**VITAMIN C TABLETS INFORMATION** There is a comment from Sue Sullivan regarding the VITAMIN C Tablets I used instead of the VITAMIN C POWDER (Which I couldn't find) Please read. Makes sense. Sue Says....I'm wondering if vitamin c tablets maybe an issue. They contain lots of other stuff like bulking agents, orange food colouring maybe even sugar or sweeteners etc. not just pure vitamin c . Great experiment tho' .Ingredients Acid (Citric Acid), Acidity Regulator (Sodium Bicarbonate), Vitamin C, Maltodextrin, Anti-Caking Agent (Sorbitol), Flavour (Natural Orange), Sweeteners (Sodium Cyclamate, Sodium Saccharin), Colour (Natural Red Beet, Riboflavin 5-Phosphate Sodium Dihydrate), Anti-Foaming Agent (Saccharose Monopalmitate).
I was thinking the same and I wondered that this came out like that with just the C Tabs. Vitamin C is a "easy name" of the Ascorbic Acid (powder). An another great video Roger, keep up the good work! Greetings from Germany.
Shoot Film Like a Boss, I’m thinking to try it with lemon juice 🤔. It is for free to me because I have many lemon trees ( I’m in Murcia, south of Spain) .
@@Arturo.H.M lemon juice is acidic enough to require large changes to the developer formula. If you want to use a natural source of ascorbate, try hot peppers. Most are high in vitamin C, higher that citrus.
@@LordPrecision No, vitamin-c is ascorbic acid, totally different from citric acid (which definitely is easier to find). Citric acid is actually a good stop bath, so you really don't want ANY of it in your developer solution
@@tomsawyer8802 yeah you actually just want to use absorbic acid I can see all the additives being a problem by the way absorbic acid not technically vitamin C
I first used Caffenol in 2003 -- originally without the vitamin C. I developed my own recipes specific to using microfilm in submini cameras, to control the contrast, as well as using regular Tri-X in 35 mm with conventional Caffenol. Especially without the vitamin C, Caffenol does produce considerable staining, but, like the developer family known as "Pyro", it also produces a stain *image* that overlays the silver grain image. One important result of this stain image is that the negative will print differently compared to scanning. The stain image blocks more blue light, which causes multigrade printing papers to print with slightly reduced contrast, and more so in denser negative areas. This gives a compensating effect that isn't seen in scans.
I enjoyed your video. Caffenol is a precise science. With the correct ingredients, it can produce excellent results on par with commercial developers. It's the only developer I've used in over twelve years.
You sir, are a savage...😆...I love that you tried that no measurement experiment, that's the kind of thing Iigjt have done when I was a teenager and first learning thw darkroom, but as I've gotten older, I don't take those kind of risks. Thanks for reminding us to do that sometimes
Part of what the carbonate of soda does is it stops the film base from getting as stained. I don't know how it does but multiple sources in my own research have said this and also from my own tests have seemed to prove this. Great video too :)
Brilliant - thank you. Handy to know. Also, I use hearing aid batteries in place of mercury cells in my camera light meters - holding them in place using blu-tac. Other RUclipss have recommended this and it seems fine
Depends on the type of lightmeter. Zenit, for example use a Whetstone Bridge (google it) and so the actual battery voltage does not matter(within limits), so it does not need a 1.3V mercury cell, it works just fine on an alkaline 1.5V cell.
I have not done film but I have used caffenol to develop fiber paper. It works well and you get brown staining in the paper that gives the print a toned look. Worth trying IMHO. It doesn't last long In the tray though, definitely exhausts quicker than normal paper developer.
I’ve started pulling the film out with the tab sticking out like that. I snip the end and feed the end on to the Patterson reel. Then I turn off the light and spool it on. Skips the fumbling in the dark. Saw this video suggested yesterday and it’s already here! Awesome
@@gameloozer731 yeah I know I've really never had a problem just make sure if you're using plastic film reals that they are bone dry.. if you're using metal make sure that they never fall because once their bent , their done. A little trick I do is rub my fingernail across the top and make sure all the film is separated and loaded correctly.
