Nice job!! You've still "got it". Us old guys come up with some nice ideas. If you use a linear actuator with a shorter stroke the hatch would open and close more quickly. A second switch could be mounted in the attic if you want to do so.
Hello, I absolutely still have it. If I was to do it again I would go for a shorter stroke actuator, as @Timmania said, I just used what I had. A second switch would be a great idea for when I want to escape the family :D
Getting ready to install a linear activator on our cellar trap door. Using a tape measure, I calculated that a mere 3" stroke would lift the door from flat to 90 degrees. Still studying it though as I don't want to buy the wrong activator.
You could also fit a NE555 Timer Circuit upstairs with Relay, using the same 12v supply, so that it would switch the 240v lighting on/off a few seconds after closing the hatch. Either way, you inspired me to be inventive!
The only problems that I can foresee by doing this is that you do not have immediate access to a switch while one is up in the loft, or access to a switch once the hatch has dropped, because it is on the other side of the wall, ... plus the fact that if someone opens the door, while the hatch is in motion, to the point that if it interferes with hatch while it is coming in the down/open mode, it could cause potential damage to either the door, or the hatch, ... either way, it is still a great concept, ... & I thoroughly enjoy tinkering myself, as I try to make my world easier for me to overcome my own handicaps, ...lol!
You are absolutely correct, I have often thought of putting a switch in the loft so i can close the hatch when I'm working. Just a few weeks ago my mother damaged the hatch by not closing the door when the hatch was descending...great observation. I have my eye on a fast and quite actuator but at £100 its a bit out of my price range.
"The only problems that I can foresee by doing this is that you do not have immediate access to a switch while one is up in the loft, or access to a switch once the hatch has dropped, because it is on the other side of the wall," You can alway wire it with a second DPDT switch upstairs. Or Don't swits wire nut it or solder (nothing permanent) and use any sort of quick disconnect. If you ever find yourself needing to open it from upstairs and you have to do is disconnect and reverse the wires. So it isn't a big deal. "plus the fact that if someone opens the door, while the hatch is in motion, to the point that if it interferes with hatch while it is coming in the down/open mode, it could cause potential damage to either the door, or the hatch," Yeah but that problem would be there whether you use this or did it manually. If you are really worried about it you can always use a smart bulb and a door window sensor to warn anyone trying to open the door. Hell you can even put a WiFi door lock and use that sensore to tell it to lock when the hatch starts to open.
It may sound noisy, but it is more of a problem of the camera microphone settings than in reality. Anyway, at least you hear it coming at you. Works well as a safety warning. When you hear the noise, don't stand under it....
I'm looking for a way to mechanically raise a section of our deck where a dormer use to sit over the exterior steps to the basement. For 10 years I've been lifting that heavy thing, but we're going to sell the house, and I'm sure the next family won't want to deal with the labor of that. This is the closest thing, although opposite and much lighter, that I've found that's even close to what I'm needing. Thanks.
Hello! Thanks for sharing! I'm wondering if, as the hatch is closed, you have to manually stop the actuator or if it stops automatically (and if it is configurable). Thank you very much!
These actuators use micro switches at the maximum and minimum extension to cut the power to the motor. To control the speed... either use a pot inline at the switch to vary the voltage... or a dedicated motor controller. For these two wire variants I've never had issues with simple potentiometer. To increase the speed, from that achieved by the maximum rated voltage (e.g. 12 or 24v)... then you have to modify the gearing. No too difficult as there's a fair bit of space in the housing, thick walls to mount spindles. Just be aware that you'll lose torque this way. 👍
@@hesperhurt "No too difficult as there's a fair bit of space in the housing, thick walls to mount spindles. Just be aware that you'll lose torque this way. 👍" What?! Those actuators barely have room for the gears they already have. That is a huge undertaking. And NO. Simple potentiometers have there place but controlling speed with them on these motors is just a bad idea. You get a lot of power loss and makes the motor work harder. Even a cheap PWM motor controller is way better and easy to wire.
