Looks like it's time for me to pump my tank out and I plan on them putting on a riser as well. Thanks for the video as it was good timing and certainly taught me what I've got lying ahead of me. Great job, great video!
Thanks for the comment! Maybe consider installing the riser yourself to save a few bucks! Either way it will save you money in the long run and also make it easy to monitor the health of the tank.
Really it's not that stinky the solids sink to the bottom. Top is mostly effluent liquid. Sometimes there's some scum on top to deal with. A mask won't stop the smell.
Wow that's a huge opening. I would probably find a local precast supplier and see if they have something to go over the 40" hole to a smaller 20" diameter. Maybe call a local septic place and ask who their concrete tank supplier is. A 40" lid must be a bear to lift off.
Every Spring, any long rain brings the water table up to ground level and the tank overfills. I don't know why it took me so long to figure this out, but perhaps the round conical lid doesn't seal well! Thought my tanks were leaking, but I'll try this first. Thanks!
No problem this may be the issue. But also how flat is your lot where the field bed or lateral lines are installed? If ground water is coming up vey high it could be saturating the field bed and they are absorbing the water backing up to the tank. If your laterals are well below the tank elevation then this would not occur, but if it's a fairly flat and level lot and the ground water is that high, that's most likely the issue.
Can you screw a corrugated pipe riser to a PVC tank and use construction adhesive in the channel to glue the riser to the tank . Also using great stuff pond and brick to add to the water proofing over the roofing plastic cement?
Try to expose more of your tank and find a manufacturer. It might be infiltrator brand or Roth brand or norweco. Any plastic tank manufacturer will sell risers that screw into or snap into their tanks using some sort of proprietary interlock. That is what I would try to do. If you can't find that, then I don't know what to recommend. I guess I would try to shove a pipe in the opening then seal the annulus with roofing cement and flashing or basement waterproofing fabric and glue.
This one was already dug up. I can usually locate a tank looking for odd grass areas or if you know where the outlet is from the crawlspace you can usually follow the pipe then probe for it with a steel rod or soil probe. Otherwise plumbers can flush a transponder down the toilet then locate it in the tank if you really can't find it.
Great video. I want to do this to my 54 year old tank. Just had it pumped last year. Any ideas on a mound like you did or raise it even higher say 6 inches since we tend to get lots of water run off with heavy rains. Yes, rain water gets into tank only with a 2+ inch rain in say a few hours. Normal rain is fine. Very heavy rain usually two or three times a year fills up the tank. My septic guy feels that most of that water is getting in from the 54 year old concrete lid, loose ground since I get it pumped every 3 years. I like the corrugated tube. I looked at septic solutions for ideas too. I want an extra safety barrier and a extra heavy duty lid since we have kids, lots of deer, foxes, racoons, occasional bear.....treking into our yard. I was thinking if I chose not to do a mound like you did there I would cover the 6 inch pipe with a faux rock or similar landscape yard thing. Thanks,
Thanks for the information. Excellent video. Are the HDPE pipe risers less expensive than the incremental polyethylene risers? Any suggestions as to where HDPE pipe in short lengths can be purchased?
Thank for the comment! Being an excavating contractor I have a lot of leftover culvert pipes and stubs I can cut up. Without that you would be better off buying the incremental riser sections. If you want to try and find pipe yard to see if they'd have some cutoffs laying around. Otherwise if you know any contractors, excavation companies or large landscapers, they usually have pieces laying around in their yard.
I also cut these 24" pipes into 6" sections then put them around a new shrub or tree I plant. Stick them halfway in the ground. Makes it easy to mow and trim around. Then you only have to mulch or pull weeds within the circle.
Nice! Unfortunately our precast supplier doesn't make riser rings. Some of the precast drainage structure companies around do, but they are much larger inside diameter than needed and unable to be lifted by hand.
can you tap a new bathroom addition septic line to the riser instead of digging another 8 feet down to connect to original line that taps directly into the septic rank?
Hey Yoncey, sorry for the delay. I'm sure you could do what you're asking and it would probably work, but it would definitely be against code in Kentucky. You may try finding the line closer to the house instead of the tank and maybe you can find the line shallower than 8'.