Years ago I used cafenol on b and w film and on colorfilm. My recipe told me to use caustic soda, coffee and vitamin c. No soda and no salt. Worked very very well. Still usable negatives. No deteriorating at all.
Caffenol is not as simple as people think. Almost any combination of ingredients will "work," that's true as you demonstrated. But there are "secrets" that aren't spread around as to the making of it. This was a fun video to watch, thanks. P.S. I've used some of the most popular developers and for my purposes Caffenol is superior.
Well done! Recently, I have been searching the internet to find a recipe for developing negatives in caffenol. And I just found. Your second approach to this topic inspired me a lot and deprived me of all resistance to this method. But I think the one thing you could change: cheap powdered instant coffe should be far better. :-)
Another great video. The production is fantastic and it is wonderful to see these things explained and played with. Thanks for all the hard work. It is greatly appreciated.
@@polishaztec I am very interested in this! Where can I learn more! Also, can you help me with a question - I have all the ingredients, except instead of Ascorbic acid, I have only sodium ascorbate - is there an easy way to modify the common recipes to use sodium ascorbate instead? Increase the amount of sodium ascorbate, or reduce the amount of soda perhaps? I am trying to learn but out of my depth!
@@NeillRobinson to be honest I haven't tried what you are proposing, but my research has clearly shown that the ascorbic acid is key to successful development Not sure if it's anti oxidant properties or acidic pH You can give it a try on a piecie of photo paper (original caffenol did a good job on that as well) and let us know
Crackin video. That looked fun and you really simplified it. Very interesting and nice results. Thank you for taking the time to teach us, appreciate it!
I developed some prints in caffenol print developer recently. Super long development time like 19/20 minutes. But interesting results, it almost sepia tones the paper.
Great fun experimenting with alternative developing processes. Can recommend DIY rodinal. Some paracetamol tablets, sodium meta-bisulphite and sodium hydroxide (and water of course). Works great and used exactly the same as the real thing.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss No. The sodium-metabisulphite I got from my local home brew shop, the sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) from a hardware store, and the paracetamol tablets from any chemist or supermarket. The chemicals have to be handled with care (particularly the caustic soda. If you want the full details I can send them to you.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Can only give you Australian $, but 100 tablets about $2.50 (need 20 per batch), chemicals have lasted me a long time, so this is only a guessimate, but not more than 50 cents per batch (of 100 mls of developer, which will last at least 3 months and up to 6 months), so about $1 per batch total (which I think is about 50 pence)
Thanks for the video, the second development without measurements is really fun and surprising. I’m wondering to myself how the coffee stains affect negatives along the time. I think it’s something to try for fun but I don’t see it as a main process for my films.
looking forward to watching this. I've been doing some playing about with cafenol recently to develop some Fuji Super-HR microfilm that I've shot in a 35mm camera (it's very low iso, probably around ISO 20, fine grain high contrast film)
Nicely done. I also bought everything (including Potassium Bromide, because it is recommended over salt), but didn't had time to shoot a film and develop it. A Tri-X ist waiting in my T90 for this purpose
I think there are recipes out there for rodinal as well. I think its called pararodinal and uses acetaminophen tablets as an ingredient. I think the results are genrally better with this than the caffenol
Bucket chemistry at it best One point, it is bad (laboratory) practice to return surplus chemicals to their storage container. That surplus salt could be contaminated by the (Caustic) soda crystals and that would make your chips taste funny, which is no joke.
You need pure vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid. I made Caffenol-M with the cheapest coffee I could find. The really cheap & nasty brands are supposed to be most potent. The used developer will smell like the liquor from washing a hundred ashtrays. But if it is cheap.... Caffenol -L & H, for low & high speed films call for extra additions.