Nice! In its simplicity, this is still expandable. A robust Micro-Switch in the Frame could control the light coming on or off. As also mentioned, there are further _Remote_ possibilities with this where you could either change or add a Wireless Module to allow control by Key-Fob. I'm currently replacing the threaded bar in a Scissor Lift, to motorise a platform that I use for Laser Etching. It isn't a necessity but its much nicer pressing one or 2 buttons than cranking a handle! Esp in 2020!!
@@firstfix1984 Even more so, now it's 2022! I subsequently made an Actuator operated window opener to feed my exhaust pipe from my laser etch/cut setup, with a remote keyfob to do the _Cranking!_ 😁
Well I wish I could tell you the formula that i used but the truth is that I kind of just got a long one, and that is why i had to put a limit switch... because its too long.
when installing an linear actuator to a window or door like that what are the tricks to install them? by that I mean do you fully extend the actuator if door open and fully retracted if door closed? your hatch opens 90 degs; if I need to open it only 45 degs how do I install it? What advices can you give me, please? Thanks!
I have 2 issues with this idea, at least from installing it in my loft. 1 is that the actuator would have to operate in very cold weather and 2, what happens if I need to get into the loft but the actuator is broken! Or a rat or raccoon chewed through an electrical cord up top? There would have to be some kind of emergency release at the bottom.
Same as any loft electrics in a cold/animal setting. Armour the cables and junction boxes. Low voltage band heaters on the motor housing. Connect it to a temperature sensor if needed.
It have to be 60 below for it to start affecting it. Besides running the wire in some aluminum flex conduit and boxes, you can always replace the pin in the actuator mounting bracket with a pull pin. The kind that have a little ball bearing at the end. Get a length of steel wire rope and run it to somewhere you can yank on it. Or make a hole next to the mount the size of one of those cable hole covers. The type that are on desks that cover the holes that are meant for cables. And that becomes an access port to pull the pin.
You absolutely need to build an enclosure that’s soundproofed with dead-matting and sound proofing glue between two layers of 5/8 drywall for that actuator! That must be 70+ decibels, in a hallway no less! Yikes
I needed the diode in order to reverse the polarity when the door touches the limit switch. I had to do this because the stroke of the actuator was too long. If you get the correct length actuator then you don't need the diode.
The mounting location of the actuator is critical, no discussion about that. Seems that the actuator did not reach the full retract position which could actually stress or break off the brackets. A faster actuator might have been a better choice.
How many times did you hit the top of the door you need to open/close when you lower/raise the loft hatch...? Why place the switch there and not in the hall way where you have better control of what is open and what is not before lowering the hatch.
If it is used home application, it is noisy from the video. Is it possible to find more quiet operation linear actuator manufacturer? I search the linear actuator manufacturer and find this one: www.powerjackmotion.com....
A switch is nice but not necessary. As long as you don't permanently connect the wire, like soldering them, then all you have to do is reverse the wires. Even if they unplug the power all you have to do is pull the pin at the actuator mount. Besides they'd have to roll up the ladder first.
Hey, nice project, could you shared the link for the actuator that you used. Also, I would like to know which ladder you have for your loft hatch. Thanks, :).
+Philippe Mercure Hello Im really glad that you enjoyed the video. I should really post the completed finish project. I go the linear actuator from Amazon www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014SJWTPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got the limite switch from ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262295539196?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And the diode also from ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1n4001-Silicon-Rectifier-Diodes-1A-50V-RoHS-1N4001-x100-x50-x25-x10-/121933535942? If i was to do it again i would go for a larger limit switch as i had a small incident where the latch didn't stop and it ripped the screws out of the wood. The ladder is over 15 years old which i got from Argos. Hope this helps.
I also suggest the emergency disconnect with the pull pin, too. Saves you from having to cut open the door. I would keep your switches, not using the momentary switches, but add a limit switch on the closing function. The LA has its own limit switches and it LOOKS like you installed it such that it is at its full extension when completely lowered. A limit switch when closing will let you press the "Close" side of the circuit without having to stand there while it closes.
