Hey, I had the exact same problem, with the same motherboard (P8P67m) and the same CPU (2600K). The reduction of contacts surface between the pins socket and the CPU caused an over oxydation on one pad of the CPU (and also the CPU pin I think). Cleaned with some isopropanol, reseated the CPU and works like a charm 24/7 since almost 3 years now (encoding server). I also had to downgrade the BIOS because the newer version of the BIOS didn't took the OC settings as well as the n-2 version (or n-3 I don't remember). That was a entertaining video. I saw myself 3 years ago troubleshooting my old machine.
What a pain that one was. Good to see you show the button cell reasoning. Any mobo I get that's more than 2 years old, or the that's showing less than 3.2V I replace that straight away. It can cause all sorts of weird issues with the older BIOS's. Looked to me like the heat cycling was casing the pin with the crap under it to walk, thus causing instability.
21:44 You dialled in 100x40 in the BIOS, but the CPU ran at 4.4GHz. It worked at 4.4 when you put a bigger cooler on it because it wasn't at 90c. All the messing with the socket pins was irrelevant. Always verify your overclock, it'll save a lot of time 🙂
very cool! The 2600K was the CPU I had before upgrading to a Ryzen 3700x. I did try overclocking it but the heatsink was not great (still better than the one in this video!!) and I didn't like the extra noise from the fan. So I went back to stock settings. I had that CPU for 10+ years, as Intel basically stopped improving after that.
I ran my 2600K for 10 years and upgraded to a 3700X too. I actually still use the 2600K system from time to time but it no longer runs 24/7 like it used to. It was a beast!
First two pieces of crud were in the VSS and VCC pin locations, this won't cause an issue as there is a lot of them. The brown flake was right over a Data Strobe pin.
I happened to me that one hair of me, fall on the CPU socket while changing CPUs (LGA1155) I didn't knew it and assembled everything, didn't POST and speakers started giving memory beeps. Disconnected everything, removed ram and all. Only when i took the cpu out and found a hair of mine laying around 4 pins, blow that out and the pc worked again. Curious but something you learn for example.
I work at an e-waste recycler in the QC department working on all incoming machines, so no POST hell is my life lol. I really identified with this one. Keep up the great content.
When waiting for cmos reset you only really need to wait for the caps on the mobo & psu to discharge. Flick it off at the switch and wait for the light on the mobo to go off, you also sometimes get an audible pop when your fully discharged from the onboard audio if you have speakers or headphones plugged in. Should be good to go after a few secs.
Once, and just once, I saw a case that the power button was jamming on the back to normal state and it holds pressed, but the fault was, according to customer, "sometimes it boots, sometimes it turn on and shut down shortly after". Solution: new case (was one of those cheap made) so the power button don't stick or disable the power button and use reset as power button.
I have the same CPU and motherboard with a 750 ti Gpu , I had the same problem , changed the bios battery and it continued ro have an issue, so I took the battery out , and held the power button in for about 5 minutes, put it back in , computer booted up and is still going strong 2 years later , I gave it to my mother and father in law. It's actually a pretty decent Gaming machine for its day .
I had this same problem onetime with a clients pc and after i checked evrything like you guys did but as soon as i took the cpu out and cleaned the cpu pins gently with 99.9% isoprophol it worked for me as well. Well done lol. We all love IT lol haha.
As you mentioned, the base clock overclock changes the pci link and the memory speed. Faster memory and faster pci express bus can help the system overall.
I've had A LOT of success cleaning paste off things using a residueless contact cleaner. it simply liquefies the paste which then drains away. fair warning these cleaners often CONDUCT ELECTRICITY so make sure to wait 69 times more than you'd expect for it to evaporate completely and also apply some air to help.
I like how you troubleshoot in depth and I imagine your customers really appreciate it! Thank You for doing what you do! My new gaming pc I built is BSOD Page_Fault_In_Non_Paged_Area Ntsokrnl and ntfs.sys failure randomly over the past 10 months. After Windows login, while watching videos, playing gta 5. Etc, always page fault bsod for the past 6 months or more since I did a windows reinstall. It's really frustrating and I'm at the point where I'm going to take it to Canada Computers and see if they can find and fix the problem! Wish me luck, been trying to fix the problem for almost a year and after recently buying and installing an EVGA 1600w G2 psu with the issue persisting I'm pretty much ready for a qualified technician to assess the issues here.
With a variety of errors like that's I'd be expecting RAM issues, so Memtest86 would be my first move. ntfs.sys also points at storage problems, so any HDDs/SSDs are suspect as well. RAM first though, because bad RAM or XMP issues will cause other things (like ntfs.sys) to potentially fall over as red herrings.
@@Adamant_IT Ahh ok, so I ran a memtest86 off usb bootable from bios with D O C P On at 3600mhz and after 7 hours 25 minutes it said PASS with my 2 32gb sticks of corsair vengeance lpx cl18 3600mhz RAM in the board at the same time, so I don't know if having them on DOCP is skipping over potential errors not running at JEDEC speed 2133 or whatever but, the only other thing I have on in the bios that I changed was Resizeable bar/SAM since I'm AMD gpu and cpu and want to get the most out of my build. (Asus tuf oc 6900xt edition, 5900x ryzen) I used CrystalDiskInfo to check my WD BLACK SN850 2TB W HEATSINK AND WD BLUE NAND SATA 2TB M.2'S and they both said 100% healthy on the program, for reference I use ASUS ROG STRIX X 570 E GAMING MOBO. I am at a complete loss as to what to do next when I thought it could be the power supply. What would you do in this scenario? Thank You very much for your response.
PSU, maybe... Worth plugging in a different one if you can. I'd also try connecting a different SSD and do a clean install of windows, just to eliminate any software problems here. How often does the crash happen?
