I know I'm repetitive, but I want to also comment for the algorithm. I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel. Anybody that will stumble upon it is very lucky. Thank you.
In the days of most people just stealing from each other, it's refreshing to find someone who's still giving away such a plethora of knowledge. I'm truly thankful. May your material reach a larger audience, and your revenues be worth doing these excellent videos! 🙏
Hey Dude, I really like the way you present information. You have a charming, easy going and comprehensive delivery. I also admire how much research you do and how in depth you give your information is such a clear manner. Rock on and thank you for making this content!
Moser, your channel is gonna kill it! Extremely well done and comprehensive videos. Watch that Will Prowse video where he talks about his affiliates programs, channel, and books revenue. Your potential is huge.. Also, set up a Patreon and that Amazon click through kickback thing. And where the heck is your website..?
Great information. This was just what I needed. I love all your videos. You should start a roving van buildout business. Where you travel around and help people with their builds all over the country. I'm in Texas.😎
So impressed with the time you take to analyze all the planning process and costs of the build out. You are the first RUclipsr I support through PayPal (and I watch the ads all the way to the end to help you keep making videos.). Keep the videos coming! Thanks.
What a wealth of information! I was pretty lost before watching this video. I think I have a handle of things now. Thank you so much for doing all this research and then sharing your findings!
Very clear and well presented. A couple of points that made me ask wth? VOC's from fibreglas? I imagine this is referring to building a fibreglas shell with epoxy and the VOC's that result during curing. All loose insulation and some rigid foam (open cell like polystyrene) will allow moisture to pass thru to the cold metal surface and produce condensation. You need a vapor barrier with acoustic sealant at edges and seams to prevent moisture buildup and loss of insulation value and worse mold or rot. Finally, some rigid foam has a shiny polymer on one side. The air gap must be on the shiny side and that must be facing the heat source that you want to reflect. So if you want to retain heat in cold weather you want the shiny side inward with the air gap on the inside of the reflective material. This setup will not reflect heat away from the vehicle in the summer. To reject heat you would need the air gap between the sheet metal and the reflective material and then the insulation inside that. Heat transfer is very complex and you did a great job with a lot of information.
One additional consideration regarding spray foam - be aware that many/most body shops will refuse to work on any area that has spray foam behind/near it.
the complexity in just insulating that the weird geometry of vans entail, i'm begining to the even more that the way to go is a box that you build out, and then attach onto a cutaway cargo van. Then maybe cut out a hole so that you can walk directly into the driver's seat. And also add some aerodynamic plastic fenders so that the oncoming air goes around the van more smoothly instead of a flat face of the box.
I'm insulating my van now. Your video was EXCELLENT. Thank you. I'm wanting to use spray foam in parts of my van I can't reach with the rigid stuff. Would spray foam make my van rust? Hope you can reply.
Hey Sam, what kind of insulation did you use for those deep places near the wheel wells of your Transit van? I have a Transit van but am camping at a campground on Mcchord AFB in the cold and I use an electric heater to keep warm but condensation is building up real bad on the wheel wells and in those deep cut outs. Thanks! Happy Holidays 🎄.
Im trying to figure out what insulation would be best for irish weather (winter) loads of different info but this is helping break it dowm. Still cant decide tho 😅
Thank you for another great video! I did not know that polyiso loses R-value in the cold. I am liking wool for my next build. I heard hemp is gaining popularity but haven't researched it. I am unsure on spray foam having heard batt insulation like wool and Thinsulate manage moisture better. Anyway, video is much appreciated.
VERY good video, thanks for taking the educational classroom approach. I don’t need to know what’s going on in your personal life when I am researching insulation. I am just starting to build my 2nd van, and this subject has gotten more brain processing time that most other up-fitting issues. I am beginning to believe most of us are killing a fly with a sledgehammer. Let’s face the fact that you are working inside a tin can. The structure of this tin can includes many, many hollow spaces that are difficult, or impossible to insulate effectively. You can fight this battle with 3 weapons; insulation materials, good heaters and good ventilation. The heaters and the ventilation are easier ways to effect the entire living area of your van/RV. Insulation is much more difficult to do this with. Steel is a great conductor and every surface that touches it moves heat into or out of you van. Forget a radiant barrier, you will have near zero effect on the comfort inside your van for your effort. If you insist on the comforts of a stick build home, stay home. If you want to live in a van in the outdoors, get a good heater, and season appropriate clothing!
