I feel you, brother. I spent many years working off the tailgate of my pickup out of a garage (after backing my wife's car out). Shows you can still do impressive work with minimal tools and space. You don't need a 30 x 50 shop with $100,000 worth of tools to do some nice projects.
Coming from a cabinet/furniture builder. that somehow turned out pretty damn beautiful. I might’ve made 50-100 butcher blocks or cutting boards. End grain and side. Usually as a thank you for kitchen remod jobs or as Bday gifts or whatever. Honestly I figured out in 1 min this guy is not too familiar with saws and routers but I gotta say I’m pretty impressed with final product. Only made a handful of herringbone boards. Found out pretty quickly they fall apart after a year or 2 if folks don’t know how to take care. Any hoo, Good work. Turned out great.
You do excellent work. That is impresssive. I always tell myself that I (try to) do the best work that I can with the tools and work space I have, which currently is my front porch! Seems like you have a comparable situation. Thank you for clearly explaining all the steps that you go through. Wonderful piece of work!
The only change I would have made is which side was top and which the bottom. The grain pattern on the bottom of the board is amazing, while the top is just so-so - relatively speaking. The board itself is beautiful, and now I have to make one!
That's a great question. Typically end-grain glue joints are not as strong as face grain or edge grain joints because of the way the fibers on the wood are oriented. This was one of the key reasons I made this board 1.5"+ thick to increase the glued surface area of the end grain joints. So far the board has held up well with no failures or signs of deformation or joint separation.
I was thinking the same thing. I think I would have added two 1/8”x1/2” splines around the entire board. One by the top and one by the bottom. I think that would be a pretty rad design feature as well.
Just a quick note. at 7:40 you say you're not going to take it back to jointer/planer for fear of the chevrons not matching up any more. If you joint them together at the same time it would remove the same amount of material off of each piece. That would leave the chevrons lining up after they were all done.
Hey Rob, I probably didn't do a great job of explaining myself on that. I was concerned about not jointing and planing each separate piece the same amount, which could throw off the pattern. I hope that helps clear things up.
Congratulations indeed ... a beautiful cut ... a very professional way of working ... a painstaking precision to say the least ... Really good ... 👏👏👏🎩🎩🎩
Hey Doug, The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
great job on that cutting board you got me in trouble now my wife wants one I know you gave a rough estimate of the measurements could you get a little more detail I appreciate it believe me I appreciate it
Sure thing. The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
I haven't tried the initial glue up with the lumber offset. I've only done them "square." Do you find you have less wasted wood using your method? Just curious, I'm gonna try that. Nice board BTW!
Just saw this, and think your hand placement when jointing could be better. Your hands and fingers, especially when pushing end of board through, are dangerously close to blades. Pushblocks and sticks are essential.
Thank you for mentioning this Charles. When I made that video I was still new to the hobby and didn't have a good appreciation for the safe operation of some of my equipment. If you see anything unsafe in my more recent videos please let me know.
Yes, that's correct. This is an edge grain board. I recently did this pattern, but made it an end grain board. You should check it out: ruclips.net/video/xQQiF0FkTh4/видео.html
@@412scott No, it wasn't quite that wide. It was closer to 16" once the final trimming was done. I would use some longer boards to give you more length in the final board.
@@EigenDesigns Thank you. I have one that is glued up in my clamps right now. It is 12x27" right now. I didn't stagger the wood like you did. I will have a lot of waste. I hope it will be around 18" after I put the 30 degree angle on it. I will start doing them like you did on this one. Saves a lot of waste. Thanks again!
Yes I did make this board to sell. The wood itself is worth about $125 in my area so I would normally sell a board like this for $200-$250. If you are able to customize the board with engravings or carvings then you can fetch an even higher price. I have seen customized cutting boards used by real estate agents as closing gifts for their clients so there is definitely a market out there.
Yes, that's correct. Typically end-grain glue joints are not as strong as face grain or edge grain joints because of the way the fibers on the wood are oriented. This was one of the key reasons I made this board 1.5"+ thick to increase the glued surface area of the end grain joints. So far the board has held up well with no failures or signs of deformation or joint separation.
@@EigenDesigns Not to be negative dude, but I see a big problem with this board. First, you are glueing end grain to end grain which is inherently weak and, because it's a cutting board it will get wet and then dry and then get wet again and dry again, etc. which would be hard on a proper glue joint, let alone one that is end grain to end grain. I don't see this thing lasting. I hope this is for personal use so you can monitor the life of the board. Good luck!
