JVC GY-HM100U if I knew how to utilize Final Cut I could have trimmed it a bit. As is ti's just me rambling on. I have one on dismantling and reassembling but that really needs to be trimmed. Guess it's time for this old dog to learn a couple of new tricks. Tucker Thanks for looking Rich
I found your video interesting. I have overhaul the 8mm models, but never the 16mm.I would like to overhaul a couple of early models H-16's when I get the courage knowing special tools are needed. I have the original service manuals to guide me. Thanks for the video!
First, thanks. Second, suit yourself concerning 'final cut pro' or whatever else might be available but I'd be willing to take bets against how many complaints are posted to cut down the assembly/disassembly video you've got. If you think it might bother you, you could list time codes in the description. However, either way you do that or don't, I for one am chomping at the bit!
Hey Rich thanks for the video. really interesting. I wondered if you know whether it is easy to replace the bolt the connects the winding arm to the motor as i have one that has snapped!
that part is available and not too expensive, just have to remember it's a left hand thread.You have to loosen the nut and it comes off the wind handle Is the stub still in the motor?
Hi thanks for this fascinating video! I have a h16 on which the bolt hole where the winding lever screws in stripped. I'm in India and noone fixes these. Is it possible to repair by oneself? Is the bolt hole removable? Thanks!!
Hey Rich, great video. I'm currently tinkering with a Bolex H16 Rex4 that seems to have a 'dead motor' as you described. This is the most in-depth video about the inner workings of the camera that I've found so far and I'd love to teach myself how to fix it. Would you recommended any valuable resources in particular ?
I just learned by taking them apart. I have a video showing the process of dismantling the camera but it's not edited in any way. I may just upload it as is since I never seem to find the time to edit. Also have one showing how to tell if you've lost the loop without opening the door first.
Hi! Congratulations for the video and work! I've been working with 16mm cameras for a long time. Usually i've to make the repairs by myself, as, at least in Brazil, i can't find who works with these equipments, no more. I've already done a small service on a ffriend's Bolex, but had to disassembly only the front part. Now i've bought a non reflex 1951 model and it is "frozen". As if was kept many years stored with the spring on. I saw in your video that you removed the entire side of the camera (?). But i also saw other pictures and videos where it has been opened from the inside part (film room). I don't want to remove the leather from outside to look for screws, as it is in very good original state yet. Can i access the gears removing the film room on the non reflex model??? Thank you so much!!!!!!!
responded to your other comment, here I see you are working on a non reflex. If I remember correctly those have 5 screws holding the main plate to the body. Also the turret assembly has to slide off as the shutter stays with the main plate. There is nothing under the leatherette that would require you to peel it off. Good Luck
@@richjura8957 Hi!!! Thanx a lot for your answers!!! Yes, it has more screws holding the main board, than on the reflex model. I had already dismantled the lens tower from another non reflex before and I know to remove this part without problem. I took off all screws from the plate, bolts, pressure plate, internal sealing glue, etc. but something still holds the main board too strong on one side, where the film cutter is. I have to analyze better what can be... Well, this camera was totally stuck. I did something that I did NOT consider the right thing: I sprayed wd40 on the gears from the front, let it stop a while and I could have the gears unlocked. I was moving them gradually and everything is working. At least I know that nothing is broken! It still hangs a bit, but all the mechanisms are fine. Now I thought about removing excess wd40 with contact cleaner or benzine.... I'd like to know what do you recommend for this type of mechanism?
I think you might be better off leaving the WD40 in it. I can't think of what would keep it from separating especially down by the governor, tap it on the table all around as maybe a screw came loose internally and is caught somewhere. That maybe what locked the mechanism, if it were me I would get it apart to clean and lubricate it. Particularly because WD40 is not really a good lubricant.
@@richjura8957 I was just anxious to know if the spring or anything else could be broken. I already set it up and I ran a test film today. I just developed it and looks great! Later on I want to disassemble everything to make proper cleaning and lubrication. Thank you very much for your tips and great videos! It sure helped a lot !!!
Hello, thanks for the video. I'm just curious, I destroyed the retaining arm which holds the film in the spool, how could I possibly change this or repair? I think there must be some kind of spring which is destroyed now...Thank you.
When the students destroyed the spool retaining arm I just threaded the hole with a 10-32 tap and installed a 1/4" long 10-32 button head screw. in 30 years never had an issue. Grease your tap and that will capture the majority of chips created by the tap, Rich
Hi, very nice video. I’ve a question: my Bolex h16 have a problem with the meter counter of the film, he’s stuck. Don’t move while the motor is in function. Have you any idea of witch is the possible problem? Thank you
if you hold the plunger at the back of the camera down with your finger does the counter work? If so the door does not fit correctly. Other wise it has to come apart in order to determine which parts are malfunctioning. I have another video detailing how to disassemble it.
That is .. totally insanely intriguing🤯🧠
Thanks for looking
JVC GY-HM100U if I knew how to utilize Final Cut I could have trimmed it a bit. As is ti's just me rambling on. I have one on dismantling and reassembling but that really needs to be trimmed. Guess it's time for this old dog to learn a couple of new tricks.
