lol I notice I say “um” a lot …it’s just the perfect “filler” word lol -it’s so hard not to say it!!! Question…what kind of test do you do, or what do you use, to figure out what’s in your water…iron vs. limescale??
@@DetailsNMe I don't know actually, however you can usually tell by how the water spots look. If it's very white and ashy, that's limescale. Iron usually makes the water stink like farts, find that a lot with well water, and of course you'll see things light up purple when you use iron remover which is usually a sign.
Thanks for the update. For future reference, do DIY Detail Iron Remover with the Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel before the DIY Detail Water Spot Remover. The mechanical decontamination will remove some of the minerals making the DIY Detail Water Spot Remover more effective. Also please wear gloves!
Ive been noticing a similar trend for these multi year DIY coatings of the water behavior just vanishing or being very weak not long after application. Im not trying to start drama or be negative, i love their products, but the coatings seem to be not as strong in the water repellency and it makes me question how they can make the claim of 8 years of protection. Question for you kind sir, was the slickness and other properties of the coating (except the hydrophobic behavior) still there, or were those gone as well? Thanks for the update and great videos as usual.
Most companies rate their coatings based on scrub testing, as beading is not the only aspect that is important and why most coating companies have a topper to maintain the beading. I've tested so many at it happens with all of them really. Paint is still very slick feeling.
The primary purpose of a coating is to provide protection. While beading is a great aspect, it’s not the only consideration. Adding a drying aid once in a while will maintain the beading, or decontaminating more often. In this demonstration Martin didn’t do a mechanical decontamination, that would have restored much more beading.
@@diydetailofficial Thank you very much for the reply, so your coatings are manufactured for paint protection first and the beading can be reinvigorated with decons and ceramic toppers that are made to bond better with coatings. Thank you so much for the clarification, sorry for my confusion.
If im doing a full decon on a coating, I'll hit it with an alkaline wash like Carpro Lift or NV Snow+ via foam cannon, let dwell, rinse thoroughly, then follow with an acidic wash such as Carpro Descale also via foam cannon again letting it dwell then thorough rinse. After this I'll either bucket wash with either one of these products depending whether im going after road grime or water spots. But you can also do one after the other. You could then if needed, use a dedicated waterspot remover and iron remover to spray on and spread with a soft towel then rinse. If I'm not seeing much improvement in water behaviour then I'd be thinking about reapplying another coating.
I got better results than that from Gyeon ONE, one year coating after almost a year and a half it’s still beading well. And that’s after lots of highway driving in a harsh winter, and parked outside 24/7. What is that 8 year going to look like in a few more years?
Man, I’ve used gtechniq CSL for over 5 years now. I’ve got a work truck that stays super muddy and gets a lot of grease ect on it from heavy machinery. This truck is literally trashed Mon-Friday and I maintain it every two weeks . CSL has held up flawlessly going on 4 years now. I love DIY stuff and have used their 5 year about 30 times so far , but this is unacceptable imo
I have the 8 year on my GLI and I do weekly washes both rinseless and shampoo. I don’t use many toppers and my drying aid is normally a rinseless spray. I still have phenomenal beading and I’m at almost 2 years. Not sure why Martins is reacting that way? To be honest, Martin knows more about this stuff than I do lol. For reference I’m near the Washington DC area.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa That’s just it, conditions vary so much that no one test will be the same. Curious to see how other coating are gonna hold up in comparison. Keep the content coming!🏎️
I wouldnt write this coating off. I would take a few more steps than what was used here, to ensure I'd covered all bases in decontamination. Coating may need a more thorough decon to restore its water behaviour. As Martin stated , the rear of the car can get really filthy and might need more help than other areas of the car
I wonder if it might benefit from an alkaline presoak (All Clean or similar), clay towel and potentially an additional water spot remover treatment with more dwell time. I think the touchless washes have potentially left it pretty contaminated and you may need to put a bit more effort/chemical into it .
It gets washed with alkaline pre wash and acid wash every couple months by hand. Clay is only gonna remove embedded contaminants which there were none that could be felt. Most touchless washes are just high pressure alkaline baths anyway. Some use acid, and then a really weak wax for shine that gets removed with ant basic soap. The chemicals really are not all that strong. My touchless wash chemicals from chem-X work better than commercial washes.
I was gonna buy this DIY ceramic coating but after this video.. I’m not so sure. What’s the best coating you’ve experienced? I was thinking Gyeon MOHS? I hear a lot of good things about Cquartz UK 3.0? Hmm..
I drive the same distance and park indoors at night and outdoor all day in the hot sun. I know everyone wants the new small boutique brands but my Gtechniq CSL+ exo v5 still beading like day 1 over a year later. I haven't even had to decon of any sort, outside of 2 alkaline pre washes. Usually just ph neutral soaps or rinseless.