I've been asked that a few times, friends and family inclusive, If i was really smart i would have used my high school trigonometry. Surely it cant be that difficult because I know the length of the actuator, the starting angle (when the hatch is closed) and the final angle (when the hatch is open). Next time :)
The length of actuator on a rotational application doesn't matter. It's all about the mounting of the brackets. I use a 100mm max extension actuator to open a 3' x 5' floor hatch on a shipping container. Around 120lb of steel lifted through 75degrees. 👍
@@tomrum42 Actually, max speed does depend on the stroke, but it is the leadscrew's pitch what mostly determines it. The slower the actuator the heavier the load it can carry. Some companies offer a variety of pitches so you can pick the one that best suits your needs.
@@julenlaskibar5409 The amount of time to fully open a shorter stoke actuator will be less because it does not have to push out the ram as far. IF the lead screw pitch is the same and the gear ratio of the gear box is the same, it takes less time to push out 12" than it does to push out 24".
Looks good except that if you don't stop via flipping switch to cut power, you'll rip it off the door due to the loft door being fully closed while not at the fully closed limit switch on actuator. I'd either add a arduino controller to be able to stop power at the actual closed loft door position( also being Ble to use it remotely this way)...or figure out some anti binding linkage, slip area up top towards closed. Great job and inspiring me for my project...adding a linear actuator to a giant exhaust wall with the intent of controller the exhaust flow remotely via wifi and remote desktop.
No power no loft access. I'm lucky to live in a part of the UK where I have never had a power cut for more than 15 minutes. The actuator is only 12v so in an emergency, a car battery will open the loft or half a dozen AA batteries.
@@firstfix1984 I want to do something similar in my own home. I am probably going to put a battery backup system in place to open the door when the main source goes out as a fail safe. I will also include a hidden cut out on both sides of the moving door to access what will be the hidden actuator allowing someone to pull out one of the pins if all else fails.
My suggestion to you is to NOT use that DPDT switch. Use two Momentary SPDT switches and 2 Relays. One SPDT downstairs and one upstairs. Not only can you control from both places but you can control the position. Only drawback is that is not just a one click operation, but you have to press and hold. Like in my video. Except for timers you use SPDT switches. ruclips.net/video/-HLkvI-oJ1A/видео.html Also wrap a pool noodle around it. Makes it quieter. Last if you have a good WiFi connection you could always use a 2CH or 4Ch relay smart switch. It have to be 60 below for it to start affecting it. Besides running the wire in some aluminum flex conduit and boxes, you can always replace the pin in the actuator mounting bracket with a pull pin. The kind that have a little ball bearing at the end. Get a length of steel wire rope and run it to somewhere you can yank on it. Or make a hole next to the mount the size of one of those cable hole covers. The type that are on desks that cover the holes that are meant for cables. And that becomes an access port to pull the pin.
@@firstfix1984 So if you buy a more expensive one from a company like Progressive - do you think those are gona be nicer, less nosier? An amazon one is maybe 40-50 bucks, theirs is 110 bucks - looks the same on the outsdie.
@@cubul32 Exactly correct, if you have the money Progressive is the next up. It will be quieter and quicker. If money is no object then you go Festo. But for a bit of fun, I will have to stick to the 40-50 bucks version :)
After you added your ten pounds of noise killing padding around that thing - did you realize that what you really needed was a gas strut - like in your mini-van? Silence is golden - at all hours but especially when children are asleep - and you can't get into the loft!
Nice job!! You've still "got it". Us old guys come up with some nice ideas. If you use a linear actuator with a shorter stroke the hatch would open and close more quickly. A second switch could be mounted in the attic if you want to do so.
Hello, I absolutely still have it. If I was to do it again I would go for a shorter stroke actuator, as @Timmania said, I just used what I had. A second switch would be a great idea for when I want to escape the family :D
Getting ready to install a linear activator on our cellar trap door. Using a tape measure, I calculated that a mere 3" stroke would lift the door from flat to 90 degrees. Still studying it though as I don't want to buy the wrong activator.
How is the cellar trap door coming along? @@GG1man
It is working well. Progressive was helpful on some of the details. @@firstfix1984
You could also fit a NE555 Timer Circuit upstairs with Relay, using the same 12v supply, so that it would switch the 240v lighting on/off a few seconds after closing the hatch.
