Fine Paints Of Europe Hollandlac Brilliant Application Failure (operator error)
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2019
- Everyone posts wins, here is a failure on my part. Have a lot more learning to do.
Here are some links to Master Craftspeople’s pages
Shearer Painting
• Cabinet Painting Fine ...
Shoreline Painting
• Cabinet painting Fine ...
Painted By Kayla Payne
www.paintedbykaylapayne.com/
NYC Fine Finishes
www.nycfinefinishes.com/
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Hey Michael, as a beginner in finishing can't thank you enough for all tips in getting started. Watched all your videos more then once . Your 6 part video on finishing kitchen cabinets is a must for beginners! Never heard of this finish but is very interesting. Never give up! Look forward in seeing your progression with product. Please keep us informed
Mike Smith really glad to hear the videos were helpful.
This finish when properly applied is jaw dropping, I really do believe it’s the finest finish I’ve ever seen. I’m gonna keep at it and keep posting videos
Thank you for posting this. And yes, I agree that kitchen looks drop dead gorgeous.
Saluki Jean check out the link in the description. They did a few colors and it’s amazing
Micheal I think you have three problems. It could be one or any combination. So you might want to try them one at a time. First, don't think thin product. The label says no thinning is necessary. Number 2 change you needle to a 1.3 and get rid of the 1.8 if you are using it. Number three get rid of the turbine and hook up to a compressor so that you can get more air volume. Not saying this will work but I think it is worth a try.
agree in those, I also saw a video of a lady using this paint, she will sand for hours, and re sand after each coat of paint, usualy two or 3 coats
Yep, watch Kayla Payne’s videos.
Dust extraction/ get the dust out. Fine paints drives this point home in every piece of instruction they have, NO DUST!!!. You can spray with HVLP- but you need to get dust out.
Also!!!!--- This the first steps are oil, different bird. I have a dedicated Sata gun dedicated to oil,
But one might try turning up air on your apollo. 125cfm would prob do it. We are too aggresive, when we might do 2 coats, 5 thin coats are needed for the build and finish
I remember the guy who taught me that you can't have any dust when doing high gloss. Vacuum/ wipe(then it was napth)/ vacuum / wipe. He would say- "Did you clean it?" i would say "yes", then he would say , "Clean it again. "
Every professional painting video online for Fine Paints of Europe shows them thinning it down. Everyone says the key is thin layers. Not thick layers.
You’ll get there. I love your spirit and tenacity.
Thanks for the video. It looks like you are getting better with it. Keep at it man.
Eric Reason looks like aaa is the way to go but I will keep playing with it
Thanks so much for sharing what is perfection!
Thanks for being honest Michael. A lot of us don't have a shop to try things out and have to rely on RUclipsrs to show us the way. Is there a big market out there for such a finish? I'm sure John Shearer got a lot of secondary business out of doing that one kitchen using FPOE. I remember when he shared it on Paint Talk.
I'm guessing that a sprayer like a Kremlin Airmix would perform better than your Apollo HVLP for that coating. Good air circulation without the dust is important too.
Ted Rinshed thanks man. I’m guessing the same thing when it comes to the pump
How do Sr. Denoff FFLP 310 airless tips compare to Graco FFLP 310 airless tips? Is there any difference?
Thank you for making this video. How did it all turn out?
My painter feels you and relates with your results. Bubbles and orange peel, it has taken him months, redoing 2 doors and a china cabinet.
can this be brushed and rolled with a 4 inch roller? just started to learn about this paint and im curious to invest my time in it.
But what do you think was the cause? You seemed to have taken your time and followed every direction what did it?
hello how do you thinn the paint ti apply?
Hey Michael did you got down spraying hollandlac ? Even brushing it it’s hard I m still working on it
was that finish with the new apollo kit you got? was it 2k paint,, polish it
first, i'd like to say, if your pieces were in a furnished room, people would be staring at themselves in the reflection and not at the dimples in your drawers. secondly, i've been reading on this a lot lately and the manufacturer def recommends doing this the old fashioned, labor intensive way. a lot of sanding, waiting, brush painting, and doing it again, and again, and again...
Did you get it to lay out well yet?
Just wondering if you've had more success with the fine paints? I just tried spraying it for the first time. Thinned down 20% ans it's certainly tricky to use.
