I did the same thing on mine with 2400 mAh cell. My cell was bigger so I had to remove the white 2P connector from the board and solder the wires directly. Later, I found out some components would "stump" the tester, causing the processor to freeze with the display on. I opened the case, removed and reconnected the battery. It worked fine, then was stumped again with the same component. So I added a sliding power switch recessed into the side of the case with the charging circuit. If the unit locks up, I can use my fingernail to disconnect and reconnect the battery, no disassembly needed. This has happened a few more times so I am glad I added a switch. The unit needs to go through calibration after turning the switch back on.
I'm in agreement with two of the other's here. That type of connector comes apart fairly easily. It may superficially look like it is locked, but it's not. Those "two white locking pins" do not move. The PCB mounted casing spreads apart a little when you insert or remove the plug.
780 people have seen you being defeated by a simple PCB connector, that would normally just need to be pulled out (it will resist a bit, because that's what it is supposed to do)... then you cut through both battery cables at the same time, making a really nice short circuit (hopefully the battery protector did its job) and _twice_ ... 😖Really???
NEW bATTERY PART Number Please !
I did the same thing on mine with 2400 mAh cell. My cell was bigger so I had to remove the white 2P connector from the board and solder the wires directly. Later, I found out some components would "stump" the tester, causing the processor to freeze with the display on. I opened the case, removed and reconnected the battery. It worked fine, then was stumped again with the same component. So I added a sliding power switch recessed into the side of the case with the charging circuit. If the unit locks up, I can use my fingernail to disconnect and reconnect the battery, no disassembly needed. This has happened a few more times so I am glad I added a switch. The unit needs to go through calibration after turning the switch back on.
Add a on/off switch to it. It has a standby circuit in it for the start button. it'll discharge the battery just by sitting there.
5:43 Lekker Joh .......Goed bezig Knippen maar !!!!!!
Sukkel
I'm in agreement with two of the other's here. That type of connector comes apart fairly easily. It may superficially look like it is locked, but it's not. Those "two white locking pins" do not move. The PCB mounted casing spreads apart a little when you insert or remove the plug.
Just pull that connector out! I know you can do it!! Now you know how Dr Frankenstein felt!!!
780 people have seen you being defeated by a simple PCB connector, that would normally just need to be pulled out (it will resist a bit, because that's what it is supposed to do)... then you cut through both battery cables at the same time, making a really nice short circuit (hopefully the battery protector did its job) and _twice_ ... 😖Really???
Good job, you should have used heat shrink instead of black tape. Otherwise, well done.
Add a power switch will help more than a bigger battery i guess.