Tom, I'm a great believer in....... "It's your car, you're building it and you can build it however you like!" And the critics will always find fault, no matter what height you build the head pod and tail! Personally I think that the lines are beautiful and historically correct. Let the haters, hate and the rest of us watch in awe!!
I’m enjoying your progress, Tom. Not that you need validation, but the “headrests” on sprint cars and midgets here in the States have always been shoulder height or below. I agree with your assessment of not wanting too much bulk at the rear. I will definitely stay tuned for more.
Tom you are absolutely correct about the period appearance of the tail. No cars of that time had a "headrest" that was as high as the drivers head. And it's yours so do what you like. Nice work so far!
Impressive work as usual, Tom. Standing back, lookiing and thinking... important steps. You want to place part A but you need to have part B in place to attach it to. However, you need part C in place to know where part B goes. The pain is that you need Part A in place to put part C where it should go. Yup... lots of tacking in place. Have fun! :)
A super interesting ep. with loads of progress - well done! And you are so right to keep the bodywork low; it matches the spirit and principle of the A7 special perfectly.👍
Love it, really coming together. Massive progress. Thanks for the explanation on the rear shaping, totally get it and it will look brill, especially with the seat a little lower. Can't wait to see more progress!
Coming along really nicely! Funnily enough I was just searching online for solid aluminium rivets for my Riley while watching this. They don't seem easy to find for reasonable cost here in NZ so far. Keep an eye on your pedal area to make sure you don't run out of room. A7s can get a bit tight there!
Interesting to watch a pro approach to this project. Noticeable is the batch production approach rather than piecemeal you usually see. The audio quality is a bit patchy, otherwise loving this series
a friend of mine told me that when he was racing Midgets back in the 40's and 50', there was no roll bar, be surpried at how low you can go in the car. I drove an Elva Formula Junior car, front engined, u-joint right under the nuts. have fun. do you watch other A7 channels? Bracketfactory?
Love it, Tom. What a great project. With regards to the dimple died reinforcements, how about using panel bond to attach them to the frame? Not very traditional, I know, but I've been using it recently in a land Rover restoration and I'm knocked out by how much strength and stiffness it adds. It would add a little weight, I guess, but it would be negligible, really.
Another excellent video Tom, really interesting seeing how you do your work. I was wondering when you make your wire form you made it from mild steel round bar then once you start making the actual framework you have to remove the wire form to make the actual frame from ally. Would it be feasible to make the wire form from a suitable size of ally round bar or small bore ally pipe then use that as it is to support the ally skin and then add any more required inner structure for strengthening to the inside of the ally wire form? I just feel that there's a fair bit of work gone into the wire form then it ends up being kinda in the way and eventually gets discarded, to me it's like a work of art! Love the t-shirt too so will get on with ordering one!
Hi Larry I see where you’re coming from but the wire form was alway intended to be a quick mock up process that I can experiment with shape and easily tack together it’s also not 100 accurate. I think making it out of Ali tube might work but the problem rises when you want to attach the body skin to it. With the angle I have it has a flat face to rivet too but if I have a round bar then this becomes more difficult
Tom, what sizing is the aluminium angle that your using? About to start on a similar project on my Singer build - keen to teach myself the art as I go!
It’s the same thickness as the original chassis, can’t remember if it’s 2 or 3 mm. Wasn’t hard to hammerform at all ,it’s very common process for one off parts
Compared to what I'd seen before surprised by the thickness, and inspired and reassured. Am also surprised and reassured the MDF was up to that as well. Great to see. @@Metal_shaper_tom
Another great video Tom and thrilled to be the 10K Giveaway winner 🎉. Any other way to contact you other than instagram? As I don’t have an account although my daughter does.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
You are truly a master,these videos are just brilliant. Well done 👍
Tom, I'm a great believer in....... "It's your car, you're building it and you can build it however you like!" And the critics will always find fault, no matter what height you build the head pod and tail! Personally I think that the lines are beautiful and historically correct. Let the haters, hate and the rest of us watch in awe!!
Thanks you 👍 much appreciated
I think you've got the proportions of the body design exactly right. Plus, as a bonus,
it gives you an incentive not to turn the car upside down!
You are certainly one very skilled chap Tom!😊
Most enjoyable Tom and looking forward to seeing the next episode 👍
Thank you . Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Fascinating to watch it grow and take shape.
Thank you 👍
I’m enjoying your progress, Tom. Not that you need validation, but the “headrests” on sprint cars and midgets here in the States have always been shoulder height or below. I agree with your assessment of not wanting too much bulk at the rear. I will definitely stay tuned for more.
Loving your work - looking forward to seeing how it turns out 👍
Thank you! Cheers Ian 👍
Thats great progress Tom. I'm looking forward to seeing it on the hill
I can’t wait either but It’s a long ways off
Tom you are absolutely correct about the period appearance of the tail. No cars of that time had a "headrest" that was as high as the drivers head. And it's yours so do what you like. Nice work so far!
Thanks you. Glad you get it 👍
Impressive work as usual, Tom.
Standing back, lookiing and thinking... important steps.
You want to place part A but you need to have part B in place to attach it to.