Good job. I believe adding All Clean, Iron Remover, and PSD Towel to the process, may have revealed more favorable results. Iron contamination has little to do with the water supply and mostly with the brakes. Not just yours, bet everyone around you when driving! Also, Kia engines are more prone to burning oil, which can accumulate residue on the back of the vehicle. Which is why the back 1/3 of the vehicle had more sheeting. All Clean would have been more effective at removing that "oil" film.
Oh believe me the car has been seeing every decon process there is, I just have to recorded it all. Kia also uses mostly direct injection engines which run pretty rich so you get all that soot coming out of the exhaust as well.
I thought most iron contaminants came from car brakes, when cars break in front of you the dust it’s your clear coat, but that doesn’t explain why it so bad in the back, so who knows
on the lower panels yes, generally from a lack of protection and/or lack of keeping the car clean. they sit on there long enough they rust and embed into the paint. the reason it's so bad in the back is because your car creates a vacuum of air behind it, easier to see when its raining, but when driving forward that vacuum pulls all the crap and debris back in close. thats why the backs of vehicles get so much more dirty than the rest.
The way they test is for UV blocking that I've seen. They don't block UV rays. They protect paint against oxidizing due to UV exposure. Inhibition I suppose.
Durability comes down to many factors both in and out of our control. I applied a 12 month coating to my wifes car inJune 2022. Its a daily driver sitting out in weather 9 hours a day but garaged overnight . The coating is still beading really well with no dead spots. I wash it maybe one every 2 to 3 weeks. Dont top it with anything. Whilst some coatings may not last their stated claims, I only ever use this as a best case scenario.
Oh man, that's just.. I'm disappointed, yeah we can all say,,beading is just one aspect of a coating" but it's the most important one, it's the visual indicator of a healthy working coating, gloss is subjective and it comes mostly from polishing and state of the paint, beading helps with self cleaning, helps drying (with sheeting). How am I supposed to assess the coatings good healthy state if it's not beading?Sheeting slowly? For me it's a dying coating. Slickness is also not a good indicator as some coatings are not slick from the installation...I'm sorry but my CanCoat Evo (2 layers) on my daily wich is 24/7 outside and is abused as they go and I just did the first decon after a year, and does a LOT of miles daily (30-50) is looking WAY better than this. Actually the beading is godlike still like day one (except a small part on the left front fender - something fishy there 🤔) I don't want to bash, I have almost All DIY products and I love them but I'm sad about this performance -also I have the 3yr waiting for my daily but I think I'll sell it and stick to Gyeon and Carpro. Plus 8 yr is like 2$ xMohs 30ml 😕 What's your next coating Martin? How did you like the DQuartz Go? Not much info on that one online.
Oh and wanted to add we have harsh winters here in eastern EU.. So it was a real test for CanCoat and I'm srsly amazed by it. I wash it weekly though, mostly with rinsless.
@@victoryensured7137 i swear, winter road salt and the high limescale in the water and dirt in Texas behave completely differently. Limescale seems to really affect certain coatings negatively.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa Im really interested in the Dquartz, nothing on YT on it... why.. :( I think Mike G tested Armor pro, it performed good but nothing to write home about, and some in the comments even said for a pro coating it was pretty meh, but i can be wrong (as i often am), so many coatings it's a little mixed up at this point.
@victoryensured7137 Dquartz Go is barely even a year on the market, so won't be much about it anytime soon. That and Carpro doesn't promote like some of these other brands do so you won't see the youtubers looking for the next hot trend review it. Mike G and I chat with Carpro US regularly so we are fortunate enough to get our hands on the new products first.
![[HELPFUL] Ceramic Coating Maintenance (Cquartz UK + SiC 1 Year Update)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tE6aEOzSuyc/mqdefault.jpg)
How many times did I go "umm" in this video?
Yes
Yes 😂
lol I notice I say “um” a lot …it’s just the perfect “filler” word lol -it’s so hard not to say it!!!
Question…what kind of test do you do, or what do you use, to figure out what’s in your water…iron vs. limescale??
@@DetailsNMe I don't know actually, however you can usually tell by how the water spots look. If it's very white and ashy, that's limescale. Iron usually makes the water stink like farts, find that a lot with well water, and of course you'll see things light up purple when you use iron remover which is usually a sign.
Thanks for the update. For future reference, do DIY Detail Iron Remover with the Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel before the DIY Detail Water Spot Remover. The mechanical decontamination will remove some of the minerals making the DIY Detail Water Spot Remover more effective. Also please wear gloves!