Michael...My one experience with Hollandlac Brilliant, the first coat looked fantastic, sprayed with a Graco AAA. But on the second coat I experienced solvent pop all over the place. I called in an auto paint guy to trouble shoot. He suggested more thinning should solve problem. We thinned with an automative grade thinner to 30% and still experienced solvent pop. At that point I gave up on the idea of spraying and just sanded the door down and brushed on a couple coats, no solvent pop, and the door came out beautiful. I heard Adam Fox say he too had a problem with solvent pop on his 2nd coat and discovered it was due to recoating too soon.
Mike Richter yep a couple of the tries were coating too quickly. I did get great results with a brush 😂 of course I wanted to spray it
@@MichaelCraine ... What material and process did you use to build your foundation for high gloss? I nixed the swedish putty because I found it a bitch to sand. So I built my foundation with Enduro undercoater:1) spray 1st undercoat 2)Sand 3) Spray 5 coats of undercoat, to create a hi-build 4)Sand the undercoat up to 600 grit til the surface was porcelain smooth. I hung the door from the ceiling. So there was no chance of dust drifting onto the freshly sprayed finish. All looked fantastic after the 1st coat of Brilliant.
Are you sanding between coats?
Did you ever get to the bottom of your problem and did you get perfection if so what was the problem 👍
How much do I charge per sqft in NYC. Complete walls, and ceiling. HOLLANDLAC BLACK
If you are able to add Butyl Cellosolve to the product it should help with the solvent pop and orange peel. I'm not sure if you have tried it or not but around 2-3% can make a huge difference with some stubborn coatings.
Samuel Mitchell butyl cellulose work with oil based?
@@MichaelCraine It's a fairly universal solvent. I have seen it being used in Lacquers to slow the drying time and reduce the solvent pop. I have also seen it used in waterbased coatings to reduce solvent pop and microfoaming. So I'd say it would more than likely work but definitely try a small test before committing to it.
Samuel Mitchell thanks for the clarification! I’ve seen it used in WB products but hadn’t heard about using it with oil (which I know just about nothing about)
Thanks for keeping it real!
Sata K3 RP OR K3000 RP pressure feed gun with a 1.5 nozzle. It’s a beast and will atomize heaver viscosity enamels very well. Problem is it requires a fairly large air compressor to operate @ 15.2 cfm. Its not a real option for a job site, but in a shop setting it’s very good.
Do you think it could be dust? Apart from the orange peel of course, FPoE is usually done with very tight dust control, air scrubbers, large pans of water, small booth, tyvex suits, right?
Dan Piekarek nope I put up a clean room with multiple filters and vents going. Just have to figure out the thinning ratio and more than likely I probably don’t have the right setup to atomize the product without over thinning. Either way I’m gonna keep at it till I get it right
Michael Craine would you let us know what works out for you? Ratio/equipment? Thanks!
What equipment did you use?
Hey I just started using that same product on a table top and I’m getting similar results. Tried thinning and used a product called flood. Any luck on fixing the solvent pops or the unsatisfactory reflection ?
You need to slow down they drying. You need a retarder.
this video hurts my soul. same page buddy, same page.
Great Video!
I’ve done some research on the product and follow the same people you mention. I’m no expert with the product, but from what I’ve heard dust extraction is extremely important with that product.
Ever get any update on that god forsaken solvent pop so many are plagued with?
Man it’s actually not that bad. It’s not perfect but it’s not as bad as I was thinking. Curious about what caused the solvent pop
I’m so excited to fail right now LOL A+
Everyone should have that attitude
Thank you!! I’m really glad I found your stuff because I am *not* a painter and I’m about to fail a whole bunch!
Not allowing enough cure time between coats will cause pops
it's been a long time, you learned how to do it perfectly?
This reminds me just like painting a car - multiple wipe downs / fish eyes and what not - seems like a cool ass product but oil would be a whole lot easier without the fish eye and orange peel to deal with
So did you ever get this beauty figured out? :)
Got sidetracked for a year 😅
Love this. Thank you.
Its in the Paint itself...No cone strainer can help it..There is no way around it
A trick I've learned is to brush on the first coat, sand with 220-400 depending on wet/dry application keeping the paper clean. Brush the second coat on, sand again. Then spray with a bit of smoothie fisheye eliminator. It's more time consuming but it works.
How much money is too much money to have to shell out buying a product that takes so long to learn to use? I would like to think if you are buying the festool of paints it wouldn't be pulling teeth for pro grade painters to get a handle on in a few passes.