Tucker Thanks for looking
Rich
Fascinating - thank you!
OK! Just got the answer from your another video!!!!! Very nice!!!! Thank you!!!
I see this is a digitally shot HD video. Very nice. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you
I found your video interesting. I have overhaul the 8mm models, but never the 16mm.I would like to overhaul a couple of early models H-16's when I get the courage knowing special tools are needed. I have the original service manuals to guide me. Thanks for the video!
GREAT!!!
First, thanks. Second, suit yourself concerning 'final cut pro' or whatever else might be available but I'd be willing to take bets against how many complaints are posted to cut down the assembly/disassembly video you've got. If you think it might bother you, you could list time codes in the description. However, either way you do that or don't, I for one am chomping at the bit!
Thanks
Hey Rich thanks for the video. really interesting.
I wondered if you know whether it is easy to replace the bolt the connects the winding arm to the motor as i have one that has snapped!
that part is available and not too expensive, just have to remember it's a left hand thread.You have to loosen the nut and it comes off the wind handle Is the stub still in the motor?
Hi thanks for this fascinating video! I have a h16 on which the bolt hole where the winding lever screws in stripped. I'm in India and noone fixes these. Is it possible to repair by oneself? Is the bolt hole removable? Thanks!!
Hey Rich, great video. I'm currently tinkering with a Bolex H16 Rex4 that seems to have a 'dead motor' as you described. This is the most in-depth video about the inner workings of the camera that I've found so far and I'd love to teach myself how to fix it. Would you recommended any valuable resources in particular ?
I just learned by taking them apart. I have a video showing the process of dismantling the camera but it's not edited in any way. I may just upload it as is since I never seem to find the time to edit. Also have one showing how to tell if you've lost the loop without opening the door first.
I'd love to see both of these videos. Hope you can find the time to upload soon!
Hi! Congratulations for the video and work! I've been working with 16mm cameras for a long time. Usually i've to make the repairs by myself, as, at least in Brazil, i can't find who works with these equipments, no more. I've already done a small service on a ffriend's Bolex, but had to disassembly only the front part. Now i've bought a non reflex 1951 model and it is "frozen". As if was kept many years stored with the spring on. I saw in your video that you removed the entire side of the camera (?). But i also saw other pictures and videos where it has been opened from the inside part (film room). I don't want to remove the leather from outside to look for screws, as it is in very good original state yet. Can i access the gears removing the film room on the non reflex model??? Thank you so much!!!!!!!
responded to your other comment, here I see you are working on a non reflex. If I remember correctly those have 5 screws holding the main plate to the body. Also the turret assembly has to slide off as the shutter stays with the main plate. There is nothing under the leatherette that would require you to peel it off. Good Luck
@@richjura8957 Hi!!! Thanx a lot for your answers!!!
Yes, it has more screws holding the main board, than on the reflex model. I had already dismantled the lens tower from another non reflex before and I know to remove this part without problem. I took off all screws from the plate, bolts, pressure plate, internal sealing glue, etc. but something still holds the main board too strong on one side, where the film cutter is. I have to analyze better what can be...
Well, this camera was totally stuck. I did something that I did NOT consider the right thing: I sprayed wd40 on the gears from the front, let it stop a while and I could have the gears unlocked. I was moving them gradually and everything is working. At least I know that nothing is broken! It still hangs a bit, but all the mechanisms are fine.
Now I thought about removing excess wd40 with contact cleaner or benzine.... I'd like to know what do you recommend for this type of mechanism?
I think you might be better off leaving the WD40 in it. I can't think of what would keep it from separating especially down by the governor, tap it on the table all around as maybe a screw came loose internally and is caught somewhere. That maybe what locked the mechanism, if it were me I would get it apart to clean and lubricate it. Particularly because WD40 is not really a good lubricant.
@@richjura8957 I was just anxious to know if the spring or anything else could be broken. I already set it up and I ran a test film today. I just developed it and looks great! Later on I want to disassemble everything to make proper cleaning and lubrication. Thank you very much for your tips and great videos! It sure helped a lot !!!
Hello, thanks for the video. I'm just curious, I destroyed the retaining arm which holds the film in the spool, how could I possibly change this or repair? I think there must be some kind of spring which is destroyed now...Thank you.
When the students destroyed the spool retaining arm I just threaded the hole with a 10-32 tap and installed a 1/4" long 10-32 button head screw. in 30 years never had an issue. Grease your tap and that will capture the majority of chips created by the tap,
Rich
Hi, very nice video. I’ve a question: my Bolex h16 have a problem with the meter counter of the film, he’s stuck. Don’t move while the motor is in function. Have you any idea of witch is the possible problem? Thank you
if you hold the plunger at the back of the camera down with your finger does the counter work? If so the door does not fit correctly. Other wise it has to come apart in order to determine which parts are malfunctioning. I have another video detailing how to disassemble it.
@@richjura8957 Thank You, but if i hold the plunger, the counter don't work. i think it's a internal problem
@@ilPisi26 It's most likely the screw that holds the dial to the spindle, sadly to get to it you have to pull the workings out of the body. Good Luck
Rich Jura ok, thank you very much. I’ll try soon and let you know.
man they’re built like a tank