I have watched your video a few times now...and really enjoyed it ...thank you for presenting the results ...and coffee staining issue ...I wonder if when you did second batch that less coffee was used ..at worst case scenario the contrast might decrease ..could not place your hometown ..with the accent ..lol
concerning stopping, one must not use any acid... stopping by washing with water is the recommended method. using an acid will trap bubbles of CO2 in the gelatin, creating spots in the negative, spots which cannot be removed at all.
it is about stopping with water, e.g. with an Ilford wash, before fixing... Of course, fixing the usual way. Sorry for the confusion, made a mistake and edited my comment....
Would like to see some prints of the negs that you just threw the stuff in. They looked clearer/sharper/more contrasty than the measured doses. From what I've seen (University of You Tube) everyone says the negs come out coffee stained, Maybe not such a bad thing if you don't want contrast. Stand developing compared to agitation also seems to make bugger all difference with caffenol. I'm always interested in the 'magic' of the chemistry and how much darkroom practice is received wisdom (fake news) or companies just trying to sell a more expensive alternative.
If any of you good people want to try a cheap film developer just use the no name standard paper developer and treat it as Rodinal for development times and dilution. As for Caffenol it is too variable and inconsistent with it's results and expensive, I think it came about because film users thought that film developers would no longer be available in certain parts of the world because of digital dominance,,,,,,,, Great video though very enjoyable.
@@klofisch Not sure. Single use vs replenishing developer economy depends on the volume used, and concentration preferred. Then there's shelf life to consider and how many films are developed at a time. For domestic use of a few films a week tops, I like disposable dev because I can keep tabs on it.
Have you tried with peppermint tea tree oil? Apparently it's the phenol in the coffee that is the important part and you can get that from other sources without the stink that caffenol has.
If I'm not mistaken it says it right on the tube of the vitamin C how much there is per tablet, so no point in weighing them, is there? :-) But a great fun to watch, as always. Cheers!
that is interesting facts how the soda crystals drops the temperature by 5 degrees it came out pretty good tho top researching rodger how much did all the products cost you
@@beaupfeifferrecordingsgood question Beau. I don't know. I didn't think about it. I'd have to work it out. I noticed the coffee is now only half a jar. I was wondering if it was also reusable!
I made a caffeinol solution at home and took a negative with a box camera with a shutter, but the problem I'm having after taking pictures is when I try to show the negative in the caffeinol, the photo darkens very quickly and becomes completely black within seconds, although I made the solution very accurately and kind Paper is the new ilford And when I put the negative and the positive on top of each other and light the lamp the pictures do not appear either, where is the problem and the solution. Please reply, thanks.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I do not mean 35 mm film as in the video.. I mean I have black and white ilford negative paper when I take it with a dark box camera and I try to develop the image in the caffeinol the image starts to appear but quickly turns black and disappears completely This is what I mean how is the correct way does this mean that The caffeinol is concentrated and needs to be diluted, or is there too much light that spoils the picture, or is the ilford paper damaged?
@@abohosamabohosam4178 I'd say your paper is either been exposed to light when loading into your camera or your camera is grossly leaking light or you're over exposing your shots. Either way sounds like your paper is getting too much light
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hello.. Do I understand that caffeinol or paper damage is not the cause of the problem, nor does it cause the image to be dark and black?! (If the whole cause of the problem is a lot of light leaking through the camera only) .. This is the problem then.. I will try the experiment again while avoiding the previous mistakes.. In general, I have one last question, what is the expected long-term shelf life of caffeinol, is it kept in the refrigerator and used for a long time? Long, many times for many pictures, or is it only used once and replaced with a new one? Is it heated a little before work, and what is the appropriate temperature when dissolving?! Sorry for the many questions, and thank you very much for your reply
I wonder how stable the coffee staining left in the gelatin is over the long term? The negatives look great but it would be a shame if they ended up oxidized or rancid after a few years. Wouldn't be surprised if the coffee staining tends to de-emphasize the grain much like more conventional staining developers like Pyro.
geezer g'day from Australia!I reckon you would do yourself a favour by buying some digital scales, As a former chef those cheap house scale are inaccurate at best mate.Cheers for the vid regards.