Notice how he’s using Titebond 3, not Titebond 1 or 2, not Gorilla Glue. Titebond 3. It’s waterproof, food safe and has a longer open time (time before it sets) than others because glue ups can be a pain in the ass at best and a nightmare at worst the more intricate your designs get.
Great Work!! But, I can offer but one criticism,, you should pay much more attention to personal safety. Those fingers that created such awesome work can disappear in a millisecond. And they don't grow back. i have been woodworking for 65 years and I can still count to ten on my fingers.
Looks good brother! 1st, get some better clamps. If you had gaps in other projects, your clamps are the culprit. Those squeeze clamps don’t provide anywhere near the pressure you need. Those harbor freight bar clamps aren’t much better. Also, instead of waiting for one side to dry then waiting for the other side to dry, use those long clamps as legs and stand it up against a wall somewhere and both sides will dry. BUILD A CROSSCUT SLED PLEASE!!! Running the short end along the fence to cut the length on a table saw the way you did is super dangerous! If you tweak it just a hair, you can get some nasty kickback. Not only will your board probably be ruined (or need serious repair), but you can get hurt...I’ve seen it happen more then once. Plus you’ll get a more square cut then using that janky miter gauge. Lastly, save your money and go to a pharmacy and get mineral oil. It’s the same exact thing for a bit less dough. The company you used does make a nice board conditioner though that has mineral oil and beeswax. Saturate with mineral oil, wipe off the excess, rub on the conditioner, let it dry a bit then buff it out. All in all...board looks great!!! Not trying to be a turd...just telling you things I wish someone told me when I started. Look forward to see what you do next!
All very solid advice. This was my first real youtube video that I made so you will see some of your suggestions put into practice in my more recent videos (e.g. parallel clamps, crosscut sled, etc.). I am going to look into the pharmacy mineral oil - I hadn't heard that one before. Thanks for the tips!
Not sure if I ever told you, but your mineral oil suggestion was awesome! I finish my boards at a fraction of the price now. Thanks so much for the tip.
I feel you, brother. I spent many years working off the tailgate of my pickup out of a garage (after backing my wife's car out). Shows you can still do impressive work with minimal tools and space. You don't need a 30 x 50 shop with $100,000 worth of tools to do some nice projects.
Coming from a cabinet/furniture builder. that somehow turned out pretty damn beautiful. I might’ve made 50-100 butcher blocks or cutting boards. End grain and side. Usually as a thank you for kitchen remod jobs or as Bday gifts or whatever. Honestly I figured out in 1 min this guy is not too familiar with saws and routers but I gotta say I’m pretty impressed with final product. Only made a handful of herringbone boards. Found out pretty quickly they fall apart after a year or 2 if folks don’t know how to take care. Any hoo, Good work. Turned out great.
I just completed this chevron board , it turned out really good, thanks for the video
Great to hear! Tag me on Instagram (if you have it) so I can see the final product. ☺️
Awesome! Making my first one right now. Thanks for sharing!
Good luck Shawn. I hope it turns out great.
You do excellent work. That is impresssive. I always tell myself that I (try to) do the best work that I can with the tools and work space I have, which currently is my front porch! Seems like you have a comparable situation. Thank you for clearly explaining all the steps that you go through. Wonderful piece of work!
Thanks for the kind words! 😄
Got to give you an extra credit for this beautiful work without having a workshop setup. Thumbs up for you. Regards from Brazil.👍
Beautiful
Thank you :)
Very nice. What length boards are you using? I’m guessing 18” and that determines the length of the edge grain board?
Good Video!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much for the support Jim ❤️❤️
I love it and now I’m going to make one. Thanks
That’s great! What wood do you plan to use?
Maple and padauk.
@@navarroedwards8031 padauk 🤤
The only change I would have made is which side was top and which the bottom. The grain pattern on the bottom of the board is amazing, while the top is just so-so - relatively speaking. The board itself is beautiful, and now I have to make one!
Flip it over :)
Beautiful piece but please buy some push pads for your planer so your fingers aren't exposed to the blades
Thanks for looking out Mark. Since making this video I invested in a pair of push pads to avoid having to run my fingers over the knives.
That made me anxious to watch lol
Muy bonito me podría decir cuanto mide de largo gracias
Wonderful
Buenas tardes cuanto miden de lango andes de pegarlos la primera ves y gracias buenas tardes
Espero al menos 2 horas para cada pegamento.
That looks amazing, but it is also a lot of end grain glue joints is it not? How has it held up?