Ive been noticing a similar trend for these multi year DIY coatings of the water behavior just vanishing or being very weak not long after application. Im not trying to start drama or be negative, i love their products, but the coatings seem to be not as strong in the water repellency and it makes me question how they can make the claim of 8 years of protection.
Question for you kind sir, was the slickness and other properties of the coating (except the hydrophobic behavior) still there, or were those gone as well? Thanks for the update and great videos as usual.
Most companies rate their coatings based on scrub testing, as beading is not the only aspect that is important and why most coating companies have a topper to maintain the beading. I've tested so many at it happens with all of them really. Paint is still very slick feeling.
The primary purpose of a coating is to provide protection. While beading is a great aspect, it’s not the only consideration. Adding a drying aid once in a while will maintain the beading, or decontaminating more often. In this demonstration Martin didn’t do a mechanical decontamination, that would have restored much more beading.
@@diydetailofficial Thank you very much for the reply, so your coatings are manufactured for paint protection first and the beading can be reinvigorated with decons and ceramic toppers that are made to bond better with coatings. Thank you so much for the clarification, sorry for my confusion.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa Thank you for the reply and unknown to me knowledge that I've learned today. Keep being awesome!
If im doing a full decon on a coating, I'll hit it with an alkaline wash like Carpro Lift or NV Snow+ via foam cannon, let dwell, rinse thoroughly, then follow with an acidic wash such as Carpro Descale also via foam cannon again letting it dwell then thorough rinse. After this I'll either bucket wash with either one of these products depending whether im going after road grime or water spots. But you can also do one after the other. You could then if needed, use a dedicated waterspot remover and iron remover to spray on and spread with a soft towel then rinse. If I'm not seeing much improvement in water behaviour then I'd be thinking about reapplying another coating.
I got better results than that from Gyeon ONE, one year coating after almost a year and a half it’s still beading well. And that’s after lots of highway driving in a harsh winter, and parked outside 24/7.
What is that 8 year going to look like in a few more years?
I will let you know once amazon delivers my time machine
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa lmao
Man, I’ve used gtechniq CSL for over 5 years now. I’ve got a work truck that stays super muddy and gets a lot of grease ect on it from heavy machinery. This truck is literally trashed Mon-Friday and I maintain it every two weeks . CSL has held up flawlessly going on 4 years now. I love DIY stuff and have used their 5 year about 30 times so far , but this is unacceptable imo
Thanks for the honest update Martin.
As much as I like DIY Detail products, the coating doesn't look very impressive, I will stick with trusted CarPro
Can never go wrong with Carpro
I have the 8 year on my GLI and I do weekly washes both rinseless and shampoo. I don’t use many toppers and my drying aid is normally a rinseless spray. I still have phenomenal beading and I’m at almost 2 years. Not sure why Martins is reacting that way? To be honest, Martin knows more about this stuff than I do lol. For reference I’m near the Washington DC area.
@@Ulinoodle I drive about 60 miles a day. More than the average vehicle.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa That’s just it, conditions vary so much that no one test will be the same. Curious to see how other coating are gonna hold up in comparison. Keep the content coming!🏎️
I wouldnt write this coating off. I would take a few more steps than what was used here, to ensure I'd covered all bases in decontamination. Coating may need a more thorough decon to restore its water behaviour. As Martin stated , the rear of the car can get really filthy and might need more help than other areas of the car
Great video Martin. I have Mohs on right now. Next will most like by something more stout. Mohs has been great, it just clogs so easy.
I wonder if it might benefit from an alkaline presoak (All Clean or similar), clay towel and potentially an additional water spot remover treatment with more dwell time. I think the touchless washes have potentially left it pretty contaminated and you may need to put a bit more effort/chemical into it .
It gets washed with alkaline pre wash and acid wash every couple months by hand. Clay is only gonna remove embedded contaminants which there were none that could be felt. Most touchless washes are just high pressure alkaline baths anyway. Some use acid, and then a really weak wax for shine that gets removed with ant basic soap. The chemicals really are not all that strong. My touchless wash chemicals from chem-X work better than commercial washes.
Unrelated, have you ever used super citrus apc? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Yes. Solid product.
I was gonna buy this DIY ceramic coating but after this video.. I’m not so sure. What’s the best coating you’ve experienced? I was thinking Gyeon MOHS? I hear a lot of good things about Cquartz UK 3.0? Hmm..
Can’t go wrong with DIY 5 yr , gtechniq , ethos Graphene or max shine Graphene Max . All are easy and last a long time .
@@punkr6 thanks so much!
I drive the same distance and park indoors at night and outdoor all day in the hot sun. I know everyone wants the new small boutique brands but my Gtechniq CSL+ exo v5 still beading like day 1 over a year later. I haven't even had to decon of any sort, outside of 2 alkaline pre washes. Usually just ph neutral soaps or rinseless.
