Tip: Decant each into 2x 15ml dropper bottles. The pipette is useful for a clean transfer and your inks will now be crash resistant and will fit in your collection better.
@@WhispersfromtheWarp ok i thought i should use alcohol. Does water create droplets on the plastic? I guess you need a coat of primer. Sorry if I speak badly, I am French.
Looking forwards to your ink comparison review. I use a lot of these, can be bought very cheaply from just about any UK art store. As well as using them neat-ish, a few drops mixed with acrylic medium, flow aid and water makes a really good wash.
I use these a lot, as well as the Liquitex line. In the FW I'm a big fan of Antelope. Makes a great wash with a tiny bit of water, gives a very slightly greenish brown. Excellent for wood.
Excellent, I don't have that color yet, I will have to check that one out! Sounds like my kind of color, as I love those darker, muddy, green-brown tones.
14:25 if you paint with a brush probably, but I bought the white as per your recommendation (this video ;)) and it is the first bottle I have emptied after returning to the hobby 3 years ago.
So today i got few FW inks. for a few weeks i was strugling to keep painting...This evening I lost track of time trying them. Thanks for showing this product.
Founds these after a Sam lenz video. I think they are great. Love them to "thin" paints and such. Amazing through the airbrush. I've found the raw sienna one to be really cool with gold metallics.
I should have mentioned the value packs, that is a good catch. I don't have a Hobby Lobby near me, so I didn't have any insight into their prices, but it sounds like that's a great way to go.
An interesting review, I have seen that there are Spanish dealers that have the full line in stock at good prices(around 6 Euro each, BarnaArt). Now they are in my shopping list.
I picked some of these up at Blicks to make washes with. Combined with some matt medium and water the Sepia works very well. Make sure you read the labels on the bottles or you'll get some pearlescent colors in your collection (like me, lol). I haven't added any directly to paint but you've given me some ideas to experiment with.
Awesome, I will have to give your trick a try and I will say I love mixing them with paints, excellent way to get thinned, well flowing but strong paint. Thanks for watching and commenting. :)
Vince...I just watched this product review and love the options available with acrylic inks. I have previously purchased a bottle of FW Ink but had not tried it yet but will do so tomorrow. Thanks for sharing your experience with the product. John
09:22 that's a great idea! I have the hardest time thinning Army painter paints. Next time I will thin them by using these things inks! Thank you Vince!
The last time I bought some it was at Hobby Lobby and they were under 5 bucks a bottle. I have a lot of them and never spent more than that here. I love them!! I have been using them for a couple years or more. LOVE THEM... I think they have a great flesh tone... Thanks for the review.
Vince Venturella Hi Vince love the review. The "Michaels" brand of art store also carries them at $5-7 per bottle (in case you have one of those close,)
I love these inks SO MUCH - my Halloween army is painted 90% with these! They do not fit on my nail polish racks, so I have them on a turntable on my desk, nice and close. Note - all the skin "effects" on my zombie hulk were painted with Liquitex Muted range inks - amazing colours, well worth a look.
I have a single rack with some very deep shelves, so that is the one they fit on. I will have to look into the liquitex muted range because I love the colors you achieved.
13:00 the inks can also prevent that powdery look if you use them instead of paint, because of how small the droplets will be if you shoot them trough the airbrush especially at a higher pressure. Higher pressure and thinning will minimize the "airbrush" look either way. For a higher pressure (e.g. 2.5 bar), you do need better trigger control which can be trained of course.
6:47 I suspect that's because they add some kind of flow improver to the ink. It would help with using it with a pen as well (I assume it's main intended purpose).
I feel similarly about Dr P. H. Martin's Bombay India Ink. Picking up their two base sets of ink was huge for me and I use them on almost everything I paint. the only thing I don't like about them is that some colors have really bad separation issues (mostly browns, yellows, and white).
caution dr ph martins are not lightfast they were intended for graphic design and illustration pieces that were photographed and the original art stored away, not displayed
I've been using these for over a year. I don't use them too often as I found that they can be water soluble after drying. Still a useful product if you can get the technique down.
Great stuff bud :-) I just order the basic set myself to go along with my airbrush. Marco Frisoni really brought them to my attention over the last two years since he uses them so much, He uses them with metallic as well and they looks mind blowing Check out his latest video to see some of the best uses of them, he does the same with contrast paints (basically inks as well with extra mediums added)
Started playing around with some Golden, Liquitex and Talens which I used for portrait work and never looked back! Never tried the FW inks tho, how are they as far as the finish, color bleed and reactivation? those are the 3 common issues I've found with other inks tho you can easily work around it with some matt varnish and making sure they dried properly
Don't have any issue with color bleed and for the most part they are matte smooth finish. The Orange has a slight sheen to it, but nothing that varnish can't remove. I have never had a problem with reactivation, but I tend to work areas to completion then move to the next area, and when done, varnish everything, so I could be dodging that problem with process.
Hi Vince, I was wondering if I can put this stuff on my wet palette or if I should use it on a dry one. Will it just seep through or damage the sponge? What are your experiences?
I use it on a wet palette. It will occasionally seep through and stain the sponge, but no permanent damage. It doesn't damage the ink in any way or hurt the palette, just don't let it run off the side, or you'll have a real mess. :)
I would never use GW White Scar for anything. ;) - That being said, I might mix it with something like Apothecary White the contrast paint, that could give a nice light shadow grey paint. Then use the ink straight as a highlight.
??? Help!...I screwed up and bought several of the Daler Rowney Watercolor Inks. I did (by accident) buy the Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Black ink. The Acrylic Ink is MUCH MORE OPAQUE. I'm thinking I can use the Daler Rowney Watercolor Inks to thin and tint some Vallejo paints? Or did I just waste a trip & money? Thanks Vince!!❤💛💙 PS: I sent an inquiry about this to Daler Rowney, asking if they'll be safe to mix with thin, pigment rich model acrylics, if I need to spray lightly with matte varnish afterward. I'll let you know their response if I hear back. The Daler Rowney Aquafine Watercolor inks ARE pigment based (not dye-based), apparently are not terribly light sensitive to the same degree as the FW Acrylic Inks. I'm pretty sure using the Aquafine Inks would be a disaster if used directly on a model without mixing with acrylic paint first. But I'm hoping if I mix with acrylics and allow extra dry time, I'll still be able to protect with matte varnish. We'll see, otherwise I guess I'm saving these for something else. I managed to toss my receipt😥😢😭 PPS: I'm only brushing my paints on, not ready to start airbrushing yet. Won't be using the Aquafine Watercolor inks for airbrush.