@@Adamant_IT I tried installing a new power supply, the 1600w is the new one, took out the 850 thermaltake toughpower and it is still blue screening with Page Fault and Ntoskrnl is the faulty driver/system file in bluescreen viewer. I do not have access to another M.2 or SSD, sadly, and can only try reinstalling windows at this point which I am pretty much at if I am going to do anything further before taking it to the computer service shop. The crashes occur frequently when playing gta 5, single player and online and Red Dead 2 singleplayer or online. I was having blue screens like this for the first month of the pc being built, I reinstalled windows in February, and the problems persisted until July, I stopped playing the games that would cause the blue screens a lot, I went 4 months almost with no crashes/blue screens and was only playing WoW for those months, but after I started playing GTA 5 to test the system again, it was blue screening in 1 minute to 5 minutes every time, same blue screen page fault in non paged area, with bottom of blue screen being purply garbled pixels in a band across the monitor not sure if that is a graphics issue when the screen does that but it is noticeable since it takes up the bottom third of the blue screen. Now the blue screens are happening again like before July just doing windows stuff like watching videos, logging into windows after password, that kind of stuff, really random times but frequently enough that it can happen multiple times daily or even once a week depending on what games I play or what I do with the system. Truly confused with what is causing the problem. GTA5 seems to have caused some sort of instability or triggered the blue screens to happen more often again. - Edit a few minutes ago I turned on the pc, was able to delete some sensitive files then RIGHT after I delete those files I blue screened with the black bar at the bottom of it right under NTFS.SYS, it went into automatic repair and it blue screened again before it could do anything, it restarted and blue screened again so I just held the power button and turned it off. Not sure at all what to do other than take it to a professional on Sunday. What do you think Adamant IT?
For 6 months I had intermittent system hangs and BSOD with error KERNAL_WATCHDOG_TIMER_LIMIT_EXCEEDED or something similar. Solution? Update the BIOS, for some reason my mobo had a version from before that socket was even officially launched.
These Asus boards are sold on aliexpress they're used and theres alot of stock, they were likely used in a server farm long term and arent clean so I always use a aerosol IPA on the cpu socket and memory slots.
Can you point me in the direction of that list of Overclock Values? Ive an old i5 2500K stuck at 3.7Ghz ( 16Gb of Ram ) It used to do a good 4.2 but i havent been able to get it stable for a long time. But its stable at 3.7, BUT i wouldnt mind it back as it was.
Hi, I've got a 960GM-VGS3 ASROCK mb with a SEMPRON SDX145HBK13GM CPU. It starts fans but doesn't post, chipset and other regions are moderately hot but cpu is nearly cold. Any idea?
I never could figure out what that TPU switch was for, my 2nd Gen motherboard is from the product line but the highest end I could find on eBay. Got that i7-2700K to go up to 4.9 GHz which to me is mindblowing.
Power cycling when the power is cut is normal behaviour on some moterboards (usually the older ones, my z77 does the same and also a z170, both asus motherboards)
21:40 VID is not Vcore, VID is what the cpu will ask for in automatic, vcore is only close to VID when it is set to auto, otherwise it's the manual voltage or offset from VID
31:30 am a bit confused why you keep putting a GPU back in during no post hell? 2600K has an iGPU. Is your no-post based on no video output? Or the mobo 7-segment code?
Doesn't really matter if you use a graphics card or iGPU, a lot of the time it's force of habit, because most AMD systems don't have an iGPU. No Video is the biggest indicator of a No POST, but there are a lot of other minor signs as well, such as drive activity, fans ramping up or slowing down, etc. 7-segment codes, beeps, etc are all more information, but if the system has POSTed with no video output, you can tell from how everything else is behaving. I've been wrong in the past though, so definitely something to be mindful of.
@@Adamant_IT yep that makes a lot of sense, I've not dealt with any AMD desktops for so long that didn't occur to me. Just went red team but hopefully won't have any no post for time.
ran a 2600K till this year, but was full water so can't tell you the temperatures! Or overclock as I did water for the consistency of sound profile in my room
For reference, I ordered an i7 2600k with motherboard from the UK for a decent price for a server project. It came with a board, memory, cooler and the whole thing, so I fired it up to to test it and it was a frozen POST, frozen on motherboard logo. Seller had tested it okay, and I could track it to failing on some initialization related to CPU once it was done talking to RAM. Long story short, the flaw was actually debris in the socket, a little compressed air and I got it out of there and it currently runs as a champ in the FreeBSD server.
might wanna chk that thermal paste saw it hit 90 before it wen boom dont know how hot it can get tho and when u guys at end it was hitn 90 as well before you shut it of.
I have to say, the line about moving to Nepal to become a goat about had me die of laughter. Well done! Ahhh... British humor is always exquisite, though. I miss my traveling days.
28:43 "Is the RAM in the correct slots?" Looking at the manual "e5940_P8P67.pdf" page 2-5, the blue slots should be populated first as in your final build at 48:25 (with A2, blue nearest the CPU, for a single stick as used at 33:55). Interestingly, the TPU switch is off by default; there's also an EPU switch for eco mode near the DRAM LED.
I swear before you revealed the bios screen i was saying i bet thats an asus board,as i had one which was not overclocked had a perfect cmos battery and was running at stock settings and stock bios. no SSD and decent ram it was never a gaming pc it had the corsair psu and was Amd based it would come on briefly go off and come on and then be fine all day. another day it would just come on fine so yes these are fun.
Yeah, you want to stick with the CX650/M (2015-2017) bronze rated PSU's and up with the Corsair CX series. You'll notice the rails dropping voltages most of the time if it's the PSU. Going by software. Also, HWinfo64 has great sensor support with these older boards.
Or " Non Productive " lol Cheers Graham.. Would have been nice if You'd included some of the chat Comments RE: Helping Diagnosing the PC .... What's on this Weeks Menu Sir ??
I had an asus board that would take 2 posts to boot, until one day it just never posted again. I burnt the board with a dodgy power supply trying to test it, and it was kinda meh anyways so I replaced it.
