I appreciate what you’re doing. It’s about time dirt stock cars got some attention! I raced for 4 years way back in the 80’s and learned a lot but I never stopped wanting to learn how to make a car go fast and turn left. Only wish I knew then what I know now. You have a practical approach and it’s nice to have each step explained well. Keep the videos coming. I look forward to each new one.
Great job on this video and the other's your explanation of what your doing and why your doing really is beneficial to me and other's wanting to build my own car so I'm confident in its safty
Hanging in a car head down working is a miserable deal! On this build I am going to try and figure out the right order to get the most access at each step.
Man I’m exited for You. The foundation is solid. I know those door bars will take a lot of time to get sorted. I absolutely love Your meticulous nature and attention to details. You are building in very well thought out safety and adjustability into this chassis. I also like the longer format. It was necessary for this step of this build. As always, can’t wait for the next installment in this build series.
Thanks for your time and teaching..this is part of racing helping others .and the attention to safety is very much apriciated..now I'm hopping to get that kind of safety in a outlaw clone gokart..I Raced a ministock datson 510 years ago it was loads of fun..again thanks for your patiants..now I just hope I can get my welding safe
SEATS. They have come a long, long way. From old Ford van seats, fiberglass seats, to today's full containment seats. I raced a guys car back in the day that had a seat made from a small barrel. Had molding around the edges....just crazy. Today's racers are so much safer than ever. Couple times I wish I had one. Another awesome video Jason.
I've seen a few of those old fiberglass race seats. . . Crazy what people used to do and now we would be like "Not a chance in hades I'd climb in that"
Very solid build, this video just showcased all your time and effort making everything plum and square and using correct measurements, the ones who just use the eyeball measuring system, this is where they would start kicking themselves in the butt for not taking the time to do it right from the beginning. I also have to shout out that welder, that’s the best bacon frying sound I’ve heard, very dialed. Did I hear you say you are in the Tennessee area? I live in Candler, NC right outside Asheville and I’m looking to network in the circle track scene, if you know of any tracks, schedules, or where you race, I would greatly appreciate a lead on the local scene. As everyone else has mentioned, we appreciate you for taking the time to bring us along and share your knowledge, nowadays you have to pay for this kind of information.
Very appreciated for the feedback Travis, First . . . . . I am on the complete other side of TN about 1 1/2 hours north of Memphis, so we are sure running different tracks. I am hoping to visit tracks over your way though like 411 and if we can, we are going to try and run at Cherokee in Gaffney, SC in May. I'll be the first to say this Vulcan Omnipro is not a Miller but for $800 I have been very happily satisfied. I have made a few mods including moving to a better 15 foot lead that made a big difference. I am like you, there is a particular sound and feel I am after that you just know is right when it hits it (The bacon frying). On this welder there are digital presets for different thicknesses of metal and they ARE NOT right. I have found that most of the time I am adding at least a 1/2 volt or decreasing the wire speed by 10 to 15 inches a minute and I am typically adjusting the inductance to get the pool to layout better. SO..... to me this welder as a digital inverter unit has the right internals to do a good job but the presets aren't very useful (other than giving you a starting point). Sure appreciate you watching our channel and MORE TO COME!
I bought a car and had to do some modifications to it for a big boy. Glad to have found your channel. Through watching your videos I see many shortcomings in my cage construction and or room for improvement. I am thinking that starting over with a fresh cage build is the best way to go. Would you recommend using a new frame or just cutting off what I have, it is a metric? Thanks for what you do.
Having a frame already in race condition is a huge step. I would always want to use that over starting over IF it was still straight and flat. Once you cut the old tubes off you have to figure out how to lock it down flat, straight, and true. Big heavy jigs are great but you can do the same thing by just bolting some scabs to the floor to weld supports to that you would fixture the frame on. I appreciate you watching and hope all goes well in whatever you decide.
Do you have a website or something similar mate could do with a bit of advice on front geometry we are racing an e class Merc at the moment and all the pivot points are in strange places just wanted to send you some pics see what you think any help would be welcome and we turn right
I like the digital setup and memory because it lets me set up a couple different saved settings for different thickness metals I work with and as a mig welder its fine but I am not satisfied with its TIG ability. Don't be fooled by how its AC/DC because it has no TIG AC ability and that means you can't TIG aluminum. So overall if I had to do it over I think I would look hard at something affordable like the Everlast MIG unit. I would probably be happier to have spent the same money but gotten a unit thats just a dedicated MIG. At some point I'm going to pony up the money for a dedicated TIG because I have fab work where really thats what I would rather use because of working with delicate parts, aluminum, or stainless.