Great video - very informative. I've seen some folks advocating covering all exposed interior metal surfaces with neoprene to combat condensation. Any thoughts on that? Seems like that might be better at absorbing moisture than combatting it.
Hi Moser! Im thinking about insulating my van with 20mm Kaiflex but I'm not sure if I'd need an aluminium layer too... what do you think about it? do you think Kaiflex (or Armaflex) is a good choice? Congrats again for your work and channel and thank you. Greetings from Spain!
I’d like to know about vapor barriers. Will a vapor barrier keep moisture out of insulation? What options are there for vapor barrier material? Is a vapor barrier compromised when screwed through to attach a plywood wall for example? I just watched another van insulation video, where foam board was used on the floor and ceiling and then mineral wool in the walls and crevices. The argument was made that the vapor barrier was critical to seal the insulation in so that moisture from within the van could not reach the insulation. So reflectix was used as a vapor barrier material and was completely taped in place with aluminum tape. Then plywood walls were attached to that.
@@MoserMakes You raise a good point about the metal being a vapor barrier and so moisture will be trapped between the exterior metal and the interior vapor barrier. However, most automotive construction has vent holes and drain holes between the inner (structural) and outer body panels to deal with condensation and leaks around windows etc. It is important when installing insulation that you do not block this ventilation by stuffing all of the supports with wool or spray foam. If you take factory panels off of doors you will see under the upholstered panel a vapor barrier with a sealant applied between the metal inner panel and the vapor barrier. This barrier is to prevent warm moist air from hitting the cold exterior metal other door components. I hope this helps.
Moser Makes There are many videos on van insulation, yet not a lot of agreement on materials or methods, but I feel your two videos here on insulation and vapor barriers clear up all the confusion so that I can proceed with a solid plan for my next van build, somewhere in the next 6 to 8 months. Five years ago I bought a Chevy Express 3500 and built it into a work van and full-time home. I love this lifestyle, I have never been happier, and I’m ready to repeat the process with a high roof van this time. But I want to build it better, especially the insulation and the electrical and the plumbing. My goal is to have all those decisions made before I buy the van, so that the build can happen rather quickly without delays to research how to do each phase of the build. Rest assured your videos and comments here are extremely helpful, and I greatly appreciate the clarity, conciseness, time and effort you’ve put into everything.
@@MoserMakes Thank you for your thoughts. I think we can agree that it is complicated and that the last thing you want is moisture in insulation with nowhere to go. A civil engineering prof (John Timusk) from the University of Toronto came up with a house that had dynamic walls he drilled holes in walls between the studs that allow air to flow (slowly) and either cool or warm as it moves from inside to outside. I think that some variation of this might be the solution for van insulation perhaps one or 2 laptop fans on either side.
For non-Americans: this video describes R-values in [ft²·°F·h/BTU]. Most other countries will use an R-value that's also known as the Rd-value, which is specified in [m²⋅K/W]. It is a factor 5.678 lower than the American R-value. Hope this helps, it took me a while before I figured out why the values in this video were so high xD
What if you used the highest R value per thickness material, and then coated it in some sort of sealer prevent moisture from degrading the material as well as to trap the harmful particles and fumes from getting into the air? And if the sealer is a thermal bridge, just wrap the sealed rigid foam board with wool to mitigate some of the thermal bridging, effectively turning a parallel thermal circuit back into a series one.
One upconversion company's experience on RUclips said they have tried different types and methods of spray foam with panel warpage from the exothermic hardening process of the foam. It would be interesting to hear if DIYers have had the same experience?
I'd be really interested to have the fire risk/retardant values in these also! Is thinsulate more fire retardant than wool? That would be the only thing making thinsulate the better option
What are VOCs? "Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are organic compounds that easily become vapors or gases. Many VOCs are hazardous air pollutants." (I had to look it up. 😃)
ps: I was a bit confused when you mentioned at the end the sound-deadning isolation without mentioning more Don't you use Thinsulate for that ? Thanks !
How do you fix Thinsulate to the walls and ceiling of the van? If you do it with glue is there a good glue that doesn’t have off gassing problems? Are there other clever ways of fixing it to the wall? Also if the insulation isn’t covered with wall paneling of some kind will it’s insulation properties suffer much?