Either way, you inspired me to be inventive!
OR..... Just get a Smart bulb and door sensor.
Using it as a door shut indicator for chicken coop.
ruclips.net/video/IvmlhlFYAEM/видео.html
Very well done. I like it.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you
I foresee many a new actuator replacements in ur future.
Hi evry good pleas iam from Saudi and am looking for. This pruduct where do you think i can find one
Thanks
excellent work thanks
Thank you Hamad Kuwait. I will update the video soon so show the completed project.
I love it!
The only problems that I can foresee by doing this is that you do not have immediate access to a switch while one is up in the loft, or access to a switch once the hatch has dropped, because it is on the other side of the wall, ... plus the fact that if someone opens the door, while the hatch is in motion, to the point that if it interferes with hatch while it is coming in the down/open mode, it could cause potential damage to either the door, or the hatch, ... either way, it is still a great concept, ... & I thoroughly enjoy tinkering myself, as I try to make my world easier for me to overcome my own handicaps, ...lol!
You are absolutely correct, I have often thought of putting a switch in the loft so i can close the hatch when I'm working. Just a few weeks ago my mother damaged the hatch by not closing the door when the hatch was descending...great observation.
I have my eye on a fast and quite actuator but at £100 its a bit out of my price range.
@@firstfix1984 You could use a limit switch on the door to kill (open) the circuit if the door is open.
"The only problems that I can foresee by doing this is that you do not have immediate access to a switch while one is up in the loft, or access to a switch once the hatch has dropped, because it is on the other side of the wall,"
You can alway wire it with a second DPDT switch upstairs. Or Don't swits wire nut it or solder (nothing permanent) and use any sort of quick disconnect. If you ever find yourself needing to open it from upstairs and you have to do is disconnect and reverse the wires. So it isn't a big deal.
"plus the fact that if someone opens the door, while the hatch is in motion, to the point that if it interferes with hatch while it is coming in the down/open mode, it could cause potential damage to either the door, or the hatch,"
Yeah but that problem would be there whether you use this or did it manually. If you are really worried about it you can always use a smart bulb and a door window sensor to warn anyone trying to open the door. Hell you can even put a WiFi door lock and use that sensore to tell it to lock when the hatch starts to open.
Greeks are everywhere (I am talking about the people talking on the background)! Nice project by the way :)
Thats my mother in law. No way will she stop talking just for me to do some recording :)
i totally understand ! nice project ! greetings from athens greece!
Can somebody help which size must I buy uplift 600w x4 solar panels
I can still hear it.
It may sound noisy, but it is more of a problem of the camera microphone settings than in reality. Anyway, at least you hear it coming at you. Works well as a safety warning. When you hear the noise, don't stand under it....
How many amps is your 12v power supply?
I'm looking for a way to mechanically raise a section of our deck where a dormer use to sit over the exterior steps to the basement. For 10 years I've been lifting that heavy thing, but we're going to sell the house, and I'm sure the next family won't want to deal with the labor of that. This is the closest thing, although opposite and much lighter, that I've found that's even close to what I'm needing. Thanks.
Best of luck. If you get good quality actuators you can put one on either side of the deck giving you more lifting power.
Better use 2 of them with position control.
it's a really good video, but what name of this Linear Actuator, can you give me the buy link so I can buy it 🥰🥰
Hello! Thanks for sharing! I'm wondering if, as the hatch is closed, you have to manually stop the actuator or if it stops automatically (and if it is configurable). Thank you very much!
These actuators use micro switches at the maximum and minimum extension to cut the power to the motor.
To control the speed... either use a pot inline at the switch to vary the voltage... or a dedicated motor controller. For these two wire variants I've never had issues with simple potentiometer.
To increase the speed, from that achieved by the maximum rated voltage (e.g. 12 or 24v)... then you have to modify the gearing. No too difficult as there's a fair bit of space in the housing, thick walls to mount spindles. Just be aware that you'll lose torque this way. 👍
Robert Venus has given you a way better reply than what I could.