I love the engineering, fabrication, problem solving, and teaching part of racing but my goal really is to help encourage folks to get back in the shop and go back to crafting their own race cars, not making money. I feel like if I did it for a living I would end up having to charge easily 8k for a chassis just to come out on labor and materials and thats JUST the bare chassis not a roller. So for me the best way to support our sport is promoting the DIY to help keep it affordable.
It is awesome that you share your knowledge but there is a lot of people that would not trust their skill level to build their own or simply don't have the time would pay you to do their build. You level of skill is obvious and I doubt anybody would build a better car at any price.
Great question R.N. Yes I am using HERW and Yes I am using DOM. I talk about this more in some of the videos on the cage. I am using the DOM for what I consider the critical tubes at key points where it counts so for example all the main cage, halo, and pillars are DOM but then many others attached to those or on the front or rear attached to the cage are HERW. For me its a good compromise to meet my safety concerns while controlling costs.
Oh if some how you see this I have a very important safety quistion about location of the shoulder strap place ment..my friend did a forward flip in his gokart while racing .the front bumper dug in to the ground and flipped over landing flat on all four tires..when he landed he broke his lower back..I know ther is no suspension in the karts..I'm curious if his seat belts may have been to low on the back of his shoulders and pulled him down when his body when forwards and the belts tightened forcing him down and helping break his lowere back..he is better now and back to wark..also his name is Johnny meskill and he had been flaging in norther California for almost 30 years..I'm told he may have been one of the first to introduce the American flag with the checkerd..thanks. I hope some one has an opinion on this
That sounds like a terrible freak accident for a gocart wreck and I hope he has a full recovery. I would not want to comment on belting in carts, it's very different from how belts work in a stock car.
I appreciate what you’re doing. It’s about time dirt stock cars got some attention! I raced for 4 years way back in the 80’s and learned a lot but I never stopped wanting to learn how to make a car go fast and turn left. Only wish I knew then what I know now. You have a practical approach and it’s nice to have each step explained well. Keep the videos coming. I look forward to each new one.
Thank you Dale.
Great job on this video and the other's your explanation of what your doing and why your doing really is beneficial to me and other's wanting to build my own car so I'm confident in its safty
That’s a great idea mounting seat mounts first
Hanging in a car head down working is a miserable deal! On this build I am going to try and figure out the right order to get the most access at each step.
Man I’m exited for You.
The foundation is solid. I know those door bars will take a lot of time to get sorted.
I absolutely love Your meticulous nature and attention to details.
You are building in very well thought out safety and adjustability into this chassis.
I also like the longer format.
It was necessary for this step of this build.
As always, can’t wait for the next installment in this build series.
Working on those door bars now. Finally feel like i am getting some momentum going on this build.
I can’t wait to see Your progress
Thanks for your time and teaching..this is part of racing helping others .and the attention to safety is very much apriciated..now I'm hopping to get that kind of safety in a outlaw clone gokart..I Raced a ministock datson 510 years ago it was loads of fun..again thanks for your patiants..now I just hope I can get my welding safe
My mom had a 510 when I was a kid! Them was some dang tough cars!
SEATS. They have come a long, long way. From old Ford van seats, fiberglass seats, to today's full containment seats. I raced a guys car back in the day that had a seat made from a small barrel. Had molding around the edges....just crazy. Today's racers are so much safer than ever. Couple times I wish I had one. Another awesome video Jason.
I've seen a few of those old fiberglass race seats. . . Crazy what people used to do and now we would be like "Not a chance in hades I'd climb in that"
Very nice work sir!! Love your videos!!!
Thanks!
Very solid build, this video just showcased all your time and effort making everything plum and square and using correct measurements, the ones who just use the eyeball measuring system, this is where they would start kicking themselves in the butt for not taking the time to do it right from the beginning. I also have to shout out that welder, that’s the best bacon frying sound I’ve heard, very dialed. Did I hear you say you are in the Tennessee area? I live in Candler, NC right outside Asheville and I’m looking to network in the circle track scene, if you know of any tracks, schedules, or where you race, I would greatly appreciate a lead on the local scene. As everyone else has mentioned, we appreciate you for taking the time to bring us along and share your knowledge, nowadays you have to pay for this kind of information.
Very appreciated for the feedback Travis,
First . . . . . I am on the complete other side of TN about 1 1/2 hours north of Memphis, so we are sure running different tracks. I am hoping to visit tracks over your way though like 411 and if we can, we are going to try and run at Cherokee in Gaffney, SC in May.
