Best IR tutorial on RUclips, thanks for the tips and hints and real time information. I was going to buy an IR converted camera. I think this is a better non destructive way to go about it. I own too many cameras already. Thanks again
Usually, the very first adjustment I do to my IR photos (after setting profile and WB) is to set black and white points (shift clicking on black and white sliders). This normally introduces a good amount of contrast in the photo by itself. Then I fine tune with clarity and dehaze, and where necessary with tone mapping in Photoshop.
This is absolutely the best Rob! I can't wait to apply all of these, in one form or another, on IR images. I can see how this would work wonders for a color image you want to convert to black and white. 👍
You sir are a treasure to go down in IR photography legend. Thank you for your contributions and inspiration. Getting a GFX camera modded to full spectrum is my DREAM. A bit too nervous to send in my gfx (my main/only camera) for the mod, but one day when the price of the 50S goes down, I'm 100% getting a full spectrum second body.
hell yea. full spectrum is great. wish I converted my GFX 100s instead of selling it. currently I have a full spectrum X-T2 and thinking about it for my X-H2 but im torn because I kind of light leaving it unconverted to be able to have long exposures for some shots. not sure id want to do full spectrum AND add an ND to get the same effect. damn.
hi Rob Thanks so much! you're so generous with all that you share One question I have, I seem to get a lot of colour cast in the actual clouds themselves, I go over them where I can with a brush but it's not ideal, thankyou
This could be a couple of things. It could be a white balance issue. Using the picker to white balance on the clouds could address this. Or, it could be a hot spot. While the most obvious hot spots will increase exposure, some hot spots will also shift the color temperature, so that it's different in the middle of the image compared to the edges. In this case, I will use a broad radial filter with lots of feather and then apply a light temperature shift of -20 to +20.
@@robshea For anyone shooting Sony a6xxx series and contemplating the excellent but older Sigma 19/30/60mm f/2.8 DN ART series, the 60mm has a horrible hotspot (even on my a6000 with Kolari hotspot reducing coating on the sensor). I can count on 1 hand the number of times I've used it/tried to use it in IR photography. I cannot comment on how these lenses perform for other cameras
Great stuff. Do you find that different filters have a dramatic affect on the amount of contrast you can draw out? and clouds? on some overcast days I get a histogram that looks like a spire, and I can't get much contrast it seems no matter what I do.
Absolutely! Overcast skies can reduce contrast. Shooting in the shade can dramatically reduce contrast. Some filters, such as higher cut-offs, can reduce contrast. It requires a balance of finding the right subject in the right lighting conditions. In overcast conditions, try lower numbered high-pass filters, such as 550 or 590nm.
My version of LR is really old (5.7.1), so some of these adjustments aren't available. But I may just try this for some portrait work to see how it stacks up to the otherwise long process of manually editing each image in PS. :) Well done, sir.
@@robshea Looking at how I edit my work, this could replace a LOT of PS for me. The one thing PS offers I couldn't get in LR is the control for dodging and burning.
Hi Rob, When I crank up the dehaze on BW infrared, I tend to get tons of pinholes in my skies. What gives? I like to slide the dehaze to about 90-100 that gives a really cool effect. However, the higher I go the more the spots are obvious. If I go down to say 50-60 they are not as noticeable, but the overall IR effect for the photo is mediocre. I had my Nikon D750 cleaned thinking it was my sensor, but it is still happening. I use the Kolari 720 and set my camera to monochrome. Any clues on how I can combat this? Thanks!
I tried this on a few Nikon images and was able to see some hot pixels and dust on the sensor. I'm not sure if this is the same as what you are seeing. Can you send me an image? 590.red/share
@@robshea Thanks Rob! Just sent 2 photos from the same raw file. One with tons of obvious pinholes cranked at 95 on dehaze. The other is the same image at about 60 on dehaze with little if any pinholes.
@@danwestfall3758 I've tested about a dozen images from various Nikon cameras, including a D750, at 100% dehaze and none are showing this effect. Can you send me a raw file to test? What other settings are you using in LR?
Best IR tutorial on RUclips, thanks for the tips and hints and real time information. I was going to buy an IR converted camera. I think this is a better non destructive way to go about it. I own too many cameras already.
Thanks again
Rob, THANK YOU! Another awesome tutorial
Great tip on the automask!
Excellent, Rob
I really like your show and they help me. Thanks 😊
* THANKS * SUPERRRRRRR................!
Thanks for the continuing excellent tutorials.
Hi Rob another great video. I always pick up new techniques from your videos. Thank you.