That's a great question. Typically end-grain glue joints are not as strong as face grain or edge grain joints because of the way the fibers on the wood are oriented. This was one of the key reasons I made this board 1.5"+ thick to increase the glued surface area of the end grain joints. So far the board has held up well with no failures or signs of deformation or joint separation.
I was thinking the same thing. I think I would have added two 1/8”x1/2” splines around the entire board. One by the top and one by the bottom. I think that would be a pretty rad design feature as well.
Beautiful Piece, thanks for sharing. Full View and Like 👍
Thanks for the support Allen.
Just a quick note. at 7:40 you say you're not going to take it back to jointer/planer for fear of the chevrons not matching up any more. If you joint them together at the same time it would remove the same amount of material off of each piece. That would leave the chevrons lining up after they were all done.
Hey Rob, I probably didn't do a great job of explaining myself on that. I was concerned about not jointing and planing each separate piece the same amount, which could throw off the pattern. I hope that helps clear things up.
Thor's back and he's cooking healthy.
A great video. I just followed you and it came out wonderful. Thank you!
That's fantastic. Thank you for the support!
Congratulations indeed ... a beautiful cut ... a very professional way of working ... a painstaking precision to say the least ... Really good ... 👏👏👏🎩🎩🎩
Thanks for the support!
of nothing ... you deserve it all ... 👍👍👍😉😉😉
Well done, and a lovely piece.
999
8
8l
That is gorgeous. Good job
Thanks a bunch
You bet Doug :)
Trying to figure this board out,is it end grain or edge grain?
Hey Tom, this is an edge grain board. I made a similar board but with end grain that you can find here: ruclips.net/video/xQQiF0FkTh4/видео.html
the same thing now one more cut and connect and make end grain board. looks very good.
Thank you very much :)
Beautiful!!!
At the beginning of your build what was the dimensions of your strips
Hey Doug, The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
From one woodworker to another, thanks so much .I'm going to make one
@@dougbowman9651 you bet Doug! Good luck.
Nice
great job on that cutting board you got me in trouble now my wife wants one I know you gave a rough estimate of the measurements could you get a little more detail I appreciate it believe me I appreciate it
Sure thing. The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
Thank you so much for the quick reply and the information thank you very very much great job
good job, thanks!
You need to purchase a miter saw to eliminate a lot of your headache with the square cuts
great job...what are the widths of your boards
The length of each board I used is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 1/2” to 2”. The important dimensions is that the length and height are the same. You can get creative on how thick you want each board to be because this is what will create the pattern. I used 3/4” - 1” thickness for the maple strips and used 1/“2 up to 2” thick for the walnut.
I haven't tried the initial glue up with the lumber offset. I've only done them "square." Do you find you have less wasted wood using your method? Just curious, I'm gonna try that. Nice board BTW!
There is significantly less waste by doing it like this. The next time you make a chevron board you should give this method a shot.
Just saw this, and think your hand placement when jointing could be better. Your hands and fingers, especially when pushing end of board through, are dangerously close to blades. Pushblocks and sticks are essential.
Thank you for mentioning this Charles. When I made that video I was still new to the hobby and didn't have a good appreciation for the safe operation of some of my equipment. If you see anything unsafe in my more recent videos please let me know.
Freat design what size did you cut the peices lenght widgth
The length is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 3/4” to 2”.
Nice work. What was the final dimension of the board?
Hey Cam, It was around 15" x 18" x 1.75". I hope this helps.
Were those one inch thick strips?
They were closer to 1.5”, perhaps a bit less.
@@EigenDesigns sorry should have included this in the question. Were both the maple and walnut equal thickness?
So to my understanding this is not a end grain this is a edge grain cutting board?
Yes, that's correct. This is an edge grain board. I recently did this pattern, but made it an end grain board. You should check it out: ruclips.net/video/xQQiF0FkTh4/видео.html
What were the length of the pieces before cutting the angle?
Hey Scott, they were about 20"
@@EigenDesigns Thank you and the end length was 18"? I am trying to make a chevron board that is 12.5" x 18"
@@412scott No, it wasn't quite that wide. It was closer to 16" once the final trimming was done. I would use some longer boards to give you more length in the final board.
@@EigenDesigns Thank you. I have one that is glued up in my clamps right now. It is 12x27" right now. I didn't stagger the wood like you did. I will have a lot of waste. I hope it will be around 18" after I put the 30 degree angle on it. I will start doing them like you did on this one. Saves a lot of waste. Thanks again!