Yeah, I looked into these and they don't have acrylic binder, so the challenge here is that anytime you touch them with water, they will basically reactivate. There are ways to use such tools, but it's REALLY challenging. You may be able to mix in some acrylic medium, but my honest and unfortunate answer is - yeah, you got the wrong thing.
You can buy virtually any art/mini painting supplies cheaper almost goddamn anywhere than Amazon. Yeah like i want to spend triple the msrp just for the privilege of giving Bezos my money. Fucking Amazon.
@@VinceVenturella I know this is an old comment but I got one of the 6 pack sets on clearance from HL for 12 dollars some time last month. I'm using them for drawing all this month.
would the white ink be a good alternative to white paint for zenithal priming? seems like my white paint always comes out 'dotty'... sandy, might be a good word... you vids are incredible... thank you for taking the time to explain things like i'm 4... VERY helpful!
Question: I ordered some of these inks and they are great, especially the white and Payne’s grey. However, the Velvet Violet turns out to not be for airbrush use due to the metallic flakes in it. The Daler Rowney site doesn’t mention its incompatibility nor could I find any forums mentioning this, so I want to know if there’s any other of the Acrylic Ink colors that also not for airbrush. These inks are amazing and your airbrush integration video really made me like them even more.
Hi Vince, I've noticed their black never comes up. Is there a specific reason for this? Is it as simple as Payne's Grey being more interesting or useful?
Hey Vince, fantastic videos. So setting everything up after watching your brush selection videos , got 2 8404 in 2 2/0 (would you suggest smaller for 28mm? Models?) Then for metallics I grabbed some cotmans as to not shred the sables For base coating just got a bigger 4-6 synthetic of a good quality Now for washes, gw shades , Vallejo inks and the daler rowney inks do you suggest a synthetic like the cotman of a little higher quality ? Or using the good brushes for them ? It looks like you’re using the 8404 in this video but I’m assuming you’re confident enough using both to not foul up the ferrule and I should take other precautions until I’m accustomed. I appreciate any advice you can offer , and if any of the other brush choices seem silly , yell at me ! Thanks for all the great videos
Vince Venturella I use whole line as my basic paint set with this as help instagram.com/p/BYOpid6B1WC/ I bought few GW paints and found same colours in these mixes ;)
How much shaking do you need to with inks? They seem easier, faster than paint. I haven't invested in a lab mixer yet. (And I don't have a Sawzall or Jigsaw either, but considering that for paint mixing🤣🤣🤣). Dual purpose is always good...💥
Inks are valuable because of the transparent pigment, they generally allow you to work with glazes easier. It's easier to do tints and color transitions and they are a dream through the airbrush.
You used watered down Payne’s Grey to darken the shadow on the blue piggy. Would the Payne’s Grey work to do that with other colors or were you using that specific ink because the piggy was blue?
I used these FW inks a few times they are pricey but a little bit goes a long way. I was wondering if you discovered these. They are a must have for the serious miniature painter.
I am still learning my craft, but I have been improving. Videos such as yours have been a huge help over the past 8 months. I have not really delved into inks yet, but I would love to give them a try. I noticed on the bottles they say "water resistant." Does that mean that cleaning the brushes requires a special thinner or do I still use water and my masters brush soap? And thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming.
Vince, have you tried the shimmering or pearlescent FW inks? Can we airbrush with those as well, or does the mica particles in those inks wreak havoc on the needle?
Never really tried it. I am sure it goes through just fine, it would be something you'd want to make sure you have a good cleaning for the airbrush afterward.
I've been using Dr. PH Martin's Bombay white ink, and I've noticed it's very liquidy. Meaning that I have to put more than one layer of it onto of my artwork. Is FW Acrylic White ink any different, and if so, is it thicker in covering up my inking mistakes?
No ink is going to be highly opaque, the liquid pigment will always keep it somewhat translucent. That being said, I do think FW is better in that regard than PH Martin.
So I just ordered my first bottle of white FW ink. If I add it to a paint to lighten it, will it also make it more opaque or more transparent? Because if I’m learning correctly inks make the colour of the acrylic paint they’re added to more transparent, albeit maybe more saturated as well, right?
If you add it to white paint, you will get a more flowing white paint that likely won't really be much different in coverage, that depends highly on brand. There is no one rule for this, because it depends on the pigments in question. If you mix it with a very transparent color, like a purple, it will be much more opaque than the lower layer. Inks in general are often more transparent because of the liquid pigment, but again, it depends on the particular mixture of pigments.
@@VinceVenturella Perfectly clear thank you sir. Look forward to experimenting with some inks. (Also ordered the Vallejo game ink set per your recommendation as well!)
nice review Vince, I would agree the white is excellent for coverage. Although I had the same trouble with it as I did with the Liquitex white ink in that it got small bits in it of pigment that just doesn't mix back well int. Can make airbrushing with it diabolical. Had any trouble yourself with the white inks like this and any fixes you can recommend?
Hi Vince! I hope you have time to answer this: what's the best acrylic ink for minies in your opinion? Liquitex or Daley Rowney? I can't but single bottles for test, and I'll go for bunch, but I thought asking you would have been my best choice :)
Hello Vince. I'm now the proud owner of White, Paynes Grey, Black and Umber. Which Hobby Cheating should I watch besides this one? Or do you have one in the making on using FW Inks? Best Regards and Seasons Greetings, Peter. Glædelig jul og Godt Nytår.
This is pretty much the video on it, though you'll see me use it all the time in my various tutorials (If you want a good single example, check out the detailed freehand video or maybe drawing sharp thin lines).
I've been trying to make a Citadel Shades (washes) To Daler Rowney FW compatibility chart and I've been having a hard time of it going on the web and comparing colors etc Like I don't know which yelloe Daler Rowney FW Washes correspond to the Citadel Casandora Yelllow wash, is it Process Yellow, Lemon Yellow or Process Yellow. I think for say Drakenhof Nightshade it's Rowney Blue and for Agrax Earthshade it's Antelope Brown but I'm not certain. But I had to take a wild guess for Seraphim Sepia as being Raw Sienna and Reiken Fleshade as Red Earth. I could be totally wrong, I'm not ordering until I am more certain.
Thanks for a great vid, as usual. 2 comments: checking D-R inks at Jackson's, I have come across their "system 3" range. They too seem like acrylic inks. Any idea how they compare to the FW range? Also, I for one hear "dollaroni" when you say "Daler Rowney", which in my head sounds like a make-believe rich Italian family (possibly a crazy translation of "Scrooge McDuck"... "Dollaroni McAnatra")
That mispronunciation is not surprising, I am terrible at pronouncing things. I don't have any experience with the System 3 range, it seems like it might not have the same water resistance, which could be a challenge.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, sir. By the way, I keep marveling at how quickly you will reply to a random comment from a Spaniard on a 4 year old video. You are a star!