The big thing here is not to compress the batts. They will loose r value if you do this. Best to measure your depth then adjust your thickness accordingly. You can peel layers off the batts to adjust for depth variations. Again, don't compress & you'll b fine.
The simple answer is : insulating a van is expensive if done correctly. Most people use cheaper products to cut the cost. Use what the companies who make camper vans use and do it once.
After 4 years, covid and camperization business growth... is there some improvement? Some new material? After all your experience, what could be the best combination between cost/insulation and health care of the insulation materials? Thanks
@@MoserMakes i don't want to say you made advice for them... My intentions was to say: thanks, i've read Always a lot but there was Paid review, so hearing from you that Is a really good solution Makes me think It Is true and that deserve a try. Sorry if due To my bad english i wrote a rude thing :(
Great video. Just can't get use to understand R value, instead of U value (which is regardless of thickness of material). R value is a misleading&confusing American term. Anyway I'll check your other videos, it should be informative.
Insulation is just one of several layers to use in Automotive applications. You can use any type you like. You apply it wrong. You're wasting your money and time... And yes I tried most of them. Only one way works to stop heat\cold transferring to the inside\outside of the Vehicle. So if you want true four season insulation properties. Learn how to use and install the stuff...
@@TheAllang123 I prefer 3M SM400L..Placed against the bare walls first. Then Radiant Barrier RadiantGUARD XTREME Attic Insulation 1000 sq ft on the outside of that..Making sure you cover all exposed metal surfaces. The roof is a big one. Windows are a heat sink. You can use tint that is applied to the outside. The same stuff they use on Car wraps.. And you don't have to use lots of spray glue. You just want it to stay put. Till you foil wrap over it. Then install your paneling. As the Spray glue will turn to dust any ways. How much you need depends on you.
I know I'm repetitive, but I want to also comment for the algorithm. I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel. Anybody that will stumble upon it is very lucky. Thank you.
There are plenty of van channels with sweeping views, drone shots and slo-mo footage of running dogs. There is no other channel like yours. Thank you.
I agree. Straight to the meet and no fluff. Doesn’t waist a second of out time.
I’m 😊😅😅😮😮😮😮😅😅😮😮😅
You should be so proud of yourself. This video is comprehensive, well-thought out, and expertly delivered. I learned a lot. Thank you.
I'm glad I found your youtube channel. Thank you for your informative, chit-chat-free, organized, and helpful videos. Keep up the good work!
Best van build channel bar none.
In the days of most people just stealing from each other, it's refreshing to find someone who's still giving away such a plethora of knowledge. I'm truly thankful. May your material reach a larger audience, and your revenues be worth doing these excellent videos! 🙏
Hey Dude, I really like the way you present information. You have a charming, easy going and comprehensive delivery. I also admire how much research you do and how in depth you give your information is such a clear manner. Rock on and thank you for making this content!
I can't believe that you are covering heat transfer. Good on you. I appreciate your delivery. Thorough and organized.
Moser, your channel is gonna kill it! Extremely well done and comprehensive videos. Watch that Will Prowse video where he talks about his affiliates programs, channel, and books revenue. Your potential is huge.. Also, set up a Patreon and that Amazon click through kickback thing. And where the heck is your website..?
The video that I've been waiting for and didn't know it! Thank you. Very informative.
The BEST insulation comparison video. Helped me to choose the right material! Thank you!
Thank you again Moser for a well produced video - so informative! I appreciate the information delivered clearly and straight to the point.
These videos are extremely informative and helpful! Thank you so so much for making these, Sam! You’re truly making my journey to van life possible.
GREAT VID. Thank you for takin the time to make this
Excellent comparison
Great information. This was just what I needed. I love all your videos. You should start a roving van buildout business. Where you travel around and help people with their builds all over the country. I'm in Texas.😎
So impressed with the time you take to analyze all the planning process and costs of the build out. You are the first RUclipsr I support through PayPal (and I watch the ads all the way to the end to help you keep making videos.). Keep the videos coming! Thanks.
All of these are excellent. There aren't a lot of really comprehensive resources for nitty gritty stuff like this. Keep up the good work.
This is easily the best video on insulation for vans (and maybe about insulation in general!).
Well done and well thought out. Always a thumbs up video 👍
Thank you so much for the details and covering all aspects from price to R value to health..... Helped me to choose the one suit me the most.