I had an interesting issue earlier in the year, had a Asus Sabertooth 990fx rev 2 motherboard that suddenly stopped booting, did loads of tests, bought a new cpu, still nothing, changed the ram to the one in my spare pc, and it booted fine. Shut it down and put everything back to how it was, booted up and started with the same error again. turns out the motherboard was frying my ram sitcks, 2 lots of 16gb ddr3 stopped working in that board and my spare pc (an HP 6300) ended up replacing my sons whole pc. Never seen a board fry ram like that before.
I am at the part where you are examining the CPU temps in CPUID HW Monitor and I wonder if you had considered the thermal paste is way past it "use by date" and needs replaced after approximately 10 years. I am making an ASS out of U and ME in that the paste hasn't been replaced in all that time. It's just a thought that new paste may drop that high temps a bit. On the Gen 2 CPU in the cases I obtained just recently, new thermal paste dropped the temps by around 12°C. If you get short of content to publish Graham then consider throwing up some B Roll footage that you may have. I feel you may find the "stuff" you find mundane or run of the mill will be of interest to many of your viewers. *Thank You* for the videos as they are greatly appreciated and this one was real good for me with the overclocking info because I never got into overclocking so I know diddly squat about it. 👍👍
I've been building pcs for myself for years now, but the last situation I had was absolutely the worst I had come across for myself personally, I had a perfectly good working pc it had an old I7 and gtx 1070 it was a great little pc never had issues until one day I decided to clean it as I had done quite regularly, I vape and my computer room is pretty small even though I do have the window open the pc sucks it all in and hence why I kept It clean as best I can, this time took the side off cleaned all the vape oil off the fans etc and put the pc back under my desk and reached behind to put the display port cable back in, I struggled at first then finally found out I had tried to put it in the hdmi port, so start it up and its struggling, it kept looking like its about to start but just does not happen, so check everything over and over change the power supply it seems better but will not start, I then try a different much older graphics card and it all works, I'm gutted I had some how broken my old reliable 1070 but how, I strip it down clean it re-paste then finally give up, so go on ebay and end up bidding around £200 on another similar 1070, in the mean time I'm still trying to fault find the 1070 then suddenly it dawns on me the moment I put the display port in the hdmi port could that have done something, low and behold the hdmi port is broken the little plastic piece in the middle is chewed on one corner so the pins are all touching which shorted and damaged the power supply, I use tweezers to gently remove the offending pins so at least they don't touch each other, put it back in the pc, plug the display cable in and it works perfectly and still works to this day. Now the bidding ends on the other graphics card and I win so have to pay out £200 for a card i did not need in the end!
They're notoriously unreliable. No idea why. There's like, only one or two chipsets for cheap USB3 cards and they're both terrible. Super expensive cards are fine, but these cheap cards just... die. As always, some folks will use them and never ever have a problem, but yea, I avoid them unless they're really needed. If I were building this computer, I'd have just gotten a converter and plugged the USB3 front port into a USB2 header and told the customer to use the rear ports if they need speed.
@@Adamant_IT from what I've been told, the ones that are powered by the PCIe slot are unreliable, however you can get cheap ones that are powered by Molex/SATA. I've been using a Molex powered card I got from aliexpress for years and still works to this day! I also have some USB 2.0 PCI ones from the 2000s that came in some old PCs I got at some point, still working.
They're OK. They're a bit fussy for positioning, and kinda sound like a headset, rather than being in the room - condenser mic gives a better atmosphere IMHO. But the Wireless Go is an incredibly convenient solution with decent quality 👍
I found Blender to be much more picky about overclocking on my aging Ryzen 2700 rig. Cinebench is easy to install but not that reliable. Prime95 just produces a ton of heat, good for cooler testing but again, not testing stability much.
very weird as prime is still one of the best stability tests. prime uses avx by default so maybe blender hammers yer cpu in weird ways? you might have stumbled onto a weird case for blender so.. care to share blender version and a project which crashes the machine where prime doesn't?
@@emperorSbraz I know, it's a performance test. Though it now has a 10-minute mode to fix the length of the test. Cinebench uses 100% of the CPU time, but not all its capabilities.
I'm not sure which generation Intel started doing this but most motherboard manufacturers went from a external clock generator to a chipset integrated one, a few select boards still use an external clock gen which still allows for base clock overclocking, but as your friend stated bclk overclocking doesn't just overclock the CPU it overclocks every subsystem in the computer that bases it's clocks off that bclk and is generally unstable past 2 or 3 mhz over spec with boards without external clock gen. Edit: TJMax for the 1st 2nd and 3rd gen Core series was only around 75c and it stomped all over that and ran way past it, 75c+ is not safe on the first few generations of Core chips, rule of thumb never overclock with a stock cooler especially an Intel stock cooler they are absolute garbage.
I put together a free system for my girlfriend with the same mobo and cpu combo as this - it does the same thing. Will work fine for weeks then just refuse to post randomly. Resetting BIOS will fix it - but it’s still annoying and I’ve never determined exactly what causes it.
Hello, I have a question that I hope you can give me a short answer to. have tried to find an answer without success. I have always used the same 4 pcs. 4GB memory chips 16GB. (CORSAIR VENGEANCE BLUE 1600MHz 4GB 9-9-9-24 1.50V) With an Asus sabertooth 990fx and AMD FX8350 It worked fine for many years until I installed win11. Then I started getting a blue screen. It took approx. 1 week between when it happened. After a lot of troubleshooting and testing with other memory chips, I found that only the first 2 memory chip slots worked. I came to the conclusion that it was the memory controller in the processor CPU. which was destroyed. Since this is not a new CPU, I managed to buy it used and cheap and had my theory confirmed. In the meantime before I bought a new CPU. then I built another computer from parts I had. A computer that was not quite complete. same year and actually the same system AM3+ but a different motherboard from the same year (Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 v1.2) a typical gaming motherboard from that era. The strange thing was that the 4 of these memory chips I had did not work and my computer would not work. Then I took out one memory stick and replaced it with another memory stick (Corsair Dominator 1333MHz 4 GB 1.65V 9-9-9-24 XMP) and set memory chips in bios to 1600MHz and timing manually 9-9-9-24. it has so far worked perfectly without any errors. My question is as follows. 1. Why did I have to replace one memory stick with another to make my computer work? Do you have any theory on this? After testing, I know that all 4 pcs. stick works without problems. 2. I tried some Overclocking programs in win 11 which were unstable and destroyed another set of 4 pcs. memory stick, that's what I think was the cause. I hadn't even set anything in the programs since they crashed. Can such a program destroy a memory stick? Do you have experience or a theory?