Nice video. I've actually watched it several times, just to make sure I got it all :) I have a bunch of Liquitex inks that I want to use through my airbrush, especially a white for smoother zenithal highlights. Can you give some general advice on how much to thin down the inks when using them for different stuff through the airbrush? Did a 50/50 mix of white ink and thinner today for a zenithal, and I'm not really sure if I thinned it too much or too little. I like the inks a lot, but all in all, I have a hard time figuring out how much I should thin them down. Normal acrylic paint will start to act weird, but I can't figure out if it's the same with inks like FW and Liquitex.
If I'm trying to have some level of coverage, then 1 drop of thinner, to two drops of ink. Then that varies based on if I am trying to glaze or filter i can go up to 6 drops of thinner to 1 drop of ink.
This might be a really stupid question but, could one use black ink intended for a fountain pen? I have a few FW inks, but I don't have a black ink, however my girlfriend does calligraphy and has black ink for that. But I don't really have any models to test it on
In general, they don't have the same consistency and light fastness, water proof-ness (is that a word?) as the artists inks. So the artists inks are made for all of these purposes but calligraphy inks alone may not perform the same and may easily reactivate with later applications of water/paint.
Whatever colors look interesting to you I would say. I like Yellow Ochre and Red Earth for example, but those might not be as valuable to others. The purple and turquoise are also particular favorites.
If you had to choose to use regular paints and glaze medium or inks would you say they are better and would you exclusively use them? Can inks be useful in subtle glazes,highlights? Also is there a big difference in fw and liquidtex? Would you say they are more suited towards shades/washes than highlights?
1) I use both, I tend to use them at different times. Inks are more naturally transparent, so when I am simply trying to tint, I prefer inks, when I am trying to blend, I prefer thinned paints. 2) Not really, both are good. 3) Yes, because it's always easier to thin darker transparent colors and shade colors down, lighter more opaque colors don't thin and glaze well. Hope that all helps. :)
Vince Venturella so if I had a light blue cape for example or an entire model like a space marine I could use inks in thin coats to darken the base coat and highlights with each other? Would the ink go on smoothly just with water or would glaze medium be better? I’ve used glaze medium before just wondering if ink needs it. I made some washes but the semi gloss put me off, besides using matte varnish is there any way to eliminate this? Matte medium doesn’t seem to fix this.
@@Jasonmci92 Yep, you could use inks like that and they will go on smooth if you apply them in a controlled fashion, they are so naturally thin but intense, it's usually not an issue.
Hey Vince, I heard on the Paint Bravely podcast that the white FW ink was poor compared to the Liquitex white but they didn't elaborate. Do you have any preference? Going to pull the trigger on a pot in the next day or so. All the best! /J
Is there a real differrence between these and other brands of Artist's Acrylic Inks? I checked out and my local store only carries Amsterdam Artist's Acrylic Inks
Honestly, I just use water most of the time, a little flow aid can get it going as well, but they are quite easy to thin and work with for the most part.
Hi Vince, I've just acquired and used a few of these inks. They look really good and I like the effect when watered down. I have a question - or rather a request for help. I've used the Sepia one for the first time this week and I found that it dried to a very smooth finish - to the point it was hard to paint over. I'd actually mat-varnished over it, but it only partially seemed to help. (Could be my thinning the varnish too much, or could be the varnish also was "smoothed away" during application.) Have you experienced the same? (It seems you mention their curing to somewhere between mat and satin. For me they were somewhere between satin and gloss.) Could it be I'm doing something wrong, or tht I can improve? How would you handle post-processing if you want to paint some details over after the ink? Thanks for your help!
So I will say I use the sepia often and thin it frequently and never had that challenge. I certainly believe you, I just haven't experienced it. Thinking it through, the sepia separates rather easily, so you may want to make sure you are really giving it a good shake. The other option would be to thin it with an additive like some flow improver and see if that helps. I paint over the inks most of the time, so I know it can be done, hope that helps some.:)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! There's a definite possibility I hadn't shaken the bottle enough, or forgot (for that first test) to empty the "dropper" (the thing with which you take the ink out?) so I'll watch out for it. It'd definitely not be good for free handing over the white, and I was indeed trusting you've been using it. Thanks for sharing the tips.
Lol, are these capable of wet blending? I ask because I think I accidentally taught myself how to wet blend on the model with white and Payne's. Unthinned they stay super workable for a while.
Absolutely, as long as you have a reasonable tone underneath, you can certainly wet blend with them. I have used the colors you are mentioning for a quick NMM.
@@VinceVenturella oh I had your standard zenithal underneath - haven't painted on anything else since I saw HC1 like 100 days ago. I could be your biggest fanboi at the moment lol. I was pretty sure they could wb...I just needed to read it. It was bizarre accomplishing it for the first time without actively thinking about doing it. I was just paintin'. Tried earlier the same night with some scale color in a more deliberate fashion and many things went wrong lol.
@@brkfstfd The zenithal would be perfect for something like NMM, now if you were doing a red cape and had some red and purple ink, you may want to have the area be a light red first, but it's not absolutely necessary. :)
@@VinceVenturella it is a red cloak lol...I actually glazed over the white and Payne's with warcolours red 3 this morning... and yeah it only looks ok (for now! :D)...It never occurred to me to use my red and purple fw...:/ Do you show this nmm technique, specifically this one, in any of the videos? I've yet to be bold enough to try nmm even once. Not scared... just been all in on specifically undershading basics for 12 weeks hehe...you made me switch literally everything I was doing up! :P Well not everything. I had a wet pallet.
Thanks for the video. I really like your cheating serial :) May I ask you if you had any trouble by painting over ink. I heard 1st layer ink might come over a 2nd layer of paint applied after, changing the color of the paint. Did that already happen to you?
@@VinceVenturella Thank for you answer. Let's say I'm priming my mini and then apply ink+medium to kind of emulate the effect of the contrast paint. So your advise would to varnish before applying other layer of paint if I wan to had some more color? Are you using ink on minis for wash ? Have you ever test sennelier abstract ink? there is some in my area it's single pigment?
@@VinceVenturella ho! Ok thank you. I wasn't thinking we could paint on varnish. I'm getting in the mini paintaing, but from boardgame view and not warhammer style view and I'm trying to find a way to pull the most of the money I will spend in. And acrylique ink might be something that can be worth to get.
