For those looking to use the links. There was once a time where we used the dreaded copy paste function. Paste the link in your search bar and you will be happy! Thanks for the tutorial my friend, I was looking for info on this for a while, and your video is by far the most helpful thing I’ve found! Whenever Bel blows up in the mainstream media, you will be right there in the frontlines 🥳
I normally would agree with you, however when you're on mobile you don't have the ability to copy and paste, as clicking on the box just minimizes it! Was upsetting when I went to a grainger store and couldnt look up what I needed lol
Love this video and going to plan my very first build based on this! I can't wait to get out on the field and start bopping people with this boffer sword lol
I hope it's alright to ask and point out something... I noticed the links you put in the description are not working. So it's made it hard to find anything. So I was wondering what brand was the workout mat, or does any foam mat work. Like those blue Ozark mats you could get at Walmart work?
@@timothywink4423 anything similar to what I’m using should work. Puzzle mat and stadium cushion is what I use for my stab tips. This video is missing the puzzle mat that goes under the softer stadium seat foam.
Awesome, I love that! The red build is almost identical just make sure to use the thicker 602 kitespar, and adjust weight. There is a link for that in the description.
Great, well done video. I have a little concern with using contact cement as if it were glue, wouldn't it be cheaper and more effective to use actual glue instead? Also personally on my weapons I use a cotton rope for the handle. That adds thickness and texture and doesn't get sticky and gluey like cloth tape
Contact cement is the "industry" standard and provides extremely strong, durable bonds that will survive the abuse of boffer fighting. It's been used for a long time and proven endlessly in the flied.
@@Frankmuddy I'm aware, my concern comes from not applying it correctly. The instructions say to apply to both pieces that are to be connected and to allow the contact cement to dry until tacky before applying the pieces together. So I'm concerned about the quality of the bond when ignoring that instruction.
@@donaldkender4235 Nothing much to do about that. It has to be used correctly. Aside from some 3M products made for adhering foam together, which are quite expensive, this is the best way to do it by far. The solution, then, is to strongly emphasize that folks need to follow the instructions correctly.
@@Frankmuddy I don't understand. Doesn't the video say to use the contact cement as a lube to slide the layer over easier? That would be skipping the tacky step. It's probably enough but surely the bond is weaker than when waiting for it to be tacky. Or else we would always just apply it wet.
Great video! I'm just concerned with having a penny at the top of the weapon. Most builds I've seen use a dense foam like the puzzle mat that you used to act as a barrier between the core and the stab tip.
That’s a good point and would help make the stab tip last a lot longer. I don’t think the penny itself is a problem as it still covers the edges, but an extra 1/2 in foam would be beneficial and I plan to adjust my builds going forward with this.
For those looking to use the links. There was once a time where we used the dreaded copy paste function. Paste the link in your search bar and you will be happy! Thanks for the tutorial my friend, I was looking for info on this for a while, and your video is by far the most helpful thing I’ve found! Whenever Bel blows up in the mainstream media, you will be right there in the frontlines 🥳
Thank you for the kind words and the copy and paste tutorial :)
I normally would agree with you, however when you're on mobile you don't have the ability to copy and paste, as clicking on the box just minimizes it! Was upsetting when I went to a grainger store and couldnt look up what I needed lol
This is awesome, well made. I am going to share this with the NYBL families!
Love this video and going to plan my very first build based on this!
I can't wait to get out on the field and start bopping people with this boffer sword lol
Thank you, I’m happy to hear it!
I hope it's alright to ask and point out something...
I noticed the links you put in the description are not working. So it's made it hard to find anything.
So I was wondering what brand was the workout mat, or does any foam mat work. Like those blue Ozark mats you could get at Walmart work?
@@timothywink4423 anything similar to what I’m using should work. Puzzle mat and stadium cushion is what I use for my stab tips. This video is missing the puzzle mat that goes under the softer stadium seat foam.
Might want to fix links in the description, some of them are just cut off
Can you make a 6ft Omni red build? Would love to see how you would tackle a red build. I've just made 2 sets of blues because of y'all
Awesome, I love that! The red build is almost identical just make sure to use the thicker 602 kitespar, and adjust weight. There is a link for that in the description.
Unfortunetly, your links seem to be broken in the description.
Great, well done video.
I have a little concern with using contact cement as if it were glue, wouldn't it be cheaper and more effective to use actual glue instead?
Also personally on my weapons I use a cotton rope for the handle. That adds thickness and texture and doesn't get sticky and gluey like cloth tape
Contact cement is the "industry" standard and provides extremely strong, durable bonds that will survive the abuse of boffer fighting. It's been used for a long time and proven endlessly in the flied.
@@Frankmuddy I'm aware, my concern comes from not applying it correctly. The instructions say to apply to both pieces that are to be connected and to allow the contact cement to dry until tacky before applying the pieces together.
So I'm concerned about the quality of the bond when ignoring that instruction.
@@donaldkender4235 Nothing much to do about that. It has to be used correctly. Aside from some 3M products made for adhering foam together, which are quite expensive, this is the best way to do it by far.
The solution, then, is to strongly emphasize that folks need to follow the instructions correctly.
@@Frankmuddy I don't understand. Doesn't the video say to use the contact cement as a lube to slide the layer over easier? That would be skipping the tacky step. It's probably enough but surely the bond is weaker than when waiting for it to be tacky. Or else we would always just apply it wet.
@@donaldkender4235 Ahh, my apologies, I misunderstood you. You are correct.
Try vertical strips of cloth tape to bulk the core up, time saver.
Thanks for the tip PJ. Much appreciated!
Great video! I'm just concerned with having a penny at the top of the weapon. Most builds I've seen use a dense foam like the puzzle mat that you used to act as a barrier between the core and the stab tip.
That’s a good point and would help make the stab tip last a lot longer. I don’t think the penny itself is a problem as it still covers the edges, but an extra 1/2 in foam would be beneficial and I plan to adjust my builds going forward with this.
very basic but awesome! video looks great
Thank you!
Do you know how to make a shield? Thanks for the tutorial
We are hoping to make a tutorial soon!
Thoughts on solid abs rods as weapon cores ?
I’ve never tried abs, just looked it up and could see it as a potential.
The link in the description for the insulation foam is for a half inch pipe or 7/8 tube is that correct for the .524 kitespar?
Yes 1/2 inch is the right size for a good fit on 524 and 602 kitespar.
I thought you had to apply dap to both things you're gluing together
That is correct. Good attention to detail.