Very clear thorough review... great job young man goodjob. Thankyou
Moser, another good one buddy! keep it up!
What a wealth of information! I was pretty lost before watching this video. I think I have a handle of things now. Thank you so much for doing all this research and then sharing your findings!
Another outstanding video, thanks Sam.
Very clear and well presented. A couple of points that made me ask wth? VOC's from fibreglas? I imagine this is referring to building a fibreglas shell with epoxy and the VOC's that result during curing. All loose insulation and some rigid foam (open cell like polystyrene) will allow moisture to pass thru to the cold metal surface and produce condensation. You need a vapor barrier with acoustic sealant at edges and seams to prevent moisture buildup and loss of insulation value and worse mold or rot. Finally, some rigid foam has a shiny polymer on one side. The air gap must be on the shiny side and that must be facing the heat source that you want to reflect. So if you want to retain heat in cold weather you want the shiny side inward with the air gap on the inside of the reflective material. This setup will not reflect heat away from the vehicle in the summer. To reject heat you would need the air gap between the sheet metal and the reflective material and then the insulation inside that. Heat transfer is very complex and you did a great job with a lot of information.
Amazing playlist, keep it up!
This is by far the best van insulation video comparison I have seen. Thank you for all of the information!
Love your videos! Best van build videos on the web!
I had not thought of Thinsulate or wool! Thanks!
also good thing to mention about wool insulation, Unless properly secured to the walls it will fall and all compress at the bottom of wall cavities.
Nice presentation. Your videos get right to the point and cover what is needed. Subscribed!
I just started my van conversion here in Brazil and your videos are at the same time informative and inspiring. Thank you so much Moser!
Many thanks for such a well presented, informative, helpful upload
Another great video. These are all great.
loved watching these videos
Great video man. You have a great grasp of a very complicated topic for such a young man. Thanks. How about a vid on van layout?
One additional consideration regarding spray foam - be aware that many/most body shops will refuse to work on any area that has spray foam behind/near it.
Outstanding review. Thank you!
Thank you. This is an awesome video. Very informative. I appreciate the time you took to make and share this video.
This is great! To the point and informative. Thanks for the upload!
Nice job!
I’ve watched around 5 videos from your channel, you produce amazing content! Thabk you!
extraordinary review, be blessed man
Havelock for my build. You just finalized that decision. Cheers from Canader eh!
you just confirm why I'm using wool . great content
Moser, you have made an outstanding series of videos. Well done! I will subscribe. Keep up the good work!
Awesome video man! thanks!
This is so helpful thank you!
Very helpful. Thanks!
thank you well done Happy Trails
the complexity in just insulating that the weird geometry of vans entail, i'm begining to the even more that the way to go is a box that you build out, and then attach onto a cutaway cargo van.
Then maybe cut out a hole so that you can walk directly into the driver's seat.
And also add some aerodynamic plastic fenders so that the oncoming air goes around the van more smoothly instead of a flat face of the box.
Great video! Thx!
What about Hemp? Thanks for a fantastic video
I'm insulating my van now. Your video was EXCELLENT. Thank you. I'm wanting to use spray foam in parts of my van I can't reach with the rigid stuff. Would spray foam make my van rust? Hope you can reply.
No mention of corrugated cardboard or corrugated plastic (AKA Coroplast) or marine foams?
Hey Sam, what kind of insulation did you use for those deep places near the wheel wells of your Transit van? I have a Transit van but am camping at a campground on Mcchord AFB in the cold and I use an electric heater to keep warm but condensation is building up real bad on the wheel wells and in those deep cut outs. Thanks! Happy Holidays 🎄.
Very clear and informative presentation. But I thought you would cover vapour barriers?
thank you
Im trying to figure out what insulation would be best for irish weather (winter) loads of different info but this is helping break it dowm. Still cant decide tho 😅
Thank you for another great video! I did not know that polyiso loses R-value in the cold. I am liking wool for my next build. I heard hemp is gaining popularity but haven't researched it. I am unsure on spray foam having heard batt insulation like wool and Thinsulate manage moisture better. Anyway, video is much appreciated.