I am now running to the ink store. I didn't like inktensity and still use some VERY ancient ink. I rally like the look of this. And the white looks genius!
hey vince have you ever tried liquitex inks? where I live is the only ink available, it's pretty expensive wonder if it worth the try or should try to get imported FW?
Hey Vince...can you glaze using the FW White ink? If so, any tips for that? I like to glaze a lot of final highlights in white, but it gets chalky or otherwise breaks down very easily.
So here are some thoughts. 1) White doesn't glaze well in general, use alternate colors for your highlights such as Ice Yellow or Glacer blue. 2) If you are trying to apply thin white, yes, the ink can do it, but you generally want to thin with a little medium instead of just water. 3) Gloss varnish is a good tool to stop white chalkieness, it reflects white light and well white paint is white, so there you go. 4) Mix some of the ink with a little Heavy Body Acrylic titanium white. You get a much creamier white out of an HBA.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I have watched your working with white video, and it has helped a lot. I'm experimenting now with the FW ink and using Vallejo Glaze Medium and Liquitex Matte Medium. I'm working with a light blue as my base, so I kind of need to go up to white on these models (Seraphon Skinks).
@@VinceVenturella I did some experiments with the ink, but found some problems with the flow characteristics and the pigment breaking down when thinned, even using medium for thinning. The answer turned out to be my trusty tube of Golden Titanium White heavy body. It's not really transparent enough to glaze, but it goes on so smoothly when thinned that it forms nice highlights on my Pale Blue Skinks. Thanks for the help!
Depends on the color. The white is very flat, but some of the darker colors are more satin and can get more glossy if thinned. In any case though, you can flatten them out easy enough with AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish.
Tip: Decant each into 2x 15ml dropper bottles. The pipette is useful for a clean transfer and your inks will now be crash resistant and will fit in your collection better.
Good tip!
Thanks for this review, Vince! This gives me tons of fun ideas :-)
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Man Vince, I’ve learned more from your videos than any workshop, class or Patreon subscription I’ve paid to be a part of. Inspiring content as usual.
Thank you, that is very much appreciated and always happy to assist.
i just started using these for airbrush and shading...they are great
Awesome, happy to help. :)
Do you use thinner for ink dilution or just ink. pression and needle ?
@@titithierry920 very little, just water...but if you want to town down the color use more. they are very powerful
@@WhispersfromtheWarp ok i thought i should use alcohol.
Does water create droplets on the plastic?
I guess you need a coat of primer.
Sorry if I speak badly, I am French.
@@titithierry920 no no use water, its acrylic based. you can thin these quite a bit without breaking/speckle paint
Thank you for explaining this. I asked the question about white in a live session and you were very gracious because it was here all along
No problem, always happy to help.
I have been using these for several years now and i love them. Thanks for another great video.
Thank you, they have been wonderful for me, I wanted to make sure more people gave them a try.
I know it's an old video but thank you for this concise review. I bought white, c y & m, and flame orange today. Excited to paint with them!
They are wonderful and I use them all the time to this day.
Looking forwards to your ink comparison review. I use a lot of these, can be bought very cheaply from just about any UK art store. As well as using them neat-ish, a few drops mixed with acrylic medium, flow aid and water makes a really good wash.
Yep, they are great in so many ways, maybe I need a hobby cheating on all the ways to utilize inks.
Vince Venturella please do! We noobs really need that!
I use these a lot, as well as the Liquitex line. In the FW I'm a big fan of Antelope. Makes a great wash with a tiny bit of water, gives a very slightly greenish brown. Excellent for wood.
Excellent, I don't have that color yet, I will have to check that one out! Sounds like my kind of color, as I love those darker, muddy, green-brown tones.
14:25 if you paint with a brush probably, but I bought the white as per your recommendation (this video ;)) and it is the first bottle I have emptied after returning to the hobby 3 years ago.
Yes, I have personally gone through 2 bottles. ;)
I learn something new from each of your videos. Thank you for sharing with us!
You're welcome, happy to help. :)
Been using these inks for years. I couldn't imagine painting without them! Great video!
Thank you, very much appreciated.
So today i got few FW inks. for a few weeks i was strugling to keep painting...This evening I lost track of time trying them. Thanks for showing this product.
They really are amazing.
Founds these after a Sam lenz video. I think they are great. Love them to "thin" paints and such. Amazing through the airbrush. I've found the raw sienna one to be really cool with gold metallics.
Excellent, I haven't tried that color yet (I naturally went for all the teal/greens because you know me), but I will have to look for that too.
Vince you can get them at hobby lobby for 5-7 each not counting coupon 6 packs are 30 each
I should have mentioned the value packs, that is a good catch. I don't have a Hobby Lobby near me, so I didn't have any insight into their prices, but it sounds like that's a great way to go.
Interesting, especially the gray one. Thanks for the video ;)
Glad to help, I really love the Payne's Grey, wonderful with NMM.
An interesting review, I have seen that there are Spanish dealers that have the full line in stock at good prices(around 6 Euro each, BarnaArt). Now they are in my shopping list.
Awesome, I certainly have no insight into the EU store availability, but it sounds like some good prices for sure.
I picked some of these up at Blicks to make washes with. Combined with some matt medium and water the Sepia works very well. Make sure you read the labels on the bottles or you'll get some pearlescent colors in your collection (like me, lol). I haven't added any directly to paint but you've given me some ideas to experiment with.
Awesome, I will have to give your trick a try and I will say I love mixing them with paints, excellent way to get thinned, well flowing but strong paint. Thanks for watching and commenting. :)
Vince...I just watched this product review and love the options available with acrylic inks. I have previously purchased a bottle of FW Ink but had not tried it yet but will do so tomorrow. Thanks for sharing your experience with the product. John
I love these inks, use them with every project. I think you will love them.
09:22 that's a great idea! I have the hardest time thinning Army painter paints. Next time I will thin them by using these things inks! Thank you Vince!
No issue, always happy to help. :)
Thanks Vince! White ink sounds amazing! Great ground work for any yellow patterns going over dark areas.
Yep, that is exactly how I get yellow on darker areas and it's a life saver.
Vince! Those are absolutly amazing! I was somewhat sceptical but i tried white one and those ore outstanding. Great advice sir!
Yep, it's just fantastic, I love that white and use it all the time. So smooth.
schmike brand has a transparent zinc white I believe
Good call.
The last time I bought some it was at Hobby Lobby and they were under 5 bucks a bottle. I have a lot of them and never spent more than that here. I love them!! I have been using them for a couple years or more. LOVE THEM... I think they have a great flesh tone... Thanks for the review.