I'll be the first to say this Vulcan Omnipro is not a Miller but for $800 I have been very happily satisfied. I have made a few mods including moving to a better 15 foot lead that made a big difference. I am like you, there is a particular sound and feel I am after that you just know is right when it hits it (The bacon frying). On this welder there are digital presets for different thicknesses of metal and they ARE NOT right. I have found that most of the time I am adding at least a 1/2 volt or decreasing the wire speed by 10 to 15 inches a minute and I am typically adjusting the inductance to get the pool to layout better. SO..... to me this welder as a digital inverter unit has the right internals to do a good job but the presets aren't very useful (other than giving you a starting point).
Sure appreciate you watching our channel and MORE TO COME!
I've watched every episode! Need more!!!!! I totaled my vintage car Saturday. Time to build another.
Well I sure appreciate you watching but hate that you wiped a car out!
Get to building!
I thought you would have been at the dream at eldora speedway taking orders for chassis’s
Ha, I wish! Maybe one day ...
I bought a car and had to do some modifications to it for a big boy. Glad to have found your channel. Through watching your videos
I see many shortcomings in my cage construction and or room for improvement. I am thinking that starting over with a fresh cage build is the best way to go. Would you recommend using a new frame or just cutting off what I have, it is a metric? Thanks for what you do.
Having a frame already in race condition is a huge step. I would always want to use that over starting over IF it was still straight and flat. Once you cut the old tubes off you have to figure out how to lock it down flat, straight, and true. Big heavy jigs are great but you can do the same thing by just bolting some scabs to the floor to weld supports to that you would fixture the frame on.
I appreciate you watching and hope all goes well in whatever you decide.
@@DIRTRACELIFE Thank You for the quick response. And if I did not say it before thank you for what you are doing here.
Do you have a website or something similar mate could do with a bit of advice on front geometry we are racing an e class Merc at the moment and all the pivot points are in strange places just wanted to send you some pics see what you think any help would be welcome and we turn right
Sure David, I have my contact email on my website www.dirtracelife.com
How good is that Vulcan welder. I am in the market for a good welder just not trying to blow the budget
I like the digital setup and memory because it lets me set up a couple different saved settings for different thickness metals I work with and as a mig welder its fine but I am not satisfied with its TIG ability. Don't be fooled by how its AC/DC because it has no TIG AC ability and that means you can't TIG aluminum. So overall if I had to do it over I think I would look hard at something affordable like the Everlast MIG unit. I would probably be happier to have spent the same money but gotten a unit thats just a dedicated MIG.
At some point I'm going to pony up the money for a dedicated TIG because I have fab work where really thats what I would rather use because of working with delicate parts, aluminum, or stainless.
I don't know what you do for a living but you ought to be building race car for a living if you are not.
I love the engineering, fabrication, problem solving, and teaching part of racing but my goal really is to help encourage folks to get back in the shop and go back to crafting their own race cars, not making money. I feel like if I did it for a living I would end up having to charge easily 8k for a chassis just to come out on labor and materials and thats JUST the bare chassis not a roller. So for me the best way to support our sport is promoting the DIY to help keep it affordable.
It is awesome that you share your knowledge but there is a lot of people that would not trust their skill level to build their own or simply don't have the time would pay you to do their build. You level of skill is obvious and I doubt anybody would build a better car at any price.
Are you using ERW tubing for your cage? Doesn't look like DOM.
Great question R.N. Yes I am using HERW and Yes I am using DOM. I talk about this more in some of the videos on the cage. I am using the DOM for what I consider the critical tubes at key points where it counts so for example all the main cage, halo, and pillars are DOM but then many others attached to those or on the front or rear attached to the cage are HERW. For me its a good compromise to meet my safety concerns while controlling costs.
Oh if some how you see this I have a very important safety quistion about location of the shoulder strap place ment..my friend did a forward flip in his gokart while racing
.the front bumper dug in to the ground and flipped over landing flat on all four tires..when he landed he broke his lower back..I know ther is no suspension in the karts..I'm curious if his seat belts may have been to low on the back of his shoulders and pulled him down when his body when forwards and the belts tightened forcing him down and helping break his lowere back..he is better now and back to wark..also his name is Johnny meskill and he had been flaging in norther California for almost 30 years..I'm told he may have been one of the first to introduce the American flag with the checkerd..thanks. I hope some one has an opinion on this
That sounds like a terrible freak accident for a gocart wreck and I hope he has a full recovery. I would not want to comment on belting in carts, it's very different from how belts work in a stock car.