VERY good video, thanks for taking the educational classroom approach. I don’t need to know what’s going on in your personal life when I am researching insulation. I am just starting to build my 2nd van, and this subject has gotten more brain processing time that most other up-fitting issues. I am beginning to believe most of us are killing a fly with a sledgehammer. Let’s face the fact that you are working inside a tin can. The structure of this tin can includes many, many hollow spaces that are difficult, or impossible to insulate effectively. You can fight this battle with 3 weapons; insulation materials, good heaters and good ventilation. The heaters and the ventilation are easier ways to effect the entire living area of your van/RV. Insulation is much more difficult to do this with. Steel is a great conductor and every surface that touches it moves heat into or out of you van. Forget a radiant barrier, you will have near zero effect on the comfort inside your van for your effort. If you insist on the comforts of a stick build home, stay home. If you want to live in a van in the outdoors, get a good heater, and season appropriate clothing!
Great video - very informative. I've seen some folks advocating covering all exposed interior metal surfaces with neoprene to combat condensation. Any thoughts on that? Seems like that might be better at absorbing moisture than combatting it.
The best way..to insulate a van..is to pray it snows a foot…lol ..Eskimo talk 😉
Great info, thank you!
Hi Moser! Im thinking about insulating my van with 20mm Kaiflex but I'm not sure if I'd need an aluminium layer too... what do you think about it? do you think Kaiflex (or Armaflex) is a good choice?
Congrats again for your work and channel and thank you.
Greetings from Spain!
It sounds like your favorite choice is wool. Is that what you would build with now?
I’d like to know about vapor barriers. Will a vapor barrier keep moisture out of insulation? What options are there for vapor barrier material? Is a vapor barrier compromised when screwed through to attach a plywood wall for example?
I just watched another van insulation video, where foam board was used on the floor and ceiling and then mineral wool in the walls and crevices. The argument was made that the vapor barrier was critical to seal the insulation in so that moisture from within the van could not reach the insulation. So reflectix was used as a vapor barrier material and was completely taped in place with aluminum tape. Then plywood walls were attached to that.
@@MoserMakes You raise a good point about the metal being a vapor barrier and so moisture will be trapped between the exterior metal and the interior vapor barrier. However, most automotive construction has vent holes and drain holes between the inner (structural) and outer body panels to deal with condensation and leaks around windows etc. It is important when installing insulation that you do not block this ventilation by stuffing all of the supports with wool or spray foam. If you take factory panels off of doors you will see under the upholstered panel a vapor barrier with a sealant applied between the metal inner panel and the vapor barrier. This barrier is to prevent warm moist air from hitting the cold exterior metal other door components. I hope this helps.
Moser Makes There are many videos on van insulation, yet not a lot of agreement on materials or methods, but I feel your two videos here on insulation and vapor barriers clear up all the confusion so that I can proceed with a solid plan for my next van build, somewhere in the next 6 to 8 months.
Five years ago I bought a Chevy Express 3500 and built it into a work van and full-time home. I love this lifestyle, I have never been happier, and I’m ready to repeat the process with a high roof van this time. But I want to build it better, especially the insulation and the electrical and the plumbing. My goal is to have all those decisions made before I buy the van, so that the build can happen rather quickly without delays to research how to do each phase of the build.
Rest assured your videos and comments here are extremely helpful, and I greatly appreciate the clarity, conciseness, time and effort you’ve put into everything.
@@MoserMakes Thank you for your thoughts. I think we can agree that it is complicated and that the last thing you want is moisture in insulation with nowhere to go. A civil engineering prof (John Timusk) from the University of Toronto came up with a house that had dynamic walls he drilled holes in walls between the studs that allow air to flow (slowly) and either cool or warm as it moves from inside to outside. I think that some variation of this might be the solution for van insulation perhaps one or 2 laptop fans on either side.
Very informative! Thank you!
I'm going with natural wool insulation in my future van build
For non-Americans: this video describes R-values in [ft²·°F·h/BTU]. Most other countries will use an R-value that's also known as the Rd-value, which is specified in [m²⋅K/W]. It is a factor 5.678 lower than the American R-value.
Hope this helps, it took me a while before I figured out why the values in this video were so high xD
What if you used the highest R value per thickness material, and then coated it in some sort of sealer prevent moisture from degrading the material as well as to trap the harmful particles and fumes from getting into the air?
And if the sealer is a thermal bridge, just wrap the sealed rigid foam board with wool to mitigate some of the thermal bridging, effectively turning a parallel thermal circuit back into a series one.
reminds me of report presentation in college
gotta say Moser, Veerry infomative!