@@412scott Good luck! If you have an instagram be sure to tag me in it when you're done so I can see your great work.
Muy bieeen.! exelente trabajo. Saludos
I used the same wood and the same number of pieces and mine measures 13.5” -not 12.5”. Are your boards 3/4” ad 2” ?
The width of each of the boards varied from 3/4" all the way to 2". This range of widths may be why our dimensions didn't come out exactly the same.
Is that for resale? What's the typical price paid for a custom board like that?
Yes I did make this board to sell. The wood itself is worth about $125 in my area so I would normally sell a board like this for $200-$250. If you are able to customize the board with engravings or carvings then you can fetch an even higher price. I have seen customized cutting boards used by real estate agents as closing gifts for their clients so there is definitely a market out there.
Are you an engineer by any chance? You sound very detail oriented 🤔
Actually I am. Is it that obvious? I hope that is a good thing.
Aren't you glueing end grain to end grain on the second glue up?
Yes, that's correct. Typically end-grain glue joints are not as strong as face grain or edge grain joints because of the way the fibers on the wood are oriented. This was one of the key reasons I made this board 1.5"+ thick to increase the glued surface area of the end grain joints. So far the board has held up well with no failures or signs of deformation or joint separation.
@@EigenDesigns Not to be negative dude, but I see a big problem with this board. First, you are glueing end grain to end grain which is inherently weak and, because it's a cutting board it will get wet and then dry and then get wet again and dry again, etc. which would be hard on a proper glue joint, let alone one that is end grain to end grain. I don't see this thing lasting. I hope this is for personal use so you can monitor the life of the board. Good luck!
Get yourself some pushblocks for your jointer, I cringed when I saw how close your fingers came to the knives!!
Thanks for looking out. Since this video I have invested in a pair of pushblocks to prevent me from running my fingers over the knives.
Vc e um artista meu amigo parabéns 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
obrigada :):)
Notice how he’s using Titebond 3, not Titebond 1 or 2, not Gorilla Glue. Titebond 3. It’s waterproof, food safe and has a longer open time (time before it sets) than others because glue ups can be a pain in the ass at best and a nightmare at worst the more intricate your designs get.
Well said. Longer opening time can be really helpful.
Great Work!! But, I can offer but one criticism,, you should pay much more attention to personal safety. Those fingers that created such awesome work can disappear in a millisecond. And they don't grow back. i have been woodworking for 65 years and I can still count to ten on my fingers.
What are the final dimensions of the board?
@Dave Schramm the final dimensions were around 15" x 18" x 1.75"
@@EigenDesignsthx. Really nice board.
What are the dimensions of your lumber before your glue up?
The length is around 22”, the height is 1-3/4”, and the thickness of each board ranged from 3/4” to 2”.
@@EigenDesigns so what was the final dimensions of the finished product
@@nishithchristian5407 It was around 15" x 18" x 1.75"
Looks good brother! 1st, get some better clamps. If you had gaps in other projects, your clamps are the culprit. Those squeeze clamps don’t provide anywhere near the pressure you need. Those harbor freight bar clamps aren’t much better.
Also, instead of waiting for one side to dry then waiting for the other side to dry, use those long clamps as legs and stand it up against a wall somewhere and both sides will dry.
BUILD A CROSSCUT SLED PLEASE!!!
Running the short end along the fence to cut the length on a table saw the way you did is super dangerous! If you tweak it just a hair, you can get some nasty kickback. Not only will your board probably be ruined (or need serious repair), but you can get hurt...I’ve seen it happen more then once. Plus you’ll get a more square cut then using that janky miter gauge.
Lastly, save your money and go to a pharmacy and get mineral oil. It’s the same exact thing for a bit less dough. The company you used does make a nice board conditioner though that has mineral oil and beeswax.
Saturate with mineral oil, wipe off the excess, rub on the conditioner, let it dry a bit then buff it out.
All in all...board looks great!!!
Not trying to be a turd...just telling you things I wish someone told me when I started. Look forward to see what you do next!
All very solid advice. This was my first real youtube video that I made so you will see some of your suggestions put into practice in my more recent videos (e.g. parallel clamps, crosscut sled, etc.). I am going to look into the pharmacy mineral oil - I hadn't heard that one before. Thanks for the tips!
Not sure if I ever told you, but your mineral oil suggestion was awesome! I finish my boards at a fraction of the price now. Thanks so much for the tip.
I dont like how you use the planer.
OLA MUITO BOM MAIS UM INSCRITO JUAREZ R.G. do SUL BRASIL >OK
Incredible!!