So was this cheaper than standard developers? Also, where was Holly Willoughby in your kitchen? (-points)... Also -points for no "bish bash bosh" and -points for taunting merch *again* (even if ironed like a boss). Seriously though, great surprise video that was both informative and nice to watch.
I remember when I made caffenol the first time, I didn't expect the smell, you think that all these are benign or quite pleasant on their own. It was like burning opossum assholes. I didn't make it a second time.
Prints will last for as long as any other film. The negatives are still as they are. Time will tell, I reckon a long time. As long as a film is fixed properly.
Nice video, but absolutely useless for people who want to play with caffenol. Too many things to say about, just don't follow this procedure, and dont't use that ingredients. I love your OTHER video... 😅
**VITAMIN C TABLETS INFORMATION** There is a comment from Sue Sullivan regarding the VITAMIN C Tablets I used instead of the VITAMIN C POWDER (Which I couldn't find) Please read. Makes sense.
Sue Says....I'm wondering if vitamin c tablets maybe an issue. They contain lots of other stuff like bulking agents, orange food colouring maybe even sugar or sweeteners etc. not just pure vitamin c . Great experiment tho'
.Ingredients
Acid (Citric Acid), Acidity Regulator (Sodium Bicarbonate), Vitamin C, Maltodextrin, Anti-Caking Agent (Sorbitol), Flavour (Natural Orange), Sweeteners (Sodium Cyclamate, Sodium Saccharin), Colour (Natural Red Beet, Riboflavin 5-Phosphate Sodium Dihydrate), Anti-Foaming Agent (Saccharose Monopalmitate).
I was thinking the same and I wondered that this came out like that with just the C Tabs. Vitamin C is a "easy name" of the Ascorbic Acid (powder). An another great video Roger, keep up the good work! Greetings from Germany.
Shoot Film Like a Boss, I’m thinking to try it with lemon juice 🤔. It is for free to me because I have many lemon trees ( I’m in Murcia, south of Spain) .
@@Arturo.H.M lemon juice is acidic enough to require large changes to the developer formula. If you want to use a natural source of ascorbate, try hot peppers. Most are high in vitamin C, higher that citrus.
@@LordPrecision No, vitamin-c is ascorbic acid, totally different from citric acid (which definitely is easier to find).
Citric acid is actually a good stop bath, so you really don't want ANY of it in your developer solution
@@tomsawyer8802 yeah you actually just want to use absorbic acid I can see all the additives being a problem by the way absorbic acid not technically vitamin C
I first used Caffenol in 2003 -- originally without the vitamin C. I developed my own recipes specific to using microfilm in submini cameras, to control the contrast, as well as using regular Tri-X in 35 mm with conventional Caffenol. Especially without the vitamin C, Caffenol does produce considerable staining, but, like the developer family known as "Pyro", it also produces a stain *image* that overlays the silver grain image. One important result of this stain image is that the negative will print differently compared to scanning. The stain image blocks more blue light, which causes multigrade printing papers to print with slightly reduced contrast, and more so in denser negative areas. This gives a compensating effect that isn't seen in scans.
I must say thanks to you guys that recently commented on the communication tab. Thanks for your ideas. Appreciate it.
I enjoyed your video. Caffenol is a precise science. With the correct ingredients, it can produce excellent results on par with commercial developers. It's the only developer I've used in over twelve years.
You sir, are a savage...😆...I love that you tried that no measurement experiment, that's the kind of thing Iigjt have done when I was a teenager and first learning thw darkroom, but as I've gotten older, I don't take those kind of risks. Thanks for reminding us to do that sometimes
I love how you can basicly develop film with food.