How is cork more sustainable?, they are already using rubber corks for wine because of the cork shortage.
Yes
Great video as always Sam. Do you have amazon affiliate links? i didnt see any on your site id like to support the channel
One upconversion company's experience on RUclips said they have tried different types and methods of spray foam with panel warpage from the exothermic hardening process of the foam. It would be interesting to hear if DIYers have had the same experience?
Hey Moser
Thanks for bringing us these gifts of information
I am truuuly grateful
I'd even like to donate
any platform for that ?
If I may add: spray foam will fill drain holes, so they won't be able to do the job they were intended for.
But you dont need them. No condensation can form on the metal shell.
I'd be really interested to have the fire risk/retardant values in these also! Is thinsulate more fire retardant than wool? That would be the only thing making thinsulate the better option
for a radiant barrier, doesn't the air gap have to be on the outside (aka the radiation source), rather than on any one side?
How would you ventilate insulation? By having some space between the insulation and the wall siding?
Thank you!
What are VOCs?
"Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are organic compounds that easily become vapors or gases. Many VOCs are hazardous air pollutants."
(I had to look it up. 😃)
ps:
I was a bit confused when you mentioned at the end the sound-deadning isolation without mentioning more
Don't you use Thinsulate for that ?
Thanks !
i believe so
How do you fix Thinsulate to the walls and ceiling of the van? If you do it with glue is there a good glue that doesn’t have off gassing problems? Are there other clever ways of fixing it to the wall? Also if the insulation isn’t covered with wall paneling of some kind will it’s insulation properties suffer much?
Moser Makes
But wall paneling does provide an air gap.
Thanks for the glueless suggestion and link.
Thanks so much for this! How thick of natural wool insulation would you recommend for a Van prepping for a Michigan winter?
The big thing here is not to compress the batts. They will loose r value if you do this. Best to measure your depth then adjust your thickness accordingly. You can peel layers off the batts to adjust for depth variations. Again, don't compress & you'll b fine.
The simple answer is : insulating a van is expensive if done correctly. Most people use cheaper products to cut the cost. Use what the companies who make camper vans use and do it once.
After 4 years, covid and camperization business growth... is there some improvement? Some new material? After all your experience, what could be the best combination between cost/insulation and health care of the insulation materials? Thanks
Havelock wool is what I’ve been using the most now.
@@MoserMakes i've seen a lot of enthusiastic (paid) review about that product. Thanks Moser
@@MarcoPi-pq5kg I have no affiliation with them but I've had good experiences in my uses with it and it's cheaper than thinsulate.
@@MoserMakes i don't want to say you made advice for them... My intentions was to say: thanks, i've read Always a lot but there was Paid review, so hearing from you that Is a really good solution Makes me think It Is true and that deserve a try. Sorry if due To my bad english i wrote a rude thing :(
@@MarcoPi-pq5kg all good! I figured that was what you meant
Weight is important for my planning. Kg per m3 would be nice. Cheers.
None are that heavy.
Thank you, Sam! I was hoping for some information regarding fire retardation.
Nixt.
Algorythm come on!!!!
What about HEMP?
What about Hemp? I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
have you tried it yourself?
What about Armaflex?b
Recycling plastic is best by far
JJ from Outer Banks
Great video. Just can't get use to understand R value, instead of U value (which is regardless of thickness of material). R value is a misleading&confusing American term. Anyway I'll check your other videos, it should be informative.
Insulation is just one of several layers to use in Automotive applications. You can use any type you like. You apply it wrong. You're wasting your money and time...
And yes I tried most of them. Only one way works to stop heat\cold transferring to the inside\outside of the Vehicle. So if you want true four season insulation properties. Learn how to use and install the stuff...
And? So which type do you think is the most effective?
@@TheAllang123 I prefer 3M SM400L..Placed against the bare walls first. Then Radiant Barrier RadiantGUARD XTREME Attic Insulation 1000 sq ft on the outside of that..Making sure you cover all exposed metal surfaces. The roof is a big one. Windows are a heat sink. You can use tint that is applied to the outside. The same stuff they use on Car wraps..
And you don't have to use lots of spray glue. You just want it to stay put. Till you foil wrap over it. Then install your paneling. As the Spray glue will turn to dust any ways.
How much you need depends on you.