Most likely debris in the cpu socket (Graham picked out a strand of hair or fabric, thermal paste and possibly a bead of rosin under a pin) though they were never 100% sure.
@@adventtrooper I'd have bet on the thermal paste on one of the pins causing the problem. I've seen the same problem before and cleaning the pins fixed it.
kinda silly that until ryzen started coming out, most intel CPUs had a lot of overclocking headroom. now all the CPUs are basically overclocked out of the box because who cared about efficency if you can get a 1% performance boost. the customer is paying for the electricity, not the CPU manufacturers.
Yes he was. Did you notice how he had to recharge his stomach with beer and nibbles just in case his CPU (calories per unit) went down! Plus, I didn't know you could get pants in the width.
They power a circuit expecting 3-4v. So dipping below 3v can start causing issues. Most PCs will run lower than that, but I've seen many laptops that won't boot if the cell is lower than 3v. I fully agree that it's daft and only using a fraction of the cell's actual capacity, but also this is not what the CR2032 was designed for.
My first step would be to switch out the power supply. I used to build and repair a lot of systems for people and those Corsair CX-M series of power supplies were absolutely horrendous. They would either work for a few weeks - a few months then would send the computer into a non-stop boot loop. Sometimes it wouldnt POST. Sometimes it would and let you get to desktop before going into boot loop. RMA'd quite a few units - all eventually having the same problem and this problem went away when I switched over to using EVGA GQ power supplies. Other people have had success with the CX line of power supplies but I strictly wont use them. I do rate Corsair's higher tier power supplies quite highly though.
PSU is a good shout, yea. I was late testing a different PSU in this instance because it had started and worked for a short time already, which put me off the idea of PSU. But yea, once we were past all the BIOS resets, that's when I reached for another power supply.
@@Adamant_IT Power supply is always my first step. Once i know the power supply is solid, that's one big part of the puzzle instantly out of the way. Obviously I still do a visual inspection first before the power supply swap to see if something doesn't look quite right before i do anything. Everyone has their own steps of diagnosing but thats how i do it when faced with the looping issue. PSU first then move on to other things if issues still persist.
An i7 2600K should run 4.5GHz -5GHz all day long. Or this is the worst 2600K i've ever seen. Its acting like a 3770K. That's when they stopped using solder and went to the 22nm node. Also, 3rd Gen (ivy bridge) i7's (77watts) didn't clock as high as 2nd Gen. I actually lucked out and got a 5GHz 3770K. Still running today.
We saw the CPU at 120watts peak, and in the final overclock we'd pulled down the voltage slightly to reduce heat, which put us at about 105-110. GTX 960 2GB is a 120w TDP. I'll be amazed if the entire system can pull more than 250watts worst-case scenario.
Hey, I had the exact same problem, with the same motherboard (P8P67m) and the same CPU (2600K). The reduction of contacts surface between the pins socket and the CPU caused an over oxydation on one pad of the CPU (and also the CPU pin I think). Cleaned with some isopropanol, reseated the CPU and works like a charm 24/7 since almost 3 years now (encoding server). I also had to downgrade the BIOS because the newer version of the BIOS didn't took the OC settings as well as the n-2 version (or n-3 I don't remember).
That was a entertaining video. I saw myself 3 years ago troubleshooting my old machine.
Great video! Love those troubleshooting and repair videos. Keep 'em coming.
was a fun stream.. cpu pins, motherboard version mix Pro vs non pro, and TPU switch that needs hot melt glue to stay off permanent!
What a pain that one was. Good to see you show the button cell reasoning. Any mobo I get that's more than 2 years old, or the that's showing less than 3.2V I replace that straight away. It can cause all sorts of weird issues with the older BIOS's.
Looked to me like the heat cycling was casing the pin with the crap under it to walk, thus causing instability.
21:44 You dialled in 100x40 in the BIOS, but the CPU ran at 4.4GHz.
It worked at 4.4 when you put a bigger cooler on it because it wasn't at 90c.
All the messing with the socket pins was irrelevant.
Always verify your overclock, it'll save a lot of time 🙂
very cool! The 2600K was the CPU I had before upgrading to a Ryzen 3700x. I did try overclocking it but the heatsink was not great (still better than the one in this video!!) and I didn't like the extra noise from the fan. So I went back to stock settings. I had that CPU for 10+ years, as Intel basically stopped improving after that.
I ran my 2600K for 10 years and upgraded to a 3700X too. I actually still use the 2600K system from time to time but it no longer runs 24/7 like it used to. It was a beast!
@@CoMmAnDrX i use i7 3770 (as secondary pc for winxp retro gaming (gtx 650ti gpu) 1gb) 12gb ram z77ds3h gigabytte board 2tb hdd 64gbmsata ssd
First two pieces of crud were in the VSS and VCC pin locations, this won't cause an issue as there is a lot of them. The brown flake was right over a Data Strobe pin.
I happened to me that one hair of me, fall on the CPU socket while changing CPUs (LGA1155)
I didn't knew it and assembled everything, didn't POST and speakers started giving memory beeps.
Disconnected everything, removed ram and all.
Only when i took the cpu out and found a hair of mine laying around 4 pins, blow that out and the pc worked again.
Curious but something you learn for example.
I work at an e-waste recycler in the QC department working on all incoming machines, so no POST hell is my life lol. I really identified with this one. Keep up the great content.
...dell T7600...
Love the highlights of the live stream.
Great video!