Hey Warren! to secure the flange to top of the concrete tank i used tapcon anchors. I am not too concerned about them rusting or corroding away. Really the butyl rope is doing all the sealing. The screws help compress it. Once the weight of soil is over the pipe and flange, it really cant lift to unseal. The tapcons are coated with some type of blue paint, i bet they last a long time.
I've been doing this for 6 years now. Some Facebook, word of mouth, etc. I got licensed to do septics last year so I've been trying to do more of that. I also jointed the home builders association to try to work more with builders and contractors on their projects.
This tank had a large 2'x2' square opening. So the adapter flange that mounted to the tank lid had to cover that opening. That flange utilized a 24" riser. Either size is fine for pumping maintenance. But I prefer the larger diameter because if you have to install a new baffle or do any other repair or inspection, larger is better.
@@paulosekowsky7922 the cover I used will work for an opening that size. So you could do exactly what I did in this video. www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/septic-tank-risers/corrugated-pipe-products/3009-arc_polylok-24-corrugated-pipe-tank-adapter-ring
I wonder why you didn't do both sides of the tank. The folks that recently pumped mine (first time in 28 years) said both sides needs to be pumped every time.
@@f150bft depends how large your tank is and whether it's a standard single compartment tank or whether it has multiple sections and baffles or a separate pump side. For standard tanks our code requires the riser at the outlet side only.
Thanks for the good question though! As far as pumping and cleaning a tank it would be easier if both were accessible. But it's not a necessity in a single compartment.
Haha yea, but I will say the supply house has been good and when you call a real person answers the phone! Yes tanks generally have two lids, sometimes 3. But the most accessed lid is at the outlet so you can inspect and clean the outlet filter or baffle. That's usually where pumpers go to pump. Kentuckys code only requires access to the outlet lid.
No this was not a kit due to the large square opening. There are kits for circle openings and smaller square or rectangle openings. All the parts and pieces I used are in the video description so check them out!
@@NealORussa thank you, it looks like you did a real good job. I have concerns about the ground water leaking into the septic tank as well. I almost think it be a better idea to leave the original lid in place if they can just pull it off but maybe they need to use a crowbar, etc. to get them loose. Anyway, I am having some installed and I wanna make sure we seal it as best we can.
@@rubyrun54 you can definitely leave the original lid in place inside the riser if your riser opening is large enough. If it is a concrete tank usually the lids don't fit that tight at first. The weight of soil on top of the lid pushed it down harder into the tank opening and soil particles get stuck in the cracks and crevices that starts creating a seal then eventually over a year or two they usually seal off. I think if you use a plastic or hdpe riser and use good butyl rope sealant around the base you should be good to go!
The cover is fairly strong but definitely shouldn't be driven over! I guess you could paint it bright yellow if you wanted it to stand out. Most caps are green or black though.
I ordered 2 riser kits and will be installing them once they arrive. Thanks for the tips!
No problem, good luck with the install and it will be nice and easy to service in the future!
Looks like it's time for me to pump my tank out and I plan on them putting on a riser as well. Thanks for the video as it was good timing and certainly taught me what I've got lying ahead of me. Great job, great video!
Thanks for the comment! Maybe consider installing the riser yourself to save a few bucks! Either way it will save you money in the long run and also make it easy to monitor the health of the tank.
Awesome job ! I can tell you take a lot of pride in your work ! Very neat and clean!
Thank you! I try to treat each job as if it were my own back yard
Just in time what I needed.
Thanks and God bless.
A very well explained video highly recommends this video
Thanks so much for watching and the comment! Hope you can subscribe!
Can't you place an apparatus on for breathing?
There is NO WAY I could handle that. But so thankful people like yourself do‼️
Really it's not that stinky the solids sink to the bottom. Top is mostly effluent liquid. Sometimes there's some scum on top to deal with. A mask won't stop the smell.
Excellent video‼️ This is my challenge now.
You can do it!
Thanks. I have a 40-inch diameter concrete lid that chipped. Where can I get hardware for that size opening?