I will have to check out the flesh tone. I don't have a hobby lobby near me, so I have no insight on that one.
Vince Venturella. I think if you get them online through Dick Blick they are cheaper than that. And sometimes free shipping.
Vince Venturella Hi Vince love the review. The "Michaels" brand of art store also carries them at $5-7 per bottle (in case you have one of those close,)
Started using this and this stuff is awesome.
Thanks !
Great to hear! :)
I love these inks SO MUCH - my Halloween army is painted 90% with these! They do not fit on my nail polish racks, so I have them on a turntable on my desk, nice and close. Note - all the skin "effects" on my zombie hulk were painted with Liquitex Muted range inks - amazing colours, well worth a look.
I have a single rack with some very deep shelves, so that is the one they fit on. I will have to look into the liquitex muted range because I love the colors you achieved.
13:00 the inks can also prevent that powdery look if you use them instead of paint, because of how small the droplets will be if you shoot them trough the airbrush especially at a higher pressure. Higher pressure and thinning will minimize the "airbrush" look either way. For a higher pressure (e.g. 2.5 bar), you do need better trigger control which can be trained of course.
100%, it s a real strength.
Never used a lot of inks, on my list now though. The white may solve my issues with the helmets on my Sternguard. Thanks for another great video.
It really is great for a clean, smooth white.
6:47 I suspect that's because they add some kind of flow improver to the ink. It would help with using it with a pen as well (I assume it's main intended purpose).
I believe so.
I feel similarly about Dr P. H. Martin's Bombay India Ink. Picking up their two base sets of ink was huge for me and I use them on almost everything I paint. the only thing I don't like about them is that some colors have really bad separation issues (mostly browns, yellows, and white).
XnFM Yeah I primarily use the darker colors in the FW ink line.
caution dr ph martins are not lightfast they were intended for graphic design and illustration pieces that were photographed and the original art stored away, not displayed
@@joek600 that’s not the information I found. They appear to be lightfast.
I've been using these for over a year. I don't use them too often as I found that they can be water soluble after drying. Still a useful product if you can get the technique down.
Also, Windsor-Newton inks have a very nice pastel appearance over zenithal highlighting.
I will have to add those to the repertoire and give them a chance.
Great stuff bud :-) I just order the basic set myself to go along with my airbrush. Marco Frisoni really brought them to my attention over the last two years since he uses them so much, He uses them with metallic as well and they looks mind blowing Check out his latest video to see some of the best uses of them, he does the same with contrast paints (basically inks as well with extra mediums added)
Yep, they are really versatile.
Vince Would love to see a video running through all your favorite technical paints ie all that’s not just normal paint
Seems like a good video, it would be a long one. ;)
@@VinceVenturella FW white and the pale blue are amazing.
Started playing around with some Golden, Liquitex and Talens which I used for portrait work and never looked back! Never tried the FW inks tho, how are they as far as the finish, color bleed and reactivation? those are the 3 common issues I've found with other inks tho you can easily work around it with some matt varnish and making sure they dried properly
Don't have any issue with color bleed and for the most part they are matte smooth finish. The Orange has a slight sheen to it, but nothing that varnish can't remove. I have never had a problem with reactivation, but I tend to work areas to completion then move to the next area, and when done, varnish everything, so I could be dodging that problem with process.
Dick Blick sells these online for $5.13 per 1oz bottle and typically runs free shipping for orders over $35.
nice, good tip and that's a solid price for sure.
paynes grey also that universal shade color!!!
Yes indeed. :)
Hi Vince, I was wondering if I can put this stuff on my wet palette or if I should use it on a dry one. Will it just seep through or damage the sponge? What are your experiences?
I use it on a wet palette. It will occasionally seep through and stain the sponge, but no permanent damage. It doesn't damage the ink in any way or hurt the palette, just don't let it run off the side, or you'll have a real mess. :)
@@VinceVenturella alright, thanks for your answer!
Bingo Vince. I tried..love em
Good to hear :)
Use the ink straight or mix with GW white scar for white scars
I would never use GW White Scar for anything. ;) - That being said, I might mix it with something like Apothecary White the contrast paint, that could give a nice light shadow grey paint. Then use the ink straight as a highlight.
??? Help!...I screwed up and bought several of the Daler Rowney Watercolor Inks. I did (by accident) buy the Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Black ink. The Acrylic Ink is MUCH MORE OPAQUE. I'm thinking I can use the Daler Rowney Watercolor Inks to thin and tint some Vallejo paints? Or did I just waste a trip & money? Thanks Vince!!❤💛💙
PS: I sent an inquiry about this to Daler Rowney, asking if they'll be safe to mix with thin, pigment rich model acrylics, if I need to spray lightly with matte varnish afterward. I'll let you know their response if I hear back. The Daler Rowney Aquafine Watercolor inks ARE pigment based (not dye-based), apparently are not terribly light sensitive to the same degree as the FW Acrylic Inks. I'm pretty sure using the Aquafine Inks would be a disaster if used directly on a model without mixing with acrylic paint first. But I'm hoping if I mix with acrylics and allow extra dry time, I'll still be able to protect with matte varnish. We'll see, otherwise I guess I'm saving these for something else. I managed to toss my receipt😥😢😭
PPS: I'm only brushing my paints on, not ready to start airbrushing yet. Won't be using the Aquafine Watercolor inks for airbrush.
Yeah, I looked into these and they don't have acrylic binder, so the challenge here is that anytime you touch them with water, they will basically reactivate. There are ways to use such tools, but it's REALLY challenging. You may be able to mix in some acrylic medium, but my honest and unfortunate answer is - yeah, you got the wrong thing.
You can buy these at Walmart, Hobby Lobby, and Micheal's carries a similar line for cheaper than Amazon.
Good to know, I know Hobby Lobby recently stopped carrying them and cleared them out, but that just meant an amazing deal for many. :)
You can buy virtually any art/mini painting supplies cheaper almost goddamn anywhere than Amazon. Yeah like i want to spend triple the msrp just for the privilege of giving Bezos my money. Fucking Amazon.
@@VinceVenturella I know this is an old comment but I got one of the 6 pack sets on clearance from HL for 12 dollars some time last month. I'm using them for drawing all this month.
would the white ink be a good alternative to white paint for zenithal priming?
seems like my white paint always comes out 'dotty'... sandy, might be a good word...
you vids are incredible... thank you for taking the time to explain things like i'm 4...
VERY helpful!
