Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it." Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5. Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it. Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
Another benefit to a scraper plane: I’m a luthier primarily. If you need to thickness figured stock, the scraper blade is fantastic. I also use a no. 62 with an iron regroups to make it a high angle plane for this job.
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster. It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
I agreed with your assessment on the bench planes with the exception of the #7, I didn’t hear you mention the #6 which is actually my choice as the step between the 5 1/2 an 8. Lots of information in short time. bravo.
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it! Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring. Brilliant! Many many thanks, mate!
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool. BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie. I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight. I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up. I prefer the low angle block planes, too. I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different. Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
I can't survive without my router plane. Superb. I have not yet been convinced by my shoulder plane, which is a little smaller than yours but not tiny.
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
Router plane and rebate plane before shoulder plane. I like to mark tenons with the router, set depth stop, split waste with a chisel and then clean them with the router in shallow passes.
I think your recommendations are spot on. The one plane that just gathers dust in my kit is the scrub plane. As soon as I got a power planer I knew I'd never use it again.
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose. But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one. Understanding is key, not just following advice.
Great that you narrowed them to only two! I own the Veritas starter planes; low angle jack, low angle block and small smoother and can tell you they work great! Would love to have a bit more weight on the smoother though.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator. Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host. Keep it up.
I agree with your selection. I have a #4 and a homemade block plane and a old cheap plane I converted into a scrub plane. I really wished I had a 7 or 8 for jointing though.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just getting started in proper woodworking (basic dovetail boxes for some gifts) and I needed to get a plane to clean up the proud parts, so it looks like a #4 or #5 bench plane will do me, which people have said, but now I know why, and now I know that I should get a low angle one rather than the standard angle. Thank you :)
Thanks so much for this video. I am just getting started picking out my hand tools for woodworking and have hesitated picking up planes due to lack of knowledge. This was very informative and helps a ton in my decision making!
Hey guys and gals, the low angle jack plane is for end grain just like the low angle block plane. For wood that tears out(like curly maple or wood with knots) a scraper plane works great like Stanley #112.
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
Ooh, I really must object to the lack of even a mention of the virtues of an iron-bodied #3. For smaller stuff, like edges of thin drawer-box stock for example, and anything off-angle or ergonomically awkward (like overhead, vertical edges, anything planed in place rather than working on a pre-assembly part clamped to your workbench)... Any of those non-standard situations (i.e., just about any kind of work other than cabinetry), the lighter, more handle-able #3 is absolutely invaluable. Actually, if it weren't for the fact that the #4 is just SO much more commonly available on the antique market (where I'm shopping)... If I were buying a full kit brand new, I'd likely opt for a #3 and a #4-1/2 as a functional pair (heavier 4-1/2 for larger-scale bench work and final surfacing finish passes, #3 for almost everything else in the "smooth plane" purview) rather than just making do with the #4 for everything. Another way to think of it, is that the #3 (or even a #2 !) fills the gap where a guy with a #4 as his smallest bench plane, would otherwise be trying to make his block plane do heavier work than it's really good for.
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
Great information. And I was wondering if you have tried the lie-Nielsen rabbet block plane. I’ve heard good things about it and it could possible simplify the arsenal down to just three planes with the #62, the rabbet block, and the router plane.
A huge thank you man !!! I've been looking around to buy my first planes for months now and I never managed to find a decent explanation on the differences and use of all the those different planes... You're video is just the best explanation I've ever seen :o
Great video Matt, thank you. I've got two #4's that were passed down to me, a low angle block, a small shoulder and a #6 on its way from ebay as we speak.
As a person who bought way too much planes at the beginning, I really like your approach here. Of course some people will disagree (for example I would prefer no. 4 or no. 5 as my first bench plane) and there are also other things to consider (like buying old used planes), but this is a great video in contrast to "let me show you those basic 15 planes that you absolutely need at the beginning" videos.
Another excellent video packed with lots of useful info. followed the links to buy the two you recommended and they went to planes that you hadn't recommended. The Low Angle Jack plane went to a normal angled Jack Plane for instance. Do you have another link to the Rider Jack please?
Great channel. Loved your Roubo bench video. Only realised when watching this video that you are English. Nice to see an Englishman capable of giving the American woodworkers a run for their money!
Hi Matt, thanks for putting this into practical perspective. I highly appreciate you made the effort of filming this. I am quite novice and developed woodworking passion as a hobby so I really want to be on the right (correct ) foot so I may enjoy it rather than curse it. One additional practical advice if we are choosing from a narrow range of bench planes to own: between Low-Angle Jack Plane (i.e Veritas Low-Angle Jack Plane No. 62) and Low-Angle Jack Rabbet Plane (like Lie-Nielsen Low-Angle Jack Rabbet Plane No. 610) which one would you recommend? Price aside… Thanks in advance!