Wow that's a huge opening. I would probably find a local precast supplier and see if they have something to go over the 40" hole to a smaller 20" diameter. Maybe call a local septic place and ask who their concrete tank supplier is. A 40" lid must be a bear to lift off.
Every Spring, any long rain brings the water table up to ground level and the tank overfills. I don't know why it took me so long to figure this out, but perhaps the round conical lid doesn't seal well! Thought my tanks were leaking, but I'll try this first. Thanks!
No problem this may be the issue. But also how flat is your lot where the field bed or lateral lines are installed?
If ground water is coming up vey high it could be saturating the field bed and they are absorbing the water backing up to the tank.
If your laterals are well below the tank elevation then this would not occur, but if it's a fairly flat and level lot and the ground water is that high, that's most likely the issue.
Can you screw a corrugated pipe riser to a PVC tank and use construction adhesive in the channel to glue the riser to the tank . Also using great stuff pond and brick to add to the water proofing over the roofing plastic cement?
Try to expose more of your tank and find a manufacturer. It might be infiltrator brand or Roth brand or norweco. Any plastic tank manufacturer will sell risers that screw into or snap into their tanks using some sort of proprietary interlock. That is what I would try to do. If you can't find that, then I don't know what to recommend. I guess I would try to shove a pipe in the opening then seal the annulus with roofing cement and flashing or basement waterproofing fabric and glue.
HOW DID YOU FIND THE COVER in the first place please ⁉️⁉️
This one was already dug up. I can usually locate a tank looking for odd grass areas or if you know where the outlet is from the crawlspace you can usually follow the pipe then probe for it with a steel rod or soil probe. Otherwise plumbers can flush a transponder down the toilet then locate it in the tank if you really can't find it.
I have the same issue with a rectangle lid could you let me know where and what parts you bought where you got that adaptor plate and riser please
The links are in the description for the materials I used. Thanks for watching!
How many of those screws have you swolled
Haha if you're referring to me putting the screws in my mouth the answer is almost 1 haha
great video. Thank you.
@@centereachwrestling thanks for the comment!
I'm glad I'm hook to city sewer
Haha probably not a bad thing for most homeowners. What monthly fee do you pay for sewer?
nope! Rats or snakes can traverse up the bung hole ......BWAHAHAHAHA
For sure
Great video. I want to do this to my 54 year old tank.
Just had it pumped last year.
Any ideas on a mound like you did or raise it even higher say 6 inches since we tend to get lots of water run off with heavy rains. Yes, rain water gets into tank only with a 2+ inch rain in say a few hours. Normal rain is fine. Very heavy rain usually two or three times a year fills up the tank.
My septic guy feels that most of that water is getting in from the 54 year old concrete lid, loose ground since I get it pumped every 3 years.
I like the corrugated tube. I looked at septic solutions for ideas too. I want an extra safety barrier and a extra heavy duty lid since we have kids, lots of deer, foxes, racoons, occasional bear.....treking into our yard.
I was thinking if I chose not to do a mound like you did there I would cover the 6 inch pipe with a faux rock or similar landscape yard thing.
Thanks,
Nvm I found them in the description. Thank you
Great glad you found them and can get the job done!
Thanks for the information. Excellent video.
Are the HDPE pipe risers less expensive than the incremental polyethylene risers?
Any suggestions as to where HDPE pipe in short lengths can be purchased?
Thank for the comment! Being an excavating contractor I have a lot of leftover culvert pipes and stubs I can cut up. Without that you would be better off buying the incremental riser sections.
If you want to try and find pipe yard to see if they'd have some cutoffs laying around. Otherwise if you know any contractors, excavation companies or large landscapers, they usually have pieces laying around in their yard.
I also cut these 24" pipes into 6" sections then put them around a new shrub or tree I plant. Stick them halfway in the ground. Makes it easy to mow and trim around. Then you only have to mulch or pull weeds within the circle.
I just installed concrete ones on mine and it took me like 5 minutes.