I had that with exo v4 years ago. Back looked about the same. Maybe v5 is really improved.
Good job. I believe adding All Clean, Iron Remover, and PSD Towel to the process, may have revealed more favorable results. Iron contamination has little to do with the water supply and mostly with the brakes. Not just yours, bet everyone around you when driving! Also, Kia engines are more prone to burning oil, which can accumulate residue on the back of the vehicle. Which is why the back 1/3 of the vehicle had more sheeting. All Clean would have been more effective at removing that "oil" film.
Oh believe me the car has been seeing every decon process there is, I just have to recorded it all. Kia also uses mostly direct injection engines which run pretty rich so you get all that soot coming out of the exhaust as well.
I think scott from dallas mentioned years ago that the acid in the water spot remover can change the water behavior ... i never tested it, though .
yea i think it just depends on the chemical composition
I thought most iron contaminants came from car brakes, when cars break in front of you the dust it’s your clear coat, but that doesn’t explain why it so bad in the back, so who knows
on the lower panels yes, generally from a lack of protection and/or lack of keeping the car clean. they sit on there long enough they rust and embed into the paint. the reason it's so bad in the back is because your car creates a vacuum of air behind it, easier to see when its raining, but when driving forward that vacuum pulls all the crap and debris back in close. thats why the backs of vehicles get so much more dirty than the rest.
It's because WSR is hydrophobic. 8year ceramic coating almost died afer 1year- lol :D
I show the entire vehicle, coating still very much there. Beading not doing so well in the back, gloss is still very good.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa But it's 1/8 of declaration xDD
@@pAblito280 I have yet to find a coating that doesn't get annihilated on the rear of the vehicle.
DIY details coatings seem to clog super easy and are much higher maintenance. 8 year coating...bunch of bs..will last not even half of that.
From the testing I've seen on RUclips, ceramic-coatings offer zero UV protection
The way they test is for UV blocking that I've seen. They don't block UV rays. They protect paint against oxidizing due to UV exposure. Inhibition I suppose.
8 years 🥴
In terms of water repellancy, this is actually decently disappointing
I think 8 years is a BS claim. I think they over promise and under deliver like so many other ceramic companies.
ruclips.net/video/5St7YxOJANY/видео.htmlsi=OThN377G-1sIKfr1
Durability comes down to many factors both in and out of our control. I applied a 12 month coating to my wifes car inJune 2022. Its a daily driver sitting out in weather 9 hours a day but garaged overnight . The coating is still beading really well with no dead spots. I wash it maybe one every 2 to 3 weeks. Dont top it with anything. Whilst some coatings may not last their stated claims, I only ever use this as a best case scenario.
Oh man, that's just.. I'm disappointed, yeah we can all say,,beading is just one aspect of a coating" but it's the most important one, it's the visual indicator of a healthy working coating, gloss is subjective and it comes mostly from polishing and state of the paint, beading helps with self cleaning, helps drying (with sheeting). How am I supposed to assess the coatings good healthy state if it's not beading?Sheeting slowly? For me it's a dying coating. Slickness is also not a good indicator as some coatings are not slick from the installation...I'm sorry but my CanCoat Evo (2 layers) on my daily wich is 24/7 outside and is abused as they go and I just did the first decon after a year, and does a LOT of miles daily (30-50) is looking WAY better than this. Actually the beading is godlike still like day one (except a small part on the left front fender - something fishy there 🤔) I don't want to bash, I have almost All DIY products and I love them but I'm sad about this performance -also I have the 3yr waiting for my daily but I think I'll sell it and stick to Gyeon and Carpro. Plus 8 yr is like 2$ xMohs 30ml 😕 What's your next coating Martin? How did you like the DQuartz Go? Not much info on that one online.
Dquarts Go is on the hood, still doing good. Will probably use armour quartz pro if I ever find the time
Oh and wanted to add we have harsh winters here in eastern EU.. So it was a real test for CanCoat and I'm srsly amazed by it. I wash it weekly though, mostly with rinsless.
@@victoryensured7137 i swear, winter road salt and the high limescale in the water and dirt in Texas behave completely differently. Limescale seems to really affect certain coatings negatively.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa Im really interested in the Dquartz, nothing on YT on it... why.. :( I think Mike G tested Armor pro, it performed good but nothing to write home about, and some in the comments even said for a pro coating it was pretty meh, but i can be wrong (as i often am), so many coatings it's a little mixed up at this point.
@victoryensured7137 Dquartz Go is barely even a year on the market, so won't be much about it anytime soon. That and Carpro doesn't promote like some of these other brands do so you won't see the youtubers looking for the next hot trend review it. Mike G and I chat with Carpro US regularly so we are fortunate enough to get our hands on the new products first.