If you get a decent router plane there is a fence with it so you can use it as a shoulder plane. Not a good shoulder plane but unless you are doing a lot of shoulders, it is sufficient to get by. Not having a router plane is a pain as you only have the option of using a chisel then, not by any means ideal.
The world seems split between the #4 and the low angle #5 as the goto starter plane. I prefer the #4. I've got a few block planes but really only use them for carpentry and fitting. My question is, What about the bullnose?. Fantastic for rebates and drawer fitting.
Great video Matt. As for the router plane I have a Stanley no. 71, with full nickle plating, but on a granite slab I can tell that the sole isn't perfectly flat. It's not wildly out, just slight. Should I be concerned? I don't want to lap all that beautiful nickle off.
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
Hey Matt, loved your video again very much. What plane did you use in your dovetail guide video to plane the doves and tales on the end of the video? Because that is what I am looking for. Is it the No. 4? Many thanks and go on with that nice videos!
Yes, I was surprised that you didn't include spokeshaves... but then, you represent the power tools generation. Paul Sellers wouldn't want to ever miss his spokeshaves :-)
Bill Hartsfield I’m sorry I'm a newbie so this might be the silly question people say there’s no such thing as. What is the difference between the spokeshave and the cabinet scraper in this video please?
@@markharris5771 the spokeshave has an actual blade similar to a block plane blade for trimming/chamfering flats/corners and the scraper is for removing very samll amount of material (shavings practically look like saw dust) on flat surfaces hence the term "cabinet scraper."
Triune Blades Thank you very much indeed for your explanation. On one of the Wood by Wright videos James explained the difference between a cabinet scraper and a card scraper to me, so I think I have all three straight in my head now.I never knew woodwork was so complicated, I thought I’d be making photograph frames that would have outshone Grandin Gibbons within a fortnight. Thanks again.
Hi Matt, when you had been in machine shop there was some sawhorses to put marterials on any way you could give more information regarding sawhorses seem simple but very effective
I am getting back into woodworking and enjoying your videos. Do you ever use planes to surface rough lumber? I found that I could use my #7 to flatten one side of a board, but I broke down and got a power planner because it requires lots of effort and skill to thickness plane by hand. Going to watch your "The Chopping Board" videos next.
Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: ruclips.net/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/видео.html&t
Please post links to the two must-haves from the final seconds, if that's possible.
No.
Amazing job brother
Hi matt I was pretty rude to you in a previous video. I was out of order and apologise. For your age your an impressive young man.
Stay safe
Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
Brandon That’s what Patreon is there for. Link in the description.
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
"size doesn't matter, just get the one that fits your hand the best" ;)
Said the vicar to the nun
That what she said 🙋
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
I always love the "PrEfErEnCe" videos. Yeah thanks mate. That's why I give you views for, like, your advice.
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
NUTS. AND. BOLTS. No messing around and I really appreciate it, Mr. Matt. Nicely done.
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it."
Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5.
Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it.
Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
Beginning wood worker. Went to a high end woodworking store to get plane advice. They had non idea how to guide me. This was indispensable.
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
Another benefit to a scraper plane:
I’m a luthier primarily. If you need to thickness figured stock, the scraper blade is fantastic. I also use a no. 62 with an iron regroups to make it a high angle plane for this job.
You are my hero with everything I am learning in college right now
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
As a carpenter I would choose a #4, #5 and a block plane first. Then a router plane and a slim shoulder plane or an outright combination plane.
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster.
It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
I agreed with your assessment on the bench planes with the exception of the #7, I didn’t hear you mention the #6 which is actually my choice as the step between the 5 1/2 an 8. Lots of information in short time. bravo.
I quite admire your collection of tools watching your videos it’s quite amazing the amount of things you have accumulated over the years
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it!
Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring.
Brilliant!
Many many thanks, mate!
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool.
BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie.
I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight.
I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up.
I prefer the low angle block planes, too.
I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different.
Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
Thank you Matt! your video keeps giving!
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
I can't survive without my router plane. Superb. I have not yet been convinced by my shoulder plane, which is a little smaller than yours but not tiny.
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
Router plane and rebate plane before shoulder plane. I like to mark tenons with the router, set depth stop, split waste with a chisel and then clean them with the router in shallow passes.
I love your work and your videos. Ive been an auto tech for years and am getting into wood working and your knowledge is great to learn from.