Very nice of you to cable manage a PC in which the CPU cooler chewed on Your finger the day before Great work.👍👍
When waiting for cmos reset you only really need to wait for the caps on the mobo & psu to discharge. Flick it off at the switch and wait for the light on the mobo to go off, you also sometimes get an audible pop when your fully discharged from the onboard audio if you have speakers or headphones plugged in. Should be good to go after a few secs.
hi there, is the acoustic foams on the walls for noise reduction?
Yes, they get rid of echo in the room.
good job i did watch it all on Sunday day after you did it as time hear in Australia makes it very late it was about 3am when you started well done
I watched the entire podcast, but I'll stay here to give you view time :)
Once, and just once, I saw a case that the power button was jamming on the back to normal state and it holds pressed, but the fault was, according to customer, "sometimes it boots, sometimes it turn on and shut down shortly after". Solution: new case (was one of those cheap made) so the power button don't stick or disable the power button and use reset as power button.
What I mean is, check if reset button is stuck, it would cause this symptom
I have the same CPU and motherboard with a 750 ti Gpu , I had the same problem , changed the bios battery and it continued ro have an issue, so I took the battery out , and held the power button in for about 5 minutes, put it back in , computer booted up and is still going strong 2 years later , I gave it to my mother and father in law. It's actually a pretty decent Gaming machine for its day .
I had this same problem onetime with a clients pc and after i checked evrything like you guys did but as soon as i took the cpu out and cleaned the cpu pins gently with 99.9% isoprophol it worked for me as well. Well done lol. We all love IT lol haha.
As you mentioned, the base clock overclock changes the pci link and the memory speed. Faster memory and faster pci express bus can help the system overall.
I've had A LOT of success cleaning paste off things using a residueless contact cleaner. it simply liquefies the paste which then drains away.
fair warning these cleaners often CONDUCT ELECTRICITY so make sure to wait 69 times more than you'd expect for it to evaporate completely and also apply some air to help.
I like how you troubleshoot in depth and I imagine your customers really appreciate it! Thank You for doing what you do!
My new gaming pc I built is BSOD Page_Fault_In_Non_Paged_Area Ntsokrnl and ntfs.sys failure randomly over the past 10 months. After Windows login, while watching videos, playing gta 5. Etc, always page fault bsod for the past 6 months or more since I did a windows reinstall. It's really frustrating and I'm at the point where I'm going to take it to Canada Computers and see if they can find and fix the problem! Wish me luck, been trying to fix the problem for almost a year and after recently buying and installing an EVGA 1600w G2 psu with the issue persisting I'm pretty much ready for a qualified technician to assess the issues here.
With a variety of errors like that's I'd be expecting RAM issues, so Memtest86 would be my first move.
ntfs.sys also points at storage problems, so any HDDs/SSDs are suspect as well. RAM first though, because bad RAM or XMP issues will cause other things (like ntfs.sys) to potentially fall over as red herrings.
@@Adamant_IT Ahh ok, so I ran a memtest86 off usb bootable from bios with D O C P On at 3600mhz and after 7 hours 25 minutes it said PASS with my 2 32gb sticks of corsair vengeance lpx cl18 3600mhz RAM in the board at the same time, so I don't know if having them on DOCP is skipping over potential errors not running at JEDEC speed 2133 or whatever but, the only other thing I have on in the bios that I changed was Resizeable bar/SAM since I'm AMD gpu and cpu and want to get the most out of my build. (Asus tuf oc 6900xt edition, 5900x ryzen)
I used CrystalDiskInfo to check my WD BLACK SN850 2TB W HEATSINK AND WD BLUE NAND SATA 2TB M.2'S and they both said 100% healthy on the program, for reference I use ASUS ROG STRIX X 570 E GAMING MOBO. I am at a complete loss as to what to do next when I thought it could be the power supply. What would you do in this scenario? Thank You very much for your response.
PSU, maybe... Worth plugging in a different one if you can. I'd also try connecting a different SSD and do a clean install of windows, just to eliminate any software problems here. How often does the crash happen?
@@Adamant_IT I tried installing a new power supply, the 1600w is the new one, took out the 850 thermaltake toughpower and it is still blue screening with Page Fault and Ntoskrnl is the faulty driver/system file in bluescreen viewer. I do not have access to another M.2 or SSD, sadly, and can only try reinstalling windows at this point which I am pretty much at if I am going to do anything further before taking it to the computer service shop.
The crashes occur frequently when playing gta 5, single player and online and Red Dead 2 singleplayer or online. I was having blue screens like this for the first month of the pc being built, I reinstalled windows in February, and the problems persisted until July, I stopped playing the games that would cause the blue screens a lot, I went 4 months almost with no crashes/blue screens and was only playing WoW for those months, but after I started playing GTA 5 to test the system again, it was blue screening in 1 minute to 5 minutes every time, same blue screen page fault in non paged area, with bottom of blue screen being purply garbled pixels in a band across the monitor not sure if that is a graphics issue when the screen does that but it is noticeable since it takes up the bottom third of the blue screen.
Now the blue screens are happening again like before July just doing windows stuff like watching videos, logging into windows after password, that kind of stuff, really random times but frequently enough that it can happen multiple times daily or even once a week depending on what games I play or what I do with the system. Truly confused with what is causing the problem. GTA5 seems to have caused some sort of instability or triggered the blue screens to happen more often again.
- Edit a few minutes ago I turned on the pc, was able to delete some sensitive files then RIGHT after I delete those files I blue screened with the black bar at the bottom of it right under NTFS.SYS, it went into automatic repair and it blue screened again before it could do anything, it restarted and blue screened again so I just held the power button and turned it off. Not sure at all what to do other than take it to a professional on Sunday.
What do you think Adamant IT?
For 6 months I had intermittent system hangs and BSOD with error KERNAL_WATCHDOG_TIMER_LIMIT_EXCEEDED or something similar.
Solution? Update the BIOS, for some reason my mobo had a version from before that socket was even officially launched.
These Asus boards are sold on aliexpress they're used and theres alot of stock, they were likely used in a server farm long term and arent clean so I always use a aerosol IPA on the cpu socket and memory slots.