This was very interesting. Thank you for taking time to research this and put a video together showing your results. And thanks for sharing
Part of what the carbonate of soda does is it stops the film base from getting as stained. I don't know how it does but multiple sources in my own research have said this and also from my own tests have seemed to prove this. Great video too :)
Brilliant - thank you. Handy to know. Also, I use hearing aid batteries in place of mercury cells in my camera light meters - holding them in place using blu-tac. Other RUclipss have recommended this and it seems fine
Depends on the type of lightmeter. Zenit, for example use a Whetstone Bridge (google it) and so the actual battery voltage does not matter(within limits), so it does not need a 1.3V mercury cell, it works just fine on an alkaline 1.5V cell.
I have not done film but I have used caffenol to develop fiber paper. It works well and you get brown staining in the paper that gives the print a toned look. Worth trying IMHO.
It doesn't last long In the tray though, definitely exhausts quicker than normal paper developer.
I may have to try that Anthony! For the "why not" and the toning. Thanks!
Great video mate, have been thinking about caffenol myself. Chuck it all in, wing it, made me laugh but I think those negs looked a bit better!
I’ve started pulling the film out with the tab sticking out like that. I snip the end and feed the end on to the Patterson reel. Then I turn off the light and spool it on. Skips the fumbling in the dark. Saw this video suggested yesterday and it’s already here! Awesome
Well that is how you're supposed to do it never heard of anybody trying to load a film reel with the tab still on
unbroken1010 usually you open the canisters in the dark, I’m saying you get the reel started before you unspool the cartridge
@@gameloozer731 yeah I know I've really never had a problem just make sure if you're using plastic film reals that they are bone dry.. if you're using metal make sure that they never fall because once their bent , their done. A little trick I do is rub my fingernail across the top and make sure all the film is separated and loaded correctly.
Very nice! I like that you take chances and experiment to see the various effects.
Have nothing to lose and everything to gain. (Apart from a bit of film) lol
I use citric acid instead of vitamin C/Ascorbic acid....never had an issue....is super easy to find, and cheaper...
Years ago I used cafenol on b and w film and on colorfilm. My recipe told me to use caustic soda, coffee and vitamin c. No soda and no salt. Worked very very well. Still usable negatives. No deteriorating at all.
do you have a link to this recipe?
My Pentax MG does exactly the same thing sometimes when I load a new film, funny that!
Another excellent video Roger keep em coming I literally do look forward to your videos.
Caffenol is not as simple as people think. Almost any combination of ingredients will "work," that's true as you demonstrated. But there are "secrets" that aren't spread around as to the making of it. This was a fun video to watch, thanks. P.S. I've used some of the most popular developers and for my purposes Caffenol is superior.
Very cool video, think I'll give this a go. Seems easy enough and pretty inexpensive for the ingredients plus they don't expire or go out of date :)
Well done! Recently, I have been searching the internet to find a recipe for developing negatives in caffenol. And I just found. Your second approach to this topic inspired me a lot and deprived me of all resistance to this method. But I think the one thing you could change: cheap powdered instant coffe should be far better. :-)
Nice Roger! Camera's and Coffee go so well together especially in the morning. Interesting results, thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend!
You too mate , cheers
Another great video. The production is fantastic and it is wonderful to see these things explained and played with. Thanks for all the hard work. It is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Patrick and for your continued support.
I did my engineers degree on caffenol and developers based on other natural extracts
other natural extracts? can you share a bit?
I was experimenting on extracts of kale, oats, black currant and coffee, because of their antioxidant properties
@@polishaztec I am very interested in this! Where can I learn more! Also, can you help me with a question - I have all the ingredients, except instead of Ascorbic acid, I have only sodium ascorbate - is there an easy way to modify the common recipes to use sodium ascorbate instead? Increase the amount of sodium ascorbate, or reduce the amount of soda perhaps? I am trying to learn but out of my depth!