However, you need part C in place to know where part B goes.
The pain is that you need Part A in place to put part C where it should go.
Yup... lots of tacking in place.
Have fun! :)
You’ve hit the nail in the head! 👍
Yup... been there more than once. ;)
I found you via Shed Racing and Bryan at Oak Swamp. Binge watching this build now, what a great project..
Thank you 👍 hope you enjoy it 👨🏭
@@Metal_shaper_tom oh I am :)
great progress!!! form and function dude...stick with your plans, i always lean on the side of form ....😁
Very Cool, looking forward to seeing it come together.
Thanks 👍
A super interesting ep. with loads of progress - well done! And you are so right to keep the bodywork low; it matches the spirit and principle of the A7 special perfectly.👍
Thanks Tim 👍
Your an amazing Man with so many skills in metals wood and so many other materials a total engineer love your videos onwards and upwards .
Thank you David 👍
Brilliant Tom!
Thanks 👍
Tom. Good work very interesting. C.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Tom for sharing your knowledge, I'm really enjoying this build and the way you are being creative, can't wait for episode 5, thanks again
Thanks for watching! I’m hoping in ep5 the shape start coming together
Very interesting & enjoyable video thanks Tom.
Thank you Doug for your continued support. It’s really appreciated 👍
What a fascinating build - so much planning involved!
Yeah tons of planning and lots of guessing lol 😂
Love it, really coming together. Massive progress. Thanks for the explanation on the rear shaping, totally get it and it will look brill, especially with the seat a little lower. Can't wait to see more progress!
Thanks 👍
Beautiful presented!
Coming along really nicely! Funnily enough I was just searching online for solid aluminium rivets for my Riley while watching this. They don't seem easy to find for reasonable cost here in NZ so far. Keep an eye on your pedal area to make sure you don't run out of room. A7s can get a bit tight there!
I’ve just found some for a Bugatti bonnet I’m making and I think they were cheap too! I’ll be looking at the pedals next week 👍
Interesting to watch a pro approach to this project. Noticeable is the batch production approach rather than piecemeal you usually see. The audio quality is a bit patchy, otherwise loving this series
Thank you. I’ll look into the audio as it’s a new microphone
a friend of mine told me that when he was racing Midgets back in the 40's and 50', there was no roll bar, be surpried at how low you can go in the car. I drove an Elva Formula Junior car, front engined, u-joint right under the nuts. have fun. do you watch other A7 channels? Bracketfactory?
Hi Tom, Have you the details of grade of Aluminium angle? Tia Andy
No sorry , can’t remember what it was but I did order it from aluminium warehouse if that helps
Love it, Tom. What a great project. With regards to the dimple died reinforcements, how about using panel bond to attach them to the frame? Not very traditional, I know, but I've been using it recently in a land Rover restoration and I'm knocked out by how much strength and stiffness it adds. It would add a little weight, I guess, but it would be negligible, really.
Ive heard it’s really good stuff! But I personally want to go down the traditional route with the rivets
Another excellent video Tom, really interesting seeing how you do your work. I was wondering when you make your wire form you made it from mild steel round bar then once you start making the actual framework you have to remove the wire form to make the actual frame from ally. Would it be feasible to make the wire form from a suitable size of ally round bar or small bore ally pipe then use that as it is to support the ally skin and then add any more required inner structure for strengthening to the inside of the ally wire form? I just feel that there's a fair bit of work gone into the wire form then it ends up being kinda in the way and eventually gets discarded, to me it's like a work of art! Love the t-shirt too so will get on with ordering one!
Hi Larry I see where you’re coming from but the wire form was alway intended to be a quick mock up process that I can experiment with shape and easily tack together it’s also not 100 accurate. I think making it out of Ali tube might work but the problem rises when you want to attach the body skin to it. With the angle I have it has a flat face to rivet too but if I have a round bar then this becomes more difficult
Hi Tom, how thick was the metal you used to make frame rail sections, same as the seven chassis? J-P
Hi yes same thickness as the chassis. I think it’s 2mm off the top of my head
Tom, what sizing is the aluminium angle that your using? About to start on a similar project on my Singer build - keen to teach myself the art as I go!
I was surprised to see the chassis extention hammer formed. How thick is that steel? I really didn't think something like that was possible.
It’s the same thickness as the original chassis, can’t remember if it’s 2 or 3 mm. Wasn’t hard to hammerform at all ,it’s very common process for one off parts
Compared to what I'd seen before surprised by the thickness, and inspired and reassured. Am also surprised and reassured the MDF was up to that as well. Great to see.
@@Metal_shaper_tom
You tube told me this morning that there was a new episode. Imagine my disappointment when I realised the video is 5 days Old
Had you seen ep4 or were you hoping for ep5 . Wish I I could get them out that quick!
What is Austin seven about this!?
😂😂 just the chassis and log book thankfully!! Clues in the name .. SPECIAL
Another great video Tom and thrilled to be the 10K Giveaway winner 🎉. Any other way to contact you other than instagram? As I don’t have an account although my daughter does.
Congratulations 👏 👍 either messenger on instagram or email me on cheltenhamvintageandclassic@gmail.com