@@hesperhurt "No too difficult as there's a fair bit of space in the housing, thick walls to mount spindles. Just be aware that you'll lose torque this way. 👍"
What?! Those actuators barely have room for the gears they already have. That is a huge undertaking.
And NO. Simple potentiometers have there place but controlling speed with them on these motors is just a bad idea. You get a lot of power loss and makes the motor work harder. Even a cheap PWM motor controller is way better and easy to wire.
looks like springs will be needed just so you dont burn out that actuator.?
Absolutely. Get some bungees to do the heavy lifting.
Where from did you buy the actuator? Any link?
Nice! In its simplicity, this is still expandable. A robust Micro-Switch in the Frame could control the light coming on or off.
As also mentioned, there are further _Remote_ possibilities with this where you could either change or add a Wireless Module to allow control by Key-Fob. I'm currently replacing the threaded bar in a Scissor Lift, to motorise a platform that I use for Laser Etching. It isn't a necessity but its much nicer pressing one or 2 buttons than cranking a handle! Esp in 2020!!
Who has time to be cranking a handle in 2020, absolutely the best line I've read.
@@firstfix1984 Even more so, now it's 2022!
I subsequently made an Actuator operated window opener to feed my exhaust pipe from my laser etch/cut setup, with a remote keyfob to do the _Cranking!_ 😁
@@jayc2469
OR..... Just get a Smart bulb and door sensor.
Using it as a door shut indicator for chicken coop.
ruclips.net/video/IvmlhlFYAEM/видео.html
Where did you get the actuator
What's the length and weight of the door?
Great project. How did you determine the length of the stroke for linear actuator?
Well I wish I could tell you the formula that i used but the truth is that I kind of just got a long one, and that is why i had to put a limit switch... because its too long.
It's not really dependent upon the length of the actuator... more the position and angle of the mounting brackets.
90 degrees is 90 degrees... over any length.
when installing an linear actuator to a window or door like that what are the tricks to install them? by that I mean do you fully extend the actuator if door open and fully retracted if door closed? your hatch opens 90 degs; if I need to open it only 45 degs how do I install it? What advices can you give me, please? Thanks!
If you open it using a smart switch you can open it to any angle you want, just 'program' it to stop after an x-amount of seconds.
I have 2 issues with this idea, at least from installing it in my loft. 1 is that the actuator would have to operate in very cold weather and 2, what happens if I need to get into the loft but the actuator is broken! Or a rat or raccoon chewed through an electrical cord up top?
There would have to be some kind of emergency release at the bottom.
Same as any loft electrics in a cold/animal setting.
Armour the cables and junction boxes. Low voltage band heaters on the motor housing. Connect it to a temperature sensor if needed.
It have to be 60 below for it to start affecting it.
Besides running the wire in some aluminum flex conduit and boxes, you can always replace the pin in the actuator mounting bracket with a pull pin. The kind that have a little ball bearing at the end. Get a length of steel wire rope and run it to somewhere you can yank on it. Or make a hole next to the mount the size of one of those cable hole covers. The type that are on desks that cover the holes that are meant for cables. And that becomes an access port to pull the pin.
You absolutely need to build an enclosure that’s soundproofed with dead-matting and sound proofing glue between two layers of 5/8 drywall for that actuator! That must be 70+ decibels, in a hallway no less! Yikes
Absolutely, if you think it's load in the video image it in real life.
Yeah just use a pool noodle. You can use 1" pipe insulation but the pool noodles are way cheaper. They do a great job.
Hi there what size is a linear actuator did you use for this project?
Years late...but looks like a 225lb 11-16" throw 12v 3a actuator. Or roughly that
nice idea..what size of this actuator and how big is this port ???
The actuator has a stroke of 60cm, way too long for my needs, I could have done with a 40cm one instead.
@@firstfix1984 thank you very much...thanks
Why did you reverse the mounting of the actuator?
Yes why?
If you had a small solar panel and a motorbike battery that would save a lot of wiring.
How?! You have to wire up the solar panel and wire the battery plus the wiring to the unit. Such a wonky idea.