@@NeillRobinson to be honest I haven't tried what you are proposing, but my research has clearly shown that the ascorbic acid is key to successful development
Not sure if it's anti oxidant properties or acidic pH
You can give it a try on a piecie of photo paper (original caffenol did a good job on that as well) and let us know
Fascinating! Can't wait to try this!
Crackin video. That looked fun and you really simplified it. Very interesting and nice results. Thank you for taking the time to teach us, appreciate it!
I'd been asked this so many times but you was the straw. Cheers. It was interesting and fun.
I developed some prints in caffenol print developer recently. Super long development time like 19/20 minutes. But interesting results, it almost sepia tones the paper.
I'm going to try that next ;)
Great fun experimenting with alternative developing processes. Can recommend DIY rodinal. Some paracetamol tablets, sodium meta-bisulphite and sodium hydroxide (and water of course). Works great and used exactly the same as the real thing.
Is that supermarket stuff?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss No. The sodium-metabisulphite I got from my local home brew shop, the sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) from a hardware store, and the paracetamol tablets from any chemist or supermarket. The chemicals have to be handled with care (particularly the caustic soda. If you want the full details I can send them to you.
@@timjones8312 what's the cost compared to Rodinal? 500ml is about £10
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Can only give you Australian $, but 100 tablets about $2.50 (need 20 per batch), chemicals have lasted me a long time, so this is only a guessimate, but not more than 50 cents per batch (of 100 mls of developer, which will last at least 3 months and up to 6 months), so about $1 per batch total (which I think is about 50 pence)
Thanks for the video, the second development without measurements is really fun and surprising.
I’m wondering to myself how the coffee stains affect negatives along the time.
I think it’s something to try for fun but I don’t see it as a main process for my films.
Like you say. Just for fun. Ive not used it since
😮 This was great!
Very educational and interesting as always, thanks.
looking forward to watching this. I've been doing some playing about with cafenol recently to develop some Fuji Super-HR microfilm that I've shot in a 35mm camera (it's very low iso, probably around ISO 20, fine grain high contrast film)
Be a different recipe for lower speed dial Lori. This is for higher speeds. Good fun
Shoot Film Like a Boss that’s correct. Pretty much the same ingredients but different amounts
Great bit of fun it’s amazing what you can get away with really👍
You should also try to make prints with caffenol - mine came out fine, a bit stained but it works!
How would that work out what ratio were you using
Thank you, plus have you done a video on stand development yet?
Dont forget the free PDF "cafanol cookbook"
Not yet. Maybe in the future a Stand vid.
Nicely done. I also bought everything (including Potassium Bromide, because it is recommended over salt), but didn't had time to shoot a film and develop it. A Tri-X ist waiting in my T90 for this purpose
Good luck with it Peter. I enjoyed the experience. Might try a few different films next.
Vitamin c powder is ascorbic acid and can be bought online as a pure powder
I think there are recipes out there for rodinal as well. I think its called pararodinal and uses acetaminophen tablets as an ingredient. I think the results are genrally better with this than the caffenol
Thank you.
Thanks for such a great video
Another great video, thanks!!👍
Amazing! I didn’t know you could do that.
Bucket chemistry at it best
One point, it is bad (laboratory) practice to return surplus chemicals to their storage container. That surplus salt could be contaminated by the (Caustic) soda crystals and that would make your chips taste funny, which is no joke.
You need pure vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid. I made Caffenol-M with the cheapest coffee I could find. The really cheap & nasty brands are supposed to be most potent.
The used developer will smell like the liquor from washing a hundred ashtrays. But if it is cheap....
Caffenol -L & H, for low & high speed films call for extra additions.
You "savage" recipe is the way to go mate :D
I have watched your video a few times now...and really enjoyed it ...thank you for presenting the results ...and coffee staining issue ...I wonder if when you did second batch that less coffee was used ..at worst case scenario the contrast might decrease ..could not place your hometown ..with the accent ..lol
South London
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ..originally I from Herts / Essex..
concerning stopping, one must not use any acid... stopping by washing with water is the recommended method. using an acid will trap bubbles of CO2 in the gelatin, creating spots in the negative, spots which cannot be removed at all.