Yes, absolutely
Fantastic summary! since they’re glossy or satin, is there an ink matte medium? normal matte medium is thick
Just an ultra matte varnish afterward will solve the issue. :)
Question: I ordered some of these inks and they are great, especially the white and Payne’s grey. However, the Velvet Violet turns out to not be for airbrush use due to the metallic flakes in it. The Daler Rowney site doesn’t mention its incompatibility nor could I find any forums mentioning this, so I want to know if there’s any other of the Acrylic Ink colors that also not for airbrush.
These inks are amazing and your airbrush integration video really made me like them even more.
I think the ones that don't work are the ones with metal flakes for the pearlescent effect.
Just bought these from Blicks, 5.55 ea! Plus free shipping over 35.00!!
Completely worth it, I just ordered a replacement for a few today.
Hi Vince, I've noticed their black never comes up. Is there a specific reason for this? Is it as simple as Payne's Grey being more interesting or useful?
Yeah, the Payne's Grey is just such a great replacement for ever using true black.
Hey Vince, fantastic videos. So setting everything up after watching your brush selection videos , got 2 8404 in 2 2/0 (would you suggest smaller for 28mm? Models?)
Then for metallics I grabbed some cotmans as to not shred the sables
For base coating just got a bigger 4-6 synthetic of a good quality
Now for washes, gw shades , Vallejo inks and the daler rowney inks do you suggest a synthetic like the cotman of a little higher quality ? Or using the good brushes for them ? It looks like you’re using the 8404 in this video but I’m assuming you’re confident enough using both to not foul up the ferrule and I should take other precautions until I’m accustomed.
I appreciate any advice you can offer , and if any of the other brush choices seem silly , yell at me ! Thanks for all the great videos
I really recommend checking out Vallejo Artist Inks line same size, looks like they work same way but for 4-5 $ per pot :D
Yep, I like those as well, I have most lines inks and I use almost all of them, but I wanted to highlight these as I thought many would be unfamiliar.
Vince Venturella I use whole line as my basic paint set with this as help instagram.com/p/BYOpid6B1WC/ I bought few GW paints and found same colours in these mixes ;)
How much shaking do you need to with inks? They seem easier, faster than paint. I haven't invested in a lab mixer yet.
(And I don't have a Sawzall or Jigsaw either, but considering that for paint mixing🤣🤣🤣). Dual purpose is always good...💥
Inks are valuable because of the transparent pigment, they generally allow you to work with glazes easier. It's easier to do tints and color transitions and they are a dream through the airbrush.
You used watered down Payne’s Grey to darken the shadow on the blue piggy. Would the Payne’s Grey work to do that with other colors or were you using that specific ink because the piggy was blue?
It's a great shadow color for all - ruclips.net/video/cD3bahZd_Nw/видео.html
I used these FW inks a few times they are pricey but a little bit goes a long way. I was wondering if you discovered these. They are a must have for the serious miniature painter.
It's true that a little bit goes a long way for sure. They are very intense with their pigment and color.
I am still learning my craft, but I have been improving. Videos such as yours have been a huge help over the past 8 months. I have not really delved into inks yet, but I would love to give them a try. I noticed on the bottles they say "water resistant." Does that mean that cleaning the brushes requires a special thinner or do I still use water and my masters brush soap?
And thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming.
That just means for the finished application. The brushes itself are still cleaned as normal, a little master's brush soap makes everything right. :)
Vince, have you tried the shimmering or pearlescent FW inks? Can we airbrush with those as well, or does the mica particles in those inks wreak havoc on the needle?
Never really tried it. I am sure it goes through just fine, it would be something you'd want to make sure you have a good cleaning for the airbrush afterward.
I've been using Dr. PH Martin's Bombay white ink, and I've noticed it's very liquidy. Meaning that I have to put more than one layer of it onto of my artwork.
Is FW Acrylic White ink any different, and if so, is it thicker in covering up my inking mistakes?
No ink is going to be highly opaque, the liquid pigment will always keep it somewhat translucent. That being said, I do think FW is better in that regard than PH Martin.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. Also, does the FW Acrylic ink dry into A solid mass over time when not in use, or does it stay the same?
Whats better for zenithal priming? FW white ink or stylrez primer? Have bad experiences with white paints.
Honestly, i use both sometimes, they are both quite good for the process. My answer is either and both will work fine.
Is it advisable to use inks with a Kolinski brush?
I just ask, as it is often said, to not use a Kolinsky with washes.
You certainly can, you just want to make sure that you are using a controlled amount of ink.
So I just ordered my first bottle of white FW ink. If I add it to a paint to lighten it, will it also make it more opaque or more transparent? Because if I’m learning correctly inks make the colour of the acrylic paint they’re added to more transparent, albeit maybe more saturated as well, right?
If you add it to white paint, you will get a more flowing white paint that likely won't really be much different in coverage, that depends highly on brand. There is no one rule for this, because it depends on the pigments in question. If you mix it with a very transparent color, like a purple, it will be much more opaque than the lower layer. Inks in general are often more transparent because of the liquid pigment, but again, it depends on the particular mixture of pigments.
@@VinceVenturella Perfectly clear thank you sir. Look forward to experimenting with some inks. (Also ordered the Vallejo game ink set per your recommendation as well!)
nice review Vince, I would agree the white is excellent for coverage. Although I had the same trouble with it as I did with the Liquitex white ink in that it got small bits in it of pigment that just doesn't mix back well int. Can make airbrushing with it diabolical.
Had any trouble yourself with the white inks like this and any fixes you can recommend?
Haven't run into the issue really, but I generally run it on the vortex mixer first, so that might be where I haven't seen the clumping.
@@VinceVenturella sweet cheers mate, I might have to pick up one of those gadgets
Hi Vince! I hope you have time to answer this: what's the best acrylic ink for minies in your opinion? Liquitex or Daley Rowney? I can't but single bottles for test, and I'll go for bunch, but I thought asking you would have been my best choice :)
IN general, I prefer Daler Rowney if you can get them, they just perform better. THe liquitex is fine, but FW does outperform.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince! That's all I needed to know! Forgive Ninjon being unable to follow your tips ;) ;) ;) You're the best
Have you tried the neon fw inks? I feel like they could be very useful for achieving effects and bright colors like toxic waste, glow weapons, etc.
I have not tried them yet, but I am very interested in them for sure.
Great review thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting as always.
Hello Vince. I'm now the proud owner of White, Paynes Grey, Black and Umber. Which Hobby Cheating should I watch besides this one? Or do you have one in the making on using FW Inks? Best Regards and Seasons Greetings, Peter. Glædelig jul og Godt Nytår.