I think your recommendations are spot on. The one plane that just gathers dust in my kit is the scrub plane. As soon as I got a power planer I knew I'd never use it again.
Fantastic video. Right on time for me. I'm in search of the right hand planes for my growing shop. Thank you.
Great overview! Interesting how people have strong opinions about the low angle jack vs a 5 or 5 1/2. As a newbie, it's hard to choose.
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose.
But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one.
Understanding is key, not just following advice.
Great video, you really broke it down well and I appreciate that. Quality tools are the way to go but many those are expensive.
Great that you narrowed them to only two! I own the Veritas starter planes; low angle jack, low angle block and small smoother and can tell you they work great! Would love to have a bit more weight on the smoother though.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator.
Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host.
Keep it up.
In the EOD Community, a shit-ton is a technical unit of measure. I really enjoyed hearing it when you were talking about the scrub plane.
Thank you so much!! Have been trying to get a straight answer for weeks - and just just provided it!!
Quality! Glad it was helpful!
i should have gotten the low angle jack, it is true, it is more versatile, it can smooth and can also be fitted to be a scrub plane.
I agree with your selection. I have a #4 and a homemade block plane and a old cheap plane I converted into a scrub plane. I really wished I had a 7 or 8 for jointing though.
a 787 for long distance, a 737 for medium distance and a Cessna 172 for short distance. An a380 is also nice if you want to show off.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just getting started in proper woodworking (basic dovetail boxes for some gifts) and I needed to get a plane to clean up the proud parts, so it looks like a #4 or #5 bench plane will do me, which people have said, but now I know why, and now I know that I should get a low angle one rather than the standard angle. Thank you :)
You're brilliant mate thanks for the tips!
If you start a band, "Flash Bastard" has got to be the name.
Thank you so much, man. Seriously, low angle jack plane, block plane. I’m good
Thanks so much for this video. I am just getting started picking out my hand tools for woodworking and have hesitated picking up planes due to lack of knowledge. This was very informative and helps a ton in my decision making!
I exactly started with a block plane and later bought a low angle jack from veritas. I love that wide beastly plane :)
Hey guys and gals, the low angle jack plane is for end grain just like the low angle block plane. For wood that tears out(like curly maple or wood with knots) a scraper plane works great like Stanley #112.
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
You've answered questions I've had for years! Thanks man
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
Ooh, I really must object to the lack of even a mention of the virtues of an iron-bodied #3. For smaller stuff, like edges of thin drawer-box stock for example, and anything off-angle or ergonomically awkward (like overhead, vertical edges, anything planed in place rather than working on a pre-assembly part clamped to your workbench)... Any of those non-standard situations (i.e., just about any kind of work other than cabinetry), the lighter, more handle-able #3 is absolutely invaluable.
Actually, if it weren't for the fact that the #4 is just SO much more commonly available on the antique market (where I'm shopping)... If I were buying a full kit brand new, I'd likely opt for a #3 and a #4-1/2 as a functional pair (heavier 4-1/2 for larger-scale bench work and final surfacing finish passes, #3 for almost everything else in the "smooth plane" purview) rather than just making do with the #4 for everything. Another way to think of it, is that the #3 (or even a #2 !) fills the gap where a guy with a #4 as his smallest bench plane, would otherwise be trying to make his block plane do heavier work than it's really good for.
Drat. I came here hoping to learn more about my No. 6 Stanley and you left it out completely. Still enjoyed it, though.
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
Great information. And I was wondering if you have tried the lie-Nielsen rabbet block plane. I’ve heard good things about it and it could possible simplify the arsenal down to just three planes with the #62, the rabbet block, and the router plane.
A huge thank you man !!! I've been looking around to buy my first planes for months now and I never managed to find a decent explanation on the differences and use of all the those different planes... You're video is just the best explanation I've ever seen :o
Great video Matt, thank you. I've got two #4's that were passed down to me, a low angle block, a small shoulder and a #6 on its way from ebay as we speak.
As a person who bought way too much planes at the beginning, I really like your approach here. Of course some people will disagree (for example I would prefer no. 4 or no. 5 as my first bench plane) and there are also other things to consider (like buying old used planes), but this is a great video in contrast to "let me show you those basic 15 planes that you absolutely need at the beginning" videos.
Hi, what did you get that was "too much" ? ?
Very excellent presentation! Well Done ! Mr Matt 👍. Love the Jack plane’s 12.5 degrees 😍
I just discovered your videos and now I just can't stop watching. Excellent stuff. Thanks so much!