Hi First Fix
What did you use the diode for ?
Is it really needed ?
Thank you !
I needed the diode in order to reverse the polarity when the door touches the limit switch. I had to do this because the stroke of the actuator was too long. If you get the correct length actuator then you don't need the diode.
The mounting location of the actuator is critical, no discussion about that. Seems that the actuator did not reach the full retract position which could actually stress or break off the brackets. A faster actuator might have been a better choice.
Fast has nothing to do with that. And what do you mean it didn't retract all the way? 6:37
what is the stroke length? Weight (Kg) pull strength? 12V/24V ? Please post such technical information with your post comments.
I don't get it why not telling specifications bcz it matters
How many times did you hit the top of the door you need to open/close when you lower/raise the loft hatch...? Why place the switch there and not in the hall way where you have better control of what is open and what is not before lowering the hatch.
Me duket se degjova te flitet pak shqip nga fundi i videos.. 😁
If it is used home application, it is noisy from the video. Is it possible to find more quiet operation linear actuator manufacturer? I search the linear actuator manufacturer and find this one: www.powerjackmotion.com....
Hi. What brand is it? and where can I get it? regards
It's the cheapest one on Amazon.
what is the speed
holly shit thats loud
There should be a switch on each floor. otherwise if someone wants to troll you from the 1st floor while you are upstairs, that would be fun.
That would be a nasty surprise for me.
A switch is nice but not necessary. As long as you don't permanently connect the wire, like soldering them, then all you have to do is reverse the wires. Even if they unplug the power all you have to do is pull the pin at the actuator mount. Besides they'd have to roll up the ladder first.
Well, you won't be able to sneak any dead bodies into that attic in the middle of the night, that's for sure.
Hey, nice project, could you shared the link for the actuator that you used. Also, I would like to know which ladder you have for your loft hatch. Thanks, :).
+Philippe Mercure
Hello Im really glad that you enjoyed the video. I should really post the completed finish project. I go the linear actuator from Amazon
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014SJWTPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got the limite switch from ebay
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262295539196?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And the diode also from ebay
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1n4001-Silicon-Rectifier-Diodes-1A-50V-RoHS-1N4001-x100-x50-x25-x10-/121933535942?
If i was to do it again i would go for a larger limit switch as i had a small incident where the latch didn't stop and it ripped the screws out of the wood.
The ladder is over 15 years old which i got from Argos.
Hope this helps.
Muito barulhento👂
I also suggest the emergency disconnect with the pull pin, too. Saves you from having to cut open the door.
I would keep your switches, not using the momentary switches, but add a limit switch on the closing function. The LA has its own limit switches and it LOOKS like you installed it such that it is at its full extension when completely lowered. A limit switch when closing will let you press the "Close" side of the circuit without having to stand there while it closes.
Cool, but super super loud.
Wallace and Grommet 😂
what is the max load it can take (in lbs)?
Maximum load is a lot, its 330lb. Its enough to rip 1 inch screws out of wood... trust me i know.
that's awesome. thank you :)
how did you determine what length actuator to use?
I've been asked that a few times, friends and family inclusive, If i was really smart i would have used my high school trigonometry. Surely it cant be that difficult because I know the length of the actuator, the starting angle (when the hatch is closed) and the final angle (when the hatch is open). Next time :)
The length of actuator on a rotational application doesn't matter. It's all about the mounting of the brackets.
I use a 100mm max extension actuator to open a 3' x 5' floor hatch on a shipping container. Around 120lb of steel lifted through 75degrees. 👍
hell you could use a 4" to 30". it's all about placement.
You trust the Chinese plastic gears?
all those chinese actuators i've teared down perform metal gears
Can you adjust the speed of the actuator?
Not really. You could play a bit with the voltage + / - 3 volts. Too low and the actuator looses power to high and it burn the motor.
If you use a linear actuator with a shorter stroke the hatch would open and close more quickly. Longer stroke will make it close more slowly.
@@tomrum42 Actually, max speed does depend on the stroke, but it is the leadscrew's pitch what mostly determines it. The slower the actuator the heavier the load it can carry.