So..... You fix with water?
You mean stopping with water instead of using stop bath?
Shoot Film Like a Boss I think he means fixing with water.... I am a bit confused 😐
it is about stopping with water, e.g. with an Ilford wash, before fixing...
Of course, fixing the usual way. Sorry for the confusion, made a mistake and edited my comment....
sorry... i was referring to stopping with water, not fixing... my mistake! sorry for that!
Would like to see some prints of the negs that you just threw the stuff in. They looked clearer/sharper/more contrasty than the measured doses. From what I've seen (University of You Tube) everyone says the negs come out coffee stained, Maybe not such a bad thing if you don't want contrast. Stand developing compared to agitation also seems to make bugger all difference with caffenol. I'm always interested in the 'magic' of the chemistry and how much darkroom practice is received wisdom (fake news) or companies just trying to sell a more expensive alternative.
Brilliant m8 :-) Awesome experiment and a cracking vid too :-) (Learned loads ;-) )
Cheers Iain.
Great vid. Doing this ASAP!
If any of you good people want to try a cheap film developer just use the no name standard paper developer and treat it as Rodinal for development times and dilution. As for Caffenol it is too variable and inconsistent with it's results and expensive, I think it came about because film users thought that film developers would no longer be available in certain parts of the world because of digital dominance,,,,,,,, Great video though very enjoyable.
Good fun, but I'll stick to Rodinal. Cheaper and I know where I am with it.
What might be cheaper? Rodinal or HC110...:)
@@klofisch Not sure. Single use vs replenishing developer economy depends on the volume used, and concentration preferred. Then there's shelf life to consider and how many films are developed at a time. For domestic use of a few films a week tops, I like disposable dev because I can keep tabs on it.
try cinnestill df96
I really want to try this!
Have you tried with peppermint tea tree oil? Apparently it's the phenol in the coffee that is the important part and you can get that from other sources without the stink that caffenol has.
I havn't but thanks for the tip!
If I'm not mistaken it says it right on the tube of the vitamin C how much there is per tablet, so no point in weighing them, is there? :-) But a great fun to watch, as always. Cheers!
Yeah but I just love them scales 😁
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Who doesn't? :D
Try Barry Thornton's 2 bath next time.
I'd say, getting and using your bog standard Rodinal is probably much easier and in the end also cheaper.
I was wondering, if you print one of the coffee processed photos, does the staining act like a pre-flash, or like a coffee toned print? Thank you.
No. I see nothing unusual about the print.
that is interesting facts how the soda crystals drops the temperature by 5 degrees it came out pretty good tho top researching rodger how much did all the products cost you
In total about £5. That temp dropped down to about 5° Beau!
that's pretty good rodger how many rolls do u think u would get out of all those products
@@beaupfeifferrecordingsgood question Beau. I don't know. I didn't think about it. I'd have to work it out. I noticed the coffee is now only half a jar. I was wondering if it was also reusable!
ok all good rodger yeh u should try and see if its the same as cinestill df96 developer/stop & fix
I made a caffeinol solution at home and took a negative with a box camera with a shutter, but the problem I'm having after taking pictures is when I try to show the negative in the caffeinol, the photo darkens very quickly and becomes completely black within seconds, although I made the solution very accurately and kind Paper is the new ilford And when I put the negative and the positive on top of each other and light the lamp the pictures do not appear either, where is the problem and the solution. Please reply, thanks.
Not quite sure what you mean here Abohosam.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I do not mean 35 mm film as in the video.. I mean I have black and white ilford negative paper when I take it with a dark box camera and I try to develop the image in the caffeinol the image starts to appear but quickly turns black and disappears completely This is what I mean how is the correct way does this mean that The caffeinol is concentrated and needs to be diluted, or is there too much light that spoils the picture, or is the ilford paper damaged?