This is pretty much the video on it, though you'll see me use it all the time in my various tutorials (If you want a good single example, check out the detailed freehand video or maybe drawing sharp thin lines).
I've been trying to make a Citadel Shades (washes) To Daler Rowney FW compatibility chart and I've been having a hard time of it going on the web and comparing colors etc
Like I don't know which yelloe Daler Rowney FW Washes correspond to the Citadel Casandora Yelllow wash, is it Process Yellow, Lemon Yellow or Process Yellow. I think for say Drakenhof Nightshade it's Rowney Blue and for Agrax Earthshade it's Antelope Brown but I'm not certain. But I had to take a wild guess for Seraphim Sepia as being Raw Sienna and Reiken Fleshade as Red Earth. I could be totally wrong, I'm not ordering until I am more certain.
Drakenhof nightshade is Prussia blue. Not all places list their entire range of colors
Thanks for a great vid, as usual. 2 comments: checking D-R inks at Jackson's, I have come across their "system 3" range. They too seem like acrylic inks. Any idea how they compare to the FW range? Also, I for one hear "dollaroni" when you say "Daler Rowney", which in my head sounds like a make-believe rich Italian family (possibly a crazy translation of "Scrooge McDuck"... "Dollaroni McAnatra")
That mispronunciation is not surprising, I am terrible at pronouncing things. I don't have any experience with the System 3 range, it seems like it might not have the same water resistance, which could be a challenge.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, sir. By the way, I keep marveling at how quickly you will reply to a random comment from a Spaniard on a 4 year old video. You are a star!
While talking about inks... have you ever tried the liquitex iridescent inks?
That is one I haven't tried yet. They have been on my list for a while, but I have yet to pull the trigger. Yet... ;)
Vince Venturella well, I just ordered their gold off of Amazon, I'll try to give you a heads up :)
Nice video. I've actually watched it several times, just to make sure I got it all :) I have a bunch of Liquitex inks that I want to use through my airbrush, especially a white for smoother zenithal highlights. Can you give some general advice on how much to thin down the inks when using them for different stuff through the airbrush? Did a 50/50 mix of white ink and thinner today for a zenithal, and I'm not really sure if I thinned it too much or too little. I like the inks a lot, but all in all, I have a hard time figuring out how much I should thin them down. Normal acrylic paint will start to act weird, but I can't figure out if it's the same with inks like FW and Liquitex.
If I'm trying to have some level of coverage, then 1 drop of thinner, to two drops of ink. Then that varies based on if I am trying to glaze or filter i can go up to 6 drops of thinner to 1 drop of ink.
@@VinceVenturella thx Vince, that's nice to know. Seems like my approach wasn't far off. How much do you usually thin a white ink when doing zenithal?
This might be a really stupid question but, could one use black ink intended for a fountain pen? I have a few FW inks, but I don't have a black ink, however my girlfriend does calligraphy and has black ink for that. But I don't really have any models to test it on
In general, they don't have the same consistency and light fastness, water proof-ness (is that a word?) as the artists inks. So the artists inks are made for all of these purposes but calligraphy inks alone may not perform the same and may easily reactivate with later applications of water/paint.
Other than the colours that you show in the video, are there any others that you would recommend? I also have the Vallejo Game Ink set if it matters.
Whatever colors look interesting to you I would say. I like Yellow Ochre and Red Earth for example, but those might not be as valuable to others. The purple and turquoise are also particular favorites.
If you had to choose to use regular paints and glaze medium or inks would you say they are better and would you exclusively use them? Can inks be useful in subtle glazes,highlights?
Also is there a big difference in fw and liquidtex?
Would you say they are more suited towards shades/washes than highlights?
1) I use both, I tend to use them at different times. Inks are more naturally transparent, so when I am simply trying to tint, I prefer inks, when I am trying to blend, I prefer thinned paints.
2) Not really, both are good.
3) Yes, because it's always easier to thin darker transparent colors and shade colors down, lighter more opaque colors don't thin and glaze well.
Hope that all helps. :)
Vince Venturella so if I had a light blue cape for example or an entire model like a space marine I could use inks in thin coats to darken the base coat and highlights with each other?
Would the ink go on smoothly just with water or would glaze medium be better? I’ve used glaze medium before just wondering if ink needs it.
I made some washes but the semi gloss put me off, besides using matte varnish is there any way to eliminate this? Matte medium doesn’t seem to fix this.
@@Jasonmci92 Yep, you could use inks like that and they will go on smooth if you apply them in a controlled fashion, they are so naturally thin but intense, it's usually not an issue.
I know that’s a boarboys type model but is that from a set or a single model? Can’t seem to find it anywhere
That would be a Gore Grunta from Games Workshop in the Ironjawz range. :)
Hey Vince, I heard on the Paint Bravely podcast that the white FW ink was poor compared to the Liquitex white but they didn't elaborate. Do you have any preference? Going to pull the trigger on a pot in the next day or so.
All the best!
/J
I've used both and honestly, I've never really seen a difference. Vallejo also makes some that I like.
@@VinceVenturella Good to know. Cheers for taking the time to reply!
Vince did you tried vallejo arist inks? They seems to be somewhat similiar even when it comes to packaging. I woinder if they are any good?
Yes I have and I like them as well. I actually prefer their game inks overall, but they are still good inks for sure.
looks like I gotta buy some inks
They really are quite useful. :)
@@VinceVenturella along with the white, any color recommendations for a dude that paints mostly blood angels and druhkari
@@darkhighwayman1757 White, Payne's Grey, Burnt Umber and Purple Lake are my go-tos.
@@VinceVenturella thanks brother...trying to up my game which feels like it's kinda stuck
@@VinceVenturella oh man...I got a couple bottles and its crazy stuff
Is there a real differrence between these and other brands of Artist's Acrylic Inks? I checked out and my local store only carries Amsterdam Artist's Acrylic Inks
My strong feeling is probably not. I think they are all pretty similar but I will openly admit that I haven't tried them all.
Have you tried the FW Pearlescent inks?
I haven't tried them yet, but it's something I really need to get around to. :)
Hey Vince, thanks for this review! I am planning to buy some of these inks... how do you thin them to get a proper glaze out of FW inks? :)
Honestly, I just use water most of the time, a little flow aid can get it going as well, but they are quite easy to thin and work with for the most part.
Hi Vince, I've just acquired and used a few of these inks. They look really good and I like the effect when watered down. I have a question - or rather a request for help. I've used the Sepia one for the first time this week and I found that it dried to a very smooth finish - to the point it was hard to paint over. I'd actually mat-varnished over it, but it only partially seemed to help. (Could be my thinning the varnish too much, or could be the varnish also was "smoothed away" during application.)