Nice! Unfortunately our precast supplier doesn't make riser rings. Some of the precast drainage structure companies around do, but they are much larger inside diameter than needed and unable to be lifted by hand.
can you tap a new bathroom addition septic line to the riser instead of digging another 8 feet down to connect to original line that taps directly into the septic rank?
Hey Yoncey, sorry for the delay. I'm sure you could do what you're asking and it would probably work, but it would definitely be against code in Kentucky.
You may try finding the line closer to the house instead of the tank and maybe you can find the line shallower than 8'.
What kind of screws did you use? I would be concerned about them corroding or rusting underground compromising the seal.
Hey Warren! to secure the flange to top of the concrete tank i used tapcon anchors. I am not too concerned about them rusting or corroding away. Really the butyl rope is doing all the sealing. The screws help compress it. Once the weight of soil is over the pipe and flange, it really cant lift to unseal. The tapcons are coated with some type of blue paint, i bet they last a long time.
How do you get jobs like this? I like the variety of the work you do.
I've been doing this for 6 years now. Some Facebook, word of mouth, etc. I got licensed to do septics last year so I've been trying to do more of that. I also jointed the home builders association to try to work more with builders and contractors on their projects.
@@NealORussa Thanks for responding
Just one question, why did you use 24" opposed to using 18"? Not sure why both diameters are used?
This tank had a large 2'x2' square opening. So the adapter flange that mounted to the tank lid had to cover that opening. That flange utilized a 24" riser.
Either size is fine for pumping maintenance. But I prefer the larger diameter because if you have to install a new baffle or do any other repair or inspection, larger is better.
How do you put one in with a cement tank cover that 24”-26”
Is it a round opening or square?
@@NealORussa rectangle 24 -26”
@@paulosekowsky7922 the cover I used will work for an opening that size. So you could do exactly what I did in this video.
www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/septic-tank-risers/corrugated-pipe-products/3009-arc_polylok-24-corrugated-pipe-tank-adapter-ring
I wonder why you didn't do both sides of the tank. The folks that recently pumped mine (first time in 28 years) said both sides needs to be pumped every time.
@@f150bft depends how large your tank is and whether it's a standard single compartment tank or whether it has multiple sections and baffles or a separate pump side.
For standard tanks our code requires the riser at the outlet side only.
Thanks for the good question though! As far as pumping and cleaning a tank it would be easier if both were accessible. But it's not a necessity in a single compartment.
@NealORussa I didn't realize they came with only one compartment... That makes sense.
I love how the box has real people on it😂😂😂 4:34 should the tank have two lids
Haha yea, but I will say the supply house has been good and when you call a real person answers the phone!
Yes tanks generally have two lids, sometimes 3. But the most accessed lid is at the outlet so you can inspect and clean the outlet filter or baffle. That's usually where pumpers go to pump. Kentuckys code only requires access to the outlet lid.
Was this a kit that you could buy or did you buy all the pieces and then construct it yourself?
No this was not a kit due to the large square opening. There are kits for circle openings and smaller square or rectangle openings. All the parts and pieces I used are in the video description so check them out!
@@NealORussa thank you, it looks like you did a real good job. I have concerns about the ground water leaking into the septic tank as well. I almost think it be a better idea to leave the original lid in place if they can just pull it off but maybe they need to use a crowbar, etc. to get them loose. Anyway, I am having some installed and I wanna make sure we seal it as best we can.
@@rubyrun54 you can definitely leave the original lid in place inside the riser if your riser opening is large enough. If it is a concrete tank usually the lids don't fit that tight at first. The weight of soil on top of the lid pushed it down harder into the tank opening and soil particles get stuck in the cracks and crevices that starts creating a seal then eventually over a year or two they usually seal off. I think if you use a plastic or hdpe riser and use good butyl rope sealant around the base you should be good to go!
That's horrible why is it so high
Not sure what you mean? The tank is about 30" under ground, so this riser allows access to the tank.
Good Job! I be afraid that someone will Drive over it......
The cover is fairly strong but definitely shouldn't be driven over! I guess you could paint it bright yellow if you wanted it to stand out. Most caps are green or black though.