@@abohosamabohosam4178 I'd say your paper is either been exposed to light when loading into your camera or your camera is grossly leaking light or you're over exposing your shots. Either way sounds like your paper is getting too much light
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hello.. Do I understand that caffeinol or paper damage is not the cause of the problem, nor does it cause the image to be dark and black?! (If the whole cause of the problem is a lot of light leaking through the camera only) .. This is the problem then.. I will try the experiment again while avoiding the previous mistakes.. In general, I have one last question, what is the expected long-term shelf life of caffeinol, is it kept in the refrigerator and used for a long time? Long, many times for many pictures, or is it only used once and replaced with a new one? Is it heated a little before work, and what is the appropriate temperature when dissolving?! Sorry for the many questions, and thank you very much for your reply
Hi! Thank you for nice video. I wanna ask how do you fixing the film? Thank you.
Just regular film fixer. Usually Ilford Rapid or Fotospeed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you.
👍🏻Will cut back my coffee intake from now on 😁
Thats exactly what I thought!
May I ask, how much did the temperture drop when you added the salt crystals? Thank you.
I think it dropped to about 5°. It was a lot
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks.
I wonder how stable the coffee staining left in the gelatin is over the long term? The negatives look great but it would be a shame if they ended up oxidized or rancid after a few years. Wouldn't be surprised if the coffee staining tends to de-emphasize the grain much like more conventional staining developers like Pyro.
Good shout Derek. I also thought of that. I'll let you know in 20 years! Like I said in the video I wouldn't use Caffenol for any planned shoots.
Looks like a 5 michelin star chef boss 😁. Do you know if this works for color negatives too? Great video 👌, cheers.
Hey Pedro - it's Black and White only
@@MsElleBee thank you very much 👌.
Does this work on color film? If it does, does it develop it in color or does it turn it to black and white or sepia?
Interested to try this, what are soda crystals, I do not believe we have this in Australia.
I found some in Aus. Google soda crystals Australia
So its just sodium carbonate.
geezer g'day from Australia!I reckon you would do yourself a favour by buying some digital scales, As a former chef those cheap house scale are inaccurate at best mate.Cheers for the vid regards.
this is going to be a quick video ?
This stuff would be handy when you run out of developer on a sunday night.
Then you run out of coffee!
Does this affect the taste of the coffee?
I did notice it was a bit funky
So was this cheaper than standard developers? Also, where was Holly Willoughby in your kitchen? (-points)... Also -points for no "bish bash bosh" and -points for taunting merch *again* (even if ironed like a boss). Seriously though, great surprise video that was both informative and nice to watch.
Lol. Thanks. Holly Willoughby?
Maybe with the Caffenol you should salt to taste..... :)
Add a bit of Thyme too and a splash of chilli sauce
DIY fixer?
There are recipes online but I haven't gone there.
嘉!
Very interesting takes me back I've sent you a pm message love the content
I remember when I made caffenol the first time, I didn't expect the smell, you think that all these are benign or quite pleasant on their own. It was like burning opossum assholes. I didn't make it a second time.
Ha Ha. It did stink!
I hear that those photos done this way don’t last long? Can you comment on this.
Prints will last for as long as any other film. The negatives are still as they are. Time will tell, I reckon a long time. As long as a film is fixed properly.
Throwing things in, means "Film Kitchen Development Impossible!" Great! But I will stay with my chemicals ;-)
I use cheap powdered coffee works ok... not tried it with salt
hahahaha is sting!!
i hope you got rid of those leaky shitty developing tanks in the meawhile. i have one of them and damn i hate that mess :D
No mate. Still using them and still leaking. 😩
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss masochist :D
Are you saying you don't like a coffee fix! No Starbucks for you!
Nice video, but absolutely useless for people who want to play with caffenol. Too many things to say about, just don't follow this procedure, and dont't use that ingredients.
I love your OTHER video... 😅