Another excellent video packed with lots of useful info. followed the links to buy the two you recommended and they went to planes that you hadn't recommended. The Low Angle Jack plane went to a normal angled Jack Plane for instance. Do you have another link to the Rider Jack please?
Great channel. Loved your Roubo bench video. Only realised when watching this video that you are English. Nice to see an Englishman capable of giving the American woodworkers a run for their money!
Wish I watched this 3 years ago, cheers Matt
Hi Matt, thanks for putting this into practical perspective. I highly appreciate you made the effort of filming this. I am quite novice and developed woodworking passion as a hobby so I really want to be on the right (correct ) foot so I may enjoy it rather than curse it. One additional practical advice if we are choosing from a narrow range of bench planes to own: between Low-Angle Jack Plane (i.e Veritas Low-Angle Jack Plane No. 62) and Low-Angle Jack Rabbet Plane (like Lie-Nielsen Low-Angle Jack Rabbet Plane No. 610) which one would you recommend? Price aside… Thanks in advance!
Good job bro! On a confidence scale, I give you 9.999 out of 10...
Good job Matt !
Cheers Matt. Off to buy my first plane so.
Love your videos, thanks for all your suggestions.
rabbeting block plane is another lovely plane, great for cleaning up tenons etc.
If you get a decent router plane there is a fence with it so you can use it as a shoulder plane. Not a good shoulder plane but unless you are doing a lot of shoulders, it is sufficient to get by.
Not having a router plane is a pain as you only have the option of using a chisel then, not by any means ideal.
Thank you for the thorough explanation! This really helps for those of us starting out with (1) plane, and looking for what to do next. Well done.
The world seems split between the #4 and the low angle #5 as the goto starter plane. I prefer the #4. I've got a few block planes but really only use them for carpentry and fitting.
My question is, What about the bullnose?. Fantastic for rebates and drawer fitting.
Matt, your videos are incredibly informative! Thank you so much.
Finally, a video that helps navigate the fog. Thanks Matt.
Glad it helped Dan, cheers!
Great video Matt. As for the router plane I have a Stanley no. 71, with full nickle plating, but on a granite slab I can tell that the sole isn't perfectly flat. It's not wildly out, just slight. Should I be concerned? I don't want to lap all that beautiful nickle off.
Very good overview and recommendations.
I agree with your recommendations based on my own experience.
I enjoy your videos. I like the enthusiasm.
You're doing a great job dude, love your editing style. Gordan would be proud.
I think a No. 6 is better for guitarbuilding, and is handier than a 7 or 8 for many jobs. An old No.3 can be converted to a useful scrub plane easily.
Great video and super informative. Thanks for the info!
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
have you thought about a video on shop made tools? eg a router plane is very easy to make and Axminster sells blades cheap
I have! But making them super functional and pretty. Not just a blade wedged into a bit of wood! I'll have a think
Hey Matt, loved your video again very much. What plane did you use in your dovetail guide video to plane the doves and tales on the end of the video? Because that is what I am looking for. Is it the No. 4? Many thanks and go on with that nice videos!
One of your rather useful vids .Thanks
Nice video. Agree with your choices, I would just add a SpokeShave, nothing you've shown works well on curves
Yes, I was surprised that you didn't include spokeshaves... but then, you represent the power tools generation. Paul Sellers wouldn't want to ever miss his spokeshaves :-)
Bill Hartsfield I’m sorry I'm a newbie so this might be the silly question people say there’s no such thing as. What is the difference between the spokeshave and the cabinet scraper in this video please?
@@markharris5771 the spokeshave has an actual blade similar to a block plane blade for trimming/chamfering flats/corners and the scraper is for removing very samll amount of material (shavings practically look like saw dust) on flat surfaces hence the term "cabinet scraper."
Triune Blades Thank you very much indeed for your explanation. On one of the Wood by Wright videos James explained the difference between a cabinet scraper and a card scraper to me, so I think I have all three straight in my head now.I never knew woodwork was so complicated, I thought I’d be making photograph frames that would have outshone Grandin Gibbons within a fortnight. Thanks again.
Hi Matt, when you had been in machine shop there was some sawhorses to put marterials on any way you could give more information regarding sawhorses seem simple but very effective
I love my old Stanley #8c. I've never used a #7.
I am getting back into woodworking and enjoying your videos. Do you ever use planes to surface rough lumber? I found that I could use my #7 to flatten one side of a board, but I broke down and got a power planner because it requires lots of effort and skill to thickness plane by hand. Going to watch your "The Chopping Board" videos next.
Perfectly sensible approach. Thicknessing by hand is hard work, especially with hard woods.
Clear, helpful explanations, especially for newbies. Thanks.