Have you experienced the same? (It seems you mention their curing to somewhere between mat and satin. For me they were somewhere between satin and gloss.)
Could it be I'm doing something wrong, or tht I can improve?
How would you handle post-processing if you want to paint some details over after the ink?
Thanks for your help!
So I will say I use the sepia often and thin it frequently and never had that challenge. I certainly believe you, I just haven't experienced it. Thinking it through, the sepia separates rather easily, so you may want to make sure you are really giving it a good shake. The other option would be to thin it with an additive like some flow improver and see if that helps. I paint over the inks most of the time, so I know it can be done, hope that helps some.:)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! There's a definite possibility I hadn't shaken the bottle enough, or forgot (for that first test) to empty the "dropper" (the thing with which you take the ink out?) so I'll watch out for it. It'd definitely not be good for free handing over the white, and I was indeed trusting you've been using it. Thanks for sharing the tips.
Do you use thinner for ink dilution or just ink when you use it in airbrush. What are good pression and needle ?
Yep, I still thin things out. Usually a 1-1 at least with thinner, maybe 1-2 thinner to ink.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you.
Anyone that is near a hobby lobby. They are only 5.99 plus u can use a 40 percent off coupon.
Michaels as well. Same general price/coupon.
Awesome, thanks for sharing - I have no Hobby lobby near me, but I do have a Michaels. I will have to look into that.
Lol, are these capable of wet blending? I ask because I think I accidentally taught myself how to wet blend on the model with white and Payne's. Unthinned they stay super workable for a while.
Absolutely, as long as you have a reasonable tone underneath, you can certainly wet blend with them. I have used the colors you are mentioning for a quick NMM.
@@VinceVenturella oh I had your standard zenithal underneath - haven't painted on anything else since I saw HC1 like 100 days ago. I could be your biggest fanboi at the moment lol.
I was pretty sure they could wb...I just needed to read it. It was bizarre accomplishing it for the first time without actively thinking about doing it. I was just paintin'. Tried earlier the same night with some scale color in a more deliberate fashion and many things went wrong lol.
@@brkfstfd The zenithal would be perfect for something like NMM, now if you were doing a red cape and had some red and purple ink, you may want to have the area be a light red first, but it's not absolutely necessary. :)
@@VinceVenturella it is a red cloak lol...I actually glazed over the white and Payne's with warcolours red 3 this morning... and yeah it only looks ok (for now! :D)...It never occurred to me to use my red and purple fw...:/
Do you show this nmm technique, specifically this one, in any of the videos? I've yet to be bold enough to try nmm even once. Not scared... just been all in on specifically undershading basics for 12 weeks hehe...you made me switch literally everything I was doing up! :P
Well not everything. I had a wet pallet.
Hello! what do you think about gold ink? Can it be used in miniature painting?
I've tried a few of them and they all are very glittery, I haven't found any with small enough pigment to perform, but I hope there is one out there.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you!
What uses do you have for Paynes Grey Ink beyond value shading?
That's really the main thing I use i for, shading of all kinds. It works as a great shade fora wide variety of colors and metals.
About what ratio of water to ink did you use to darken the armor at 12:11?
Roughly 1 to 1. I am never exact in my ratios, but that is pretty close.
Thanks for the video. I really like your cheating serial :)
May I ask you if you had any trouble by painting over ink. I heard 1st layer ink might come over a 2nd layer of paint applied after, changing the color of the paint.
Did that already happen to you?
It can sometimes reactivate, depending on the ink and the humidity. A quick layer of varnish will stop that.
@@VinceVenturella Thank for you answer.
Let's say I'm priming my mini and then apply ink+medium to kind of emulate the effect of the contrast paint.
So your advise would to varnish before applying other layer of paint if I wan to had some more color?
Are you using ink on minis for wash ?
Have you ever test sennelier abstract ink? there is some in my area it's single pigment?
@@krusty1796 Yep, exactly.
@@VinceVenturella ho! Ok thank you. I wasn't thinking we could paint on varnish. I'm getting in the mini paintaing, but from boardgame view and not warhammer style view and I'm trying to find a way to pull the most of the money I will spend in. And acrylique ink might be something that can be worth to get.
These are $6 at Michaels before the coupon!
Seems a good deal for sure, and worth every penny.
I am now running to the ink store. I didn't like inktensity and still use some VERY ancient ink. I rally like the look of this. And the white looks genius!
Awesome, I know you will love them, they have been a game changer for me.
Vince what’s the diameter of the bottle? My racks are 1.5’’
they are JUST too big
Can we use this ink posca pens?
I'm not sure unfortunately, I have not tried it.
hey vince have you ever tried liquitex inks? where I live is the only ink available, it's pretty expensive wonder if it worth the try or should try to get imported FW?
I haven't used them personally, I know many people do use them and they seem to be fairly equivalent with the FW from what I have heard.
Thx for answering always. srry to bother you so much but got to exploit you before this channel gets to big :P
cheers!
Hey Vince...can you glaze using the FW White ink? If so, any tips for that? I like to glaze a lot of final highlights in white, but it gets chalky or otherwise breaks down very easily.
So here are some thoughts.
1) White doesn't glaze well in general, use alternate colors for your highlights such as Ice Yellow or Glacer blue.
2) If you are trying to apply thin white, yes, the ink can do it, but you generally want to thin with a little medium instead of just water.
3) Gloss varnish is a good tool to stop white chalkieness, it reflects white light and well white paint is white, so there you go.
4) Mix some of the ink with a little Heavy Body Acrylic titanium white. You get a much creamier white out of an HBA.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I have watched your working with white video, and it has helped a lot. I'm experimenting now with the FW ink and using Vallejo Glaze Medium and Liquitex Matte Medium. I'm working with a light blue as my base, so I kind of need to go up to white on these models (Seraphon Skinks).
@@VinceVenturella I did some experiments with the ink, but found some problems with the flow characteristics and the pigment breaking down when thinned, even using medium for thinning. The answer turned out to be my trusty tube of Golden Titanium White heavy body. It's not really transparent enough to glaze, but it goes on so smoothly when thinned that it forms nice highlights on my Pale Blue Skinks. Thanks for the help!
flat finish?
Depends on the color. The white is very flat, but some of the darker colors are more satin and can get more glossy if thinned. In any case though, you can flatten them out easy enough with AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish.
Always fun to get hobby/product tips PS. Pls check out My first video When i showcase some of My favorite miniatyres.
This white ink is a total game changer! So much pigment.
I know right! It's my favorite new thing, it makes white smooth and easy.