Only found this channel today. Loving the channel, loving the enthusiasm. Are you based in the UK?
Breadcrum stuck to glass of cider fell onto beard then onto CPU. Sherlock Holmes here.
Oké no ram test and thermal paste change?
Can you point me in the direction of that list of Overclock Values? Ive an old i5 2500K stuck at 3.7Ghz ( 16Gb of Ram ) It used to do a good 4.2 but i havent been able to get it stable for a long time. But its stable at 3.7, BUT i wouldnt mind it back as it was.
That looks like it was hard work, well done it made a interesting video. Chris
Hi, I've got a 960GM-VGS3 ASROCK mb with a SEMPRON SDX145HBK13GM CPU. It starts fans but doesn't post, chipset and other regions are moderately hot but cpu is nearly cold. Any idea?
I never could figure out what that TPU switch was for, my 2nd Gen motherboard is from the product line but the highest end I could find on eBay. Got that i7-2700K to go up to 4.9 GHz which to me is mindblowing.
Power cycling when the power is cut is normal behaviour on some moterboards (usually the older ones, my z77 does the same and also a z170, both asus motherboards)
21:40 VID is not Vcore, VID is what the cpu will ask for in automatic, vcore is only close to VID when it is set to auto, otherwise it's the manual voltage or offset from VID
31:30 am a bit confused why you keep putting a GPU back in during no post hell? 2600K has an iGPU.
Is your no-post based on no video output? Or the mobo 7-segment code?
Doesn't really matter if you use a graphics card or iGPU, a lot of the time it's force of habit, because most AMD systems don't have an iGPU. No Video is the biggest indicator of a No POST, but there are a lot of other minor signs as well, such as drive activity, fans ramping up or slowing down, etc. 7-segment codes, beeps, etc are all more information, but if the system has POSTed with no video output, you can tell from how everything else is behaving. I've been wrong in the past though, so definitely something to be mindful of.
@@Adamant_IT yep that makes a lot of sense, I've not dealt with any AMD desktops for so long that didn't occur to me. Just went red team but hopefully won't have any no post for time.
Great video
ran a 2600K till this year, but was full water so can't tell you the temperatures! Or overclock as I did water for the consistency of sound profile in my room
You won a "I ate a hippo t-shirt "
Non tech people doing tech stuff is always a laugh 😃
you fellas should duel up, grab a bevy and bring on the banter. recipe for success!
They do it almost all the Saturdays on the Adamant IT 2 channel.
For reference, I ordered an i7 2600k with motherboard from the UK for a decent price for a server project.
It came with a board, memory, cooler and the whole thing, so I fired it up to to test it and it was a frozen POST, frozen on motherboard logo.
Seller had tested it okay, and I could track it to failing on some initialization related to CPU once it was done talking to RAM.
Long story short, the flaw was actually debris in the socket, a little compressed air and I got it out of there and it currently runs as a champ in the FreeBSD server.
Enjoyed the Blackadder reference...
might wanna chk that thermal paste saw it hit 90 before it wen boom dont know how hot it can get tho and when u guys at end it was hitn 90 as well before you shut it of.
I have to say, the line about moving to Nepal to become a goat about had me die of laughter. Well done!
Ahhh... British humor is always exquisite, though. I miss my traveling days.
Can't wait to make some time for this video!
28:43 "Is the RAM in the correct slots?" Looking at the manual "e5940_P8P67.pdf" page 2-5, the blue slots should be populated first as in your final build at 48:25 (with A2, blue nearest the CPU, for a single stick as used at 33:55). Interestingly, the TPU switch is off by default; there's also an EPU switch for eco mode near the DRAM LED.
30:45 "you ARE uninteresting, you ARE a thermal paste"
That was enjoyable to watch, i love those mystery problems
I swear before you revealed the bios screen i was saying i bet thats an asus board,as i had one which was not overclocked had a perfect cmos battery and was running at stock settings and stock bios. no SSD and decent ram it was never a gaming pc it had the corsair psu and was Amd based it would come on briefly go off and come on and then be fine all day. another day it would just come on fine so yes these are fun.
great vid, thanks for sharing.
Yeah, you want to stick with the CX650/M (2015-2017) bronze rated PSU's and up with the Corsair CX series. You'll notice the rails dropping voltages most of the time if it's the PSU. Going by software. Also, HWinfo64 has great sensor support with these older boards.
I really like the idea of edit the Stream.
i had to add a usb card to my pc too...the ones on the mobo never worked
On 40:40 it looks like a pin is completely gone? At 44:30 its there again? WTF
Or " Non Productive " lol Cheers Graham.. Would have been nice if You'd included some of the chat Comments RE: Helping Diagnosing the PC .... What's on this Weeks Menu Sir ??
what is your definition of interwebs?
I really feel some sort of cross reference document is needed to put various products and faults into a matrix is later remembered
so after all that u doind two changes at once. pulled the usb card and changed ram at same time
I had an asus board that would take 2 posts to boot, until one day it just never posted again. I burnt the board with a dodgy power supply trying to test it, and it was kinda meh anyways so I replaced it.
sounds like an overclock safety reboot.
Drinking cider and repairs :D always fun
I had an interesting issue earlier in the year, had a Asus Sabertooth 990fx rev 2 motherboard that suddenly stopped booting, did loads of tests, bought a new cpu, still nothing, changed the ram to the one in my spare pc, and it booted fine. Shut it down and put everything back to how it was, booted up and started with the same error again. turns out the motherboard was frying my ram sitcks, 2 lots of 16gb ddr3 stopped working in that board and my spare pc (an HP 6300) ended up replacing my sons whole pc. Never seen a board fry ram like that before.
I've seen it once, recently, on a really really awful chinesium mobo. First and only time I've seen it also.
