazy Springs that come with them. f series t pins I believe came in a kit also. basically how do you use ilco bump pin and spring and using schlage t pins with a wafer or 2 tpins together front to back or front to front. what's the best and how do we do it? sounds like a t pin experiment .
Ilco Bump-Halt T pins and Sclage F-Series T pins are normally installed in the same manner, narrow shaft towards the springs. In both cases using them in standard lock bodies cause them to both interfere with bumping (2 per cylinder is usually sufficient) but they will also act like spool or Mushroom pins in a picking attempt. The bump-halt springs help interfere with bumping by screwing with the timing and physics of bumping, strong springs plus low mass pins mean they loose their kinetic energy sooner than high mass pins with weak springs thus altering the timing of a bump attempt. Bump halt's high strength springs can slightly complicate picking by adding resistance but the difference is negligible to a skilled picker. The Schlage F-Series T pins are excellent candidates for making drunken spools, either stack them shaft to shaft or shaft atop wafer, just try to make sure the wafers are thick enough to not rotate in their chambers or you may get jams.
+Nite 0wl I got my security pin set Saturday I am expecting my LAB WEDGE pinning KIT in a few days. it should have plenty of wafers, let me know if you need any pins.
I am well stocked with an HPC Yale pin kit for experimental work, once I get enough Schlage and Corbin tail pieces to rebuild all my spare cylinders I may need some more versatile pins but that is proving difficult.
+Nite 0wl I am trying to get my supplier to order some custom made keypins of all sizes and foreign security pins.
+Nite 0wl what kinds are you looking for ,I got a good supplier and supply
promote all my locksmith buddies tell me it don't matter what you have for a lock because they're going to kick the door in anyway
That is why having a good deadbolt with at least a 3/4" to 1" throw and strikes secured with 3" screws is important.
@@Nite0wl Fantastic content. And you explain most anything very succinctly. We. Need. More. Thank you for sharing the information.
the F series are not my favorite lock to work on...lol.
understandably. There is a good reason why I left out the reassembly.
+Nite 0wl +Nite 0wl I don't know if you have an account to a restricted supplier or not but if not
I have a account so if you need something let me know
Nothing else matters