Some companies offer a variety of pitches so you can pick the one that best suits your needs.
@@julenlaskibar5409 The amount of time to fully open a shorter stoke actuator will be less because it does not have to push out the ram as far. IF the lead screw pitch is the same and the gear ratio of the gear box is the same, it takes less time to push out 12" than it does to push out 24".
WHISPER QUIET
Looks good except that if you don't stop via flipping switch to cut power, you'll rip it off the door due to the loft door being fully closed while not at the fully closed limit switch on actuator. I'd either add a arduino controller to be able to stop power at the actual closed loft door position( also being Ble to use it remotely this way)...or figure out some anti binding linkage, slip area up top towards closed.
Great job and inspiring me for my project...adding a linear actuator to a giant exhaust wall with the intent of controller the exhaust flow remotely via wifi and remote desktop.
What are you talking about?
Pretty cool, but a gas piston would do the same thing and be silent.
You could have installed a wireless command and it would have been perfect ! 😉
But how ?
I did think of it but funds where a bit low :(
@@ishthetics Using a SONOFF 4ch Or MHCOZY 4CH smart switches. If you wanna take the long route you can do arduino with 2ch relay boards.
@@firstfix1984 20 t0 30 bucks would have got you there.
What happens when there is no power ?
No power no loft access. I'm lucky to live in a part of the UK where I have never had a power cut for more than 15 minutes. The actuator is only 12v so in an emergency, a car battery will open the loft or half a dozen AA batteries.
@@firstfix1984 I want to do something similar in my own home. I am probably going to put a battery backup system in place to open the door when the main source goes out as a fail safe. I will also include a hidden cut out on both sides of the moving door to access what will be the hidden actuator allowing someone to pull out one of the pins if all else fails.
@@francisdonsmg6819 Remember to film and share it. I'm always looking for ways to improve my designs.
كام سعر الجهاز
very noisy might scare the chickens
It scares more than the chickens.
My chickens are chicken.
How many Nm ???
It's a 1500N linear actuator. Way overkill for the application.
My suggestion to you is to NOT use that DPDT switch. Use two Momentary SPDT switches and 2 Relays. One SPDT downstairs and one upstairs. Not only can you control from both places but you can control the position. Only drawback is that is not just a one click operation, but you have to press and hold. Like in my video. Except for timers you use SPDT switches.
ruclips.net/video/-HLkvI-oJ1A/видео.html
Also wrap a pool noodle around it. Makes it quieter.
Last if you have a good WiFi connection you could always use a 2CH or 4Ch relay smart switch.
It have to be 60 below for it to start affecting it.
Besides running the wire in some aluminum flex conduit and boxes, you can always replace the pin in the actuator mounting bracket with a pull pin. The kind that have a little ball bearing at the end. Get a length of steel wire rope and run it to somewhere you can yank on it. Or make a hole next to the mount the size of one of those cable hole covers. The type that are on desks that cover the holes that are meant for cables. And that becomes an access port to pull the pin.
Where did you buy the actuator?
From Amazon, it was the cheapest one that's why it's so slow and noisy.
@@firstfix1984 So if you buy a more expensive one from a company like Progressive - do you think those are gona be nicer, less nosier? An amazon one is maybe 40-50 bucks, theirs is 110 bucks - looks the same on the outsdie.
@@cubul32 Exactly correct, if you have the money Progressive is the next up. It will be quieter and quicker. If money is no object then you go Festo. But for a bit of fun, I will have to stick to the 40-50 bucks version :)
That's cool but takes too long.
And what have you ever built..link to one of your videos please...yeah...thats what i thought
Christ that's loud
It is very loud. I need more funds to make it quieter and faster. But its a lot of fun, I don't know anybody that has such a cool loft hatch :)
what is the actual actuator you ve used
After you added your ten pounds of noise killing padding around that thing - did you realize that what you really needed was a gas strut - like in your mini-van? Silence is golden - at all hours but especially when children are asleep - and you can't get into the loft!
you don't need all that padding. all you need is one pool noodle . By the time you get that gas strut mounted ....
xD
noisy.