RAM slot one is nearest the CPU for memory addressing. I would put RAM sticks in slots 1 & 3.
i had that attempting to write to read only error and it was my ram overclock 1330 to 1600 ddr3 on a i7 4790
I am at the part where you are examining the CPU temps in CPUID HW Monitor and I wonder if you had considered the thermal paste is way past it "use by date" and needs replaced after approximately 10 years. I am making an ASS out of U and ME in that the paste hasn't been replaced in all that time. It's just a thought that new paste may drop that high temps a bit. On the Gen 2 CPU in the cases I obtained just recently, new thermal paste dropped the temps by around 12°C.
If you get short of content to publish Graham then consider throwing up some B Roll footage that you may have. I feel you may find the "stuff" you find mundane or run of the mill will be of interest to many of your viewers.
*Thank You* for the videos as they are greatly appreciated and this one was real good for me with the overclocking info because I never got into overclocking so I know diddly squat about it. 👍👍
I've been building pcs for myself for years now, but the last situation I had was absolutely the worst I had come across for myself personally, I had a perfectly good working pc it had an old I7 and gtx 1070 it was a great little pc never had issues until one day I decided to clean it as I had done quite regularly, I vape and my computer room is pretty small even though I do have the window open the pc sucks it all in and hence why I kept It clean as best I can, this time took the side off cleaned all the vape oil off the fans etc and put the pc back under my desk and reached behind to put the display port cable back in, I struggled at first then finally found out I had tried to put it in the hdmi port, so start it up and its struggling, it kept looking like its about to start but just does not happen, so check everything over and over change the power supply it seems better but will not start, I then try a different much older graphics card and it all works, I'm gutted I had some how broken my old reliable 1070 but how, I strip it down clean it re-paste then finally give up, so go on ebay and end up bidding around £200 on another similar 1070, in the mean time I'm still trying to fault find the 1070 then suddenly it dawns on me the moment I put the display port in the hdmi port could that have done something, low and behold the hdmi port is broken the little plastic piece in the middle is chewed on one corner so the pins are all touching which shorted and damaged the power supply, I use tweezers to gently remove the offending pins so at least they don't touch each other, put it back in the pc, plug the display cable in and it works perfectly and still works to this day. Now the bidding ends on the other graphics card and I win so have to pay out £200 for a card i did not need in the end!
So why not use usb3 cards? inquiring minds want to know.
They're notoriously unreliable. No idea why. There's like, only one or two chipsets for cheap USB3 cards and they're both terrible. Super expensive cards are fine, but these cheap cards just... die.
As always, some folks will use them and never ever have a problem, but yea, I avoid them unless they're really needed. If I were building this computer, I'd have just gotten a converter and plugged the USB3 front port into a USB2 header and told the customer to use the rear ports if they need speed.
@@Adamant_IT from what I've been told, the ones that are powered by the PCIe slot are unreliable, however you can get cheap ones that are powered by Molex/SATA. I've been using a Molex powered card I got from aliexpress for years and still works to this day! I also have some USB 2.0 PCI ones from the 2000s that came in some old PCs I got at some point, still working.
ShOcK & AWE "audio quality"... just saying. You have truly found the right road for success with that RØDE mic. Sweet!
They're OK. They're a bit fussy for positioning, and kinda sound like a headset, rather than being in the room - condenser mic gives a better atmosphere IMHO. But the Wireless Go is an incredibly convenient solution with decent quality 👍
I found Blender to be much more picky about overclocking on my aging Ryzen 2700 rig. Cinebench is easy to install but not that reliable. Prime95 just produces a ton of heat, good for cooler testing but again, not testing stability much.
very weird as prime is still one of the best stability tests.
prime uses avx by default so maybe blender hammers yer cpu in weird ways? you might have stumbled onto a weird case for blender so.. care to share blender version and a project which crashes the machine where prime doesn't?
oh btw cinebench is not a stability rest. it's not even that hard on the cpu to begin with. and it's super short.
@@emperorSbraz I know, it's a performance test. Though it now has a 10-minute mode to fix the length of the test. Cinebench uses 100% of the CPU time, but not all its capabilities.
I'm not sure which generation Intel started doing this but most motherboard manufacturers went from a external clock generator to a chipset integrated one, a few select boards still use an external clock gen which still allows for base clock overclocking, but as your friend stated bclk overclocking doesn't just overclock the CPU it overclocks every subsystem in the computer that bases it's clocks off that bclk and is generally unstable past 2 or 3 mhz over spec with boards without external clock gen.
Edit: TJMax for the 1st 2nd and 3rd gen Core series was only around 75c and it stomped all over that and ran way past it, 75c+ is not safe on the first few generations of Core chips, rule of thumb never overclock with a stock cooler especially an Intel stock cooler they are absolute garbage.
I put together a free system for my girlfriend with the same mobo and cpu combo as this - it does the same thing. Will work fine for weeks then just refuse to post randomly. Resetting BIOS will fix it - but it’s still annoying and I’ve never determined exactly what causes it.
Ypur parner there needs his own mic. Hes very soft spoken compaired to you. Ty
A little pebble caused a lot of problems.
ITS 13 YERS OLd PC !! P67 ?!?!?! TO THE BIN !!
Ah I witnessed it live, was brilliant. Much alcohol was consumed, would recommend.
Keep up the good work
Hello, I have a question that I hope you can give me a short answer to. have tried to find an answer without success.
I have always used the same 4 pcs. 4GB memory chips 16GB.
(CORSAIR VENGEANCE BLUE 1600MHz 4GB 9-9-9-24 1.50V)
With an Asus sabertooth 990fx and
AMD FX8350
It worked fine for many years until I installed win11.
Then I started getting a blue screen. It took approx. 1 week between when it happened. After a lot of troubleshooting and testing with other memory chips, I found that only the first 2 memory chip slots worked. I came to the conclusion that it was the memory controller in the processor CPU. which was destroyed.
Since this is not a new CPU, I managed to buy it used and cheap and had my theory confirmed.
In the meantime before I bought a new CPU. then I built another computer from parts I had. A computer that was not quite complete. same year and actually the same system AM3+ but a different motherboard from the same year
(Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 v1.2) a typical gaming motherboard from that era. The strange thing was that the 4 of these memory chips I had did not work and my computer would not work.