Particularly with the not so large customer base willing to pay for it.. Im using one of their brush on door systems tomorrow as a little attempt. I primed it today. The door is chewed up in an old Pennsylvania neighborhood so even a miserable failure will look good. That said. I would like it to look good. The primer/undercoater was really nice. I haven't used a undercoater that nice for God knows how long. I have some left over and am gonna use it on some other items around the job.
Good luck in your quest. I like the looks of what I see in pictures and videos but, the cost of learning how to get things to look like that doesn't appear to be worth it.
I’m pretty young and had a bit of alternative way of learning things. I didn’t grow up using oil based products, for a seasoned veteran, I can’t imagine it would be too troublesome . I did get it about 98% perfection in the end. Realistically, it was just a goal of mine. I also know that damn near everything you see on the internet is people winning, but that’s not the case, most people never post their failures.
@@MichaelCraine
Got ya.
As far as what people post. One mans winning is another mans embarrassment and vice versa.. I've been using oil for 38 years so I would like to think I can get a battered door looking better. My goal with this is not a glass smooth door but, to get the finish itself uniform, shiney and loud. I bought the door kit. I stopped using china bristle brushes ove 20 years ago because I never saw the results to back the hype. That's what came with the kit.
I am using the brush they send to see the project through. It is hellastiff and has almost no corners (like something I would wear out on a deck)..
I can't imagine a homeowner getting good results with it but, ya never know. The lack of videos of people using this stuff is a disappointment. Not that Im gonna post a step by step but either way I will try to document a bit.
I'll post failure or not. Unfortunately it will be on this channel since I no longer remember the login info for my work channel.🤦♂️
@UCtcwKa68AX0qmA3FRcZ-CTQ
A quick update on my door.
I painted it not long after my initial comment on your video here.
I did not thin the paint (against my own instincts). Trying to folliw their rules.
I did use the brush they sent. In my opinion it is a piece of _____. Its too stiff and has rounded corners. It was a pain in the ass to cut the hinges and glass. Looked like a worn dust brush too me.
I 1st coated it and it took forever to be able to second coat.
I second coated it and even put a small space heater near it due to humidity and it took forever to be dry to the touch. I did have a bad area of runs in one panel. They still are wet to this day and can not be dealt with (i will probably scrape them off and wipe with thinner so maybe it will dry). There is still wet paint under the skin. You can feel it.
The finish is still soft like you could scrape it off with your fingernail if you gave a smidge of effort.
It will also need a third coat as the corner coverage in the panels was weak even though I used their primer/undercoater which I feel is an excellent product. That is something I haven't seen in a long time. Thick undercoater
At a glance/drive by the door looks glossy and pops big time. Van Gogh yellow. I had no problem with uniformity or drag issues due to my approach.
I dont know when I will ever be able to weather strip the jamb. Its way too soft still and it gets afternoon sun big time..
When I do 3rd coat it I am going to put naptha in it. I have no choice. I need this to dry.
I cant imagine the problems a homeowner would have with this stuff.
Anyway. There is an update.. not a total fail not a total success..
I will post back when I get to finishing it up. I've got a ton of carpentry to do though in the entry where the door is first.
@@williamsmith9026 how's your door holding up?
@SMBC09
The paint itself is still blazing yellow. Gloss seems high still. It gets a pretty good beating in the sun starting around 11 am.
The indoor one I did in my place still looks good. Well the finish does. I effed up the initial priming by being distracted so you can see some unpleasantness under it.
Overall since I stopped using their recommended brush and thinner and did what my 40 years experience with oil told me to do things are far better.
They set you up for failure with that jive ass kit!
bro get the creams and a buffer ,,,,,car cut buffing
Martin Kaz any brand suggestions?
@@MichaelCraine compete compound
1st sand with 1000 then 2000 wet
Im so glad I found this post…I’m about ready to hang up my brush for good on this FPE Brilliant product! I’ve worked on this first project for 6 months now and I’ve invested SO much time and money in this piece…I will not settle for less than perfection but I’m beginning to rethink the toll its taking. Such a steep learning curve, but such a gorgeous product that I’m determined to learn this!! But please, can someone please tell me how to avoid or resolve solvent pops???
Crap product has never seen Holland . You can get the same results with coach paint and brush finish...
Lol that level of gloss belongs only on a lambo
Rick Bailey 😂 i want to do a Lamborghini house eventually though
@@MichaelCraine one day