@@fmashockie I saw your knob print last night, IMSAI Guy has the same issue, he noted that he had the proper filament, I wonder if it's the same one you used
The blue connectors are notorious for decaying faster than the other colors, must be something in the dye. You can still buy new plastic parts for those inline connectors at mouser (not in different colors though.)
thank you Andy! Yes I remember Giovanni Becattini's 'Tektronix Restorer's Notebook' that pigment in the plastic can affect its durability. I believe he mentions these blue pigment connectors in that book as well
@@fmashockie RUclips wont let me post links, but go to mouser and look at Harwin connector housing headers and wire housings. Single row, 2.54mm pitch. That should narrow your search and you can just get new connector shells.
On the subject of IPA vs Deoxit (18:00) - a lot of those cam switches come with a cover on them, and the cover will have a warning sticker specifying only IPA. I'm not sure Deoxit existed back then, so their concern was probably stronger solvents - MEK, TCE, carbon tet, etc. Deoxit is hard on potentiometers - xraytonyb has a video on that. Regular Deoxit isn't supposed to be effective on gold, and I believe these have gold contacts, so maybe that's why people say not to use it here.
It due to the gold contacts pretty much and also on older scopes they used ceramic or other materials that was effected by other solvents. Also never use contact cleaners on cleaning pots as it will eat away at the carbon. Use Deoxit fader cleaner.
You forgot to tell us what its supposed to be when you measured 18v but you can see it is meant to be 5.2 ? that can be annoying !! Yeah too much time on -22 lets see whats happening on the 7 segment displays I noticed 5.2 volts is that the supply to the display chips ? are they being driven ? blah blah, seems to me it should be easy compared to other stuff to suss out this display so I'm looking forward to the next one also could you edit out some of the "um arr eh? dunno well um wait no um arr" Lol !...not picking trying to be constructive !...cheers.
Thank you so much @andymouse for still sitting thru all that! I will definitely work towards getting these shorter. Ultimately, I need to get a better editing/producing set-up to make that easier. Instead of using a free app on my phone lol. I definitely appreciate your feedback - as long as it is constructive like this, I welcome it! And yes I figured I spent too much time on this. The -18V should be -22V. The +4.7 I measured should be 5.2V. So all the supplies are too low. But I'm beginning to think that is due to it being powered by the TM5003 because even after this vid I can't find any fault. Next vid will be focused mainly on the display. Thanks for being patient and a continued watcher!
also, I try to make the timestamps as detailed as possible so people can skip thru if they'd like. Or so that they know what I'm working on. But still, definitely could be better edited/shortened
Oh I will say, your learning to be an electronics guy and a you tube guy at the same time so Kudos for that !! your nailing the electronics and the you tube bit will for sure follow on :)@@fmashockie
Nice work! :)
Thank you Charles!
@@fmashockie I saw your knob print last night, IMSAI Guy has the same issue, he noted that he had the proper filament, I wonder if it's the same one you used
deoxit makes deoxit gold for just that purpose
Thanks for that tip!! I wasn't aware of that product
The blue connectors are notorious for decaying faster than the other colors, must be something in the dye. You can still buy new plastic parts for those inline connectors at mouser (not in different colors though.)
thank you Andy! Yes I remember Giovanni Becattini's 'Tektronix Restorer's Notebook' that pigment in the plastic can affect its durability. I believe he mentions these blue pigment connectors in that book as well
@@fmashockie RUclips wont let me post links, but go to mouser and look at Harwin connector housing headers and wire housings. Single row, 2.54mm pitch. That should narrow your search and you can just get new connector shells.
On the subject of IPA vs Deoxit (18:00) - a lot of those cam switches come with a cover on them, and the cover will have a warning sticker specifying only IPA. I'm not sure Deoxit existed back then, so their concern was probably stronger solvents - MEK, TCE, carbon tet, etc.
Deoxit is hard on potentiometers - xraytonyb has a video on that. Regular Deoxit isn't supposed to be effective on gold, and I believe these have gold contacts, so maybe that's why people say not to use it here.
Thanks for the comment Mark! I'll have to check that video out by xraytonyb
It due to the gold contacts pretty much and also on older scopes they used ceramic or other materials that was effected by other solvents.
Also never use contact cleaners on cleaning pots as it will eat away at the carbon. Use Deoxit fader cleaner.
You forgot to tell us what its supposed to be when you measured 18v but you can see it is meant to be 5.2 ? that can be annoying !! Yeah too much time on -22 lets see whats happening on the 7 segment displays I noticed 5.2 volts is that the supply to the display chips ? are they being driven ? blah blah, seems to me it should be easy compared to other stuff to suss out this display so I'm looking forward to the next one also could you edit out some of the "um arr eh? dunno well um wait no um arr" Lol !...not picking trying to be constructive !...cheers.
Thank you so much @andymouse for still sitting thru all that! I will definitely work towards getting these shorter. Ultimately, I need to get a better editing/producing set-up to make that easier. Instead of using a free app on my phone lol. I definitely appreciate your feedback - as long as it is constructive like this, I welcome it! And yes I figured I spent too much time on this. The -18V should be -22V. The +4.7 I measured should be 5.2V. So all the supplies are too low. But I'm beginning to think that is due to it being powered by the TM5003 because even after this vid I can't find any fault. Next vid will be focused mainly on the display. Thanks for being patient and a continued watcher!
also, I try to make the timestamps as detailed as possible so people can skip thru if they'd like. Or so that they know what I'm working on. But still, definitely could be better edited/shortened
No Worries Keep it up@@fmashockie
Oops My bad didn't notice timestamps !:)@@fmashockie
Oh I will say, your learning to be an electronics guy and a you tube guy at the same time so Kudos for that !! your nailing the electronics and the you tube bit will for sure follow on :)@@fmashockie