Then I took out one memory stick and replaced it with another memory stick
(Corsair Dominator 1333MHz 4 GB 1.65V 9-9-9-24 XMP)
and set memory chips in bios to 1600MHz and timing manually
9-9-9-24. it has so far worked perfectly without any errors.
My question is as follows.
1. Why did I have to replace one memory stick with another to make my computer work? Do you have any theory on this? After testing, I know that all 4 pcs. stick works without problems.
2. I tried some Overclocking programs in win 11 which were unstable and destroyed another set of 4 pcs. memory stick, that's what I think was the cause. I hadn't even set anything in the programs since they crashed. Can such a program destroy a memory stick? Do you have experience or a theory?
was it a bad ssd?
dont have the time to watch more than 25mins
Most likely debris in the cpu socket (Graham picked out a strand of hair or fabric, thermal paste and possibly a bead of rosin under a pin) though they were never 100% sure.
@@adventtrooper I'd have bet on the thermal paste on one of the pins causing the problem. I've seen the same problem before and cleaning the pins fixed it.
cmos battery is still good at 1.5v, 2.0 or above is still good
O these LGA-pins ... a true hell , I'm, lucky to still have PGA (AMD AM3 )
lol... true hell if you're completely incompetent. Never have I ever had issues with LGA
@@crylune -
LGA is more sensitive mechanically & in cooler pressure
@@Killerspieler0815 why does that matter if you know how to install a CPU and a cooler?
Maybe the motherboard is tired of being a machine?
kinda silly that until ryzen started coming out, most intel CPUs had a lot of overclocking headroom. now all the CPUs are basically overclocked out of the box because who cared about efficency if you can get a 1% performance boost. the customer is paying for the electricity, not the CPU manufacturers.
If that's the case why does my 14900K remain at 120W maximum in demanding games, just like my i7-8700 did - except at MUCH higher clocks?
Worked for a church, would get a call. Arrived and of course no fault.
The soft chubby guy is an awesome human
Yes he was. Did you notice how he had to recharge his stomach with beer and nibbles just in case his CPU (calories per unit) went down! Plus, I didn't know you could get pants in the width.
@@jackfrost304 Goddamn aren't you just the master of comedy. My laugh shall be delivered in 3 Neptunian business years, good sir.
I take you ripped out every USB addon.
The Bios could have ransome wear and not even a Bios upgrade or downgrade erases the chips without a manual programmer
Good to keep in mind, but I've never ever seen a BIOS virus in the wild. Not something I'd plan for.
Do you know going to live in Nepal as goat wouldn’t be all that bad free room and board free food
i have had this CPU over 10 years runing 4.5 and stil going fine...
If I got to the 25:00 mark, I'll probably try memtest after it boots again
2.8volts isn't that low they are only supposed to be 3volts anyway
Yes but PC Bios's pretty much considers that critically low
They power a circuit expecting 3-4v. So dipping below 3v can start causing issues. Most PCs will run lower than that, but I've seen many laptops that won't boot if the cell is lower than 3v.
I fully agree that it's daft and only using a fraction of the cell's actual capacity, but also this is not what the CR2032 was designed for.
how many usbs? Answer: Yes
My first step would be to switch out the power supply. I used to build and repair a lot of systems for people and those Corsair CX-M series of power supplies were absolutely horrendous. They would either work for a few weeks - a few months then would send the computer into a non-stop boot loop. Sometimes it wouldnt POST. Sometimes it would and let you get to desktop before going into boot loop. RMA'd quite a few units - all eventually having the same problem and this problem went away when I switched over to using EVGA GQ power supplies.
Other people have had success with the CX line of power supplies but I strictly wont use them. I do rate Corsair's higher tier power supplies quite highly though.
And you would have been wrong, as it had nothing at all to do with the power supply.
I guess you dont understand how diagnosing/fault finding works.
PSU is a good shout, yea. I was late testing a different PSU in this instance because it had started and worked for a short time already, which put me off the idea of PSU. But yea, once we were past all the BIOS resets, that's when I reached for another power supply.
@@Adamant_IT Power supply is always my first step.
Once i know the power supply is solid, that's one big part of the puzzle instantly out of the way. Obviously I still do a visual inspection first before the power supply swap to see if something doesn't look quite right before i do anything.
Everyone has their own steps of diagnosing but thats how i do it when faced with the looping issue.
PSU first then move on to other things if issues still persist.
We got 1 CX650 power supply, and yes, it's dead.
The CV series though seems to be fine, seen a few of them recently, CV650 works like a charm.
Haven't watched yet, bet it is the CMOS chip though.
Computers are like women. Sometimes you just can't figure them out but you're just glad everything is working again.
"haha women bad :(((( is it any wonder why i dont get touched :(((" - you, probably
250.00 repair 150.00 computer ....lol
cpu issues a 5 beep
Modern version of "Flip and Flap" IT flavour (just for reference ruclips.net/video/DzvF_eMzxPg/видео.html)
👍👍👍
An i7 2600K should run 4.5GHz -5GHz all day long. Or this is the worst 2600K i've ever seen. Its acting like a 3770K. That's when they stopped using solder and went to the 22nm node. Also, 3rd Gen (ivy bridge) i7's (77watts) didn't clock as high as 2nd Gen. I actually lucked out and got a 5GHz 3770K. Still running today.
Sil nice
Laurel & Hardy🤣🤣🤣🤣
Is that chin fluff for a bet?
There's no way that power supply can support all cores at 4.1 ghz
We saw the CPU at 120watts peak, and in the final overclock we'd pulled down the voltage slightly to reduce heat, which put us at about 105-110. GTX 960 2GB is a 120w TDP.
I'll be amazed if the entire system can pull more than 250watts worst-case scenario.
why not? You only need a 450w PSU to run this system at full pelt.
i comment as i watch live or not.
pull the cpu cooler first and repaste