Usually, the very first adjustment I do to my IR photos (after setting profile and WB) is to set black and white points (shift clicking on black and white sliders). This normally introduces a good amount of contrast in the photo by itself. Then I fine tune with clarity and dehaze, and where necessary with tone mapping in Photoshop.
Excellent, thanks!
Hi Rob , nice explanation as usual , buy the way XT3 is in the shop being converted to full spectrum . Cant wait .
Nice tutorial. Well explained.
Good tips, thanks for sharing! :-)
This is absolutely the best Rob! I can't wait to apply all of these, in one form or another, on IR images. I can see how this would work wonders for a color image you want to convert to black and white. 👍
You sir are a treasure to go down in IR photography legend. Thank you for your contributions and inspiration. Getting a GFX camera modded to full spectrum is my DREAM. A bit too nervous to send in my gfx (my main/only camera) for the mod, but one day when the price of the 50S goes down, I'm 100% getting a full spectrum second body.
hell yea. full spectrum is great. wish I converted my GFX 100s instead of selling it. currently I have a full spectrum X-T2 and thinking about it for my X-H2 but im torn because I kind of light leaving it unconverted to be able to have long exposures for some shots. not sure id want to do full spectrum AND add an ND to get the same effect. damn.
hi Rob Thanks so much! you're so generous with all that you share
One question I have, I seem to get a lot of colour cast in the actual clouds themselves, I go over them where I can with a brush but it's not ideal, thankyou
This could be a couple of things. It could be a white balance issue. Using the picker to white balance on the clouds could address this. Or, it could be a hot spot. While the most obvious hot spots will increase exposure, some hot spots will also shift the color temperature, so that it's different in the middle of the image compared to the edges. In this case, I will use a broad radial filter with lots of feather and then apply a light temperature shift of -20 to +20.
Hey Rob, cool stuff! Any reports about how well the new Fuji lenses (18/23/33mm) operate with IR?
The 33mm has hot spots. No reports on the new 18 or 23mm yet.
@@robshea For anyone shooting Sony a6xxx series and contemplating the excellent but older Sigma 19/30/60mm f/2.8 DN ART series, the 60mm has a horrible hotspot (even on my a6000 with Kolari hotspot reducing coating on the sensor). I can count on 1 hand the number of times I've used it/tried to use it in IR photography.
I cannot comment on how these lenses perform for other cameras
Great stuff. Do you find that different filters have a dramatic affect on the amount of contrast you can draw out? and clouds? on some overcast days I get a histogram that looks like a spire, and I can't get much contrast it seems no matter what I do.
Absolutely! Overcast skies can reduce contrast. Shooting in the shade can dramatically reduce contrast. Some filters, such as higher cut-offs, can reduce contrast. It requires a balance of finding the right subject in the right lighting conditions. In overcast conditions, try lower numbered high-pass filters, such as 550 or 590nm.
My version of LR is really old (5.7.1), so some of these adjustments aren't available. But I may just try this for some portrait work to see how it stacks up to the otherwise long process of manually editing each image in PS. :)
Well done, sir.
The new masks feature, while not a complete replacement for PS, brings LR closer to the functionality of PS. And the workflow is much faster.
@@robshea Looking at how I edit my work, this could replace a LOT of PS for me. The one thing PS offers I couldn't get in LR is the control for dodging and burning.
0:13 was that the Frederik Meijer Gardens?
Yes, the American Horse at Meijer Gardens.
I thought I recognized it! I took a few photos of it in aerochrome a few years ago
Hi Rob, When I crank up the dehaze on BW infrared, I tend to get tons of pinholes in my skies. What gives? I like to slide the dehaze to about 90-100 that gives a really cool effect. However, the higher I go the more the spots are obvious. If I go down to say 50-60 they are not as noticeable, but the overall IR effect for the photo is mediocre. I had my Nikon D750 cleaned thinking it was my sensor, but it is still happening. I use the Kolari 720 and set my camera to monochrome. Any clues on how I can combat this? Thanks!
I tried this on a few Nikon images and was able to see some hot pixels and dust on the sensor. I'm not sure if this is the same as what you are seeing. Can you send me an image? 590.red/share
@@robshea Thanks Rob! Just sent 2 photos from the same raw file. One with tons of obvious pinholes cranked at 95 on dehaze. The other is the same image at about 60 on dehaze with little if any pinholes.
@@danwestfall3758 I've tested about a dozen images from various Nikon cameras, including a D750, at 100% dehaze and none are showing this effect. Can you send me a raw file to test? What other settings are you using in LR?
@@robshea Hi I sent an email through your website. Thanks!